This brilliant video started my Sprinter again after 2 days head rubbing.. even more it made me change my old mindshift of this van being purely a mechanical machine to that of it's dual life.. it's a computer as well! So I rebooted my van and it started first pop! From the north coast of Australia a BIG THANK YOU Florida Van Man!!
Just stopped for a break on a side road . After coffee and noodles , talking to friends tried to start van and only get engine turning over sound . No ignition 😱 Stuck on the side of the road , no night out for me, just packet rice and canned salmon.. Can't complain, at least i have this. will try some of these tips tomorrow morning after the sun comes up. This video Gives me some hope. Thank you 😊 lol.
I had a no start no crank over the weekend and it turned out to be the main cable from battery to starter did a voltage drop test and found 10 volt lost on cable all clean and tight. Replaced with used cable and back on road. Like your videos keep them coming
Yet another great help Video,Although I am in the UK most of the information is the same on my Sprinter,when its not it still helps with the thought process on diagnosis Thanks
Great troubleshooting video. You are definitely the Sprinter guy. Came across your video by accident I was looking to buy a sprinter van in the future and was trying to research the common problems.
Great videos great people Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us I wish I can share something with you as well but I just got my van few months ago and still working on the conversion Thanks
Hi. I just bought a 2003 sprinter with 81k and seemed to run great the 40 miles home. After sitting over night the next day it wouldn’t start. Thought it just had a bad battery so I jumped it off my truck, took awhile but it did eventually start. I’ve had to do that once more and then decide to charge battery over night. The next day it started after several cranks. I then moved it to the shop where I’m converting into a camping van and when I got there, while idling I reset the radio. It died while idling and haven’t been able to start since. No lights are on and I’m super confused. Never owned a diesel before and I’m afraid of tearing something up. Any advice? This video seems to address a lot of causes and when I look at fuse box on side of seat I don’t see a yellow relay at all just one grey. Thanks for any help!
i guess Im randomly asking but does any of you know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..? I somehow lost the password. I would love any tips you can offer me.
If you're having repeated CRANKSHAFT position sensor problems, I have read that a cracked flex plate or timing issues could cause that. Repeated CAMSHAFT position sensor issues on the other hand could be wires or something bouncing around under the valve cover.
6:44 worked for me!! Switched those relays, although I can figure out what that other relay does in any diagram because although my van now runs, it keeps stalling randomly...
Thanks man! Dealing with this right now. I’ve done everything but the battery tip at the end. Will try that and see if that helps, have done crank sensor and relay but still having issues
Excellent video, thank you very much. Just bought my first T1n 10.2005 here in Germany, the 2148 cc engine. This engine is the most common in Europe from what I see; would have preferred a 2.7, but couldn't find one for a decent price, only ultra expensive, or with high milage. I am very happy with it and should have gone this route a long time ago. Will watch your other videos as well. Cheers
Congratulations and welcome to the Vanmily! Settle in and get comfy, we have over 250 videos about T1N's and a few unrelated. What is high mileage? Mine is a bit over half a million miles. They don't get that high without replacing parts as needed while low mile vehicles can still have 20 year old parts waiting to die.
Thank you very much for the kind words and the reply! My van has only 193.000 km, so that's 120.000 miles. You are perfectly correct about the parts going out even with low milage just because of the materials and their lifespan (plastics, low quality rubbers, etc). I will be changing all the consumables on Monday, all the filters, aer/diesel/oil, the oil obviously, and also the spark plugs. I am having a strange thing with the engine and I am hoping it's going to be resolved after these changes - cold start, always perfectly fine, excellent strat. If I drive 20 minutes or even keep the engine running half an hour, stop it and restartet, it just won't start; it spins the engine and tries to start, but doesn't manage. Only after the engine is cold again, after about halt an hour or more it starts perfectly again. I am guessing spark plugs, or diesel filter full of trash inside, and it takes some time until these sediments settle again down in the filter... Could also be other things, clearly, but we'll see how it goes after these changes. Thanks again! Cheers
Great Demo thank you I went through all of this already I have 2007 2500 gas no crank no start, driving me crazy (key, relays ,battery and starter even engine ground wire all checked)
Thanks.. #2 and #5 injector was bad. Tested with tubes with cam sensor disconnected...replaced the two injectors...starts up...giving it road test tomorrow
Should also add ecu relay that is under the steering wheel next to the signal lights relay! It driven me mad.. i checked so many things.. and it did not start in cold or hot days... i took the cap of the starter relay under seat.. and pushed the relay with finger... so it made that litle vibration and that engages possibly the ecu relay under steeringwheels fusebox.
Thanks for this video. Can you explain what the "burst" relay does, the one that you borrowed to swap out with the fuel pump relay? Thanks for the answer and thanks for you work here.
Thanks so much! Perfect video for T1N starting issues. Even though the engine battery tested "good" at the auto parts store, I replaced it and my Sprinter started right up. This was after I spend a day and a half troubleshooting other potential issues because the battery tested "good". Late in the day after the "good" test, I decided to conduct my own load test by using a 12 VDC to 120 VAC inverter. With a moderate load of 120 watts (12VDC x 10 amps DC), the battery voltage dropped within 5 minutes to less than 11 VDC. Another recommended test is to simply turn on your van headlights and see how long they last. Bottom Line: Don't trust auto part store battery tests (good or bad). It seems that batteries with 36 month warranty last a good 37 months and 24 month batteries are good for 25 months.
Well, I thought the new battery solved the problem, but a week later, it FAILED to start. The symptoms were the same, flickering then solid dashboard backlight, followed by lights out when the key was turned to the start position. I tested connections to all fuses. This looked like a weak connection somewhere that fails when high current is needed for starting or headlights. I went to the engine battery, and checked all connections. Everything tested and look good. On my T1N Sprinter RV, there's a small black distribution box that's connected to the positive battery terminal. There are four red wires, four fuses, and 8 screws that hold in the fuses. Everything tested good, but I tightened everything anyway. - I went back to the driver seat, turned the key, dashboard lights were bright with no flickering, and the engine started! I'd like to recommend that you add "clean and tighten distribution block connections" to your already comprehensive test sequence. I will make a video that shows the steps and post it on TH-cam.
Great video, and thanks for sharing all the valuable info , I try to fix my 2004 , I have code p0222 throttle position sensor, I replaced the pedal , but still the some ,sometimes start and working fine but sometimes no start like the video
Boss vid! I have a issue with it not starting after having been switched off in the last 10 mins. Bit inconvenient for a nip to the shops. Also sometimes the engine stays on after removing the key but will turn off when I turn the lights off!
Not starting sounds like camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor. Does the tachometer move while cranking when it doesn’t want to start? If the engine keeps running with the key out, just put the key back in and re cycle the key on/off.
Gonna check these parts hopefully it will start. My issue is turn key and get nothing, all dash light are on & installed a new battery. Jumped the starter and it engages & turns over but won't start. Hopefully its the relay 🙏 thx your video was helpful !
Mine does the exact same thing.. almost like something in the park shift lever is screwing up.. but it only does it once or twice every 6 months.. annoying, but a jiggle always fixes it..
A mix of eBay, amazon, and MillionMileSprinter for sensitive parts. Minor parts we'll buy on eBay or Amazon. Major parts like Cam & Crank sensors, injectors, etc. we purchase from Joel Sell @ millionmilesprinter.com
Awesome Video, My 2004 sprinter is not wanting to start after a short drive after the initialing cold start in the morning . If it sets for a few minutes it will start again. I'm in the trades so I drive my van on short drives through out the day.
Bill, good content for sure!! Do you have any advice on limp mode resolutions? 2005 Freightliner with 201,000 I've changed the EGR and resonator but still occurring. It goes away if I stop and shut engine down and restart then is fine. Seems to do this more frequently during cold winter months. FYI, drove it on a 7K mike trip last summer and never went into limp ode. Sorry for being so wordy. Really enjoy your channel and your approach and delivery is awesome. Thanks!
Need to put a proper code reader on it and see why it is going into limp home mode. AP200: amzn.to/2GD04Ft We also have a video on resetting limp mode without stopping.
Thinking about picking up an airstream class B 2005 with 27000 original miles, it has the 2.7 in it. looks in nice shape. people that own it are to old to travel anymore.
NO START! You are my go to guy for my 05. Engine cranks. Code reader says fuel rail pressure too high! Use your fuel line test for relief valve-no fuel! Bench test valve- no click Replace pressure relief valve and sensor-rail pressure too low. Rail pressure 190-250 Will recheck Purge system twice-no air. Lots of pressure to injectors. What next? CanBus?
Have you also tried the leak off test for injectors? We have two videos for that. Watch both and use clear tubing. There is no reason for the expensive vials I use in one video.
We are just a few steps behind the wave here. We have filmed the GP testing, module testing with replacing, and have yet to replace the plugs then edit the video. This week maybe...?
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks for the update.... If I can add some further requests... I own a 2006 Dodge Sprinter with just a little over 50k... It's like brand new and I love the thing. Has never seen salt. I like to get more info about this model because I can better equip myself in case something happens. I have done virtually all my own maintenance but the hard work is something you are doing. If you can 1 additional video when you get around to it....that would be great.. There are non around... Properly jump starting the 2003-2006 models. A friend of mine took out the electrical solenoid because he improperly hooked the terminals and the dealer charged him $900 bucks to replace the solenoid. There are lots videos on newer models but not on the 2003-2006s You are doing an excellent job on the videos, I already contacted my sprinter compatriots about you. Cheers!
This is a great video! Would this apply to a 2008 sprinter as well? I pulled into the gas station got some diesel fuel pulled up to the front went in to get my change want to come back out she wouldn't start, just crank.. It was about time for my fuel filter so I figured that was it I changed the fuel filter no help still just cranking. I will give you a video another watch when I get back to my van. Thanks!
There are many similarities but also some differences. Is it possible you pumped gasoline and not diesel? Cold fuel on a hot pump in the tank can be the event that causes a bad fuel pump to quit working but there are many other things that cause low fuel pressure. Do you have a compatible code reader? Find me on FaceBook for 1-on-1.
Very informative video, Thank you Florida Van Man. I have a 2003 Dodge Sprinter with the inline 5 cyl 2.7 mercedes diesel engine. My van will not start unless I spray into the air intake with either diesel fuel or starting fluid. After it starts, it will run all day. Shut it off after driving for hours, it needs a spray to start even then when thoroughly warmed up. It seems to lack power, but given distance it will accelerate to 80 mph, running at around 2800 rpm. The motor will only rev to about 4000, but that's fine with me, don't need more than that. The rectangular diesel fuel 'transfer pump' was replaced with a bosch pump by the previous owner. He thought that was the issue, it was not so he sold it to me. Any ideas what my no start issue might be caused by ? It's obviously fuel related, but might be some sensor that is not allowing the fuel to flow at starter motor cranking speeds, only after the starting fluid fires it up. Thank you for any assistance that you might offer, Steve
Most likely the high pressure fuel pump, but could also be the fuel rail releasing pressure or one of the injectors leaking to the return lines. Here is how to test that: th-cam.com/video/aB4d8xyZwU8/w-d-xo.html We have links in many video descriptions for a diagnostic code reader that may be very helpful in determining where the problem lies. Autel AP200
Great Demonstration. Although, 6:08 voltage drop by nearly 6 volts and simply glossed over? Of course this is a float charge, but pretty extreme not to explain possible starter failure. I recently purchased an 04 with a voltage drop at start of 3 volts, no injector signal and no crank rpm above 190. FP Good on scanner (4800 psi). CCA 1000 total on two batteries. What could be the cause of no injector activation? Thanks, -Justice
Stay tuned for a more in-depth dive into reasons a T1N won't start. It may be a month or more, but we are working on it and learning more about WHY the vans do what they do when they won't do what we want.
@@FloridaVanMan I have fuse # 17 shorting out. It's a 15A to Eng. Con. Unit. So I have no crank or fuel psi. Got it towed to shop, hopefully a fix tomorrow. Thanks 4 replaying.
Very helpful information as always. I have a similar problem I am in California otherwise I would bring the van to you. The van starts randomly I had to hit under the column form time to time and it works. When it doesn't work you'll hear the initial beep beep beep and the cooling fun starts running but not ignition, no cranking, nothing. I was told that the whole ECU computer, immobilizer and key w ignition needs to be replace. any suggestions?
SOS Diagnostics will repair the ECU for $600-$800. You will have to send skreem & key chip with because the computer is being reprogrammed. If you get desperate and find it unwilling to start at all, try sparking the battery with an 18 volt drill battery. It will only get worse from here on out without being repaired. There may be cheaper options on eBay, but SOS has been the go-to for years. One of our own vans, the red camper striped one, had this problem in 2013 and it’s been solid for 7 years. -Mike
Hey I got a 2008 frieghtliner sprinter with the Mercedes diesel motor. It cranks but wont start. I changed the crank sensor but the tachometer doest bounce. Also only starts if I spray starting fluid. Any idea thanks.
First STOP using starting fluid. That is for gasoline engines with spark plugs and an easy way to damage your diesel. Next, get a proper code reader and let the van tell you why it can't start. Autel AP200: amzn.to/2GD04Ft
Question, my 2003 sprinter Freightliner van does not have the extra relays that are in this video It has one black one. The numbers do not match the ones underneath the seat. And mine I had to take the seat out to access them. Please please please someone help me It has been down now for 2 months and when I turn the ignition on there is no noise or buzzing from the gas tank. So I want to start with the relay. Is there any other fuses or relays?!?! I am a complete loss and frustrated to no end
Hi! I have a 2005 with cold start troubles. Replaced all fluids and filters, camshaft sensor, and all glow plugs, battery tested good. Only happens 30% of the time. Once I get it running it turns right back on no problem. Been to 2 shops for help with no luck. They said pressures look good so I’m assuming that rules out fuel delivery issues. Maybe injector giving out? Any advice would be great thanks! 🙏
It could be one injector allowing fuel pressure to leak off, returning to the tank and not holding enough pressure to fire-up the injectors. There are several more likely culprits in the pressurized fuel system. Without reading codes you are throwing darts in the dark. Get the AP200 from our links page then watch the video on setup for a Sprinter. I offer one-on-one help to our Patreon members. floridavanman.com/donate/
Hi had you heard something about that, I get a 2008 dodge sprinter 2500, I’m getting the code 2641-008 B60 (Exhaust back pressure sensor ) plausibility error, I just change the sensor and still the code it’s coming back right away it’s cleared, I Check the three wires plug connector, looks ok 5v, solid ground, good continuity signal wire to the Pcm, I put some extra ground from the battery to the frame and motor, Pcm case and nothing, i tested both sensors in another car and works good, the lifedata is showing always 5000 hpa or 72.3 psi i think it’s a default value. I check in the other good car and shows the same with the plug disconnect. Any of you guys has heard anything about that, any ideas what could be, thanks
I really only know the T1N Sprinters with 2.7 liter 5 cylinder engines. After 2006 they started offering different motors and everything changed. We had a 2008 just long enough to realize how different everything is.
very interesting ! i have a Sprinter 310 D (OM 602 engine 2,9 l, 5 cyl, 102 PS) model 2000 and it suddenly cut while it was running perfectly well. I observe that the heat lamp is no more switching off and there is no more the clic that i could hear in the cabin, changed the 2 relays as shown inthe video, and i also changed the heater timer box on the right side of the engine.. Would you have an idea of what could be the failing component (That normally makes a clic after few seconds of ingnition ON).. Thank you for your help
I'm hoping a viewer can help you with this. I'm not familiar with the click you hear. I think you are referring to glow plugs, but they will not cause van to cut off. A good code reader should help with the engine cut-off symptom.
Always helpful. I bought my autel but I wasn't sure which one of their manufacturers brands to purchase for my t1n . Please would you tell me did you purchased dodge ? Or Benz? Or Benz sprinter?
Benz_Sprinter. Video coming soon on the set-up of AP200 for our vans, with tip about which to buy and why. Spoiler, one has lifetime download for Benz_Sprinter while the cheaper ones require $20 annual renewal for the download.
@@FloridaVanMan that is awesome I can't wait for you to make that content I did drained some money into this app and still having issues my vin is not matching. Showing up different car ugh😀 But thank you again for everything you do
I purchased the Autel AP200 from your amazon link. I have a 2005 T1n freightliner sprinter. It says not supported when i enter the VIN . Do i need a different scanner?
Excellent video. I have a 2021 Leisure Travel Van (Unity) which is built on a 2020 Sprinter 3500. It has less than 12000 miles on it and haven't had any issues until now. Drove it from OH to FL in December, no problems at all. Came home, parked it in the driveway, and it hasn't started since. I push the ignition button, all the lights on the dash come on, it does the oil check, etc, but NOTHING happens. Doesn't even try to crank. Everything else (lights, radio, etc) seems to work fine with the ignition on. I've tried all 3 key fobs, checked all the fuses. Very frustrating. My next step is to call Mercedes road-side assistance and hope I still have some coverage. :( Any ideas outside of what you already have in this video?
An air leak is the most common reason but it could also be an issue of fuel getting there, just not holding enough pressure to start the van. We have videos showing leak-off test for the injectors and fuel rail, but first look for air bubbles in the clear fuel lines. One-on-one assistance is offered via Patreon membership floridavanman.com/donate/
For a Sprinter we use this AP200: amzn.to/2GD04Ft Don't get the red one. It will need annual renewal at $19.99 but the one I linked will give you one free download for life. The download you want is Benz_Sprinter. And after making note of all the codes, clear them and drive to see what comes back. The new codes are all you need to worry about. The ones that don't come back may have been there for years, or caused by a low battery giving insufficient voltage to many sensors.
Good video. You can tell that the person knows what he is talking about. Did anybody see the issue with fusebox that is under the steering wheel? I turn key, but there is no lights on, untill I press on the fuse box, lights starts flickering and eventually turns on and I can start the engine. I installed brand new fusebox and still getting the same issue.
Occasionally the ECM fails in this way, but if you pressing on the fuse box effects it there must be a problem close. I would be looking at all things added after the factory. Any radio rewires, alarm or extra power wires.
Good morning sir. I have a 2003 2500 sprinter and my van won’t start. My van doesn’t have a fuel pump relay under the seat like your video I think cause older. Any suggestions where it would be at?
The starter relay is under the driver seat and you should be able to hear & feel it click when turning the key to start. We could check the contacts with a volt meter to ensure you are getting voltage to it in each position. Next time it doesn't start, try putting the gear sector in Neutral to try again. Be sure to use the brake and don't forget to put the van back into park if it doesn't help. Many folks have reported issues with the fuse block under the steering wheel. This fault can be isolated by holding the key in start position while giving the fuse block a good Whack!
hello sir, i'm an american in france with a 2004 mercedes 208 van issue. my van has always started. it cranks over, gives me an indication that it wants to start but does not engage. i noticed that the water sensor plug was not connected, in fact it's the wrong filter. could this be the problem? i'll try the fuel pump vibration in the morning, it's 9 o'clock pm here in europe. thanks for your video, you gave me a few tips to try tomorrow. cheers
Fuel filter sensor wire is only an alarm for water in the filter, so that is no big deal although it being disconnected will put a dash light. If you have a MAF sensor, unplug that. We have a video on testing the MAF. If the van still tries to fire occasionally but generally just cranks the most likely culprit is fuel pressure. Search our videos for "Leak-off" and you will find three videos. Two test the injectors and they show the same test on different motors types. The other is a rail leak off test. A failing injector will make starting very difficult but a failing rail pressure valve will often cause no start at all.
I have a '04 with 222K and it has been having starting issues all winter (long cranks and didnt want to start when it was wet out) the other day i was flying down the highway at 80mph and i heard a sound (over the music and road noise) like something lost pressure (sort of like a blow off valve sound) and instantly the van lost power and died, and now just cranks with no fuel delivery. I pulled codes with a CR Plus : p0087 Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too Low p0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range . Do you suspect that to be the High Pressure Fuel Rail or Fuel Pump? How do you replace the in-tank fuel pump? It was a $350 tow, so trying to find some used parts which take longer to obtain. I will go through your checklist of culprits. . Thanks amazing video, not sure how you got such clear image under the van!
A sudden rush of air escaping is common sound when a turbo hose fails. There is a bit of humor with information in this video. th-cam.com/video/pa9kLnPdJA4/w-d-xo.html
This brilliant video started my Sprinter again after 2 days head rubbing.. even more it made me change my old mindshift of this van being purely a mechanical machine to that of it's dual life.. it's a computer as well! So I rebooted my van and it started first pop! From the north coast of Australia a BIG THANK YOU Florida Van Man!!
THIS is exactly what I look for in a rosier video. To the point. In depth description and demonstration..... ugh fantastic!!
Brother you did a perfect quick simple rundown of the basic possible issues. GREAT VIDEO!!!!!!
Excellent video on the basic initial troubleshooting for a “my van won’t start “ conundrum........
Just stopped for a break on a side road . After coffee and noodles , talking to friends tried to start van and only get engine turning over sound . No ignition 😱 Stuck on the side of the road , no night out for me, just packet rice and canned salmon.. Can't complain, at least i have this. will try some of these tips tomorrow morning after the sun comes up. This video Gives me some hope. Thank you 😊 lol.
What was the cause?
I had a no start no crank over the weekend and it turned out to be the main cable from battery to starter did a voltage drop test and found 10 volt lost on cable all clean and tight. Replaced with used cable and back on road. Like your videos keep them coming
replace your motor ground cable. 1 click (RELAY)no start
You Rock Florida Van Man. Thanks for the information!
👍😊
Thank you very much for this!!! Super informative. I appreciate the thoughtful step by step process of elimination technique.
Great informative video . Anything on basic sprinter t1n maintenance or problem solving is great thanks.
Had an issue on my 2005 311cdi and all those tips helped me identify the faulty relay Thank you
So clear and concise 🔥🔥🔥 🙏🙏
You Guys are cool, spreading t1n information. Win :)
yup, another great video. right there with the rest of your fan club...new groupie. Thanks
Thanks for posting, always learning something here on your channel.
Hi. Have a 2006 sprinter will only go on second start. Engine sounds sweet. Best videos I’ve ever seen. Legend.
That's not a symptom I've dealt with but I wonder if unplugging the MAF would change the way it starts.
Yet another great help Video,Although I am in the UK most of the information is the same on my Sprinter,when its not it still helps with the thought process on diagnosis Thanks
Great troubleshooting video. You are definitely the Sprinter guy. Came across your video by accident I was looking to buy a sprinter van in the future and was trying to research the common problems.
Did you find our Buyer's Guide video? There is a downloadable checklist too. Download is free for our Patreon members. floridavanman.com/donate/
Great videos great people
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all of us
I wish I can share something with you as well but I just got my van few months ago and still working on the conversion
Thanks
Hope to see some pictures along the way!
Yeah sure I’ll upload some in the Facebook next week when I finished all the electrical, insulation and side panels
Last month I bought beautiful Mercedes Sprinter from 2004. Thank you for your informative videos and all the work :)
Welcome to the Vanmily! I'll be here when questions come up or you can find me on FaceBook facebook.com/groups/floridavanman/
Hi. I just bought a 2003 sprinter with 81k and seemed to run great the 40 miles home. After sitting over night the next day it wouldn’t start. Thought it just had a bad battery so I jumped it off my truck, took awhile but it did eventually start. I’ve had to do that once more and then decide to charge battery over night. The next day it started after several cranks. I then moved it to the shop where I’m converting into a camping van and when I got there, while idling I reset the radio. It died while idling and haven’t been able to start since. No lights are on and I’m super confused. Never owned a diesel before and I’m afraid of tearing something up. Any advice? This video seems to address a lot of causes and when I look at fuse box on side of seat I don’t see a yellow relay at all just one grey. Thanks for any help!
Amazing video! Thank you for this helpful info:)
Thanks for sharing this info!
Huh. I learned something again from you guys keepem coming!
i guess Im randomly asking but does any of you know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow lost the password. I would love any tips you can offer me.
@Avery Moses instablaster :)
Champion, cheers mate. Happy camper NZ🎉
Excellent video, thanks for the tips!! One of the problems you mark in the video happens to me ( cramshaft sensor )
If you're having repeated CRANKSHAFT position sensor problems, I have read that a cracked flex plate or timing issues could cause that. Repeated CAMSHAFT position sensor issues on the other hand could be wires or something bouncing around under the valve cover.
Always awesome info
6:44 worked for me!! Switched those relays, although I can figure out what that other relay does in any diagram because although my van now runs, it keeps stalling randomly...
the end of your video is wolf creek pass in Colorado, I live down the road of that over in Durango
Wake up the chickens 🐥🐥🐥
Thanks for another awesome video.
Thanks I have the other code reader u recommended but I’ll remember 25c cold on dip 80 c toward top of dip thank u sir
Best where to start problem solver video . Thanks. Suscribed
Thanks man! Dealing with this right now. I’ve done everything but the battery tip at the end. Will try that and see if that helps, have done crank sensor and relay but still having issues
Just like IT guys. Have you reset your computer 🖥 lol. I'm in the same boat on the side of the road. Will try it too in the morning
Very good info on the sprinter...tks
Excellent video, thank you very much.
Just bought my first T1n 10.2005 here in Germany, the 2148 cc engine. This engine is the most common in Europe from what I see; would have preferred a 2.7, but couldn't find one for a decent price, only ultra expensive, or with high milage. I am very happy with it and should have gone this route a long time ago. Will watch your other videos as well. Cheers
Congratulations and welcome to the Vanmily! Settle in and get comfy, we have over 250 videos about T1N's and a few unrelated. What is high mileage? Mine is a bit over half a million miles. They don't get that high without replacing parts as needed while low mile vehicles can still have 20 year old parts waiting to die.
Thank you very much for the kind words and the reply!
My van has only 193.000 km, so that's 120.000 miles. You are perfectly correct about the parts going out even with low milage just because of the materials and their lifespan (plastics, low quality rubbers, etc). I will be changing all the consumables on Monday, all the filters, aer/diesel/oil, the oil obviously, and also the spark plugs. I am having a strange thing with the engine and I am hoping it's going to be resolved after these changes - cold start, always perfectly fine, excellent strat. If I drive 20 minutes or even keep the engine running half an hour, stop it and restartet, it just won't start; it spins the engine and tries to start, but doesn't manage. Only after the engine is cold again, after about halt an hour or more it starts perfectly again. I am guessing spark plugs, or diesel filter full of trash inside, and it takes some time until these sediments settle again down in the filter... Could also be other things, clearly, but we'll see how it goes after these changes. Thanks again! Cheers
Great video
VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEO AND NO SCREAMING GUITAR MUSIC IS A RELIEF FOR THIS GRUMPY OL FART! LOL.. THANK YOU! GREAT VIDEO, NEW SUB FROM THE 641..
This video is the best. It did help me a lot thank you.
Good Stuff Bill! I'm subscribed! I'm buying the T-shirt.
Thank you!!!!!!!! Which one did you get? T1N thing or classic Florida Van Man?
Luv your video s ❤..so great 👍
Thank you so much!!!
thank you man ..good job
Great Demo thank you I went through all of this already I have 2007 2500 gas no crank no start, driving me crazy (key, relays ,battery and starter even engine ground wire all checked)
What happened? When ended up being the fix?
Thanks you dear sir I’m gonna give that a shot when I get back home
Good one,thank you
Thanks..
#2 and #5 injector was bad. Tested with tubes with cam sensor disconnected...replaced the two injectors...starts up...giving it road test tomorrow
Good Info !
Thanks for helping light the way...
Thank You! Happy to help.
“What is this, windows?!” 😂
Thank you.
Thanks!
Thank you very much🙂
Great video thank you
Should also add ecu relay that is under the steering wheel next to the signal lights relay! It driven me mad.. i checked so many things.. and it did not start in cold or hot days... i took the cap of the starter relay under seat.. and pushed the relay with finger... so it made that litle vibration and that engages possibly the ecu relay under steeringwheels fusebox.
Thank you
I found my problem before i watched! But thanks mat be helpful later on !!!
Thanks for this video. Can you explain what the "burst" relay does, the one that you borrowed to swap out with the fuel pump relay? Thanks for the answer and thanks for you work here.
Muy buen video amigo gracias aprendí mucho
Thanks so much! Perfect video for T1N starting issues.
Even though the engine battery tested "good" at the auto parts store, I replaced it and my Sprinter started right up. This was after I spend a day and a half troubleshooting other potential issues because the battery tested "good". Late in the day after the "good" test, I decided to conduct my own load test by using a 12 VDC to 120 VAC inverter. With a moderate load of 120 watts (12VDC x 10 amps DC), the battery voltage dropped within 5 minutes to less than 11 VDC. Another recommended test is to simply turn on your van headlights and see how long they last. Bottom Line: Don't trust auto part store battery tests (good or bad). It seems that batteries with 36 month warranty last a good 37 months and 24 month batteries are good for 25 months.
Agree 100% ^^^^ One thing worse than parts store battery testing is parts store code reading. Always wrong when it comes to Sprinters.
Well, I thought the new battery solved the problem, but a week later, it FAILED to start. The symptoms were the same, flickering then solid dashboard backlight, followed by lights out when the key was turned to the start position. I tested connections to all fuses. This looked like a weak connection somewhere that fails when high current is needed for starting or headlights. I went to the engine battery, and checked all connections. Everything tested and look good. On my T1N Sprinter RV, there's a small black distribution box that's connected to the positive battery terminal. There are four red wires, four fuses, and 8 screws that hold in the fuses. Everything tested good, but I tightened everything anyway. - I went back to the driver seat, turned the key, dashboard lights were bright with no flickering, and the engine started! I'd like to recommend that you add "clean and tighten distribution block connections" to your already comprehensive test sequence. I will make a video that shows the steps and post it on TH-cam.
Another good one.
Really good video. Thanks eh
Nice troubleshooting
Great video, and thanks for sharing all the valuable info , I try to fix my 2004 , I have code p0222 throttle position sensor, I replaced the pedal , but still the some ,sometimes start and working fine but sometimes no start like the video
Nice ..great info
Thank you.
Boss vid! I have a issue with it not starting after having been switched off in the last 10 mins. Bit inconvenient for a nip to the shops. Also sometimes the engine stays on after removing the key but will turn off when I turn the lights off!
Not starting sounds like camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor. Does the tachometer move while cranking when it doesn’t want to start? If the engine keeps running with the key out, just put the key back in and re cycle the key on/off.
Wow amazing videi
Gonna check these parts hopefully it will start. My issue is turn key and get nothing, all dash light are on & installed a new battery. Jumped the starter and it engages & turns over but won't start. Hopefully its the relay 🙏 thx your video was helpful !
Mine does the exact same thing.. almost like something in the park shift lever is screwing up.. but it only does it once or twice every 6 months.. annoying, but a jiggle always fixes it..
Thanks for the idea to disconnect battery for damn computer to reset…Started right up after that!! Phew…no mechanic $$$😅
Wow! Terrific Information. Thanks for sharing. Just wondering where you purchase your parts?
A mix of eBay, amazon, and MillionMileSprinter for sensitive parts. Minor parts we'll buy on eBay or Amazon. Major parts like Cam & Crank sensors, injectors, etc. we purchase from Joel Sell @ millionmilesprinter.com
Exelente thanks
Awesome Video, My 2004 sprinter is not wanting to start after a short drive after the initialing cold start in the morning
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If it sets for a few minutes it will start again.
I'm in the trades so I drive my van on short drives through out the day.
Typically the cam shaft sensor is what causes no-start until engine cools.
I replaced the cam shaft sensor and it’s been a few days of normal start ups. Thank you so much.
Thanks Shaggy
great.
Bill, good content for sure!! Do you have any advice on limp mode resolutions? 2005 Freightliner with 201,000 I've changed the EGR and resonator but still occurring. It goes away if I stop and shut engine down and restart then is fine. Seems to do this more frequently during cold winter months. FYI, drove it on a 7K mike trip last summer and never went into limp ode. Sorry for being so wordy. Really enjoy your channel and your approach and delivery is awesome. Thanks!
Need to put a proper code reader on it and see why it is going into limp home mode. AP200: amzn.to/2GD04Ft
We also have a video on resetting limp mode without stopping.
It starts on its own while it's on
Thinking about picking up an airstream class B 2005 with 27000 original miles, it has the 2.7 in it. looks in nice shape. people that own it are to old to travel anymore.
Find one for me too..? LOL
NO START! You are my go to guy for my 05.
Engine cranks. Code reader says fuel rail pressure too high!
Use your fuel line test for relief valve-no fuel! Bench test valve- no click
Replace pressure relief valve and sensor-rail pressure too low.
Rail pressure 190-250 Will recheck
Purge system twice-no air. Lots of pressure to injectors.
What next? CanBus?
Have you also tried the leak off test for injectors? We have two videos for that. Watch both and use clear tubing. There is no reason for the expensive vials I use in one video.
Awesome. Ty. How about doing a video on glow plug and controller replacement.
We are just a few steps behind the wave here. We have filmed the GP testing, module testing with replacing, and have yet to replace the plugs then edit the video. This week maybe...?
@@FloridaVanMan Thanks for the update.... If I can add some further requests... I own a 2006 Dodge Sprinter with just a little over 50k... It's like brand new and I love the thing. Has never seen salt. I like to get more info about this model because I can better equip myself in case something happens. I have done virtually all my own maintenance but the hard work is something you are doing. If you can 1 additional video when you get around to it....that would be great.. There are non around...
Properly jump starting the 2003-2006 models. A friend of mine took out the electrical solenoid because he improperly hooked the terminals and the dealer charged him $900 bucks to replace the solenoid. There are lots videos on newer models but not on the 2003-2006s
You are doing an excellent job on the videos, I already contacted my sprinter compatriots about you. Cheers!
Hi, thank you for the great video.which software/app do you use on your phone as diagnostic?
Thanks
There is a link in the video description for AP200.
Great Viedo, thanks. What ODB2bapp on your phone are you using?
Autel AP200. We have a link at floridavanman.com/links/ and a video to help set it up correctly, th-cam.com/video/1vCPcBK0R9k/w-d-xo.html
This is a great video! Would this apply to a 2008 sprinter as well? I pulled into the gas station got some diesel fuel pulled up to the front went in to get my change want to come back out she wouldn't start, just crank.. It was about time for my fuel filter so I figured that was it I changed the fuel filter no help still just cranking. I will give you a video another watch when I get back to my van. Thanks!
There are many similarities but also some differences. Is it possible you pumped gasoline and not diesel? Cold fuel on a hot pump in the tank can be the event that causes a bad fuel pump to quit working but there are many other things that cause low fuel pressure. Do you have a compatible code reader? Find me on FaceBook for 1-on-1.
Very informative video, Thank you Florida Van Man. I have a 2003 Dodge Sprinter with the inline 5 cyl 2.7 mercedes diesel engine. My van will not start unless I spray into the air intake with either diesel fuel or starting fluid. After it starts, it will run all day. Shut it off after driving for hours, it needs a spray to start even then when thoroughly warmed up. It seems to lack power, but given distance it will accelerate to 80 mph, running at around 2800 rpm. The motor will only rev to about 4000, but that's fine with me, don't need more than that. The rectangular diesel fuel 'transfer pump' was replaced with a bosch pump by the previous owner. He thought that was the issue, it was not so he sold it to me. Any ideas what my no start issue might be caused by ? It's obviously fuel related, but might be some sensor that is not allowing the fuel to flow at starter motor cranking speeds, only after the starting fluid fires it up. Thank you for any assistance that you might offer, Steve
Most likely the high pressure fuel pump, but could also be the fuel rail releasing pressure or one of the injectors leaking to the return lines. Here is how to test that: th-cam.com/video/aB4d8xyZwU8/w-d-xo.html We have links in many video descriptions for a diagnostic code reader that may be very helpful in determining where the problem lies. Autel AP200
@@FloridaVanMan Thank you for the reply and info. I'll watch your video on youtube !
Great Demonstration. Although, 6:08 voltage drop by nearly 6 volts and simply glossed over? Of course this is a float charge, but pretty extreme not to explain possible starter failure.
I recently purchased an 04 with a voltage drop at start of 3 volts, no injector signal and no crank rpm above 190. FP Good on scanner (4800 psi). CCA 1000 total on two batteries. What could be the cause of no injector activation?
Thanks,
-Justice
good to know will try to unhuck battery out
like always a great help .... eh
Stay tuned for a more in-depth dive into reasons a T1N won't start. It may be a month or more, but we are working on it and learning more about WHY the vans do what they do when they won't do what we want.
that handy mine has about 450 thousand miles
Thanks for helping diagnose issues.... learned some things.
But my issue is fuses blowing to fuel pump. Next video to find my cure.
Only two things can cause that, in-tank pump going bad or the wire going to it.
@@FloridaVanMan
I have fuse # 17 shorting out.
It's a 15A to Eng. Con. Unit.
So I have no crank or fuel psi.
Got it towed to shop, hopefully a fix tomorrow.
Thanks 4 replaying.
@@timtripp4222 Have you seen out recent video about testing the ECM voltages? it is about 2 weeks old, black & white thumbnail with a pic of the ECM.
Very helpful information as always.
I have a similar problem I am in California otherwise I would bring the van to you. The van starts randomly I had to hit under the column form time to time and it works. When it doesn't work you'll hear the initial beep beep beep and the cooling fun starts running but not ignition, no cranking, nothing. I was told that the whole ECU computer, immobilizer and key w ignition needs to be replace. any suggestions?
SOS Diagnostics will repair the ECU for $600-$800. You will have to send skreem & key chip with because the computer is being reprogrammed. If you get desperate and find it unwilling to start at all, try sparking the battery with an 18 volt drill battery. It will only get worse from here on out without being repaired. There may be cheaper options on eBay, but SOS has been the go-to for years. One of our own vans, the red camper striped one, had this problem in 2013 and it’s been solid for 7 years. -Mike
@@FloridaVanMan Thank you very much for the info. Thank you for posting great videos.
Hey I got a 2008 frieghtliner sprinter with the Mercedes diesel motor. It cranks but wont start. I changed the crank sensor but the tachometer doest bounce. Also only starts if I spray starting fluid. Any idea thanks.
First STOP using starting fluid. That is for gasoline engines with spark plugs and an easy way to damage your diesel. Next, get a proper code reader and let the van tell you why it can't start. Autel AP200: amzn.to/2GD04Ft
Question, my 2003 sprinter Freightliner van does not have the extra relays that are in this video It has one black one. The numbers do not match the ones underneath the seat. And mine I had to take the seat out to access them. Please please please someone help me It has been down now for 2 months and when I turn the ignition on there is no noise or buzzing from the gas tank. So I want to start with the relay. Is there any other fuses or relays?!?! I am a complete loss and frustrated to no end
Hi! I have a 2005 with cold start troubles. Replaced all fluids and filters, camshaft sensor, and all glow plugs, battery tested good. Only happens 30% of the time. Once I get it running it turns right back on no problem. Been to 2 shops for help with no luck. They said pressures look good so I’m assuming that rules out fuel delivery issues. Maybe injector giving out? Any advice would be great thanks! 🙏
It could be one injector allowing fuel pressure to leak off, returning to the tank and not holding enough pressure to fire-up the injectors. There are several more likely culprits in the pressurized fuel system. Without reading codes you are throwing darts in the dark. Get the AP200 from our links page then watch the video on setup for a Sprinter. I offer one-on-one help to our Patreon members. floridavanman.com/donate/
Hi had you heard something about that, I get a 2008 dodge sprinter 2500, I’m getting the code 2641-008 B60 (Exhaust back pressure sensor ) plausibility error, I just change the sensor and still the code it’s coming back right away it’s cleared, I Check the three wires plug connector, looks ok 5v, solid ground, good continuity signal wire to the Pcm, I put some extra ground from the battery to the frame and motor, Pcm case and nothing, i tested both sensors in another car and works good, the lifedata is showing always 5000 hpa or 72.3 psi i think it’s a default value. I check in the other good car and shows the same with the plug disconnect. Any of you guys has heard anything about that, any ideas what could be, thanks
I really only know the T1N Sprinters with 2.7 liter 5 cylinder engines. After 2006 they started offering different motors and everything changed. We had a 2008 just long enough to realize how different everything is.
very interesting ! i have a Sprinter 310 D (OM 602 engine 2,9 l, 5 cyl, 102 PS) model 2000 and it suddenly cut while it was running perfectly well. I observe that the heat lamp is no more switching off and there is no more the clic that i could hear in the cabin, changed the 2 relays as shown inthe video, and i also changed the heater timer box on the right side of the engine.. Would you have an idea of what could be the failing component (That normally makes a clic after few seconds of ingnition ON).. Thank you for your help
I'm hoping a viewer can help you with this. I'm not familiar with the click you hear. I think you are referring to glow plugs, but they will not cause van to cut off. A good code reader should help with the engine cut-off symptom.
Always helpful. I bought my autel but I wasn't sure which one of their manufacturers brands to purchase for my t1n . Please would you tell me did you purchased dodge ? Or Benz? Or Benz sprinter?
Benz_Sprinter. Video coming soon on the set-up of AP200 for our vans, with tip about which to buy and why. Spoiler, one has lifetime download for Benz_Sprinter while the cheaper ones require $20 annual renewal for the download.
@@FloridaVanMan that is awesome I can't wait for you to make that content I did drained some money into this app and still having issues my vin is not matching. Showing up different car ugh😀
But thank you again for everything you do
I purchased the Autel AP200 from your amazon link. I have a 2005 T1n freightliner sprinter. It says not supported when i enter the VIN . Do i need a different scanner?
Don't enter the VIN. We have a video showing set up and first use. Skip the VIN and manually select Sprinter in the menu.
Excellent video. I have a 2021 Leisure Travel Van (Unity) which is built on a 2020 Sprinter 3500. It has less than 12000 miles on it and haven't had any issues until now. Drove it from OH to FL in December, no problems at all. Came home, parked it in the driveway, and it hasn't started since. I push the ignition button, all the lights on the dash come on, it does the oil check, etc, but NOTHING happens. Doesn't even try to crank. Everything else (lights, radio, etc) seems to work fine with the ignition on. I've tried all 3 key fobs, checked all the fuses. Very frustrating. My next step is to call Mercedes road-side assistance and hope I still have some coverage. :( Any ideas outside of what you already have in this video?
I've only touched one 2020 and don't have any relevant experience with no-start.
Any tips for a 2003 sprinter? They don't have an in tank fuel pump? How can you tell if the engine is getting fuel? Thanks!
An air leak is the most common reason but it could also be an issue of fuel getting there, just not holding enough pressure to start the van. We have videos showing leak-off test for the injectors and fuel rail, but first look for air bubbles in the clear fuel lines. One-on-one assistance is offered via Patreon membership floridavanman.com/donate/
hi great vid how do you connect your phone for diagnostics. thanks
For a Sprinter we use this AP200: amzn.to/2GD04Ft Don't get the red one. It will need annual renewal at $19.99 but the one I linked will give you one free download for life. The download you want is Benz_Sprinter. And after making note of all the codes, clear them and drive to see what comes back. The new codes are all you need to worry about. The ones that don't come back may have been there for years, or caused by a low battery giving insufficient voltage to many sensors.
I had zero instruments and I needed a new negative lead to my battery and engine body
I would suggest getting a tinned cable 35mm gauge minimum
Good video. You can tell that the person knows what he is talking about.
Did anybody see the issue with fusebox that is under the steering wheel? I turn key, but there is no lights on, untill I press on the fuse box, lights starts flickering and eventually turns on and I can start the engine. I installed brand new fusebox and still getting the same issue.
Occasionally the ECM fails in this way, but if you pressing on the fuse box effects it there must be a problem close. I would be looking at all things added after the factory. Any radio rewires, alarm or extra power wires.
Good morning sir. I have a 2003 2500 sprinter and my van won’t start. My van doesn’t have a fuel pump relay under the seat like your video I think cause older. Any suggestions where it would be at?
The starter relay is under the driver seat and you should be able to hear & feel it click when turning the key to start. We could check the contacts with a volt meter to ensure you are getting voltage to it in each position. Next time it doesn't start, try putting the gear sector in Neutral to try again. Be sure to use the brake and don't forget to put the van back into park if it doesn't help. Many folks have reported issues with the fuse block under the steering wheel. This fault can be isolated by holding the key in start position while giving the fuse block a good Whack!
hello sir, i'm an american in france with a 2004 mercedes 208 van issue. my van has always started. it cranks over, gives me an indication that it wants to start but does not engage. i noticed that the water sensor plug was not connected, in fact it's the wrong filter. could this be the problem? i'll try the fuel pump vibration in the morning, it's 9 o'clock pm here in europe. thanks for your video, you gave me a few tips to try tomorrow. cheers
Fuel filter sensor wire is only an alarm for water in the filter, so that is no big deal although it being disconnected will put a dash light. If you have a MAF sensor, unplug that. We have a video on testing the MAF. If the van still tries to fire occasionally but generally just cranks the most likely culprit is fuel pressure. Search our videos for "Leak-off" and you will find three videos. Two test the injectors and they show the same test on different motors types. The other is a rail leak off test. A failing injector will make starting very difficult but a failing rail pressure valve will often cause no start at all.
Going down wolf creek pass into Pagosa at the end?
I have a '04 with 222K and it has been having starting issues all winter (long cranks and didnt want to start when it was wet out) the other day i was flying down the highway at 80mph and i heard a sound (over the music and road noise) like something lost pressure (sort of like a blow off valve sound) and instantly the van lost power and died, and now just cranks with no fuel delivery. I pulled codes with a CR Plus :
p0087 Fuel Rail/System Pressure - Too Low
p0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range
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Do you suspect that to be the High Pressure Fuel Rail or Fuel Pump? How do you replace the in-tank fuel pump? It was a $350 tow, so trying to find some used parts which take longer to obtain. I will go through your checklist of culprits.
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Thanks amazing video, not sure how you got such clear image under the van!
A sudden rush of air escaping is common sound when a turbo hose fails. There is a bit of humor with information in this video. th-cam.com/video/pa9kLnPdJA4/w-d-xo.html