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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- Hi, just a reminder that I am not a mechanic, just a boat owner trying to help anyone out there who may want to replace their water pump on their outboard motor.
The motor in the video is a 1982 Johnson 9.9hp short shaft outboard (J10RCNS).
Make sure to consult your repair manual and/or contact an authorized dealer to ensure you are using correct parts in your motor.
I am learning a lot by doing some work on my outboard myself; please don't hesitate to let me know if I've done anything wrong or left out anything important.
Thanks for watching!
great job. Doing the same on my lower unit almost exact same engine. Note the "half moon" towards the back of the unit surrounding the upper seal. If you are fixing corrosion here, as I am, that has to remain open to let water in to the pump. When it is corroded it can be hard to tell this is intended to be there. It is!
Good video sir. I just go a 9.9 Johnson. Thinking about doing this at some point soon. Subbed.
thank you for your video. I tore into my evinrude and forgot which way the impeller went, thanks alot
thanks for your detailed video.. will hopefully be doing this to mine
+flynavy26
Hey glad the video helped!!
henning sellevoll
I was told by a local marine mechanic that the Johnson/Evinrude outboards tend not to like the NGK plugs as much, although I can't speak to that first hand. I've always run Champion QL77JC4 in this motor with positive results (0.030"gap)
Hope that helps!
I need some help, I lost a flat metal little plate that I believe is apart of the exhaust, it's about as thick as a quarter and its has a few holes in it, In your video I see it at 3:23, if you know what it is please help, and also if I cant find it is absolutely necessary to replace it?
Hopeful this vid helps me, about to R&R the water pump on my 1971 9.5 Johnson(1st time). Did you seal that lower foot surface with anything before securing the 6 bolts? silicone, grease or anything to keep the water out of there?
Hey so no there is actually no gasket or seal required between the "foot" and the lower part of the shaft leg. good luck!
Very good, Thanks
Very very good demo very helpful
Great, detailed video! I just bought an 85 Johnson 9.9 long shaft. I noticed brown watery liquid leaking from the inside of the prop. I dropped the lower unit and found the entire inside covered in it....especially around the impeller housing. I researched impeller kits but noticed they have three different rubber water tube grommets. Couldn't for the life of me find out which one was the one I needed until I saw your video. Also I realized whoever owned the motor before me put in the smaller grommet when he should have put in the larger one for the 20 in shaft....pretty much just the opposite of what you experienced. However, my engine was leaking pretty bad as I could expect having a smaller grommet in there. Anyway, thanks again!!!!!!
flynavy26 I just found my grandfathers old johnson 9.9 in the barn. it probably needs new spark plugs, but i can't figure out witch spark plugs to buy because there are already two different plugs with different size mounted on the engine. What sparkplugs do you use on your jonhson :) ?
henning sellevoll
Now worries...Just went out to the garage to check on them for you since your video helped me out so much...it's the least I can do. The plugs in my 1985 9.9 Johnson stroke are NGK plugs. The specific number on them is B7HS with a 10 underneath the "B7HS". I did some research on the net for you and I found out the 10 is the gap setting. A plug that is B7HS-10 is supposed to have a 1.0mm gap. Hope this helps!
flynavy26
Just realized you weren't the original one who posted the video. Oh well....still hope it helps you out. Haha
did you have the shifter in neutral?Also, do not over tighten bolt in shifter brass block, mine was stripped out.
+newyota1 I did have it in neutral, although i don't think its overly important. Just as long as you can attach the linkage with room to access the set screw. And yes definitely, the brass seems on the soft side!
@@nicoserena87 when pushing together, you need the transmission back
Thanks, good video. Please get a tripod, they're cheap! :) Would have been very helpful to actually see you install the impeller in the housing.
Question: In the video, the shifter shaft from above looks like it has a bend at the end, is that true and the way it's supposed to be? Thanks again!
mine is also in the bend
Boy that engine is in beautiful shape, looks new! Amazing how nice they stay in fresh water. There is a lot of confusion about those grommets, and the directions can be confusing/misleading as well. The flared grommet is for the engines with the open inner exhaust megaphone. The short grommet is used on the engines with the sealed inner exhaust megaphone. Your engine should have the sealed megaphone, so the short grommet is correct. Using the flared grommet on sealed megaphone models will cause cooling water to get trapped in the exhaust hsg, which could back up into the powerhead. I don't know why they coated that SS impeller plate with that black stuff either! Thank you for showing that the driveshaft splines should be cleaned and lubed with the moly lube included with the kit, the new oring should be used also. This important step is often missed by even outboard techs being paid big bucks!And yes, having a helper is almost a requirement when reinstalling that gearcase in order to get the shift rod linkage properly reconnected.
where did you purchase the OMC water pump kit?
hello, what do you think about johnson 50hp (1982) ?
Great detailed video. I have a 20 inch model and the information you provided helped out greatly. I would like to ask if you can provide me with the part number of the instruction sheet that came with the kit. I guess I bout the wrong kit as my kit did not come with one. Thanks, in advance!!!
Where does number 7 o ring go?
Great video !! Doing the same on my 85 evinrude 9.9 After cleaning out the mud and grease inside !! Also the lower gromet is broken and was blocking the flow up the tube partially Bought motor recently 👍🏻
just changed the water pump in my 2000 evenrude the linkedge bolt is non existent whole think slips out from the power head
Am so glad i found your video before damaging the upper housing as i was trying to change the impeller shaft seal pushing it down instead of pulling it upwards!! GJ!!!
well done , getting ready to do this same job , and it's great to have someone like you to shortcut some of the issues that arise when undertaking a new project ! THUMBS UP !
Great video. I just wished I could find one that is for a long shaft and show putting the lower end back on.
Just got my kit and watched your video while installing it. Thanks for the help. Great video!!!!!!!!!!!
What kind of grease are you using?
I'm talking this task this weekend thank you for the advice good video
So all the grease and lubricant you used in this video is included in the kit? I have one on the way for my 77 johnson 15 hp and just wondering if I need to buy the grease or lubricant.
Toto Tojo Hey so yea the part number I quoted in the video came with the spline lubricant required at the top of the drive spline. I used all purpose grease for lubing up the impeller housing and to keep the key stuck on the flat part of the shaft though.... stickier than the spline lube so better for that application
Excellent Thanks for taking the time to do this video
Great video man! They are really great motors to work on!
How do you know that it is pumping water if the earmuffs are pressurising it? shouldn't it be in a bucket?
GoForGold Hey good question, I asked the same when I bought the motor. Local marine mechanic said they're perfectly fine to use, provided you consider a few important points:
-Make sure your outboard doesnt have any additional intakes that can't be covered by the muffs (this one doesnt)
-With the muffs mounted and water on, there is a drain hole almost at the bottom of the lower leg assembly. If it's mounted properly, water will piss out of this hole even with the engine off
-Don't leave the engine while running, if the muffs shift or fall your engine will overheat quickly
-Because your prop will have no water to provide resistance, don't rev it excessively
-As always, keep a close eye on your tell tale hose while the engine is running, and if water stops coming out while the engine is running, kill it ASAP
So i got a question. i have a 1977 johnson 15 hp model number 15r77m which grommet do i use? the one i just pulled off had grommet 2 but i saw a video and the guy used grommet 3? which one is it im confused.
Toto Tojo so you'd have to know whether it's a 15 inch short or 20 inch long shaft. When mounted on the transom, measure down from the top of the transom to the bottom of the cavitation plate on your motor. This link shows some images on how to measure smalloutboards.com/shaft.htm
Nico McGee I just went ahead and put this one on since it was the one that was on it when I took it off and now it's pissin like a race horse! thanks for the help:)
Toto Tojo Then just read the guide at 7:24 in the video for which grommet your motor calls for
Just watched this again.It is funny that these pump videos don't show the struggle of putting the brass block conection together.It is a pain.I think someone had my 9.9 apart before I had it apart and I was wondering when I shift from reverse to neutral it stays in gear when running.I have to bump the shifter back alittle then back to neutral to disenegage reverse.Does yours do this?I know the props do sometimes turn alittle due to friction, but mine is definitley still in gear.Also, have you ever tried shifting it into reverse then neutral while not running?I tried this and it does not disengage.Not sure if it has to be running or not?thanks
Yea I agree that little shifting linkage is a bitch to get back in... nobody wants to film it because it would be riddled with censored f-boms ;) I'm not too sure how to go about fixing the shifting issues you're describing, but I can tell you that my motor also won't always shift when not running... I think it's just because the gears may not be meshed where they ended when the motor shut off, whereas when it's running they can synchronize easily. I would think there may be a way to adjust your shifting linkage to fix your issue, maybe try searching for that? Ideally the adjustment would be made up in the engine compartment where the shift lever is, otherwise you'd be opening the lower leg and that's where I am over my head. Good luck though!
ok-thanks.I have someone tell me to thread thread the lower shift link in and back off 1/4 turn.Would have to pull lowr unit off again to do this.I had thought the lower shift linf was threaded but was not sure how it was attached to the shift fork in the gear case.Will look again under the hood first.
newyota1 èeI I
well done thanks
Is it necessary to replace all those parts or can you just replace the actual impeller piece?
Good question, so speaking as a non-mechanic I went with the advice given to me by mechanics at my local marine shop. They said the parts are sold in a kit like that for a reason, and while you're in there you're best to replace the whole kit.
Thanks for the excellently detailed video! I now feal confident about replacing impeller on the motor I just bought!
that motor sounds like my 74 olds
Roto3 e tampa do motor 9.5 mm eporthyne importado