I've been using systems like this, Octonorm, MIS,GEM,and others like yours in the convention exhibit industry. My name is Bicycle Bob and I approved this message.
Just started using T-slot extrusion this is fantastic stuff for building framing, desk's, Benches etc . wish I would of learned of this product sooner !!
Good video. I have never used aluminium extrusion so your demo of what is possible is very useful. If your Acrobot is still too heavy you might consider aluminium angle and flat bar which is a lot lighter still, held together with rivets (a hand riveting tool and rivets are super cheap). Also wire cross-bracing is super light but very strong if needed.
I just wanted to add there are actually butterfly connectors for this purpose that distribute the force even better than just the bolt head. I totally agree that it's a great method (Although time-consuming to drill and tap) but Compared to traditional fasteners it's Considerably stronger and cheaper to put together. Again also more time-consuming. 8020 Actually sells a jig to drill the holes, Although you can use a self-centering downing jig.
You can buy 3 hole nuts and 2 hole nuts to make it easier to assemble. End fasteners are very strong as long as you don't hand tighten them. They make small wings that go around the extrusion and help it hold its position. 8020 calls them end fastener wings.
There is one other option, called Corner Cubes. They come in a 2D version for connecting two extrusions at a 90 degree angle, and a 3D version for connecting three extrusions. They are awesome. The only issue is: they are ridiculously expensive. You are looking at up to 4 or 5 Euros per piece. So not exactly budget friendly I’m afraid. But once you used them you won’t want anything else.
I use corner cubes nowadays, they are really useful as the good ones stop the extrusion from rotating and unscrewing itself. Worth the expense for my application!
@@DeputatKaktus It's Motedis - 1,88€ (without tax…) and two weeks waiting time for 30 B-Type. So actually, even without taxes you can't get a cube for less than 2€, because you have to add shipping, and add nine additional parts ;-). Still, it's way cheaper than 4€.
The connections also can twist since it only has one fixpoint. So depends on the application. Almost every Ender 3 style printer is assembled this way. All working fine since they don't bear much load .
Yes, I think it would be fabulous if they'd come with a tool that could be used to keep them from rotating. I'm not sure why they don't already exist as it's not a complicated tool. Just a wider part that runs the width of the inside channel, connected to a thinner one that is at a 90 degree angle to pivot up before being rotated out of the channel. It's definitely 3d printable as it doesn't really need much strength to simply prevent the nut from rotating.
It is definitely a good connection - even more so when you add special pates that prevent twisting. With double-wide profiles, you can do even better: Use one hole in the way presented here, and a headless screw for the other. This prevents not only twisting, but also sliding.
superbly implemented, not quite as relevant for a frame construction, but there would be a small metal plate (connector set) in between which makes the connection twist-proof as well
I do prefer item's Automatic-Fastening set. It's more flexible than having to drill a hole at an exact position and since you usually use two, the extrusion can't twist. But overall everything depends on what you want to build anyway.
Yeah, I never used those but they look practical. A bit more expensive, but probably often well worth it. And the twisting is an important detail yes, I am working on a new video where I mention this, coming out soon!
Very nice video, but if the aluminium rods are longer or the lever is larger, the screws may not hold. Additional brackets would have to be mounted here.
Hey there super cool video! Any ideas on how to connect them parallel? I want to make a lattice ish thi g and wanted to connect them parallel. Much appreciated
Unlike when using brackets, when using the convenient joining method shown in the video, it's crucial to cut the extrusion ends perfectly square. That is the number one obstacle to this method. If anyone has seen an economical method to achieve square cuts , please respond to this comment. Aluminum extrusion can easily be cut on a bandsaw, tablesaw or chopsaw, but getting it extremely perpendicular in two axes is a challenge!
I have most success with cutting them by hand with a mitre box, and then grinding them flat on a disk sander with guide rails if needed. But whenever I have the chance, I order them to size!
Actually - I just cut all my aluminum on table saw with a slide/sled - works great - I even use just a normal saw blade - carbide tip - think I had something like 80 tooth 10inch. Miter saw works great to - I just do not have one easily accessible - same deal with the blade. BTW, wear eye protection!!!
Daniel, I'm assuming you are threading (tapping) the end piece that the buttonhead fastener screws into? Yah kinda left that part out. Thanks for the greatly useful and to the point video.
Well spotted :). Although I have tapped these extrusions by hand before, these ones I ordered with the holes tapped, which is much worth it if you know your measurements in advance!
Hey! This video is very helpful! btw, did you use a 1 inch T-slot aluminum extrusion? If so, May I know what size of the cylinder head bolt are you using?
The company I work for sells Speed Locks, EVEN EASIER to use! No drilling involved. If you look up aluminum extrusion speed lock, you should be able to find a video I made or our websites :D
That seems fine giving it's a flat screen 2020 extrusion is much stronger than most major brands TV stands, Mounting points to the TV and extrusions do matter but I can't see why it can't be done
@@DanielSimu You make a hole in the extrusion as usual. When you screw the bolt in you also put a T-nut inside the extrusion A (from the outer side). So you have a bolt coming through Extrusion A and T-nut and then being screwed into extrusion B.
@@ВасилийФедорченко-л3к Thanks for trying to explain it further! I'm still a bit confused. Extrusion B is attached on it's end, with a tapped hole? In that case, what does it help to have a nut in A?
I'm making a small 20" x 20" x 36" box frame for a tig CNC pipe welding project. I should have researched this stuff better as I went with 1010 series. Big mistake. Should have chosen 2020. !0 series hardware is in some cases 2x the price for the same thing.
@@DanielSimu Having abandoned the "purest" mentality ages ago, it seems that many of the series 20 hardware parts can be used for 10 series stuff. The way I look at it, if my project is physically stressed to the point where the 20 hardware fails, I'm gonna have much bigger problems than just that. So yeah, it ain't going to the moon...
Where are you getting your extrusion from? I’m trying to find a good place for metric 2020 and 1515. Everything I’ve found here in US is imperial and 1” which is too big for what I want sometimes.
That's crazy. I'm in the US and the choices for 1010 (inch) are minimal and expensive, while the 2020 (metric) stuff eclipses the 1010 like 4 to 1 on Amazon.
yo daniel. Could you remove the music after the intro, so we can listen the most important part without noise? Cheers. P.S. Maybe I'm a small subset of serious *inventors* who watch your videos, but still, I'd personally prefer silence.
What kind of screws did you use? I am wondering because of contact korrosion. That would be the case when screwing stainless steel screws into aluminium tabs.
@@DanielSimu Wood, also you said cheapest! Just one aluminum extrusion pole 6ft long cost $30 plus a piece. If this was the cheapest we would make all furniture with it but we don’t. We use WOOD! Why, cause it’s still the CHEAPEST in all industries. Construction etc you name it.
@@DanielSimu I was in extrusion myself. I use to put the die’s in the machine etc. my grandfather on my mothers side owned a saw mill, so I have heard this argument till I’m blue in the face. Yet, what is the industry using? The industry will always go with the cheapest cause that’s how they make their money. If I remember correctly cause it’s been a while. It cost something like 0.30 a MM not an inch or a yard but a millimeter. You have to heat the metal up which takes a ton of energy which isn’t free. I can run a saw mill with multiple saws cheaper than I can run one extrusion press electricity wise. Tool and die isn’t cheap. It’s the whole reasoning behind 3D printing. 3D printers have come so far in the last decade that one day it will hurt the cnc and forging industry. They already have 3D printing FARMS like crypto mining farms. And yes, any business not ran right will fail. The only thing holding 3D printing back is when you print a metal part it doesn’t have the strength that a Forged metal part does. That will change in the next 20 years I promise ya! Look how mini cnc have hurt the industry some. Better yet look at it like this! My mother can use a phone. Yet, she can’t use todays phones. I have to put her contacts in for her etc. It was only 25-30 years ago that cell phones came out. So that’s why I say give 3D printing another 20-25 years and you will see a BIG change in the industries. We already are now with AI etc.
@@josephspruill1212 Thanks for your detailed answer. I of course meant that a single bolt is the cheapest way to join extrusion profiles, which is what the title refers to. As to whether wood is cheaper than aluminium, I'm sure you understand that that depends on the application. For some some projects with certain requirements, aluminium extrusion will be cheaper, and for other requirements, wood is. One can't compare these materials without also discussing their application.
@@DanielSimu that application is strength! That’s why I told ya about the 3D printing, etc! I mentioned the cons of it and how that will change in the future. Than, aluminum will be Cheaper. All you would have to do is print it. Cause I can used one screw or bolt or even glue which is no screws or bolts at all for wood! So it’s not that I don’t understand what your saying. Your not understanding me!
I've been using systems like this, Octonorm, MIS,GEM,and others like yours in the convention exhibit industry. My name is Bicycle Bob and I approved this message.
Just started using T-slot extrusion this is fantastic stuff for building framing, desk's, Benches etc . wish I would of learned of this product sooner !!
Good video. I have never used aluminium extrusion so your demo of what is possible is very useful. If your Acrobot is still too heavy you might consider aluminium angle and flat bar which is a lot lighter still, held together with rivets (a hand riveting tool and rivets are super cheap). Also wire cross-bracing is super light but very strong if needed.
Thanks, that's a really good suggestion, will definitely consider that for future projects!
I just wanted to add there are actually butterfly connectors for this purpose that distribute the force even better than just the bolt head. I totally agree that it's a great method (Although time-consuming to drill and tap) but Compared to traditional fasteners it's Considerably stronger and cheaper to put together. Again also more time-consuming. 8020 Actually sells a jig to drill the holes, Although you can use a self-centering downing jig.
You can buy 3 hole nuts and 2 hole nuts to make it easier to assemble.
End fasteners are very strong as long as you don't hand tighten them.
They make small wings that go around the extrusion and help it hold its position. 8020 calls them end fastener wings.
Daniel,
Good thinking, and creative ideas. Keep it up!
There is one other option, called Corner Cubes. They come in a 2D version for connecting two extrusions at a 90 degree angle, and a 3D version for connecting three extrusions. They are awesome. The only issue is: they are ridiculously expensive. You are looking at up to 4 or 5 Euros per piece. So not exactly budget friendly I’m afraid. But once you used them you won’t want anything else.
I use corner cubes nowadays, they are really useful as the good ones stop the extrusion from rotating and unscrewing itself. Worth the expense for my application!
You can get 2D cubes for less than 2€ from Germany 🎉😂
@@markusesslingerCare to share a link? Dold and Motedis are usually my go to suppliers for anything materials related.
@@DeputatKaktus It's Motedis - 1,88€ (without tax…) and two weeks waiting time for 30 B-Type.
So actually, even without taxes you can't get a cube for less than 2€, because you have to add shipping, and add nine additional parts ;-).
Still, it's way cheaper than 4€.
The connections also can twist since it only has one fixpoint. So depends on the application. Almost every Ender 3 style printer is assembled this way. All working fine since they don't bear much load .
Yes, I think it would be fabulous if they'd come with a tool that could be used to keep them from rotating. I'm not sure why they don't already exist as it's not a complicated tool. Just a wider part that runs the width of the inside channel, connected to a thinner one that is at a 90 degree angle to pivot up before being rotated out of the channel.
It's definitely 3d printable as it doesn't really need much strength to simply prevent the nut from rotating.
The connectors are ridiculously over priced.
Very good video ..thanks!
It is definitely a good connection - even more so when you add special pates that prevent twisting.
With double-wide profiles, you can do even better:
Use one hole in the way presented here, and a headless screw for the other. This prevents not only twisting, but also sliding.
superbly implemented, not quite as relevant for a frame construction, but there would be a small metal plate (connector set) in between which makes the connection twist-proof as well
Yes, those plates solve that problem! The manufacturer of my extrusion doesn't have one for 2020, but for 3030 and 4040 they seem great :)
thanks for the info man but I can't stop seeing Poppy from Trolls :D
Awesome man!
Thanks!
@@DanielSimu bro u look like a pineapple XD
For hanging applications such as window/door frames, a side plate connector would be better
I do prefer item's Automatic-Fastening set. It's more flexible than having to drill a hole at an exact position and since you usually use two, the extrusion can't twist. But overall everything depends on what you want to build anyway.
Yeah, I never used those but they look practical. A bit more expensive, but probably often well worth it.
And the twisting is an important detail yes, I am working on a new video where I mention this, coming out soon!
I tried it and over time they backout just enough to cause a problem.
I ended up printing the corner pieces with PET and then screwed
Very nice video, but if the aluminium rods are longer or the lever is larger, the screws may not hold. Additional brackets would have to be mounted here.
Hey there super cool video! Any ideas on how to connect them parallel? I want to make a lattice ish thi g and wanted to connect them parallel. Much appreciated
Unlike when using brackets, when using the convenient joining method shown in the video, it's crucial to cut the extrusion ends perfectly square. That is the number one obstacle to this method. If anyone has seen an economical method to achieve square cuts , please respond to this comment. Aluminum extrusion can easily be cut on a bandsaw, tablesaw or chopsaw, but getting it extremely perpendicular in two axes is a challenge!
I have most success with cutting them by hand with a mitre box, and then grinding them flat on a disk sander with guide rails if needed.
But whenever I have the chance, I order them to size!
Actually - I just cut all my aluminum on table saw with a slide/sled - works great - I even use just a normal saw blade - carbide tip - think I had something like 80 tooth 10inch. Miter saw works great to - I just do not have one easily accessible - same deal with the blade. BTW, wear eye protection!!!
Daniel, I'm assuming you are threading (tapping) the end piece that the buttonhead fastener screws into? Yah kinda left that part out. Thanks for the greatly useful and to the point video.
Well spotted :). Although I have tapped these extrusions by hand before, these ones I ordered with the holes tapped, which is much worth it if you know your measurements in advance!
@@DanielSimu Heheheh, no worries.... Thanks man !!
Hey! This video is very helpful! btw, did you use a 1 inch T-slot aluminum extrusion? If so, May I know what size of the cylinder head bolt are you using?
mine was 20mm, not 1 inch, sorry!
@@DanielSimu appreciate your response!
Bro, your hairdo is SICK AF, what do you call it?
Thanks! I call it mine :)
we called them... blind joints
Is there any software you recommend for planning constructions with aluminium extrusions?
I used fusion360, but couldn't find a workflow that was perfectly suited for this kind of thing..
Nice information pineapple head
What kind of screws are those? Are they self tapping or do you cut the threads first?
I order the extrusion tapped, but it's also easy to cut the threads yourself with a hand tap.
What kind of cylinder head screw and what is the ideal length?
The company I work for sells Speed Locks, EVEN EASIER to use! No drilling involved. If you look up aluminum extrusion speed lock, you should be able to find a video I made or our websites :D
Is 2020 extrusion suitable for a 48 Inch TV lift? The weight would be on linear actuators, but the bending due to weight woud be on 2040 extrusion
That seems fine giving it's a flat screen 2020 extrusion is much stronger than most major brands TV stands, Mounting points to the TV and extrusions do matter but I can't see why it can't be done
Why not using both a long screw and a T-Nut? It is a known combo for years
I'm not sure what you mean. What does the screw go through?
@@DanielSimu You make a hole in the extrusion as usual. When you screw the bolt in you also put a T-nut inside the extrusion A (from the outer side). So you have a bolt coming through Extrusion A and T-nut and then being screwed into extrusion B.
@@ВасилийФедорченко-л3к Thanks for trying to explain it further! I'm still a bit confused. Extrusion B is attached on it's end, with a tapped hole? In that case, what does it help to have a nut in A?
@@DanielSimu Correct. It makes the joint stronger.
Always load t nuts first and then slide the bracket into the channel
It is m5 or m6
Unique Islands
Lol. Literally bought a 3d printer for this exact problem
Was more impressed by the hair
I'm making a small 20" x 20" x 36" box frame for a tig CNC pipe welding project. I should have researched this stuff better as I went with 1010 series. Big mistake. Should have chosen 2020. !0 series hardware is in some cases 2x the price for the same thing.
I feel your pain! Good luck with your project
@@DanielSimu Having abandoned the "purest" mentality ages ago, it seems that many of the series 20 hardware parts can be used for 10 series stuff. The way I look at it, if my project is physically stressed to the point where the 20 hardware fails, I'm gonna have much bigger problems than just that. So yeah, it ain't going to the moon...
Where are you getting your extrusion from? I’m trying to find a good place for metric 2020 and 1515. Everything I’ve found here in US is imperial and 1” which is too big for what I want sometimes.
I'm based in Europe, so my suppliers are probably not very relevant to you, sorry :(
Maybe search for MakerBeam or Openbeam for very small profiles
That's crazy. I'm in the US and the choices for 1010 (inch) are minimal and expensive, while the 2020 (metric) stuff eclipses the 1010 like 4 to 1 on Amazon.
@@sempertard interesting where are you finding good metric other than Amazon of AliExpress
where did you buy that drill jig?
I 3d printed it, there are many to be found on thingiverse
yo daniel. Could you remove the music after the intro, so we can listen the most important part without noise?
Cheers.
P.S. Maybe I'm a small subset of serious *inventors* who watch your videos, but still, I'd personally prefer silence.
I'm working on new videos atm, will definitely make sure that the audio is better there, thanks for the feedback!
Relies on perfect cuts unless you are very careful.
This is true. I had these cut by the seller to my specifications, which was very affordable.
Hey. You have a tree on your head 😂
Schimmel Center
what are you using M5 screws right?
m6
Marks Causeway
What kind of screws did you use? I am wondering because of contact korrosion. That would be the case when screwing stainless steel screws into aluminium tabs.
It is zinc-plated steel. So far I've not had corrosion issues yet.
Okuneva Parkways
Griffin Course
Monique Trafficway
do you have a link to the button heads?
I get mine from Aluxprofile
the fact that final assembly is crooked 😅
West Keys
Pardon? The music is louder than your voice.
Vicky Mission
Cristal Dale
david degea😀
drill dancing cause press not fixed brah?!
You're dehydrated. Please drink more water.
Jackeline Knolls
Leannon Inlet
Did you win? 😂
Becker Run
Zora Walks
Gibson Valley
aluminium extrusion is overpriced crap unless ur mking a machine stand that needs it
Lillie Rapid
Hermiston Circle
Walker Highway
Emelia Passage
Domenic Loaf
Dereck Isle
Torp Route
Kian Rapids
Light? AND rigid??
Hummm.... Easy to disassemble, eh?
Are we talking about your w...
Botsford Fords
Clare Village
It’s not cheap
With only a single bolt per joint, I don't know of any cheaper method... Do you?
@@DanielSimu Wood, also you said cheapest! Just one aluminum extrusion pole 6ft long cost $30 plus a piece. If this was the cheapest we would make all furniture with it but we don’t. We use WOOD! Why, cause it’s still the CHEAPEST in all industries. Construction etc you name it.
@@DanielSimu I was in extrusion myself. I use to put the die’s in the machine etc. my grandfather on my mothers side owned a saw mill, so I have heard this argument till I’m blue in the face. Yet, what is the industry using? The industry will always go with the cheapest cause that’s how they make their money. If I remember correctly cause it’s been a while. It cost something like 0.30 a MM not an inch or a yard but a millimeter. You have to heat the metal up which takes a ton of energy which isn’t free. I can run a saw mill with multiple saws cheaper than I can run one extrusion press electricity wise. Tool and die isn’t cheap. It’s the whole reasoning behind 3D printing. 3D printers have come so far in the last decade that one day it will hurt the cnc and forging industry. They already have 3D printing FARMS like crypto mining farms. And yes, any business not ran right will fail. The only thing holding 3D printing back is when you print a metal part it doesn’t have the strength that a Forged metal part does. That will change in the next 20 years I promise ya! Look how mini cnc have hurt the industry some. Better yet look at it like this! My mother can use a phone. Yet, she can’t use todays phones. I have to put her contacts in for her etc. It was only 25-30 years ago that cell phones came out. So that’s why I say give 3D printing another 20-25 years and you will see a BIG change in the industries. We already are now with AI etc.
@@josephspruill1212 Thanks for your detailed answer. I of course meant that a single bolt is the cheapest way to join extrusion profiles, which is what the title refers to.
As to whether wood is cheaper than aluminium, I'm sure you understand that that depends on the application. For some some projects with certain requirements, aluminium extrusion will be cheaper, and for other requirements, wood is. One can't compare these materials without also discussing their application.
@@DanielSimu that application is strength! That’s why I told ya about the 3D printing, etc! I mentioned the cons of it and how that will change in the future. Than, aluminum will be Cheaper. All you would have to do is print it. Cause I can used one screw or bolt or even glue which is no screws or bolts at all for wood! So it’s not that I don’t understand what your saying. Your not understanding me!
I have to ask
Suzanne Somers...whats wrong with your head?
Moore Rest
Pat Drive
Crist Stream
Hilll Points
Pouros Viaduct
Aluminum only has one “I” so why do you pronounce it so odd?
Aluminum is North American pronunciation & spelling. In the rest of the English speaking world, aluminium is more common.
Lol two ways to say it. Just depends on which part or the world you are from. Been hearing people say both ways for decades.
In Australia (not Austria) we pronounce “Aluminium”……..
wtf just cut your hair
no u
Hartelijk bedankt voor de video, ik ben an beginen met bouwen een sprinter camper voor reizen door hele Amerika. Net terug uit NL. @dos-trotamundos
Leuk! Ben benieuwd hoe goed dit voor campers werkt :)