One of the best how-to videos I ever watched. I followed every step, using the same brands. The 5 steps are time consuming (overnight waits between many steps) and took a lot of work, but the results were really good. Take the time and put in the elbow grease to REMOVE the surface rust before you apply the kleenstrip. I went through multiple wire wheels. Totally worth it. What an improvement. Thanks a lot.
Glad to hear it worked out for you. it's always better to do the extra work up front, and not have to redo it in a couple of years. Thanks for watching!
@@deerparkhomeshop2471so this is a 4 visit job correct? First to clean and strip and apply acid agent, second to clean that and prime, third is first coat paint, fourth is second coat paint? Can any of these steps be combined in one day? Like first and second coat of paint? Or primer and first coat of paint? Or is it 4 days no matter what
@@mattcoombs2697 If you are wanting to rush things, you could use a "direct to metal" rust paint. Supposedly, you can cut the primer step by doing this and also the acid step, if you believe the advertising. I plan to do research this and probably do another video in the spring on this process. I have rusty iron railings around my porch that need to be done.
Excellent! Just the right level of detail. Answered all of my questions as I prepare to paint my first metal fence... Very effective & interesting presentation style.
Gosh, thank you! I never knew about "ruster converter" and how important it might be. Better a longer, more detailed job that will last a decade, than a quick spray that will be a problem in a year or two. You have persuaded us to do it your way.
Great info in a well presented video. No wasted time and all great advice. I get what I need to do as well as the specific items I need to buy. Huge help on my end. It’s always good to see someone actually doing what they are teaching. So many on TH-cam are teaching skills they studied, but are not very experienced at. I got all I need to see if each step lines up with your examples.
Thanks for your comments! And believe me, with 100 ft. of metal fence, if you're not experienced when you start one end, you sure will be when you reach the other!
This is one of the best organized, best presented DIY videos I've ever seen. Thanks for giving us so much information, without any wasted time. One suggestion - a mechanic's mirror on a stick, about $1 at dollar-type stores and about $5 at car parts and big box stores, would help you easily check for places you might have missed. One question - would a small, air-powered needle scaler help to quickly get rid of the rust in hard to get to areas? Thanks again for this truly excellent video.
Thank you for those kind words. When I make this videos I always wonder if I'm on target with my viewers, so your kind comments are reassuring. Great idea about the mirrir and I haven't tried a needle scaler, but I think I'm going to try that out. Thanks for the suggestions.
Very informative, I started this job today going in blind not sure where to start, so just started chipping away paint and sanding. I will definely be following your 5 step method. I need to make a run to home depot 🏃♀️ Thanks 😊
Thank you! Going to use your process. We have a short run of 100+ year old wrought iron. 4 panels, 1 gate, that is anchored to our wood fence on either side. You are great instructor. Joci
I love this video! Very good info and entertainment watching you soak passing cars and spraying that converter above the bushes. This is totally how I work best...tunnel visioned. I recently pressure washed the paint off of my front porch and didn't even think about the storm door being cracked open to run the power cord. I soaked the entire entry way of my house and had water pouring from the floor joists into the basement. But, dammit, that porch paint got stripped!
Believe it or not, it didn't hurt the bushes and no one stopped to complain about paint or water on their cars, so I guess I did OK. If I waited until there was no traffic on this street I'd have my wife out holding a flashlight for me to work by at 2:00 am. But then I could soak those guys that wake me up at night with their loud music. There's an upside to every situation. I'm glad you enjoyed the video and thanks a bunch for watching.
Just finished cleaning the rust off my bakers rack using Navel Jelly, going to paint it tomorrow . I didn't use rust converter although I am familiar with the product. Fingers crossed I don't regret skipping that step . Thanks for the very detailed and informative video.
Both naval jelly and rust convertor or similar and both have an acid base to kill the rust, so it should work. Rust convertor is just more cost effective for big jobs. Thanks for watching my video.
About to work on a rusty porch railing and this was very helpful. I did see that the rust converter can pit concrete per the bottle information so I will put cardboard down for that step also. Thanks for all your help.
Thanks for reaching out to me. The cardboard is a good idea. Drop cloths or tarps work well, but I have saved a few large boxes , and they slip under the fence rails easier and are lees affected by the wind.
Great vid! I have a wrought iron porch and patio covering that needs a little attention. Think my Mom last tackled it in the late 80's. Since Mom has passed and I moved back into the home 4 years ago this has been on my to do list. Picked up a set of stiff bristles for drill from eBay. Thank you for that. Also will get the other items you used as your project turned out so perfectly! Thanks again!!
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 I'm in Pennsylvania and those brutal winters really take their toll on our properties. I did the chain link fences last year. They came out really nice. Did em flat black! And I know that Texas heat you're in really wreaks havock on metal and concrete. I have a cousin outside Fort Worth. 👍
@@thomasfisher1732 Yes, we live in coastal Texas and our high humidity encourages rust. Haven't been to Pennsylvania yet, but we are planning a fall trip in a couple of years to experience the autumn colors and to see all of the historical sites. Thanks for watching!
You'll ❤️ rural PA. I'm in the heart of the Pocono Mtns. 4 seasons, great state parks nearby, skiing, snowmobiling, ATV riding and plenty of outdoor fun! And historical sites to see. From Revolutionary War battlefields to Independence Hall!! You'll be happy with your visit!!
@@thomasfisher1732 we're looking forward to it. Probably stay in an airbnb in the boonies for a few days and we do want to see Independence Hall. We also want to go to coastal Maine on the same trip.
Thanks for the video, very informative. I'm in Scotland so the climate is very wet compared to Texas but hopefully the same principles will apply, but I won't be as confident as you are about getting 15 years out of the job!
Great to hear from Scotland! I think the principles will be pretty much the same. You folks also get a lot of snow and ice don't you? Our problem is relentless sunshine and extreme heat in a Texas summers.
In the video, starting at the 5:20 mark, I used the thinner to remove the white chalky residue created by the rust convertor. This was a brief segment. I showed this method, but my preferred, and much quicker method, is to use a pressure washer to take it off, which I showed next. Of course, not every one has a pressure washer.
Very nice information-dense video, didn't expect to sit through the whole thing. Thanks for making it. Hopefully my fence would be as slick and durable as yours!
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 Nah, you've done well! I think you've got the point across quite quickly early on and you showed the actual work without stretching it for too long. I think your style of presentation wasn't too stiff and the montages of you doing something to the fence were not taking up too much time as well. Keep up the good work!
This is probably the best video I have seen on the topic. You have inspired me to to tackle a couple of badly rusted railings. Fotunately I just successfully rebuilt the Briggs engine on my pressure washer.
This is the hardest thing I've ever done. My home is surrounded by metal fences and gates. I let it go for a couple of years, and now I'm paying the price! I'm using your video step by step. Thank you! You're in Texas, I'm on the AL. gulf coast so the constant popup showers have been a real problem.
I spent over a week just painting about 60' of fence. Sounds like you have a whole lot more than me, so I feel your pain. Enjoy those pop up showers though. We are having a drought here. I'm having to water my lawn every week and my water bill has doubled.
If you can find Hammerite, an English paint, somewhere, buy it and try it out. The English use it to paint their stately metal fences in their very damp climate. It is very hard, but not impossible, to find in America. I bought some cans from Amazon a couple of years ago. The basic steps are the same as shown here, but the Hammerite top coat lasts for quite a while. (Hammerite may have been bought a couple of years ago by the owners of Rustoleum, but the high VOC content of the original formula is what makes it work.)
Currently working on one of 4 ornate custom made iron gates. They had 3 or 4 layers of paint from the past, house was built in '76. Did a complete strip with wire wheels (ouch) didn't have but a tiny bit of rust, Rust-o gray primer, brush paint. Rollers haven't been good with the detailed pieces, which is most of the gate,
Thanks for the great tips! I’m planning how to approach restoring an old family grave and this will help plan how to restore the metal fencing around it. ~ Amber
I Been Painting for 27 yrs. And them spray paint can. Was great. It takes forever to brush those Circles. And points. I will uses that technique. I just learned from you. I will also use it on the locking and the gate Hinges.. i paint a fence just like that. Monday. I was going to try out a painter Glove.. I hear they work pretty good.. Faster using them on poles of pipe. You should make a Video painting with one of them. If you do give me a shout out. Londo. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed the video. Like you, I find the circles difficult to deal with and trying to get into the tight places around them eats up my brushes. I haven't tried the Glove yet, but it sounds like, with your experience, you should be the one making the video.
You should also wear a RESPIRATOR with vapor filter for the OSPHO (or phosphoric acid-containing products). And an N95 mask for the rust removal. I used a sandblasting attachment ($30 on Amazon) for my pressure washer to clean off my wrought iron furniture and steel mesh yard cart/wagon. It's messy, but cleans rust and paint off steel QUICK.
Does it remove enough rust and corrosion so that you don't need to use the wire brush or grinder? I think I found the one you're referring to on Amazon. Apparently it just uses regular dry sand, like play sand maybe?
This video is VERY informative! Thank you so much for sharing this! Our gate is small compared to yours, so I'm hoping to get it done in one weekend before HOA has a COW! LOL j/k
Thanks for taking the time to make and post this video. All great information, well presented! One question. I'm getting ready to tackle my fence. Have you ever considered using an old sock or rag to apply the paint? Like you say, painting the details will be time consuming and tedious. Using a sock or rag may speed up the process just don't know how it will look.
Yes it will. The sock works pretty well, although it makes for a thinner coat and I tend to make a mess when I do it. I seen others do it with good success though.
I did about 60 feet of fence, and it took a little over two weeks, but remember, I was filming a video at as I painted, so set up, takes, retakes, and etc. caused it to take a lot longer than it normally would. Thanks for watching!
Hi Mike, As pretty much everyone else has written, you've done a very nice job of giving us the important information, without extraneous commentary. I really appreciate your succinct thoroughness. I'm going to be painting a customer's metal fence. Most of it is in good shape, though the last paint was applied about fifteen years ago. My question has to do with the gate hinges. There's a bit of rust seeping out from between parts that hold the pin. I can't pull the pin out as I do with a normal door; that would enable me to get to the rust source. Nor do I want to get paint inside the joints. So, any suggestions about how I can handle this situation?
Thank you for the kind words! Can't hear them enough. You might try saturating the hinges with the rust inhibitor. You could use something like a glue syringe to inject it into the joints. If it needs it, follow up with WD40. Just make sure you clean all the residue off the outer parts before painting.
Thanks for the thorough video. I have my mom n dad’s old rusty glider seat to restore so I have been searching TH-cam videos, some of the glider frame areas are almost rusted through. Do you have a video tutorial on how to reinforce weak areas of rusty metal? Years ago as a teen, I had an old car that had rusted out areas and was successful in repairing it. It’s been a few decades so hopefully the process has improved.
Unfortunately, I don't have a video and would have to research it. I would think that the glider frame, since it is load bearing, may need to be welded after cleaning & prep. the metal. But I certainly no expert on that and I can't see your situation. Sorry I can't be more help.
Thank you! I wish I had seen your video last year when I painted my 1950s iron patio furniture: 2 tables, 10 chairs, a couch, and an end table. It’s been a year. Although I thought I got the rust off, and I used the Rustoleum rust-converter primer, I have rust coming through. The kicker is now Rustoleum has discontinued their light turquoise color Stops Rust enamel. I think I am going to have to get a couple cans of the brush-on Stops Rust enamel and try to mix colors to match it. What a pain in the neck! Do you think your process can be used on touch-ups?
Is the rust just coming through in a few isolated spots or do you have a much bigger problem? It sound's like your rest convertor was actually in the primer and not a seperate product like I used, and I haven't used their "Stops Rust" product. I used the Professional primer and enamel, but your's should be a good product. My thinking is to just try to touch it up, but if it comes back, you'll probably need to take it back to bare metal.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 I messed up. I just paint my wall before I find this video. Haha. Q 1. My gate got some holes here and there. How do I fix it? Do I need to weld it back? Q 2. How deep should I scrape using the wire brush. Is it just a scratch on the rusty part or until the rust is gone? Q 3. It's my first time having a drill. Usually I find the hardware store sell those wire brushes. Just wire brushes. What is the thingy that connects the drill and the wire brushes? Sorry for so many questions
@@DashmundHunt It sounds like you are making a bold stem into the world of D I Y. Q 1: How big are these holes? You may be able to grind & use a rasp to remove the rust. Then pack the hole with synthetic steel wool and Bondo over it. Sand it smooth and repaint. Don't pack the hole too tight or there won't be room for enough filler to make a good repair. Q2: It's hard to remove all of the rust. you really just want to remove as much as you can and then use the rust inhibitor. It will kill the remainder. Q3: The wire brushes I used had a shaft that would simply chuck up in the drill. If yours have a hole in the middle, there should be a mandrel that will fit them. If they sold this type at the hardware store, they should also have the mandrel.
5/14/24 Watched your video, and it was great. I have a few questions. Notice u just used a Wire brush and a wire brush set attached to your electric drill to remove the rust plus u used your grinder on heavily pitted areas then used your rust converter. Questions - 1) Did you not find it necessary to use any sandpaper? Does the above method take care of all the rust? 2)So use the brush etc. mentioned above to remove as much rust as possible and just on the heavily pitted areas you use your grinder. U states:" On heavily pitted areas I used my grinder. Not only did it remove the rust but it gave me a nice smooth area to paint over" 3)Did the grinder remove the rust all the way to the bare metal? 4)Should u try to remove all the rust to the bare metal where it is really bad? Ie pitted areas 5)If u remove the rust to the bare metal do u need to apply your rust converter over that? 6)I noticed u used Rustoleum Paint and primer. Have u ever thought about using Sherwin Williams DTM PAINT? You don’t have to use a primer? 7)I have used it in the past and was just going to prime my rusted spots and paint the rest with Sherwin Williams DTM PAINT? 8)I also already bought some Krud Kuter-The Must for Rust, have u ever used this product? 9)Why did use Kleenstrip 1 gal. rust converter? Thank u ,Donna
Lots of questions. I'll do my best to answer them. If you prefer to use sandpaper, you can. But whether you use sandpaper, grinder, or etc., it's optimistic to assume that you can remove absolutely all of the rust. That's why you use the converter. It will neutralize any rust you miss. The Krud Kuter-the Must should work fine. As a matter of fact, Krud-Kuter is a Rustoleum company. I use the grinder because it is fast, and I use it because I don't like the look of all that rust build up under the paint, although the proper use of the converter would have penetrated the build up and killed the rust. The Rustoleum paint I used is an oil based DTM paint. The label says that you can paint it directly over metal, but they go on to say that use of a primer will give longer lasting protection. I have not tried the Sherman Williams DTM product so it would be irresponsible to recommend it. What I have seen is acrylic. Not sure that I want to use a water based product for this application. However this is a company that makes high quality products. Search for "direct to metal acrylic paint" on youtube. There are a number of videos there that might help you decide. Hope this helps, and reach out to me again if you have anymore questions.
Thank u for responding so quickly. Few more questions. 1)Does using the wire brush attached to the drill do a better job at removing the rust vs using the manual brush? Or will the wire brush attached to the drill make it easier and faster to use? My Sherwin-Williams paint is called Direct-to-Metal Alkyd Enamel,it is not DTM acrylic. I asked the store and they said it is oil-based. 2)Can I just prime my rusted spots after they are treated with Krud Kuter-The Must for Rust and then put 2 coats of my DTM over my entire fence versus applying an entire coat of primer and then an entire coat of DTM. I was told the DTM essentially has a primer in it. 3)Have u ever tried applying the paint with a small sock on a fence like u have compared to a roller /paintbrush. I have seen people do it on u tube. Wondering how it looks, does it look as nice as using a roller. Do u think it is quicker to use a sock? Thank you .Donna
@@donnab5657 1. It is mainly much faster and easier. You can do a good job with the hand held, but you will get weary and will be tempted to cut corners. 2. The idea of the DTM paints is that you don't have to prime at all. If you clean and wire brush it good, and then use the Must for Rust you can paint directly over it. It does have primer and a rust inhibitor built in. Just read the instructions carefully and make sure there are not special circumstances. One I looked at said direct for bare metal, but to prime over oil or alkyd painted surfaces. 3. There's nothing wrong with the sock method. It just takes a bit of practice to get the hang of it, and some of the youtubers have mastered it. It tends to be sloppier. Be sure to put down a protective tarp or cardboard because it tends to cause paint runs and drips as you wipe it on. You'll still need a brush for scroll work, corners, and tight spots. FYI. I will be painting a wrought iron railing this summer using the DTM paint, so watch for my video.
Thank you for your detailed video. I’ve watched it twice. I’m about to do my pool fence. My fence needs minimal touch up and only slight rust in certain areas. Do I still need a primer?
To me the primer is just insurance and what I've always done. I'm old school. Even the Rustoleum paint I used can be applied directly over reasonably rust free metals. Of course, in the small print the label says "for even better results use Stops Rust Primer". There are paints out there that are specifically formulated for direct to metal use, so you may consider one of those. I can't recommend one yet because I haven't tried them. However, I hope to use this method in an upcoming video. Thanks for your comment.
Thank you for this information. It is very helpful. One of the guys who painted my house is asking for $500 to paint the big metal gate. I was wondering if that’s a fair price. Not sure if materials is included.
Thank you. I like to use gloss on metal because it seems more durable and easy to clean. It is shiny, but its certainly not going to blind drivers coming down the road on a sunny day. Semigloss would definitely be great if you can find it in the gallon can, even it its a metal paint from another quality brand. Thanks for watching.
Two questions. Will this process work with rusty wrought iron furniture? What psi pressure washer would you use with wrought iron furniture? Great video...thank you.
Yes, it should. Because it's furniture and appearance is more important, you probably will want to put in some extra effort to remove in pitting or built up scale before you use the rust converter. Thanks for watching the video.
I painted about 70 ft. of fence and it took over two weeks, mainly because when you make a video it really slows things down with takes, retakes, and etc. Thank you for watching!
Yes. Same steps. Clean it good, use the rust converter, prime, and the oil based top coat. Since it's indoors, you could be tempted to use flat top coat. But if it's a railing that people will actually put their hands on, I would go with semi gloss or gloss paint for durability. Thanks for watching.
great video. I am doing some volunteer work on a fence just like yours. I hate the circles, lol. But I appreciate you sharing your experience. I am using most of the products you mentioned. I used a different paint to finish my first section. It applied horribly. I am sticking to the rustoleum products as well going forward. The spray on primer, for rusty surfaces, really did a fantastic job. Do you have any suggestions for repairing deeply pitted sections. I used some grout that I am about to go back and check on its result. The fence is in pretty rough shape in some areas.
Bondo or an epoxy based filler should work pretty well on the pitted areas if your grout doesn't work. Anything's ok that will fill the depressions and allow you to sand it smooth and paint over with your enamel.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 it presented the steps in a very logical and chronological way without being a direct 'step by step' video. I like how you considered the logical ways to go about it, vs the impractical ways.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 also it was edited well. The whole was very clear and direct without unnecessary transitions or edits. It really felt like one continuous shot, but without unnecessary footage. Very minimal transitions and editing may not get you views but it makes a very helpful video.
Thank you so much for the kind words. I spend a lot more time time editing and putting a video like this together than I do filming. The goal is always to have the kind or results you are talking about. Thanks for taking the time to watch my video!@@andrewknudson7712
Great video. Your attention to detail is as commendable as it is informative. That fence doesn't look repainted, it looks brand new. (Respect). Out of curiosity, If money and time didn't matter, what products and methods would you use to make that fence as durable as possible. Maybe some industrial 2 part epoxy or something.
Thank you for the kind words! I used the Rustoleum because I have had such good luck with it over the years and I really didn't consider the epoxy. I would like to try it though on a smaller project which might be a future video. There is also a one part epoxy paint on the market now that I would like to find out more about.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 Nothing beats Rustoleum when it comes to value for money. After a little research....yeah, if money is no object, there's some industrial coatings that would be complete overkill. Although I don't think your fence is going to be submerged in salt water. haha A DM Epoxy would look great, but it's going to cost 2 or 3 times as much.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 Nothing about your work is cheap. I know painters who would roll on another coat of paint with little/no prep work. You go the extra mile. Again, respect. :-)
Excellent video, very useful. I'm in the middle of very laboriously restoring an old cast iron bench and needed a few expert tips on the optimal processes to follow. At he moment it's all about stripping off the multiple layers of paint the iron frame has accumulated over the years. I was wondering if I'd need to use a rust converter before applying the primer, and you've convinced me that it's not a step I can afford to skip. One question - would you recommend the use of red oxide primer once the rust has been sorted out?
I always use a primer before top coating. It just provides a good surface for the enamel to adhere to, and if you miss a tiny spot or two with your finish coat, it should prevent rust from coming through. It may not be absolutely necessary, but I've been doing it this way a long time and I've had good results. Appreciate you watching my video!
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 I completely agree, the primer is vital, I just wasn't sure of the best sort of primer to use. Since it's iron, I'd read that red oxide primer was best, but I'm not sure!
I agree. I always use the red but that's what I was taught earlier in life. The other "rusty metal" primers may work just fine but why change now? @@walkourwoofers853
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 Thanks for taking the time to offer your help and advice. Lots of hard work still to go, but I'm feeling more confident I'll get there now!
It's a matter of personal taste really, but I would opt for a satin or semi gloss paint over the flat, just because it will probably weather better over time. Mine is glossy and I'm really happy with it.
Thank you for this video! great thorough information. I have some metal patio chairs that have a bit of surface rust at the seams on the back part of the chairs and at the bottom of the feet. With heavy rains, I get rusty water drainage. I plan on following the steps in the video. Any suggestions for how to prevent or what to use to prevent the potential for rusty water drainage and surface rust? Would you use a clear rustoleum sealant after the top coat has dried thoroughly or cured? Would you use the rust converter step? Thanks so much!
If you just have a bit of light surface rust you can wire brush it good, clean it off with some turp, and use the rust primer and enamel top coat. However if you have pitted rust, and that may well be the case in a seam, I would recommend the converter. The best thing for the drainage is to make sure you get a really good coat of paint in those areas. I haven't used the clear sealer, and I wouldn't consider that unless I was going to top coat with a flat paint. If you are using the rustoleum type gloss enamel top coat, that would do the trick. Two coats of the top coat should last for a long, long time. Hope this answers your question.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 Thanks so much for answering my questions. Could I use a rustoleum satin gloss finish enamel top coat, applying 2 coats for the best results? Trying our best to be able to keep these chairs for a while. Thanks!
Hi guys, i need advice from an expert. I am doing a big job at my house painting mild steel gates amd railings. I am going to use 2 in 1 acrylic spray can paint as a primer. This is suitable to get in between the cracks on the gates/railings. My preference is to top coat with enamel resin lacquer paint. Will the enamel paint be ok to go on top of the acrylic 2 in 1?
The general rule of thumb is that you can use oil base over acrylic, but not the other way around. I use oil base rust primers over steel and don't have much experience with the acrylic primers.
Any advice on treating the screws/bolts for the fence where it's connected to your brick columns? Did you replace the bolts maybe? And thanks for the great video!!
I think I mentioned in the video that I am not a good spray painter. I generally brush, pad, or use a roller, even when I do it for other people. I know that contractor's spray paint metal fences so it can be done. My suggestion is that you go to Grayco's website, click the "contact us", and ask them the question. That way you will get an expert opinion. Thanks for you comment!
I have a pool that needs to be repainted, 150 linear feet. Approximately how long will this take, one day maybe two? I also have a square tubing metal fence around my property, the paint still looks good, I question is, can I just spray or mini-roll it over the original paint or do I need to light sand it first?
Hello Fernando. Even painting oil base over oil base it's usually recommended that you light sand and use a bonding primer before you top coat. You may be able to cut corners, but your paint will definitely last much longer by doing the extra prep work. I've never painted a pool, so I'm not really qualified to give advice there. Hope this helped. Thanks for watching.
So far so good. There is no visible rust and no "sign of rust growing under the paint, but I wouldn't anticipate that for, hopefully, another 10 years.
Being old school, I prefer the separates, but, in fairness, I used the 2 in 1 type paints in the distant past. I haven't used the newer versions. They may work fine. If you do use them be sure to put on at least two coats.
Hello. Thanks for this video! I recently hired someone to put a fence on my acre. He used old pipe caked in rust, and it turns out he didn’t do ANY prep on the pipe-he didn’t even use a primer. I fired him and am now trying to sand down the pipe with a wire brush. It’s very difficult now that it’s painted. Is there a better way to attack this? Maybe some kind of paint remover? Any ideas are appreciated.
Those layers of extra paint on top of the rust really multiplies your problem. It will take a lot of work with even a powered wire brush or grinding disc to take care of an acre of fence. Have you considered having it sandblasted? It's an extra expense, but that would take off rust and paint down to smooth metal in a hurry. Let me know how it turns out.
I think sand blasting is a great idea if you have the equipment or you can afford to hire a contractor. Of course, you need to get a primer coat on it quickly or the rust will simply reappear. Also, you'll end up with a bunch of sand in your yard.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 id also like to add that you are correct about the anti rust primer coating, I gotta say all those '3in1' paints DO NOT WORK. It says you can paint directly on rust, I even cleaned the rust to bare metal and the rust reappeared as quickly as one year later!
I have about 120 feet of metal fence that needs to be done. It's my horse's roundpen. I think it would take me too much time and be too big of a job for me, personally, to do. Do you think it'd be okay if I just went ahead and painted over it? It has only been exposed to the elements for about a year. Will the rust come up through the paint or will the paint simply be bumpy? What do you think is the best thing for me to do longterm? The fence only cost about $1600 and I should have painted it on day one, but didn't. :( Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.
Is the metal just covered with surface rust, or is it already scaling and pitted. If it's just surface rust, they make "direct to metal" paints that supposedly can be painted directly over rust; no primer needed. Being a bit old school, I'm not really comfortable with this idea, but this method seems to be popular now. I have about 60" of rusty wrought iron railing around my patio and I hope to try it out sometime this summer and fall (and,of course, make a video). in the meantime, search "direct to metal paint" on youtube to see how it's used.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471thank you, I sure appreciate it. It’s just surface rust. Seems like most folks out west here just leave their fences to rust so I didn’t think about painting it when I got it, but wish I had.
@@redsoxvette What brand do you have. I think my Ryobi require no more than 10% ethanol. I have seen the ethanol free gas sold in one gallon cans in the lawn and garden area of big box building centers. Brace yourself though. It's expensive.
It,s really hard to say. I worked it for about 3 weeks, but a lot of my time was spent filming, doing takes and retakes, editing, and on my video program.
Getting ready to tackle my fence. Really glad I saw this video first or else I would be redoing it again real soon. Thanks for the information!
You're welcome, and good luck with your project!
@@deerparkhomeshop2471
I'm using sandpaper can you please tell me which grit number should i use to remove rust from my fence ?
This was incredibly helpful. 10/10. No notes.
Thanks for letting me know. It's always good to know I am doing something that actually helps my viewers.
One of the best how-to videos I ever watched. I followed every step, using the same brands. The 5 steps are time consuming (overnight waits between many steps) and took a lot of work, but the results were really good. Take the time and put in the elbow grease to REMOVE the surface rust before you apply the kleenstrip. I went through multiple wire wheels.
Totally worth it. What an improvement. Thanks a lot.
Glad to hear it worked out for you. it's always better to do the extra
work up front, and not have to redo it in a couple of years. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the easy and thorough directions on painting the fence. I am excited to follow your directions.
Thanks and I appreciate you watching my video!
@@deerparkhomeshop2471so this is a 4 visit job correct? First to clean and strip and apply acid agent, second to clean that and prime, third is first coat paint, fourth is second coat paint? Can any of these steps be combined in one day? Like first and second coat of paint? Or primer and first coat of paint? Or is it 4 days no matter what
@@mattcoombs2697 If you are wanting to rush things, you could use a "direct to metal" rust paint. Supposedly, you can cut the primer step by doing this and also the acid step, if you believe the advertising. I plan to do research this and probably do another video in the spring on this process. I have rusty iron railings around my porch that need to be done.
Excellent! Just the right level of detail. Answered all of my questions as I prepare to paint my first metal fence... Very effective & interesting presentation style.
It's always great to hear comments like this. Every youtubers fear is that he's making videos that are boring to his audience. Thanks.
Thank you for the step by step video. Very helpful!
Glad you liked it, and I would like to thank you for watching it!
Gosh, thank you! I never knew about "ruster converter" and how important it might be. Better a longer, more detailed job that will last a decade, than a quick spray that will be a problem in a year or two. You have persuaded us to do it your way.
Thanks for your comment. Hope you have great results on your fence project.
Great info in a well presented video. No wasted time and all great advice. I get what I need to do as well as the specific items I need to buy. Huge help on my end. It’s always good to see someone actually doing what they are teaching. So many on TH-cam are teaching skills they studied, but are not very experienced at. I got all I need to see if each step lines up with your examples.
Thanks for your comments! And believe me, with 100 ft. of metal fence, if you're not experienced when you start one end, you sure will be when you reach the other!
Thank you, excellent, through video. You explained everything in a concise, understandable manner.
Glad you liked and thanks for watching the video.
This is one of the best organized, best presented DIY videos I've ever seen. Thanks for giving us so much information, without any wasted time. One suggestion - a mechanic's mirror on a stick, about $1 at dollar-type stores and about $5 at car parts and big box stores, would help you easily check for places you might have missed. One question - would a small, air-powered needle scaler help to quickly get rid of the rust in hard to get to areas? Thanks again for this truly excellent video.
Thank you for those kind words. When I make this videos I always wonder if I'm on target with my viewers, so your kind comments are reassuring. Great idea about the mirrir and I haven't tried a needle scaler, but I think I'm going to try that out. Thanks for the suggestions.
If you have the proper volume air tank & compressor, yes, absolutely. I used one and it helped great, but my 7 gal compressor couldn't keep up.
Agree
Very informative, I started this job today going in blind not sure where to start, so just started chipping away paint and sanding. I will definely be following your 5 step method. I need to make a run to home depot 🏃♀️ Thanks 😊
Good luck on your project. How much do you have to do?
Thank you! Going to use your process. We have a short run of 100+ year old wrought iron. 4 panels, 1 gate, that is anchored to our wood fence on either side. You are great instructor. Joci
Thanks for the vote of confidence! The process should work equally well on wrought iron.
Great video! You’ve given me the confidence to do this project myself. Thank you!
Thanks for watching and I hope you have a successful painting project.
I love this video! Very good info and entertainment watching you soak passing cars and spraying that converter above the bushes. This is totally how I work best...tunnel visioned. I recently pressure washed the paint off of my front porch and didn't even think about the storm door being cracked open to run the power cord. I soaked the entire entry way of my house and had water pouring from the floor joists into the basement. But, dammit, that porch paint got stripped!
Believe it or not, it didn't hurt the bushes and no one stopped to complain about paint or water on their cars, so I guess I did OK. If I waited until there was no traffic on this street I'd have my wife out holding a flashlight for me to work by at 2:00 am. But then I could soak those guys that wake me up at night with their loud music. There's an upside to every situation.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video and thanks a bunch for watching.
Great video. Great explanations on how to perform the procedure. Thanks.
I'm glad it helped and thanks for the kind words. We need to hear them occasionally.
Thank you for giving me the confidence to do this myself! Your explanations were clear and easy to follow.
I glad it was helpful. Thank you for watching my video!
A detailed informative guide, thank you.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching my video!
Just finished cleaning the rust off my bakers rack using Navel Jelly, going to paint it tomorrow . I didn't use rust converter although I am familiar with the product. Fingers crossed I don't regret skipping that step . Thanks for the very detailed and informative video.
Both naval jelly and rust convertor or similar and both have an acid base to kill the rust, so it should work. Rust convertor is just more cost effective for big jobs. Thanks for watching my video.
About to work on a rusty porch railing and this was very helpful. I did see that the rust converter can pit concrete per the bottle information so I will put cardboard down for that step also. Thanks for all your help.
Thanks for reaching out to me. The cardboard is a good idea. Drop cloths or tarps work well, but I have saved a few large boxes , and they slip under the fence rails easier and are lees affected by the wind.
I think I’m ready now! Thanks for the lesson
Great! Hope you have a successful painting project.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 thank you!!
@@aristoteliscatsaros552 You're welcom, but thank you for watching the video.
Thank you. Very helpful. I decided to take it in stages and not try to rush the process.
Best way to do it. Cutting corners always seems to cause more problems in the long run. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video. I will be using this method when I paint my fence next month.
Appreciate the comment and hope your painting project is a great success.
Subscribed...no nonsense content. Effective presentation.
I appreciate your comments and thanks for subscribing!
Great vid! I have a wrought iron porch and patio covering that needs a little attention. Think my Mom last tackled it in the late 80's. Since Mom has passed and I moved back into the home 4 years ago this has been on my to do list.
Picked up a set of stiff bristles for drill from eBay. Thank you for that. Also will get the other items you used as your project turned out so perfectly! Thanks again!!
My next outside painting job is to paint my rusty wrought iron porch railing and I will probably make another video. Good luck on your project!
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 I'm in Pennsylvania and those brutal winters really take their toll on our properties. I did the chain link fences last year. They came out really nice. Did em flat black!
And I know that Texas heat you're in really wreaks havock on metal and concrete. I have a cousin outside Fort Worth. 👍
@@thomasfisher1732 Yes, we live in coastal Texas and our high humidity encourages rust. Haven't been to Pennsylvania yet, but we are planning a fall trip in a couple of years to experience the autumn colors and to see all of the historical sites. Thanks for watching!
You'll ❤️ rural PA. I'm in the heart of the Pocono Mtns. 4 seasons, great state parks nearby, skiing, snowmobiling, ATV riding and plenty of outdoor fun! And historical sites to see. From Revolutionary War battlefields to Independence Hall!!
You'll be happy with your visit!!
@@thomasfisher1732 we're looking forward to it. Probably stay in an airbnb in the boonies for a few days and we do want to see Independence Hall. We also want to go to coastal Maine on the same trip.
This was very clear and easy to watch and understand
Thank you for your comment. It's always good to know that I haven't missed the mark.
Your video is very detailed.. I want to paint my Balcony railings. I will follow the steps that u mentioned.. thank you very much.
Thanks for watching! This summer I'm doing a video on painting patio wroght iron railings using the no primer method. Be sure to watch for it.
Thanks for the video, very informative. I'm in Scotland so the climate is very wet compared to Texas but hopefully the same principles will apply, but I won't be as confident as you are about getting 15 years out of the job!
Great to hear from Scotland! I think the principles will be pretty much the same. You folks also get a lot of snow and ice don't you? Our problem is relentless sunshine and extreme heat in a Texas summers.
Thank you for that info I hope to start on my fence next year
Well, you have plenty of time to prepare for it. I wish you great success!
This is my first time doing my gates i will do it your way thank you ❤
Good luck and thanks for watching! My apologies though, I somehow missed your comment.
I am going to be painting our front porch soon. I thought that your video was very thorough and helpful. 😊
Thank you for saying so. That's always good to hear. Thanks for taking the time to watch my video.
Great advice on prep. Thank you so much for this video. It is much appreciated.
Thank you for watching!
Thank you for such an informative video. May I know what and when is thinner applied?
In the video, starting at the 5:20 mark, I used the thinner to remove the white chalky residue created by the rust convertor. This was a brief segment. I showed this method, but my preferred, and much quicker method, is to use a pressure washer to take it off, which I showed next. Of course, not every one has a pressure washer.
Very informative and professional.. thank you
Thank you for watching!
Thank you, great job explaining specific details. I appreciate it!
Thanks! It's always great to hear positive comments.
Very nice information-dense video, didn't expect to sit through the whole thing. Thanks for making it. Hopefully my fence would be as slick and durable as yours!
Time will tell! Thanks for your comments. I often worry that I am over detailed, but I watch so many videos that just don't cover what I want to know.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 Nah, you've done well! I think you've got the point across quite quickly early on and you showed the actual work without stretching it for too long.
I think your style of presentation wasn't too stiff and the montages of you doing something to the fence were not taking up too much time as well. Keep up the good work!
Thanks. That's good to hear.
Wire cup brushes on angle grinder. Dust mask eye protection. Owterol rust inhibitors mixed with red oxide primer. Rustoleum combi colour
Please elaborate. Not sure what you are trying to tell me.
He's trying to tell you that he's a moron
Thank you, you covered all my questions.
Great! Glad it was a help and thanks for watching!
Thanks so much , I have a heavy basement metal grate that is rusty and this video helps so much . Thanks thanks a. Million 😊
You're welcome. I hope you have geat luck with your gate!
Thank you very much for such detailed explanation! I'm about to start this project at home 🤗
Thanks for your comment and good luck on your project!
thanks for creating this video, i am going to give this a shot!
Thank you for watching! Good luck on your project.
This is probably the best video I have seen on the topic. You have inspired me to to tackle a couple of badly rusted railings. Fotunately I just successfully rebuilt the Briggs engine on my pressure washer.
good luck on your project, and we appreciatiate you watching!
This is the hardest thing I've ever done. My home is surrounded by metal fences and gates. I let it go for a couple of years, and now I'm paying the price! I'm using your video step by step. Thank you!
You're in Texas, I'm on the AL. gulf coast so the constant popup showers have been a real problem.
I spent over a week just painting about 60' of fence. Sounds like you have a whole lot more than me, so I feel your pain. Enjoy those pop up showers though. We are having a drought here. I'm having to water my lawn every week and my water bill has doubled.
If you can find Hammerite, an English paint, somewhere, buy it and try it out. The English use it to paint their stately metal fences in their very damp climate. It is very hard, but not impossible, to find in America. I bought some cans from Amazon a couple of years ago. The basic steps are the same as shown here, but the Hammerite top coat lasts for quite a while. (Hammerite may have been bought a couple of years ago by the owners of Rustoleum, but the high VOC content of the original formula is what makes it work.)
@@Anonymous-it5jw Ive never seen Hammerite in stores here, but I bet it's available on line. I'll have to try it out. Thanks!
Thank you very much! This is super useful for my project
Glad it helped and thanks for watching?
Currently working on one of 4 ornate custom made iron gates. They had 3 or 4 layers of paint from the past, house was built in '76.
Did a complete strip with wire wheels (ouch) didn't have but a tiny bit of rust, Rust-o gray primer, brush paint. Rollers haven't been good with the detailed pieces, which is most of the gate,
It sounds like they stayed on top of maintenance for you gates. Lots of work though. I'll bet you're glad that stripping job is over with!
Thanks for the great tips! I’m planning how to approach restoring an old family grave and this will help plan how to restore the metal fencing around it. ~ Amber
Hello Amber, that sounds like a very worthwhile project.. I would be interested to know how it turns out.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 thank you! I’ll be sure to report back
Great! I will look forward to it.
Thanks for the helpful information!
You're welcome, and thanks for watching!
I Been Painting for 27 yrs. And them spray paint can. Was great. It takes forever to brush those Circles. And points. I will uses that technique. I just learned from you. I will also use it on the locking and the gate Hinges.. i paint a fence just like that. Monday. I was going to try out a painter Glove.. I hear they work pretty good.. Faster using them on poles of pipe. You should make a Video painting with one of them. If you do give me a shout out. Londo. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed the video. Like you, I find the circles difficult to deal with and trying to get into the tight places around them eats up my brushes. I haven't tried the Glove yet, but it sounds like, with your experience, you should be the one making the video.
Super helpful, thanks!
You're welcome. Thanks for commenting.
You should also wear a RESPIRATOR with vapor filter for the OSPHO (or phosphoric acid-containing products).
And an N95 mask for the rust removal.
I used a sandblasting attachment ($30 on Amazon) for my pressure washer to clean off my wrought iron furniture and steel mesh yard cart/wagon. It's messy, but cleans rust and paint off steel QUICK.
Does it remove enough rust and corrosion so that you don't need to use the wire brush or grinder? I think I found the one you're referring to on Amazon. Apparently it just uses regular dry sand, like play sand maybe?
Excellent details 👏🏼
Glad you liked it and thanks for watching!
This video is VERY informative! Thank you so much for sharing this! Our gate is small compared to yours, so I'm hoping to get it done in one weekend before HOA has a COW! LOL j/k
Got to keep that HOA happy! Thanks for watching.
Omg, thank you somuch for very imformative video
I'm glad it was helpful, and thank you so much for watching my video.
Thanks for taking the time to make and post this video. All great information, well presented! One question. I'm getting ready to tackle my fence. Have you ever considered using an old sock or rag to apply the paint? Like you say, painting the details will be time consuming and tedious. Using a sock or rag may speed up the process just don't know how it will look.
Yes it will. The sock works pretty well, although it makes for a thinner coat and I tend to make a mess when I do it. I seen others do it with good success though.
Great vid, very clear 👍
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
Thank you for sharing your process. How many linear feet is the fence and how many hours did it take from start to finish?
I did about 60 feet of fence, and it took a little over two weeks, but remember, I was filming a video at as I painted, so set up, takes, retakes, and etc. caused it to take a lot longer than it normally would. Thanks for watching!
Great information! Thanks
Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for watching,
Thanks for making this video. Great info! 👍🔔
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.
Thank you... very helpful indeed!
I'm glad it was helpful. Thank you for watching.
Very helpful. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching.
Hi Mike,
As pretty much everyone else has written, you've done a very nice job of giving us the important information, without extraneous commentary. I really appreciate your succinct thoroughness.
I'm going to be painting a customer's metal fence.
Most of it is in good shape, though the last paint was applied about fifteen years ago.
My question has to do with the gate hinges. There's a bit of rust seeping out from between parts that hold the pin. I can't pull the pin out as I do with a normal door; that would enable me to get to the rust source. Nor do I want to get paint inside the joints.
So, any suggestions about how I can handle this situation?
Thank you for the kind words! Can't hear them enough.
You might try saturating the hinges with the rust inhibitor. You could use something like a glue syringe to inject it into the joints. If it needs it, follow up with WD40. Just make sure you clean all the residue off the outer parts before painting.
Looks good!
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the thorough video. I have my mom n dad’s old rusty glider seat to restore so I have been searching TH-cam videos, some of the glider frame areas are almost rusted through. Do you have a video tutorial on how to reinforce weak areas of rusty metal? Years ago as a teen, I had an old car that had rusted out areas and was successful in repairing it. It’s been a few decades so hopefully the process has improved.
Unfortunately, I don't have a video and would have to research it. I would think that the glider frame, since it is load bearing, may need to be welded after cleaning & prep. the metal. But I certainly no expert on that and I can't see your situation. Sorry I can't be more help.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 thanks for the suggestion, I will definitely be researching more.
Thank you! I wish I had seen your video last year when I painted my 1950s iron patio furniture: 2 tables, 10 chairs, a couch, and an end table.
It’s been a year. Although I thought I got the rust off, and I used the Rustoleum rust-converter primer, I have rust coming through.
The kicker is now Rustoleum has discontinued their light turquoise color Stops Rust enamel.
I think I am going to have to get a couple cans of the brush-on Stops Rust enamel and try to mix colors to match it. What a pain in the neck!
Do you think your process can be used on touch-ups?
Is the rust just coming through in a few isolated spots or do you have a much bigger problem? It sound's like your rest convertor was actually in the primer and not a seperate product like I used, and I haven't used their "Stops Rust" product. I used the Professional primer and enamel, but your's should be a good product. My thinking is to just try to touch it up, but if it comes back, you'll probably need to take it back to bare metal.
Thank you for these steps
I hope it helped! Good luck on you project and thanks for watching.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471
I messed up. I just paint my wall before I find this video. Haha.
Q 1. My gate got some holes here and there. How do I fix it? Do I need to weld it back?
Q 2. How deep should I scrape using the wire brush. Is it just a scratch on the rusty part or until the rust is gone?
Q 3. It's my first time having a drill. Usually I find the hardware store sell those wire brushes. Just wire brushes. What is the thingy that connects the drill and the wire brushes?
Sorry for so many questions
@@DashmundHunt It sounds like you are making a bold stem into the world of D I Y.
Q 1: How big are these holes? You may be able to grind & use a rasp to remove the rust. Then pack the hole with synthetic steel wool and Bondo over it. Sand it smooth and repaint. Don't pack the hole too tight or there won't be room for enough filler to make a good repair.
Q2: It's hard to remove all of the rust. you really just want to remove as much as you can and then use the rust inhibitor. It will kill the remainder.
Q3: The wire brushes I used had a shaft that would simply chuck up in the drill. If yours have a hole in the middle, there should be a mandrel that will fit them. If they sold this type at the hardware store, they should also have the mandrel.
5/14/24
Watched your video, and it was great. I have a few questions.
Notice u just used a Wire brush and a wire brush set attached to your electric drill to remove the rust plus u used your grinder on heavily pitted areas then used your rust converter.
Questions -
1) Did you not find it necessary to use any sandpaper?
Does the above method take care of all the rust?
2)So use the brush etc. mentioned above to remove as much rust as possible and just on the heavily pitted areas you use your grinder. U states:" On heavily pitted areas I used my grinder. Not only did it remove the rust but it gave me a nice smooth area to paint over"
3)Did the grinder remove the rust all the way to the bare metal?
4)Should u try to remove all the rust to the bare metal where it is really bad? Ie pitted areas
5)If u remove the rust to the bare metal do u need to apply your rust converter over that?
6)I noticed u used Rustoleum Paint and primer. Have u ever thought about using Sherwin Williams DTM PAINT?
You don’t have to use a primer?
7)I have used it in the past and was just going to prime my rusted spots and paint the rest with Sherwin Williams DTM PAINT?
8)I also already bought some Krud Kuter-The Must for Rust, have u ever used this product? 9)Why did use Kleenstrip 1 gal. rust converter?
Thank u ,Donna
Lots of questions. I'll do my best to answer them.
If you prefer to use sandpaper, you can. But whether you use sandpaper, grinder, or etc., it's optimistic to assume that you can remove absolutely all of the rust. That's why you use the converter. It will neutralize any rust you miss. The Krud Kuter-the Must should work fine. As a matter of fact, Krud-Kuter is a Rustoleum company. I use the grinder because it is fast, and I use it because I don't like the look of all that rust build up under the paint, although the proper use of the converter would have penetrated the build up and killed the rust.
The Rustoleum paint I used is an oil based DTM paint. The label says that you can paint it directly over metal, but they go on to say that use of a primer will give longer lasting protection.
I have not tried the Sherman Williams DTM product so it would be irresponsible to recommend it. What I have seen is acrylic. Not sure that I want to use a water based product for this application. However this is a company that makes high quality products. Search for "direct to metal acrylic paint" on youtube. There are a number of videos there that might help you decide.
Hope this helps, and reach out to me again if you have anymore questions.
Thank u for responding so quickly. Few more questions.
1)Does using the wire brush attached to the drill do a better job at removing the rust vs using the manual brush?
Or will the wire brush attached to the drill make it easier and faster to use?
My Sherwin-Williams paint is called Direct-to-Metal Alkyd Enamel,it is not DTM acrylic. I asked the store and they said it is oil-based.
2)Can I just prime my rusted spots after they are treated with Krud Kuter-The Must for Rust and then put 2 coats of my DTM over my entire fence versus applying an entire coat of primer and then an entire coat of DTM. I was told the DTM essentially has a primer in it.
3)Have u ever tried applying the paint with a small sock on a fence like u have compared to a roller /paintbrush. I have seen people do it on u tube. Wondering how it looks, does it look as nice as using a roller. Do u think it is quicker to use a sock? Thank you .Donna
@@donnab5657 1. It is mainly much faster and easier. You can do a good job with the hand held, but you will get weary and will be tempted to cut corners.
2. The idea of the DTM paints is that you don't have to prime at all. If you clean and wire brush it good, and then use the Must for Rust you can paint directly over it. It does have primer and a rust inhibitor built in. Just read the instructions carefully and make sure there are not special circumstances. One I looked at said direct for bare metal, but to prime over oil or alkyd painted surfaces.
3. There's nothing wrong with the sock method. It just takes a bit of practice to get the hang of it, and some of the youtubers have mastered it. It tends to be sloppier. Be sure to put down a protective tarp or cardboard because it tends to cause paint runs and drips as you wipe it on. You'll still need a brush for scroll work, corners, and tight spots.
FYI. I will be painting a wrought iron railing this summer using the DTM paint, so watch for my video.
Thank you for your detailed video. I’ve watched it twice. I’m about to do my pool fence.
My fence needs minimal touch up and only slight rust in certain areas. Do I still need a primer?
To me the primer is just insurance and what I've always done. I'm old school. Even the Rustoleum paint I used can be applied directly over reasonably rust free metals. Of course, in the small print the label says "for even better results use Stops Rust Primer". There are paints out there that are specifically formulated for direct to metal use, so you may consider one of those. I can't recommend one yet because I haven't tried them. However, I hope to use this method in an upcoming video. Thanks for your comment.
Thank you for this information. It is very helpful. One of the guys who painted my house is asking for $500 to paint the big metal gate. I was wondering if that’s a fair price. Not sure if materials is included.
I'm not sure about that. Being a DIY guy, I usually tackle those projects myself. You could also get a second bid to compare his to.
Great video with some of that Texas dry humor
Thank you!
Good job buddy
Thank you!
Great overview! I noticed you used gloss.. How shiny is it? I was trying to do it Satin or semi-gloss but seems they dont have those in gallon cans.
Thank you. I like to use gloss on metal because it seems more durable and easy to clean. It is shiny, but its certainly not going to blind drivers coming down the road on a sunny day. Semigloss would definitely be great if you can find it in the gallon can, even it its a metal paint from another quality brand. Thanks for watching.
Two questions. Will this process work with rusty wrought iron furniture? What psi pressure washer would you use with wrought iron furniture? Great video...thank you.
Yes, it should. Because it's furniture and appearance is more important, you probably will want to put in some extra effort to remove in pitting or built up scale before you use the rust converter. Thanks for watching the video.
Thankyou for posting
Thank you so much for watching!
great video super useful! approximately how long did it take you from start to finish? and how many ft/meters is your fence?
I painted about 70 ft. of fence and it took over two weeks, mainly because when you make a video it really slows things down with takes, retakes, and etc. Thank you for watching!
Thanks very much. How is it looking now?
It still looks good. Thans for watching.
Great video. Would you use the same products and steps for a indoor railing made of rusty rebar? Same oil paint etc? Thanks in advance.
Yes. Same steps. Clean it good, use the rust converter, prime, and the oil based top coat. Since it's indoors, you could be tempted to use flat top coat. But if it's a railing that people will actually put their hands on, I would go with semi gloss or gloss paint for durability. Thanks for watching.
great video. I am doing some volunteer work on a fence just like yours. I hate the circles, lol. But I appreciate you sharing your experience. I am using most of the products you mentioned. I used a different paint to finish my first section. It applied horribly. I am sticking to the rustoleum products as well going forward. The spray on primer, for rusty surfaces, really did a fantastic job. Do you have any suggestions for repairing deeply pitted sections. I used some grout that I am about to go back and check on its result. The fence is in pretty rough shape in some areas.
Bondo or an epoxy based filler should work pretty well on the pitted areas if your grout doesn't work. Anything's ok that will fill the depressions and allow you to sand it smooth and paint over with your enamel.
Great video, thanks for creating and sharing!
Thanks and I appreciate you watching.
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching!
very good video!
Thank you! Appreciate you watching.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 it presented the steps in a very logical and chronological way without being a direct 'step by step' video. I like how you considered the logical ways to go about it, vs the impractical ways.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 also it was edited well. The whole was very clear and direct without unnecessary transitions or edits. It really felt like one continuous shot, but without unnecessary footage. Very minimal transitions and editing may not get you views but it makes a very helpful video.
Thank you so much for the kind words. I spend a lot more time time editing and putting a video like this together than I do filming. The goal is always to have the kind or results you are talking about. Thanks for taking the time to watch my video!@@andrewknudson7712
Great video. Your attention to detail is as commendable as it is informative. That fence doesn't look repainted, it looks brand new. (Respect). Out of curiosity, If money and time didn't matter, what products and methods would you use to make that fence as durable as possible. Maybe some industrial 2 part epoxy or something.
Thank you for the kind words! I used the Rustoleum because I have had such good luck with it over the years and I really didn't consider the epoxy. I would like to try it though on a smaller project which might be a future video. There is also a one part epoxy paint on the market now that I would like to find out more about.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 Nothing beats Rustoleum when it comes to value for money. After a little research....yeah, if money is no object, there's some industrial coatings that would be complete overkill. Although I don't think your fence is going to be submerged in salt water. haha A DM Epoxy would look great, but it's going to cost 2 or 3 times as much.
@@commonmancrypto1648 I lost interest at the 2 or 3 times the cost statement. I am basically cheap!😄
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 Nothing about your work is cheap. I know painters who would roll on another coat of paint with little/no prep work. You go the extra mile. Again, respect. :-)
Excellent video, very useful. I'm in the middle of very laboriously restoring an old cast iron bench and needed a few expert tips on the optimal processes to follow. At he moment it's all about stripping off the multiple layers of paint the iron frame has accumulated over the years. I was wondering if I'd need to use a rust converter before applying the primer, and you've convinced me that it's not a step I can afford to skip. One question - would you recommend the use of red oxide primer once the rust has been sorted out?
I always use a primer before top coating. It just provides a good surface for the enamel to adhere to, and if you miss a tiny spot or two with your finish coat, it should prevent rust from coming through. It may not be absolutely necessary, but I've been doing it this way a long time and I've had good results. Appreciate you watching my video!
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 I completely agree, the primer is vital, I just wasn't sure of the best sort of primer to use. Since it's iron, I'd read that red oxide primer was best, but I'm not sure!
I agree. I always use the red but that's what I was taught earlier in life. The other "rusty metal" primers may work just fine but why change now? @@walkourwoofers853
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 Thanks for taking the time to offer your help and advice. Lots of hard work still to go, but I'm feeling more confident I'll get there now!
Thanks for the demonstration. Painting my porch railing and not sure to go flat black or glossy. Any suggestions?
It's a matter of personal taste really, but I would opt for a satin or semi gloss paint over the flat, just because it will probably weather better over time. Mine is glossy and I'm really happy with it.
Thank you for this video! great thorough information. I have some metal patio chairs that have a bit of surface rust at the seams on the back part of the chairs and at the bottom of the feet. With heavy rains, I get rusty water drainage. I plan on following the steps in the video. Any suggestions for how to prevent or what to use to prevent the potential for rusty water drainage and surface rust? Would you use a clear rustoleum sealant after the top coat has dried thoroughly or cured? Would you use the rust converter step? Thanks so much!
If you just have a bit of light surface rust you can wire brush it good, clean it off with some turp, and use the rust primer and enamel top coat. However if you have pitted rust, and that may well be the case in a seam, I would recommend the converter. The best thing for the drainage is to make sure you get a really good coat of paint in those areas.
I haven't used the clear sealer, and I wouldn't consider that unless I was going to top coat with a flat paint. If you are using the rustoleum type gloss enamel top coat, that would do the trick. Two coats of the top coat should last for a long, long time.
Hope this answers your question.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 Thanks so much for answering my questions. Could I use a rustoleum satin gloss finish enamel top coat, applying 2 coats for the best results? Trying our best to be able to keep these chairs for a while. Thanks!
@@judyrodriguez6714 Yes, the satin finish should work fine.
Hi guys, i need advice from an expert. I am doing a big job at my house painting mild steel gates amd railings. I am going to use 2 in 1 acrylic spray can paint as a primer. This is suitable to get in between the cracks on the gates/railings. My preference is to top coat with enamel resin lacquer paint. Will the enamel paint be ok to go on top of the acrylic 2 in 1?
The general rule of thumb is that you can use oil base over acrylic, but not the other way around. I use oil base rust primers over steel and don't have much experience with the acrylic primers.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 thank you kindly...
@@eamonnmurphy1844Well, thank's for watching.
Any advice on treating the screws/bolts for the fence where it's connected to your brick columns? Did you replace the bolts maybe? And thanks for the great video!!
I simply took a detail brush and painted them with primer, and then again with the enamel. Do you have missing bolts? Thank you for watching.
Can you use the same process to just address a couple of spots on the fence instead of doing the whole fence
Thank you!
You're welcome. Thank you for watching and commenting.
Can I use a graco airless sprayer with the green tips ?
I think I mentioned in the video that I am not a good spray painter. I generally brush, pad, or use a roller, even when I do it for other people. I know that contractor's spray paint metal fences so it can be done. My suggestion is that you go to Grayco's website, click the "contact us", and ask them the question. That way you will get an expert opinion. Thanks for you comment!
I have a pool that needs to be repainted, 150 linear feet. Approximately how long will this take, one day maybe two?
I also have a square tubing metal fence around my property, the paint still looks good, I question is, can I just spray or mini-roll it over the original paint or do I need to light sand it first?
Hello Fernando. Even painting oil base over oil base it's usually recommended that you light sand and use a bonding primer before you top coat. You may be able to cut corners, but your paint will definitely last much longer by doing the extra prep work.
I've never painted a pool, so I'm not really qualified to give advice there.
Hope this helped. Thanks for watching.
great if you have all the time in the world
I take it don't like the primer approach. I'm planing a video upcoming soon with " DTM or "direct to metal" paint with no primer.
How is your fence holding up now? Any updates?
So far so good. There is no visible rust and no "sign of rust growing under the paint, but I wouldn't anticipate that for, hopefully, another 10 years.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 how many years do you roughly think it will last
@@simpatico.official I'm hoping for 15+ years.
Instead of using a primer then a paint, could you just use Rust-oleum 2 in 1 paint and primer spray paint? Or it is better to buy it separately?
Being old school, I prefer the separates, but, in fairness, I used the 2 in 1 type paints in the distant past. I haven't used the newer versions. They may work fine. If you do use them be sure to put on at least two coats.
Hello. Thanks for this video! I recently hired someone to put a fence on my acre. He used old pipe caked in rust, and it turns out he didn’t do ANY prep on the pipe-he didn’t even use a primer. I fired him and am now trying to sand down the pipe with a wire brush. It’s very difficult now that it’s painted. Is there a better way to attack this? Maybe some kind of paint remover? Any ideas are appreciated.
Those layers of extra paint on top of the rust really multiplies your problem. It will take a lot of work with even a powered wire brush or grinding disc to take care of an acre of fence. Have you considered having it sandblasted? It's an extra expense, but that would take off rust and paint down to smooth metal in a hurry. Let me know how it turns out.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 You’re right; the effort involved in the powered wire brush sanding is extensive. I’ll look into sandblasting - thank you!
Would you recommend sandblasting as the first step? Or is doing it 'by hand' (grinder) better?
I think sand blasting is a great idea if you have the equipment or you can afford to hire a contractor. Of course, you need to get a primer coat on it quickly or the rust will simply reappear. Also, you'll end up with a bunch of sand in your yard.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 thank you
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 id also like to add that you are correct about the anti rust primer coating, I gotta say all those '3in1' paints DO NOT WORK. It says you can paint directly on rust, I even cleaned the rust to bare metal and the rust reappeared as quickly as one year later!
Discovering the rust killer was a game changer for me. Like you, I previously had problems with rust reappearing. @@ivaerak
Hi, do you remember how long it all took to do? Fab job btw 🌟
It took over a week for 80" of fence, but it takes longer when you're filming and doing retakes.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 haha I can imagine! Thanks for sharing, its really helpful 😊
@@SweetSugary22 Your welcome and thank you for watching.
very helpful
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Thank you for watching!
Thank you.
Thanks for your comment Roberto!
I have about 120 feet of metal fence that needs to be done. It's my horse's roundpen. I think it would take me too much time and be too big of a job for me, personally, to do. Do you think it'd be okay if I just went ahead and painted over it? It has only been exposed to the elements for about a year. Will the rust come up through the paint or will the paint simply be bumpy? What do you think is the best thing for me to do longterm? The fence only cost about $1600 and I should have painted it on day one, but didn't. :( Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.
Is the metal just covered with surface rust, or is it already scaling and pitted. If it's just surface rust, they make "direct to metal" paints that supposedly can be painted directly over rust; no primer needed. Being a bit old school, I'm not really comfortable with this idea, but this method seems to be popular now. I have about 60" of rusty wrought iron railing around my patio and I hope to try it out sometime this summer and fall (and,of course, make a video). in the meantime, search "direct to metal paint" on youtube to see how it's used.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471thank you, I sure appreciate it. It’s just surface rust. Seems like most folks out west here just leave their fences to rust so I didn’t think about painting it when I got it, but wish I had.
@@clarkosteo I'm a city boy and most every body paints their metal fences, but when you go to rural Texas, it's rusty fences everywhere.
Quick question what kind of gasoline do you use for your power washer?
I use premium for all of my small engine tools.
@@deerparkhomeshop2471 but not like ethanol free, mine says I have to use ethanol free but I can’t find any ethanol free gas near me.
@@redsoxvette What brand do you have. I think my Ryobi require no more than 10% ethanol. I have seen the ethanol free gas sold in one gallon cans in the lawn and garden area of big box building centers. Brace yourself though. It's expensive.
How many days/weeks did it take you (working how many hours per day) and how many linear feet approximately?
It,s really hard to say. I worked it for about 3 weeks, but a lot of my time was spent filming, doing takes and retakes, editing, and on my video program.
Man I wish I had a drill that works off 120v my batteries keep running out!
@@josepgutierrez22 But then, if I work outside with my electric dill, I have to lug around a 75' or 100' extension cord.