Thank you! Mine are only off less than 10% on most of them so I won't worry too much about that. The resistance measurements on the apu concern me on mine. Not sure if it's fried yet as I've got to test the battery properly first.
One thing missing from your Nintendo Switch Lite videos is an in-depth on the 29-pin connector. It'd be nice to get to know where those pins lead for a precise repair. For example, I got a Switch Lite which has an interesting fault, the left stick only moves vertically, not horizontally. So, instead of reworking the entire connector, I could focus on the pin that's used to listen to the left stick's horizontal input and see what's wrong with it. Anyway, keep up the great work.
@@fixmyappjim I'm sorry, I should've been more specific. I meant the 29-pin connector *from the daughterboard.* You did mention the pins from the main board connector, but you left out the pins from the daughterboard connector.
@@fixmyappjimcan you tell me what the capacitor value is for the capacitor above the lcd connector. It would be right below the D pad test point. One of mine fell off while removing the lcd connector and the metal end caps on it are non existent
Thanks for all your hard work - I think you're a tremendous resource for people who want to repair their own electronics!! I have an issue where everything work except the digitizer (works with known-functioning motherboard). The FPC connector 'appears' fine, but I'm going to check out the diode readings when I get home. If they are off, I take it I should be looking at the digitizer IC, correct?
Hi, you could test the ribbon cable test each pad with the other end there should be continuity. Also check if the you use the correct version of the digitizer. V1 and the V2 can cause this behaviour. Check which version your nintendo switch is using. Gr. Jim
@@niznoz8379 Hi sorry my mistake there are different versions for the normal switch, for the lite there all the same so if it still does not work would check fpc connector and surrounding components maybe there is a missing or faulty component in that area. Gr. Jim
Great video! Some of my diode readings are off. How many counts or % += would be acceptable before a cause of concern? Im using the USBC connector as my ground at all times.
Thank you for watching. It depends on the multimeter, temperature etc. I usually check if a components has a low or very high diode readings if it is more then 1V difference i would check that area. Gr. Jim
Hola amigo gracias por tu video. ¿ podria ayudarme con un problema que tengo con mi nintendo switch lite? El problema que tengo es que el ventilador se queda encendido cuando se apaga en su totalidad la consola y cuando se preciona el boton de power se apaga . Podria ser tan amable de decirme en que puntos debo de checar y los valores para dar con el problema?
Hola, el ventilador está controlado por la APU que envía una señal PWM al ventilador. Compruebe si puede ver el PWM en un osciloscopio. Si falta cuando la consola está encendida, el ventilador está funcionando a máxima velocidad, entonces el problema está en la APU o en los componentes cercanos al conector del ventilador. Éxito. Gramo. Jim
@@fixmyappjim hola y muchas gracias por responder, me imagine que el controlador fuera la Apu, revisaré los componentes sercano al conector del ventilador, solo que nose cuales componentes deba de revisar. Y exactamente se queda encendido al máximo al apagarse totalmente la lite y se apaga al presionar power y funciona muy bien en su totalidad
Hello sir, thank you so much for this information. Love all of the great videos you put out. Not to sound ungrateful because you’ve put a video for switch and switch lite diode readings but will you be doing one for OLED? If you do or don’t you still rock my friend. Thank you again!
@@fixmyappjimif you don’t mind me picking your brain for a minute? I have a switch OLED that is stuck at .46 amps charging and when turned on nothing happens but ram gets hot. Do you have any ideas as to the issue? Thanks for the videos, love to watch you troubleshooting.
Thank you for the time spent helping others ❤
Thank you for watching. Gr. Jim
awesome video as always keep the good videos coming thanks for sharing bro
Thank you again :) Gr. Jim
Thank you Great video 🎉
Thank you for watching. Gr. Jim
Great video, did a similar thing on a my working lite with photoshop ;)
Yeah did it also but is more work then making a video :) Gr. Jim
Great video
Thank you for watching. Gr. Jim
Thank you 🙏🏼 😊
ur welcome :) Gr. Jim
Thank you!
Mine are only off less than 10% on most of them so I won't worry too much about that. The resistance measurements on the apu concern me on mine.
Not sure if it's fried yet as I've got to test the battery properly first.
One thing missing from your Nintendo Switch Lite videos is an in-depth on the 29-pin connector. It'd be nice to get to know where those pins lead for a precise repair. For example, I got a Switch Lite which has an interesting fault, the left stick only moves vertically, not horizontally. So, instead of reworking the entire connector, I could focus on the pin that's used to listen to the left stick's horizontal input and see what's wrong with it.
Anyway, keep up the great work.
Hi i did made a video on it on my channel: th-cam.com/video/AO0ziOuf99U/w-d-xo.html Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjim I'm sorry, I should've been more specific. I meant the 29-pin connector *from the daughterboard.* You did mention the pins from the main board connector, but you left out the pins from the daughterboard connector.
@@Rodox2k10 Ok i get it, yes indeed i left this one out my focus was on the mainboard :) Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjimcan you tell me what the capacitor value is for the capacitor above the lcd connector. It would be right below the D pad test point. One of mine fell off while removing the lcd connector and the metal end caps on it are non existent
@@cameronimmel3448 Hi i do not not the value i get them from a donor mainboard. Gr. Jim
Hi, great video thanks. Is there a picture with the values measured?
Hi in this case no only the video was made. Gr. Jim
Thanks for all your hard work - I think you're a tremendous resource for people who want to repair their own electronics!! I have an issue where everything work except the digitizer (works with known-functioning motherboard). The FPC connector 'appears' fine, but I'm going to check out the diode readings when I get home. If they are off, I take it I should be looking at the digitizer IC, correct?
All the point had normal values :( Does that mean it's more likely a connector issue?
Hi, you could test the ribbon cable test each pad with the other end there should be continuity. Also check if the you use the correct version of the digitizer. V1 and the V2 can cause this behaviour. Check which version your nintendo switch is using. Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjim Are there different versions of digitizers for Lite?
@@niznoz8379 Hi sorry my mistake there are different versions for the normal switch, for the lite there all the same so if it still does not work would check fpc connector and surrounding components maybe there is a missing or faulty component in that area. Gr. Jim
Great video!
Some of my diode readings are off. How many counts or % += would be acceptable before a cause of concern? Im using the USBC connector as my ground at all times.
Thank you for watching. It depends on the multimeter, temperature etc. I usually check if a components has a low or very high diode readings if it is more then 1V difference i would check that area. Gr. Jim
TKS
Thank you for watching. Gr. Jim
Hola amigo gracias por tu video.
¿ podria ayudarme con un problema que tengo con mi nintendo switch lite? El problema que tengo es que el ventilador se queda encendido cuando se apaga en su totalidad la consola y cuando se preciona el boton de power se apaga . Podria ser tan amable de decirme en que puntos debo de checar y los valores para dar con el problema?
Hola, el ventilador está controlado por la APU que envía una señal PWM al ventilador. Compruebe si puede ver el PWM en un osciloscopio. Si falta cuando la consola está encendida, el ventilador está funcionando a máxima velocidad, entonces el problema está en la APU o en los componentes cercanos al conector del ventilador. Éxito. Gramo. Jim
@@fixmyappjim hola y muchas gracias por responder, me imagine que el controlador fuera la Apu, revisaré los componentes sercano al conector del ventilador, solo que nose cuales componentes deba de revisar.
Y exactamente se queda encendido al máximo al apagarse totalmente la lite y se apaga al presionar power y funciona muy bien en su totalidad
Hello sir, thank you so much for this information. Love all of the great videos you put out. Not to sound ungrateful because you’ve put a video for switch and switch lite diode readings but will you be doing one for OLED? If you do or don’t you still rock my friend. Thank you again!
@@ElectronicsMonkeyRepair Hi if i get a working OLED version then yes i will make the video. Thank you for watching. Gr. Jim
@@fixmyappjimif you don’t mind me picking your brain for a minute? I have a switch OLED that is stuck at .46 amps charging and when turned on nothing happens but ram gets hot. Do you have any ideas as to the issue? Thanks for the videos, love to watch you troubleshooting.