Good to see that your number of subs is moving. Your content is by far the best allround technical information on TH-cam. The editing is really Nice-keep up the good work👏👏.
I have the original Dunlop TT 100s for my 1971 Triumph Trident. They are fine. 50+ years old. Like anything really, care and maintenance is all it takes. That said I also have them put away and ride with salt worthy Illinois weather sacrifice set. Also TT100s,
hi Sabi, the R1100RT came apart when I did the clutch and throw-out bearing. Those videos are on my channel as well as the spline lubrication and so on. Thanks for the feedback & view!
Thanks for the view & feedback. I was surprised how many people out there were saying that tires expire... Especially from the channels created by online retailers. Hmmm....
Good stuff! Thanks Rod. My F900XR is telling me it is time to clean the front calipers. Continuous brake pad dragging sound on front rotor when I move it around the garage.
like two years ago i got a angel st made in europe from 2010 with the world record sticker too, old tire worked great. thats just squareing off a tire you can ride around it by flicking the bike down past it, or running dramatically high tire pressure like 40/42 makes it less noticeable too if not recomended. I normay dont have that problem but my bikes that are exclusively for the canyons the fronts turn to triangles from trailbrakeing. same technique to ride around it but a little more concerning cause you have to go a little further. cuping on a tire is a wiered suspension/pressure issue where the leading or training edge of the tread is dramiticly raised makes each tread block look like a cup. you can experimentally find the perfect chain tension with a ratchet strap straping up the rear wheel so the rear axle the pivot bolt and output shaft are all in a line (the max tension) then just adjust it for a little bit of slack then just let it down.
Love the content. Helps me with rebuilding a crashed st1300 and I love the bike! I want it back to it's designed ride condition but sadly at the moment she's far from it😔 got her in a sad state but I'm trying to breathe life back into her. Only problem I can't figure out is when I accelerate hard in 1st 2nd and sometimes in 3rd, it stalls and I HAVE to switch off the ignition to restart it otherwise it will just turn over if I hit the start button... Any ideas? Thanks for all the help and info man!
If you cycle the key off and on after the stall as apposed to the engine kill switch (or vise versa) does it make a difference? If not I would start at the wiring harness, a lot of issues can result from a corroded ground cable. You may not be able to see the corrosion but if you cut the cable open it will be green with oxidation. Check the battery cables on both ends both positive and negative since this is a condition that can be duplicated by a loose battery cable. If the bike feels/smells (no gas) like it is being fuel starved, I would check the fuel flow back in the garage against the factory manual stat as you may need a new pump or maybe just a new filter. I would then check all the wiring connectors, pull the fairing and go through all the harness from the switch housings to the ECM, pay special attention to the fuel pump. Pull apart the connectors, inspect them for corrosion, clean up with WD40 & conductive grease. If still no joy, remove the airbox and check the connections under it, wring can get crispy under there. Run the harness and look for wear through the loom and wiring causing a short, but without FI Codes I would think the problem is relegated to the ignition itself, key switch, right handlebar switch or the fuel delivery, pump and filter. You have taken the right handlebar switch apart and cleaned it with WD40 already, right? Here is why this is so important th-cam.com/video/W0MTZbtMgOw/w-d-xo.html - Good Luck!
@@RodRidesWrenches while riding when I try to hard accelerate it dies then clutch in and I flip the kill switch off then on again and it starts. I'll admit I haven't pulled apart the air box or the fuel pump as I do ride it regularly as a daily rider and take it on long rides. I did have to go through the wiring harness to get it to run but not quite as thoroughly as you described. I get decent acceleration I just can't hard accelerate in 1st 2nd and the beginning of 3rd. I'm out of town for a month but I'll pull the air box and fuel pump when I get home. Right now she is without all the front fairings and I use my phone as a speedo since I can't mount the gauge cluster. I'll report what I find if anything... Thanks for the help.
Keep a maintenance log in Excel. Helps a ton, especially if you have more than one bike.
Good to see that your number of subs is moving. Your content is by far the best allround technical information on TH-cam. The editing is really Nice-keep up the good work👏👏.
Thanks again Bjorn! 🏍
I have the original Dunlop TT 100s for my 1971 Triumph Trident. They are fine. 50+ years old. Like anything really, care and maintenance is all it takes. That said I also have them put away and ride with salt worthy Illinois weather sacrifice set. Also TT100s,
Just found your channel. Quality of content evident right away. Subscribed. Please keep it up.
Thanks for the feedback & SUB! More in the editing stage right now.🎥👍
Thank you so much!!! LOVE the channel, you are the man!!
Thanks for the kind words & view!
Great overview with just the right amount of detail. Just wish it was the r1100rt
hi Sabi, the R1100RT came apart when I did the clutch and throw-out bearing. Those videos are on my channel as well as the spline lubrication and so on. Thanks for the feedback & view!
No tire expiry date in the UK. Sound pre-season advice, thx.
Thanks for the view & feedback. I was surprised how many people out there were saying that tires expire... Especially from the channels created by online retailers. Hmmm....
There is a date limit, it will fail an mot after 8 years old am sure it’s 8 years now, never used to be a legal expiry date….
Thanks Rod!
Thanks for the feedback & view!
Good stuff! Thanks Rod.
My F900XR is telling me it is time to clean the front calipers. Continuous brake pad dragging sound on front rotor when I move it around the garage.
Yep that's the sound of reduced fuel economy and excess brake wear. th-cam.com/video/MdH_CwkE-nc/w-d-xo.html Thanks for the view & feedback!
What a great video. Thanks so much.
Thanks for the view & feedback, I have a new video out Saturday, hope you will check it out! 🏍
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it! New video out this Saturday!
Excellent video! I'll need to perform a few checkups on my bike in the near future, and this information will be extremely helpful.
Thanks for the feedback and view! New video out this Saturday
Amazing video
Thanks for the view & feedback, I have a new video out Saturday, hope you will check it out! 🏁
Great looking vfr! Great video! Can i ask what wind shield is installed?
Checkout this ebay link, this is the one on the bike. ebay.us/IewCWG
like two years ago i got a angel st made in europe from 2010 with the world record sticker too, old tire worked great. thats just squareing off a tire you can ride around it by flicking the bike down past it, or running dramatically high tire pressure like 40/42 makes it less noticeable too if not recomended. I normay dont have that problem but my bikes that are exclusively for the canyons the fronts turn to triangles from trailbrakeing. same technique to ride around it but a little more concerning cause you have to go a little further. cuping on a tire is a wiered suspension/pressure issue where the leading or training edge of the tread is dramiticly raised makes each tread block look like a cup.
you can experimentally find the perfect chain tension with a ratchet strap straping up the rear wheel so the rear axle the pivot bolt and output shaft are all in a line (the max tension) then just adjust it for a little bit of slack then just let it down.
Love the content. Helps me with rebuilding a crashed st1300 and I love the bike! I want it back to it's designed ride condition but sadly at the moment she's far from it😔 got her in a sad state but I'm trying to breathe life back into her. Only problem I can't figure out is when I accelerate hard in 1st 2nd and sometimes in 3rd, it stalls and I HAVE to switch off the ignition to restart it otherwise it will just turn over if I hit the start button... Any ideas? Thanks for all the help and info man!
If you cycle the key off and on after the stall as apposed to the engine kill switch (or vise versa) does it make a difference? If not I would start at the wiring harness, a lot of issues can result from a corroded ground cable. You may not be able to see the corrosion but if you cut the cable open it will be green with oxidation. Check the battery cables on both ends both positive and negative since this is a condition that can be duplicated by a loose battery cable. If the bike feels/smells (no gas) like it is being fuel starved, I would check the fuel flow back in the garage against the factory manual stat as you may need a new pump or maybe just a new filter. I would then check all the wiring connectors, pull the fairing and go through all the harness from the switch housings to the ECM, pay special attention to the fuel pump. Pull apart the connectors, inspect them for corrosion, clean up with WD40 & conductive grease. If still no joy, remove the airbox and check the connections under it, wring can get crispy under there. Run the harness and look for wear through the loom and wiring causing a short, but without FI Codes I would think the problem is relegated to the ignition itself, key switch, right handlebar switch or the fuel delivery, pump and filter. You have taken the right handlebar switch apart and cleaned it with WD40 already, right? Here is why this is so important th-cam.com/video/W0MTZbtMgOw/w-d-xo.html - Good Luck!
@@RodRidesWrenches while riding when I try to hard accelerate it dies then clutch in and I flip the kill switch off then on again and it starts. I'll admit I haven't pulled apart the air box or the fuel pump as I do ride it regularly as a daily rider and take it on long rides. I did have to go through the wiring harness to get it to run but not quite as thoroughly as you described. I get decent acceleration I just can't hard accelerate in 1st 2nd and the beginning of 3rd. I'm out of town for a month but I'll pull the air box and fuel pump when I get home. Right now she is without all the front fairings and I use my phone as a speedo since I can't mount the gauge cluster. I'll report what I find if anything... Thanks for the help.
Great video. I just subscribed.