How To Rebuild The Mopar A833 Four Speed Transmission! How It Works, Common Issues, And More!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ม.ค. 2023
- Today's video is an in-depth look at the Mopar owner's favorite performance transmission - the A833 manual four speed. To complete this rebuild, I utilized parts from Brewers, an excellent book by Jamie Passon of Passon Performance, a factory service manual, and an excellent video made by @ifixmycarmyself2502. In total, the project took about three days. Although the process is relatively straightforward, there are certainly some intricate details that require care and attention. Now that the transmission is done, the next step is to reinstall it into the 1971 Plymouth 'Cuda it belongs to. Look forward to a test drive to verify I did a good job in a coming video. @rocketresto
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Here's a tip. I was having problems like you did installing the main shaft and the front synchro falling apart. I used a zip tie to hold it together while jiggling everything together. Once together I simply cut and removed the zip tie. Boy was that simple. I put that transmission together back in 1986 and it still works great! My first time doing one by myself. I had only watched a friend do one a couple months earlier. I'm over 70 and wouldn't want to pull that heavy beast again so I'm glad it's still working. 😊
I went from knowing absolutely nothing about transmissions to knowing "something" lol. I'm far from a mechanic so I really find vids like this interesting. Thanks for the clear footage and explanations. Found those factory tool sets exceptionally cool.
This was really good.
Straightforward, and shows some of the difficult areas and tools needed.
And of course, you are U-tube Certified....
Hope it gets a ton of views.
NP435 rebuild could be another- plenty still in use.
I even have a couple that could use some love. I need to learn those for sure.
Just watch this . I always wanted to take the 833 apart. Seems not to bad. Thank you for going over this.
And…. Subscribed! Nice video. Needle bearings give me the shivers. The person who developed caged needle bearings should have won a Nobel Peace prize.
Great video. Being a retired Chrysler tech, I would recommend using Vaseline to hold all needle bearings in place. Some grease DOES NOT mix with 80/90 lube and can actually block lube from getting to the bearings. Be sure to lube orings and seals with grease. I’ve noticed through the years that factory seals will come with grease in them, where aftermarket will come dry. I always enjoyed building transmissions, automatic or manual. Good knowledge to have.
Yes - the guide I was using also recommended Vaseline as an option. I ordered a tub of assembly lube (why does no one stock that anymore?) but I didn’t get it in time. I had done some reading and had decided that this would mix with the gear oil. Hopefully that was the right call. I have only ever been stressed out by automatics, but I would definitely like to get more comfortable with rebuilding them. It comes up often enough. On lip seals, I have read that they are supposed to be installed dry many times. I don’t know enough to say which is correct, but if a seal comes pre-greased, I’m sure leaving it on there.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I’d say the reason that no one stocks it, is because it’s basically Vaseline with a red dye in it🤔. Chrysler 3 speed automatic transmissions are one of the easiest if not the easiest to build. Once you watch someone build one, you wouldn’t have a problem with them. Go watch a few videos on it. The overdrive trans in another game altogether. There is an 800lb spring in the overdrive unit that has to be compressed to disassemble and reassemble it. But like I said, 3 speed is easy peasy. Cleanliness is important with automatic’s and always replace the torque converter as they can be loaded with trash due to the failure. Turbo 350’s are pretty easy too, but you need some special tools for them too. Just watch some videos and tear a few apart and you will get the hang of it 😀.
I have done several A833s in the past. I remember having the best results getting that tail housing and main gears into the main housing/input gear horizontal on the bench. Dad had some really old grease that was really stiff, it would help keep those roller bearings in place.
Red and tacky worked pretty well, but that makes sense.
Great video they used to be a guy back in the day named four-speed all you could go to his house and get any four speed part you needed or have it rebuilt his kitchen had four dishwashers he used them to clean all the transmission parts his house wreaked of transmission oil his house was packed with four speeds all on shelves some rebuilt some for parts and he was reasonable he was busy thanks for the video
This is a great video. There were too many parts in the trans I had that needed to be replaced so I took my core to Brewers and got a rebuilt trans. Works great.
Awesome! Great way to go. I like those guys.
I remember in high school in the 70s, a buddy lost a gear in his 67 VW bug. I looked at the shop manual and told him it was a shifter fork, which it was. I used to be able to visualize the gear movement and engagement in my head after looking at the diagram. Well, that's gone now. Brings back a lot of memories though.
Diagrams help, but it’s a lot more helpful for me to get my eyes (and grubby hands) on things in real life and wrap my head around them.
Great job. And thanks for doing this video. It brought back so many memories of the one I rebuilt way back when I was a teenager. I encountered all the problems you did, only I had no manual, no photos, and no special tools. But with a broomstick, sockets, long heavy flat screwdrivers, an ice pick, various hammers and many improvised tools I finally got the job done. The worst part for me was waiting weeks for parts. And my shift forks were worn very badly. I could not get new ones through the "direct connection". So I had them welded up and machined back down to the proper thickness at a local shop. Oh the fun I had. Amazing what I still remember about that job more than 40 years ago. Thanks again man. Also I'm sure this will help many people.
Yeah by that metric this was way too easy. Haha. It’s great having access to all of the rebuild information, and even better having the access I now have to the factory tools. I’ve always been the “do it how you can” guy, but am enjoying being a “the right way” guy these days. Even so, I have a lot to learn - and always will.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I'll bet this video gets alot of views.
This is an amazing video! Thanks love your content. I proposed the valiant I own in a previous comment but have since decided to hold on to it and finish at least getting it running. Your shop is amazing, mesmerized by all those factory tools you have collected. You get to work on some awesome stuff!
Really great explanations and detail- clear and straightforward
Favorite youtube channel hands down. Thanks man!
Ahhh, my car being a factory 4-speed, this is exactly the video I need! (I still may farm it out to Brewer's Performance when the time comes, but who knows...)
Great video, I will be doing mine myself as i do everything myself, for me it’s about the challenge and pride in getting it done and done right, what one man can do, another can do!
You mentioned GM trucks with A833, and when you set it up on the bench, I thought, "That sure does look a lot like the Saginaw 3 speed in my 68 C10."
80-87 GM offered the overdrive 833 in half ton trucks.
Great video! Thanks for the help. I've never done this before either.
Just finished rebuilding an NP440 (GM), which shares a lot of similarities to the a833. Your video was helpful as a reference. 👍. Subscribed
My friend needs to rebuild his 833 in his 73 duster. I forwarded him your video and just purchased the book.
These tools are awesome. Treasures of the past!
One important disassembly tip that was missed. Always file the slots on the shift levers BEFORE pushing or tapping them out of the side cover. These levers get hammered thru hard shifting and will create a lip on the slot that will score a groove on the inner bore of the side cover. This will result in leaks that are hard to repair. BTW The hole in your glove is getting bigger......
Great tip! They pretty much fell out of this one with no effort so I think I got away with it - but I will watch for that moving forward. Yeah… the holes on the gloves never get smaller. It’s fine, they’re only almost $30 a box 🥲
Love how you explain what fits what. Or certain models have this...
Some say babbling but it's great TV and ty
Thank you, another awesome video!
Tech tip on the ball bearing install. Heat the bearings. I prefer a non-induction hot plate or toaster oven. I keep the bearings dry so I can handle them with welding gloves. Some people in our shop prefer an old fry daddy with transmission oil, but that means handling the bearing with pliers. Have a hammer and brass punch handy just in case. Heat the bearings to somewhere around 200 degrees F. Have the shaft near. Pick up bearing and quickly install onto the shaft. If the bearing doesn't drop all the way home, tap it down, using the hammer and punch. Work quickly because, with the bearing and shaft being metal, the heat will transfer quickly, and you will lose the advantage you had. Done right, no press, and very little to no hammering need to be done. Do it wrong, well, you were going to press it on anyway.
BTW, about the induction hotplate. You might think to set the temperature and set the bearing on it. Easy peasy, right? The problem is the bearing doesn't fit over the induction coils and the temperature sensor at the same time. I figured I would trick it by putting some sheet metal on the hotplate and put the bearing on top of that. Apparently, the induction waves work far better on the bearing than they do on the sheet steel. That bearing got VERY hot VERY fast. I overheated the bearing. I highly recommend a conventional hotplate.
Fascinating complexity 😎
Nice work dude 👍
Great video. Thanks
New drinking game- take a drink every time Jamie says "that's not important."
Oof… that’s almost as bad as the regular DDG drinking game, where you drink every time I trip over my own tongue.
@@DeadDodgeGarage It might not read that way, but it was meant as a compliment. I’m a fan of your work.
Excellent video, Editing must have been a pain.
For autos vaseline works just like the red and tacky grease 👍
Editing takes up *so* much time… it’s nuts. Yeah! I’ve heard Vaseline is a good choice for this.
I have found that leaving the input shaft retainer for last makes it a whole lot easier when installing the mainshaft assembly. That extra 1/4" movement forward makes all the difference. The mainshaft just falls in place, and the input rollers don't fall out.
I’m going to try that on the next one! I could definitely see that little bit of movement making the difference.
I bought a 77 camaro done up like a 70 split bumper, with a 350 and the awesome and not prone to failure at power levels a lawn mower produces Saginaw 4 speed. Now it was nowhere near done when i got it and as i was in the military and living in an apartment complex, the manager of said complex told me i could keep it their for a week and make arrangements then it needed to disappear. So i did the responsible thing and took the plate from my recently sold mustang, slapped it onto my new to me charriot (im from pa and this was in Delaware) and rode dirty as hell all the way up to the mountains in Pa. I was aware that the 1:1 4th would cause high rpm on the highway but my god trying to do 65mph was scary as hell. By the time i pulled up my dads driveway that motor sounded like an ashmatic sewing machine. But that, at the time, 40 plus year old sbc did 2hrs of 3k rpm while puking oil everywhere and antifreeze leaking from the wp weep hole😅
There's nothing like a '71 'Cuda 4 speed!
Wonder if bacon grease would work...
Glad to see you using a file. That's what I was thinking of doing.
Your shop looks a lot like mine. I keep a lot of boxes empty and with stuff in them too.
We took a piece of cardboard and put holes for the bolts in the same pattern as the side cover. I also put parts in plastic bags if necessary.
That technique works, the bolt positions are important - but I think there are only three longer bolts, and only one with the long shoulder. Easy enough to see where those three go. I had actually planned to show how I check which bolt goes where when assembling things in this video, but… I forgot. Everything gets bagged and tagged in our shop if it’s going to be apart for any amount of time beyond a project like this. As far as bacon grease, well, I’ve never put anything together with it - but it’ll definitely smell better…
@@DeadDodgeGarage My experience is that what starts out as a simple job that won't take that long ends up being a months long possibly nightmare job so I've learned that even if something is going back together in a couple of days I bag and tag everything. I'm just not that experienced and many times I'm working with numbers matching vehicles. Sometimes I get help from an enthusiastic Ford guy who has a hard time grasping the importance of "original" and tends to throw parts in a box without labeling them.
M-m-m-m-m-m. bacon!
It's a great video! Can you show us how much end play or slop the input shaft has now and a audio of the new front bearing before you install it? I have a early 69 roadrunner 833 sitting in the garage that sounds terrible when turning it by hand .
Yeah that’s very common. I see noisy input bearings all the time. I did try to show the ‘normal’ slop after replacing it toward the end of this video.
I'm convinced that I must have one behind the big block in my 73CHARGER hope it will work with the bench seat all the way forward (I'm short) i think that it would turn the fun factor up to 10 in the car
Nice!
This is awesome
Thanks!
Any videos on the clutch fork & clutch pedal linkage? That's where I'm at now. 🤔
I did a video series called “The Three Pedal Solution” last year. It’s in a playlist on my channel. I do think I covered the linkage to some degree, but I honestly can’t remember in much detail. I think I will do a video on the subject in the near future! It’s something I mess with a lot.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Yep. Z-Bar parts I need are end of video #3. Should be able to get everything from Brewers. Thanks!!!
If doing work on a 1970 with A833, you need to check the actual build date of the car, some were built late 69 for the 70 model year. There was a change in the synchronizers from 69-70 that will ultimately cause issues.
Interesting. Good to know.
If only we could solve more fitment problems in life with a BFH! (Bigger F***ing Hammer)
I redone my 69 18 spline using a old chilton manual....just for reference a tailshaft housing from an 1982 d150 is the same as a 69 B body lol..even has the same part number
Should be the same as ‘70 B/E with the dual shifter mounts. I don’t know when they started using that in B bodies exactly - but either way, functionally equivalent! The forward pad is what B body uses. Those dual pad units were in trucks and vans for as long as there were A833 overdrive four speeds.
Did you take note of the blue 3 digit number on the gearbox housing?
It looked like it was "389" if so could that be a factory marking for the gearbox to be matched up to a 389 ci v8 orange painted engine possibly.
Just asking because I am from the UK and we use cc / cubic centimetres,plus our manual rear drive gearboxes are direct selector meaning our gear stick goes into the gearbox and operates the selectors through a ball and socket style bar selector built into the top of the gearbox.
I’m not sure what it means, but it definitely isn’t engine displacement. There was no displacement that would’ve matched that.
Ok, I did a quick search and learned it was the ‘picker number’ used at the factory to quickly ID which four speed was which, as there were several variations in production at any given time.
I believe you mean internal rail shifter, like a Morris minor box. The 5.0 Mustang T5 is similar.
Theirs is a good chance that the gear you swapped will bind. The groove lines on the gears have to match. The one you installed has no lines. Put in second gear and see if it turns smoothly.
It turns great.
Why aren’t needle barings magnatized? Wouldn’t that make assembly easier?
Your channel is great.
The shaft would have to be magnetized, not the needles. If the needles were magnetized, they couldn’t all be polarized the same way or they would attach to the shaft, but repel away from one another. At least if I’m thinking about this right. The good news is grease works, and there needs to be lubrication in there anyway.
How much wear on the 1-2 shift fork before you have to replace it?
Great question… they all seem to be pretty well worn. I can’t really say at what point they need to be replaced.
Does that book cover the GM version of this transmission?
Yes, it’s essentially the same, excepting the GM input and special tail housing. My brother bought the book to overhaul a GM unit, funny enough.
So... Even if the transmission is in neutral some of the transmission internals are still spinning while the clutch is not depressed?
Absolutely. This is a constant mesh transmission, which means the input shaft, the gears, and the whole countershaft will be rotating at all times when the clutch is released. Power just isn’t applied to the output shaft in that position. This is why you will hear gear rollover noise when stopped, and also why really super toasted overdrive four speeds make noise when at a rest and the clutch is out - but the noise goes away when you hit the pedal.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks for taking the time to answer and explain. I appreciate that.
I'm picturing a cold start, with the starter not only turning the engine but also the guts of the transmission while the oil is cold and thick...unless the person holds down my clutch at startup.
Reverse is also the only straight cut gear, correct?
Yep. There are three straight cut gears that make up reverse - one on the countershaft cluster, one on the 1/2 shift collar, and the sliding reverse idler.
Great content 👌 a lavalier mic might be helpful.
That’s been in my plan for a long time, but somehow I haven’t gotten around to it. I am still filming almost exclusively on an iPhone, which doesn’t really jive with external mics - at least with the stock camera app. Anyway there is some science involved. I need to figure this out sooner or later.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Lol you'll get it. You very obviously have all the right stuff to build a highly successful channel (if that's anything that interests you).
How do I fill up oil ? Some leaked out when I pulled it out
The fill plug is the square headed plug about halfway up the main case on the passenger side. There are pumps available at the parts store to get fluid back in.
@@DeadDodgeGarage how much do I put in ?
@DeadDodgeGarage what type oil ? It's 833 chrysler 4 speed .
@@proracing9025Fill it until the oil starts to overflow out of the fill hole. Jamie mentioned to use GL4 80W90 oil.
Wish you'd shown how to get the new clips in because I can't get them to work. They are nothing like the originals. That's why someone used alternate clips. Whatever they sent me is not going to work. Also wish you'd shown how the levers go on and exactly how they are supposed to fit on the studs.
Which clips?
What gear oil does these take? I have a 69 roadrunner with one of these and I need more fluid in it but I don’t know which one to get…
Several different fluids have been used in them - ATF apparently being one the factory used. As I understand, the best fluid is a GL-4 spec gear oil. GL-5 apparently lacks an additive that helps to protect the softer synchros. So look for an 80w-90 or similar that specifically says GL-4, but you may want to just drain whatever’s left in there and fill it. It should take around 2.5-3 quarts, if I am remembering correctly. My brother has used a concoction of Royal Purple gear oil and Lucas additive. Sounds expensive.
@@DeadDodgeGarage thank you 🙏
The capacity is 3.75 Quarts of 80W-90 GL-4 gear oil
@@Sir.Veza_ I was googling it and it said to use 85w-90 should I go with the thicker or thinner weight?
@@robertpursley4907 Reason being there are many old car enthusiasts living up in more northern climates where their car is stored for the winter, 80W-90 will remain stable until -14F. However 85W-90 will start to turn into gel around 10F. Notwithstanding if you live in sunny So Cal or a Southern state it's a non issue. MAKE SURE IT'S GL-4 though.
How's the Charger coming?
Blue ‘73 Charger? Just got back from paint! See the 451 stroker video for engine build info and shots of the car. There are several other Chargers around, I’m just guessing you meant that one. Lol.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks for the update - I was asking about the '68 you bought and drove home in the rain...no wipers, I'm familiar with that!
PS Great video!
@@richardweyland116 Oh, thaaat Charger! Haha. I really haven't done anything but drive and enjoy it since the last video I released. I changed the gears, fixed the charging system for a second time, and started daily driving it last summer. It needs a few little things - mostly tires that don't rub. Currently I'm doing other things so mostly ignoring that. I've had it out twice so far this year. Love that car.
I'm a big 340 fan I love that little bulldog I do love big blocks but they don't call the 340 the big block killer for no reason I was thinking on putting one in a Durango or should I go 383 what you think you've don't some swaps you think I could stuff a 383 in there or should I go 340 right now it has 360 magnum and it's 2 gen I think 2001
A 383 would be…. Challenging. The 340 will bolt to the transmission but doesn’t have the mount bolts that the Magnum uses, so some science would be involved.