honestly i was nervous on doing the inner and outer on my 98 outback by myself, but seeing this video has made me for confident in taking care of the job myself and not having my co-workers do it for me thank you very much!!
I have to change the inner tie rod and on the left side of my sisters 07 Impreza. Am I glad I watched this video. I did not know they have a tool for removing/installing that inner tie rod. I have to do this all in my driveway here in Pennsylvania and it is February. Not looking forward to having any setbacks. I must say, working on cars and motorcycles for over 50 years, I have never had a simple job that went perfectly ever. Even something as simple as changing the oil which I have always done on all my vehicles myself. Something always goes wrong. Either I drop the oil filter into the oil and splash it all over my driveway, or I drop the drain plug into the oil pan. No big deal, but I have never had even a simple job go perfectly start to finish..
Sounds like my history of vehicle maintenance. Unfortunately I've never had good luck with mechanics either. If it's going to be done wrong you may as well do it yourself and save some money.
I literally was about to do pay $300+ to have this done and happened across your video, I will now be doing it myself! Thanks for the info, I am now confident that I can do this without much of an issue. You have a new subscriber!
I ended up take a large plumbers wrench to the jam nut. Let the plumber wrench hang down and smash it with a medium hammer from underneath (to tighten the jam nut on the thread, i.e. rotate away from the outter tie rod end). Once it is loose the outter tie rod end came right off. I then used an impact (with vice grips to stop the tie rod end from rotating) to remove the jam nut all the way. I was surprised I could get it as this is a 15 year old VT car. I was only replacing the bellow but I couldn't get the old cotter pin out of the old tie rod end, so I used a new one.
Thanks for this video. I had to change my girlfriend's inner and outer tie rod ends over the weekend and this was the most in depth video I could find for her Impreza Wagon.
youre awesome man! i have been doing a bump steer correction kit on my wrx for 3 days. mainly the ball joints not coming out. but i got a specialty tool for that and hopefully it works. but today on the passenger side as im trying to put on the outer tie rod end i rounded off the inner tie rod lock nut. but noticed once i disconnected the outer tie rod from the knuckle there was play on the inner tie rod anyways. replacing the inner tomorrow and hopefully getting the ball joints out to complete my suspension. brand new coilovers, sway bar links, inner tie rods, outer tie rods and ball joints. sheesh
Cool, car should feel pretty good after a good suspension and steering refresh! Good luck on the ball joints, those can be a bear. If you have a welder you can make a ball join pulling tool with with 1/2" all thread, a lug nut and a some black pipe.
Thanks this was really helpful.. Though I was going to need to replace my entire rack and pinion but after seeing that the inner tie rod is easy to remove and replace I'm going to just replace the inner and outer tie rod on that side of my car and replace the missing boot. Thanks much
Any reason you thought you were going to have to replace whole rack and pinion but didn’t have to? Just wondering because i am looking at needing the same repairs for my car.
Those jam nuts come loose really easy if you use another wrench as a counter hold on the outer tie rod while you try to turn the jam nut. You really need to lay down and get as close to under the tie rod as possible to get the best leverage on the jam nut.
If the nut is too hard to loosen. Try putting the wrench on the nut, put a floor jack under the other end of the wrench. Then jack up the wrench using the floor jack.
I just replace the rack and pinion boots today on my 02 Outback. Put some heat on that nut and tie rod end and it'll come right off. You're going to have to get it really hot but it will come right off. I'm not sure but I think that red Loctite was used on that at some point
Very nice tutorial. BTW always get an alignment after messing with tie rods, or if you remove and reinstall the bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle.
put the castle nut back on backwards so it is flush with the top of the thread. bash the steering arm first in a horizontal motion to stress the taper then hit the tie rod out.
Thanks. I'll be doing this this weekend. Only suggestions is to wear gloves so you don't spend an hour afterwards getting grease out of your fingernails.
@@goddom , the cost of replacing both isn't that much and the work is just as easy. Why pay someone else to do the job twice for labor later on. Thanks for the video !!
A required tool is anti-seize, but you don't mention using it in the video...I would imagine its to add to the threads connecting the inner and outer tie rod? Yay or nay?
Basically you put it on anything that is exposed to dirt flying up from the road when driving. If you are in an area with heavy mud content, a mix of slushy snow, or salted roads (worst case), then you might want to try tar spray. It works wonders in keeping things from rusting, seizing and getting muddy inside.
you forgot torque specs on the inner tie rod end and the castle nut. even if you chose to not torque them to spec because of not having a torque wrench, that doesn't mean other people should do the same. otherwise, nice video! thank you!
great video, it took me about 6 hours to replace my front inner and outer tie rods. Your video helped a lot. I re-used the lock washer from the old inner tie rods. I basically slid it on and then bolted it up to the rack at 55 foot pounds. Do you think that will be okay?
Matthew Eddy no my inners didn’t include a new washer. They were Moog branded ones. But I guess I’ll just keep an eye on them and make sure they’re tight
Your new inner tie rod does not have a lock washer like the stock subaru one does. What keeps the inner tie rod on and in place from getting the car under stress when driving ? and why not use the lock washer from the old inner tie rod on the new moog tie rod?
I forgot to film that part. I had to take the inner off and add the lock washer and I must have forgotten to include that when editing the video. You shouldn't re-use the old one because its all bent and up from removal. The new tie rod will come with a lock washer. Just use the screw driver and a hammer to bend new one on to the flats after tightening.
Can you please tell me the size for the tool you used? I’m using a tool right now that 1 1/2 is too big , 1 1/4 is too small, and 1 3/8 won’t work either. Literally none of the end pieces fit and I have a different tool with little pieces to slide in the big rod.
Sorry, I do not remember. Hmmm, so where did you get your rental tool from. Is the 1-3/8" to small or why doesn't it work? How much bigger is the 1-1/2"? If its slightly to big, it might work.
excellent video thanks I too have got seized up jam nuts and was dreading having to cut tie rod and do the inner as well as the outer. looks much easier than I thought. just hope my inner does not round of on me too lol
It shouldn't because it was protected by the boot and should be in good shape. Just make sure you are using the right sized tool and it shouldn't round out on you.
Try cleaning the threads out with a wire brush pretty aggressively, or at least till they're clean that's the point, then spray it with some pb n hit it with some heat n keep spraying it periodically with the pd so it has a better chance of soaking in while cooling down, don't get it red hot because that could change the temper of the bar which could make it harder but more rigid. Anyway break the nuts loose when things r still hot I kno its dangerous but be careful wear ur safety suit..not jus use common sense.. The parts will come apart A-lot easier when they're warmer
Friendly reminder dont say that the tube and moon inner tie rod set is the only way i prefer the exhaust mount looking tool SOO MUCH BETTER and you don’t Need a tie rod tool if you know the tricks of the trade
xebapro The service manual has you take the whole steering rack out and do the work with an adjustable crescent wrench. You can see if you can get enough clearance in the vehicle to try that.
how much should I expect to pay when I get both front, inner and outer tie rods done? I just got a quote for $1000. seems high. also do you know how long it would take for tires to go bald if the tie rods are bad? it took 3 weeks after I bought new tires for them to be completely bald.
Hmmm, well the tires going bald could be a bad alignment. What I would worry about the tie rod is them breaking at freeway speeds and you lose control of the car. $1000 seems about right for all 4 getting done. Its kind of highway robbery though because the parts are about $40/ea and it only takes about an hour to change but shops will charge you $80 each, plus $100 install and then $80 or more for an alignment. Shop around.
Yo I know this video is old but what about the front subframe rust? I was told by an alignment shop they couldn’t do it until the tie rod and the sub frame piece was fixed, have any suggestions?
If the sub frame is so rusty they don't wan to do the work then you should try and get it replaced. Finding a salvaged one is probably your best bet. You rbest best for finding a used front sub frame is cars-parts.com - the site looks old, but I have used it a lot. If the tie rod is worn out the car won't align, so that is a must as well. I hope this helps, if not feel free to ask more questions.
Is it more feasible to buy a new rack and pinion or rebuild also what's the symptoms of this failing? I have replaced the the CV axle the lower ball joint and still her a clunk when turning from the driver's side
I am not sure what is involved in servicing a steering rack. Did a quick serach and it seems pretty easy to rebuild a steering rack. May be hard to find the parts, I am not sure. Do you have excessive play in the steering? Do you hear the clunk at other times or only when turning? Other thought is it may be a bad strut mount but I would do some more investigating before you replace your struts.
When turning or when turning and moving? If its just when turning you can jack up the car, have someone turn the wheel and you might be able to identify specifically where the noise is coming from?
why even worry about removing the inner from the outer if you're replacing both. Just remove the outer from the knuckle, pull the bellows back, and unthread the inner. Then you can measure the total length to get your alignment close.
Don't use the pickle fork if you want to save the outer tie rod. The pickle fork will damage the rubber seal that holds in the grease. Otherwise, good explanation.
Q - Whenever you bend something, you compromise it. For liability reasons I am saying you should get new ones, but I know people re-use them without issue.
@@goddom I think I'll just re use them. I've gotten away with putting washers in between my brake rotor and hub because I pressed the bearing in too far on it. I drove about 800 miles like that until I could afford a new wheel bearing to press in. #SubieLife🤙
So, was told it's going to cost me 2.500 to removed and change the tie rods inner and outer on my 2005 GMC sierra 1500, due to the locking nuts being sieged and will need A torch to remove, dealership mechanic attempting to pull A fast one or possible truth?
Using a torch to heat parts takes a few minutes. They had to do it for a front end alignment on my car and still charged me the normal rate. The dealer is trying to entirely screw you. The tie rod ends for your vehicle are extremely common and not that expensive. Even if parts are $200 at the dealer total, the whole job should be
+Matthew Eddy thanks finished it on Monday with help from your video, ended up using a 5/16 and it worked perfectly. Thanks for the informational video
Thanks for video At 8:18 when using the breaker to open the tie rod, if the tie rod stuck and need more force to open it , may that damage or harm the steering rack?
A little will probably come out. If a bunch came out that is kind of weird, you might have a seal leak on the steering rack. You will probably be OK if you reinstall and a top off the power steering fluid. Just monitor for leaks.
I have had a Subaru forester 1997 (automatic) from new, that has been great for all the years with very little to do other than annual services. However, recently I have had a lot of vibration & shuddering on the wheels when making tight turns (left or right). It is difficult to identify which wheels the noise or shudder comes from and I don't feel much through the steering wheel. I have had all difs replace that has reduced the frequency but not always. We hope it isn't the automatic gear box but has anyone got any ideas what to do next.
Sorry, didn't see this until now. YT flagged it as spam for some reason. Hmmm, hopefully its not the AT. Maybe its one of the front CV a axles. One of the joints may be bad. Normally it starts as a clicking noise when making tight turns but as it degrades it will get worse.
@@goddom SHE LIVES AGAIN!!!!!!…..an interesting item at 3 minutes to 4:40 minutes in the attached video ( th-cam.com/video/GP7TInt4q84/w-d-xo.html )..... this was exactly what I experienced with my 1998 Subaru Forester but no-one could diagnose the problem.... £3k was spent/wasted with my Local Subaru dealer trying to fix it... but to no effect. Then I found the attached video link.... and then I found a good mechanic willing to do the work..... and yesterday we got our car back (with new solenoid in the transmission) and she runs great..... Well worth the effort.... these Subaru's can go on forever (almost) George (London, UK)
@@goddom SHE LIVES AGAIN!!!!!!…..an interesting item at 3 minutes to 4:40 minutes in the attached video ( th-cam.com/video/GP7TInt4q84/w-d-xo.html )..... this was exactly what I experienced with my 1998 Subaru Forester but no-one could diagnose the problem.... £3k was spent/wasted with my Local Subaru dealer trying to fix it... but to no effect. Then I found the attached video link.... and then I found a good mechanic willing to do the work..... and we got our car back (with new solenoid in the transmission) and she runs great..... Well worth the effort.... these Subaru's can go on forever (almost) George (London, UK)
+Kaleb Oconnor Sorry for the late reply - its a thread locker. It helps prevent the parts from unscrewing itself. There are different levels - blue, and red. Red is supposed to be permanent, and blue isnt. So use the blue.
Looks like I'm gonna have to cut the outer tie rod off, the jam nut is stuck as hell on both sides. Watch the inner tie rod not come out and me have to get the car towed to the shop.
I was actually able to get them off today. After watching your video for the 20th time I realized you were turning the wrench clockwise. The whole time I was doing it counter clockwise, tightening it lmao
This is painful to watch. Look for ChrisFix's video on this he has good advice. Also, you should Always get an alignment after, even if you thread the new part up exactly where the old one was because the old one has warped and settled differently over time. The $50 is worth making sure that everything breaks in correctly and isn't wearing down both your tires and the whole suspension because that's just more costs in the future.
Not sure. Something is wrong. I believe you need to go to get a code read. It might be from the engine - in which case a parts store can usually do it for free - or the transmission computer code - then you will have to go to dealer or a tranny shop.
Your walk through and simple language explination were exactly what my son needed to take on his 1st major component replacement. Thank you👍
Glad it helped!
Superb video. It takes a lot of effort to capture everything while dealing with the frustration of stubborn parts. Thank you for showing the details.
thank you!
honestly i was nervous on doing the inner and outer on my 98 outback by myself, but seeing this video has made me for confident in taking care of the job myself and not having my co-workers do it for me thank you very much!!
Is the lock wash not important, I'm changing mine and I can't stake the wash. Is it necessary to stake the lock wash?
That tool is most definitely not the only way to get them off!
That is true, some people have had luck with adjustable wrenches and other tools.
sure, but how would you torque the replacement inner rod without the tool?
I have to change the inner tie rod and on the left side of my sisters 07 Impreza. Am I glad I watched this video. I did not know they have a tool for removing/installing that inner tie rod.
I have to do this all in my driveway here in Pennsylvania and it is February. Not looking forward to having any setbacks. I must say, working on cars and motorcycles for over 50 years, I have never had a simple job that went perfectly ever. Even something as simple as changing the oil which I have always done on all my vehicles myself. Something always goes wrong. Either I drop the oil filter into the oil and splash it all over my driveway, or I drop the drain plug into the oil pan. No big deal, but I have never had even a simple job go perfectly start to finish..
Sounds like my history of vehicle maintenance. Unfortunately I've never had good luck with mechanics either. If it's going to be done wrong you may as well do it yourself and save some money.
I literally was about to do pay $300+ to have this done and happened across your video, I will now be doing it myself! Thanks for the info, I am now confident that I can do this without much of an issue. You have a new subscriber!
Awesome! Glad to hear it.
Christopher White did you do it was it hard ?
My second time watching this video. Just love how you explain things in a simplistic way. Thank you!
Thank you! I am glad I can help!
I ended up take a large plumbers wrench to the jam nut. Let the plumber wrench hang down and smash it with a medium hammer from underneath (to tighten the jam nut on the thread, i.e. rotate away from the outter tie rod end). Once it is loose the outter tie rod end came right off. I then used an impact (with vice grips to stop the tie rod end from rotating) to remove the jam nut all the way. I was surprised I could get it as this is a 15 year old VT car. I was only replacing the bellow but I couldn't get the old cotter pin out of the old tie rod end, so I used a new one.
Thanks for this video. I had to change my girlfriend's inner and outer tie rod ends over the weekend and this was the most in depth video I could find for her Impreza Wagon.
i realize Im kind of off topic but does anyone know a good place to watch newly released tv shows online ?
@Hugh Marc flixportal :)
@Cameron Solomon Thanks, I signed up and it seems to work =) I appreciate it!!
@Hugh Marc Happy to help =)
Appreciate you taking the time and sharing this video. This helps me tackle the repair on my own! God Bless!
youre awesome man! i have been doing a bump steer correction kit on my wrx for 3 days. mainly the ball joints not coming out. but i got a specialty tool for that and hopefully it works. but today on the passenger side as im trying to put on the outer tie rod end i rounded off the inner tie rod lock nut. but noticed once i disconnected the outer tie rod from the knuckle there was play on the inner tie rod anyways. replacing the inner tomorrow and hopefully getting the ball joints out to complete my suspension. brand new coilovers, sway bar links, inner tie rods, outer tie rods and ball joints. sheesh
Cool, car should feel pretty good after a good suspension and steering refresh! Good luck on the ball joints, those can be a bear. If you have a welder you can make a ball join pulling tool with with 1/2" all thread, a lug nut and a some black pipe.
Exactly the video I needed. I'll be cutting my rusty tie rod off too.
Glad I can help!
Thanks this was really helpful.. Though I was going to need to replace my entire rack and pinion but after seeing that the inner tie rod is easy to remove and replace I'm going to just replace the inner and outer tie rod on that side of my car and replace the missing boot. Thanks much
Any reason you thought you were going to have to replace whole rack and pinion but didn’t have to? Just wondering because i am looking at needing the same repairs for my car.
Thanks bruh! Doing mine now. May have to go get that tool if they won't come lefty loosey.
I ll be back to work at my subaru i didn't know how remove but now you reached me how thanks buddy
Glad I could help
Those jam nuts come loose really easy if you use another wrench as a counter hold on the outer tie rod while you try to turn the jam nut. You really need to lay down and get as close to under the tie rod as possible to get the best leverage on the jam nut.
+guitartricky Thanks! Yeah I have had better luck with other cars but these were really on there!
If the nut is too hard to loosen. Try putting the wrench on the nut, put a floor jack under the other end of the wrench. Then jack up the wrench using the floor jack.
Good suggestion! Thank you!
What if it just lifts your car off the jackstand😂😂 new tierod assembly?
I just replace the rack and pinion boots today on my 02 Outback. Put some heat on that nut and tie rod end and it'll come right off. You're going to have to get it really hot but it will come right off. I'm not sure but I think that red Loctite was used on that at some point
Nice video! Great info and great job showing what is involved.
Great video, Matthew. I feel ready to swap these on my 99 outback now.
Okay this video is what I was looking for! Thank you
This video helped me so much thanks man for posting this material!!
Great video thank you from Canada.
Great video! Thanks so much for taking the time to make it.
Very nice tutorial. BTW always get an alignment after messing with tie rods, or if you remove and reinstall the bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle.
You should do an alignment, but if you measure things well and you aren't getting uneven tire wear then you might be OK without it.
put the castle nut back on backwards so it is flush with the top of the thread. bash the steering arm first in a horizontal motion to stress the taper then hit the tie rod out.
Mate all the chit chat unbelievable
Thanks for the feedback
Thanks. I'll be doing this this weekend. Only suggestions is to wear gloves so you don't spend an hour afterwards getting grease out of your fingernails.
Try some liquid dishwasing detergent. They work great :)
VortechBand but takes hours to get it all out of your fingernails.
Thanks for this video, you really helped me do my first tie rod job!
"I'll use pliers to move this, ah.. ill use my hand"... hahaha, Thank you.
So you do not use a new lock washer with the moog part?
Yes, use a new one. I think I missed it in this video.
I just cut mine. Way easier than dealing with it being stuck. Might as well do both.
Yep! Thats my thought!
@@goddom , the cost of replacing both isn't that much and the work is just as easy. Why pay someone else to do the job twice for labor later on. Thanks for the video !!
Would you know the torque spec for a 2015 subaru crosstrek inner and out tie rod.
Great video!
Why not keep the wheels on ramps so you don't need an alignment afterwards? I'm going to try it, hoping to use a wrench on the split socket tool.
I hear farting at 4:00 min. lol
lol, I think you are right!
It's a couple farts lol
Haaa... yeah!
I heard that too lol Pressure release
evolution651 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂
A required tool is anti-seize, but you don't mention using it in the video...I would imagine its to add to the threads connecting the inner and outer tie rod? Yay or nay?
I use it on the tie-rod to knuckle and wheel studs for this repair, but I use it pretty much every time I work on the car.
Basically you put it on anything that is exposed to dirt flying up from the road when driving. If you are in an area with heavy mud content, a mix of slushy snow, or salted roads (worst case), then you might want to try tar spray. It works wonders in keeping things from rusting, seizing and getting muddy inside.
Is the the same for a2005 outback , changing ball joint and rod .
Your presentation was good.
Yes, it will be exactly the same. Thats the nice thing about Subarus.
you forgot torque specs on the inner tie rod end and the castle nut. even if you chose to not torque them to spec because of not having a torque wrench, that doesn't mean other people should do the same. otherwise, nice video! thank you!
What’s the torque on the outer tie rod nut
66lbs
great video, it took me about 6 hours to replace my front inner and outer tie rods. Your video helped a lot. I re-used the lock washer from the old inner tie rods. I basically slid it on and then bolted it up to the rack at 55 foot pounds. Do you think that will be okay?
Its not recommended to re-use the old one. Your inners didn't come with a new one?
Matthew Eddy no my inners didn’t include a new washer. They were Moog branded ones. But I guess I’ll just keep an eye on them and make sure they’re tight
Sounds like a good plan. You will probably be OK. I heard some inners don't use the washers any more.
Can you do a video on replacing struts and shocks anytime soon?
Sure, I think I will be able to do that.
Jack up the caliper portion with a second jack
Your new inner tie rod does not have a lock washer like the stock subaru one does. What keeps the inner tie rod on and in place from getting the car under stress when driving ? and why not use the lock washer from the old inner tie rod on the new moog tie rod?
I forgot to film that part. I had to take the inner off and add the lock washer and I must have forgotten to include that when editing the video. You shouldn't re-use the old one because its all bent and up from removal. The new tie rod will come with a lock washer. Just use the screw driver and a hammer to bend new one on to the flats after tightening.
Can you please tell me the size for the tool you used? I’m using a tool right now that 1 1/2 is too big , 1 1/4 is too small, and 1 3/8 won’t work either. Literally none of the end pieces fit and I have a different tool with little pieces to slide in the big rod.
Sorry, I do not remember. Hmmm, so where did you get your rental tool from. Is the 1-3/8" to small or why doesn't it work? How much bigger is the 1-1/2"? If its slightly to big, it might work.
+1 for excellent use of angle grinder.
excellent video thanks I too have got seized up jam nuts and was dreading having to cut tie rod and do the inner as well as the outer. looks much easier than I thought. just hope my inner does not round of on me too lol
It shouldn't because it was protected by the boot and should be in good shape. Just make sure you are using the right sized tool and it shouldn't round out on you.
Try cleaning the threads out with a wire brush pretty aggressively, or at least till they're clean that's the point, then spray it with some pb n hit it with some heat n keep spraying it periodically with the pd so it has a better chance of soaking in while cooling down, don't get it red hot because that could change the temper of the bar which could make it harder but more rigid. Anyway break the nuts loose when things r still hot I kno its dangerous but be careful wear ur safety suit..not jus use common sense.. The parts will come apart A-lot easier when they're warmer
Hell yeah dude thanks !!! Very helpful
Great video, thank you very much
Friendly reminder dont say that the tube and moon inner tie rod set is the only way i prefer the exhaust mount looking tool SOO MUCH BETTER and you don’t Need a tie rod tool if you know the tricks of the trade
Can you elaborate? I'd love to find a better way, but don't know what you mean by exhaust mount looking tool
Excelent video!
Could i remove the inner tie rod without that special tool? which someone could use? Vise grip?
xebapro The service manual has you take the whole steering rack out and do the work with an adjustable crescent wrench. You can see if you can get enough clearance in the vehicle to try that.
thanks Mr
Great video!
Thanks
On an 04 wrx will I need to replace that staked washer?
Best video!
I like my tie rod tool better. Don't need to cut. It just grabs onto the end and then I use a long socket and turn it.
Thanks!
Great video, thanks alot man
how much should I expect to pay when I get both front, inner and outer tie rods done? I just got a quote for $1000. seems high.
also do you know how long it would take for tires to go bald if the tie rods are bad? it took 3 weeks after I bought new tires for them to be completely bald.
Hmmm, well the tires going bald could be a bad alignment. What I would worry about the tie rod is them breaking at freeway speeds and you lose control of the car. $1000 seems about right for all 4 getting done. Its kind of highway robbery though because the parts are about $40/ea and it only takes about an hour to change but shops will charge you $80 each, plus $100 install and then $80 or more for an alignment. Shop around.
Either re use the old locking tab washer or buy a new one. I wouldn't drive the car without one.
Yo I know this video is old but what about the front subframe rust? I was told by an alignment shop they couldn’t do it until the tie rod and the sub frame piece was fixed, have any suggestions?
If the sub frame is so rusty they don't wan to do the work then you should try and get it replaced. Finding a salvaged one is probably your best bet. You rbest best for finding a used front sub frame is cars-parts.com - the site looks old, but I have used it a lot. If the tie rod is worn out the car won't align, so that is a must as well. I hope this helps, if not feel free to ask more questions.
Is it more feasible to buy a new rack and pinion or rebuild also what's the symptoms of this failing? I have replaced the the CV axle the lower ball joint and still her a clunk when turning from the driver's side
I am not sure what is involved in servicing a steering rack. Did a quick serach and it seems pretty easy to rebuild a steering rack. May be hard to find the parts, I am not sure. Do you have excessive play in the steering? Do you hear the clunk at other times or only when turning? Other thought is it may be a bad strut mount but I would do some more investigating before you replace your struts.
@@goddom ya it's only when I turn sharp right an it makes a pop noise
When turning or when turning and moving? If its just when turning you can jack up the car, have someone turn the wheel and you might be able to identify specifically where the noise is coming from?
@@goddom when moving like if I'm turning from a stop sign to the right and give it gas it pops an then goes away
Always a stop sign but not when, say you make a sharp turn but don't stop?
Hi great video budd. Do you recommend a torque number for the inner tie rod? or just tight enough ?
Tight enough. You will be hard pressed to over torque them.
Had the same question in my mind, thanks. What about for the castle nut on the outer tie rod?
why even worry about removing the inner from the outer if you're replacing both. Just remove the outer from the knuckle, pull the bellows back, and unthread the inner. Then you can measure the total length to get your alignment close.
Thank you.
great job, Matt Damon!!!!!
lol, you are not the first person to say that - I guess I should try and be his stunt double :-)
will the same method work for a 2011 Impreza Wrx Sti?
Did the Loctite last without issues?
I haven't had any issues.
Thank you very much !
What kind of grease do you apply to the inner tie rod ball joint?
It should have come with the inner tie rod, but if it didn't, any axle or lithium grease will work.
Nice video but you forgot to re-stake the washer.
Yeah I know... I had to go back and do it later.
Did someone can Link a toolset for removing the inner one? Or did someone know the seize, that i can buy the right tool?
Thanks
If you are in the Sates you can go to a parts store like Autozone, Advance, or something and rent a kit that will have a variety of sizes.
Don't use the pickle fork if you want to save the outer tie rod. The pickle fork will damage the rubber seal that holds in the grease. Otherwise, good explanation.
So u need 2 pairs of each for the front ? (Left and right side?)
Correct. Both the left and right has an inner and outer tie rod.
how did you lock the washer lock back to the tie rod end ?
or you used no washer ?
Use a washer, I actually realized my error and took it off and put the washer on and forgot to mention it in the video later.
Are those stake washers one time use?
Yes, they are. You can probably get away with using them twice in a pinch
@@goddom Everybody I see on YT reuse them, even Mr.Subaru.
Q - Whenever you bend something, you compromise it. For liability reasons I am saying you should get new ones, but I know people re-use them without issue.
@@goddom I think I'll just re use them. I've gotten away with putting washers in between my brake rotor and hub because I pressed the bearing in too far on it. I drove about 800 miles like that until I could afford a new wheel bearing to press in. #SubieLife🤙
YOu did not show how to tighten the inner boot clamps. Hope you did it!
So, was told it's going to cost me 2.500 to removed and change the tie rods inner and outer on my 2005 GMC sierra 1500, due to the locking nuts being sieged and will need A torch to remove, dealership mechanic attempting to pull A fast one or possible truth?
Well, I think its kind of a fast one. As you can see in this video you just cut off the outer rod and then remove the inner.
Using a torch to heat parts takes a few minutes. They had to do it for a front end alignment on my car and still charged me the normal rate. The dealer is trying to entirely screw you. The tie rod ends for your vehicle are extremely common and not that expensive. Even if parts are $200 at the dealer total, the whole job should be
I ended up doing it myself,
Dmanplayer723 Good call! Definitely wasn't a $2500 job, eh?
nah, it was not
How long would this job take for both ???
Probably a couple hours if things go decently.
@@goddom cool thanks man
good vid
Well done. Saved my @$$. Cheers
what size was the inner tie rod tool you used?
+Jarod Carbajal Not sure off hand. I think it was the smallest one in the set. 25mm?
+Matthew Eddy thanks finished it on Monday with help from your video, ended up using a 5/16 and it worked perfectly. Thanks for the informational video
I tried to use a set from pep boys yesterday - the 1 3/16" was too small, the 1 5/16" was too big, guess I need 1 1/4"
Thanks for video
At 8:18 when using the breaker to open the tie rod, if the tie rod stuck and need more force to open it , may that damage or harm the steering rack?
I loosened up the boot and powersteering fluid came out, is that normal? I see your car didn't have fluid coming out
A little will probably come out. If a bunch came out that is kind of weird, you might have a seal leak on the steering rack. You will probably be OK if you reinstall and a top off the power steering fluid. Just monitor for leaks.
I have had a Subaru forester 1997 (automatic) from new, that has been great for all the years with very little to do other than annual services. However, recently I have had a lot of vibration & shuddering on the wheels when making tight turns (left or right). It is difficult to identify which wheels the noise or shudder comes from and I don't feel much through the steering wheel. I have had all difs replace that has reduced the frequency but not always. We hope it isn't the automatic gear box but has anyone got any ideas what to do next.
Sorry, didn't see this until now. YT flagged it as spam for some reason. Hmmm, hopefully its not the AT. Maybe its one of the front CV a axles. One of the joints may be bad. Normally it starts as a clicking noise when making tight turns but as it degrades it will get worse.
Thanks for the info.... I will get it checked out & report back if it works.
@@goddom
SHE LIVES AGAIN!!!!!!…..an interesting item at 3 minutes to 4:40 minutes in the attached video ( th-cam.com/video/GP7TInt4q84/w-d-xo.html )..... this was exactly what I experienced with my 1998 Subaru Forester but no-one could diagnose the problem.... £3k was spent/wasted with my Local Subaru dealer trying to fix it... but to no effect. Then I found the attached video link.... and then I found a good mechanic willing to do the work..... and yesterday we got our car back (with new solenoid in the transmission) and she runs great..... Well worth the effort.... these Subaru's can go on forever (almost) George (London, UK)
@@goddom SHE LIVES AGAIN!!!!!!…..an interesting item at 3 minutes to 4:40 minutes in the attached video ( th-cam.com/video/GP7TInt4q84/w-d-xo.html )..... this was exactly what I experienced with my 1998 Subaru Forester but no-one could diagnose the problem.... £3k was spent/wasted with my Local Subaru dealer trying to fix it... but to no effect. Then I found the attached video link.... and then I found a good mechanic willing to do the work..... and we got our car back (with new solenoid in the transmission) and she runs great..... Well worth the effort.... these Subaru's can go on forever (almost) George (London, UK)
Very nice video thank you.
dayum thanks alot!
Thanks
was that blue stuff glue?
+Kaleb Oconnor Sorry for the late reply - its a thread locker. It helps prevent the parts from unscrewing itself. There are different levels - blue, and red. Red is supposed to be permanent, and blue isnt. So use the blue.
I dont like how you said "rusty nuts" at 1:00 😂
lol!
Lock washer on the inners?
Yes. I forgot to put that in the video. I have heard of people not doing it but I would suggest it.
I got a Subaru....my head gasket blew....now I go BOO HOO...don't let this happen to you !
Shut it
That just couldn't be true cuz there's nobody close to as stupid as you!
Looks like I'm gonna have to cut the outer tie rod off, the jam nut is stuck as hell on both sides. Watch the inner tie rod not come out and me have to get the car towed to the shop.
Luckily the inners don't usually rust. I hope you were able to get it out OK?
I was actually able to get them off today. After watching your video for the 20th time I realized you were turning the wrench clockwise. The whole time I was doing it counter clockwise, tightening it lmao
OK good! I am sorry I didn't mention it clearly in the video!
you do not need to write "thank you" at the end, we should write THANK YOU
Gloves ?
Yeah... I try, but I fail all the time at wearing gloves.
@@goddom OK, Watch the pinkies though. All the best.
This is painful to watch. Look for ChrisFix's video on this he has good advice.
Also, you should Always get an alignment after, even if you thread the new part up exactly where the old one was because the old one has warped and settled differently over time. The $50 is worth making sure that everything breaks in correctly and isn't wearing down both your tires and the whole suspension because that's just more costs in the future.
My 1997 Legacy Outback Wagon's AT oil temp blinks 16 times when turning the key on. What is wrong?
Not sure. Something is wrong. I believe you need to go to get a code read. It might be from the engine - in which case a parts store can usually do it for free - or the transmission computer code - then you will have to go to dealer or a tranny shop.
Did you jst fart 4mins into the video lol 😆
lol, no, it wasn't me, I think it was you! :-)
NEVER use an impact when installing castle nuts! If you don't know why, you should not be anywhere near a steering componant.
right at 4:00 matthew eddy rips a fart. tell me im wrong
No it wasn't me. There was a cat off screen, it was the cat! LOL
@@goddom pssssh cats don't fart
Did he fart 4:00 minutes 😂🤦♂️
Nope it wasn't me, it was the other guy! :-)