Just wanted to thankyou for sharing your knowlage, saved me money that i didnt have and gave me a warm home in montanas cold weather. im a small engine mechanic by trade but propane always scared me. your the man. thanks again
At 44:50, you talk about adding a splice to the wire going to the connector. Do you ever disconnect/release the pin from the connector and make a virgin wire instead of adding a splice? I know . . . more specialized tools need ! WOW - very informative video !!! A must see . . .
You have a broken terminal inside the solenoid. When ever you test something, wiggle the wires/terminals to look for a intermittent connection. These problems can drive you crazy. Nice to learn about these furnaces. I new nothing about them before your videos.
Thank you so much. You really help me to understand the components of the furnace. I have a model that goes to the roof unit which doesn't turn on again until I turn the unit off and hear a click in the A/C. Doesn't give heat fof very long. Very frustrating. You a a great guide.
LOL, Is this why you spend so much time on furnaces up in the Pacific NW, Darren??? Definitely learning off this one as well. Mine is currently in my garage, awaiting a full "physical" before being reinstalled. May not need ours much in Tx but when we do, I want it to start.
My Atwood attempts to start. Occasionally get a whif of gas and even an initial ignition that goes out immediately. Found I'm getting 12v at the board but only getting 8-9v to the gas valve. Ordered a new control board and hoping that's the problem. Haven't found any videos where you found low voltage at the gas valve. Wish me luck.
i've learned a lot from you, Thank you. I have a weird issue, My SF-20 Furnace fan kept shorting. I narrowed it down to the motor however when the motor is disconnected from the squirrel cage it runs fine, the second I attach the squirrel it shorts. Any feed back?
I have a suburban sf30 rv furnace. It comes on normal runs and heats good and shuts off when room is at temp. But it will never come back on when camper gets cold. I have to shut it off and put it back on for it to run. Can you tell me what the problem could be. I'm thinking bad circuit board. Thank You
Hello from Canada. Just seen your video and I love it. I have a question about my suburban SF30 furnace. My furnace runs like it should for about 5 minutes then I can hear it click off for about 30 seconds then relights. So I went ahead and changed out the board,sail switch and high limit switch but nothing has changed. I looked and made sure nothing was being block or stoping the air flow all is clear. What should I do next I’m in dire need of your advice. Thank you in advance.
From our website you can click on parts and gain access to our Amazon store. When you get there sort category by water heater and you will find the solenoids listed there.
No, as long as a tanks/ cylinders are sealed and no oxygen or water or other contaminants gets inside then propane will last indefinitely inside of a tank.
Darren if it's say 100 degrees in the camper and I try my furnace when I turn the thermostat all the way to the right ( on) will the temperature in the air effect it turning on or should the fan come on any temp outside? My fan won't even come on. On a suburban NT-20SE model
Hey there I have a 83 Ford mobile traveler I'm trying to update hot water tank to gas electric it was just gas beforehand so I need to wire it up I got the tank and a control switch
I have the same furnace I can sometimes smell gas when it tries to light and every maybe 5 time your can hear it ignite for about half a second good 12 volts in the red wire but my brown wire the voltage is erratic sometimes 10 sometimes 15 sometimes 25 I’ve even seen I believe 40 for a split second is that a bad board in the furnace ?
Question: would the limiter switch cause the furnace to shut down if the furnace was left without the shroud directing the air through ductwork like normal?
No. The high limit switch would be exposed to cooler temperatures. Restrictions to air flow might cause the high limit to open. Carpet or other objects blocking grilles are a common problem.
For the last year my SF-30 has been leaking the smallest amount of LPG when the furnace is off, it goes away when the furnace runs. When I disconnect the gas supply and cap the line I got no leak. I've bubble tested the pipe connections on the furnaces, no bubbles. Is it possible that the gas valve isn't closing completely?
We diagnosed an LP leak in an RV a few weeks ago. We found the issue to be at the gas valve inside the furnace. So yes, it is highly possible the gas valve has failed.
Butyl/putty tape is what would be used behind the exhaust flange. After that goes on and the flange is installed it is common to run a bead of sealant around the top and sides but not the bottom of that exhaust flange. You do not seal the bottom so that any moisture or water that does get trapped in there has a way to get out.
Yes, I do see an issue with that. As a former engineer, all of those components were designed for a certain amount of BTU. If you start messing around with giving the furnace more heat, you do run the risk of tripping the high temperature switch and/or maybe damaging the heat exchanger. You would be better replacing the furnace with a higher rated BTU furnace instead of trying to modify a lower BTU furnace. Pay particular attention to the installation manuals to make sure you have the proper inflow and outflow for the heat.
On our Amazon store we do have links for the solenoids. I see now that they say they're currently unavailable, but at least from here you can get a part number and search online from other vendors. amzn.to/3GsfIPv
Doesn't the ignitor working prove the sail switch is closing? My understanding is that the ignition cycle won't start if the sail switch doesn't close.
I have a gas oven that won't stay lit. Already replaced the thermo couple. Unique Appliances said the oven thermostat\valve maybe bad. Can I just replace a solenoid as you did or are they made differently? They want $380.00! Thats half the price of the oven which I do NOT recommend!
Hi Bill, our goal is to take folks along on our diagnosis process rather than produce a scripted video. We understand that may not be for everyone, but we do think it is valuable for some!
Hey bill I understand what you're saying but we all need to watch all the faults, cause we'll make the same mistakes in trouble shooting. This I know is long even for me, but we do learn much more in the process.
Love your videos, thought I had a limit switch issue. Upon replacing it fired up and started making heat then just stopped again? Any help would be apreciated.
Fantastic and so detailed. Just like taking an online class.
Just wanted to thankyou for sharing your knowlage, saved me money that i didnt have and gave me a warm home in montanas cold weather. im a small engine mechanic by trade but propane always scared me. your the man. thanks again
At 44:50, you talk about adding a splice to the wire going to the connector. Do you ever disconnect/release the pin from the connector and make a virgin wire instead of adding a splice? I know . . . more specialized tools need ! WOW - very informative video !!! A must see . . .
You have a broken terminal inside the solenoid. When ever you test something, wiggle the wires/terminals to look for a intermittent connection. These problems can drive you crazy. Nice to learn about these furnaces. I new nothing about them before your videos.
Thank you Darren, very detailed troubleshooting and repair.
Excellent presentation. I enjoyed the detective work to find the culprit.
Better than a lot of spy novels I've read!!!! It was great to see the whole troubleshooting process in real time!
Definitely saving this for when/ if this repair becomes necessary (I hope it's Not Soon!) Thank You!
Thank you so much. You really help me to understand the components of the furnace. I have a model that goes to the roof unit which doesn't turn on again until I turn the unit off and hear a click in the A/C. Doesn't give heat fof very long. Very frustrating. You a a great guide.
Great informational video. I've learned a lot from watching your videos. THANK YOU. KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK AND GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY.
Great informational video. Working on my level 2 RV certification. Thanks Don
Good video Darren well explained thanks
Great tech video even us non techs can understand
Very very good video loved it
awesome job i learned alot..time to fix my furnace its getting cold here in montana..
Great VID.DARREN.....
Intermittent gas valve! I'll send a link to this to my brother 3000 miles away who calls me every time his SF35 does something funny. 👍
Good job
Great video, thank you.
LOL, Is this why you spend so much time on furnaces up in the Pacific NW, Darren??? Definitely learning off this one as well. Mine is currently in my garage, awaiting a full "physical" before being reinstalled. May not need ours much in Tx but when we do, I want it to start.
My Atwood attempts to start. Occasionally get a whif of gas and even an initial ignition that goes out immediately. Found I'm getting 12v at the board but only getting 8-9v to the gas valve. Ordered a new control board and hoping that's the problem. Haven't found any videos where you found low voltage at the gas valve. Wish me luck.
i've learned a lot from you, Thank you. I have a weird issue, My SF-20 Furnace fan kept shorting. I narrowed it down to the motor however when the motor is disconnected from the squirrel cage it runs fine, the second I attach the squirrel it shorts. Any feed back?
I have a suburban sf30 rv furnace. It comes on normal runs and heats good and shuts off when room is at temp. But it will never come back on when camper gets cold. I have to shut it off and put it back on for it to run. Can you tell me what the problem could be. I'm thinking bad circuit board. Thank You
Hello from Canada. Just seen your video and I love it. I have a question about my suburban SF30 furnace. My furnace runs like it should for about 5 minutes then I can hear it click off for about 30 seconds then relights. So I went ahead and changed out the board,sail switch and high limit switch but nothing has changed. I looked and made sure nothing was being block or stoping the air flow all is clear. What should I do next I’m in dire need of your advice. Thank you in advance.
Wonderful thanks for the great video!
Does anyone know where to find replacement solenoid coils for Atwood 92078 or 93844 water heater control valve?
From our website you can click on parts and gain access to our Amazon store. When you get there sort category by water heater and you will find the solenoids listed there.
Hello Darren love your videos much informative information and I was wondering does propane go bad while it sits in a tank for a long periods of time
No, as long as a tanks/ cylinders are sealed and no oxygen or water or other contaminants gets inside then propane will last indefinitely inside of a tank.
Darren if it's say 100 degrees in the camper and I try my furnace when I turn the thermostat all the way to the right ( on) will the temperature in the air effect it turning on or should the fan come on any temp outside? My fan won't even come on. On a suburban NT-20SE model
Hey there I have a 83 Ford mobile traveler I'm trying to update hot water tank to gas electric it was just gas beforehand so I need to wire it up I got the tank and a control switch
I have the same furnace I can sometimes smell gas when it tries to light and every maybe 5 time your can hear it ignite for about half a second good 12 volts in the red wire but my brown wire the voltage is erratic sometimes 10 sometimes 15 sometimes 25 I’ve even seen I believe 40 for a split second is that a bad board in the furnace ?
Mine is sf25qt what does the t stand for and is there a wiring diagram for one?
Nice info here .try snapping your finger on current procedure.next the following frame would show completed procedure.
Question: would the limiter switch cause the furnace to shut down if the furnace was left without the shroud directing the air through ductwork like normal?
No. The high limit switch would be exposed to cooler temperatures. Restrictions to air flow might cause the high limit to open. Carpet or other objects blocking grilles are a common problem.
@@stevenscott4096 dang, I actually new the answer to that…..just needed to think what that guy was used for. 🙏
For the last year my SF-30 has been leaking the smallest amount of LPG when the furnace is off, it goes away when the furnace runs. When I disconnect the gas supply and cap the line I got no leak. I've bubble tested the pipe connections on the furnaces, no bubbles. Is it possible that the gas valve isn't closing completely?
We diagnosed an LP leak in an RV a few weeks ago. We found the issue to be at the gas valve inside the furnace. So yes, it is highly possible the gas valve has failed.
Would love to see a video on how to clean out the RV furnace and ducting, especially if rodents have gotten in there.
Should there be sealant on the furnace face plate on the outside of my rv?
Butyl/putty tape is what would be used behind the exhaust flange. After that goes on and the flange is installed it is common to run a bead of sealant around the top and sides but not the bottom of that exhaust flange. You do not seal the bottom so that any moisture or water that does get trapped in there has a way to get out.
Do you see a problem with putting a larger orifix to give more btu output ?
Yes, I do see an issue with that. As a former engineer, all of those components were designed for a certain amount of BTU. If you start messing around with giving the furnace more heat, you do run the risk of tripping the high temperature switch and/or maybe damaging the heat exchanger. You would be better replacing the furnace with a higher rated BTU furnace instead of trying to modify a lower BTU furnace. Pay particular attention to the installation manuals to make sure you have the proper inflow and outflow for the heat.
Thanks for tips
I need new solenoids for my suburban sf-35 furnace would you happen to know the parts number I can't find it anywhere. THANK YOU
On our Amazon store we do have links for the solenoids. I see now that they say they're currently unavailable, but at least from here you can get a part number and search online from other vendors.
amzn.to/3GsfIPv
Doesn't the ignitor working prove the sail switch is closing? My understanding is that the ignition cycle won't start if the sail switch doesn't close.
I was waiting to see how you get to the sail flag, I guess you did not look at it?
I have a gas oven that won't stay lit. Already replaced the thermo couple. Unique Appliances said the oven thermostat\valve maybe bad. Can I just replace a solenoid as you did or are they made differently? They want $380.00!
Thats half the price of the oven which I do NOT recommend!
Gas solenoids can fail?!
Sorry to leave but fumbling to present something is as bad as misinformation. You do know your stuff but planning is key for any presenter.
Hi Bill, our goal is to take folks along on our diagnosis process rather than produce a scripted video. We understand that may not be for everyone, but we do think it is valuable for some!
Hey bill I understand what you're saying but we all need to watch all the faults, cause we'll make the same mistakes in trouble shooting.
This I know is long even for me, but we do learn much more in the process.
Not to mention it’s FREE and honestly, if you went to a school to learn this stuff, it’s guys like this who’d be teaching you…. Excellent video!
Bill it called learning there are no short cuts thanks Darrin
Love your videos, thought I had a limit switch issue. Upon replacing it fired up and started making heat then just stopped again? Any help would be apreciated.