I've been using ARTIST's PASTELS on my models for over FIFTY YEARS- NEVER been disappointed by the very same techniques as Jon has just described in this video. SO much better than all of THOSE MESSY, OVERDONE WASHES. The ONLY washes I EVER USE are "PIN WASHES"; ANYTHING ELSE is just a waste of time, money & effort... UP the PASTELS...👍👍👍
I have a pastel set similar to the one you’re using… I bought some makeup applicators at a specialty shop Brush on one end, sponge on the other, I think it was a ten pack… WHO said you couldn’t teach a OLD DOG new tricks… I have a sacrifice kit just to practice on… It has probably a dozen coats of paint on it… Guess I’ll add another one… I’ll keep watching 👀… THESE VIDEOS REALLY HELP, MAKES A PERSON A BETTER MODELER… Thanks for putting this together, CHRIS 🇺🇸
Excellent and simple explanation of a part of the process that can be easily overlooked….especially when one has been frustrated with the build. With patience and this step you can forgive a lot and an otherwise meh build becomes a centerpiece on the shelf. Thanks!
Right on! One thing I didn't cover is adding underlying structural detail to a kit with less engraved detail (like this kit). You can see that I subtly added detail missing from the front wing section with the pastels. I essentially drew the lines of rivets with the cropped paint brush and went over the lines with the eraser. It leaves a hint of the underlying structure without having to engrave it. Cheers!
@@jonsmodelkitreview4624 yes I did notice and its subtle but adds realism…Engraving can be problematic depending on the quality of the styrene, as I have unfortunately discovered.
You're welcome! It's great to puck up tips from others, but every modeler should come up with techniques that work for them. There are many ways to achieve great looking builds. Cheers!
Vaya vaya, muy buen video, aún es de esas técnicas que no he probado realizar, me faltaba éste de tipo de ayuda, un vídeo bien explicado, realmente me ha parecido un resultado excelente, lo probaré, cuando compre un set de pastel seco jajajajaja, sólo he usado pigmentos, lo mejor es que además de mostrar la técnica muestras que se puede hacer con materiales en casa, nada de comprar el pincel exclusivo para eso, solo recorta el pincel viejo, me parece de lo mejor, el uso del lápiz mecánico (acá le decimos portaminas, anda a saber porqué jajajaja) lo realizaba en mis comienzos allá por los 90's, era mi método de resaltar o corregir los paneles, se ahorra tiempo y permite pulcritud, ahora a esperar el siguiente vídeo, gracias por tu tiempo y saludos desde Chile
¡Gracias Francisco! Me alegra que hayas encontrado útil el vídeo. Recomiendo practicar con un kit más antiguo. Como precaución, la capa transparente puede oscurecer o disminuir el efecto, por lo que se recomiendan algunas pruebas.
I've always enjoyed the finish of your models - this is definitely the enhancement I have been waiting for. I've seen some over the top weathering builders that looks like they took a sand blaster to it. Depending upon the theater of operations aircraft for WW2 weathering varied, especially on OD. I haven't built too many Japanese aircraft because of the unusual schemes I might have missed it, but with pastels it seems like the coloration might wear off, plus I suspect you can't put a coat of varnish over it or putting decals on might effect it as well. Are those caveats to working with pastels? The great aspect of pastels is that your box of pastes last a life time no drying up in the jar. :-)
Those are great questions. You can go darker than the base color with pastels easily. If you apply a lighter color than the base color, the clear coat makes it disappear. I apply most of the weathering directly on the color coat and then seal the surface with a clear gloss coat in preparation for the decals. Once sealed, the pastels are like paint. I may add a few touch-ups after the final clear coat, but the model gets handled with care from that point on. Sometimes, I will seal the pastel weathering one section at a time so I don't disturb it while weathering the next section. Hope that helps. Cheers!
@@jonsmodelkitreview4624 Thanks it does indeed help a lot. . So many ways to " weather" models these days. In the " PCW " days - prewash commercial days, as an example, the details on figures like wrinkles in uniforms, you'd use two colors, then make a wash by heavy dilution of mostly black. In today's world, you just grab a bottle of wash. Sometimes it's fun to go old old school just to compare. I've purchased some products from VMS, to experiment with, life gets in the way of model time - one I'm anxious to try is their paint remover. In their videos they show it stripping paint without the need for sanding and solvents that doesn't etch your model. I have a large stash I could use for paint mules and strip off old schemes to try these new materials and techniques you share. Thanks again
Nice talkthrough, thanks! Especially liked the slightly darker panel, looked a bit like my van… Only problem, they chopped the beautiful pointed wingtips off the later Spits. Criminal!
You're welcome, Steve. Most marks of Spitfire were available with clipped wings and a supercharger optimized for low-level ops, or standard wingtips, and a supercharger optimized for higher altitudes. Some high altitude variants even had extended wingtips. There were so many variations of Spitfires!
Great video. I have used pastels for weathering a few times and it’s a very good technique, but I find that when I spray a flat coat over it 80% of it just disappears. Am I doing it wrong?
You can go darker than the base coat but not lighter. They are not good for applying fading but work best as shadows and staining. You also may not be working them into the color coat enough. The brush I use to apply is very closely cropped (1 mm bristles). Hopefully, that helps 🙂. Cheers
You are in the right. For me too nothing beats pencils and pastels (even oil painting for painter) to represent the nuances or wear of time passing and other traces of "soiling", because we have a better dosage and control of the work in progress, . Whether on a plane or not ... The use of paintings dedicated to modeling always seems to me unfit for this destination. Sorry for my English language, it comes from a translation tool ...
I agree. Unless you are representing a liquid flowing somewhat slowly across a surface, paint isn't the best tool to replicate the effect. Thanks, Marc, for the great comments. Cheers!
I've been using ARTIST's PASTELS on my models for over FIFTY YEARS- NEVER been disappointed by the very same techniques as Jon has just described in this video. SO much better than all of THOSE MESSY, OVERDONE WASHES. The ONLY washes I EVER USE are "PIN WASHES"; ANYTHING ELSE is just a waste of time, money & effort... UP the PASTELS...👍👍👍
Right on! Once I tried the pastels, I never looked back. Cheers!
I have a pastel set similar to the one you’re using…
I bought some makeup applicators at a specialty shop
Brush on one end, sponge on the other, I think it was a ten pack…
WHO said you couldn’t teach a OLD DOG new tricks…
I have a sacrifice kit just to practice on…
It has probably a dozen coats of paint on it…
Guess I’ll add another one…
I’ll keep watching 👀…
THESE VIDEOS REALLY HELP, MAKES A PERSON A BETTER MODELER…
Thanks for putting this together, CHRIS 🇺🇸
You're welcome Chris! It's a great idea to have a test kit like you do to practice new techniques. Cheers!
Excellent and simple explanation of a part of the process that can be easily overlooked….especially when one has been frustrated with the build. With patience and this step you can forgive a lot and an otherwise meh build becomes a centerpiece on the shelf. Thanks!
Right on! One thing I didn't cover is adding underlying structural detail to a kit with less engraved detail (like this kit). You can see that I subtly added detail missing from the front wing section with the pastels. I essentially drew the lines of rivets with the cropped paint brush and went over the lines with the eraser. It leaves a hint of the underlying structure without having to engrave it. Cheers!
@@jonsmodelkitreview4624 yes I did notice and its subtle but adds realism…Engraving can be problematic depending on the quality of the styrene, as I have unfortunately discovered.
@@SCSuperheavy114 For sure!
Good stuff Jon, thanks! I have used mech pencil and even very fine point pens occaisonally to enhance panel lines. LoL
You're welcome! It's great to puck up tips from others, but every modeler should come up with techniques that work for them. There are many ways to achieve great looking builds. Cheers!
Vaya vaya, muy buen video, aún es de esas técnicas que no he probado realizar, me faltaba éste de tipo de ayuda, un vídeo bien explicado, realmente me ha parecido un resultado excelente, lo probaré, cuando compre un set de pastel seco jajajajaja, sólo he usado pigmentos, lo mejor es que además de mostrar la técnica muestras que se puede hacer con materiales en casa, nada de comprar el pincel exclusivo para eso, solo recorta el pincel viejo, me parece de lo mejor, el uso del lápiz mecánico (acá le decimos portaminas, anda a saber porqué jajajaja) lo realizaba en mis comienzos allá por los 90's, era mi método de resaltar o corregir los paneles, se ahorra tiempo y permite pulcritud, ahora a esperar el siguiente vídeo, gracias por tu tiempo y saludos desde Chile
¡Gracias Francisco! Me alegra que hayas encontrado útil el vídeo. Recomiendo practicar con un kit más antiguo. Como precaución, la capa transparente puede oscurecer o disminuir el efecto, por lo que se recomiendan algunas pruebas.
Well, great tecniques.
Thanks, Jose!
I've always enjoyed the finish of your models - this is definitely the enhancement I have been waiting for. I've seen some over the top weathering builders that looks like they took a sand blaster to it. Depending upon the theater of operations aircraft for WW2 weathering varied, especially on OD. I haven't built too many Japanese aircraft because of the unusual schemes I might have missed it, but with pastels it seems like the coloration might wear off, plus I suspect you can't put a coat of varnish over it or putting decals on might effect it as well. Are those caveats to working with pastels? The great aspect of pastels is that your box of pastes last a life time no drying up in the jar. :-)
Those are great questions. You can go darker than the base color with pastels easily. If you apply a lighter color than the base color, the clear coat makes it disappear. I apply most of the weathering directly on the color coat and then seal the surface with a clear gloss coat in preparation for the decals. Once sealed, the pastels are like paint. I may add a few touch-ups after the final clear coat, but the model gets handled with care from that point on. Sometimes, I will seal the pastel weathering one section at a time so I don't disturb it while weathering the next section. Hope that helps. Cheers!
@@jonsmodelkitreview4624 Thanks it does indeed help a lot. . So many ways to
" weather" models these days. In the " PCW " days - prewash commercial days, as an example, the details on figures like wrinkles in uniforms, you'd use two colors, then make a wash by heavy dilution of mostly black. In today's world, you just grab a bottle of wash. Sometimes it's fun to go old old school just to compare. I've purchased some products from VMS, to experiment with, life gets in the way of model time - one I'm anxious to try is their paint remover. In their videos they show it stripping paint without the need for sanding and solvents that doesn't etch your model. I have a large stash I could use for paint mules and strip off old schemes to try these new materials and techniques you share. Thanks again
@@c123bthunderpig Awesome, that sounds like a plan!
Nice talkthrough, thanks! Especially liked the slightly darker panel, looked a bit like my van…
Only problem, they chopped the beautiful pointed wingtips off the later Spits. Criminal!
You're welcome, Steve. Most marks of Spitfire were available with clipped wings and a supercharger optimized for low-level ops, or standard wingtips, and a supercharger optimized for higher altitudes. Some high altitude variants even had extended wingtips. There were so many variations of Spitfires!
Great video. I have used pastels for weathering a few times and it’s a very good technique, but I find that when I spray a flat coat over it 80% of it just disappears. Am I doing it wrong?
You can go darker than the base coat but not lighter. They are not good for applying fading but work best as shadows and staining. You also may not be working them into the color coat enough. The brush I use to apply is very closely cropped (1 mm bristles). Hopefully, that helps 🙂. Cheers
@@jonsmodelkitreview4624 excellent, thanks for the response 👍🏻
@@BlackAndBluez You're welcome!
You are in the right. For me too nothing beats pencils and pastels (even oil painting for painter) to represent the nuances or wear of time passing and other traces of "soiling", because we have a better dosage and control of the work in progress, . Whether on a plane or not ... The use of paintings dedicated to modeling always seems to me unfit for this destination. Sorry for my English language, it comes from a translation tool ...
I agree. Unless you are representing a liquid flowing somewhat slowly across a surface, paint isn't the best tool to replicate the effect. Thanks, Marc, for the great comments. Cheers!
Good advice but airfix plastique tends to have grainy texture that needs to be polished before using NMF!🤔
Jman
You are correct. This one was polished before paint. Cheers!