Having a multi-phase way to approach the game is a great idea. I always like that you acknowledge there is more than one way to play this game and we can have different goals for different situations. Thanks for all you do for building the conversation and the community.
Thanks, DE. There’s a ton of ways to play this game. Sometimes you choose based on mood, bankroll, goals, or even who you are playing with. I like having the options
This Analogy is what makes craps so fun!! Constantly trying strategies and come out on top is such an experience. Please trying to influence dice is always fun too 🤓😂
TOO MANY Strategies that rely on "Big Rolls". But I REALLY LIKE hearing your logic and the way you think cause it helps me develop better ideas myself working toward after getting "On Base" with NO RISK but giving up a VERY SMALL Sacrifice that can be EASILY made back! Then the "GET EM" OVER stage would be again about VERY MINIMAL RISK and the "GET EM" IN Stage should be just sit back and Collect at ANY POINT till the 7 clears the board and you REPEAT with the Next Inning!!!!! Good Stuff John!
Glad it was helpful! My way of going now is basically this: Phase 1: $750 Across (all numbers pay $175 or $195) Phase 2: Regress to $160 Across (you've got about $15 in profit and all bets are paid" ... Now we take 3 hits and use 100% of the profits to press the numbers. I prefer to do that inside-out, but whatever you like. Just do an "all in" press for 3 hits. After the 4th hit regress again to $160 across. you'll have about $200 in profit in your rack. Congratulations, you've met your goal and still have $160 out there. It's 5 rolls total to this point, which is not easy by any stretch. Phase 3: Now, you're back at $160 across. Press to the ceiling. Collect at the black level and again at purple, but full press like maniac. You're already at your goal before starting this, so there's nothing to risk. If you catch a 10+ roller (or heck a 30 roller) you should be in amazing shape. But if it's a typical BS roll, after the first shot, you locked up a small profit and can breathe easily.
Thinking outloud ... collect the first hit be out on that number, then press (power) press for remaining 7-40 roll seems to me the best option. No? Am i thinking wrong... Thanks for the video!
The 66-88-44? The trick to it is starting over table minimum and having enough built into it so that you can come back and be square. So, the target is $66 Start at $110 inside Win is $35 Add $9 to press each up by 2 units - $154 inside (35/42/42/25) Win pays $49 Total in the table is $203 Regress to $66 inside (table min) Take $137 to the rack. You started with $110 and added $9 So you lock a profit of $18 and are out there with $66 in action.
@@RobertKalmowitz I have to think about it. But my initial thought here is the same where I’d go $25 on the don’t to start it. Press the win to $35 and then regress after hit 2 to $15. That should leave you with $15 on the layout. I’m $55 in the rack. $30 profit. That could be your “get’m on” With that $15 out there your next play could be to power press it or add a DC. $30 in action and your initial $25 still in the rack in case it goes south.
Never pull down a Don’t instead lay a complementary place bet example $13 DP .8 place $12 to weigh dollar win. Even better $65 DP .860 Dollar Pl. to weigh win five dollars versus zero.
Bob, Thanks for pointing that one out as well. This lecture is less about the proper math on these presses, but more about the stability of playing a game in 3 segments, with the lockdown points under consideration.
A better way to play small ball is, win 3 units ... on the comeout you play 75 dollars on the Don't pass line. once you established a number, you will play 150 dollars across, and 25 dollars on the field each unit is worth 25 dollars. If you shoot and the number is a [4 ] you have won 3 units , right their you stop BECAUSE you have won the 3 units you are looking to win, you won 2 units on the 4 and 1 unit on the Field. If you shoot a [ 4 ] you win 2 units. plus 1 unit on the field. units won [ 3 ] If you shoot a [ 9 ] you win 1 unit. plus 1 unit on the field. units won [ 2 ] If you shoot a [ 10 ] you win 2 units. plus 1 unit on the field. units won [ 3 ] If you shoot the [ 2 ] you win 2 units. If you shoot the [ 3 ] you win 1 unit. If you shoot the [ 11 ] you win 1 unit. If you shoot the [ 12 ] you win 2 units. Once you have Won 3 units, you will take down all your place numbers... except the comeout Number you have established, till you either 7 out, or throw the comeout number. Your friend from Puerto Rico.
Thanks for that breakdown, Jaime. Maybe I'll play this out as an option this week. I think it's a good way to showcase getting to goal. It's not necessarily a 3 phase way to play as I've been talking about, but this is an ideal approach to my "3 Unit Challenge" so I'm definitely going to put a pin in this one and showcase it. --- Question for you about how you play this ... If you're at the 3 unit win, do you up the place bet on the point as a full hedge? If you don't, you stand to lose back 2 on the don't should the point be hit. Assume you got lucky and hit the 4 immediately and profited 3 units and pull it all down other than the point, you'd have this scenario, if my math is right: Initial outlay: $75 DP, $25 Field, $150 Across = $250 In your rack: $25 + $25 from the field ($50), $25 + $50 from the 4 ($75) and 4 other bets pulled down ($100) = $225 On the layout: $75 DP and $25 on the point. If the 7 comes, you'd rack $150 from the bet and the win, making your profit $125. This would be optimal. If the point hits, though, you'd rack $25 from the place bet and $25 or more from win (depending on the point) making your profit about $35, which is 1 unit not 3 units. If you placed the point for $75, your rack would have $175 in it now, but you'd bring back about $150 (again, the point would pay a little more than an even $75), so your rack would have $325, for a profit of $75, locking it up. You could also just pull down the DP and lock it up as well, but you'd lose the chance to make some extra if the point gets hit.
@@ProCraps This system is to be played 100% the way I wrote it down, if you play it any other way IT becomes Another system. Your friend from Puerto Rico.
@@jaimegarcia7922 2 More Questions: 1. Are you playing the 6 & 8 at $24 or $30? 2. Do you continually feed the field in the case of the 5/6/8 hitting or is that just on the first roll? Leaving the place bet at it's current ($25) level and letting the point resolve itself, correct? Want to make sure that if I showcase this, I do it the way you specify.
@@ProCraps I play the 6&8 at 25 dollars. Yes, i continually feed the field $25 when the 5/6/8 hit, you must never forget to feed the field. Your friend from Puerto Rico.
THERE IS NO SYSTEM TO BEAT THE GAME@! PERIOD! THE VARIANCE ALONE WILL KILL ANY ADVANTAGE UNLESS YOU PLAY FOREVER AND HAVE THE PERPETUATED MONEY TO SUSTAIN! PAY THE DON'T SIDE EVEN MONEY ON BAR 12 WITH THE EDGE AND WATCH THE VARIANCE STILL KILL YOU IN THE SHORT TERM BEFORE MAKING ANYTHING. STUPID GAME NOT WORTH PLAYING! BELIEVE ME!!!
Curious... And IF there were someone out there who found a way or "system" if you will that definitively holds the overall edge perpetually over the casino, what would that be worth to you if it were the case???@@ProCraps
@@lifepro77777 Well of course. But so long as there's a house edge, and without being able to actually control the dice, that world does not exist. The random nature of dice, even with a betting edge makes it impossible to have an advantage. Now, if your 'system' and 'discipline' can combine so that you win more often than not (say 85%) and the 15% of the time you don't win, you aren't going completely bankrupt, you have a shot. Watch my Daily Paycheck series on CGTV. 80 shows in and we're well in profit. Not destroying the house, but consistent, becuase we have discipline.
Having a multi-phase way to approach the game is a great idea. I always like that you acknowledge there is more than one way to play this game and we can have different goals for different situations. Thanks for all you do for building the conversation and the community.
Thanks, DE. There’s a ton of ways to play this game. Sometimes you choose based on mood, bankroll, goals, or even who you are playing with.
I like having the options
This Analogy is what makes craps so fun!! Constantly trying strategies and come out on top is such an experience. Please trying to influence dice is always fun too 🤓😂
I'm always trying to find ways to make the complicaated stuff make sense for everyone
Love the idea of using first few rolls to get even and secure profit. Definitely something I would advise anyone to do
TOO MANY Strategies that rely on "Big Rolls". But I REALLY LIKE hearing your logic and the way you think cause it helps me develop better ideas myself working toward after getting "On Base" with NO RISK but giving up a VERY SMALL Sacrifice that can be EASILY made back! Then the "GET EM" OVER stage would be again about VERY MINIMAL RISK and the "GET EM" IN Stage should be just sit back and Collect at ANY POINT till the 7 clears the board and you REPEAT with the Next Inning!!!!! Good Stuff John!
Glad it was helpful!
My way of going now is basically this:
Phase 1: $750 Across (all numbers pay $175 or $195)
Phase 2: Regress to $160 Across (you've got about $15 in profit and all bets are paid" ... Now we take 3 hits and use 100% of the profits to press the numbers. I prefer to do that inside-out, but whatever you like. Just do an "all in" press for 3 hits.
After the 4th hit regress again to $160 across. you'll have about $200 in profit in your rack. Congratulations, you've met your goal and still have $160 out there.
It's 5 rolls total to this point, which is not easy by any stretch.
Phase 3: Now, you're back at $160 across. Press to the ceiling. Collect at the black level and again at purple, but full press like maniac. You're already at your goal before starting this, so there's nothing to risk.
If you catch a 10+ roller (or heck a 30 roller) you should be in amazing shape.
But if it's a typical BS roll, after the first shot, you locked up a small profit and can breathe easily.
Thinking outloud ... collect the first hit be out on that number, then press (power) press for remaining 7-40 roll seems to me the best option. No? Am i thinking wrong...
Thanks for the video!
There's no shame in same betting the first one. I do that quite a bit, but it does limit your ability to move quickly.
My 19 year old son is a math genius and you are demonstrating how he plays.
Most math based players advocate for the line bets with odds. But I also like to have options. And if I can make math and logic work for me, I will!
Good stuff, how would you do this on a $15 min table?
The 66-88-44?
The trick to it is starting over table minimum and having enough built into it so that you can come back and be square.
So, the target is $66
Start at $110 inside
Win is $35
Add $9 to press each up by 2 units - $154 inside (35/42/42/25)
Win pays $49
Total in the table is $203
Regress to $66 inside (table min)
Take $137 to the rack.
You started with $110 and added $9
So you lock a profit of $18 and are out there with $66 in action.
@@ProCraps what would be the on to play on the dont bet $15? Thanks, I plan on trying it on Thursday.
@@RobertKalmowitz I have to think about it. But my initial thought here is the same where I’d go $25 on the don’t to start it. Press the win to $35 and then regress after hit 2 to $15. That should leave you with
$15 on the layout. I’m
$55 in the rack.
$30 profit.
That could be your “get’m on”
With that $15 out there your next play could be to power press it or add a DC.
$30 in action and your initial $25 still in the rack in case it goes south.
Never pull down a Don’t instead lay a complementary place bet example $13 DP .8 place $12 to weigh dollar win. Even better $65 DP .860 Dollar Pl. to weigh win five dollars versus zero.
Thanks!
Wow! Thanks, Mike!
Not correct math on the 5 after up one unit but get the idea
Bob, Thanks for pointing that one out as well. This lecture is less about the proper math on these presses, but more about the stability of playing a game in 3 segments, with the lockdown points under consideration.
A better way to play small ball is, win 3 units ... on the comeout you play 75 dollars on the Don't pass line.
once you established a number, you will play 150 dollars across, and 25 dollars on the field each unit is worth 25 dollars.
If you shoot and the number is a [4 ] you have won 3 units , right their you stop BECAUSE you have won the 3 units you are looking to win, you won 2 units on the 4 and 1 unit on the Field.
If you shoot a [ 4 ] you win 2 units. plus 1 unit on the field. units won [ 3 ]
If you shoot a [ 9 ] you win 1 unit. plus 1 unit on the field. units won [ 2 ]
If you shoot a [ 10 ] you win 2 units. plus 1 unit on the field. units won [ 3 ]
If you shoot the [ 2 ] you win 2 units.
If you shoot the [ 3 ] you win 1 unit.
If you shoot the [ 11 ] you win 1 unit.
If you shoot the [ 12 ] you win 2 units.
Once you have Won 3 units, you will take down all your place numbers... except the comeout Number you have established, till you either 7 out, or throw the comeout number.
Your friend from Puerto Rico.
What do you think about my system to play the short game?
Thanks for that breakdown, Jaime. Maybe I'll play this out as an option this week. I think it's a good way to showcase getting to goal. It's not necessarily a 3 phase way to play as I've been talking about, but this is an ideal approach to my "3 Unit Challenge" so I'm definitely going to put a pin in this one and showcase it.
---
Question for you about how you play this ... If you're at the 3 unit win, do you up the place bet on the point as a full hedge? If you don't, you stand to lose back 2 on the don't should the point be hit.
Assume you got lucky and hit the 4 immediately and profited 3 units and pull it all down other than the point, you'd have this scenario, if my math is right:
Initial outlay: $75 DP, $25 Field, $150 Across = $250
In your rack: $25 + $25 from the field ($50), $25 + $50 from the 4 ($75) and 4 other bets pulled down ($100) = $225
On the layout: $75 DP and $25 on the point.
If the 7 comes, you'd rack $150 from the bet and the win, making your profit $125. This would be optimal.
If the point hits, though, you'd rack $25 from the place bet and $25 or more from win (depending on the point) making your profit about $35, which is 1 unit not 3 units.
If you placed the point for $75, your rack would have $175 in it now, but you'd bring back about $150 (again, the point would pay a little more than an even $75), so your rack would have $325, for a profit of $75, locking it up.
You could also just pull down the DP and lock it up as well, but you'd lose the chance to make some extra if the point gets hit.
@@ProCraps This system is to be played 100% the way I wrote it down, if you play it any other way IT becomes Another system.
Your friend from Puerto Rico.
@@jaimegarcia7922
2 More Questions:
1. Are you playing the 6 & 8 at $24 or $30?
2. Do you continually feed the field in the case of the 5/6/8 hitting or is that just on the first roll?
Leaving the place bet at it's current ($25) level and letting the point resolve itself, correct?
Want to make sure that if I showcase this, I do it the way you specify.
@@ProCraps I play the 6&8 at 25 dollars.
Yes, i continually feed the field $25 when the 5/6/8 hit, you must never forget to feed the field.
Your friend from Puerto Rico.
Wrong again on the 6 when he went to 3 units on 6 said it paid 28
Sometimes, my mouth and my brain don't sync up when I'm on a roll ;)
I have to find that time stamp and add a correction there.
I use a strategy similar to this. Love the idea of working with house money
I don't think Earl Weaver would like this.
Haha. He’d hate it. But I’d do it with him at my table just on the off chance he rips out the rail, throws it at me and starts cussin.
@@ProCraps YES it would be FUNNY to see him get "EJECTED" from a CASINO instead of like he did SO MANY Times on a Baseball Field!!!!! Lol
Always the iconoclast, I’m going to avoid having to do any of these things. And have a whale of a time not doing it.
Is it more about the strategy that I chose for each phase in this short demo, or the idea of approaching profit in 3 stages?
THERE IS NO SYSTEM TO BEAT THE GAME@! PERIOD! THE VARIANCE ALONE WILL KILL ANY ADVANTAGE UNLESS YOU PLAY FOREVER AND HAVE THE PERPETUATED MONEY TO SUSTAIN! PAY THE DON'T SIDE EVEN MONEY ON BAR 12 WITH THE EDGE AND WATCH THE VARIANCE STILL KILL YOU IN THE SHORT TERM BEFORE MAKING ANYTHING. STUPID GAME NOT WORTH PLAYING! BELIEVE ME!!!
Can be said of every game in the casino.
Curious... And IF there were someone out there who found a way or "system" if you will that definitively holds the overall edge perpetually over the casino, what would that be worth to you if it were the case???@@ProCraps
@@lifepro77777 Well of course. But so long as there's a house edge, and without being able to actually control the dice, that world does not exist. The random nature of dice, even with a betting edge makes it impossible to have an advantage.
Now, if your 'system' and 'discipline' can combine so that you win more often than not (say 85%) and the 15% of the time you don't win, you aren't going completely bankrupt, you have a shot.
Watch my Daily Paycheck series on CGTV. 80 shows in and we're well in profit. Not destroying the house, but consistent, becuase we have discipline.