Hey Tony, thanks for the in-depth video walking through everything! Mitch mentioned it below already, but the crucial thing forgotten here unfortunately is Voltage Cutoffs (Motor CFG -> General -> Voltage) after motor setup. The Motor Setup process sets these based on the battery specs you enter, but the values it sets are much too high for our use case. Unfortunately this is one of the worst possible things that could be forgotten here, since it will give a false sense of safety as the board will ride fine for the first half of its battery life. But once you get past I believe 68V or so, well before Low Voltage Tiltback kicks in, it will start ramping current down as you approach 60V, meaning you won't receive any Low Voltage Tiltback warning prior, and a voltage sag dip could result in a very sudden nosedive. I would personally recommend the Cutoff Start and Cutoff End be set to the equivalent of 2.7V per cell and 2.5V per cell respectively, so 54V Cutoff Start and 50V Cutoff End. Everything else looks solid as far as I can tell without testing the board myself, though just to make things more fail-proof, I would probably clarify on a few things as well: - When picking motor direction after motor setup, you must make sure the Forward button rolls the motor toward the sensor / controller side when upright. And if not, you must flip the invert toggle and verify again (I assume it never needs to be inverted if it's assembled consistently with the same plug order for the phase wires, but better safe than sorry). Your explanation skimmed over this a bit, for how vital of a step it is. - I personally would've just waited to install Float Package until after IMU calibration, since it's not needed before and forgetting to disable it could cause trouble during IMU calibration if the sensors are engaged during. Just to avoid unnecessary risk. And don't forget to Update Archive prior, to make sure you're installing the latest version of the Float Package! I see you haven't done so in a bit yourself haha, with it still being on 1.0. - For Accel Y, I would clarify that you have to prop the board up on the nose / controller side, not the tail, as it wasn't specified verbally. And for Accelerometer in general, I would clarify that if you are seeing negative values instead of positive, you're doing the opposite orientation and need to flip the board around. - For the Yaw step of Orientation, I would make sure to specify lifting the nose up, not the tail, as lifting the tail will invert the IMU. Not as big of a deal, as the tail naturally drops down, but still worth the clarification due to the consequence of doing this step incorrectly - For verifying the IMU data in RT Data, I would rely less on the 3D model and more on the values, particularly to ensure it's not inverted. For the natural nose-up resting position, Roll should read near 0, and Pitch should read near positive 20. If Roll reads +/- 20 instead of Pitch, or if Pitch reads -20 instead of +20, then the Yaw step of Orientation calibration was done incorrectly and needs to be re-done properly, or the board will behave inverted. - Even after verifying functionality by watching the free spin, before mounting the board, I would highly recommend setting it on the ground and engaging by hand first. That way, you can verify it's ability to actually balance in place when engaged, without the need to risk anything happening to yourself by mounting it first. Again, just a matter of avoiding unnecessary risk. Apologies for getting nit picky! I know I plan to film a setup video myself once I have my own board as well. I just think that, especially with a more consumer-friendly focused board like this compared to more DIY-focused VESC setups, it's important to be as clear and fool-proof as possible, with the assumption that the audience knows nothing going into this. Especially after setting up so many boards, it's very easy to go into auto-pilot or assume some things are common sense, so I totally understand how it happens haha. Regardless, thank you for taking the time for this! Unfortunately, I would definitely re-upload with an edit to cover the forgotten Voltage cutoff issue, just because of how catastrophic of an error it is. But either way, super excited for this release! It's finally happening! 🤙👏
@@floatwheel Good morning When I see the complexity of settings and the risks in case of error, would it be possible to have a configuration file according to the model ordered: - A configuration file for the case of an ADV PRO - A configuration file for the case of an ADV without battery upgrade - A configuration file for the case of an ADV with battery upgrade Once the engine is mounted on the board, we would just need to load the correct firmware and then put the configuration file that corresponds to the model received. THANKS
How to guide-format to Nico's details Step 1: Motor Configuration - Voltage Cutoffs Go to Motor CFG -> General -> Voltage in the settings. After completing the motor setup process, adjust the Voltage Cutoffs to ensure safety. The values set by default may be too high, so it's crucial to modify them. Set the Cutoff Start and Cutoff End to 2.7V per cell and 2.5V per cell, respectively. This corresponds to 54V Cutoff Start and 50V Cutoff End. Step 2: Motor Direction After the motor setup, check the motor direction for proper operation. Make sure the Forward button rolls the motor toward the sensor/controller side when the board is upright. If the direction is incorrect, flip the invert toggle and verify again. Ensuring the correct motor direction is vital, so pay attention to this step. Step 3: Installing the Float Package Consider installing the Float Package after IMU calibration for added safety. Wait to install the Float Package until after the IMU calibration to avoid any potential issues. Prioritize disabling the Float Package during IMU calibration to prevent sensor engagement. Remember to Update Archive before installing the Float Package to get the latest version. Step 4: Accel Y Calibration For the Accel Y calibration, prop the board up on the nose/controller side, not the tail. Make sure the orientation is specified clearly to achieve accurate calibration. If you see negative values instead of positive, you have the wrong orientation, and the board needs to be flipped. Step 5: Yaw Orientation Calibration During the Yaw step of Orientation calibration, lift the nose up, not the tail. Lifting the tail will invert the IMU, so be mindful of the correct action. It's a minor detail, but an important clarification to prevent errors. Step 6: Verifying IMU Data in RT Data Focus on the values rather than the 3D model when verifying IMU data. Check the Roll and Pitch values to ensure proper orientation. In the natural nose-up resting position, Roll should read near 0, and Pitch should read near positive 20. If Roll shows +/- 20 instead of Pitch, or if Pitch shows -20 instead of +20, the Yaw step of Orientation calibration was done incorrectly. Step 7: Functional Verification Before mounting the board, test its functionality by engaging it manually. Set the board on the ground and engage it by hand to ensure it can balance in place. This step helps verify proper functioning without the need to mount the board, minimizing unnecessary risk.
IF YOU ARE NOT MECHANICALLY INCLINED, DO NOT USE POWER TOOLS FOR ASSEMBLY! At the very least, reverse each screw, to seat it, to avoid cross threading!
3Rd time I watch it, really I can't wait to build and ride mine !!! This hub looks so nice, Forzenduro tire is so nice too... And I can't wait to see what aftermarkets will do about it !!
You are awesome. The work ethic is unreal. I’m part of the second batch, I’ll report when I get mine. It should be soon cuz it shipped over a month ago now
For IMU SETUP: Your IMU (accelerometer) may be mounted in a different position than in this video. Therefore you'll need to rotate in a different axis. For me: X was lift up and have it stand on either nose or tail vertical For Y: Side to Side For Z: just level it on two chairs Also its recommended to do the Orientation collaboration before accelerometer calloboration. Best of luck
FYI if you are having trouble engaging. My foopad voltages were reading 2.8v each side. the FLOAT CFG default is 3.00. Lowered to 2.2 and works like a champ!
Motor finally arrived and two broken plastic mounts on the front foot pad later, I was able to get the wheel installed. However, setting up the VESC was another story. Using the Mac-based software, I was finally able to get it to connect. However, after going through the set up, several parameters on the Detection Results screen were not even close to the values displayed in your setup video. So I decided to start from scratch. Redoing the steps, I arrived at the same result. Concerned but undaunted, I proceeded with the next steps anyway. But when it came time to do the Gyroscope calibration, the numbers were again not very close to yours, and then with the Accelerometer Calibration, the axes were not as shown in the video, with the X axis hitting max levels while balancing on the nose, the Y axis being with the board in riding orientation, and the Z axis being with the board on its side. I attempted redoing previous steps again, but again found the same thing. Now, four passes through the setup and stuck once again in the Accelerometer calibration step, I decided again to just use the orientations that the board was using, and went to the Orientation calibration step. Using a level app, I got the board level, and of course once again, none of my valise matched yours for roll, pitch, or yaw. Not surprisingly the board’s orientation did not match the app. When I then tested the board, it would not activate in any orientation. So I put is aside, planning on starting fresh the next day.. When I came back to it today, the board shows up when scanned with the app, but even after over a dozen attempts, it will not connect over bluetooth, no matter how close I bring the board to my computer, what orientation I hold it. I am beginning to think that something ended up bricking the board. I am at a loss as to how to proceed. Any help at this state would be greatly appreciated.
Never thought i would learn how to calibrate my Vesc here 😄 Somehow Tony’s Chinese-English makes this matter less complex to understand 🤙🏽 Stoked for the first reviews! Float on!!!
Hey Tony i just got mine delivered today. It looks amazing!! Do the fender bolts, hub bolts, and tools come with the motor package or do they come with adv package?
Boards all tuned and freaking awesome!!!! Just one thing, there is a high pitched noise constantly when riding, is it possible to change that? Think the pitch of the motor can be changed with zero vector frequency?
Hey Tony, it looks like you changed the height adjustment concept for the ADV Pro. At least the block looks different than on your website. Am I right with that? How does the height adjustment work now. How many screws have to be removed to adjust the height?
Please update the board and give us an option to turn off and control the lights thru the app! Sometimes I need to hide from the cops when im riding late night through Central Park, NY 🥲
You forgot to lower the cutoff voltage in the motor config. But i feel like i should let @surfdado point that out. With the default motor voltage setting, youll have a motor shutoff at the same voltage as your low battery tiltback, which is bad 🤕
^^^ Was just about to comment on this, unfortunately this is one of the worst possible things that could be forgotten here, since it will give a false sense of safety as the board will ride fine for the first half of its battery life. But once you get past half (don't remember what exactly motor setup defaults the voltage cutoffs to), it can and will drop into that cutoff range well before Low Voltage Tiltback kicks in and cutoff on you, resulting in a very sudden nosedive. I would personally recommend the Cutoff Start and Cutoff End be set to the equivalent of 2.7V per cell and 2.5V per cell respectively, so 54V Cutoff Start and 50V Cutoff End. (For reference, this is under Motor CFG -> General -> Voltage)
@@nicoaleman from about 68ish down to 60 it'll start tapering off the max output torque, with a full shut off at 60. Hopefully riders whomstve skipped this step will feel the torque loss before they 🤕. But it can very easily go the wrong way. Thankfully these boards have great batteries, so i don't think we need to worry about a rider sagging from 68 to 60 and getting a cutout from full power.
Could you give any torque specs on the different screws? I saw you said 20 on the power drill for the hub motor bracket, but what about the rest? So we don’t over tighten them.
In motor cfg, general, voltage, we agree that the values of 68 and 60v are dangerous? This risks stopping the motor at the end of the battery before tiltback
Hello, i use loctite 243 on plastics or no ? I read on reddit loctite eats plastic I will assembling my board today and i dont know if i do use loctite on plastics Thanks a lot (im french)
Love your videos ,i received my board June 22 , my came by at midnight check it out and love it. He want one ,but I have trouble placing $10 deposit & green . Message said There was an issue processing your payment or try again. Help thank you.
Hey Tony - no pressure from me, patiently waiting. Just curious to know if you have a lead time for first batch boards arriving in Europe / UK as I can see some guys in the US are now receiving their boards so hoping to see some tracking details soon!
Good morning When I see the complexity of settings and the risks in case of error, would it be possible to have a configuration file according to the model ordered: - A configuration file for the case of an ADV PRO - A configuration file for the case of an ADV without battery upgrade - A configuration file for the case of an ADV with battery upgrade Once the engine is mounted on the board, we would just need to load the correct firmware and then put the configuration file that corresponds to the model received. THANKS
Just got myn today! no rail guards or the other colored plastics i ordered tho? do they come seperatly? Also a big spark when plugging it in.. thought there would be an antispark on it :/
Hey ! I live in France where the legal maximum speed is 25 km/h. Does anyone know if it's possible to limit the speed of my board in case of control ? If possible do you know if some tutorial exist ? :)
Can someone please clear this up, if you order this board -adv pro does it come seperate to the motor and you have to set it up like in this video? Thanks
21:47 what do you mean not to lift it up the board with the footpad, didn't you just do it before telling us that? Or are you saying not to lift the board with the foot senor (thing plastic that you installed on the board)? Edit: nvm I see that the foot pad extends out from the board, makes sense now.
Hey Tony! Do you plan on making a smaller XR/PintX sized build? I would love a floatwheel but the ADV size and weight would be too much for me commuting and carrying around my college campus. Can’t wait to see what you have coming next!
usually try multiple time to detect you will detect BMI160, if you see your rt data page, the Avatar moves as you move your board, your imu is ok, it's just something wrong with ios software that it takes multiple tries to get it to detect bmi160
Hello would it be possible to make a new video tutorial with only the vesc configuration part by correcting the error? THANKS for people who don't know this type of setting at all, it's really important THANKS
@@chrisc790the video shows the motor obviously - you want to see the stator? I see no good reason for Tony to show it, but I’m sure some of the customers will do a tear down video eventually
I was beyond excited for this for 8+ months. But after seeing the fixed position of the motor wire with almost no clearance around the tire itself made me feel real uncomfy. Hit one decently sized rock that whips up into the board and you risk dislodging/damaging the most crucial connection that keeps you safe. I cant imagine the entire wire connection being safe long term even with a heat coupled connection. Its too close to the wheel and with the mileage people do this clearance between the tire is dangerous longterm.
It is impossible, because the fender base extends to the bottom half to isolate the connection from the tyre, plus the cable is locked in place, so there is 0 wiggle rrom for the cable to move around to get loosen, you are just imagining problem out of thin air.
I actually watched a video recently of this exact thing happening. A guy had a rock fire up into the motor cable and it started sparking and everything. Was pretty wild. Here's video: th-cam.com/video/MDLn9c4fsxY/w-d-xo.html
what exact screw did I strip? you must come from the old ass XR rail which is cheapo and easy to strip, always use power tools Life is too short to use non power tools
Can I ask when you made your final payment? I got a "ready to ship" email on May 26, made my final payment on June 7, but I have heard nothing since then. I sent a few emails to Tony but he never answered. I know shipping from China is slow, but I can't help wondering if maybe my money is just going to disappear.
Hey Tony, thanks for the in-depth video walking through everything! Mitch mentioned it below already, but the crucial thing forgotten here unfortunately is Voltage Cutoffs (Motor CFG -> General -> Voltage) after motor setup. The Motor Setup process sets these based on the battery specs you enter, but the values it sets are much too high for our use case. Unfortunately this is one of the worst possible things that could be forgotten here, since it will give a false sense of safety as the board will ride fine for the first half of its battery life. But once you get past I believe 68V or so, well before Low Voltage Tiltback kicks in, it will start ramping current down as you approach 60V, meaning you won't receive any Low Voltage Tiltback warning prior, and a voltage sag dip could result in a very sudden nosedive. I would personally recommend the Cutoff Start and Cutoff End be set to the equivalent of 2.7V per cell and 2.5V per cell respectively, so 54V Cutoff Start and 50V Cutoff End.
Everything else looks solid as far as I can tell without testing the board myself, though just to make things more fail-proof, I would probably clarify on a few things as well:
- When picking motor direction after motor setup, you must make sure the Forward button rolls the motor toward the sensor / controller side when upright. And if not, you must flip the invert toggle and verify again (I assume it never needs to be inverted if it's assembled consistently with the same plug order for the phase wires, but better safe than sorry). Your explanation skimmed over this a bit, for how vital of a step it is.
- I personally would've just waited to install Float Package until after IMU calibration, since it's not needed before and forgetting to disable it could cause trouble during IMU calibration if the sensors are engaged during. Just to avoid unnecessary risk. And don't forget to Update Archive prior, to make sure you're installing the latest version of the Float Package! I see you haven't done so in a bit yourself haha, with it still being on 1.0.
- For Accel Y, I would clarify that you have to prop the board up on the nose / controller side, not the tail, as it wasn't specified verbally. And for Accelerometer in general, I would clarify that if you are seeing negative values instead of positive, you're doing the opposite orientation and need to flip the board around.
- For the Yaw step of Orientation, I would make sure to specify lifting the nose up, not the tail, as lifting the tail will invert the IMU. Not as big of a deal, as the tail naturally drops down, but still worth the clarification due to the consequence of doing this step incorrectly
- For verifying the IMU data in RT Data, I would rely less on the 3D model and more on the values, particularly to ensure it's not inverted. For the natural nose-up resting position, Roll should read near 0, and Pitch should read near positive 20. If Roll reads +/- 20 instead of Pitch, or if Pitch reads -20 instead of +20, then the Yaw step of Orientation calibration was done incorrectly and needs to be re-done properly, or the board will behave inverted.
- Even after verifying functionality by watching the free spin, before mounting the board, I would highly recommend setting it on the ground and engaging by hand first. That way, you can verify it's ability to actually balance in place when engaged, without the need to risk anything happening to yourself by mounting it first. Again, just a matter of avoiding unnecessary risk.
Apologies for getting nit picky! I know I plan to film a setup video myself once I have my own board as well. I just think that, especially with a more consumer-friendly focused board like this compared to more DIY-focused VESC setups, it's important to be as clear and fool-proof as possible, with the assumption that the audience knows nothing going into this. Especially after setting up so many boards, it's very easy to go into auto-pilot or assume some things are common sense, so I totally understand how it happens haha.
Regardless, thank you for taking the time for this! Unfortunately, I would definitely re-upload with an edit to cover the forgotten Voltage cutoff issue, just because of how catastrophic of an error it is. But either way, super excited for this release! It's finally happening! 🤙👏
my bad the scar on me from the last video was from this missing voltage cut out, almost make everyone eat shit with this mistake😭😭❤Thank you so much
Thank you for this Tony and Nico!
@@floatwheel Good morning
When I see the complexity of settings and the risks in case of error, would it be possible to have a configuration file according to the model ordered:
- A configuration file for the case of an ADV PRO
- A configuration file for the case of an ADV without battery upgrade
- A configuration file for the case of an ADV with battery upgrade
Once the engine is mounted on the board, we would just need to load the correct firmware and then put the configuration file that corresponds to the model received.
THANKS
@@floatwheel get well soon
How to guide-format to Nico's details
Step 1: Motor Configuration - Voltage Cutoffs
Go to Motor CFG -> General -> Voltage in the settings.
After completing the motor setup process, adjust the Voltage Cutoffs to ensure safety.
The values set by default may be too high, so it's crucial to modify them.
Set the Cutoff Start and Cutoff End to 2.7V per cell and 2.5V per cell, respectively.
This corresponds to 54V Cutoff Start and 50V Cutoff End.
Step 2: Motor Direction
After the motor setup, check the motor direction for proper operation.
Make sure the Forward button rolls the motor toward the sensor/controller side when the board is upright.
If the direction is incorrect, flip the invert toggle and verify again.
Ensuring the correct motor direction is vital, so pay attention to this step.
Step 3: Installing the Float Package
Consider installing the Float Package after IMU calibration for added safety.
Wait to install the Float Package until after the IMU calibration to avoid any potential issues.
Prioritize disabling the Float Package during IMU calibration to prevent sensor engagement.
Remember to Update Archive before installing the Float Package to get the latest version.
Step 4: Accel Y Calibration
For the Accel Y calibration, prop the board up on the nose/controller side, not the tail.
Make sure the orientation is specified clearly to achieve accurate calibration.
If you see negative values instead of positive, you have the wrong orientation, and the board needs to be flipped.
Step 5: Yaw Orientation Calibration
During the Yaw step of Orientation calibration, lift the nose up, not the tail.
Lifting the tail will invert the IMU, so be mindful of the correct action.
It's a minor detail, but an important clarification to prevent errors.
Step 6: Verifying IMU Data in RT Data
Focus on the values rather than the 3D model when verifying IMU data.
Check the Roll and Pitch values to ensure proper orientation.
In the natural nose-up resting position, Roll should read near 0, and Pitch should read near positive 20.
If Roll shows +/- 20 instead of Pitch, or if Pitch shows -20 instead of +20, the Yaw step of Orientation calibration was done incorrectly.
Step 7: Functional Verification
Before mounting the board, test its functionality by engaging it manually.
Set the board on the ground and engage it by hand to ensure it can balance in place.
This step helps verify proper functioning without the need to mount the board, minimizing unnecessary risk.
Hello from Thailand. That's my board. Cant wait 🧡
It looks like your board already arrived, right? Congrats!!!
Will you post some riding videos on your YT channel?
I just saw, you uploaded a vid. Thanks man!
😍 So cool to have some news! I have nothing but love for your work!
IF YOU ARE NOT MECHANICALLY INCLINED, DO NOT USE POWER TOOLS FOR ASSEMBLY! At the very least, reverse each screw, to seat it, to avoid cross threading!
And be sure to lower your torque settings from drill to like 5lbs, finish by hand
This board looks absolutely incredible, I’m soooooo excited
Been waiting for something better than future motion and that has now arrived! This is to be my 1st OW, can't wait!
It's not gonna be your first OW since OW is a product made by future motion, it'll be your first electric uni-board!
I got my FloatWheel ADV today just now, I'm going to follow this tutorial now!
Ohhhh yeahhhhh! This is awesome I’m so excited for people to get there boards. Great work Toni you legend!! 🎉🎉🎉
真辛苦啊，开发，公司人员调度，游玩展示，教程全是你一个人在搞
要恰饭的嘛😅
Just in time 🎉. I look forward to following your tutorial.
Good setup video, I had no idea people buying float Wheels would have to do this. I've already been through this because I've built my own diy board.
This board looks awesome. Can't wait to ride one
3Rd time I watch it, really I can't wait to build and ride mine !!! This hub looks so nice, Forzenduro tire is so nice too... And I can't wait to see what aftermarkets will do about it !!
Wow!!! Amazing!! Thank you Tony!!!!❤
You are awesome. The work ethic is unreal. I’m part of the second batch, I’ll report when I get mine. It should be soon cuz it shipped over a month ago now
A month ago?… 😂
@@dezh2544 May 18th payment was made when I got the email saying ready to ship May 8th. From that date, its been 47 days... waiting patiently...
Thanks Tony I'm chilling now , looking great 👍
Great stuff, can`t wait to finally get mine!
im defo going to buy this down the road its really good looking build quality
You my hero, Tony!
Congrats on the deliveries!!
damn ...actually excited to see it on the trails!!
IN VESC WE TRUST ;) can't wait to receive mine, it looks wonderful, and it looks PAAAAAOOWEEERRFUUUUUL !!
For IMU SETUP: Your IMU (accelerometer) may be mounted in a different position than in this video. Therefore you'll need to rotate in a different axis.
For me: X was lift up and have it stand on either nose or tail vertical
For Y: Side to Side
For Z: just level it on two chairs
Also its recommended to do the Orientation collaboration before accelerometer calloboration. Best of luck
Mine was the same, but also seems to affect the Yaw Angle calibration. I don't think I should be at 90 for that because of this but not sure?
Mine was 0 for Yaw Angle calibration, hope I don't die.
I have to admit, you impressed me, one of your harshest critics. Now fix that plastic issue ASAP and offer free replacement!
Looks so good!
Great Tony good tutorial thanks
Looks pretty.
got my board boys, just waiting on the motor!!
FYI if you are having trouble engaging. My foopad voltages were reading 2.8v each side. the FLOAT CFG default is 3.00. Lowered to 2.2 and works like a champ!
Got mine today woot!! 🎉
Maximum hype!
Motor finally arrived and two broken plastic mounts on the front foot pad later, I was able to get the wheel installed. However, setting up the VESC was another story. Using the Mac-based software, I was finally able to get it to connect. However, after going through the set up, several parameters on the Detection Results screen were not even close to the values displayed in your setup video. So I decided to start from scratch. Redoing the steps, I arrived at the same result. Concerned but undaunted, I proceeded with the next steps anyway. But when it came time to do the Gyroscope calibration, the numbers were again not very close to yours, and then with the Accelerometer Calibration, the axes were not as shown in the video, with the X axis hitting max levels while balancing on the nose, the Y axis being with the board in riding orientation, and the Z axis being with the board on its side.
I attempted redoing previous steps again, but again found the same thing. Now, four passes through the setup and stuck once again in the Accelerometer calibration step, I decided again to just use the orientations that the board was using, and went to the Orientation calibration step. Using a level app, I got the board level, and of course once again, none of my valise matched yours for roll, pitch, or yaw. Not surprisingly the board’s orientation did not match the app.
When I then tested the board, it would not activate in any orientation.
So I put is aside, planning on starting fresh the next day..
When I came back to it today, the board shows up when scanned with the app, but even after over a dozen attempts, it will not connect over bluetooth, no matter how close I bring the board to my computer, what orientation I hold it. I am beginning to think that something ended up bricking the board.
I am at a loss as to how to proceed.
Any help at this state would be greatly appreciated.
I’m waiting for mine ❤
Never thought i would learn how to calibrate my Vesc here 😄
Somehow Tony’s Chinese-English makes this matter less complex to understand 🤙🏽
Stoked for the first reviews! Float on!!!
I am so excited for it to arrive
Very nice!
Hey Tony i just got mine delivered today. It looks amazing!! Do the fender bolts, hub bolts, and tools come with the motor package or do they come with adv package?
That thing looks rapid!
Boards all tuned and freaking awesome!!!! Just one thing, there is a high pitched noise constantly when riding, is it possible to change that? Think the pitch of the motor can be changed with zero vector frequency?
Dat wheel PHAT!
One hour content! Like
Hey Tony, it looks like you changed the height adjustment concept for the ADV Pro. At least the block looks different than on your website. Am I right with that? How does the height adjustment work now. How many screws have to be removed to adjust the height?
Wow, 54 minutes 😅 but nice video! Is it really a 300mm tire diameter? That’s huge! Boards are trickling in in the US so things are about to get real!🎉
yup
Hey which screw attachments do you need ? Hard to tell which attachments you are using on your drill
if we buy just a motor or motor plug assembly sometime soon, how long do you think until something like that would be able to ship out?
Any chance we can see some water proofing tests?
Looks so fun🤘🏻😎 one day…😂
Please update the board and give us an option to turn off and control the lights thru the app! Sometimes I need to hide from the cops when im riding late night through Central Park, NY 🥲
gotthis
i’m glad someone else said what i said. i been team tony 100 percent the way and then the very end of video i see that and killed it for me 😢
just seen your reply tony. heck yeah!
Do you have specs for all of the screws used? I want get titanium ones before my board arrives.
Do you have any doc/manual that explain what are those settings and how to fine tune in by any chance ?
Omg u have to do allllllllllll this if I want to buy this board !!!!!! 🤯
The positive is when something breaks you can fix it yourself instead of sending it in
@@novakane8722 Or even if you're not handy yourself, it'd be easier to find someone to fix it for you locally than a Onewheel
You forgot to lower the cutoff voltage in the motor config. But i feel like i should let @surfdado point that out. With the default motor voltage setting, youll have a motor shutoff at the same voltage as your low battery tiltback, which is bad 🤕
Great video otherwise, I'm impressed you got everything right 👏
^^^ Was just about to comment on this, unfortunately this is one of the worst possible things that could be forgotten here, since it will give a false sense of safety as the board will ride fine for the first half of its battery life. But once you get past half (don't remember what exactly motor setup defaults the voltage cutoffs to), it can and will drop into that cutoff range well before Low Voltage Tiltback kicks in and cutoff on you, resulting in a very sudden nosedive. I would personally recommend the Cutoff Start and Cutoff End be set to the equivalent of 2.7V per cell and 2.5V per cell respectively, so 54V Cutoff Start and 50V Cutoff End. (For reference, this is under Motor CFG -> General -> Voltage)
@@nicoaleman from about 68ish down to 60 it'll start tapering off the max output torque, with a full shut off at 60. Hopefully riders whomstve skipped this step will feel the torque loss before they 🤕. But it can very easily go the wrong way.
Thankfully these boards have great batteries, so i don't think we need to worry about a rider sagging from 68 to 60 and getting a cutout from full power.
@@nicoaleman saved it to not forget! thanks
Yessss
It’s been 2 month and I just received my board today, is it still the latest video to follow ?
Any news on shipment?
Have u infill slime or do we need to put ouselves?)
I saw that there are a few differences in confirmation compared to the new film. Now, when configuring, should I use the new movie or the old one?
Good morning
Would it be possible to make a video with the assembly of a standard Floatwheel ADV? Is the way of mounting the standard ADV identical?
How do you adjust the height
Could you give any torque specs on the different screws? I saw you said 20 on the power drill for the hub motor bracket, but what about the rest? So we don’t over tighten them.
18in-lbs for M5 into aluminum
When do you plan to ship next batches ? I'm 1825 and I've seen some orders in 18xx were shipped 2 weeks ago :D Can't wait to get mine
nvm got the mail today cann't wait :D
I want mine already 🙏🏻🙏🏻
In motor cfg, general, voltage, we agree that the values of 68 and 60v are dangerous? This risks stopping the motor at the end of the battery before tiltback
yup should set as 50v 40v
Hello, i use loctite 243 on plastics or no ? I read on reddit loctite eats plastic
I will assembling my board today and i dont know if i do use loctite on plastics
Thanks a lot (im french)
中国人想买可以吗？很想要，感觉帅呆了。
Are you still shipping to the US with all BS from FM?
Love your videos ,i received my board June 22 , my came by at midnight check it out and love it. He want one ,but I have trouble placing $10 deposit & green . Message said There was an issue processing your payment or try again. Help thank you.
What was your order number, and where do you live approximately? Thank you!
Just got my board. Quick question though, should it turn on or is there something inside I need to plug in?
Plug in the charger and see if it then lets you turn it on. The 6 weeks on the ship probably discharged the battery quite a bit
Hey Tony - no pressure from me, patiently waiting. Just curious to know if you have a lead time for first batch boards arriving in Europe / UK as I can see some guys in the US are now receiving their boards so hoping to see some tracking details soon!
probably US customs waving it through while they're a bit more inspecting in Europe. At least in Germany shipments always take AGES to clear customs
First
Good morning
When I see the complexity of settings and the risks in case of error, would it be possible to have a configuration file according to the model ordered:
- A configuration file for the case of an ADV PRO
- A configuration file for the case of an ADV without battery upgrade
- A configuration file for the case of an ADV with battery upgrade
Once the engine is mounted on the board, we would just need to load the correct firmware and then put the configuration file that corresponds to the model received.
THANKS
Stuck at calibration! Please help
Is it still possible to buy a floatwheel? Still waiting for a respond from your website/ Webshop
Just got myn today! no rail guards or the other colored plastics i ordered tho? do they come seperatly? Also a big spark when plugging it in.. thought there would be an antispark on it :/
first time plug in is for activation, from now on the anti spark works everytime. Yep plastic ship seperately
@@floatwheel Thanks heaps appreciate the support!
Seeing the issues in the comments I fell you should put edit in the video or redo it!
Hey ! I live in France where the legal maximum speed is 25 km/h. Does anyone know if it's possible to limit the speed of my board in case of control ? If possible do you know if some tutorial exist ? :)
34:42 Wow, that was like witnessing a birth. So cool.
What is the current wait time on new orders?
Somewhere close to 60 days
Can someone please clear this up, if you order this board -adv pro does it come seperate to the motor and you have to set it up like in this video? Thanks
That’s correct - it’s possible future orders will come preassembled but for the moment the motor and board are shipped separately
@@peterjonesio genuinely appreciate your kind response, thanks man
21:47 what do you mean not to lift it up the board with the footpad, didn't you just do it before telling us that? Or are you saying not to lift the board with the foot senor (thing plastic that you installed on the board)?
Edit: nvm I see that the foot pad extends out from the board, makes sense now.
Hi tony do you know what's going on with shipping to Europe, it seems to be delayed
Hey Tony! Do you plan on making a smaller XR/PintX sized build? I would love a floatwheel but the ADV size and weight would be too much for me commuting and carrying around my college campus. Can’t wait to see what you have coming next!
noted
Agree..every advancement seems to get heavier…. Going lighter would be great
@@roy326what kinda range are you looking for?
@@Z0mb13ta11ahase 30 miles range
⚡️⚡️ now Pleese get one in the hands of The Float Life crew 👀❗️
Hi Tony try set up Adv ,having trouble on IMU Detector has False , IMU type: off, help please
can you see the RT DATA page Avatar moving when you move the board？
contact me on WhatsApp +8615520037010
usually try multiple time to detect you will detect BMI160, if you see your rt data page, the Avatar moves as you move your board, your imu is ok, it's just something wrong with ios software that it takes multiple tries to get it to detect bmi160
RT DATA show no amination board. X,Y,Z all hsa zero
@@snailmail2va That's odd did you upgrade your firmware successful?
Hyperventilating!!! 🎉
Is the hub/motor/controller/battery assembly mountable on a onewheel GT?
Nice video
no
🐻❄)))))))
So wait I'm confused I thought you guys shipped floatwheels weeks ago, when are people getting them?
shipped from China via sea
Someone in the US already got his board (without motor)
Hope so, there's no confirmation on email still. Which order numbers were sent and when? Please update.
We are already in the 1800's that's being sent.
A couple of people received them in the US already. More will follow quickly😁👍
Good to hear, I haven't received order instructions regarding my adv 18XX order number after the deposit... 😢
What do I need to do to order one?.....Where is the link?
Hello
would it be possible to make a new video tutorial with only the vesc configuration part by correcting the error?
THANKS
for people who don't know this type of setting at all, it's really important
THANKS
Do we ever get to see the motor?
You‘re asking to see the motor in the comment section of a video that shows the motor almost throughout the whole video. 🤔
@Eryktion I want to see the motor not the motor inside the hub.
Ah ok
@@chrisc790the video shows the motor obviously - you want to see the stator? I see no good reason for Tony to show it, but I’m sure some of the customers will do a tear down video eventually
H Y P E
It’s sad that Americans can’t watch these videos without a VPN. FM wack for that.
I was beyond excited for this for 8+ months. But after seeing the fixed position of the motor wire with almost no clearance around the tire itself made me feel real uncomfy. Hit one decently sized rock that whips up into the board and you risk dislodging/damaging the most crucial connection that keeps you safe.
I cant imagine the entire wire connection being safe long term even with a heat coupled connection. Its too close to the wheel and with the mileage people do this clearance between the tire is dangerous longterm.
It is impossible, because the fender base extends to the bottom half to isolate the connection from the tyre, plus the cable is locked in place, so there is 0 wiggle rrom for the cable to move around to get loosen, you are just imagining problem out of thin air.
I actually watched a video recently of this exact thing happening. A guy had a rock fire up into the motor cable and it started sparking and everything. Was pretty wild.
Here's video: th-cam.com/video/MDLn9c4fsxY/w-d-xo.html
@@garrymullins maxx removed the mudguard which shouldve shield the rock from getting in. So probably would've been fine if it wasn't removed.
I like how he strips out the screw with electric driver. I don’t recommend using one. Those are for lazy people, and cause damaged hardware.
what exact screw did I strip? you must come from the old ass XR rail which is cheapo and easy to strip, always use power tools Life is too short to use non power tools
Wish I could buy one without using crypto currency. Don't know the first thing about it.
Some of this build quality seems sketchy...gonna need that right to repair. And don't you love the direct knock off of so many OW aftermarket parts.
oh no this will affect the onewheel economy in so many ways 😢
@@auden_builds one company to rule them all
sounds like someone's gonna dial 311 & file a complaint 😄😄
@floatwheel My wheel/board just arrived 🛞🎉. East Coast USA. Assembling this evening!
Can I ask when you made your final payment? I got a "ready to ship" email on May 26, made my final payment on June 7, but I have heard nothing since then. I sent a few emails to Tony but he never answered. I know shipping from China is slow, but I can't help wondering if maybe my money is just going to disappear.
@@user-vs4yg9ji3j I believe my final payment was around 5/5/23. Have faith. It will come. 😊
Please send one to the Floatlife for review. I won't buy one -w- out their testing of it.
Lol one hour tutorial to get it running
What's wrong with that?