I just swapped out both front shock mounts on my '98 R129 after noticing they were severely cracked. A simple and quick job that is a major improvement in ride quality! The harshness of road impacts is gone and the car rides like new again. Most importantly, the vibration from 60-80 is now gone! I chased that for months and it was the mount the whole time. My car still had the dust caps over the upper shock nut and it took me a while to figure out that it just lifts straight up for removal. Thanks for posting this video.
Trust me when I say this, you do not want this to break. if it does break it will leave a nasty dent going upward in the hood. Mine broke and has been sitting ever since because I thought this would be super costly, thank you for posting this. If anybody's starts to crack save the hassle and fix it.
I have a 1992 300E and it needs these replaced. Now I've never done car work (besides unplugging my tail lights/headlights to check bulbs and adding fluids) but this video makes me pretty confident I could do this with relative ease. Great tutorial!!
Thanks for the video! Did mine, RHS went smooth, LHS was more tricky. To sum up: Big nut is a 22mm wrench. Much needed. Small nut is 10mm Installing new one is tricky: first secure new mount with 10mm nut, then aim for inserting shock in the middle guiding it with extension. I used Meyle mounts.
Hello Fupabox, I really enjoy your videos. Beware of the Moog strut mounts. I installed a pair and the left one lasted about 4 months and the right one for about another week. They left two bumps on my hood that I had fixed at the body shop. The packaging says made in USA but that's just the box they come in. If you look on the inside of the mount they will say made in Taiwan. I replaced those with Corteco mounts and have had them for about two years with no problems.
Thanks for the video! The R129 is a new platform to me; being a VW and JDM guy before getting my boyhood dream car. I did have a couple W116s, but they are nothing like this. As far as other cars, I have had 5 of 7 generations of the GTI, a Cabriolet, Jetta, Preludes, Integras, GS300, list goes on... A few American ones too. Anyway.... I kept the wheel on and on the ground with the car partially lifted. Had a hell of a time wrestling the old mount out and getting the new mount in, but all in all, it was an easy job. Just a pain in the butt. Second side was easier than the first because of the "lessons learned". Next is the idler arm bushing repair kit and rear suspension kit. Then "test drive" to the dealership for a proper alignment. I had a mechanic friend replace the inner and outer tie rod ends, front lower control arms, steering damper, and stabilizer bar bushings. Next will be the rear suspension.
Thank you for this great guide! Awesome tips to leave the wheel on. I having been looking around for a 2nd jack, but with this method it wasn't necessary. about 1 hr in total, including borrowing 22mm wrench from my neighbor. 1992 200TE
Hi, thanks for the video exactly what I needed. I did as you said but had a problem and managed to shear and snapped off one of the 13mm bolts on my new mount (have only two now on and tightened), do you think this third bolt is crucial to the mount integrity, could I running happily with two only?
Amazing videos as always. Any idea about r129 v12's? I'm trying to convert the ads suspension to a dry suspension of a sl500...any advice? Good idea ? Bad idea? Thanks
Unfortunately , I have no experience with the ADS system, so I have no real world advice to give you ..Try one of the Mercedes forums. They must have someone who has done a swap for the conventional suspension
you should take off the wheels its easy i replace on my 500e w124 mercedes and i took off the wheels and its took me about 5 min to replace and put it back by the way what mercedes you work on?
Based on how easy it snapped and the weight of the car basically doing the majority of the job holding the mount in place and the large metal retainer on top stopping it dropping through if the suspension gets fully extended, I hoped the bolts are merely a supporting function. It also sheared with enough threadbolt to aid in any torquing (sidey ways movement). They just seem too flimsy and simple to be taking much load?
very helpful clip.i cheated my mounts out by removing all appears ok. i have a metallic knock when driving over uneven road surfaces coming from the front end of car reduced when under breaking any ideas on what to check. cheers
I have a 99 Mercedes sl500, would this also apply to the model I have, it’s very similar to the part with one exception, it has a cap that cover the screw that your removing in the beginning? I have no clue how to remove it, please help.
to check the ball joint you just need to jack the car up and then squeeze the balljoint upwards with a large set of slip joint pliers..you can also watch closely for movement as you raise the car there should be no movement as the wheel leaves the ground...the bushings can be replaced without removing anything but the 2 13mm nuts on the bushing end cap
Have you ever have problems on that center nut getting loose after driving for a while (a week or so)? When the nut is loose, it makes a small banging sound when going thru bumps. That's when I know it's loose again. It's kinda annoying and maybe dangerous. And it does that no matter how hard I tighten (maybe not hard enough?) the nut. Just wonder if you happen to know about this issue. And it's an R129 too. :)
I just noticed that I have rust that has eaten through almost 2/3 around the driver's side shock mount. Is this something that a good welder could fix? If so how much should I expect to pay out? Thanks.
Did this to my r129 today. I have a clunk when im pulling up my drive way during an incline or during steering randomnly. Sway bar bushings, or ball joints, or idler arms what do you think lol thanks
Thank you for your posting this. I am also replacing front struts as well. So I unscrew bolts from bottom of strut then unscrew the strut mount. I jack up the car then take out both the strut and mount. And put it back in reverse. Would it work?
essentially yes... just don't jack the front up too far... there is a small chance the spring can pop out if you lift it too high with the strut unbolted
I am having some trouble finding a strut mount for my 2012 GLK 350 well I can get one at the dealer but I am looking at over 200 bucks which I think is madness!! Any suggestions?
The top engine cover that contains the air filters has several different types of posts and spring clips that hold it on . At the rea there are 2 large posts that the cover slips under and the cover has 2 U shaped clips that slide under the posts . , and at the front there are 2 spring clips that lock into the filter box /engine cover . I found this forum post with all the clips and mounts shown and part #s listed www.benzworld.org/threads/m119-airbox-rear-mount-attachments.1411899/
DO NOT BUY MOOG! Look at the bottom of the part and you will see that they are made in Taiwan. I installed a pair and they both broke within 2 months leaving 2 bumps on my hood. Replaced them with a set from Corteco and have been on the car for about three years with no problems.
yo i just changed both of mine on my 2000 sl and at first i had a pair of uro but i over tightened one of the nuts on accident and ordered a blistein one so now i have a uro one and blistein one on the other side also i used blue threadloc can this be bad?
threadlock is perfect . Always use blue threadlock on suspension and braking components. The 2 different brands could be slightly different size due to different moulds. But should be OK. Watch the URO for cracking rubber as they has issues in the past . Otherwise I think it's cool
Fupabox, I did this replacement with Febi Bilsteins today due to a cracked right mount (no other issue or symptom) but my first back out of the driveway and I got a major clunk suddenly from the struts over the curb - almost sounds like they're loose or bottoming out - but the nuts are quite tight. I might be able to get more - but how far do I go with that center nut? I don't see a torque spec. I stopped when they were tight not wanting to over crank. I don't want to drive the car until resolved. Any help?
15 ft lbs for the 3 small nuts and 60 ft lbs for the large center nut . The car needs to be sitting firmly on the ground when tightening. check that the spring didn't turn when the shock was installed , or that the spring is centered on its seat . Also check to make sure the bump stop (rubber snowman) is still on the shock shaft
Thanks for the help. With further troubleshooting I have found that it is an off-quality part. Getting so hard to keep track of aftermarket quality anymore. Thanks for your videos - they are so extremely helpful to many like me. Need some more on the R129!
@@fupabox Cheers for the video. Quick question, are your tourque settings accurate for an early r129 also? Where did you source them. Going to attempt this next weekend. Many thanks
fupabox I have the same care and it sounds like the drives haft is rubbing the floor. I replaced motor and transmission mounts. Do you think the shocks could let the car that low. It has 95k miles one it. Thanks
+Bob Muse the other possibility is the bushings that hold the rear differential to the subframe... I have never seen them go bad, or the center driveshaft bearing support..does it thump under acceleration and then go away when the car is at a steady speed ?
+fupabox Yes it does rib when starting out to hard. Even when driving at at any speed and if i give it to much gas it rub. It was bad to start with and got worse after replaceing motor and transmission mounts. I thought it was hydraulic issue because I need to replace O rings in hydraulic cylinder. Where do you buy the kits? Thanks for your help.Bob
***** the hydraulic seals can be purchased from mbseals.com I am pretty sure your driveshaft center support bearing is bad.. they aren't very expensive, but require drive shaft removal to replace..when you changed the engine mounts the orientation of the driveshaft to the differential was altered a tiny bit, and accentuated the wobbling in the bearing..the support bearings usually go bad more quickly in hot climates where heat from the pavement speeds up the grease drying out
***** The shocks and struts last quite a long time on these cars..Only if they are bouncy bottoming out ,or leaking, or if some store has a great sale on shocks. The computers are all under the hood, in front of the passenger side windshield..there is a big square plastic cover right beside the hood hinge...5-6 phillips screws hold the cover down
im hearing a clunking noise when turning my steering wheel back and forth from the front end. and i hear a mettalic click every time i come to a stop. any expierence with this noise. i have noticed my strut mounts are cracked a bit aswell.
It could be the mounts , sway bar end bushings, any part of the steering linkage or mounting bolts for the steering box, loose wheel bearing or loose wheel lug nuts. It could also be a loose caliper, or brake hardware. Unfortunately, a whole lot of possibilities
+fupabox i think its one of the steering components. i noticed it screwed my alignment a bit too haha. prolly because ive been driving it like a maniak recently haha
Fupabox, my name is Travis and I have a 1996 r129, that has leaked convertible driver side main cylinder . Currently the hardtop is on, can you please show me how can I manually remove the hardtop, thanks.
Thanks for the video, great stuff. I just replaced the strut mounts on my R129 following your instructions. Just one, question, are there any on the back? Please let me know if there are any and if you are going to post a video on how to replace those. Cheers.
you probably dont give a shit but does anybody know a tool to get back into an instagram account?? I was dumb lost the login password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me!
@Dakari Merrick Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and Im in the hacking process now. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
They're big in Japan from what I have read . The Japanese generally don't put cheap parts on their cars .. So yes .. I have never personally used them though
Hi, thanks for the video exactly what I needed. I did as you said but had a problem and managed to shear and snapped off one of the 13mm bolts on my new mount (have only two now on and tightened), do you think this third bolt is crucial to the mount integrity, could I run happily with two only?
Hi, thanks for the video exactly what I needed. I did as you said but had a problem and managed to shear and snapped off one of the 13mm bolts on my new mount (have only two now on and tightened), do you think this third bolt is crucial to the mount integrity, could I run happily with two only?
+fupabox hey I own a mercedes sl320 r129 aswell I have afew problems with it the driver side window does not drop slightly when opening the door or when closing also where is the egr valve on it its the 320 engine but I can't find it please could you help, I've been inspired by your videos and have done my strut mounts aswell but there bloody hard
+Aqueel Ali The EGR is on top of the exhaust manifold..it is attached to it by a couple of metal tubes, and has a rubber vacuum hose on the top...looks like a shiny round flying saucer with tubes coming out. The window drop could be a few things... if the battery was dis connected you will need to reset the roof and window limit switches...open end close the windows normally, but hold the switch a further 15 seconds after each window has gone up or down fully... this will let the computer recognize that the window has reached its limit in either position... it must be done for up and down on each window... then do the same with the roof switch... hold the switch while the roof raises and lowers , and then hold in that position another 20-25 seconds after the roof has opened and closed. The other possibility is a sticky switch inside the door lock mechanism that recognizes you have pulled the handle to open the door... spray some lubricant into the door mechanism, and open and close the door several times to work the lube in
Thanks verry much I'll have a go at the roof reset g procedure I've done the windows already and no help, also I've research afew 320 and they all have the egr valve on top of the manifold apart from mine it's just the manifold without and egr valve or vacuum lines
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I just swapped out both front shock mounts on my '98 R129 after noticing they were severely cracked. A simple and quick job that is a major improvement in ride quality! The harshness of road impacts is gone and the car rides like new again. Most importantly, the vibration from 60-80 is now gone! I chased that for months and it was the mount the whole time. My car still had the dust caps over the upper shock nut and it took me a while to figure out that it just lifts straight up for removal. Thanks for posting this video.
Trust me when I say this, you do not want this to break. if it does break it will leave a nasty dent going upward in the hood. Mine broke and has been sitting ever since because I thought this would be super costly, thank you for posting this. If anybody's starts to crack save the hassle and fix it.
same here, 01 sl500
I have a 1992 300E and it needs these replaced.
Now I've never done car work (besides unplugging my tail lights/headlights to check bulbs and adding fluids) but this video makes me pretty confident I could do this with relative ease. Great tutorial!!
Thanks for the video! Did mine, RHS went smooth, LHS was more tricky.
To sum up:
Big nut is a 22mm wrench. Much needed.
Small nut is 10mm
Installing new one is tricky: first secure new mount with 10mm nut, then aim for inserting shock in the middle guiding it with extension.
I used Meyle mounts.
Hello Fupabox, I really enjoy your videos. Beware of the Moog strut mounts. I installed a pair and the left one lasted about 4 months and the right one for about another week. They left two bumps on my hood that I had fixed at the body shop. The packaging says made in USA but that's just the box they come in. If you look on the inside of the mount they will say made in Taiwan. I replaced those with Corteco mounts and have had them for about two years with no problems.
thanks for the warning...Moog used to be very good quality, but I guess most of there companies could care less about quality anymore
Thanks for the video! The R129 is a new platform to me; being a VW and JDM guy before getting my boyhood dream car. I did have a couple W116s, but they are nothing like this. As far as other cars, I have had 5 of 7 generations of the GTI, a Cabriolet, Jetta, Preludes, Integras, GS300, list goes on... A few American ones too.
Anyway....
I kept the wheel on and on the ground with the car partially lifted. Had a hell of a time wrestling the old mount out and getting the new mount in, but all in all, it was an easy job. Just a pain in the butt. Second side was easier than the first because of the "lessons learned". Next is the idler arm bushing repair kit and rear suspension kit. Then "test drive" to the dealership for a proper alignment. I had a mechanic friend replace the inner and outer tie rod ends, front lower control arms, steering damper, and stabilizer bar bushings. Next will be the rear suspension.
Nice... it's a cool car .. you'll love it .
Thank you for this great guide! Awesome tips to leave the wheel on. I having been looking around for a 2nd jack, but with this method it wasn't necessary. about 1 hr in total, including borrowing 22mm wrench from my neighbor. 1992 200TE
Just picked p my R129! Thank you so much for all these resources
Very welcome!
@@fupabox Sadly my shitbox is in dire need of pretty much everything.
@@AnthonyBoettcher24 lol...little by little you'll get it perfect.
@@fupabox Trying my best! I tried messaging you on twitter in regards to your experience on the R129 but that doesn't seem possible.
@@AnthonyBoettcher24 I only check twitter a few times a week . If I see the message I'll definitely respond . Give it another try
Thanks for the video ! I order the parts for my 97 SL500 .
No problem 👍
Great video! I have a sl 320 and there are very few DIY videos . Your video was on the money.
Hi, thanks for the video exactly what I needed. I did as you said but had a problem and managed to shear and snapped off one of the 13mm bolts on my new mount (have only two now on and tightened), do you think this third bolt is crucial to the mount integrity, could I running happily with two only?
Amazing videos as always. Any idea about r129 v12's? I'm trying to convert the ads suspension to a dry suspension of a sl500...any advice? Good idea ? Bad idea? Thanks
Unfortunately , I have no experience with the ADS system, so I have no real world advice to give you ..Try one of the Mercedes forums. They must have someone who has done a swap for the conventional suspension
you should take off the wheels its easy i replace on my 500e w124 mercedes and i took off the wheels and its took me about 5 min to replace and put it back by the way what mercedes you work on?
onillino nimateelah do you still have your 500e?
Amazing work man, well done! Thanks a lot for the video, I learnt a lot. Bye, Alessia.
Based on how easy it snapped and the weight of the car basically doing the majority of the job holding the mount in place and the large metal retainer on top stopping it dropping through if the suspension gets fully extended, I hoped the bolts are merely a supporting function. It also sheared with enough threadbolt to aid in any torquing (sidey ways movement). They just seem too flimsy and simple to be taking much load?
+Chis Chis Just my opinion..I wouldn't drive it with just the 2 bolts holding it on. I'm overly cautious, I wouldn't take the chance
very helpful clip.i cheated my mounts out by removing all appears ok. i have a metallic knock when driving over uneven road surfaces coming from the front end of car reduced when under breaking any ideas on what to check. cheers
sway bar end link bushings or lower ball joints is my guess
I hope I can do this myself because thats my only choice! Get back with you if I have a problem.
i have the same problem and was the idler arm, you have to buy the idler arm repair kit and the noise is history. :D
perhaps a higher viscosity hydraulic oil in the strut would provide slower rebound thus giving him time to remove the mount.🔧
I have a 99 Mercedes sl500, would this also apply to the model I have, it’s very similar to the part with one exception, it has a cap that cover the screw that your removing in the beginning? I have no clue how to remove it, please help.
do you have the air suspension ?
@@fupabox not sure what that means, the suspension is connected to the lower arm thrust, I wish I could send you a pic, is that an option here?
thanks .to check tees out will i have to remove the coil and shock
to check the ball joint you just need to jack the car up and then squeeze the balljoint upwards with a large set of slip joint pliers..you can also watch closely for movement as you raise the car there should be no movement as the wheel leaves the ground...the bushings can be replaced without removing anything but the 2 13mm nuts on the bushing end cap
Have you ever have problems on that center nut getting loose after driving for a while (a week or so)? When the nut is loose, it makes a small banging sound when going thru bumps. That's when I know it's loose again. It's kinda annoying and maybe dangerous. And it does that no matter how hard I tighten (maybe not hard enough?) the nut. Just wonder if you happen to know about this issue. And it's an R129 too. :)
I just noticed that I have rust that has eaten through almost 2/3 around the driver's side shock mount. Is this something that a good welder could fix? If so how much should I expect to pay out? Thanks.
that's a bit scary..anything can be fixed if you spend enough....I would think it could be fixed for a few hundred dollars
Did this to my r129 today. I have a clunk when im pulling up my drive way during an incline or during steering randomnly. Sway bar bushings, or ball joints, or idler arms what do you think lol thanks
could be any of the above.. only way to know is to get under and check... could also be tie rod ends or wheel bearings as well
ein danke schön, und ein lieben gruß aus solingen, sl r 129 🔧🤗🍂
Thank you for your posting this. I am also replacing front struts as well. So I unscrew bolts from bottom of strut then unscrew the strut mount. I jack up the car then take out both the strut and mount. And put it back in reverse. Would it work?
essentially yes... just don't jack the front up too far... there is a small chance the spring can pop out if you lift it too high with the strut unbolted
Thanks!
I am having some trouble finding a strut mount for my 2012 GLK 350 well I can get one at the dealer but I am looking at over 200 bucks which I think is madness!! Any suggestions?
sorry for the late reply.. long hours at work over the weekend... try "rockauto" or "peachparts"
Great info! THANK YOU! Do you know what the bolts that hold on the engine cover are called or what to do if they break off?
The top engine cover that contains the air filters has several different types of posts and spring clips that hold it on . At the rea there are 2 large posts that the cover slips under and the cover has 2 U shaped clips that slide under the posts . , and at the front there are 2 spring clips that lock into the filter box /engine cover . I found this forum post with all the clips and mounts shown and part #s listed www.benzworld.org/threads/m119-airbox-rear-mount-attachments.1411899/
@@fupabox You're an angel! 😇Just what I was looking for!!!
@@brynabryna glad to help
DO NOT BUY MOOG! Look at the bottom of the part and you will see that they are made in Taiwan. I installed a pair and they both broke within 2 months leaving 2 bumps on my hood. Replaced them with a set from Corteco and have been on the car for about three years with no problems.
MOOG .. damn .. another solid name bites the dust. Getting hard to know who to trust for parts
yo i just changed both of mine on my 2000 sl and at first i had a pair of uro but i over tightened one of the nuts on accident and ordered a blistein one so now i have a uro one and blistein one on the other side also i used blue threadloc can this be bad?
shit the bumb stop?? did i have to take it out and put it the strut mount????? or leave it as it is on the shock??????
threadlock is perfect . Always use blue threadlock on suspension and braking components. The 2 different brands could be slightly different size due to different moulds. But should be OK. Watch the URO for cracking rubber as they has issues in the past . Otherwise I think it's cool
have you ever worked on a 190E W201 88? I need to change both of the strut mounts but I never worked on Mercedes (VW and AUDI only).
eviltango do you still have the 190e?
how do i tell if i have hydrpuenmic suspension/self leveling suspension. i dont think i have either im about to replace my strut mounts on my 95 sl500
there will be an air hose coming from the top of the shock inside the engine compartment
fupabox ok cool thanks
sorry about the repost says it has a problem try again, so I did several times😀
That's ok .. I figured something like that had happened
Any torque spec?
Fupabox,
I did this replacement with Febi Bilsteins today due to a cracked right mount (no other issue or symptom) but my first back out of the driveway and I got a major clunk suddenly from the struts over the curb - almost sounds like they're loose or bottoming out - but the nuts are quite tight. I might be able to get more - but how far do I go with that center nut? I don't see a torque spec. I stopped when they were tight not wanting to over crank. I don't want to drive the car until resolved. Any help?
15 ft lbs for the 3 small nuts and 60 ft lbs for the large center nut . The car needs to be sitting firmly on the ground when tightening. check that the spring didn't turn when the shock was installed , or that the spring is centered on its seat . Also check to make sure the bump stop (rubber snowman) is still on the shock shaft
Thanks for the help. With further troubleshooting I have found that it is an off-quality part. Getting so hard to keep track of aftermarket quality anymore. Thanks for your videos - they are so extremely helpful to many like me. Need some more on the R129!
@@fupabox Cheers for the video. Quick question, are your tourque settings accurate for an early r129 also? Where did you source them. Going to attempt this next weekend. Many thanks
fupabox
I have the same care and it sounds like the drives haft is rubbing the floor. I replaced motor and transmission mounts. Do you think the shocks could let the car that low. It has 95k miles one it.
Thanks
+Bob Muse the other possibility is the bushings that hold the rear differential to the subframe... I have never seen them go bad, or the center driveshaft bearing support..does it thump under acceleration and then go away when the car is at a steady speed ?
+fupabox
Yes it does rib when starting out to hard. Even when
driving at at any speed and if i give it to much gas it rub. It was bad
to start with and got worse after replaceing motor and transmission
mounts. I thought it was hydraulic issue because I need to replace O rings in
hydraulic cylinder. Where do you buy the kits?
Thanks for your help.Bob
***** the hydraulic seals can be purchased from mbseals.com I am pretty sure your driveshaft center support bearing is bad.. they aren't very expensive, but require drive shaft removal to replace..when you changed the engine mounts the orientation of the driveshaft to the differential was altered a tiny bit, and accentuated the wobbling in the bearing..the support bearings usually go bad more quickly in hot climates where heat from the pavement speeds up the grease drying out
+fupabox Do you think I should change the shocks and struts too. Second questions: where is the computer on my car?
***** The shocks and struts last quite a long time on these cars..Only if they are bouncy bottoming out ,or leaking, or if some store has a great sale on shocks. The computers are all under the hood, in front of the passenger side windshield..there is a big square plastic cover right beside the hood hinge...5-6 phillips screws hold the cover down
im hearing a clunking noise when turning my steering wheel back and forth from the front end. and i hear a mettalic click every time i come to a stop. any expierence with this noise. i have noticed my strut mounts are cracked a bit aswell.
its coming from driver side
It could be the mounts , sway bar end bushings, any part of the steering linkage or mounting bolts for the steering box, loose wheel bearing or loose wheel lug nuts. It could also be a loose caliper, or brake hardware. Unfortunately, a whole lot of possibilities
+fupabox i think its one of the steering components. i noticed it screwed my alignment a bit too haha. prolly because ive been driving it like a maniak recently haha
fupabox i replaced the steering gearbox you think incorrect torque will cause a clunk?
Fupabox, my name is Travis and I have a 1996 r129, that has leaked convertible driver side main cylinder . Currently the hardtop is on, can you please show me how can I manually remove the hardtop, thanks.
th-cam.com/video/U6BrsM3ilj8/w-d-xo.html
@@fupabox ty. I played around an got it open, my next project is to repair the leaked cylinders.
Thank you very much!!
Thanks for the video, great stuff. I just replaced the strut mounts on my R129 following your instructions. Just one, question, are there any on the back? Please let me know if there are any and if you are going to post a video on how to replace those. Cheers.
you probably dont give a shit but does anybody know a tool to get back into an instagram account??
I was dumb lost the login password. I appreciate any tricks you can give me!
@Franco Jonas instablaster ;)
@Dakari Merrick Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and Im in the hacking process now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Dakari Merrick It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much, you really help me out !
@Franco Jonas Glad I could help :)
Cool... Thanks again.
would you trust ta technix on your sl?????
They're big in Japan from what I have read . The Japanese generally don't put cheap parts on their cars .. So yes .. I have never personally used them though
@@fupabox im getting that brand for my suspension what kind of strut brand you recommend
JOHNY FUMES bilstein is best .. Gabriel,Monroe I have used without issue and generally 1/2 the price
@@fupabox bro your jesus when it comes to r129 love it !!!!!! this car seems so easy to do work to
by the way i knw about mbz E,S,C CLASS a lot so if youll have some quest about some repair feel free to ask ok?>
Drug mb r129
l
Hi, thanks for the video exactly what I needed. I did as you said but had a problem and managed to shear and snapped off one of the 13mm bolts on my new mount (have only two now on and tightened), do you think this third bolt is crucial to the mount integrity, could I run happily with two only?
Hi, thanks for the video exactly what I needed. I did as you said but had a problem and managed to shear and snapped off one of the 13mm bolts on my new mount (have only two now on and tightened), do you think this third bolt is crucial to the mount integrity, could I run happily with two only?
+Chis Chis I wouldn't drive it with 2 bolts...it just won't have enough strength to resist the torque when steering
+fupabox hey I own a mercedes sl320 r129 aswell I have afew problems with it the driver side window does not drop slightly when opening the door or when closing also where is the egr valve on it its the 320 engine but I can't find it please could you help, I've been inspired by your videos and have done my strut mounts aswell but there bloody hard
+Aqueel Ali The EGR is on top of the exhaust manifold..it is attached to it by a couple of metal tubes, and has a rubber vacuum hose on the top...looks like a shiny round flying saucer with tubes coming out.
The window drop could be a few things... if the battery was dis connected you will need to reset the roof and window limit switches...open end close the windows normally, but hold the switch a further 15 seconds after each window has gone up or down fully... this will let the computer recognize that the window has reached its limit in either position... it must be done for up and down on each window... then do the same with the roof switch... hold the switch while the roof raises and lowers , and then hold in that position another 20-25 seconds after the roof has opened and closed.
The other possibility is a sticky switch inside the door lock mechanism that recognizes you have pulled the handle to open the door... spray some lubricant into the door mechanism, and open and close the door several times to work the lube in
Thanks verry much I'll have a go at the roof reset g procedure I've done the windows already and no help, also I've research afew 320 and they all have the egr valve on top of the manifold apart from mine it's just the manifold without and egr valve or vacuum lines
Aqueel Ali No EGR.. Odd . are you in a country that had no pollution controls when the car was built ?