AND if you get yourself a 22mm wrench or socket before you round the corners you will have better luck.Most people use 7/8" wrench or socket.22mm fits tighter.its 20Thousands smaller.
On mine I can not get a socket or a box end on the hex of the sensor due to the cast iron manifold. I got the old one out with a vice grip on the body of the sensor. I don't know how I will get the new one tight. I couldn't even get an open end on it either, due to the casting of the manifold which in many places is almost as high as the hex nut on the sensor. Must be a special wrench out there somewhere. It basically in a blind area, where I can feel the casting, but I can not see it.
Tighten it like a gasketed spark plug. Finger snug with gasket touching then add 1/4 turn. It doesn't have to be ultra precise like a head bolt or water pump bolt. I explained that in the video. If you insist on using an exact torque value, you add the length of your tool's offset to the length of your torque measuring tool and adjust the torque setting down appropriately. IOW if your socket has an offset of 2" and your torque tool is 12", the socket adds about 17% to the length of the tool. Reduce your torque on your torque measurement tool by 17%. But truthfully I think it is WAY overthinking it. Yes - there is a torque value for every fastener on a vehicle. Many times common sense can prevail and the repair be successful. The big risk for O2 sensors is overtightening, tool damage to sensor, and crossthreading. Avoid those three traps and you're golden.
What if you cut the wire but can't remove the sensor removed a regular wrench. With the wires cut will the car still run? Just hard to know if I can remove the sensor without cutting the wires, don't want to be reattaching the wires with electrical tape.
It wil lrun but it won't run right with the sensor disconnected. Commit to the job in its entirety, take it to a professional, or abandon the idea of changing the sensor. There is no safe point halfway in. Sometimes you have to heat the pipe at the sensor thread area to get it out. Know that going in.
It will probably break when you apply pressure to it. You can look at Flare Nut Wrenches which are gapped box wrenches and see how robust they are built to accomodate the gap in the box end.
The split sockets are ONLY TO BE USED FOR RE-INSTALLING THE 02 SENSOR! These split sockets slip and round off the 02 sensors on stubborn 02 sensors upon attempted removal. And ALL of them are stubborn. Cutting the wire as close to the 02 sensor as possible and a 1/2" drive 22 mm six-point DEEP WELL IMPACT socket ($5.00 ish at home depot husky brand/check the inside depth before purchasing/must be deep interior) and a 1/2" breaker bar with a section of iron gas line pipe (or whatever you got) to slip over the end of the breaker bar for even more leverage is my next try, along with warming the engine for at least ten minutes and some penetrant spray and possibly heating with map gas. You will have even more problems if the split sockets are used in an attempt to remove the sensor.
On some cars like a Toyota venza u still cant get to the bank 2 af sensor even if u cut the wires cuz the intake manifold cover is in the way. Those special sockets are the way to go.
Sometimes a six point won't clock to the right position. A good quality 12 point wrench is fine. If a 12 point is going to round the sensor you need heat.
If you have a good fitting wrench such as the Snap On wrench shown, it is very do-able. I have used this technique dozens of times with the wrench shown. If a 12 point SO flank drive can't move it, it needs heat. Yes a 6 point will bite better, but at that point the sensor is gaulded and needs heat or risk pipe / manifold thread damage. I will agree that a cheap poorly fitting 12 point wrench might not be the best choice.
@@bobkos333 That assessment sounds sensible. I had to google "gaulded" and apparently its a horse riding term for a roughed-up/irritated/chafed horse's back and I get the picture when applied to butchered hex bolts... lol...
AND if you get yourself a 22mm wrench or socket before you round the corners you will have better luck.Most people use 7/8" wrench or socket.22mm fits tighter.its 20Thousands smaller.
On mine I can not get a socket or a box end on the hex of the sensor due to the cast iron manifold. I got the old one out with a vice grip on the body of the sensor. I don't know how I will get the new one tight. I couldn't even get an open end on it either, due to the casting of the manifold which in many places is almost as high as the hex nut on the sensor. Must be a special wrench out there somewhere. It basically in a blind area, where I can feel the casting, but I can not see it.
Thank you, very helpful video 👍💯
Great video can't ask for more very informative.
Tighten it like a gasketed spark plug. Finger snug with gasket touching then add 1/4 turn. It doesn't have to be ultra precise like a head bolt or water pump bolt. I explained that in the video. If you insist on using an exact torque value, you add the length of your tool's offset to the length of your torque measuring tool and adjust the torque setting down appropriately. IOW if your socket has an offset of 2" and your torque tool is 12", the socket adds about 17% to the length of the tool. Reduce your torque on your torque measurement tool by 17%. But truthfully I think it is WAY overthinking it. Yes - there is a torque value for every fastener on a vehicle. Many times common sense can prevail and the repair be successful. The big risk for O2 sensors is overtightening, tool damage to sensor, and crossthreading. Avoid those three traps and you're golden.
He never tells you WHAT SIZE SOCKET OR WRENCH OMFG
If you're going to use a boxed end wrench make sure it's a six point.
What if you cut the wire but can't remove the sensor removed a regular wrench. With the wires cut will the car still run? Just hard to know if I can remove the sensor without cutting the wires, don't want to be reattaching the wires with electrical tape.
It wil lrun but it won't run right with the sensor disconnected. Commit to the job in its entirety, take it to a professional, or abandon the idea of changing the sensor. There is no safe point halfway in. Sometimes you have to heat the pipe at the sensor thread area to get it out. Know that going in.
Tape them back together then head to a muffler shop
What if i take my 7/8th wrench and cut a notch in the closed end?
It will probably break when you apply pressure to it. You can look at Flare Nut Wrenches which are gapped box wrenches and see how robust they are built to accomodate the gap in the box end.
What brand of socket is the very long one?
The socket is completely unmarked. I don't know. I picked it up at a garage sale of all places.
I take my earlier comment back. I have discovered that this tool was made by a company called Lance Tool in Royal Oak MI - lancetools.com.
The split sockets are ONLY TO BE USED FOR RE-INSTALLING THE 02 SENSOR! These split sockets slip and round off the 02 sensors on stubborn 02 sensors upon attempted removal. And ALL of them are stubborn. Cutting the wire as close to the 02 sensor as possible and a 1/2" drive 22 mm six-point DEEP WELL IMPACT socket ($5.00 ish at home depot husky brand/check the inside depth before purchasing/must be deep interior) and a 1/2" breaker bar with a section of iron gas line pipe (or whatever you got) to slip over the end of the breaker bar for even more leverage is my next try, along with warming the engine for at least ten minutes and some penetrant spray and possibly heating with map gas. You will have even more problems if the split sockets are used in an attempt to remove the sensor.
On some cars like a Toyota venza u still cant get to the bank 2 af sensor even if u cut the wires cuz the intake manifold cover is in the way. Those special sockets are the way to go.
What size SOCKET!!!
MARK CASTORENA 7/8” or 22mm
7/8
Couldn't you just cut the wires and splice them back together?
I got to replace mine too tank's for the video.
He forgot to mention you should soak it with all free two three days before you attempt taking it out!
Also forgot about the offset o2 sensor socket for tight spaces
And technique of using a short 3lb sledge hammer to hit the wrench to nock it loose .
Thank you my man
I almost had it then it got stuck any of the clothes that you mention for garbage to me
Be nice if ya tell the thread size so i can scare up a tap 2 chase d thread in d manifold.
Sometimes a six point won't clock to the right position. A good quality 12 point wrench is fine. If a 12 point is going to round the sensor you need heat.
Has to be a 6 flats wrench...not a 12 like this one..The 6 sides on the sensor hex then mate with the wrench....
If you have a good fitting wrench such as the Snap On wrench shown, it is very do-able. I have used this technique dozens of times with the wrench shown. If a 12 point SO flank drive can't move it, it needs heat. Yes a 6 point will bite better, but at that point the sensor is gaulded and needs heat or risk pipe / manifold thread damage. I will agree that a cheap poorly fitting 12 point wrench might not be the best choice.
@@bobkos333 That assessment sounds sensible. I had to google "gaulded" and apparently its a horse riding term for a roughed-up/irritated/chafed horse's back and I get the picture when applied to butchered hex bolts... lol...
I tried every trick on mine and nothing. It took me a pair of vise grips and a hammer
Offset 3/8ths and a breaker bar for me.
Soak it in cider.
何言ってるか分からん😵🌀日本語Japaneseでしゃべってよ。😅