Not bad for your first try but that is a bolt release lever not a safety selector. You should use the grey marinated next time it has metal powder in it and adds strength and also looks better than white. If you are going to use weight add die to it ahead of time. The biggest mistake though is at the end of the video when you pick up one of the pillars and say you need to clean them up before you reassemble, the millers are supposed to be epoxied in the stock first or at least when you are bedding it, thats the whole point. thats why you had wear/rub marks on your action. Plus clear shoe polish works a lot better than colored, it gives a better finish but Johnsons works the best. and its best to put on the polish, let sit for a bit and then lightly buff off, its not good to have it too thick, it leaves voids and not as nice of a finish like on the tang area of yours. Its a learning curve thats all.
My opinion: I don't think it's necessary to disassemble anything or tape things off. No need for wax, shoe polish, dirty mess, wax will be horrid to remove. Just apply a liberal amount of oil to all metal and the divots in the pin ends fill with grease. I've never had trouble. Use jb weld....scuff and clean the receiver housing first....no need to tape the stock, oil it too and to clean up use solvent it wipes off clean. Simple, easy, faster, reliable.....it forms a full cast around the receiver. Sometimes needs repeating if there is not enough jb to fill. Has never failed me, ive done eight projects, the result is a perfect fit... firm on my opinion....hope this is of value.
I would and have hogged out some of the recoil lug recess area so there is a good bit of bedding compound behind the recoil lug and get a precise fit at the rear. Yes to tape on bottom sides and front of recoil lug. Even remove stock material under the front and rear of action so it is full bedding compound contact.
One thing you forgot to do is add tape(I use brownells bedding tape, 2") to the barrel to ensure that your barrel floats freely when you reassemble your action to stock.
@Hewhoremains420just at the forend tip of stock. Wrap enough to create an even gap. Make sure action area is relieved enough to prevent undo influence.
When you add tape to the sides and rear it allows it a bit of wiggle room to remove. The front of the recoil lug you don't wanna add tape. When the gun recoils it's pushes back and the front of recoil has a perfect fit after the bedding and no where's to move. A lot of people do it different ways. Some do just the sides, others do 3 sides. I don't think there is any right or wrong way as long as there is no tape on the front of the recoil and that is snug to the stock that way the action has no where's to go
Great video good to see someone go full length on their bedding job! Although I wouldn't have painted over my newly acquired action mirroring bedding with an uneven mushy nail polish... am I correct in thinking you taped the rear and sides of your recoil lug? I recall doing the front and sides of mine as the action wants to recoil rearward and has a solid glass bedded surface behind it to prevent it moving
I have seen people tape the recoil lug, but why? If you put the release agent on correctly, I use the real thing, it releases and it's a much tighter fit. Not a lot of sense putting tape on it to make the fit less than tight. The only flaw with using bedding that is not made specifically for bedding is air bubbles. Bedding made for the job is in packs that you can mix your bedding in the pack before it even hits the air. It doesn't cost that much more to buy the right products to do the job right. Been there and done that on several rifles.
I was reading the comments someone made note of the White Marine Tex and the gray Marine Tex I myself have used Marine Tex for over 30 years and in multiple repairs in the automotive industry and bedding rifles the gray is far superior for it has metal powder or I should say finely ground aluminum in it that's why it's gray and has a higher heat resistance which hopefully won't be too much of a factor in a bolt action rifle the white is strong and mostly used in Marine industry for repairing fiberglass hence the name MARINE tex. by no means am I a professional gunsmith but all you really need to bed is the rear Tang and The Recoil lug and about an inch in front of lug it makes cleanup the hell of a lot easier and I myself I've only found this out from years of experience and a few blunders of my own you may also find after you've run a couple of boxes of shells through it the white May crack all in all not bad for your first ever bedding job
No. Doing so may twist or pull one end further in/down. Old inner tube cut into 1/2 - 1 inch strips and wrapped snuggly on front and rear of action will give a stress free bedding.
I have a 270, had the original stock I can get like 4in groups at 100 never was happy I bought a boyds stock i get 1/2 groups now. But I wanna bed the old stock to see if itll fix it because its not as heavy
Great video. What issues if any are there removing the modeling clay from all the gaps? Just scrap them out & use the pins to push it out when reinstalling the trigger?
caloebs Use fresh modeling clay. If tried to use older stuff and it doesn't hold together well when you remove. New stuff stays together. I used a toothpick and my pocket knife. It came out easy
Excellent Video and instruction. I have been doing this to every new rifle in my safe. I use JB Marine to bed my recoil lug. I'm just curious about your bottom plate and DBM. Is that a Legacy aftermarket retrofit? Thanks
Nice video , im curious to know, how this bedding project worked out for you? Did it improve the accuracy and groupings? Im not new to dealing with firearms but looking seriously into getting into long range shooting .
txsharpshooter85 ya the small bottle. I think it was $15.99 or $19.99. I had a lot left over but I mixed the whole thing so I couldn't reuse it. I would buy small and mix the whole thing, you don't wanna have to mix more after you applied. I tried other stuff but this It's really easy to use and it's thick so you don't have to worry as much with cleanup and it's easy to sand
I have bedded recoil lugs before, but doing the whole action makes me nervous. Particularly the action screws. I don't see how you keep the bedding compound from sealing the screws in the threads, even with release agent.
txsharpshooter85 I was the same way. I was biting my nails doing it but that marine Tex made it easy. I loaded everything with shoe polish, especially the screws. There isn't enough compound to fall into the holes themselves. I let it sit for about an hour and then back the screws out a hair and then tightened them back up. When I cleaned up there wasn't any compound even near the screws. I got some in a magwell and trigger gaurd but a Drexel made the cleanup easy.
Thanks for the video, looks like you did a good job. I am shooting a 700 in 243 as well. It has a Rock Creek Sendero contour 8 twist barrel. Currently in a Bell and Carlson M40, been thinking about bedding...might get enough balls to do it one day. What load are you shooting in your 243?
txsharpshooter85 I bed the recoil lug area awhile back and I got a rocking motion like there was a high spot near the recoil lug, so I decided to bed the whole thing. I don't have the rocking or teetering motion I had anymore. I was shooting 105 amax and it shot great. I would shoot 10 groups an all 10 were under 3/4". When I went to order more bullets they didn't have any so I went with hornady 105 bthp. I took it to range and I couldn't hit a 12" pie plate. It was every where's. I checked all action screws, swapped 3-4 scopes and rings, nothing. I did load workup for 75,87,100sierra and 105. I got the best groups from 100 Sierra and that was around 2". Not impressed. I bed the action and it's more consistent with all ammo but still no better than 2". I took it to smith to check the throat and rifling and he said it's fine. We are gonna recrown this week and if that doesn't work I'm gonna order a Mcree pre fit barrel with a nut, then I can change my own. We have no gunsmiths that work with metal in my area so I have to send out of state and wait 6 months....sucks. Weird how the accuracy just disappreared
You really should torque your bolts to spec. Yes, that'll squeeze out a lot of compound. But everything that gets squeezed out is unnecessary. You're just adding too much material otherwise.
How many rounds have been through the rifle? 243 is quite the barrel burner. I don't shoot mine much but I hear 1000 rounds or even less may be the life of a 243 barrel. I've even heard flyers starting at 800 rounds and got much worse from there and that was in a Shilen SS match barrel which is much heavier than standard sporter style barrels.
@@carolinausedmachinery Unlike you, I do understand overbore, which is why I have enough brains to know a 243 is not a overbore barrel burner, in fact it is considered about ideal for the caliber , you might want to read a few books by PO. Ackley , he is an expert on the subject .
There could have been better prep work. Always tape up the insides of the magazine walls with tape to avoid over spill and quick clean up. But good job
The "gun experts" claim that's a "vent hole". I guess that escaping gas is going to blow right through the RH bolt lug when that case blows so it can get out that hole. Because that hold is covered and plugged when the bolt and lugs are in battery. That hole is there so smart 700 owners can put a drop of oil or two in a long-idle and "dry" rifle before cracking the bolt open for the first time in weeks or months. Otherwise there's a good chance that lug and recess are dry as a bone. Remington 700s have the famous "THREE RINGS OF STEEL" to PREVENT CASE HEAD SEPARATIONS PERIOD. The THREE RINGS are the BARREL, the RECEIVER and the "BAND" AROUND THE BOLT HEAD AND FACE YOU'LL NOTICE IS COMPLETELY UN-INTERRUPTED. CASES BLOW WITH SUCH VIOLENCE AND FORCE WHEN THEY'RE ALLOWED TO THAT YOU DON'T HAVE A CHANCE IN HELL OF "VENTING" A HIGH-POWERED RIFLE CASE BLAST OUT THE BACK END WITHOUT SHATTERING THE STOCK AND OR BLOWING THE BOLT RIGHT OUT OF THE RIFLE, SPLITTING THE RECEIVER ETC. Hell a "low-pressure" .45 ACP case that's "hot" or "compromised" and blows the case can and will blow the magazine completely out of a 1911 OR blow all the remaining cartridges, follower, spring and floor plate out of the magazine or TRY LIKE HELL and will blast every bit of the oil out of the pistol and will slam the slide back so violently and quickly the recoil spring will instantly "fail" and be flimsy and weak as if it had a million rounds on it since new and all that shit happens in less than the blink of an eye. But the pistol will stay together because its "only" an "overpressure" round in a cartridge that "only" maxes out at about 21,000 psi. And you're talking about 500 lb.-ft. of muzzle energy max with a "hot" .45 ACP load. You really think a wooden stock and "bottom metal" in a BDL (If you don't know what a Remington 700 "BDL" and "ADL" are, don't think you're going to be "gunsmithing" any time soon for anybody that's serious about his rifles and Remingtons) is going to "contain" somewhere north of 70,000 psi which is where U.S. "high-powerd rifles" are generally "proofed" to and probably closer to 100,000 psi if the case "vaporizes" if even one tenth of the gas gets out the back end, you're dreaming. Remington knew that and they used and still use those "THREE RINGS OF STEEL" to contain or at least "divert" and/or "slow down" that blast JUST LONG ENOUGH FOR THE OVERWHELMING MAJORITY OF THE GAS, PRESSURE AND ENERGY TO GO OUT THE "FRONT DOOR". In a 700 the bolt "engages that "recess" in the back of the barrel. There is ZERO exposed case PERIOD when a properly built 700 some "gunsmith" hasn't BUTCHERED fucking around and fucking up the bolt and and "opening up" the bolt head and especially putting in an "M16" or "Sako" extractor and ABSOLUTELY HASN'T TOUCHED THE DAMN LOCKING LUGS AND RECESSES TRYING TO "TRUE" THE "ACTION". Do ANY or ALL of those things and go BEAT THE HELL OUT OF YOUR 700 WITH HOT AMMO IN YOUR "PRECISION RIFLE" THAT WENT TO THE GUNSMITH "TIGHT AND SOLID" AND CAME HOME "LOOSE AND SLOPPY" AND YOU ARE ALMOST GUARANTEED TO FIND OUT THAT AIN'T NO VENT HOLE IF YOU'RE "STUCK ON STUPID" JACKING ROUNDS THAT ARE "SAFE" BECAUSE THERE'S NO "PRESSURE SIGNS" OR "NOT MANY" AND YOU'RE SHOOTING STUPIDLY "LONG" CARTRIDGES WAY, WAY OVER THE MAX COL FOR THAT CARTRIDGE THROUGH THE RIFLE AND HAVE TO "SINGLE-LOAD" A FREAKING REPEATING RIFLE. ANY "GUNSMITH" WHO THINKS HE CAN "BUILD' A 700 BETTER THAN REMINGTON AND CAN "FIX" WHAT REMINGTON SUPPOSEDLY "DID WRONG" BUILDING ITS OWN RIFLE TO ITS OWN SPECS IS EITHER INCREDIBLY STUPID OR INCREDIBLY COCKY ABOUT HIS "SKILLS" BUT MOST LIKE IS INCREDIBLY "BOTH". IF YOU TOUCH A REMINGTON RECEIVER OR BOLT WITH A "CUTTER", I GUARANTEE YOU JUST PUT A "SALVAGE TITLE" ON YOUR 700 AS FAR AS IT EVER HAVING ANY "RESALE" OR "TRADE" VALUE TO ANYBODY BUT ANOTHER IDIOT WHO THINKS "LOOSE" AND "SLOPPY" BOLTS ARE "NECESSARY" FOR A "PRECISION RIFLE". NOBODY ELSE WILL TOUCH A "TRUED" REMINGTON "ACTION" WITH A TEN FOOT POLE. YOU IMMEDIATELY "RUIN" THE ENTIRE ACTION. "TOUCH" THE LUGS, RECESSES OR FRONT FACE WITH A "CUTTER" TO TRUE THEM AND YOU JUST PUT A BUNCH OF EXTRA "HEADSPACE" IN THAT RIFLE OR TOOK A BUNCH "OUT" YOU CAN'T "GET RID OF" OR "PUT BACK" WITHOUT CUTTING A BUNCH MORE STEEL OFF A BUNCH MORE PARTS. AND THEN YOU'LL HAVE TO "RELOCATE" THE FREAKING BOLT-HANDLE ON THAT "THREE-PIECE"" BOLT BODY TO TRY TO 'GET BACK" PRIMARY EXTRACTION AND "LOCKUP". I SAID "THREE-PIECE" BOLT BECAUSE IT IS THREE SEPARATE PIECES. THE HANDLE, THE "MAIN" SECTION OF THE BODY THAT GOES FROM ABOUT HALF AN INCH BEHIND THE LUGS TO THE REAR OF THE BOLT AND THEN THE "HEAD" WHICH IS 'WELDED" TO THE REAR SECTION. AND YES.. IT IS "SHAPED LIKE A BANANA". ON PURPOSE. WHY? BECAUSE SOME PEOPLE AT REMINGTON KNEW HOW TO BUILD THE "BEST" DAMNED BOLT-ACTION SPORTING RIFLE IN HISTORY AND THE ONE THAT EARNED THAT TITLE BY "BEATING" WINCHESTER AND THE MODEL 70 AT THEIR OWN GAME. IN 1964 WINCHESTER HAD TO "RUIN" THE MODEL 70 BY MAKING EXTENSIVE "PRODUCTION CHANGES" THAT TOOK "THE RIFLEMAN'S RIFLE" WITH A RECEIVER THAT STARTED AS A 7+ BILLET OF STEEL AND 70+ MACHINING OPERATIONS LATER WAS A MODEL 70 RECEIVER FULLY MACHINED AND MACHINED SO WELL THAT IF YOU "GUT" A PRE-'64 MODEL 70 YOU WON'T FIND MACHINE MARK OR SHARP EDGE OF UNFINISHED/UNPOLISHED SURFACE ONE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE OF THAT RECEIVER. THEY LOOK LIKE THEY'RE "INVESTMENT CAST". SINCE 1964 THEY DON'T LOOK LIKE THAT ANY MORE. THEY'RE "CHEAP" AND "UNFINISHED" AND "CLUNKY" AND THEY STILL HAVE THE MAUSER -STYLE "CLAW EXTRACTOR" BUT THEY HAVEN'T HAD "CONTROLLED ROUND FEED" SINCE '64. WHAT IS "CONTROLLED ROUND FEED"? WHEN YOU PUSH THE BOLT FORWARD TO CHAMBER A CARTRIDGE THE TOP CARTRIDGE "JUMPS" UP IN FRONT OF AN "INTO" THE BOLT FACE AND "STICKS ITS RIM" BEHIND THE EXTRACTOR "HOOK". THE CARTRIDGE IS LITERALLY "STUCK" ON THE FRONT OF THE BOLT UNTIL ITS CHAMBERED, EXTRACTED (FIRED OR NOT) AND EJECTED BY PULLING THE BOLT CLEAR BACK. IT TAKES A LITTLE EFFORT AND TUNING AND "HAND-FITTING" AND DIFFERENT MAGAZINE "GUTS" FOR EVERY CARTRIDGE YOU CHAMBER THE RIFLE FOR. NO "ONE SIZE FITS ALL" THING LIKE YOU CAN GET AWAY WITH WHEN YOU HAVE "PUSH FEED" AT LONG AS YOU HAVE A "UNIVERSAL" FOLLOWER AND A "BLIND MAGAZINE" LIKE A 700 ADL. BRING A BOX MAGAZINE OR "BOTTOM METAL" INTO THE PICTURE AND YOU PRETTY MUCH HAVE TO GO BACK TO MAKING A DIFFERENT FOLLOWER AND POSSIBLY A DIFFERENT "BOX" FOR EACH AND EVERY CARTRIDGE. AND THAT'S HOW REMINGTON "DESTROYED' WINCHESTER. WINCHESTER HASN'T INTRODUCED A BRAND-NEW BOLT-ACTION RIFLE SINCE THE MODEL 70 CAME OUT IN THE 1920S. BECAUSE REMINGTON HAS COME OUT WITH A PILE OF NEW RIFLES AND STARTED EMBARRASSING WINCHESTER AND PRETTY MUCH THE REST OF THE WORLD IN 1906 WHEN REMINGTON AND A FAIRLY DECENT "GUN DESIGNER" BY THE NAME OF JOHN MOSES BROWNING UNLEASHED UPON THE WORLD THE FIRST SEMI-AUTOMATIC, VERTICAL BOX MAGAZINE "SPORTING RIFLE" AND "RIFLE PERIOD" IN THE HISTORY OF THE WORLD. FROM 1906 THROUGH 1907 IT WAS THE "REMINGTON AUTLOADING RIFLE". IN 1908 IT BECAME THE "MODEL 8". IN 1911 FN STARTED BUILDING/SELLING THEM AS THE "1900". IN 1936 WHEN .300 SAVAGE WAS ADDED TO .25/.30/.32 AND .35 REMINGTON - THE FIRST BRAND-NEW SMOKELESS, RIMLESS "COMMERCIAL" SPORTING RIFLE CARTRIDGES IN THE WORLD THAT DIDN'T START AS "MILITARY" CARTRIDGES, IT BECAME THE MODEL 81 "WOODSMASTER". FROM THAT POINT ON, WINCHESTER WAS PRETTY MUCH HOSED. REMINGTON WAS STILL REMINGTON - THE COMPANY STARTED BY A "COMPETITION SHOOTER" WHO WAS AN "AMATEUR GUNSMITH" BUT DIDN'T HAVE THE ABILITY TO RIFLE HIS OWN BARRELS AND WHEN HE PAID AN "EXPERT" TO RIFLE A BARREL FOR HIS NEW "BUILD" AND IT ENDED UP BEING SHIT IN HIS OPINION DESPITE EVERY OTHER LOCAL "COMPETITION SHOOTER" USING THAT "EXPERTS" PARTS, RIFLES, SERVICES, HE DID WHAT JOHN BROWNING DID AND SAID WHAT JOHN BROWNING SAID AT 10 YEARS OLD: "I CAN MAKE ONE BETTER THAN THAT!" AND LIKE JOHN BROWNING, ELIPHALET REMINGTON PUT HIS"GUN MAKING" TALENTS INTO "MACHINE TOOL MAKING", BUILT HIS OWN RIFLING MACHINE, RIFLED HIS FIRST BARREL WITH IT AND PUT HIS FIRST BARREL IN HIS FIRST "HOMEMADE" 100% ALL HIS WORK RIFLE AND AT THE NEXT "COMPETITION" - A TURKEY SHOOT - LAID WASTE TO THE FIELD. HE DIDN'T GET MUCH MORE OPPORTUNITY TO COMPETE AFTER THAT. HE WAS TOO BUSY BUILDING AND RIFLING BARRELS AND REBARRELING "BRAND X" RIFLES AND BUILDING NEW RIFLES FOR THE GUYS STUCK WITH SHIT THAT WASN'T WORTH "FIXING". THERE'S A HELL OF A LOT OF "GUNSMITHS" OUT THERE THAT CLAIM 700S AREN'T WORTH A SHIT UNTIL THEY MAGICALLY "FIX" THEM WITH THEIR WORN-OUT SCRAPYARD-REJECT LATHES AND THEIR "GOING OUT OF BUSINESS TOOL AUCTION" WORN-OUT PRECISION "MEASURING TOOLS" THEY DON'T EVEN KNOW HOW TO USE PROPERLY WHEN THEY DO MANAGE TO USE THEM FOR THE RIGHT TASKS. FYI - YOU DON'T "MEASURE" DIMENSIONS WITH A DIAL INDICATOR AND ANYBODY WHO IS "BUILDING" SO-CALLED "PRECISON" RIFLES BY "FIXING" WHAT REMINGTON "GOT WRONG" AND YOU NEVER HEAR A SPECIFICATION OR TOLERANCE OR DIMENSION OUT OF HIS MOUTH THAT DOESN'T INCLUDE "ABOUT" OR "MAYBE" OR "AROUND" OR "A FEW" OR "A COUPLE" AND HE'S TOO DAMNED LAZY TO SAY "THOUSANDTHS" INSTEAD OF "THOU", THERE'S YET ANOTHER SIGN YOU'D BETTER EITHER RUN THE OTHER WAY BEFORE YOU HAND HIM EVEN A DAISY BB GUN TO FIX IF HE DOESN'T ALREADY HAVE ONE OR MORE OF YOUR "BABIES" AND IF HE DOES, YOU'D BETTER GET IT THE HELL BACK BEFORE HE PUTS PART ONE IN THE LATHE TO "INDICATE IT IN" BECAUSE IF A CUTTER TOUCHES YOUR 700 PERIOD, YOU MAY AS WELL CALL REMINGTON, BUY ONE OF THEIR BRAND-NEW "STRIPPED" 700 "ACTIONS", DELIVER IT TO "SUPER SMITH" AND TELL HIM TO "BUILD" YOUR RIFLE RIGHT BACK TO WHAT IT WAS WHEN YOU BROUGHT IT IN ON THAT NEW RECEIVER AND THAT IF HE EVEN MENTIONS "TRUING" ANYTHING, HE'LL BE TRYING TO "INDICATE IN" THAT OLD ACTION HE JUST RUINED WITH IT HANGING OUT OF HIS ASS WHICH MIGHT MAKE IT A "CHALLENGE" TO "DIAL IN". SERIOUSLY. GOOD GUNSMITHS DO NOT "FIX" RIFLES THAT "DON'T SHOOT" UNTIL THEY'VE MADE SURE ITS NOT THE OWNER THAT "DON'T SHOOT" FIRST.
FYI .243 is a well-known BARREL BURNER. Go out and shoot a bunch of rounds through them in a hell of a hurry doing the "long-range" thing and you can and will "burn up" a barrel faster than damned near any other "common" and "popular" American high-powered rifle cartridge. See those shoulders? Not NEARLY enough "angle" and .243 just FLOODS the throat with high volumes of high-pressure and high-temp gas. When a rifle just "goes away" in a hell of a hurry, its either the "optic" or the owner beat the dogshit out of it with hot and high-volume shooting, got it hot and hot repeatedly and it doesn't make a damn bit of difference if it "only" has 500 rounds or "only" 1500. There are no hard and fast rules for when a barrel "wears out". And if you notice its STARTING to lose accuracy/precision and in an attempt to "figure out" what the problem is and keep shooting the hell out of as often as possible trying to get your "baby" back, you'll take the barrel the rest of the way out in as few as tens or scores of rounds whereas a SMART and EXPERIENCE "old-timer" who knows the signs of impending barrel "failure" ARE groups "opening up" and how DOESN'T SHOOT HIS RIFLES WITH MAXED OUT AMMO OR ANYWHERE NEAR IT SO HE HAS PLENTY OF "SAFETY FACTOR" AND GETS MAX BARREL AND RIFLE LIFE will have the OPPORTUNITY TO "BUMP UP" HIS LOADS TO GET THE LOST PRESSURE/VELOCITY BACK AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE AND HE WON'T WASTE A ROUND TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON. HE'LL LOOK AT THE "OPTIC" AND THE THROAT AND HE'LL KNOW WHAT THE DEAL IS. AT THAT POINT IF YOU'RE SHOOTING JUST ENOUGH TO STAY "ENTERTAINED" AND/OR "COMPETITIVE" AND YOU BUMP CHARGES AND MAKE DAMN SURE TO FULL-LENGTH SIZE YOUR BRASS AT EVERY RELOAD AND AND LET THE CASES "STRETCH" AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE TO KEEP THE NECKS AS LONG AS POSSIBLE TO MOVE THE "BLAST" FORWARD ON THE THROAT AS FAR AS POSSIBLE AND YOU SLOW THE HELL DOWN AND LET THE DAMNED RIFLE COOL OFF AFTER EVER FEW ROUNDS, YOU MIGHT GET HUNDREDS MORE ROUNDS BEFORE IT FINALLY LAYS DOWN FOR GOOD.
You exaggerate way too much. I have never seen 150 grain .243 bullet. To say 3,4,5 even six months is like a huge difference. You shouldn’t do that. You should narrow it down or not say that kind of stuff. Be truthful about that caliber. I’ve only seen 100 grain and that’s the biggest one I’ve ever seen. I would love to know where to get 150 grain bullet for my .243.
Not bad for your first try but that is a bolt release lever not a safety selector. You should use the grey marinated next time it has metal powder in it and adds strength and also looks better than white. If you are going to use weight add die to it ahead of time. The biggest mistake though is at the end of the video when you pick up one of the pillars and say you need to clean them up before you reassemble, the millers are supposed to be epoxied in the stock first or at least when you are bedding it, thats the whole point. thats why you had wear/rub marks on your action. Plus clear shoe polish works a lot better than colored, it gives a better finish but Johnsons works the best. and its best to put on the polish, let sit for a bit and then lightly buff off, its not good to have it too thick, it leaves voids and not as nice of a finish like on the tang area of yours. Its a learning curve thats all.
My opinion: I don't think it's necessary to disassemble anything or tape things off.
No need for wax, shoe polish, dirty mess, wax will be horrid to remove.
Just apply a liberal amount of oil to all metal and the divots in the pin ends fill with grease. I've never had trouble.
Use jb weld....scuff and clean the receiver housing first....no need to tape the stock, oil it too and to clean up use solvent it wipes off clean. Simple, easy, faster, reliable.....it forms a full cast around the receiver. Sometimes needs repeating if there is not enough jb to fill.
Has never failed me, ive done eight projects, the result is a perfect fit... firm on my opinion....hope this is of value.
Use fishing line to cut the clay instead of a razor blade.
Dental floss works too
I would and have hogged out some of the recoil lug recess area so there is a good bit of bedding compound behind the recoil lug and get a precise fit at the rear. Yes to tape on bottom sides and front of recoil lug. Even remove stock material under the front and rear of action so it is full bedding compound contact.
One thing you forgot to do is add tape(I use brownells bedding tape, 2") to the barrel to ensure that your barrel floats freely when you reassemble your action to stock.
A couple layers of painter's tape works just as well and doesn't cost $15 a roll.
@Hewhoremains420just at the forend tip of stock. Wrap enough to create an even gap. Make sure action area is relieved enough to prevent undo influence.
Use fishing line to trim your clay.
Floss works as well for anyone who doesn't fish.
I use Sno Seal leather wax for a release agent. I also use JB Weld to bed the upper action, especially the recoil lug.
Great hands on video... thanks, I'm just learning this at gunsmithing school, online. Needed to see in real life..Great video
Good job. But I still don't understand why people tape off the recoil lug. If you don't, wouldn't it have an even more snug fit?
If you don't tape the recoil at all it won't be able to seperate it from the stock. Most tape the back and sides with painters tape
When you add tape to the sides and rear it allows it a bit of wiggle room to remove. The front of the recoil lug you don't wanna add tape. When the gun recoils it's pushes back and the front of recoil has a perfect fit after the bedding and no where's to move. A lot of people do it different ways. Some do just the sides, others do 3 sides. I don't think there is any right or wrong way as long as there is no tape on the front of the recoil and that is snug to the stock that way the action has no where's to go
Thanks! Just to clarify, you said don't tape off the front, so the part you taped off is considered the rear of the recoil lug?
Great video good to see someone go full length on their bedding job! Although I wouldn't have painted over my newly acquired action mirroring bedding with an uneven mushy nail polish... am I correct in thinking you taped the rear and sides of your recoil lug? I recall doing the front and sides of mine as the action wants to recoil rearward and has a solid glass bedded surface behind it to prevent it moving
I don't tape the recoil lug. I want a tight fit in that area. Use plenty of release agent and it'll pop out.
Awesome video, thanks
I have seen people tape the recoil lug, but why? If you put the release agent on correctly, I use the real thing, it releases and it's a much tighter fit. Not a lot of sense putting tape on it to make the fit less than tight. The only flaw with using bedding that is not made specifically for bedding is air bubbles. Bedding made for the job is in packs that you can mix your bedding in the pack before it even hits the air. It doesn't cost that much more to buy the right products to do the job right. Been there and done that on several rifles.
I was reading the comments someone made note of the White Marine Tex and the gray Marine Tex I myself have used Marine Tex for over 30 years and in multiple repairs in the automotive industry and bedding rifles the gray is far superior for it has metal powder or I should say finely ground aluminum in it that's why it's gray and has a higher heat resistance which hopefully won't be too much of a factor in a bolt action rifle the white is strong and mostly used in Marine industry for repairing fiberglass hence the name MARINE tex. by no means am I a professional gunsmith but all you really need to bed is the rear Tang and The Recoil lug and about an inch in front of lug it makes cleanup the hell of a lot easier and I myself I've only found this out from years of experience and a few blunders of my own you may also find after you've run a couple of boxes of shells through it the white May crack all in all not bad for your first ever bedding job
Steal the wifes cake decorating bag to apply the bedding. Or cut the corner of a plastic bag spin it tight and squeeze.
I read somewhere to only use Marine Tex gray. White is softer.
NOTE: I just grease the recoil lug and I push the action forward as I'm tightening the mounting screws. I let my stock and action dry overnight.
Forward? I push rearward.
How are the groups now?
Did it bring the accuracy back in?
Did this fix your accuracy problem?
Great video!
Wouldn't you want to lug the screws down? I would think not tightening them, would allow the bedding to be too thick to tighten later.
No. Doing so may twist or pull one end further in/down. Old inner tube cut into 1/2 - 1 inch strips and wrapped snuggly on front and rear of action will give a stress free bedding.
Popsicle sticks work greatttt!
6-8 inch group at 100? That sounds like an optic problem. That’s nuts.
I have a 270, had the original stock I can get like 4in groups at 100 never was happy I bought a boyds stock i get 1/2 groups now. But I wanna bed the old stock to see if itll fix it because its not as heavy
Mike Finto I have Boyd’s Stocks on three different rifles. They’re my go to personally. I love their thumbhole stock particularly.
@@mikefinto4048 hi, did you bed the Boyds stock? Pillars option?
At about the 5:40 mark, I cringed at your lack of care
Great video. What issues if any are there removing the modeling clay from all the gaps? Just scrap them out & use the pins to push it out when reinstalling the trigger?
caloebs Use fresh modeling clay. If tried to use older stuff and it doesn't hold together well when you remove. New stuff stays together. I used a toothpick and my pocket knife. It came out easy
Dont you fill bolt holes
Thanks for the awesome video! Liked, what type of putty is that green/teal colored putty? what brand? Thanks again.
Excellent Video and instruction. I have been doing this to every new rifle in my safe. I use JB Marine to bed my recoil lug. I'm just curious about your bottom plate and DBM. Is that a Legacy aftermarket retrofit? Thanks
What are the odds that the wife was clutch with the OD-green nail polish? I guess she wears that for hunting? 😄
40 gr projectiles for 243? Who makes those? You shoot squirrels with 243?
good video joe. you going to be at the may 6th shoot?
Ya I will be there, are You going?
JOE MANIERY I sure am!! Just got my new scope dialed in and some new load data worked up. I posted it to the group page.
Nice video , im curious to know, how this bedding project worked out for you? Did it improve the accuracy and groupings? Im not new to dealing with firearms but looking seriously into getting into long range shooting .
I would not take any bedding off the stock.Your supporting the chamber area of your stock that's how my gunsmith beds a stock
What size Marine-Tex kit is that? 2 oz??
txsharpshooter85 ya the small bottle. I think it was $15.99 or $19.99. I had a lot left over but I mixed the whole thing so I couldn't reuse it. I would buy small and mix the whole thing, you don't wanna have to mix more after you applied. I tried other stuff but this It's really easy to use and it's thick so you don't have to worry as much with cleanup and it's easy to sand
I have bedded recoil lugs before, but doing the whole action makes me nervous. Particularly the action screws. I don't see how you keep the bedding compound from sealing the screws in the threads, even with release agent.
txsharpshooter85 I was the same way. I was biting my nails doing it but that marine Tex made it easy. I loaded everything with shoe polish, especially the screws. There isn't enough compound to fall into the holes themselves. I let it sit for about an hour and then back the screws out a hair and then tightened them back up. When I cleaned up there wasn't any compound even near the screws. I got some in a magwell and trigger gaurd but a Drexel made the cleanup easy.
Thanks for the video, looks like you did a good job. I am shooting a 700 in 243 as well. It has a Rock Creek Sendero contour 8 twist barrel. Currently in a Bell and Carlson M40, been thinking about bedding...might get enough balls to do it one day. What load are you shooting in your 243?
txsharpshooter85 I bed the recoil lug area awhile back and I got a rocking motion like there was a high spot near the recoil lug, so I decided to bed the whole thing. I don't have the rocking or teetering motion I had anymore. I was shooting 105 amax and it shot great. I would shoot 10 groups an all 10 were under 3/4". When I went to order more bullets they didn't have any so I went with hornady 105 bthp. I took it to range and I couldn't hit a 12" pie plate. It was every where's. I checked all action screws, swapped 3-4 scopes and rings, nothing. I did load workup for 75,87,100sierra and 105. I got the best groups from 100 Sierra and that was around 2". Not impressed. I bed the action and it's more consistent with all ammo but still no better than 2". I took it to smith to check the throat and rifling and he said it's fine. We are gonna recrown this week and if that doesn't work I'm gonna order a Mcree pre fit barrel with a nut, then I can change my own. We have no gunsmiths that work with metal in my area so I have to send out of state and wait 6 months....sucks. Weird how the accuracy just disappreared
Why would you paint over the surface that is a perfect match with an uneven coat of nail polish. Defeated the whole purpose of the bedding
Nice
You really should torque your bolts to spec. Yes, that'll squeeze out a lot of compound. But everything that gets squeezed out is unnecessary. You're just adding too much material otherwise.
That will add stress- best to just lightly press the barreled action in and let it settle in
How many rounds have been through the rifle? 243 is quite the barrel burner. I don't shoot mine much but I hear 1000 rounds or even less may be the life of a 243 barrel. I've even heard flyers starting at 800 rounds and got much worse from there and that was in a Shilen SS match barrel which is much heavier than standard sporter style barrels.
I never heard that nonsense before
@@carolinausedmachinery Unlike you, I do understand overbore, which is why I have enough brains to know a 243 is not a overbore barrel burner, in fact it is considered about ideal for the caliber , you might want to read a few books by PO. Ackley , he is an expert on the subject .
There could have been better prep work. Always tape up the insides of the magazine walls with tape to avoid over spill and quick clean up. But good job
Marine Tex gray doesn't show up quit as bad as white.
It is also quite a bit stronger as well.
Ah Yes I remember my 1st time. 👍
Lightly used gun for sale
First off that's the bolt release not the safety. Second shoe polish works and so does Johnson paste wax however sin-lube 2000 works best.
Don't use tape just mold release, Tape just sucks.
putting tape on the recoil lug. makes no sense. if you want a tight fit....
It’s clay not putty
Wrong! Both the front side and back of the recoil lug must be bedded.
ok am I the only one that heard him say u can use a 243 on squirrel?????? lmao ooook. if u dont plan on eating it lol
Who TF eats squirrel?
@@jeffzaccaro me
You mean whats left of it!
Look into Getting a Boyds At-One Stock Fully Adjustable and you can Bed it yourself...
The "gun experts" claim that's a "vent hole". I guess that escaping gas is going to blow right through the RH bolt lug when that case blows so it can get out that hole. Because that hold is covered and plugged when the bolt and lugs are in battery. That hole is there so smart 700 owners can put a drop of oil or two in a long-idle and "dry" rifle before cracking the bolt open for the first time in weeks or months. Otherwise there's a good chance that lug and recess are dry as a bone. Remington 700s have the famous "THREE RINGS OF STEEL" to PREVENT CASE HEAD SEPARATIONS PERIOD. The THREE RINGS are the BARREL, the RECEIVER and the "BAND" AROUND THE BOLT HEAD AND FACE YOU'LL NOTICE IS COMPLETELY UN-INTERRUPTED. CASES BLOW WITH SUCH VIOLENCE AND FORCE WHEN THEY'RE ALLOWED TO THAT YOU DON'T HAVE A CHANCE IN HELL OF "VENTING" A HIGH-POWERED RIFLE CASE BLAST OUT THE BACK END WITHOUT SHATTERING THE STOCK AND OR BLOWING THE BOLT RIGHT OUT OF THE RIFLE, SPLITTING THE RECEIVER ETC.
Hell a "low-pressure" .45 ACP case that's "hot" or "compromised" and blows the case can and will blow the magazine completely out of a 1911 OR blow all the remaining cartridges, follower, spring and floor plate out of the magazine or TRY LIKE HELL and will blast every bit of the oil out of the pistol and will slam the slide back so violently and quickly the recoil spring will instantly "fail" and be flimsy and weak as if it had a million rounds on it since new and all that shit happens in less than the blink of an eye. But the pistol will stay together because its "only" an "overpressure" round in a cartridge that "only" maxes out at about 21,000 psi. And you're talking about 500 lb.-ft. of muzzle energy max with a "hot" .45 ACP load.
You really think a wooden stock and "bottom metal" in a BDL (If you don't know what a Remington 700 "BDL" and "ADL" are, don't think you're going to be "gunsmithing" any time soon for anybody that's serious about his rifles and Remingtons) is going to "contain" somewhere north of 70,000 psi which is where U.S. "high-powerd rifles" are generally "proofed" to and probably closer to 100,000 psi if the case "vaporizes" if even one tenth of the gas gets out the back end, you're dreaming.
Remington knew that and they used and still use those "THREE RINGS OF STEEL" to contain or at least "divert" and/or "slow down" that blast JUST LONG ENOUGH FOR THE OVERWHELMING MAJORITY OF THE GAS, PRESSURE AND ENERGY TO GO OUT THE "FRONT DOOR". In a 700 the bolt "engages that "recess" in the back of the barrel. There is ZERO exposed case PERIOD when a properly built 700 some "gunsmith" hasn't BUTCHERED fucking around and fucking up the bolt and and "opening up" the bolt head and especially putting in an "M16" or "Sako" extractor and ABSOLUTELY HASN'T TOUCHED THE DAMN LOCKING LUGS AND RECESSES TRYING TO "TRUE" THE "ACTION".
Do ANY or ALL of those things and go BEAT THE HELL OUT OF YOUR 700 WITH HOT AMMO IN YOUR "PRECISION RIFLE" THAT WENT TO THE GUNSMITH "TIGHT AND SOLID" AND CAME HOME "LOOSE AND SLOPPY" AND YOU ARE ALMOST GUARANTEED TO FIND OUT THAT AIN'T NO VENT HOLE IF YOU'RE "STUCK ON STUPID" JACKING ROUNDS THAT ARE "SAFE" BECAUSE THERE'S NO "PRESSURE SIGNS" OR "NOT MANY" AND YOU'RE SHOOTING STUPIDLY "LONG" CARTRIDGES WAY, WAY OVER THE MAX COL FOR THAT CARTRIDGE THROUGH THE RIFLE AND HAVE TO "SINGLE-LOAD" A FREAKING REPEATING RIFLE.
ANY "GUNSMITH" WHO THINKS HE CAN "BUILD' A 700 BETTER THAN REMINGTON AND CAN "FIX" WHAT REMINGTON SUPPOSEDLY "DID WRONG" BUILDING ITS OWN RIFLE TO ITS OWN SPECS IS EITHER INCREDIBLY STUPID OR INCREDIBLY COCKY ABOUT HIS "SKILLS" BUT MOST LIKE IS INCREDIBLY "BOTH". IF YOU TOUCH A REMINGTON RECEIVER OR BOLT WITH A "CUTTER", I GUARANTEE YOU JUST PUT A "SALVAGE TITLE" ON YOUR 700 AS FAR AS IT EVER HAVING ANY "RESALE" OR "TRADE" VALUE TO ANYBODY BUT ANOTHER IDIOT WHO THINKS "LOOSE" AND "SLOPPY" BOLTS ARE "NECESSARY" FOR A "PRECISION RIFLE". NOBODY ELSE WILL TOUCH A "TRUED" REMINGTON "ACTION" WITH A TEN FOOT POLE. YOU IMMEDIATELY "RUIN" THE ENTIRE ACTION. "TOUCH" THE LUGS, RECESSES OR FRONT FACE WITH A "CUTTER" TO TRUE THEM AND YOU JUST PUT A BUNCH OF EXTRA "HEADSPACE" IN THAT RIFLE OR TOOK A BUNCH "OUT" YOU CAN'T "GET RID OF" OR "PUT BACK" WITHOUT CUTTING A BUNCH MORE STEEL OFF A BUNCH MORE PARTS. AND THEN YOU'LL HAVE TO "RELOCATE" THE FREAKING BOLT-HANDLE ON THAT "THREE-PIECE"" BOLT BODY TO TRY TO 'GET BACK" PRIMARY EXTRACTION AND "LOCKUP". I SAID "THREE-PIECE" BOLT BECAUSE IT IS THREE SEPARATE PIECES. THE HANDLE, THE "MAIN" SECTION OF THE BODY THAT GOES FROM ABOUT HALF AN INCH BEHIND THE LUGS TO THE REAR OF THE BOLT AND THEN THE "HEAD" WHICH IS 'WELDED" TO THE REAR SECTION. AND YES.. IT IS "SHAPED LIKE A BANANA". ON PURPOSE. WHY?
BECAUSE SOME PEOPLE AT REMINGTON KNEW HOW TO BUILD THE "BEST" DAMNED BOLT-ACTION SPORTING RIFLE IN HISTORY AND THE ONE THAT EARNED THAT TITLE BY "BEATING" WINCHESTER AND THE MODEL 70 AT THEIR OWN GAME. IN 1964 WINCHESTER HAD TO "RUIN" THE MODEL 70 BY MAKING EXTENSIVE "PRODUCTION CHANGES" THAT TOOK "THE RIFLEMAN'S RIFLE" WITH A RECEIVER THAT STARTED AS A 7+ BILLET OF STEEL AND 70+ MACHINING OPERATIONS LATER WAS A MODEL 70 RECEIVER FULLY MACHINED AND MACHINED SO WELL THAT IF YOU "GUT" A PRE-'64 MODEL 70 YOU WON'T FIND MACHINE MARK OR SHARP EDGE OF UNFINISHED/UNPOLISHED SURFACE ONE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE OF THAT RECEIVER. THEY LOOK LIKE THEY'RE "INVESTMENT CAST". SINCE 1964 THEY DON'T LOOK LIKE THAT ANY MORE. THEY'RE "CHEAP" AND "UNFINISHED" AND "CLUNKY" AND THEY STILL HAVE THE MAUSER -STYLE "CLAW EXTRACTOR" BUT THEY HAVEN'T HAD "CONTROLLED ROUND FEED" SINCE '64. WHAT IS "CONTROLLED ROUND FEED"?
WHEN YOU PUSH THE BOLT FORWARD TO CHAMBER A CARTRIDGE THE TOP CARTRIDGE "JUMPS" UP IN FRONT OF AN "INTO" THE BOLT FACE AND "STICKS ITS RIM" BEHIND THE EXTRACTOR "HOOK". THE CARTRIDGE IS LITERALLY "STUCK" ON THE FRONT OF THE BOLT UNTIL ITS CHAMBERED, EXTRACTED (FIRED OR NOT) AND EJECTED BY PULLING THE BOLT CLEAR BACK. IT TAKES A LITTLE EFFORT AND TUNING AND "HAND-FITTING" AND DIFFERENT MAGAZINE "GUTS" FOR EVERY CARTRIDGE YOU CHAMBER THE RIFLE FOR. NO "ONE SIZE FITS ALL" THING LIKE YOU CAN GET AWAY WITH WHEN YOU HAVE "PUSH FEED" AT LONG AS YOU HAVE A "UNIVERSAL" FOLLOWER AND A "BLIND MAGAZINE" LIKE A 700 ADL.
BRING A BOX MAGAZINE OR "BOTTOM METAL" INTO THE PICTURE AND YOU PRETTY MUCH HAVE TO GO BACK TO MAKING A DIFFERENT FOLLOWER AND POSSIBLY A DIFFERENT "BOX" FOR EACH AND EVERY CARTRIDGE. AND THAT'S HOW REMINGTON "DESTROYED' WINCHESTER. WINCHESTER HASN'T INTRODUCED A BRAND-NEW BOLT-ACTION RIFLE SINCE THE MODEL 70 CAME OUT IN THE 1920S. BECAUSE REMINGTON HAS COME OUT WITH A PILE OF NEW RIFLES AND STARTED EMBARRASSING WINCHESTER AND PRETTY MUCH THE REST OF THE WORLD IN 1906 WHEN REMINGTON AND A FAIRLY DECENT "GUN DESIGNER" BY THE NAME OF JOHN MOSES BROWNING UNLEASHED UPON THE WORLD THE FIRST SEMI-AUTOMATIC, VERTICAL BOX MAGAZINE "SPORTING RIFLE" AND "RIFLE PERIOD" IN THE HISTORY OF THE WORLD. FROM 1906 THROUGH 1907 IT WAS THE "REMINGTON AUTLOADING RIFLE". IN 1908 IT BECAME THE "MODEL 8". IN 1911 FN STARTED BUILDING/SELLING THEM AS THE "1900". IN 1936 WHEN .300 SAVAGE WAS ADDED TO .25/.30/.32 AND .35 REMINGTON - THE FIRST BRAND-NEW SMOKELESS, RIMLESS "COMMERCIAL" SPORTING RIFLE CARTRIDGES IN THE WORLD THAT DIDN'T START AS "MILITARY" CARTRIDGES, IT BECAME THE MODEL 81 "WOODSMASTER".
FROM THAT POINT ON, WINCHESTER WAS PRETTY MUCH HOSED. REMINGTON WAS STILL REMINGTON - THE COMPANY STARTED BY A "COMPETITION SHOOTER" WHO WAS AN "AMATEUR GUNSMITH" BUT DIDN'T HAVE THE ABILITY TO RIFLE HIS OWN BARRELS AND WHEN HE PAID AN "EXPERT" TO RIFLE A BARREL FOR HIS NEW "BUILD" AND IT ENDED UP BEING SHIT IN HIS OPINION DESPITE EVERY OTHER LOCAL "COMPETITION SHOOTER" USING THAT "EXPERTS" PARTS, RIFLES, SERVICES, HE DID WHAT JOHN BROWNING DID AND SAID WHAT JOHN BROWNING SAID AT 10 YEARS OLD: "I CAN MAKE ONE BETTER THAN THAT!" AND LIKE JOHN BROWNING, ELIPHALET REMINGTON PUT HIS"GUN MAKING" TALENTS INTO "MACHINE TOOL MAKING", BUILT HIS OWN RIFLING MACHINE, RIFLED HIS FIRST BARREL WITH IT AND PUT HIS FIRST BARREL IN HIS FIRST "HOMEMADE" 100% ALL HIS WORK RIFLE AND AT THE NEXT "COMPETITION" - A TURKEY SHOOT - LAID WASTE TO THE FIELD. HE DIDN'T GET MUCH MORE OPPORTUNITY TO COMPETE AFTER THAT. HE WAS TOO BUSY BUILDING AND RIFLING BARRELS AND REBARRELING "BRAND X" RIFLES AND BUILDING NEW RIFLES FOR THE GUYS STUCK WITH SHIT THAT WASN'T WORTH "FIXING".
THERE'S A HELL OF A LOT OF "GUNSMITHS" OUT THERE THAT CLAIM 700S AREN'T WORTH A SHIT UNTIL THEY MAGICALLY "FIX" THEM WITH THEIR WORN-OUT SCRAPYARD-REJECT LATHES AND THEIR "GOING OUT OF BUSINESS TOOL AUCTION" WORN-OUT PRECISION "MEASURING TOOLS" THEY DON'T EVEN KNOW HOW TO USE PROPERLY WHEN THEY DO MANAGE TO USE THEM FOR THE RIGHT TASKS. FYI - YOU DON'T "MEASURE" DIMENSIONS WITH A DIAL INDICATOR AND ANYBODY WHO IS "BUILDING" SO-CALLED "PRECISON" RIFLES BY "FIXING" WHAT REMINGTON "GOT WRONG" AND YOU NEVER HEAR A SPECIFICATION OR TOLERANCE OR DIMENSION OUT OF HIS MOUTH THAT DOESN'T INCLUDE "ABOUT" OR "MAYBE" OR "AROUND" OR "A FEW" OR "A COUPLE" AND HE'S TOO DAMNED LAZY TO SAY "THOUSANDTHS" INSTEAD OF "THOU", THERE'S YET ANOTHER SIGN YOU'D BETTER EITHER RUN THE OTHER WAY BEFORE YOU HAND HIM EVEN A DAISY BB GUN TO FIX IF HE DOESN'T ALREADY HAVE ONE OR MORE OF YOUR "BABIES" AND IF HE DOES, YOU'D BETTER GET IT THE HELL BACK BEFORE HE PUTS PART ONE IN THE LATHE TO "INDICATE IT IN" BECAUSE IF A CUTTER TOUCHES YOUR 700 PERIOD, YOU MAY AS WELL CALL REMINGTON, BUY ONE OF THEIR BRAND-NEW "STRIPPED" 700 "ACTIONS", DELIVER IT TO "SUPER SMITH" AND TELL HIM TO "BUILD" YOUR RIFLE RIGHT BACK TO WHAT IT WAS WHEN YOU BROUGHT IT IN ON THAT NEW RECEIVER AND THAT IF HE EVEN MENTIONS "TRUING" ANYTHING, HE'LL BE TRYING TO "INDICATE IN" THAT OLD ACTION HE JUST RUINED WITH IT HANGING OUT OF HIS ASS WHICH MIGHT MAKE IT A "CHALLENGE" TO "DIAL IN".
SERIOUSLY. GOOD GUNSMITHS DO NOT "FIX" RIFLES THAT "DON'T SHOOT" UNTIL THEY'VE MADE SURE ITS NOT THE OWNER THAT "DON'T SHOOT" FIRST.
You should wright a book Bud.
You must’ve an annoying sob.
Someone didn't drink his coffee this morning!
Maybe off his meds!
I love you man!!!
That table vise is garbage.
FYI .243 is a well-known BARREL BURNER. Go out and shoot a bunch of rounds through them in a hell of a hurry doing the "long-range" thing and you can and will "burn up" a barrel faster than damned near any other "common" and "popular" American high-powered rifle cartridge. See those shoulders? Not NEARLY enough "angle" and .243 just FLOODS the throat with high volumes of high-pressure and high-temp gas. When a rifle just "goes away" in a hell of a hurry, its either the "optic" or the owner beat the dogshit out of it with hot and high-volume shooting, got it hot and hot repeatedly and it doesn't make a damn bit of difference if it "only" has 500 rounds or "only" 1500. There are no hard and fast rules for when a barrel "wears out". And if you notice its STARTING to lose accuracy/precision and in an attempt to "figure out" what the problem is and keep shooting the hell out of as often as possible trying to get your "baby" back, you'll take the barrel the rest of the way out in as few as tens or scores of rounds whereas a SMART and EXPERIENCE "old-timer" who knows the signs of impending barrel "failure" ARE groups "opening up" and how DOESN'T SHOOT HIS RIFLES WITH MAXED OUT AMMO OR ANYWHERE NEAR IT SO HE HAS PLENTY OF "SAFETY FACTOR" AND GETS MAX BARREL AND RIFLE LIFE will have the OPPORTUNITY TO "BUMP UP" HIS LOADS TO GET THE LOST PRESSURE/VELOCITY BACK AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE AND HE WON'T WASTE A ROUND TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON. HE'LL LOOK AT THE "OPTIC" AND THE THROAT AND HE'LL KNOW WHAT THE DEAL IS. AT THAT POINT IF YOU'RE SHOOTING JUST ENOUGH TO STAY "ENTERTAINED" AND/OR "COMPETITIVE" AND YOU BUMP CHARGES AND MAKE DAMN SURE TO FULL-LENGTH SIZE YOUR BRASS AT EVERY RELOAD AND AND LET THE CASES "STRETCH" AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE TO KEEP THE NECKS AS LONG AS POSSIBLE TO MOVE THE "BLAST" FORWARD ON THE THROAT AS FAR AS POSSIBLE AND YOU SLOW THE HELL DOWN AND LET THE DAMNED RIFLE COOL OFF AFTER EVER FEW ROUNDS, YOU MIGHT GET HUNDREDS MORE ROUNDS BEFORE IT FINALLY LAYS DOWN FOR GOOD.
DEEREMEYER1 I don’t know who “told you” that “using quotations” on everything is “correct”, but they were completely “wrong”.
@@Tyler_Mattson I think most of what he babbles is wrong
You sound like my ole man texting. He loves them "quotations"
You exaggerate way too much. I have never seen 150 grain .243 bullet. To say 3,4,5 even six months is like a huge difference. You shouldn’t do that. You should narrow it down or not say that kind of stuff. Be truthful about that caliber. I’ve only seen 100 grain and that’s the biggest one I’ve ever seen. I would love to know where to get 150 grain bullet for my .243.
He said 115 grain not 150.
Southernproof86 Ok but I’d still like to see a 115 grain. Where can I get some?
@@S.Womack346 You can buy some online or if you handload, you can make your own.
first try and of course you fuckt it completely... oh my god why are you doing that?? stay with the original stock or buy a better rifle man :) LOL