Always check voltage with the load connected by back probing. Under zero load you will often get normal voltage readings and end up replacing the fan motor for nothing.
I tested my evaporator motor unplugged and it came in at 35 ohms and then applied remote 110 while unplugged. The motor ran independently. Then tested input 110 wires, while motor was unplugged, but fridge plugged in, tried run mode, and defrost mode, by rotating defrost timer. (which I have just replaced). Also, the thermostat defrost sensor is open circuit . Which I believe means its bad…(waiting for part) Still no 110 volts at evaporator motor terminals??? Also condenser runs when plugged in.
Always check voltage with the load connected by back probing. Under zero load you will often get normal voltage readings and end up replacing the fan motor for nothing.
I tested my evaporator motor unplugged and it came in at 35 ohms and then applied remote 110 while unplugged. The motor ran independently.
Then tested input 110 wires, while motor was unplugged, but fridge plugged in, tried run mode, and defrost mode, by rotating defrost timer. (which I have just replaced).
Also, the thermostat defrost sensor is open circuit . Which I believe means its bad…(waiting for part)
Still no 110 volts at evaporator motor terminals??? Also condenser runs when plugged in.