I’ve been watching your work for years and I’m still amazed at how you do things. I’ve learned so much from you and I would like to thank you very much . Your a huge credit to the craft .
I just LOVE seeing ALL musical instruments getting fixed PROPERLY - ESPECIALLY acoustic guitars and other popular stringed instruments - that sound good. I saw a demonstration of lyres they played in ancient Greece and those sound like STINK!!!! But somehow this guy thought it was cool. Anyway, this channel is a gold mine for me and my wife. We just love to see Jerry fix all these guitars and mandolins!! We have yet to see any banjos or fiddles or dobros (a type of guitar I believe) or anything else. I'm sure Jerry fixes (and MAKES) all kinds of musical instruments. And tools and many different kinds of things!!! I guess I'm addressing both the audience and you, Jerry. Thank you so much for sharing your work on TH-cam, and for being such a nice person!! May God bless you and your family with many good health and many years, and protect you from all manner of tragedies. Of course life always has some sorrows sometimes, but may they be as mild as possible.
In similar circumstances I have used acetone + 0000 steel wool to level the finish and then sparingly reapplied a finish coat. You Sir are a true treasure! The life time of "How To Do's" are absolutely wonderful. God bless you.
The way your work is done and the way it is described is a great school for us, your listeners.. I thank you from the bottom of my soul for what is done because when you love the work you do the result will be like yours. .I follow you with appreciation and deep respect because it has helped me in my work here in little Greece
Harmony in Chicago was pumping those out by the thousands in the 60's under many different brand names they didn't take much time assembling them (notice the slopped on glue everywhere)..but if you notice the woods they were using were priemum ...those same woods would cost a fortune today..the bridge and fretboard are Brazilian rosewood the top is old growth adirondak red spruce the back is one solid piece of Honduran mahogany..ladder braced big sound often called "the poor mans Martin" Fantastic instruments when the proper work is done to them...I have one and love it...
That missing bridge plate was staring me in the face all the time while you were doing the inspection before glueing the back on. What a suspense! Luckily I was “fooled”! I love watching these videos, much more entertaining than the ongoing European Soccer Championship that everybody here in the Netherlands is so excited about.
Hey jerry! As a live sound engineer with over 17 years in the business I can tell you that those wear marks on the sides and back is most likely from duct tape. The proper tape in the business would be gaffer tape. They look very similar and are often mistaken for each other or duct tape are many time used mistakingly as a temporary replacement when out of gaffer. But duct tape is tackier, leaves residues and are much more prone to tare of the finish when removed. I also believe from experience that the residues from the duct tape have a corroding or deteriorating effect on lacker and shellac. Just wanted to share my discoveries over the years.
True. I don't know the real difference between the two but duct tape residue seems to dissolve in alcohol and it might be alcohol based or something like that. The solvent evaporates from the duct tape leaving kind of a brittle layer of "glue". This is also why old rolls of duct tape left overs just unroll and produce dust from the glue that became brittle. Especially on shellac, tapes with alcohol based solvent will damage the finish since shellac is also alcohol based. Fixing this means that you need to scrape the part completely clean until all contamination is gone. With real shellac that could mean you have to sand down into the wood. What I do on furniture is to rub the piece with alcohol. If it feels like snot there is still tape residue on the part. Note that real shellac is alcohol based and it will dissolve in the alcohol too
I am a gaffer in the movie biz. Real gaff tape is a woven fabric. I have seen a car lifted with real gaff tape but it is hard to find. Go through the movie supply houses. Quixote, Cinelease, and a few others will sell you the real stuff. What Home Depot calls Gafffers tape is crap.Good luck!
I’ve just discovered your channel (thank you TH-cam algorithm!) and been fascinated by your work. I’ve ‘wasted’ a good few hours catching up with some of your videos and thoroughly enjoyed your superb work and your humour. I’ll watch a lot more! Yes, I’ve subscribed and hit the bell! 😃 Greetings from the UK 🇬🇧
You did a fantastic job on this repair. Most "professional Luthiers" would have had the customer invest another 8-12 hours labor to take the back off the traditional way and invest another 3-4 hours applying masking tape to the the fretboard and leveling, crowing and dressing the frets along with the many neck reset hours. Very nice sounding and functionally stable guitar now. The end result was excellent.
@Rosa String Works each of your episodes is a Luthier University Lesson. And a darn interesting one, as long as it might be long, I never miss a second of it. I semi-built electric guitars so far but I'd love to build a classic one or to be able to service mines one day. So, thank you Sir.
Me talking to you through the screen @ the 13 minute mark: "Don't forget the bridge plate!" Glad you caught it, lol. That new bridge plate seems to give that old "wreck" a lively sound.
You should've lightly stained that brace you added. I just couldn't live with that bright colored wood!! Oh I'm just being facetious. You did an AWESOME job - as usual.
A pretty awesome sound coming from an inexpensive guitar. Probably hasn't sounded that good in years, especially all braced up and a padauk bridge plate. Thanks for the content.
Jerry anyone who would make a negative comment to gentlemen who’s been doing this as long as you have, is just plain ole dumb and wants to criticize for the sake of criticizing. Your knowledge to me at least is unquestionable. Your videos are better than attending a Luthiers school and a whole heck of lot less expensive.
Your grandson gave you a new t-shirt slogan, Jerry. Youi could shorten it some with "Excuse me, I BUFFER often!!!" Now to the "Regal Reck." That is a humdinger of a guitar, in my estimation. I don't know where Regal places in the grand scheme of the hierarchy, but you definitely moved it up a serious number of notches. The sound and sustain are at least comparable to my Martin HD-28 and it is SUPER!!! Great job and two wonderful videos!!!
When I was at school, quite a long time ago, the school governors thought it a sensible idea to devote time each week to an hour's carpentry and an hour's metalwork to give a bit of balance to the students against a heavy academic load, and the school became endowed with two workshops that a medium-sized commercial outfit would have been proud to have owned. Two early-retired tradesmen were taken on to run the respective workshops. It is odd how one remember things, but every time I tighten a nut, there is, in the back of my head, the echo of my metalwork teacher saying, "Tight is tight, and no more." Likewise, my carpentry instructor exhorting me to only ever cut the 'waste' side of the line, and that if I ever used a measuring stick to cut a number of items to its length, then to use only one stick for that purpose, which was so clearly marked that it was unusable for any other. Who does not remember little quips about measuring twice, and suchlike, dropped within an offender's earshot ?
I have a block of wood 3/4" tall and 4 inches long, rounded on top and bottom. After loosening the strings, I slip this under the strings until it hits the bridge, then rotate it upright. This allows me to withdraw the saddle without too much effort. In addition, I use a 1/2" hardwood dowel about 4" long with a 1/2 grove in each end. This is my string spreader, if I only have to work on a couple of ornery frets, etc. Mylar is great as a shim for nuts and saddles, as it's tough, doesn't compress much, and comes in many increments of thickness from 5 mill upwards. I've found that you can use it to prop up a bridge that is a bit too narrow for the bridge slot, and is leaning forward, for instance. You put a strip of Mylar into the slot in front of the bridge. Cut it carefully, and it won't show. Jerry has been an inspiration to me for trying many approaches to various problems. He seems tp always find a way, no matter how difficult the issue. Thanks, Jerry!
I glad in a way somebody else has all the problems I get with various things. And of course the customer never sees anything and assumes it was an easy quick job ! Keep plodding on best you can.
That Regal headstock and logo are sick! - Sharp looking guitar! Nice salvage job, Jerry, sounds terrific. Bet the client's jaw will drop when he starts to play it.
Hi Jerry! Loved your two video Regal Wreck series. No, don't be so hard on yourself about your guitar playing. That song sounded pretty darn good to me.
My eyes kept on being drawn to the shadow where the pickguard had been on the body, so I was ridiculously happy when you fixed the original pickguard back on :-D
Once again I used your glue method Jerry. I made myself a guitar case, its no work of art, but its STRONG and functional. Thank you for your tips, hints and so many wonderful uploads, have a Blessed week end.
The finish you mention from the Harmony factory on the fretboard is commonplace and probably highlights a well worn machine that was used for the job over many years.
Jerry, what are you doing? Making a guitar solid and using glue not aproved by the youtube tone cork snifers :) thanks for taking us along for the ride.
15:33 Jerry, you hit the nail on the head with this comment... Everybody makes mistakes, it's how you get out of them that counts! If you have the skill and knowledge to fix things then the mistakes don't matter! Keep up the good work, Sir! You're an inspiration! I have the distinct impression that you've forgotten more about luthiery than I (& a whole lot of folks) will ever know!
That ended up being one of the finest sounding guitars I've heard on your channel! It has a real deep bass and a crisp, but not scratchy, treble. Great job, as always!
Jerry, stop worrying about explaining your process with, to be nice,(aholes ) who criticize your work. It’s your work, your process and your craft with your name and reputation. If they have issues, they should start their own channel!
Never really though about sawing off a back BUT I would have to agree with you once you think about it. The traditional method can cause uneven breaking and uneven spots which then have to be sanded which in affect may cause even more of a mismatch. By sawing, the kerf actually matches up on both sides. Thanks for your clever insight to this repair!
Sounding great, and looking Good......... Sawing off the back was the way to go .......I really enjoy the time spent with you .....Has to be a bit rough at times lol lol all these Buddies looking over your shoulder hee hee
Awesome work, and one of the better sounding guitars you've done. One of my favorite folk singers, Bob Gibson played a Regal 12 string and I've only heard a couple that sounded any better. Thanks!
Great job, per usual. I was wanting to see you use "Jerry's Flaming Varnish"🔥👌 perhaps another time. I'm thinking the finish on the sides was affected by a case. People tell me, I should put my guitars in their cases, but I usually don't, unless I'm moving them. The OLD Regal sounds, GREAT!
Neat job there Jerry! One more good thing about shellac is it penetrates the softer wood in a way similar to CA glue, thus hardening the surface. And it sticks to almost anything. Which comes handy sometimes.
Hi Jerry; At about 16:10 It looks like one of the vertical side braces between the two kerfs is missing. However; if it is, it's missing on both sides. It's just that there's a bare spot on the wood that makes it look like something was pulled off there. Great job on the top and back. Are you sure that's not two big hands and one small hand (3 hands). Some of those sound holes are rather small. I hate to tell you how many times I have gotten ahead of myself on a project and been forced to back up and punt. That guitar really looks a lot better and sounds great now. I really love to watch your videos. keep on truckin my friend.
Some people beleive that hard wood like rosewood for the bridge plate kill any guitar but it seemed that padauk not (at least to my ears) good job as usual Jerry
I like to think of glue joints like reinforced concrete. The glue is the cement. The wood is the aggregate/rebar. Any place where there is only cement(glue) there is no reinforcement. It will eventually crack. Idk if that's a good analogy or not but it makes sense in my brain.
Agreed, I'll never understand the history over cosmetic thing, wouldn't have taken much to sand those stains back and colourmatch some shellac, or filling those ribbed marks on the front, I'd rather a clean looking guitar than some stubborn romance towards wear, there's a world of difference between say the gouge of a lifetimes playing on Willies Trigger and general damage or poor keep (imo)
You cleaned the inside of back piece pretty good, but you could've sanded it a bit better because that's visible through the sound hole. I think it'll probably be okay, but it's slightly discolored where all that glue from previous work had been glommed all over the place. There is no original sticker, probably because of the mess from that original;"repair". You should make your own labels that say something about your company, and what you did, and when you did it. Hey! - Free advertising!! But when people look in the sound holes they should see sanded wood, and no glue. You did a great job, and that guitar sounds as good as a Martin.
Thanks as always, Jerry, for a great video (and for treating us to the song at the end!) I was wondering if the finish on this guitar was nitro or poly? Maybe a 70s Regal? Appreciate all you do!
we live in two different worlds, haven't heard that song in years! great work my friend! I hope you make it to 100k and the algorithm doesn't start hating you the way it has me! you'll probably be ok.
Thanks Randy.. Sorry about your channel. Kind of like that old Jerry Reed song, she got the gold mine and you got the shaft. Its hard to figure the YT thing. I can get more views but the monitiztion go down, then the $ might go up when the views are down. Just can't figure it out. Oh well. Good luck to you.
Interesting/informative to watch this. Jerry probably did more work on this guitar than the factory did. No X-brace/V-brace, no scalloping, poorly clamped/glued at the original factory. $500-1000 work on a guitar worth $100-400 on E-Bay. I can understand 'sentimental value', but a cheap catalogue guitar isn't a family heirloom Martin D-28. What was the customer thinking?
![[UNCUT] “อภิสิทธิ์” ครม.อุ๊งอิ๊ง แย่งเก้าอี้กันฝุ่นตลบ “ทักษิณ” บงการเอง Iคนดังนั่งเคลียร์I 21ส.ค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/a_b-kItw2jY/mqdefault.jpg)
Watching Jerry work is a treat. Hell's, bells l'd let him take my appendix out. I wish most surgeons were so acute. Thanks, Jerry!
I’ve been watching your work for years and I’m still amazed at how you do things. I’ve learned so much from you and I would like to thank you very much . Your a huge credit to the craft .
I just LOVE seeing ALL musical instruments getting fixed PROPERLY - ESPECIALLY acoustic guitars and other popular stringed instruments - that sound good. I saw a demonstration of lyres they played in ancient Greece and those sound like STINK!!!! But somehow this guy thought it was cool.
Anyway, this channel is a gold mine for me and my wife. We just love to see Jerry fix all these guitars and mandolins!! We have yet to see any banjos or fiddles or dobros (a type of guitar I believe) or anything else. I'm sure Jerry fixes (and MAKES) all kinds of musical instruments. And tools and many different kinds of things!!! I guess I'm addressing both the audience and you, Jerry.
Thank you so much for sharing your work on TH-cam, and for being such a nice person!! May God bless you and your family with many good health and many years, and protect you from all manner of tragedies. Of course life always has some sorrows sometimes, but may they be as mild as possible.
In similar circumstances I have used acetone + 0000 steel wool to level the finish and then sparingly reapplied a finish coat. You Sir are a true treasure! The life time of "How To Do's" are absolutely wonderful. God bless you.
The way your work is done and the way it is described is a great school for us, your listeners.. I thank you from the bottom of my soul for what is done because when you love the work you do the result will be like yours. .I follow you with appreciation and deep respect because it has helped me in my work here in little Greece
Harmony in Chicago was pumping those out by the thousands in the 60's under many different brand names they didn't take much time assembling them (notice the slopped on glue everywhere)..but if you notice the woods they were using were priemum ...those same woods would cost a fortune today..the bridge and fretboard are Brazilian rosewood the top is old growth adirondak red spruce the back is one solid piece of Honduran mahogany..ladder braced big sound often called "the poor mans Martin" Fantastic instruments when the proper work is done to them...I have one and love it...
You're exactly right.
"I'm only buffering" should be on t-shirts. As always, you have done an awesome job.
That missing bridge plate was staring me in the face all the time while you were doing the inspection before glueing the back on. What a suspense! Luckily I was “fooled”!
I love watching these videos, much more entertaining than the ongoing European Soccer Championship that everybody here in the Netherlands is so excited about.
Jerry good good evening my friendgood video as usual this project is coming along just fine stay safe God bless
You are the most valuable guitar doctor Mr.Rosa and thank you kindly for all your videos..Greetings from Greece.
I have 2 words for ya...out standing!
Hey jerry! As a live sound engineer with over 17 years in the business I can tell you that those wear marks on the sides and back is most likely from duct tape. The proper tape in the business would be gaffer tape. They look very similar and are often mistaken for each other or duct tape are many time used mistakingly as a temporary replacement when out of gaffer. But duct tape is tackier, leaves residues and are much more prone to tare of the finish when removed. I also believe from experience that the residues from the duct tape have a corroding or deteriorating effect on lacker and shellac.
Just wanted to share my discoveries over the years.
True. I don't know the real difference between the two but duct tape residue seems to dissolve in alcohol and it might be alcohol based or something like that. The solvent evaporates from the duct tape leaving kind of a brittle layer of "glue". This is also why old rolls of duct tape left overs just unroll and produce dust from the glue that became brittle.
Especially on shellac, tapes with alcohol based solvent will damage the finish since shellac is also alcohol based.
Fixing this means that you need to scrape the part completely clean until all contamination is gone. With real shellac that could mean you have to sand down into the wood. What I do on furniture is to rub the piece with alcohol. If it feels like snot there is still tape residue on the part. Note that real shellac is alcohol based and it will dissolve in the alcohol too
I am a gaffer in the movie biz. Real gaff tape is a woven fabric. I have seen a car lifted with real gaff tape but it is hard to find. Go through the movie supply houses. Quixote, Cinelease, and a few others will sell you the real stuff. What Home Depot calls Gafffers tape is crap.Good luck!
Veeeery nice sound , and as always an outstanding job sir.
That whole feathering thing is an aha moment. Thanks!
I’ve just discovered your channel (thank you TH-cam algorithm!) and been fascinated by your work. I’ve ‘wasted’ a good few hours catching up with some of your videos and thoroughly enjoyed your superb work and your humour. I’ll watch a lot more! Yes, I’ve subscribed and hit the bell! 😃 Greetings from the UK 🇬🇧
Long time subscriber here and you should watch all the Shop Talks. They have tons of information in them. 😀😀
And welcome. 😀😀
I did the same thing.
You did a fantastic job on this repair. Most "professional Luthiers" would have had the customer invest another 8-12 hours labor to take the back off the traditional way and invest another 3-4 hours applying masking tape to the the fretboard and leveling, crowing and dressing the frets along with the many neck reset hours. Very nice sounding and functionally stable guitar now. The end result was excellent.
Regal resonators are awesome
@Rosa String Works each of your episodes is a Luthier University Lesson. And a darn interesting one, as long as it might be long, I never miss a second of it. I semi-built electric guitars so far but I'd love to build a classic one or to be able to service mines one day. So, thank you Sir.
Thanks again I always pick up something - That old Regal sounds surprising now.
Excellent job as always, shame it didn't get a new bridge, yeah I know, that one wasn't coming loose.
Me talking to you through the screen @ the 13 minute mark: "Don't forget the bridge plate!" Glad you caught it, lol. That new bridge plate seems to give that old "wreck" a lively sound.
really enjoyed the series
No need to justify anything that you do. It is generous of you to provide these videos for our learning and interests. Thank you.
Fantastic video Jerry keep them coming my friend
It's a joy to hear the results of your work. Thanks.
Another great restoration!
Melissa sounds like a bunch o’ fun!
You should've lightly stained that brace you added. I just couldn't live with that bright colored wood!!
Oh I'm just being facetious. You did an AWESOME job - as usual.
A pretty awesome sound coming from an inexpensive guitar. Probably hasn't sounded that good in years, especially all braced up and a padauk bridge plate. Thanks for the content.
Jerry anyone who would make a negative comment to gentlemen who’s been doing this as long as you have, is just plain ole dumb and wants to criticize for the sake of criticizing. Your knowledge to me at least is unquestionable. Your videos are better than attending a Luthiers school and a whole heck of lot less expensive.
😊😊😊😅😅😅😅
Another amazing job! Thanks for sharing!!
Your grandson gave you a new t-shirt slogan, Jerry. Youi could shorten it some with "Excuse me, I BUFFER often!!!" Now to the "Regal Reck." That is a humdinger of a guitar, in my estimation. I don't know where Regal places in the grand scheme of the hierarchy, but you definitely moved it up a serious number of notches. The sound and sustain are at least comparable to my Martin HD-28 and it is SUPER!!! Great job and two wonderful videos!!!
When I was at school, quite a long time ago, the school governors thought it a sensible idea to devote time each week to an hour's carpentry and an hour's metalwork to give a bit of balance to the students against a heavy academic load, and the school became endowed with two workshops that a medium-sized commercial outfit would have been proud to have owned. Two early-retired tradesmen were taken on to run the respective workshops. It is odd how one remember things, but every time I tighten a nut, there is, in the back of my head, the echo of my metalwork teacher saying, "Tight is tight, and no more."
Likewise, my carpentry instructor exhorting me to only ever cut the 'waste' side of the line, and that if I ever used a measuring stick to cut a number of items to its length, then to use only one stick for that purpose, which was so clearly marked that it was unusable for any other.
Who does not remember little quips about measuring twice, and suchlike, dropped within an offender's earshot ?
I have a block of wood 3/4" tall and 4 inches long, rounded on top and bottom. After loosening the strings, I slip this under the strings until it hits the bridge, then rotate it upright. This allows me to withdraw the saddle without too much effort.
In addition, I use a 1/2" hardwood dowel about 4" long with a 1/2 grove in each end. This is my string spreader, if I only have to work on a couple of ornery frets, etc.
Mylar is great as a shim for nuts and saddles, as it's tough, doesn't compress much, and comes in many increments of thickness from 5 mill upwards. I've found that you can use it to prop up a bridge that is a bit too narrow for the bridge slot, and is leaning forward, for instance. You put a strip of Mylar into the slot in front of the bridge. Cut it carefully, and it won't show.
Jerry has been an inspiration to me for trying many approaches to various problems. He seems tp always find a way, no matter how difficult the issue. Thanks, Jerry!
I glad in a way somebody else has all the problems I get with various things. And of course the customer never sees anything and assumes it was an easy quick job ! Keep plodding on best you can.
Cutting the back worked great I might do the same on one of mine,I was dreading it because of the binding, always learning thanks!
Sooo many useful tips. Great work mate, thanks
Not wrecked any longer, good one Jerry!!!
That Regal headstock and logo are sick! - Sharp looking guitar! Nice salvage job, Jerry, sounds terrific. Bet the client's jaw will drop when he starts to play it.
Hi Jerry! Loved your two video Regal Wreck series. No, don't be so hard on yourself about your guitar playing. That song sounded pretty darn good to me.
Professor Jerry !
Fab! I've been looking forward to this! Cheers Jerry from rainy England.
My eyes kept on being drawn to the shadow where the pickguard had been on the body, so I was ridiculously happy when you fixed the original pickguard back on :-D
All that bad gluing says it all. Its a Regal, not an old Martin. Love you Jerry! You always go the extra mile.
Jerry as usual you did a great job a real pro IMHO. I never question your methods I only learn new ways to work on my guitars many thanks
Once again I used your glue method Jerry. I made myself a guitar case, its no work of art, but its STRONG and functional. Thank you for your tips, hints and so many wonderful uploads, have a Blessed week end.
The finish you mention from the Harmony factory on the fretboard is commonplace and probably highlights a well worn machine that was used for the job over many years.
Outstanding repair
good sound a lot of work, i like the shortcut , you all have a good day
Hello! The plastic razors come in various qualities, softer, harder and sharper.
Jerry, what are you doing? Making a guitar solid and using glue not aproved by the youtube tone cork snifers :) thanks for taking us along for the ride.
Nice work Jerry, that guitar really turned out nice!
That is a nice sound!
The tone sounded just right at the end. Well done.
15:33 Jerry, you hit the nail on the head with this comment... Everybody makes mistakes, it's how you get out of them that counts! If you have the skill and knowledge to fix things then the mistakes don't matter!
Keep up the good work, Sir! You're an inspiration! I have the distinct impression that you've forgotten more about luthiery than I (& a whole lot of folks) will ever know!
Merci Jerry. Great job as always !
Another dumpster rescue by the Master Jedi Jerry... LOL
Great video, great restoration.
That ended up being one of the finest sounding guitars I've heard on your channel! It has a real deep bass and a crisp, but not scratchy, treble. Great job, as always!
Brilliant as always Jerry 👌
From the glue scars, looks like the factory only glued about 1 - 2 inches on each of the braces all the way across the back.
Jerry, stop worrying about explaining your process with, to be nice,(aholes ) who criticize your work. It’s your work, your process and your craft with your name and reputation. If they have issues, they should start their own channel!
I like his repetition, no matter the cause.
Good teachers always repeat themselves.
It helps everyone remember those details.
Great video Jerry, with a comprehensive set of problems tackled. That guitar almost had everything needing attention.
Beautiful sound
Never really though about sawing off a back BUT I would have to agree with you once you think about it. The traditional method can cause uneven breaking and uneven spots which then have to be sanded which in affect may cause even more of a mismatch. By sawing, the kerf actually matches up on both sides. Thanks for your clever insight to this repair!
Sounding great, and looking Good......... Sawing off the back was the way to go .......I really enjoy the time spent with you .....Has to be a bit rough at times lol lol all these Buddies looking over your shoulder hee hee
Grandma used to say “slicker than owl snot”
Awesome work, and one of the better sounding guitars you've done. One of my favorite folk singers, Bob Gibson played a Regal 12 string and I've only heard a couple that sounded any better. Thanks!
I love the song 🎉
Sounds sweet good job
Great job, per usual. I was wanting to see you use "Jerry's Flaming Varnish"🔥👌 perhaps another time. I'm thinking the finish on the sides was affected by a case. People tell me, I should put my guitars in their cases, but I usually don't, unless I'm moving them. The OLD Regal sounds, GREAT!
love that singin '
Nice fix
Buzzing in the nut, eh? Nuts, perhaps?
Really good work...the repairs were appropriate and the video editing superb. Thank you
hello Jerry! just a little word to say we ave accent on " déjà vu" . like from Corsica!
Terrific - thanks - subscribed!
Neat job there Jerry!
One more good thing about shellac is it penetrates the softer wood in a way similar to CA glue, thus hardening the surface. And it sticks to almost anything. Which comes handy sometimes.
Thumbs up to crush a troll.
sounds really good from here. you always downplay your guitar pickin but i bet there are plenty out there would love to be on the same level as you.
Nice sound!!
It sounds great good job
It looks like a one piece mahogany back, very nice wood in those.
It is not easy being you, but I am sure we have you.
Maybe masking tape on the body would help keep the leather circle clamps from slipping.
You can really hear the resonance even over the TV.
It takes bravery to drain the swamp when the gators are circling. Bravery requires sacrifice and sacrifice is rare these days.
Hi Jerry;
At about 16:10 It looks like one of the vertical side braces between the two kerfs is missing. However; if it is, it's missing on both sides. It's just that there's a bare spot on the wood that makes it look like something was pulled off there. Great job on the top and back. Are you sure that's not two big hands and one small hand (3 hands). Some of those sound holes are rather small. I hate to tell you how many times I have gotten ahead of myself on a project and been forced to back up and punt. That guitar really looks a lot better and sounds great now. I really love to watch your videos. keep on truckin my friend.
good job
💚 Very nice tone!
Some people beleive that hard wood like rosewood for the bridge plate kill any guitar but it seemed that padauk not (at least to my ears) good job as usual Jerry
You always want to use a good tone wood.
Something like oak or pine is just Dead.
And OMG! 😱 You Never use plywood. 🤢🤮🤢🤮
I like to think of glue joints like reinforced concrete. The glue is the cement. The wood is the aggregate/rebar. Any place where there is only cement(glue) there is no reinforcement. It will eventually crack. Idk if that's a good analogy or not but it makes sense in my brain.
About the only thing I think could've fixed that finish would've been to sand it a good bit, then shoot a couple coats of fresh finish on.
Agreed, I'll never understand the history over cosmetic thing, wouldn't have taken much to sand those stains back and colourmatch some shellac, or filling those ribbed marks on the front, I'd rather a clean looking guitar than some stubborn romance towards wear, there's a world of difference between say the gouge of a lifetimes playing on Willies Trigger and general damage or poor keep (imo)
I've left some dna on a work piece pushing a chisel towards my hand.
Metal is on rolls it will never be flat. Look at the most expensive knives
You cleaned the inside of back piece pretty good, but you could've sanded it a bit better because that's visible through the sound hole. I think it'll probably be okay, but it's slightly discolored where all that glue from previous work had been glommed all over the place. There is no original sticker, probably because of the mess from that original;"repair". You should make your own labels that say something about your company, and what you did, and when you did it. Hey! - Free advertising!! But when people look in the sound holes they should see sanded wood, and no glue.
You did a great job, and that guitar sounds as good as a Martin.
Thanks as always, Jerry, for a great video (and for treating us to the song at the end!) I was wondering if the finish on this guitar was nitro or poly? Maybe a 70s Regal? Appreciate all you do!
we live in two different worlds, haven't heard that song in years! great work my friend! I hope you make it to 100k and the algorithm doesn't start hating you the way it has me! you'll probably be ok.
Thanks Randy.. Sorry about your channel. Kind of like that old Jerry Reed song, she got the gold mine and you got the shaft. Its hard to figure the YT thing. I can get more views but the monitiztion go down, then the $ might go up when the views are down. Just can't figure it out. Oh well. Good luck to you.
I think I see a new T shirt...”Always buffering” 😂
"I may seen slow, sometimes, but I'm just buffering"
Interesting/informative to watch this. Jerry probably did more work on this guitar than the factory did. No X-brace/V-brace, no scalloping, poorly clamped/glued at the original factory. $500-1000 work on a guitar worth $100-400 on E-Bay. I can understand 'sentimental value', but a cheap catalogue guitar isn't a family heirloom Martin D-28. What was the customer thinking?