Sedge is the man. I never get out my #|Letter punches and now I have one of the cooler reasons to. People are gonna start to think I know something around here 😅
Hi Sedge....yet another interesting and informative video that has helped to brighten up up a cold, wet and windy afternoon over here in dreary old England. I have found that the Festool Granat abrasive is highly resistant to gumming up with glue residues, but when it does, it tends to clump in one or two big lumps. You can usually flick these off with a sharp awl, run the sander pad over the sole of an old rubber gym shoe to clean off the residue and so double or treble the life of your abrasives.
Hi Sedge, great presentation. Though slower, I'd stick with the scotch brite pad for the oil application and save the cloth for buffing the oil. Otherwise when applying oil, cotton cloths may leave lint in the grain.
I’m using osmo oil, also use a cloth and then wipe it off with a clean one. I see that this brand is available in our country, will give it a try next time. Especially for outside project I’ll atleast add 3 layers, but I guess that’s a different game then inside jobs, I’ve experimented with it and the workpiece really lives longer with multiple layers with outside conditions.
This is the first video of yours I’ve seen, will not be the last! Do you also like the RTS 400 for fine sanding? …. Your background suggests that you may have 9 of them 😎
Hey there Sedge! Great videos! I have 2 questions - 1- why that sander versus an ETS 125/150? 2- have you used mineral spirits before Rubio versus their cleaner?
When I was younger, we were taught to use a small metal working chisel and lightly tap reference marks using Roman numerals. Every number up to 90 could be made with straight lines. We would have loved to use number punches.
Also, I like to use a second coat of Rubio after 24 hrs, which gives a satin sheen, especially on tabletops. I use a maroon scotch brite pad in between coats, then re-apply. Learned this from Cam at Blacktail Studio. Otherwise it just looks too matte to me.
Really wish these hard wax oil companies would sell their product in a pump system, like epoxy companies do. So you can get an accurate measurement into any container, and be able to use up all the product before it goes bad. The can doesn't seal well enough.
I’ve tried so many hard wax oils (Rubio, Osmo, fiddes, odies, anarchist daughter) and my goto now is Osmo Raw Matte on light woods (maple, birch) and Osmo Satin on medium to dark woods (cherry, walnut). For white soap finish look I also use Osmo white wood wax. Their stains are great. Still can’t figure out the love for Rubio every time I use it the finish is super underwhelming
I will note that Osmo and fiddes can be applied the same as Rubio but you can also use a thin microfiber roller and that make application on cabinets and floors sooooooo fast
Those turned out beautiful!!
Thank you! Cheers!
Walker Texas Ranger always loves the finishing videos. I’ve been waiting for this one.
Thanks!
Sedge is the man. I never get out my #|Letter punches and now I have one of the cooler reasons to. People are gonna start to think I know something around here 😅
wicked cool !!!
@ + wicked shahp!
Another great video keep em coming sedge ❤
Thanks!!!
Hi Sedge....yet another interesting and informative video that has helped to brighten up up a cold, wet and windy afternoon over here in dreary old England.
I have found that the Festool Granat abrasive is highly resistant to gumming up with glue residues, but when it does, it tends to clump in one or two big lumps. You can usually flick these off with a sharp awl, run the sander pad over the sole of an old rubber gym shoe to clean off the residue and so double or treble the life of your abrasives.
Great to hear!
Looking great!
Thanks!
Love it!
Thanks!!
I’m happy to see you using Rubio. I don’t support the other hard wax oil finishes. Stick with Rubio
Thanks for the support!
Hey sedge, if you could only have one sander for veneers. What would you use?
I know this is 2 recommendations...DTS400 for small veneered areas and ETS EC 150/3 for large veneered panels...hope this helps
Hi Sedge, great presentation. Though slower, I'd stick with the scotch brite pad for the oil application and save the cloth for buffing the oil. Otherwise when applying oil, cotton cloths may leave lint in the grain.
Ok, got it!
I’m using osmo oil, also use a cloth and then wipe it off with a clean one. I see that this brand is available in our country, will give it a try next time. Especially for outside project I’ll atleast add 3 layers, but I guess that’s a different game then inside jobs, I’ve experimented with it and the workpiece really lives longer with multiple layers with outside conditions.
OK
This is the first video of yours I’ve seen, will not be the last!
Do you also like the RTS 400 for fine sanding? …. Your background suggests that you may have 9 of them 😎
I like the DTS400 for fine sanding.....
Will you hit the drawer box interiors with oil too? Or just the faces? Looking forward to the rest of this build ! Great work
Nope ..leaving them raw...going to do a lot of Kaizen foam
Was the product used for a clear finish? No coloring agents in the oil?
yes ..clear
Hey there Sedge! Great videos! I have 2 questions -
1- why that sander versus an ETS 125/150?
2- have you used mineral spirits before Rubio versus their cleaner?
ETS150 all the way....much more surface area...you will get your sanding done quicker
i have not tried mineral spirits...
When I was younger, we were taught to use a small metal working chisel and lightly tap reference marks using Roman numerals. Every number up to 90 could be made with straight lines. We would have loved to use number punches.
wicked cool !!!
Also, I like to use a second coat of Rubio after 24 hrs, which gives a satin sheen, especially on tabletops. I use a maroon scotch brite pad in between coats, then re-apply. Learned this from Cam at Blacktail Studio. Otherwise it just looks too matte to me.
Thanks for the tip!
Is that a Festool hammer used to whack the letter/punch's?
nope..old cobbler's hammer
How is that ETSC 2 150 sander? Or the SYS-AIR?
HUH ???
Things you can’t talk about yet
Did you sand beyond 180 grit? 220?
I stop at 180
Good morning Sedge! I've really enjoyed and learned a lot from watching you! Thank you!!
Glad I could help!
Punches??? Never thought of that. I just used a layout diagram to keep track of the faces.
cool
Sand paper is a pricey commodity, try using an abrasive clean stick to restore the pad to working order
ok
Festool paper when used with extraction seems to get the best life, also 3M cubitron.
Really wish these hard wax oil companies would sell their product in a pump system, like epoxy companies do. So you can get an accurate measurement into any container, and be able to use up all the product before it goes bad. The can doesn't seal well enough.
Yeah, that would be a great idea.
I’ve tried so many hard wax oils (Rubio, Osmo, fiddes, odies, anarchist daughter) and my goto now is Osmo Raw Matte on light woods (maple, birch) and Osmo Satin on medium to dark woods (cherry, walnut).
For white soap finish look I also use Osmo white wood wax. Their stains are great.
Still can’t figure out the love for Rubio every time I use it the finish is super underwhelming
I will note that Osmo and fiddes can be applied the same as Rubio but you can also use a thin microfiber roller and that make application on cabinets and floors sooooooo fast
ok ..thanks
ok
Rubio says not to go that high in grits
ok
They say 120, but 180 isn’t a problematic grit and you know it. Over 220 is a problem
Use mineral spirits rubio cleaner is a waste of money
ok ????????????????????????????????????????????????????
@@sedgetool I've been doing the same thing. Seems like it works just as well.
Test
123
@ Totally get it, we all have to pay the bills. Be well.