Looks good I did 3 mauser with the bedrock kit and my boyds laminate stocks. One thing I think help is to ruff up the channel so the being agent adheres to the surface. You do not have to get wild just scuff it up. Also he did this 100% correct with taping all of the stock surface off. My 1st time doing this like 19 years ago, I spent hours with a light sandpaper cleaning up my stock. Basically a made a little mess here and their. On the mag box , what I found on that helps, you can tap off that area and fill with foram or wad of paper if you do not want bedding expoy dripping into that area. My 2nd bedding job, I couldn't get the mauser metal magazine box back until i sanded and dremel the opening back up.
Yes, I use more epoxy than most but I preference I thicker layer as I know it will be more robust in the long term. I agree that the rear tang is not essential but I also prefer full length bedding… it just feels right. Thanks for your feedback
I have done probably a hundred. Just a couple tips. Way to much epoxy than you needed but better than not enough. Remingtons do not need rear tang bedded. Waste of effort but you did a good job. I usually just pillar the rear screw and bed the recoil lug and chamber section on Remingtons. I have tested accuracy and noticed zero difference with and without bedding the rear. Pillars if done correctly keep you from over torquing rear screw. When cleaning up excess after you used bungy cords, wait about 2-3 hours when epoxy just starts to set it is super easy to clean up. I use a popsicle stick and and a sharpened one to get in the crevasses. Won't smear and it just rolls up no mess. Super important to not squeeze it to tight into stock and i use surgical tubing but bungy cords work too. Overall not a bad job at all.
Did it in 1983 to a 700 ADL in .25-06 and went from 1.5” to 7/8” groups. Bushnells AcraGlass kit. Also stripped shiny stock and rubbed Formbys tungsten oil, for no gloss hunting rifle!
Nicely done, looked perfect. Scary bit using the dremel to remove metal. I wish you would have shown more of that part. I would be so unsure as to how much to remove? Anything you would do differently besides tape around recoil lug?
Yes, it is a bit scary the first time. I’ve done a few rifles now and every time there’s something that you learn. My main advice to anyone would be to take your time, do your research and be brave. As far as how much material should you remove, I think it would be difficult to remove too much but you could easily remove to little. If your using a good compound, it’s better have it thicker than to thin (depending on the stock in question).
What's your method or chemical used to get all of the modeling clay out? Cleaning that up afterwards is always the most time consuming and horrible part of the process for me.
@@KSpee01 I’ve only ever used the terminal ballistics kit and I’ve never had any trouble cleaning up. Not sure what clay he uses but it’s good stuff to work with. www.ballisticstudies.com/shop/MatchGrade+Bedding+Products/MatchGrade+Rifle+Bedding+Compound.html
I’ll try put a short video together on the results after I settle on a load. I’ve been working on a few recipes but have yet to settle on the winning formula. Currently using 7mm ELD-X 162gn with 69gn of AR2217 @ just over 3000fps. Grouping at just on 1” @100yrd. Ideally I’m after a half inch group so I might try some other options
![งมหอย จับปลา มือเปล่า หาอยู่หากินแบบวีถีอีสานกับแก๊งเซียนหรั่ง ม่วนคัก! [ขอนแก่น] @Sianstudio](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JEJZg6N-AbU/mqdefault.jpg)
Looks good I did 3 mauser with the bedrock kit and my boyds laminate stocks. One thing I think help is to ruff up the channel so the being agent adheres to the surface. You do not have to get wild just scuff it up.
Also he did this 100% correct with taping all of the stock surface off. My 1st time doing this like 19 years ago, I spent hours with a light sandpaper cleaning up my stock. Basically a made a little mess here and their.
On the mag box , what I found on that helps, you can tap off that area and fill with foram or wad of paper if you do not want bedding expoy dripping into that area. My 2nd bedding job, I couldn't get the mauser metal magazine box back until i sanded and dremel the opening back up.
Yes, I use more epoxy than most but I preference I thicker layer as I know it will be more robust in the long term. I agree that the rear tang is not essential but I also prefer full length bedding… it just feels right. Thanks for your feedback
I have done probably a hundred. Just a couple tips. Way to much epoxy than you needed but better than not enough. Remingtons do not need rear tang bedded. Waste of effort but you did a good job. I usually just pillar the rear screw and bed the recoil lug and chamber section on Remingtons. I have tested accuracy and noticed zero difference with and without bedding the rear. Pillars if done correctly keep you from over torquing rear screw. When cleaning up excess after you used bungy cords, wait about 2-3 hours when epoxy just starts to set it is super easy to clean up. I use a popsicle stick and and a sharpened one to get in the crevasses. Won't smear and it just rolls up no mess. Super important to not squeeze it to tight into stock and i use surgical tubing but bungy cords work too. Overall not a bad job at all.
Nice job mate.
Did it in 1983 to a 700 ADL in .25-06 and went from 1.5” to 7/8” groups. Bushnells AcraGlass kit. Also stripped shiny stock and rubbed Formbys tungsten oil, for no gloss hunting rifle!
Spell check, Tung Oil
And you bought the acraglass from Brownells...
@@user-yx2cb9yo9u talk and text is certainly not an exact science 🧐😅
Nicely done, looked perfect. Scary bit using the dremel to remove metal. I wish you would have shown more of that part. I would be so unsure as to how much to remove? Anything you would do differently besides tape around recoil lug?
Yes, it is a bit scary the first time. I’ve done a few rifles now and every time there’s something that you learn. My main advice to anyone would be to take your time, do your research and be brave. As far as how much material should you remove, I think it would be difficult to remove too much but you could easily remove to little. If your using a good compound, it’s better have it thicker than to thin (depending on the stock in question).
What's your method or chemical used to get all of the modeling clay out? Cleaning that up afterwards is always the most time consuming and horrible part of the process for me.
@@KSpee01 I’ve only ever used the terminal ballistics kit and I’ve never had any trouble cleaning up. Not sure what clay he uses but it’s good stuff to work with.
www.ballisticstudies.com/shop/MatchGrade+Bedding+Products/MatchGrade+Rifle+Bedding+Compound.html
@@PhilNeedham I love his information. I have never used his products though!
Very good
Thanks
Please do accuracy test
I’ll try put a short video together on the results after I settle on a load. I’ve been working on a few recipes but have yet to settle on the winning formula. Currently using 7mm ELD-X 162gn with 69gn of AR2217 @ just over 3000fps. Grouping at just on 1” @100yrd. Ideally I’m after a half inch group so I might try some other options