Here's a good tip for removing the swingarm. Remove the rider foot pegs and flip them upside down so that they fold down instead of up. Now you can set them onto jack stands. Use some shop rags or something similar on the top of the jack stands to eliminate the chance of marring the foot pegs.
You genius - I love that ! Of course, how obvious is that... I shall probably do that and credit you with the nudge! That's why I love You Tube - and don't we learn something new every day?! Cheers buddy...
Look awesome! Hopefully they'll dry like that and not sink too much showing the cast texture. Love that tough black paint. I painted my lower T5 grill with it after scotchbriting first 👍🏻 Top job!
I've got to hold my hands up del. .and admit I was never a big fan of the fighter build. .I've followed you from your earlier stuff and loved the down to earth honesty of you and penny having a laugh as you went. .but what you do now is probably the most professional stuff on TH-cam and I'm actually totally hooked on how this fighter build is going to turn out. .Thanks for all the hard work to entertain all us viewers. .I've only some clever tv man could pick up on this stuff and take it to the next level 😊😊
Hi Martin, thank you so much for that kind and generous endorsement, We love what we do with the channel, and it has become a full time commitment these days, but not a job, we have amazing support from Patrons who help us keep things going and pay the bills, but a TV connection would be a dream come true some day, it can happen as we see so often on the cable channels, so you never know, fingers crossed aye.. Thank you again for taking the time to say such nice things.. all the best.. Del.
I have really enjoyed watching your videos, learnt loads, thank you to the MissendenFlyer for the introduction. Appreciate the time taken by yourselves for the work taken into making these videos.
Hi Mark, thank you for your kind words, and welcome aboard! It was a great move to cross pollinate our viewers, we'll be doing some more work with 'The Flyer' in the Spring, am looking forward to that cross vlog where we ride each other's bikes and see what fault we can find with them lol .. take care and thank you for watching!
Hi Del and Penstar! I haven’t commented on your recent videos, despite watching them all, from start to finish. How rude of me! Apologies D & P.... I love the satin black finish and, as you said, finished up much better than I anticipated too. Instead of the grainy finish you were expecting, you’ve now got a lovely darth Vader helmet looking black, love it! It never seizes to amaze me how much work you get done in one day Del. Setting up the camera, getting the best shot and painting a set of wheels, most impressive. The way you cut off the excess from the masking tape too was meticulous. You would make a great chef.... I’m loving this stage of the build now, starting to see what the bike will end up looking like and also fascinating to see you completing the mechanical side of the build, ready for the big launch in the Spring / Summer!!! Cracking stuff, thank you!
Hey Brother, how nice to hear from you... ! You know yourself how much goes in to a video, but it's a labour of love aye?! And I'd never make a chef unless it all goes in one saucepan lol... roll on summer, we'll see you for that ride buddy... have a great weekend, D&Pxx
Hi Dell, the wheels look lush, been waiting ages for you to paint them, thanks for the tip about the seating of the disks, I'm hoping to get my wheels off and painted before the spring so this has given me a little inspiration. Looking forward to seeing the results and the rest of the skills videos. Keep up the good work. Enjoying your channel.
Thanks mate, they are all dried and satin'ed off now, I did a little close up look round them in tomorrow's video, they have come out rather well... good luck with yours mate, hope you get a great result, all the best...
Ace work! Looks really sleek in black and follows its original scheme. Really common for 7r owners to put a 180 rear tyre on for sharper turner, when I bought mine it had a 180 fitted but I switched to a 190, I've always ran a 190 on the rear including for trackdays and its been perfect. A new rear shock will make such a difference especially if its still on the OEM shock, Looking forward to seeing this all together and running
Hi Matthew, thanks for your input, I think you're right, there have been lots of words expressed on the whole 180 back tyre thing for 6" rims, but I personally can't feel the difference at my level of riding... so am going 190 too! And yes indeed, I have something special planned for the rear shock as having re-built the forks already, I wanna make the most of the way it handles, as that's what fighters are all about aye?!
simple method stunning results, wheels look mint if i do say, awesome job Del! everytime i sit down and watch a video im captivated by the amount of effort put into every little detail, think ill just stick to trying to look ratty to get away with the bodges ;) keep em up man you keep my morning interesting!
Old video, but I thought I’d comment as I have done just this.. I bought some spare wheels for my ZX12R A2, and painted them in Kawasaki lime green 777.. They came out pretty good, but I had to re-do the rear wheel as I wasn’t happy with the finish. I held the spray can too far from the wheel at times, so the paint dried in the air so left the surface of the wheel rough in places.. It’s also quite hard to get the paint into that outer groove of the wheel. I had to hold the can at quite an acute angle so the paint reached the corners of this groove.. If you know what I mean 💁🏻♂️😄 Good video 👍🏼 (Edit.. I have the same old Halfords axle stands, which I used for painting too) 😂👍🏼
Hi Del, Apologies for dragging up such an old video but I've only recently got into your channel. Just an observation on you cleaning out the threads using a tap. I used to do the same but recently discovered that that is actually a bad thing to do as it removes more of the thread. The correct tool is a thread chaser but being half Scottish I made my own by cutting a couple of slots in a suitable sized bolt. Just thought you might be interested (and apologies if you already knew that, couldn't quite tell from the speeded up video) Ben
Hi Ben, there is such a thing as a thread chaser, but it's not a different size to a regular tap, they are just cut right to their end with no chamfer, if you've experienced curly swarf coming out when you clean a thread, then the thread was either a different size to the tap (unlikely), or more likely the initial factory thread was inaccurate... most engineering taps you buy of any quality are extremely precise and if you cut a bolt with a die they should fit together like silk, but again mass produced bolts are often inaccurate, especially when they're zinc plated... if you use a regular thread tap carefully and don't force it, it will clean out paint and corrosion plus, most importantly, old threadlock debris really well... the trick is not to force it, just go gently with one hand and lots of lubricant... but I have to say, I love your ghetto fix of a slotted bolt, that works pretty much the same was as a tap, as long as the bolt itself is a nice precise engineering bolt and not a cheap wobbly thing! Anything to save a penny aye, love your thinking!
@@Moonfleet41 My understanding is the chaser doesn't have a cutting edge so will not re cut the thread. Running a normal tap down a FRESH hole should not result in any issue. But if you have an older thread that has deformed slightly over time from torqueing etc (as they all do) the tap will re cut it to the correct thread again, removing material and making it loose.
Awesome job Del, they look absolutely stunning. I really got to try that tough black paint out!! Swing arm bearing video you say, that's one I'll look forward to watching. On my to do list at some point as well. Awrabest mate. Al.
very nice job you did there dell. iam looking forward to watching the engine painting I want to tidy mine up but can't take the bike off the road so I am hoping to pick up a few tips when you do yours.
Hi Brian, probably not gonna paint the engine actually cos it's about the only decent part of the bike! But certainly doing the frame and the engine won't be coming out for that... and it's the same principle, will be on to it very soon!
HI Dell, I am restoring a Honda Blackbird and am using your videos on how to do things. Head stock bearing done, next the swingarm so I found your vid on that excellent. I like this video about painting the wheels as that is a job I have to do also. Can you tell me what paint you used as it seems like it did and excellent job. Many thanks Peter
Wheels look great Del. I need to find a local bike workshop where the engineers move as fast as you did on that time lapse - full service in 30 seconds!
I love a flawless black paint job. That said, I don't like black wheels, mostly because every broke high-schooler with a rattle can has blacked-out wheels (and NOS stickers) on their pimp-mobile hand-me-down Honda Civic. It's a trend that started in the late 90's, went out of control, and now it's just tired. (That was a terrible pun.) It's my own personal pet-peeve. When I do black wheels on my projects (which is rare) I always polish out the edge of the rims because after two or three tire changes those edges will be chipped up and shabby looking if they're painted. Loving this build series.
@@Moonfleet41 nice youve saved me a lot of money over the years ,plus you use tools i can afford keep it coming and i think for sure you need to do an engine rebuild or a gear box over haul we all know you can ,just shut the doubters up.
Thanks mate , much appreciated, am gonna re-make another little tank console, much smaller than the last thing, and a lot more stylish, so hopefully it will all blend in nicely ! Thanks for watching mate...
I’m currently looking to restore some rims myself and am trying to weigh up all the different options. What made you decide to paint the rims instead of powder coat? How has the paint held up over time? Keep up great videos!
Decided on cost and convenience, a few rattle cans of 'Tough Black" is way cheaper then having a company powdercoat them.. and after 2 years, they're still perfect without a single chip of flake.!
Shame your not taking the engine out ! That's one video I'd like to see... Have a bike that I need to drop the engine out of because second gear is buggered, new gearbox needed. Plus I have another I'm breaking - no idea how difficult it really is
Taking an engine out is a piece of cake mate, once you disconnect the wiring loom and engine mounts, it drops out... depends what bike it's on, maybe get yourself a manual just for any unique features you need to be aware of... good luck with it!
Hi I think shot is a bit harsh on the aluminum as it leaves a very rough finish, I find sand is so much better then you get an even better finish with the paint. Also I always fill the threaded holes with silicone sealer then there is no need to run a die through them even with shot it bounces of and it comes out easy.
I meant to mention you can also use old bolts though metric fine bolts if needed aren't as common as most.I also never shot blast a frame or worse powder coat it, its horrible. If its bad sand blast or if not so bad use paint stripper wire brush and kill any rust with rust eater, then prime and paint. Jap bikes I don't even prime in the 60's 70's they didn't prime or undercoat. I use spray tins and people are surprised at how original the finish looks, and I'm by no means an expert. Of course if your going to ride the bike through winters then I guess powder coating would be more durable.
Do I have to rub down with sand paper or scotch bright after each coat is dry on my motorbike wheels so paint dont run? Didn't see you do it, maby as spinning the wheel maby?
No the whole job was done in one, light coats, with expanding flash off times along the way, rotating the wheels helps with coverage, but it doesn't run as long as you lay it up light and leave the right flash times between coats. !
Nice nice. Not long now bruv. Fish line in in sight. The swinger is my next interest as I am doing a bearing replacement too. I would have beaten them in with a hammer instead I'll wait till you do it and I'll just copy how you do it lol. Exam cheat I was lol. Thanks sell I'll get an A+ on this one. Ride safe bruv
Hi mate, even if you saw a pair of swing arm bearings in the packet, you'd realise you can't beat them in, but I have a little ghetto trick that will get you out of trouble... coming soon mate!
Wheels look great Del. I must admit I'm a convert to the tough black paint, like you say it just seems to be a little more forgiving as it flows out. Would it not have made sense to tape/mask of the mating surfaces for the disks when blasting the wheels as well ? Anyway look forward to the next step and finally seeing Mackie work his magic on the paint.
Hi mate, if the blasting takes of powder coat, how long would the masking tape last lol ... seriously, you can't mask them off, it's almost impossible to mask anything from grit blasting, and yep, am looking forward to the final paint too! Thanks buddy...
Well when we do it at work(not that often) we use electrical tape and it lasts no problem though we try not to focus the gun on the machined surface. We only using a hobby type clarke cabinet set up though and our media is probably softer than what a pro would use.
Hi Del, I need some advise on spray painting please, I noticed in this video you just spray the wheels without primer but in the swing arm video you use primer??? The reason i ask is i want to spray my clock bracket on my zx7r, would you just use the tough paint or would you use a primer first? Thanks john.
Tough paint can be used either with or without primer, it bonds very well to bare metal, much like the Hammerite paints used to.. So if you're just painting a simple bracket, or wheels, you can apply it direct to the metal... but if you want a much smoother finish, then some primer will give you a base coat you can sand down to improve the surface,, Choice is yours mate..! Good luck with it. !
Hey Del, revisiting some of your videos and whilst watching I had a thought. Could I use the tough black paint to paint my rear pegs on my bike. What do you think would it work? Cheers Scott
This was "Simoniz Tough Paint", a specified stone chip paint, similar in principle to hammerite, it goes onto bare metal with no need for primer, and remains flexible and durable for years rather then going rock hard and chipping later on.
@Moonfleet41 happy days I was going to ask if you use a tool/machine ? If so which 1 ..I'm after a decent 1 amd know you often buy good tools ..(I love my tools also ). As I done it via pry bars and a vice to break the beads . Ideally to help prevent Amy marking of the wheels as I'm.about to refurb them and go back black ....thanks in advance del
@@kevinhancock4064 I use this to break the beads, and then just tyre levers and rim protector strips, it is a lot of work but works ok if you're careful... but if i have a fragile rim a truly cannot afford to mark, then i take the wheels to a mate of mine who has a proper tyre machine. ! www.spanner-monkey.co.uk/tyre-bead-breaker-119971?search=TC968&description=true
Because I can't powder coat at home mate, certainly not wheels anyway, and why pay for someone else to do it, when I can do it myself for the price of a couple of cans of stone chip paint!
Nicely done, Del... truly magnificent work. How many spray cans did it take? Any need to seal the paint now? From cold and rainy Delaware (I feel like I’m back in Pimlico in ‘92...!)...
Hi Gary, no this is a single coat finish, it'll come out satin black, and be robust and flexible for years to come.... I used 3.1/2 cans to paint the wheels and sprocket carrier! Hope the weather gets better for ya... no different here lol !
Hi Del and Penny, hope all's well for you guys..... Just a quick one.......did you use any primer on the bare metal, if so which one??? Ta muchly.....Gaz.
Hi Gaz, god to hear from you mate... as you may have seen in the video, I didn't use any primer on the wheels at all... the Tough Black paint is formulated to straight on bare metal, provided it's sufficiently keyed to grip it, and as you saw, they'd been shot blasted, so had a fabulous, textured, grainy finish, just perfect for paint ! However, I will use some primer on the swing arm this weekend, because the outside faces of the swing arm are smooth - haven't had the wing arm blasted, cos unlike the wheels, it wasn't powder coated, or corroded... if you remember the wheels had lots of gold paint on them, and it all had to come off, whereas the swing arm was just cleaned off with a soft disc, so for that am gonna use some Etch Primer of the same brand as the paint, so Simoniz Etch Primer followed by Simoniz Tough Paint... hope that helps mate... Basic rule of thumb is to use Etch Primer on smooth metal, regular primer on regular keyed metal and non for the Tough Black as it's formulated to go straight on bare metal. There are other paints like this, such as Exhaust Manifold Paint and Hammerite...!
No mate, it doesn't.. it's like Hammerite, it goes straight on to bare metal, but only if that metal is keyed, or a textured surface like my wheels... but if it's really smooth metal, then you would use an Etch Primer to get a bite on it... otherwise just rough it up with some 240grit and you're good to go after a de-grease !
ahhh ok ive never heard of that before , as you know im from Australia and i use to work as a sand blaster spray painter and we always used some sought of primer after blasting and didnt matter what material was being blasted or what we were blasting with whether it was metal grit , ceremic garnet or even water blasting we used a primer before top coat
Yeah, i think you have a point, as any general rule of thumb you should always prime bare metal.. but this product, much like hammerite, and exhaust header paint can survive being painted directly onto bare metal unless its really smooth... i guess its just a specific formulation.. the exception not the rule aye... cheers mate and hope its warmer where you are.. its bloody freezing here today... Del.
Yes, there's a few mate, in various projects over the years, simply the trick is to paint the wheels as normal, but to mask out the tyres, here's a great way to do it... deflate the tyre totally flat, gently push the tyre wall away from the rim and slip a playing card in the gap, then slip another next to it slightly overlapping, and keep doing that all the way round the tyre till you have playing cards tucked inside the lip, all the way round... do the other side too, tape off the rest of the tyre in the usually way with newspaper and then paint away till you heart's content.. you can squirt the paint right down in to the bead lip, knowing it won't go on the rubber, then when done, ship the cards out and re-inflate the tyre... job done!
@@Moonfleet41 do i need to sand to bare metal if just spraying wheels with the hard wearing black spraypaint? .... Wheels are currently black if need to know that.
Very clean work Del! May I ask why you didn't do the bearings and seals before you did this paint job? I'd be scared to work on rims with fresh paint and if you scratched a bare metal rim it's easy to fix. Can't wait for the swingarm bush video; I've been meaning to do mine for a while now
Never scratched a rim replacing wheel bearings so far, and also it's a greasy business, so even one fingerprint on the bare alloy is yet more to deal with when it comes to paint... as I showed, and explained, the surface was grainy and rough, and any grease on it at all would have practically been absorbed and been almost impossible to remove... it's tyres next, then I'll do the bearings, and put the discs on!
I think I said in the video mate, it's cheaper, I can apply it myself rather than pay someone else £60 to do it for me, it's more durable and less liable to chip like powder coat, but I don't think it's better, or worse, than powder, it's just another option mate, and as I wanna do all this bike myself, then this was the best way to go!
Tough Black paint? Who is the manufacturer and can it be purchased in America? Thanking you in advance for the info. I ride a 2008 H-D Dyna and a 2017 Triumph Street Cup. Bill
Hi Bill, the manufacurer is SImoniz and am not sure if they sell in the USA, but the nearest equivalent that you have in terms of paint brand would be one of the Rustoleum products, you're looking for something designed for crash bars and railings, it's mineral spirit based and doesn't dry rock hard, so gives a durable, resiliant finish - hope that helps you, best of luck, Del
Hi Lewis, you bike should have a 120 on the front as standard, so if you're running a 110 at the minute, then you'll be returning it back to what it should be mate, as long as it's a 120/60...
Hi Kevin, it's nothing to do with rattle cans mate, it's the paint in them, this Tough paint goes on to bare metal without primer on all but the shiniest finishes... but on any metal that's smooth and shiney use an Etch Primer, but if like these rims, it's rough and grainy, this Tough Paint sticks just fine, as just like exhaust paint, and Hammerite, it's designed to go over bare metal!
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 79 | คู่เอก "ก้องชัย vs อาเมียร์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/WfPSA1A0NHc/mqdefault.jpg)
Here's a good tip for removing the swingarm. Remove the rider foot pegs and flip them upside down so that they fold down instead of up. Now you can set them onto jack stands. Use some shop rags or something similar on the top of the jack stands to eliminate the chance of marring the foot pegs.
You genius - I love that ! Of course, how obvious is that... I shall probably do that and credit you with the nudge! That's why I love You Tube - and don't we learn something new every day?! Cheers buddy...
What a seriously good idea and garage hack. Buy that man a beer🍺
My lord what a marvelous idea! Good on you! Have you got a channel?
I definetly took note of how you applied the paint by spinning the wheel! Awesome!
Look awesome! Hopefully they'll dry like that and not sink too much showing the cast texture. Love that tough black paint. I painted my lower T5 grill with it after scotchbriting first 👍🏻 Top job!
It's not too bad buddy, dried now, it did sink a little, so I may yet to another coat but off camera, as painting is only so interesting aye lol !
I've got to hold my hands up del. .and admit I was never a big fan of the fighter build. .I've followed you from your earlier stuff and loved the down to earth honesty of you and penny having a laugh as you went. .but what you do now is probably the most professional stuff on TH-cam and I'm actually totally hooked on how this fighter build is going to turn out. .Thanks for all the hard work to entertain all us viewers. .I've only some clever tv man could pick up on this stuff and take it to the next level 😊😊
Hi Martin, thank you so much for that kind and generous endorsement, We love what we do with the channel, and it has become a full time commitment these days, but not a job, we have amazing support from Patrons who help us keep things going and pay the bills, but a TV connection would be a dream come true some day, it can happen as we see so often on the cable channels, so you never know, fingers crossed aye.. Thank you again for taking the time to say such nice things.. all the best.. Del.
I have really enjoyed watching your videos, learnt loads, thank you to the MissendenFlyer for the introduction. Appreciate the time taken by yourselves for the work taken into making these videos.
Hi Mark, thank you for your kind words, and welcome aboard! It was a great move to cross pollinate our viewers, we'll be doing some more work with 'The Flyer' in the Spring, am looking forward to that cross vlog where we ride each other's bikes and see what fault we can find with them lol .. take care and thank you for watching!
Good morning all :) what a great way to start the weekend with a nice fresh painted pair of black wheels made in the Dell garage 😄 🎸🎵
Hi Del and Penstar! I haven’t commented on your recent videos, despite watching them all, from start to finish. How rude of me! Apologies D & P....
I love the satin black finish and, as you said, finished up much better than I anticipated too. Instead of the grainy finish you were expecting, you’ve now got a lovely darth Vader helmet looking black, love it!
It never seizes to amaze me how much work you get done in one day Del. Setting up the camera, getting the best shot and painting a set of wheels, most impressive.
The way you cut off the excess from the masking tape too was meticulous. You would make a great chef....
I’m loving this stage of the build now, starting to see what the bike will end up looking like and also fascinating to see you completing the mechanical side of the build, ready for the big launch in the Spring / Summer!!!
Cracking stuff, thank you!
Hey Brother, how nice to hear from you... ! You know yourself how much goes in to a video, but it's a labour of love aye?! And I'd never make a chef unless it all goes in one saucepan lol... roll on summer, we'll see you for that ride buddy... have a great weekend, D&Pxx
i know I'm kinda off topic but do anybody know of a good place to stream newly released movies online?
@Jaxtyn Allan flixportal :)
@Weston Emmett Thank you, I went there and it seems like they got a lot of movies there =) I appreciate it !
@Jaxtyn Allan glad I could help :D
Thanks for putting quality music and only a small amount, let this be an example to everyone including me.
Hi Dell, the wheels look lush, been waiting ages for you to paint them, thanks for the tip about the seating of the disks, I'm hoping to get my wheels off and painted before the spring so this has given me a little inspiration. Looking forward to seeing the results and the rest of the skills videos. Keep up the good work. Enjoying your channel.
Thanks mate, they are all dried and satin'ed off now, I did a little close up look round them in tomorrow's video, they have come out rather well... good luck with yours mate, hope you get a great result, all the best...
Ace work! Looks really sleek in black and follows its original scheme. Really common for 7r owners to put a 180 rear tyre on for sharper turner, when I bought mine it had a 180 fitted but I switched to a 190, I've always ran a 190 on the rear including for trackdays and its been perfect. A new rear shock will make such a difference especially if its still on the OEM shock, Looking forward to seeing this all together and running
Hi Matthew, thanks for your input, I think you're right, there have been lots of words expressed on the whole 180 back tyre thing for 6" rims, but I personally can't feel the difference at my level of riding... so am going 190 too! And yes indeed, I have something special planned for the rear shock as having re-built the forks already, I wanna make the most of the way it handles, as that's what fighters are all about aye?!
Nicely done Del, love the way you set things up/work.
simple method stunning results, wheels look mint if i do say, awesome job Del! everytime i sit down and watch a video im captivated by the amount of effort put into every little detail, think ill just stick to trying to look ratty to get away with the bodges ;) keep em up man you keep my morning interesting!
Thanks Kieran, I so miss being ratty and I see another rat bike on the horizon before too long! Thanks for your kind words mate...
oh boy! im gunna be like a little kid at Christmas when the day comes ahaha
Nice job there Del.I did my Firestorm wheels Ducati gold back in the early naughtys, and they turned out really well.Cheers for the vid!
great job del. i like the way you spun the wheels well spraying. i think i will use the same setup
when i paint my wheels in the sumer..
Good idea mate, couple of axle stands and a crow bar, job done!
Old video, but I thought I’d comment as I have done just this.. I bought some spare wheels for my ZX12R A2, and painted them in Kawasaki lime green 777..
They came out pretty good, but I had to re-do the rear wheel as I wasn’t happy with the finish. I held the spray can too far from the wheel at times, so the paint dried in the air so left the surface of the wheel rough in places..
It’s also quite hard to get the paint into that outer groove of the wheel. I had to hold the can at quite an acute angle so the paint reached the corners of this groove.. If you know what I mean 💁🏻♂️😄
Good video 👍🏼 (Edit.. I have the same old Halfords axle stands, which I used for painting too) 😂👍🏼
Sounds like you had fun with it mate, and always handy to have a spare set of wheels.. ! Thanks for sharing.
Hi Del,
Apologies for dragging up such an old video but I've only recently got into your channel.
Just an observation on you cleaning out the threads using a tap. I used to do the same but recently discovered that that is actually a bad thing to do as it removes more of the thread.
The correct tool is a thread chaser but being half Scottish I made my own by cutting a couple of slots in a suitable sized bolt.
Just thought you might be interested (and apologies if you already knew that, couldn't quite tell from the speeded up video)
Ben
Hi Ben, there is such a thing as a thread chaser, but it's not a different size to a regular tap, they are just cut right to their end with no chamfer, if you've experienced curly swarf coming out when you clean a thread, then the thread was either a different size to the tap (unlikely), or more likely the initial factory thread was inaccurate... most engineering taps you buy of any quality are extremely precise and if you cut a bolt with a die they should fit together like silk, but again mass produced bolts are often inaccurate, especially when they're zinc plated... if you use a regular thread tap carefully and don't force it, it will clean out paint and corrosion plus, most importantly, old threadlock debris really well... the trick is not to force it, just go gently with one hand and lots of lubricant... but I have to say, I love your ghetto fix of a slotted bolt, that works pretty much the same was as a tap, as long as the bolt itself is a nice precise engineering bolt and not a cheap wobbly thing! Anything to save a penny aye, love your thinking!
@@Moonfleet41 My understanding is the chaser doesn't have a cutting edge so will not re cut the thread.
Running a normal tap down a FRESH hole should not result in any issue.
But if you have an older thread that has deformed slightly over time from torqueing etc (as they all do) the tap will re cut it to the correct thread again, removing material and making it loose.
Used the Simoniz Tough Black Satin Black spray paint on my Bmw 666m alloys, really happy with the finish!
Awesome job Del, they look absolutely stunning. I really got to try that tough black paint out!! Swing arm bearing video you say, that's one I'll look forward to watching. On my to do list at some point as well. Awrabest mate. Al.
Thanks Al, it seems a lot of people are waiting for the swing arm bearings video, so I better make a good job of it aye lol !
Awesome!
Excellent as is the norm . clear precise information .keep up the good work
Thank you Mike, very kind of you my friend... appreciated
“...and it’ll be ready to call Mackie for the paint.” When you put it that way, it sounds a doddle. Looking good.
Thanks mate, it won't be long!
Good work , it’s all in the prep even taking time to roll the masking tape. Always good to see your vids mate 👍🏻
Thanks buddy, if a job's worth doing aye.....
Well done Del....really enjoying this build. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you buddy, appreciate your support !
Great job delboy, gonna use this method to paint my B12 Bandit wheels.
All the best.
very nice job you did there dell. iam looking forward to watching the engine painting I want to tidy mine up but can't take the bike off the road so I am hoping to pick up a few tips when you do yours.
Hi Brian, probably not gonna paint the engine actually cos it's about the only decent part of the bike! But certainly doing the frame and the engine won't be coming out for that... and it's the same principle, will be on to it very soon!
Great job del mate
HI Dell, I am restoring a Honda Blackbird and am using your videos on how to do things. Head stock bearing done, next the swingarm so I found your vid on that excellent. I like this video about painting the wheels as that is a job I have to do also. Can you tell me what paint you used as it seems like it did and excellent job. Many thanks Peter
I used Simoniz Tough Paint for these wheels, and it stood up really well once the bike was on the road. Good luck with your project mate.
Awesome,,,, Love The Paint Job... Excellent Work .
Thanks Paul, really happy with the results...!
Yup, looks way better then that gold paint that was on there. Looks the business. 👍
They are looking great Del, That's a good painting hand !!! Like the colour matching parts. thanks, Gus
Thanks Gus, much appreciated!
not going to lie, painting rims looks like a ton of fun. must be really satisfying to spin and paint.
It totally is mate, and its a fraction of the cost of getting someone else to do it too .!
Love the spinning wheels idea. I think I'll use my weight bench 😅.
They look awesome Del. Very useful information. I think I'll put this info to good use and paint my truck rims.
That's cool buddy, let us know how it goes - thanks for watching!
Great video Del, wheels have come out really well, the finish is getting closer
Cheers mate, I keep thinking that, then I discover 6 more things to do - you know how it is brother!
Another crackin' job buddy, I don't know how you find the time :)
It's been a lot easier since I bought that Tardis lol... catch up in the week buddy!
Wheels look great Del. I need to find a local bike workshop where the engineers move as fast as you did on that time lapse - full service in 30 seconds!
The wonders of time lapse aye?! Good to hear from you mate, look forward to better weather and see ya for the Q&A!
nice job.going to use tough black on truck wheels this summer. used it many times great stuff, hard wearing.all the best.
Good luck with it Rob.
Your a beast at doing stuff like this!!
I love a flawless black paint job. That said, I don't like black wheels, mostly because every broke high-schooler with a rattle can has blacked-out wheels (and NOS stickers) on their pimp-mobile hand-me-down Honda Civic. It's a trend that started in the late 90's, went out of control, and now it's just tired. (That was a terrible pun.) It's my own personal pet-peeve. When I do black wheels on my projects (which is rare) I always polish out the edge of the rims because after two or three tire changes those edges will be chipped up and shabby looking if they're painted. Loving this build series.
Like the full day time lapse idea, wheels look great
Thanks - really satisfying day in the garage!
nice job del....iv done same several times but removed those unsightly casting numbers and letters tidies wheels right up.
Thanks mate, yeah did consider it for a minute, maybe I could have got to it, just struggling with time and really wanted to get things moving...!
An amazing job they look brilliant, I can wait for you to get stuck into the cycle parts and see what paint job goes on the bike!
Thanks mate, cycle parts won't take as long as the rest, and am looking forward to getting to the paint too!
Really cool vid, thanks for all the tips!!!😁👍👍
Good job Del Boy
I get the sad's when the videos end... just wanna keep on watching 👌
Thanks mate, you're very kind, be another one in the morning!
Beautiful finish on the wheels.
Overspray everywhere....In that nice garage
P. Some good tips there Del, they look nice 👍😎
Gee you're up early 👍😎
Great video as always Guy’s
Keep them coming , Im already waiting For that swingarm !!!!
Thanks buddy, coming soon!
have the wheels been deseamed they look very nice.
Thanks but Not deseamed Lewis, standard rims on the ZX-7R
@@Moonfleet41 nice youve saved me a lot of money over the years ,plus you use tools i can afford keep it coming and i think for sure you need to do an engine rebuild or a gear box over haul we all know you can ,just shut the doubters up.
factory job with rattle cans !! awesome as always your prep work is beyond stellar creating such a fine finished product.
Thank you my friend , that's very kind... all paint work needs flawless preparation, even if it's for a rattle can, don't ya think!
from the time lapse angle,, the tank and tail go well together
Thanks mate , much appreciated, am gonna re-make another little tank console, much smaller than the last thing, and a lot more stylish, so hopefully it will all blend in nicely ! Thanks for watching mate...
How did the paint hold up over time with washing and alikes
Great video, awesome job on the wheel Del. Penny and you have a great weekend. Cheers
And you buddy, just uploading another video for ya... then we're off for some R&R !
Great work del 👍🏻paint the bike yellow with trotters independent traders paint work by bass 😀Paris peckem newyork 🖐
You the man dellboy
Really nice job on the wheels.
I’m currently looking to restore some rims myself and am trying to weigh up all the different options. What made you decide to paint the rims instead of powder coat? How has the paint held up over time?
Keep up great videos!
Decided on cost and convenience, a few rattle cans of 'Tough Black" is way cheaper then having a company powdercoat them.. and after 2 years, they're still perfect without a single chip of flake.!
@@Moonfleet41 Awesome, thank you for the info! I think I'm going to see how painting goes first :)
Shame your not taking the engine out ! That's one video I'd like to see... Have a bike that I need to drop the engine out of because second gear is buggered, new gearbox needed. Plus I have another I'm breaking - no idea how difficult it really is
Taking an engine out is a piece of cake mate, once you disconnect the wiring loom and engine mounts, it drops out... depends what bike it's on, maybe get yourself a manual just for any unique features you need to be aware of... good luck with it!
Hi I think shot is a bit harsh on the aluminum as it leaves a very rough finish, I find sand is so much better then you get an even better finish with the paint. Also I always fill the threaded holes with silicone sealer then there is no need to run a die through them even with shot it bounces of and it comes out easy.
I meant to mention you can also use old bolts though metric fine bolts if needed aren't as common as most.I also never shot blast a frame or worse powder coat it, its horrible. If its bad sand blast or if not so bad use paint stripper wire brush and kill any rust with rust eater, then prime and paint. Jap bikes I don't even prime in the 60's 70's they didn't prime or undercoat. I use spray tins and people are surprised at how original the finish looks, and I'm by no means an expert. Of course if your going to ride the bike through winters then I guess powder coating would be more durable.
Do I have to rub down with sand paper or scotch bright after each coat is dry on my motorbike wheels so paint dont run? Didn't see you do it, maby as spinning the wheel maby?
No the whole job was done in one, light coats, with expanding flash off times along the way, rotating the wheels helps with coverage, but it doesn't run as long as you lay it up light and leave the right flash times between coats. !
Nice nice. Not long now bruv. Fish line in in sight. The swinger is my next interest as I am doing a bearing replacement too. I would have beaten them in with a hammer instead I'll wait till you do it and I'll just copy how you do it lol. Exam cheat I was lol. Thanks sell I'll get an A+ on this one. Ride safe bruv
Hi mate, even if you saw a pair of swing arm bearings in the packet, you'd realise you can't beat them in, but I have a little ghetto trick that will get you out of trouble... coming soon mate!
Looking good.
Thanks.. you done a great job..
WELL Done m8 it,s going to look fantastic,,,
Wheels look superb buddy, well done.
Thanks Stu, good to hear from ya!
Another great job Del
Wheels look great Del. I must admit I'm a convert to the tough black paint, like you say it just seems to be a little more forgiving as it flows out. Would it not have made sense to tape/mask of the mating surfaces for the disks when blasting the wheels as well ?
Anyway look forward to the next step and finally seeing Mackie work his magic on the paint.
Hi mate, if the blasting takes of powder coat, how long would the masking tape last lol ... seriously, you can't mask them off, it's almost impossible to mask anything from grit blasting, and yep, am looking forward to the final paint too! Thanks buddy...
Well when we do it at work(not that often) we use electrical tape and it lasts no problem though we try not to focus the gun on the machined surface. We only using a hobby type clarke cabinet set up though and our media is probably softer than what a pro would use.
Hi Del, I need some advise on spray painting please, I noticed in this video you just spray the wheels without primer but in the swing arm video you use primer??? The reason i ask is i want to spray my clock bracket on my zx7r, would you just use the tough paint or would you use a primer first? Thanks john.
Tough paint can be used either with or without primer, it bonds very well to bare metal, much like the Hammerite paints used to.. So if you're just painting a simple bracket, or wheels, you can apply it direct to the metal... but if you want a much smoother finish, then some primer will give you a base coat you can sand down to improve the surface,, Choice is yours mate..! Good luck with it. !
@Moonfleet41 thank you del.
Great tips here del !
Wheels look good Del 👍🏻
Hey Del, revisiting some of your videos and whilst watching I had a thought. Could I use the tough black paint to paint my rear pegs on my bike. What do you think would it work? Cheers Scott
Another great vid, nice set up.
That black is good.
Did you use primer, or did i miss it ?
This was "Simoniz Tough Paint", a specified stone chip paint, similar in principle to hammerite, it goes onto bare metal with no need for primer, and remains flexible and durable for years rather then going rock hard and chipping later on.
To be fair, it does look like the paint went on well...good job.
Thanks mate, I was lucky with the outcome, got the conditions right and took my time, and that made it a lot easier!
Great but what paint r u using please
You fit ya own tyres now del ? All the gear u have by now .. I just put a pilot gt on my front gsx 14 nice work
I generally do indeed fit my own tyres!
@Moonfleet41 happy days I was going to ask if you use a tool/machine ? If so which 1 ..I'm after a decent 1 amd know you often buy good tools ..(I love my tools also ). As I done it via pry bars and a vice to break the beads . Ideally to help prevent Amy marking of the wheels as I'm.about to refurb them and go back black ....thanks in advance del
@@kevinhancock4064 I use this to break the beads, and then just tyre levers and rim protector strips, it is a lot of work but works ok if you're careful... but if i have a fragile rim a truly cannot afford to mark, then i take the wheels to a mate of mine who has a proper tyre machine. ! www.spanner-monkey.co.uk/tyre-bead-breaker-119971?search=TC968&description=true
you made that look so easy
Hi Delboy, why did you choose to spray paint rather that powder coat, lovely job by the way
Because I can't powder coat at home mate, certainly not wheels anyway, and why pay for someone else to do it, when I can do it myself for the price of a couple of cans of stone chip paint!
Perfect reply bud haha, love your work just wish i had the space to do some of my own, appreciate the reply top man
Do you have a link to that paint please?
Nicely done, Del... truly magnificent work. How many spray cans did it take? Any need to seal the paint now? From cold and rainy Delaware (I feel like I’m back in Pimlico in ‘92...!)...
Hi Gary, no this is a single coat finish, it'll come out satin black, and be robust and flexible for years to come.... I used 3.1/2 cans to paint the wheels and sprocket carrier! Hope the weather gets better for ya... no different here lol !
ok thx, Del...!
Hi Del and Penny, hope all's well for you guys.....
Just a quick one.......did you use any primer on the bare metal, if so which one???
Ta muchly.....Gaz.
Hi Gaz, god to hear from you mate... as you may have seen in the video, I didn't use any primer on the wheels at all... the Tough Black paint is formulated to straight on bare metal, provided it's sufficiently keyed to grip it, and as you saw, they'd been shot blasted, so had a fabulous, textured, grainy finish, just perfect for paint !
However, I will use some primer on the swing arm this weekend, because the outside faces of the swing arm are smooth - haven't had the wing arm blasted, cos unlike the wheels, it wasn't powder coated, or corroded... if you remember the wheels had lots of gold paint on them, and it all had to come off, whereas the swing arm was just cleaned off with a soft disc, so for that am gonna use some Etch Primer of the same brand as the paint, so Simoniz Etch Primer followed by Simoniz Tough Paint... hope that helps mate...
Basic rule of thumb is to use Etch Primer on smooth metal, regular primer on regular keyed metal and non for the Tough Black as it's formulated to go straight on bare metal. There are other paints like this, such as Exhaust Manifold Paint and Hammerite...!
Hi Del looking good see you on the next one
Thanks Stephen, much appreciated!
hey mate doesnt that paint require a primer first
No mate, it doesn't.. it's like Hammerite, it goes straight on to bare metal, but only if that metal is keyed, or a textured surface like my wheels... but if it's really smooth metal, then you would use an Etch Primer to get a bite on it... otherwise just rough it up with some 240grit and you're good to go after a de-grease !
ahhh ok ive never heard of that before , as you know im from Australia and i use to work as a sand blaster spray painter and we always used some sought of primer after blasting and didnt matter what material was being blasted or what we were blasting with whether it was metal grit , ceremic garnet or even water blasting we used a primer before top coat
Yeah, i think you have a point, as any general rule of thumb you should always prime bare metal.. but this product, much like hammerite, and exhaust header paint can survive being painted directly onto bare metal unless its really smooth... i guess its just a specific formulation.. the exception not the rule aye... cheers mate and hope its warmer where you are.. its bloody freezing here today... Del.
Bun fight!! Yes!! 😀
NICE
The wheels have come out looking awesome mate, look forward to seeing them back on the bike. How many cans did you use for both wheels?
3.1/2 cans in all mate, and it's dried nice and hard even in just 48hrs !
Do you have any advice or a video about painting wheels with tyres on please?
Yes, there's a few mate, in various projects over the years, simply the trick is to paint the wheels as normal, but to mask out the tyres, here's a great way to do it... deflate the tyre totally flat, gently push the tyre wall away from the rim and slip a playing card in the gap, then slip another next to it slightly overlapping, and keep doing that all the way round the tyre till you have playing cards tucked inside the lip, all the way round... do the other side too, tape off the rest of the tyre in the usually way with newspaper and then paint away till you heart's content.. you can squirt the paint right down in to the bead lip, knowing it won't go on the rubber, then when done, ship the cards out and re-inflate the tyre... job done!
@@Moonfleet41 thank you very much..... You are a wealth of knowledge
@@Moonfleet41 do i need to sand to bare metal if just spraying wheels with the hard wearing black spraypaint? .... Wheels are currently black if need to know that.
nice
looks nice job from rattle can. why didn't you cover motorbike OVER SPRAY. + looks good for the environment. not controlled spay booth. ????
Wheelie great vid Del
See what you did there lol !
Very clean work Del!
May I ask why you didn't do the bearings and seals before you did this paint job? I'd be scared to work on rims with fresh paint and if you scratched a bare metal rim it's easy to fix.
Can't wait for the swingarm bush video; I've been meaning to do mine for a while now
Never scratched a rim replacing wheel bearings so far, and also it's a greasy business, so even one fingerprint on the bare alloy is yet more to deal with when it comes to paint... as I showed, and explained, the surface was grainy and rough, and any grease on it at all would have practically been absorbed and been almost impossible to remove... it's tyres next, then I'll do the bearings, and put the discs on!
Fair call mate and sound logic
nice job
I like the stands you spun the wheels on to paint and will do the same to paint mine.i
Just common sense aye.
Great job del, look really good. One question, why paint over powder coating? not questioning your choice, just wondering if there is a reason.
I think I said in the video mate, it's cheaper, I can apply it myself rather than pay someone else £60 to do it for me, it's more durable and less liable to chip like powder coat, but I don't think it's better, or worse, than powder, it's just another option mate, and as I wanna do all this bike myself, then this was the best way to go!
(P) Getting exciting! Could it really be that close to being done?! Great video, as always!
It certainly seems closer all of a sudden mate! Wheels, swing arm, rear shock, paint frame, then paint bodywork... not a big 'to do' list anymore!
Tough Black paint? Who is the manufacturer and can it be purchased in America? Thanking you in advance for the info. I ride a 2008 H-D Dyna and a 2017 Triumph Street Cup. Bill
Hi Bill, the manufacurer is SImoniz and am not sure if they sell in the USA, but the nearest equivalent that you have in terms of paint brand would be one of the Rustoleum products, you're looking for something designed for crash bars and railings, it's mineral spirit based and doesn't dry rock hard, so gives a durable, resiliant finish - hope that helps you, best of luck, Del
Dell... How does the paint hold?.... Still good and tough?
Almost two years on, pretty much unmarked mate..!
Looking good mate, tank looks more at home too. Just a quick question regarding tyres can i put a 120 on a 110 rim ( bandit 6 front ) ?
👍🏻
Hi Lewis, you bike should have a 120 on the front as standard, so if you're running a 110 at the minute, then you'll be returning it back to what it should be mate, as long as it's a 120/60...
Thats interesting. Always thought it looked a bit skinny. Ill have to have a closer look and check whats on there. Cheers muchly 👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Del, I take it you don't need to use a primer with the rattle can you used??
Hi Kevin, it's nothing to do with rattle cans mate, it's the paint in them, this Tough paint goes on to bare metal without primer on all but the shiniest finishes... but on any metal that's smooth and shiney use an Etch Primer, but if like these rims, it's rough and grainy, this Tough Paint sticks just fine, as just like exhaust paint, and Hammerite, it's designed to go over bare metal!
Moonfleet41 can you tell us what paint you used?
looking good del keep up the good work :)
hi del great vid as always. now for the silly part could that paint be used on a engine ???
Yes mate, it can, I used it on the engine of my Triumph Tiger rat bike and it was absolutely fine!