Dana, for defrost mode do you feel the same way for gas backup heat with a CXTQ as you do with strip heat on an FXTQ? Should gas cut on during defrost or is your preference to wait also?
It's a fair question. It comes down to preference. As I mentioned on this video, I set up gas to stay off during defrost, even on my vrv system at my house. Defrost is 6 minutes long, there's no reason to run gas fundamentally for 6 minutes. And on 90 percent plus that just isn't long enough for the gas furnace to run to begin with and short cycling that condesning gas furnace can (but not always) decrease life span of the heat exchanger. If condensate gets trapped inside it then you could have rot out occur sooner. But this just increases the chance of it, it's not guaranteed to be a problem. But for me, no, my gas is programmed to be off all the time, unless heat pump lockout occurs from a system failure then it will come on for emergency heat. This is only my preference. If your heat pump was say too small, you could experience massive performance issues when it's super cold and comfort issues and in that case it may make sense to run gas more often, but that's technically got nothing to do with defrost. So defrost wise it's totally preference.
Dana mode 37 mode 2. The manual says “ for a heater that does not require airflow.”And goes into the ABC jumpers. So how does or way does this setting apply ?
We aren't using any of that. The outdoor unit locking itself out is enough to trigger the air handler's strip heat. The ABC jumpers don't come on all models anymore and are rarely used (only needed when you want the outdoor unit to close a contact and run something else via auxiliary contacts). You can technically select any option within Setting 37 - option 2 is just the easiest/common option I select. You can select 1 if you prefer, or if you think you'll ever use the ABC contacts.
I looked at a dew point calculation chart, so it seems a coil to continue to dehumidify at 50 percent humidity at 70-80 degree ambient it has to be 50 degree f or below. So the whole notion of "cooling to dehumidify" is moot unless the coil is pushed down into the 40's. yet ambient temp goes into the high 60's.. So now it has to go down into the low 40's for the coil temp. So why do they even bother with that feature on the daikin one? It just makes your house cold as Alaska and won't even doing anything for humidity the lower ambient air temp goes. So truly if you want your house to have low humidity in summer, lower then say 60 percent you are going to have to get a whole home dehumidifier. What are your thoughts? I didn't have humidity issues with my traditional air conditioner this issue didn't start until I got the VRV life.
@@InverterAlways On that note, I noticed the VRV software in the daikin one now has "dehumidifier" under add device menu. Do you know is that just Daikin brand or can we use others? I wasn't sure how that worked, so you bring in the 2 wire meant for a external hemostat, and hook it to the daikin one? So the Daikin one would just tell it when to turn on off etc?
Hi Dana, I was wondering if you knew the answer to this. In the VRv Life install manual page 15 and 16 section 11-1, it talks about Three main operation methods, it says setting definition is A=Mode B=Setting and C= setting value. Then it says three main operation modes available: Basic, Automatic and Hi sensible Example (2-8=2) or 2-9=1 etc. yet in the service manual it just says mode 2 setting 8, is Te setting (for Target Te and you can set it from 51.8f to 37.4f or Variable (VRT). Do you understand what 2-8=2 means? If Setting 8 is simply degree F values for Te to setting it to Variable? (So what is 2-8=2?) Is the Te set to "variable" the reason I have so many issues with humidity? The unit runs at 51.8f most of the time in Te which doesn't give a coil cold enough to properly dehumidify? So what if I set setting 8 to 46.4 that means it would no longer run at variable speed but be hard set to always keep Te at 46.4 until it satisfies cooling?
In my opinion you want to leave those settings alone. Vrt works really well and when the system needs to lower that evap target it will. Remember it's not designed to dehumidify only to maintain a sensible target (room temp). Locking in at a lower Te may lower refrigerant temperature and yes possibly help with slight dehum, but not much. And it will increase energy consumption. How much is hard to say in either case. You can try it but I wouldn't think it would make enough of a change.
@@InverterAlways Thanks for the advice on dehumidification. But What about the user manual part? Do you understand what their saying about mode 2 setting 8? Having basic, automatic and hi sensible with that setting 2-8=0 1 2 etc? Install manual mentions that but the service manual simply setting 8 is about having it variable vs a locked in te? What are they saying so in 2-8=2, what is =2?
@@InverterAlways One other thing that is interesting, the service manual says for Tc , factory setting is NOT VRT, but set to 114.8F. And my houses heats in 10 mins from 69-71 when set to 70. But it never hits set temp in summer ( set to 72, hovers at 73 entire day).
@@InverterAlways Instead of touching the Te, I was looking at changing setting 41 from (it says mild comfort mode by default? to Powerful to see if that makes a difference. I know you mentioned before you don't touch these things and default is good, but rather then spending thousands on a whole home dehumidifier thought I would see if one of these settings would help..
@@cranbers yea those settings are your vrt comfort settings. It's how you change it from vrt auto to just basic r410a operation or high sensible Te values. Just which mode do you want the system to use. As mentioned I would recommend keeping it in the default which is vrt auto.
This is fantastic... the last bit of info I need to optimize my system. Thanks mate!
Glad it helped!
Thanks Dana.
Dana, for defrost mode do you feel the same way for gas backup heat with a CXTQ as you do with strip heat on an FXTQ? Should gas cut on during defrost or is your preference to wait also?
It's a fair question. It comes down to preference. As I mentioned on this video, I set up gas to stay off during defrost, even on my vrv system at my house. Defrost is 6 minutes long, there's no reason to run gas fundamentally for 6 minutes. And on 90 percent plus that just isn't long enough for the gas furnace to run to begin with and short cycling that condesning gas furnace can (but not always) decrease life span of the heat exchanger. If condensate gets trapped inside it then you could have rot out occur sooner. But this just increases the chance of it, it's not guaranteed to be a problem. But for me, no, my gas is programmed to be off all the time, unless heat pump lockout occurs from a system failure then it will come on for emergency heat.
This is only my preference. If your heat pump was say too small, you could experience massive performance issues when it's super cold and comfort issues and in that case it may make sense to run gas more often, but that's technically got nothing to do with defrost. So defrost wise it's totally preference.
Dana mode 37 mode 2. The manual says “ for a heater that does not require airflow.”And goes into the ABC jumpers. So how does or way does this setting apply ?
We aren't using any of that. The outdoor unit locking itself out is enough to trigger the air handler's strip heat. The ABC jumpers don't come on all models anymore and are rarely used (only needed when you want the outdoor unit to close a contact and run something else via auxiliary contacts). You can technically select any option within Setting 37 - option 2 is just the easiest/common option I select. You can select 1 if you prefer, or if you think you'll ever use the ABC contacts.
I looked at a dew point calculation chart, so it seems a coil to continue to dehumidify at 50 percent humidity at 70-80 degree ambient it has to be 50 degree f or below. So the whole notion of "cooling to dehumidify" is moot unless the coil is pushed down into the 40's. yet ambient temp goes into the high 60's.. So now it has to go down into the low 40's for the coil temp. So why do they even bother with that feature on the daikin one? It just makes your house cold as Alaska and won't even doing anything for humidity the lower ambient air temp goes. So truly if you want your house to have low humidity in summer, lower then say 60 percent you are going to have to get a whole home dehumidifier. What are your thoughts? I didn't have humidity issues with my traditional air conditioner this issue didn't start until I got the VRV life.
Agreed. You need a dehumidifier that's designed to pull moisture out of your home. The daikin systems are not designed to carry that load.
@@InverterAlways On that note, I noticed the VRV software in the daikin one now has "dehumidifier" under add device menu. Do you know is that just Daikin brand or can we use others? I wasn't sure how that worked, so you bring in the 2 wire meant for a external hemostat, and hook it to the daikin one? So the Daikin one would just tell it when to turn on off etc?
Where I find the list of settings to outdoor unit?
Service manual for the outdoor unit.
Hi Dana, I was wondering if you knew the answer to this. In the VRv Life install manual page 15 and 16 section 11-1, it talks about Three main operation methods, it says setting definition is A=Mode B=Setting and C= setting value. Then it says three main operation modes available: Basic, Automatic and Hi sensible Example (2-8=2) or 2-9=1 etc. yet in the service manual it just says mode 2 setting 8, is Te setting (for Target Te and you can set it from 51.8f to 37.4f or Variable (VRT). Do you understand what 2-8=2 means? If Setting 8 is simply degree F values for Te to setting it to Variable? (So what is 2-8=2?)
Is the Te set to "variable" the reason I have so many issues with humidity? The unit runs at 51.8f most of the time in Te which doesn't give a coil cold enough to properly dehumidify? So what if I set setting 8 to 46.4 that means it would no longer run at variable speed but be hard set to always keep Te at 46.4 until it satisfies cooling?
In my opinion you want to leave those settings alone. Vrt works really well and when the system needs to lower that evap target it will. Remember it's not designed to dehumidify only to maintain a sensible target (room temp). Locking in at a lower Te may lower refrigerant temperature and yes possibly help with slight dehum, but not much. And it will increase energy consumption. How much is hard to say in either case. You can try it but I wouldn't think it would make enough of a change.
@@InverterAlways Thanks for the advice on dehumidification. But What about the user manual part? Do you understand what their saying about mode 2 setting 8? Having basic, automatic and hi sensible with that setting 2-8=0 1 2 etc? Install manual mentions that but the service manual simply setting 8 is about having it variable vs a locked in te? What are they saying so in 2-8=2, what is =2?
@@InverterAlways One other thing that is interesting, the service manual says for Tc , factory setting is NOT VRT, but set to 114.8F. And my houses heats in 10 mins from 69-71 when set to 70. But it never hits set temp in summer ( set to 72, hovers at 73 entire day).
@@InverterAlways Instead of touching the Te, I was looking at changing setting 41 from (it says mild comfort mode by default? to Powerful to see if that makes a difference. I know you mentioned before you don't touch these things and default is good, but rather then spending thousands on a whole home dehumidifier thought I would see if one of these settings would help..
@@cranbers yea those settings are your vrt comfort settings. It's how you change it from vrt auto to just basic r410a operation or high sensible Te values. Just which mode do you want the system to use. As mentioned I would recommend keeping it in the default which is vrt auto.
Cheers
you as well