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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- How to rebuild the front windshield hydraulic latch cylinders on a Mercedes R129..W124 models rear latch and more recent clk are very similar..The seal kit was from Konstantin Belov at MBseals www.mbseals.com/
He was really good to deal with and shipped very quickly..he uses an upgraded seal that will resist the leakage problems the original seals have..The latch cylinders are very easy to do yourself,unlike the main cylinders which would be better left to a professional rebuilder...I can not stress enough that you purchase the correct hydraulic fluid from a Mercedes dealership when topping up the fluid. follow me on twitter / fupabox
Thx for this tuto which helped me to stop a very bad leak on my 1991 R129. Good job !
Sincere thanks; yet to experience this issue on a 98 SL500 but it's only a matter of time - great to know this reference is here for DIY
Greetings,
Just wanted to share a quick story with you and let you know that this video is a lifesaver (metaphorically...lol). I have a 97 SL purchased brand new all those years ago. She's in great shape and I'm rather fond of this car, but she is getting old. That being the case, I was having lunch with a good friend just yesterday (he works for MBZ...) and since it was an 80 degree spring day here in California, I dropped the top to enjoy life. Then, I committed a "cardinal sin" by mentioning that I hadn't had a hydraulic failure with my soft top during the life of the car...and I raise/lower that top "alot"! Well, lo and behold, no later than 10 minutes after I took him back to the dealership and I'm cruising with the wind, I notice hydraulic oil on my left leg. You've got to be kidding...Yep, I lost the hydraulic seal on the top latch. After one stern "f-bomb" out loud, I figure that I'll just replace them.
Upon calling my friend at the MB dealership and having to wait for him to finish laughing, I realized that buying replacement latches was NOT the way I was going to go! Actually, really no surprise there eh?
Anyway, here I am thanking you for the video and the referral to "mbseals". Based on your info, I'm confident that I can easily rebuild these units. Your video is clear and full of valuable info...as I mentioned earlier...a "lifesaver" ;-)
Your time/efforts spent on putting together this/these videos in genuinely appreciated. Major kudos to you!!!
Thank you again.
Warmest regards,
Marty
Kite Yoda Very welcome..just 1 hint in case I didn't mention it in the video...when you pop that spring clip out, have a rag sitting on top to keep the clip from launching itself into space :) good luck with the repair....
***** Yep, I got that message from reading some of the other comments ;-) Don't you just love spring clips. FYI, I just ordered the seals from Konstantin @mbseals and they're shipping tomorrow. Thanks for the parts referral too. I'll let you know how the rebuild goes...
Kite Yoda excellent..yes let me know how it works out for you
Great video!!! Gave me the confidence to tackle myself. The clip rings are the hardest part and I found clamping the hydraulic valve between 2 blocks of wood in a vise you can tap the small screw driver with a mallet or rubber hammer and more easily remove the clip. Even though we tried to cover the ring with a shop rag to prevent it from going airborne, it flew across the shop and landed in a canoe hanging from the ceiling. If we hadn't heard it we would have never found it!!!!
a canoe...lol yeah you are lucky you heard it
I rebuilt the rear latch cylinders on my 1997 SL500 using Belov's seals. They worked great. I first ordered a rebuild kit from eBay, and what I got was a handful of useless o-rings. Belov's seals are expensive, but they work. The first side took me probably 3 hours. The second side took me probably 30 minutes. The only thing I could add to this video is a trick to unscrew the pistons from the latch mechanism. They were so tight, I could not get enough leverage with a 7mm open-end wrench to break them loose. I ended up clamping Vise Grips over the jaws of the wrench to get enough torque on the rod.
appreciate the tip
Ok, two things to add...The right side rear latch was the one on my car that was leaking. When I got it replaced and tried it out, the left side leaked. Belov says replace the seals in pairs (i.e. L and R). That advice was spot on.
Not all of the piston rods use a 7mm. One on my car needs a smaller wrench, I don't know if its 4mm or 5mm because I cannot find anyone selling any smaller than 6mm. Any tips?
I just did the job. Not too bad. The spring rings are a bee hatch to get out and the 7mm/10mm piston disconnection was on much tighter than anticipated (no sign of any thread lock either).
I ordered the whole kit as my left rear lock cylinder is blowing fluid too...at least I have all other seals as they’ll eventually leak too (‘99 SL500).
yup..those spring clips are the worst
B.J.Murray - very well done video and a great help. One small variation with my 2000 SL500 is that there is a second small screw on each end of the windshield cover UNDER the rubber molding. After removing the first exposed screw from the rubber molding itself, you need to lift it up and away from the cover to see and then remove the inside brass screws on each end; otherwise, the cover could be damaged or not able to 'slide off' at all. One gets to see and appreciate some of the more exotic and precise engineering of their Mercedes in achieving an exceptional soft top (and matching hard top) operation. Until this minor maintenance, mine has worked perfectly for 15 years. Thanks for your contribution.
Thanks for the info on that screw,
Hey, hey,
UPDATE..I rec'd the seals from Konstantin at MB Seals w/in 48 hours of order. Thanks! Just finished the rebuild of the cylinders and all is AOK. Everything went smoothly (watch those spring clips...lol). Candidly, very simple to perform...especially with your video. That's a good thing...
One minor note...I have a 97 SL and along with the mentioned "post cap" screw and the "latch surround" screw, there are an additional two screws, per side, that need to be removed. The first screw is on the roof rubber gasket about an inch below the post cap (don't worry....its really obvious), and the second is under the rubber itself. Although hidden, just lift the rubber. It is very easy to remove also.
Again, thank you for the video and the referral to mbseals.com. Major kudos to you...Warmest regards,
Kite Yoda Glad it worked out, thanks for the good info on the newer model difference. :)
Kite Yoda I cannot get the spring clips out they are in there. I have tried a lot of different screw drivers and pics. I started marring the area a bit. I'm worried I'm not going to be able to get this out. Any help would be great!
Andrew Bryan Hey Andrew, If you're marring the clip area, probably a good idea to get some help. When using a pic/screwdriver to get out these type of "C" clips, make sure that you pry at either end of the clip itself to get it out of the groove. I'm sure that you've done that, right?
These type of clips can be a pain because there isn't a special tool specifically for this (Unless a screwdriver/pic can be called a special tool).
Nonetheless, giving you credit for trying the obvious ways so we don't repeat everything here, maybe you should just take the cylinders to the local auto shop and have one of the techs help out and remove them.
Be aware, however, that he'll probably use some sort of pic/screwdriver method too for these clips.
Bottom line....the clips are out 8^)
FYI...when reinstalling the clips, thoroughly clean the grooves the clip sits in.
Best wishes...hope this helps
I also have a 97 , this MBseals site is a bit confusing can you tell me the part number you ordered from him? thank you
Excellent and instructive video. Better than any Haynes manual that I ever have read! I will renovate the cylinders on my 500 SL with help from your video this spring. Thank You from Sweden!
very welcome
Thanks for posting! I bought the seal kit from mbseals and installed them today. Working fine now! One of the screws on the top plastic cover won't tighten all the way but everything else is great.
+Dan Lutnick excellent.. glad it worked for you :)
How are the seals holding up?
Muneeb Ajmal still working Great!
Awesome video, I wish TH-cam had more quality and detailed info like this.
thanks...glad it helped
Thank you! Just what I needed for the lock removal from the cylinder!
Glad it helped 🙏
Great job! Here's a link for the proper hydraulic fluid ... the febi for $9.44 and the MB for $14.40 per liter .... the full tank holds a little over 1 liter if you desire to replace it all while you're at it .... Thanks for the video!
great video! I completed the rebuild the other day. It wasn't that difficult. I spend more time taking it apart then changing the seals but it was worth it, nothing leaks anymore and everything works fine. When unclipping the ring be carefull it flies to oblivion, lucky i found it.
Thanks!
Lol..Those clips are surprising..I think mine went about 20ft in the air... :)
Going to be doing this to my sl500 soon very helpful
Thanks a lot for this amazing video. It helps so much to follow up the rebuild of my 92 R129. Well done!
Just changed the seals in my 1997 320sl. The video made it pretty easy to accomplish. I just had trouble finding a 7mm thin wrench. But I found a slightly larger non metric that did the job
WHERE DID YOU GET YOUR SEALS FROM AND HOW LONG DID IT TAKE YOU TO COMPLETE? MINE IN MY 1997 SL 320 ARE NOT YET LEAKING. iN YOUR OPINION SHOULD I wait until they leak or do it asap?
Excellent write up. Mine is currently leaking and did not want to spend on a brand new cylinder.
Hi
Just wanted to let you know that the problem with my 2000 CLK soft top was only a broken wire from the tonneau cover going up and down. Apparently a common problem. Thanks for all the great videos!
Glenn
great to hear you got it fixed , and the problem was a minor one
This is an excellent video, thank you for posting. I rebuild my hydraulic cylinder watching this video. Thanks again.
Do you have a video on how to bleed the system after fixing the O ring?
Fupa. This weekend you saved me $1600. Can't wait to hit the button tomorrow. Need fluid first. Any direction or sources you know on doing the rear lock, let me know. That's next. Again, can't say thanks enough!!
glad it helped...which lock are you referring to ?
Well, the mechanic I used to diagnose the issues said its 1298002172 but I ordered 129800072 and took that from another diagram. Today I got into the fluid. I was bone dry. There was maybe a tea spoon in the reservoir. Filled it to the max line with MB fluid and ran it through a cycle. It's all good until the top hits the top locks where it won't seat and won't go any further. Is it possible that my top locks are manually opened or locked and they can't function? Also has a drop of fluid come down the a pillar. Scratching my head a bit. Any thoughts?
Jared Cowan
the fluid coming down the pillar could be left over from when it leaked...there are no manual parts at all on the top..it is possible the controller for the hydraulic top has a bad circuit in it...depending on the year of your car there are micro switches on the latches to that will only allow them to lock when it knows the top is all the way down or up...if one of those micro switches isn't operating properly the next step in the raising /lowering sequence won't be initiated..I haven't delved deeply into any of them yet ,but I have a project SL in the driveway with some hydraulic top issues..I will post anything I find may be helpful
I'm surprised there isn't some type of seal that goes between the lines and the cylinder... Metal to metal seams like it would leak
That’s the beauty of Mercedes engineering in those days . The absolute finest tolerances . Most things with a tapered compression fit require tightening torque to complete the seal . These have a simple clip . Engineering porn 😁
Thank you for the video!
very nice video. detailed and easy to follow. Thanks!!!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome Vid man....Even I COULDN'T MESS THIS UP!!
it did not have a new seal for the piston? does not seem to be a very `compleat` seal kit :/
Hello, I have a question, can I replace the regular O rings ones available in the market, or do I have to install a special one or different ?
Excelent job on this ! Thank you!
Just done my seals, thanks for the video :)
Removing the clips holding the hydraulic lines at 2:35 to 5:25 - do not loose those clips!
Thank you
You're welcome
tanks you are the best.
maybe you can use a vacuum cap to plug the line so it doesn't leak, or a piece of hose with a screw at the end of it, to avoid a lot of hydraulic fluid leaking
Raul Romo yes , a good idea when unhooked to cap them some how..I like the rubber tubing idea..be very careful since they are precisely machined to fit and seal into the cylinder.there are no other seals for the lines
Awesome video! Are you located in California? Would you like to replace my seals on my sl500!
Hi this is Robert, I appreciate all of your videos. For some reason I cannot find the seals for rebuilding the convertible hydraulic latch on my 1998 Mercedes 500sl. your video on rebuilding that unit was exceptional.
Do You have a source where I can purchase those new seals?
Thank you in advance for helping me and again I appreciate all of your work and putting these videos together..
Robert
www.mbseals.com/
thanks alot for allllll that info, could u show us how to change the rear hydraulics seals it would be great help!!!!
As soon as I have a chance to rebuild some I will video it.
thanks alot ur a life saver!!! lol God bless
excellent video
Great video. I have a leak underneath the top itself on both sides on a 95 Sl500, any videos on repairing that by chance?
no sorry..I haven't had to rebuild those yet
I can open the roof on my vehicle perfectly but when I close the roof I have a small problem. It closes but the last part of the back glass doesn't close all the way. It leaves a 2 inch gap. I checked the hydraulic oil and there is no leak. I would appreciate any help.
will this info work on a chryhsler crossfire whic is a 320 mercedes ????
Had to heat up cylinder shaft to loosen. 7mm wrench messed up shaft. smoothed shaft. everything worked OK.
I came close to that but it finally released before rounding.
Nice job you explained everything extremely well!! And thank for the link to be able to order the o rings ans main seal👍
excellent video, I have a 2001 SLK 230 Kompressor with the hardtop convertible and I need to either rebuild the top latch releases or replace them. (one or both were leaking) after watching the video I believe there shouldn't be much issue. but my question is do you have any idea what part number I would need ? I looked on the mbseals.com but couldn't find my car model. Would the soft tops use the same as the hardtop ?
love the jean cut offs man.
dammit, no one is supposed to see my summer garage shorts..not for public consumption... lol
Great Video fupabox, those main seals you were refering to as leaving to a professional, where are they on the car/top mechanism?
2000 CLK 430 convertible, the top operates
correctly until closing. It works fine until the rear window goes to latch and it sounds like the tonneau cover unlatches, the window latches but then the trunk won't open and the red lift button lights up, signaling something is wrong. Any thoughts? Thank you for all the great videos.
Glenn
I don't have any experience with the w208 convertible, but if it is mostly the same as the r129 I would assume there is an issue with the limit switch on the windows or whichever function precedes the trunk opening.. A Star diagnostic would pinpoint the problem in a few minutes, but try a reset first.. using the included tool in your trunk and the instructions in the owners manual , raise and lock the roof manually..turn the ignition on and lower and raise all of your windows with the window switches. On all the windows press and hold to lower and continue holding the button to lower the window for an extra 10 seconds..do the same for each window and then raise each window and hold an additional 10 seconds. This teaches the computer and microswitches .to recognize full up and full down position of the windows
+fupabox Thank you for your reply. Will try the reset. .
For those of you out there that see this comment, I posted a long video on how to remove the W124 dash and how to replace the vacuum actuator pods for the climate control. th-cam.com/video/0SU6CFb0W7s/w-d-xo.html
Just trying to spread the word. Note that there are only 2 PN's left of the 6 PN's that are available from Mercedes or aftermarket. On the dual diaphgram pods you can buy one of the two pods that are available, remove their arms (white plastic just snaps it on), and you can take off the old arm from the old pod and transfer it to the new pod. NOTE: This trick only works on the dual diaphgram pods. Last resort you can get just the rubber diaphgram inside the pod that you can replace at a place called Performance Analysis in Tennessee, although you can't order on their website. You have to call them. Their part numbers for the two different diaphgrams are 2010 and 2020. On the W124 and W126, you can use one of their diaphgrams on the "center" pod, which is a single diaphragm. They are inexpensive, not sure how long they will be in business from the conversation I had with them. . Get a bunch and store them the rest of your life!
Literally just did this to my R129. Thank you so much! Now, if you'll excuse me, I'm going to go take a shower as I sprayed the hell out of myself pushing the piston in. -_-
lol
I tried the reset on my CLK 430 soft top and had no luck. Now the front windows won't go up at all. The rear windows work fine. The top continues to show a malfunction when trying to close. Any suggestions? Thank you!
Glenn
Damn.. unfortunately , the Star scan from the dealership or independent shop with the scanner is about the best I can suggest ...sounds like a window position microswitch or roof controller
Good job!!! Thank you for a very detailed and clearly explained video, excellent!
Do you have video on rear main lift cylinder for 1998 sl500?, thanks
***** thank you for the video, but what about the 3rd seal? which is at 11:10 under your right thumb.
Dokepredator I somehow missed this comment..sorry.. The seal on the end of the piston from what I have read, rarely fails... if it does there are no leaks, just lower internal pressure
this is a great video. I cant seem to get the soft top to come up. is there a special procedure to make it work?? thanks
+Raul Romo does the switch blink when you try to raise the roof ?
I only feel that the switch can be moved back, I think that's to unlock the top. I have to try again. read up that the doors have to be open and windows down before you attempt to put top up
+Raul Romo back is to lower the roof, forward is to raise it..the windows should be down, doors can be open or closed
thanks will try again
+fupabox If the key is on when you unlatch the top, the windows are supposed to go down automatically. If you get a flashing light on the top's switch, open the trunk and make sure the top protector is fully forward and the latch is secure, as there is a sensor (micro-switch) that stops it from operating. Also, if the headrest in the back are raised at all, it won't operate, either. When you had your leak, you might have lost too much fluid (hydraulic oil) and it needs replaced.
hey thank you for your response but that company is telling me $800 that they want just sell the seals do you have any other suggestions on where I can purchase the seals
I did the rebuild, and no leaks, but cylinders didn't seem to work anymore. I did remember to refill the reservoir. I actually sucked it all out of the reservoir and cleaned it as much as possible, and put new OEM Mercedes fluid back in. tried it a few times, didn't seem to unlatch or make much noise. weird
+Raul Romo it may take a few tries to get the air bled out of the system hopefully the pump is working properly..what year is your car ?
1994 SL600 Mercedes
You may need to manually unlatch and lower the roof with the roof tool in your trunk .. Then do the power window reset (engine running ). The power window reset is lower each window and keep holding the window button down for 10 seconds after it is down.. Then do the same raising the windows. Then ,with the roof now down, ( engine still running) and windows down .. Pull the roof switch back as if lowering the roof and hold for 10 seconds ... Release . And pull back and hold for another 10 seconds. Then try closing the roof with the switch. If it starts raising and goes all the way.. Once it is up keep holding the switch forward for 10 more seconds to reset the roof . Sometimes you have to do it a few times
I will try that. thanks again
How do the lines seal? In the title you say a124 I assume w124. I have looking for a w124 cabriolet
Great video. I have been trying to remove the snap ring for a while. I can't seem to pop it out. I even have the same screwdriver. Any advice?
It's a bit of a pain to pop out..the first one actually ended up making a huge blister on my thumb from the multiple attempts to pry it out...the second came out in seconds..I saw another video a while ago on removing snap rings (unrelated to Mercedes ,) and the guy pried at the closed end of the snap ring directly opposite the opening, he explained that it took less prying force that way because both open ends moving together towards each other halved the required force to pop the clip out..also keeps the ring from being chased around in the groove as you try to get under the end..it seems to make sense,and it worked well on the hydraulic cylinder I was working on
I got them out! The first one took forever, a trip to see if my neighbors could help. I finally found a bent up screwdriver that I should have thrown away, but it worked perfectly. The ring shot across the garage. The second ring took less time than it took me to find the first one! Only seconds. Just waiting on the replacements now. Thanks!
Steve Buck
any time :) glad you got it
Hi I have a 1995 Sl320 my problem on my soft top is the last part where the soft top is meant to drop down to go to the lock in does NOT go Down any suggestion if i pull down and push does close and lock in place the rest of soft top works fine Thanks
Try resetting the sequence on the soft top...once it is down and locked away start the car and hold the roof switch in the top down direction for 30 seconds.. then with the button raise the roof and hold the button for a further 30 seconds once up.. that should reset all the microswitches and relays and get them into the proper sequence.. if at some point the top was manually raised part way the controller/sequencer for the roof can get confused... It is also possibly a bad or unhooked microswitch on the roof.. or a weak solder joint in the roof controller..But the reset is free and easy to test , so it's always worth a shot
I have the same problem with my mercedes clk, where can I find those rubbers to replace? without having to buy a new part in mercedes.
Thanks
Thanks for the Video. Great help!!
Great DIY!! Thank you!! 🤙
What's the size of the seal?
After the cylinder is leaking up there how do you get the top down to get out the cylinder
th-cam.com/video/MuVH4tzV9TQ/w-d-xo.html&lc=z22xzjwj5ruuizx2iacdp43bvof1syr5wsgyzgi5apxw03c010c
Thank you for trying!
Hello, great video, I have the same problem with my R129. Where can I buy the repair kit? Or can you give me the exact measures? Thank you very much
+Umberto Chiacchio There is a link in the description under the video
I cannot get these snap rings out for the life of me. Any tips?
Not really..just to use a rounded small flathead screwdriver . It's a bit if a struggle for sure
The hell?? This is so easy... doing this now...
great job
thanks
Where to buy етот the complete set? Can give the address where to buy
Hi great video mine just started leaking (right side) so I'm in the process of taking them out, I couldn't undo the cylinder for the life of me (7mm /10mm wrenches) you seem to get it fairly easy unless you have loosened it off camera? mine is so tight I cant get it to loosen, any tips thanks
actually mine was loosened off camera to be sure it would come undone then retightened, wasn't much tighter than when removed on camera though... If I remember correctly the other side was much tighter and required a good amount of torque to remove..They are installed with threadlocker on the threads so they can be tough to unbolt
Yea I was just reading on the "Top hydraulics" website which is a rebuilt service in Oregon, that you have to soften the thread by either using a heat gun , acetone or overnight WD40, I do have a heat gun, but I'm worried how much heat to apple I even have the one with the small nozzle for electric board rework which I can focus the heat perfectly on it, but then again what temp do I set it and how long to heat for is not clear, so I opted for the overnight WD40 if that doesn't work I will ship them to Top Hydraulics and bite the bullet and pay the a little over $100 (he charges $50.00 a piece and I have to pay to ship it to him) instead of $20 for the seals and finish the job myself , oh well, still better then dealer's. hopefully tomorrow it would have soaken with wd40 and it would loosen up, crossing fingers.
BTW I love your channel, I have fixed many things on my car watching your videos, thanks
I didn't need any heat or WD40....maybe some were put together with permanent strength thread lock , which needs heat to remove
MBseal still carry this red seal?
Hey CW, I've got the leaking problem in my main lift and extension cylinder(right side) ..... uggg ...... would you recommend rebuilding both sides or just do all cylinders? Also, do you think for these main cylinders I could rebuild myself with MBseals or should I send them out? Are the seals the same as what TopHydraulics uses? Thanks for all of your invaluable info! DB
+kedocom There is a write up on the main cylinder on the mb seals site.. I haven't tried the main cylinder , but it looks doable..for the $50 for the 2 seal sets compared to several hundred to rebuild..my self I would give it a go. I'm not sure on the materials used by the 2 different companies
Thanks for the reply .... I might just give it a try .... I like the idea of being able to re-install it in short time as it's placement is still fresh in my mind rather than wait a week .... Cheers friend :)
just one more thank you!!
great video!
hello i'm leaking oil at windshield i believe the latches 2004 clk 500 i cant get ahold of the listed website do you know another option to get seals
www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/23-w208-clk
Hi, did you replace all the seals, how are they holding up?
I didn't need to replace all of them . I had new seal kits incase any started leaking but none did before I sold the car .
Where did you get your parts?
It's been a year, how are they holding up and did any others fail? Cheers
no problems at all..no new leaks...."knocking on wood" :)
***** Glad to hear:)
where can i get seal replacements?
seal kite foe
a chrysler crossfire ??????? where to buy
this guy has the seals or fully rebuilt cylinders
www.tophydraulics.com/57-chrysler-crossfire
your good bro
Where can I find the parts?
check the video description
Yes where can I buy the rebuild set?
Where is the link sorry don't see it
Jaime Plata
in the video description under the video.
www.mbseals.com/
damn it !! i wish that i have seen this before i had to spend 120$ for a guy to do mine for me QQ
allan wrench
Don't exist for 124 Convertible ...
Serge Bonkain It does..it is the same part used in a different spot on the W124.... on the W124 it is the rear bow lock ..exact same part #
+fupabox Thank you. I found it ... www.tophydraulicsinc.com/E320%20Hydraulic%20Cylinder%20Removal%20Manual.pdf
Serge Bonkain very welcome
***** I saw that the location of this cylinder is different in the 124 and I try to know how manually raise the soft top because my cabrio is in closed position ? ( Sorry for mistakes because I am Belgian ) Thank you so much
I'm sorry.. the w124 and r129 manual roof procedure is very different.. I'm not sure how it works
JORTS!!! Hahahaha
I was hoping no one would notice ... lol
Here's the link : www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=gyh3czfaalwifefjcv5aicy4&partnumber=0009899103
thanks...the Febi isn't available in Canada.. that I can find anyway.. So I just grab the MB stuff.. :)
I have opened up the latch cylinder area and cleaned up some fluid but didn't make any changes. After closing up, I am unable to completely close the roof. It stops when the roof is on the top of the window so it appears that the latching system in not finishing. The is a 1998 SL500. Any thoughts? Thanks
+Paul Carlson try resetting the top sequence .. pull back on the button to open the roof and then hold the button in that position for a further 30 seconds... then try closing
+fupabox Thanks. I tried it and it seems that the front is latching well, but the rear cover remains vertical.
Paul Carlson now that the front latches, do the reset again pushing the button to close and again holding a further 30 seconds...If it doesn't work, you may need to close it manually with the tool in your toolkit, and then do the reset in both directions with the button