Short and sweet! I like it. So my progression was: Grizzly table saw, Sawstop (Which I still have), used Hammer K3 Winner, 10' Martin T70. One little taste of the Hammer slider and it drove home what I already knew...the Europeans had it figured out long ago! Enjoy the slider. It changes everything.
For anyone doing this for themselves: I highly recommend doubling the LR32 holes at 16mm apart. It makes it much, much easier to fit systainers in there afterwards without any wasted space. On the Gen I and T-Loc everything went out the window the moment one stacks a no. II systainer in there as it has an odd stacking height of 1.5. That would always leave an unnecessary gap between drawers.
Jason, I have gathered 20 sys-drawers off craigslist over the last year or so at an average cost of about $35 each. For those of you wanting to build these keep an eye out as many others buy these but bailout on their project and will sell at a reasonable price. I will be building ten units in about two to three weeks, and I will be using a very simular installation method. Primarily an adjustable foot in place of a toe-kick to support the weight on the front side. In using this I will be placing the bottom of the first or bottom cabinet on the outside, not the inside as you have done. I know you build cabinets and usually the bottoms are placed inside due to sheer strength. But in this orientation, like the instructions that come with the drawers recommend, placing the bottom on the outside is best when supporting from the bottom (at least for the bottom cabinets). The instructions I believe are trying to replicate the old mobile M1000 with casters and placing the bottom on the outside is much stronger in supporting the weight. I hope this makes sense? Anyway, I will have ten cabinets total, two high and five wide. And my suppliers here in California still have Baltic Birch, it will cost about $1200 to build. 😒 I love the Lamelo, and the new Hammer, but I'm sticking with my Domino and Sawstop for this project. All the Best, Chuck.
As always a great teacher and very informative and clear. I am looking forward to getting the plans and plan on adapting it to fit into my new workbench build.
Thanks Jason! I have been looking forward to this video. I was surprised to see the small foot print of this. I will check out your plans. I only have 9 sustainers, I know "rookie". Thanks again!
if only I could get that vac sys. I didn't realize the value of it until it was no longer available. that paired with the lamello would make for some quick cabinets. edit: fantastic idea with the back strip installed level with a laser. that has to be the quickest/easiest way to end up level.
Love the use of tenso connectors to bring your panels together, but probably a very expensive solution for anyone not doing premium cabinet work. If you were to scale that up to your standard built in wardrobes, it would probably run you $300+ in connectors.
Great video as always Jason. The Lamello is a great tool. Using the auxiliary baseplate would have helped steady it a bit more and goes on and off so easy I try to use it when I need extra support. When I got my Festool VacSys I decided to buy the double unit and it has come in very handy especially for doors or large panels. Glad to see you are getting so much use out of the slider. Was that the new Festool 12volt CXS drill you were using? If so how do you like it and do you have a review on it?Thanks for sharing and keep up the great content. Ron
When you have some free time, check the toe out from the slider and rip fence to the blade. I saw a bit of burning on the edges of your plywood. That shouldn’t happen with a properly calibrated slider. I haven’t had a burned edge in years, and that includes 8/4 hardwoods like white oak.
This looks dope! I carry my systainers in my van, I haven’t seen anyone with the festool slide drawers in a mobile install. Based on the feel and the slide strength and the latch, in your opinion, could they last in a well maintained van?
Connectors, glue and screws? Don’t understand the reason for this. What are the benefits of using these connectors instead of simple dominos or dowels?
I did want to fuss with clamp’s during the glue up. That’s the point of these connectors. You can use anything you want. This is just what I chose for this project. Structurally there was no benefit over another technique here other than I could snap it together and set it aside
In Germany they can be had for around 36 Euros per slide if you buy the set (of 5). You can also buy the Tanos ones, which are slightly cheaper (also in Germany) and are exactly the same besides the color (grey instead of festool-green).
I'm confused... why a track saw was not used...(??) Maybe it's more phun, phrom time to time? Alternative spelling for how us mustang officers mess(ed) with academy ring-dings!
"...18mm, or for the weird people, 3/4 of an inch" 🤣 I can't imagine building cabinets in imperial. Those poor people, they don't know how easy it could be
The reason is because numbers and math are damn near impossible to change as an adult. No one really knows why. My mother did all of her arithmetic in Japanese because when she was in grade school, it was under Japanese rule and Korean was forbidden. I grew up on Korea so I do arithmetic in Korean (in my head) but do algebra/calculus/Diff EQ in English. Also, it's hard to "visually see" what 53mm looks like. Just like it's hard for you to quickly visualize how long a 144" piece is. So w/o a forcing function, it'll never change. If you go to the military, you do learn in metric. Everything is in klicks (kilometers) and meters. When you read a map, when you move out, when you call for fire, it's all in meters/km. Strangely though, all aviation is in Imperial (knots and feet) the world over.
What I don't get is why people think one way is easier or more difficult than the other. I went from metric to imperial since it's just a preference but 90% of the time I use relative dimensioning so I don't do any math.
Great project. I have a small systainer cart on wheels. But It only holds like 3 or 4. LOL> And I already have more sitting on the floor next to it. And I definitely have goals for a few others. This would be great. I’d like to get a systainer for my TSO stuff as well. I find myself being drawn more and more to metric. It is easier. But I still don’t have it down. Like… I know what 3/4” looks like visually. BUt what is that in metric? I want to say 18 off my head. But I’d have to look. LOL. I did however buy the same tape measure you showed in one of your videos that is both. And I love it. I use it often and it’s my favorite. My next shop piece will be in metric. I do agree… the numbers are just easier. Who wants to try to figure out what 5/16 really is when you can just say….8mm
This is'nt a critiscim, but I've noticed that most American woodworkers never seem to have a blade guard on their panel / rip / dimension saw. Is this normal practise in the US? Here in the UK it's common practise to always have the blade guard in place and if a health and safety offical came calling and saw it was missing, he/she wouldn't be impressed....Very impressive cabinets btw!
@@MrMaritoJavier My orginal question was asked in good faith, and as I stated there was no critiscim intended, but for some reason you seem to have taken offense to it, I've no idea why? Does the US not have regs in place to protect workers?....Oh wait a minute, yes it does, OSHA says '1910.213(a)(12) For all circular saws where conditions are such that there is a possibility of contact with the portion of the saw either beneath or behind the table, that portion of the saw shall be covered with an exhaust hood, or, if no exhaust system is required, with a guard that shall be so arranged as to prevent accidental contact with the saw. Using safe practises in any working envrioment, especially ones with potentiely dangerous machines in it seems sensible to me, and God forbid there's a time you're picking your fingers from one hand off the floor with the fingers on your other hand don't come crying to me. '
Not criticize your skill, but I do wonder why use plywood when a cabinet made out of Cherry or another hardwood would be more elegant and better for own personal use 🤔
@@danielakerman8241 because I don't do cheap shit or half ass stuff. You want business why don't you demonstrate your skills with high quality materials?
Making stuff with hard wood doesn’t show more skill… so what is the use to do that? Furthermore the audience is not likely to use very expensive wood for this project. So what is the use to use hard wood?
@@erwin757 first of all it does. Because working with different types of hardwood you learn how easily each material can be to work with. 2nd thing, you are limiting your skill level and knowledge Because you choose to work with cheap materials. You must like buying made in China stuff, because most Americans that take pride in their work use only the best materials.
@@joshduehr2898 while you are drawing the American citizen card, you make an very shallow assumption that other nations citizens have no pride in the stuff that they are making. Also the greatest nation of the world stuff is getting old and bored, especially when I can walk in my hospital in my town and get care while not going bankrupt. I am also very proud of my country that doesn’t put up with a former president that is indicted for xx counts. That said ontopic: he is not making a furniture piece for the living room but a cabinet in his workshop…
Plans, Cut Lists, or SketchUp File can be purchased at www.bentswoodworking.com/store
Short and sweet! I like it. So my progression was: Grizzly table saw, Sawstop (Which I still have), used Hammer K3 Winner, 10' Martin T70. One little taste of the Hammer slider and it drove home what I already knew...the Europeans had it figured out long ago! Enjoy the slider. It changes everything.
That is sweet, I’ll definitely be doing this in the shop!!! Thanks for sharing Jason!
👊🏼👊🏼
Very helpful I’m planning on building a couple rolling ones for mobile woodshop
For anyone doing this for themselves: I highly recommend doubling the LR32 holes at 16mm apart. It makes it much, much easier to fit systainers in there afterwards without any wasted space. On the Gen I and T-Loc everything went out the window the moment one stacks a no. II systainer in there as it has an odd stacking height of 1.5. That would always leave an unnecessary gap between drawers.
Jason, I have gathered 20 sys-drawers off craigslist over the last year or so at an average cost of about $35 each. For those of you wanting to build these keep an eye out as many others buy these but bailout on their project and will sell at a reasonable price.
I will be building ten units in about two to three weeks, and I will be using a very simular installation method. Primarily an adjustable foot in place of a toe-kick to support the weight on the front side. In using this I will be placing the bottom of the first or bottom cabinet on the outside, not the inside as you have done. I know you build cabinets and usually the bottoms are placed inside due to sheer strength. But in this orientation, like the instructions that come with the drawers recommend, placing the bottom on the outside is best when supporting from the bottom (at least for the bottom cabinets). The instructions I believe are trying to replicate the old mobile M1000 with casters and placing the bottom on the outside is much stronger in supporting the weight. I hope this makes sense?
Anyway, I will have ten cabinets total, two high and five wide. And my suppliers here in California still have Baltic Birch, it will cost about $1200 to build. 😒
I love the Lamelo, and the new Hammer, but I'm sticking with my Domino and Sawstop for this project.
All the Best, Chuck.
As always a great teacher and very informative and clear. I am looking forward to getting the plans and plan on adapting it to fit into my new workbench build.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks Jason! I have been looking forward to this video. I was surprised to see the small foot print of this. I will check out your plans. I only have 9 sustainers, I know "rookie". Thanks again!
Awesome, I’m about to do this project as well!
Have fun!
Nice! Looking like a proper mini-Sedgetool :)
Lol
Awesome thanks! You enjoying using them? Btw - whats the suction (I assume) rotating bench clamp?? It looks awesome!!
if only I could get that vac sys. I didn't realize the value of it until it was no longer available. that paired with the lamello would make for some quick cabinets.
edit: fantastic idea with the back strip installed level with a laser. that has to be the quickest/easiest way to end up level.
Vac sys is a solid tool!
Love the use of tenso connectors to bring your panels together, but probably a very expensive solution for anyone not doing premium cabinet work.
If you were to scale that up to your standard built in wardrobes, it would probably run you $300+ in connectors.
Great video as always Jason. The Lamello is a great tool. Using the auxiliary baseplate would have helped steady it a bit more and goes on and off so easy I try to use it when I need extra support. When I got my Festool VacSys I decided to buy the double unit and it has come in very handy especially for doors or large panels.
Glad to see you are getting so much use out of the slider.
Was that the new Festool 12volt CXS drill you were using? If so how do you like it and do you have a review on it?Thanks for sharing and keep up the great content.
Ron
It is and I don’t have a specific review on it. It’s a great little drill. Definitely more power than the previous
@@bentswoodworking
Thanks for the reply and information. I will have to give the new one a try.
Hope you are doing well. Could you let me know what kind of blade you are using on your Kapex?
It is a Tenryu blade
I did not come here to laugh at Mike Coffey's expense but quick and thick was TOO FUNNY!
Great video! Very helpful, I want a lam LaMelo now.
Go for it!
Looks am great job
When you have some free time, check the toe out from the slider and rip fence to the blade. I saw a bit of burning on the edges of your plywood. That shouldn’t happen with a properly calibrated slider. I haven’t had a burned edge in years, and that includes 8/4 hardwoods like white oak.
It was my rip fence to blade. I noticed it on the first sheet and had to adjust it. My slide toes out about 4 thousandths
This looks dope! I carry my systainers in my van, I haven’t seen anyone with the festool slide drawers in a mobile install. Based on the feel and the slide strength and the latch, in your opinion, could they last in a well maintained van?
I definitely this they would be great for that
What is that bench vise with the suction cup called…never seen it before and I want one!!
Hey Jason, I purchased the plans the other day. Wondering if you have a link to the screws you mounted the slides with. thx. jm
the Zeta P2 is my next big purchase. Don't even have a pressing need for one. Just want it.
Did you change out the power cord on the Lamello?
Heavy sustainers on the bottom, your go too tools centred and sometimes on top.👍🇨🇦
It’s the weirdest thing…Mike Coffey told me that was your nickname too.
🤣
Where do you get Baltic birch?
My supplier still gets it
@@bentswoodworking
Lucky.
Exellent job
깔끔하다!!
Slick!
FYI…your bio on the website says you served 200 years in the Army. That has to be some kind of record! 😊
Last Mexican War veteran left.
What blade is that on the Kapex?
Tenryu
Connectors, glue and screws? Don’t understand the reason for this. What are the benefits of using these connectors instead of simple dominos or dowels?
No clamping needed.
I did want to fuss with clamp’s during the glue up. That’s the point of these connectors. You can use anything you want. This is just what I chose for this project. Structurally there was no benefit over another technique here other than I could snap it together and set it aside
Understand… yes for that it is very comfortable 😂
awesome first to view ! woohoo ! you rock J
You rock!
And at $53.00/ tray, that's a lot of money! Not to mention that there is almost nowhere to get baltic birch these days. Nice cabinets though.
In Germany they can be had for around 36 Euros per slide if you buy the set (of 5). You can also buy the Tanos ones, which are slightly cheaper (also in Germany) and are exactly the same besides the color (grey instead of festool-green).
I had the same thought about the Festool slides. You’re using the LR32 system, can’t you just use plywood selves?
Whats up with Baltic birch ply? I got no issues finding it, although it's a little pricey, but what isn't these days.
thats why you got a new table saw. lol
LOL. This made me crack up more than it should have.
I'm confused... why a track saw was not used...(??)
Maybe it's more phun, phrom time to time?
Alternative spelling for how us mustang officers mess(ed) with academy ring-dings!
He didn't use a track saw because he has a sliding table saw wich does the job way faster
"...18mm, or for the weird people, 3/4 of an inch" 🤣 I can't imagine building cabinets in imperial. Those poor people, they don't know how easy it could be
The reason is because numbers and math are damn near impossible to change as an adult. No one really knows why. My mother did all of her arithmetic in Japanese because when she was in grade school, it was under Japanese rule and Korean was forbidden. I grew up on Korea so I do arithmetic in Korean (in my head) but do algebra/calculus/Diff EQ in English. Also, it's hard to "visually see" what 53mm looks like. Just like it's hard for you to quickly visualize how long a 144" piece is.
So w/o a forcing function, it'll never change. If you go to the military, you do learn in metric. Everything is in klicks (kilometers) and meters. When you read a map, when you move out, when you call for fire, it's all in meters/km. Strangely though, all aviation is in Imperial (knots and feet) the world over.
What I don't get is why people think one way is easier or more difficult than the other. I went from metric to imperial since it's just a preference but 90% of the time I use relative dimensioning so I don't do any math.
Great project. I have a small systainer cart on wheels. But It only holds like 3 or 4. LOL> And I already have more sitting on the floor next to it. And I definitely have goals for a few others. This would be great. I’d like to get a systainer for my TSO stuff as well.
I find myself being drawn more and more to metric. It is easier. But I still don’t have it down. Like… I know what 3/4” looks like visually. BUt what is that in metric? I want to say 18 off my head. But I’d have to look. LOL. I did however buy the same tape measure you showed in one of your videos that is both. And I love it. I use it often and it’s my favorite. My next shop piece will be in metric. I do agree… the numbers are just easier. Who wants to try to figure out what 5/16 really is when you can just say….8mm
Yep, agreed, but I bet you think of sheet goods like this: “An 8 by 4 sheet of 18mm ply”…
556
This is'nt a critiscim, but I've noticed that most American woodworkers never seem to have a blade guard on their panel / rip / dimension saw. Is this normal practise in the US? Here in the UK it's common practise to always have the blade guard in place and if a health and safety offical came calling and saw it was missing, he/she wouldn't be impressed....Very impressive cabinets btw!
Safety official. Lol. Does he/she/zhe also check the dirt under your fingernails?
@@MrMaritoJavier No, but at least we still have fingers to have nails on!
@@sicr7373 And what color do you typically polish your nails with? Lol. Go and watch some figure skating.
Why is it the govt’s job to protect your fingers from yourself?
@@MrMaritoJavier My orginal question was asked in good faith, and as I stated there was no critiscim intended, but for some reason you seem to have taken offense to it, I've no idea why? Does the US not have regs in place to protect workers?....Oh wait a minute, yes it does, OSHA says '1910.213(a)(12)
For all circular saws where conditions are such that there is a possibility of contact with the portion of the saw either beneath or behind the table, that portion of the saw shall be covered with an exhaust hood, or, if no exhaust system is required, with a guard that shall be so arranged as to prevent accidental contact with the saw.
Using safe practises in any working envrioment, especially ones with potentiely dangerous machines in it seems sensible to me, and God forbid there's a time you're picking your fingers from one hand off the floor with the fingers on your other hand don't come crying to me.
'
Not criticize your skill, but I do wonder why use plywood when a cabinet made out of Cherry or another hardwood would be more elegant and better for own personal use 🤔
Why use an expensive and beautiful hardwood for shop cabinets holding Systainers?
@@danielakerman8241 because I don't do cheap shit or half ass stuff. You want business why don't you demonstrate your skills with high quality materials?
Making stuff with hard wood doesn’t show more skill… so what is the use to do that? Furthermore the audience is not likely to use very expensive wood for this project. So what is the use to use hard wood?
@@erwin757 first of all it does. Because working with different types of hardwood you learn how easily each material can be to work with. 2nd thing, you are limiting your skill level and knowledge Because you choose to work with cheap materials. You must like buying made in China stuff, because most Americans that take pride in their work use only the best materials.
@@joshduehr2898 while you are drawing the American citizen card, you make an very shallow assumption that other nations citizens have no pride in the stuff that they are making. Also the greatest nation of the world stuff is getting old and bored, especially when I can walk in my hospital in my town and get care while not going bankrupt. I am also very proud of my country that doesn’t put up with a former president that is indicted for xx counts.
That said ontopic: he is not making a furniture piece for the living room but a cabinet in his workshop…
Hey man, what blade are you using in the kapex? I just got one and have the factory blade
It’s a Tenryu blade
@@bentswoodworking got a link to it?