Yeah, I questioned their torque spec as well. It's a bitch getting that nut to break loose!! Appreciate it, bro. I know it's been a minute since I've uploaded. We've had some family stuff going on, but it's over now. Off road season about to kick off, so I intend to get some more content out soon. Thanks for sticking around!!👊🏻🤘🏻
Thanks for the compliment! That's why I started this channel, to help novices. I'm not an expert by any stretch of the imagination. However, I've been around Jeeps a long time (mainly cuz I'm old, LMAO!), and most of what I've learned has been through trial and error. Mostly error. Glad you're digging the channel!👍🏻👊🏻🤘🏻
Great video. I’ve had good luck with Rusty’s products in the past. Had the HD Rusty’s steering kit on my TJ... Solid. Used the Rusty’s winch plate recently as well. 👍💪
Yeah, this steering kit is the first thing I've ever used from Rusty's. I've heard some negative things about a few products, but for the most part, their parts seem to be good quality. I'm very happy with the steering kit, so far! 😁 Thanks for watching, and the comment!!👍🏻🤘🏻
Great video. I went with the Metal cloak to stick with my lift, but your right as long as you go with a quality manufacture it will be a ton better than stock. Keep it up.
That's AWESOME!! Glad you like the channel, though not everything is a step by step. Some are more of a basic overview. Don't want you getting your hopes up, LOL!!😏😉👊🏻🤘🏻
you probably dont give a damn but does any of you know a trick to log back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot the account password. I love any tips you can offer me!
I've had some friends who've not been real happy with the JL Synergy stuff. But, I have friends who LOVE the Synergy JK stuff, so.... I had their track bar on my JK, and was happy with it. I went with Rusty's tie rod/drag link on JL because of my friend's experiences with the JL stuff. I've been happy with my choice. Thanks for watching and the comment!!👊🏻🤘🏻
Jk and Jl owners are fortunate that they have as many options with sealed tie rods. TJ owners have only a couple and the rest are open heim joints. No thank you. We’ve been pretty happy with Rustys thus far. Excellent customer service.
Yeah, I've been happy to this point. We have a TJ too, and put the Currie Correct Link steering on it. Works great! Thanks for watching, and the comment!!😁👍🏻🤘🏻
I would go to the local nuts and bolts store and add a jamb nut to the jamb nut. I would also try some electrical tape on the jaws of the wrench on the freshly painted parts to keep from gouging the paint and having a rusty spot in a few months. Underside of your rig looked like it had 6 miles on it. How do you keep it so clean? Subbed, which is something I do on about 1 in 200 videos I watch. Good job.
Appreciate it! Yeah, so I've had this steering for 4 or 5 yrs now and have had no issues except the passenger side jamb nut did work it's way loose while wheeling at Windrock a couple yrs ago. Couple big ass crecent wrenches took care of it. Haven't had it happen again, but it is something I keep an eye on. As far as the cleanliness of Napalm....I have a video on how I clean it.🤣🤣🤣 Glad you liked the vid!🤘🏻
I was yelling at you to open your hand before you crunch a knuckle. Then you heard me and opened your hand! Lmfao! This one looks solid, very similar to RK. Keep an eye on the jamb nut, thats where we experienced issues when we ran this style. Keep em good n tight and check em often and it'll give you some good years of service. Come on now, we know you picked it cause of its purdy color! 🤣
I went with these for my JK was thinking about Terraflex but at almost $900!! 😱 no way. Rusty’s came up to $550 including Tax and Shipping 👌🏻 these things are super heavy duty with the money I saved I bought a set of Terraflex Heavy Dury Bolt Joints instead 👍🏻 and still spend $830 total, now my JK drives like a Cadillac with 35’s.
Right on, man!! I agree, for the price, you can't beat these. I've been VERY happy with this set up so far! Thanks for watching, and the comment!!👍🏻👊🏻🤘🏻
12:09 you are a life saver sir I thought I ordered the wrong clamp from Rusty's. Because I couldn't find ANY information anywhere on how to install the damned thing. It just didn't make sense to mount it to a tie rod end vs the conventional method where you clamp the stabilizer to the tie rod itself. I assume the other end of the falcon mount to the axle no need for special brackets?
@@ghernandez6457 So, it all depends. If your stabilizer is mounted in the stock location (like mine is), the other end mounts to the front of the fad. If your stabilizer is NOT in the stock location, one end will mount to track bar bracket and the other end mounts to the tie rod. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻
Hello, I know this is an older video, but I thought I'd mention the fact that you still have the aluminum steering box. There is a TSB # 08-074-20. This TSB will replace your aluminum box with a steel one. My 18JL had a lot of slop steering before this update. I highly recommend doing this and the dealer cannot reject you because of a lift as long as your alignment is correct.
Yes sir, I'm aware of the TSB. Just been too busy (and lazy) to get it done, LOL. But, it's on the short list of things for this spring. Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
With the Synergy Track Bar and Sector Shaft brace installed I don't feel that it's really necessary anymore to do the steel steering gear box but it doesn't hurt to do so and have both. I'm thinking the difference in steering feel and response will be negligible?
Looking for some help. I went to install this tie rod. I have the falcon steering stabilizer in the factory location. I see you were able to reinstall yours. The bracket that mount back to the tie rod is too big? Did they send the wrong one? I’m trying to remove this tie rod now but the ends won’t come out. Any help?
It's possible they sent the wrong one. If I remember correctly, when you ordered this tie rod, there was a question whether your stabilizer was in stock location or not. As far as the ends being stuck, I assume you mean stuck in the knuckles. So, just take a dead blow hammer and smack the FRONT part of the knuckle where the end is attached. Honestly, you can drive without the stabilizer if you want. It's not going to hurt anything. Before you go to all the trouble of removing, I'd try to get with whoever you ordered from. Hit me up on my email at projectnapalmjl@yahoo.com if you have any other questions. Hope you get it worked out. Thanks for the question!
I'm at work this weekend, but (if) you order this kit, it will ask you whether your stabilizer is in the OE position or tie rod. It will come with the hardware for your configuration. Mine is in the OE position, and came with a clamp that mounts one end of the stabilizer to the passenger side tie rod end (similar to OE) and the other mounts to the front of the FAD.
Absolutely! I've had my front end apart a few times the last month or so, and the ends are still real tight! So far, I'm VERY happy with this set up. Thanks for watching and the question!!👍🏻🤘🏻
Now that is a BEEFY steering setup! I’m glad you mentioned right hand and left hand thread for the opposite ends. Awesome Video! The JL is looking good!!
It’s been a little while since you’ve installed these. How do you like them so far? I’ve ordered the aluminum tie rod from Rusty’s. Trying to decide if I want the drag link or not.
Very happy with this set up. I've had the front end apart several times since installing these, and the ends are still real tight. Only downside is they're heavy. Almost wishing I'd have gone with aluminum, but I've smacked the tie rod on rocks a few times and it hasn't bent. Main thing is the ends. They're MUCH better quality than OEM. Thanks for the question! 🤘🏻
I thought about going the aluminum tie rod route with Rusty's but after hearing bad things about the factory aluminum gear box I'm afraid to go to anything that involves steering with aluminum parts so I went with the steel version. It's taken some beating but it's been fine so far. Like anything out there if you hit something hard enough it'll bend or break including aluminum. Very happy with it.
If you have the aluminum gear box, the dealer will replace it at no cost. I haven't done mine because I plan on going to a whole different set up. But, it's worth looking into if you're going to keep it.👍🏻
good job! I would like to ask you if you feel like giving me dispassionate advice. I have death wobble problems on my rubicon jlu do you think replacing the drag link and tie bar could help solve the situation? or do I throw money away for nothing? from Italy!
Glad you liked the vid!! To answer your question, I'll say this: Death Wobble is/can be caused by several issues and/or a combination of several. Since you have a JLU, I'd suggest changing the ball joints first. I have a video about the Dynatrac HD ball joints. Or you could just do a ball joint delete. Either way that would be my FIRST attempt at fixing the problem. Next, I suggest a track bar reinforcement bracket. I have a video on the Synergy bracket, but SteerSmarts makes one too. Death Wobble is caused by worn parts. More commonly control arm and/or track bar bushings. But, the JL has significant issues right from the factory with regard to ball joints and the track bar. Which, is why I'd go that route first. Hope this helps. Ciao!!🤘🏻
@@ShockWaveOffroad thank you for the suggestions, i'm going for elimination and i'm really freaking out because on close inspection i find no gaps on any joints and the ball joints seem free of play, the track bar is synergy as well as the lower control arms, fox shock absorbers, and springs synergy 2 ". Currently it does not give problems only because I have installed the fox top level steering damper adjustable with 5 clicks from the maximum. I had put the intermediate model always fox and it seemed that the wheels came off after a bump / hole in the asphalt Obviously, however, this is not a solution ... anyway thanks again for your prompt reply.
@Roberto Foppiani To get an accurate idea of your ball joints, you'll need to remove the steering knuckle. Once you've done that, grab the stem of the ball joint and if you can move it in ANY direction with one hand, that's a weak joint. Also, now knowing you're lifted, make sure your control arms are at the correct length, especially the lowers. The JL is EXTREMELY sensitive to caster and has a very small optimal window. Caster won't "cause" death wobble, but the caster being too far out (either way) could potentially cause stress on the parts that do. Hope you get it figured out!🤘🏻
@@ShockWaveOffroad ok I understand that the main suspects are the ball joint and if I don't disconnect the drag link I can't evaluate the actual game, in case they have any. I will certainly take this into account, as soon as I have some time I will do further checks. for now, thank you very much for your availability and courtesy, greetings from Milan, Italy. P.S. let's stop the war and that Russian dictator before it's too late.
I agree. However, I don't have ANY faith in the INSTALLED piece of shit we have in the White House. We'll just have to hope it works out soon. One thing for sure....the Ukranians are giving the whole world a lesson in liberty.🤘🏻
Rattle can. I find it difficult to spend money on powdercoat when I know it's gonna get scratched up. Just rough it up with a scotch brite pad, couple coats of primer, couple coats of the paint of your choice, and a couple coats of clear. That's what I did.👍🏻
Yes, it will work just fine. The size lift doesn't matter. What DOES matter is the backspace of your wheels. If you have 3.5"-4.5" of backspace (which is most common), the tie rod won't touch the tire. If you've got that much lift, I'd suggest doing the drag link flip while you're at it. Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻
I was curious, do you still like the Rusty's steering system? I just bought one for my JKU sport 2010 about 15 minutes ago. I hope you have good things to say.
LMAO!! Yup, still running it and the ends have not been replaced yet. Very happy with this set up. It's a bit heavy compared to aluminum, but that's the only downside. Make sure you periodically look at your jamb nuts on the tie rod, as they do sometimes back off a little. Rest easy, that isn't an issue with just this steering kit. It's actually a pretty common thing. Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
Yes, I am. Ends are still in good shape and the tie rod hasn't bent even with a couple pretty hard hits on rocks. Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻
Thank you for the great install video. I have the same falcoln steering stabilizer that replaced the stock one and I was wondering how it bolted on. Thanks!
Extremely well! With MANY wheeling trips under it now, the ends have held up VERY well. No intent to change them out any time soon. The tie rod has taken some pretty good hits, and is still straight. My ONLY problem with this set up is weight. The drag link and tie rod are HEAVY. I mean, I expect that from high quality DOM tube. But, if I ever go another direction, it'll be to aluminum, and because of weight only. If you're considering a steel steering set up, I highly recommend this one. Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻
@@ShockWaveOffroad Thanks for the video and the reviews, just bought a JT and will be doing the Clayton lift with Falcons. Have the synergy brace and falcon steering stabilizer on the way to start.
@@ShockWaveOffroad I noticed after talked rustys now has an aluminum setup out made out of 1.825 solid 7075. it doesn't list a weight for either the DOM or 7075 though and the 7075 is 69 dollars more for each piece.
@@JMSynthetics If they're using the same ends on the aluminum as the DOM, I'd go that route. The ends are really what you're in it for. The weight from the DOM adds to the stress on the ends. Aluminum will put less stress on them. For $140 more, I'd go aluminum.
Anyone who is serious about offroading is using shafts made out of 7075 aluminum. I don't care the material or thickness, if it's made out of steel it's going to bend. These don't look any better than the junk Synergy and Steer Smarts is selling.
lmao, if you can't stay on schedule, ima have to unsubscribe to this channel sir. crows foot will help torquing the pitman arm nut btw good video bro, with any system, it really gonna boil down to the ends.... s far SS has been great for me, only issues I had when I flipped the steering to top knuckle and it started to rub into radiator lines and the frame. The clamps are bulky, but you can put a lot of torque on them... synergy,,, strong as well,,, but I really need to make a video about them.... so many things to do,,, not enough time to do it lol
![มองหน้ากันไม่ติด (Awkward) - โอ๊ต ปราโมทย์ FEAT. MAIYARAP [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4b02SY_r6Gw/mqdefault.jpg)
Factory spec is 184 foot pounds for pitman arm nut. Rusty’s instructions calls out 75 foot pounds? And we need more content, as yours is awesome!
Yeah, I questioned their torque spec as well. It's a bitch getting that nut to break loose!! Appreciate it, bro. I know it's been a minute since I've uploaded. We've had some family stuff going on, but it's over now. Off road season about to kick off, so I intend to get some more content out soon. Thanks for sticking around!!👊🏻🤘🏻
Brother, you are a legend! This content is so valuable to us novices. Thanks for putting this out there so we can all benefit from it.
Thanks for the compliment! That's why I started this channel, to help novices. I'm not an expert by any stretch of the imagination. However, I've been around Jeeps a long time (mainly cuz I'm old, LMAO!), and most of what I've learned has been through trial and error. Mostly error. Glad you're digging the channel!👍🏻👊🏻🤘🏻
Great video. I’ve had good luck with Rusty’s products in the past. Had the HD Rusty’s steering kit on my TJ... Solid. Used the Rusty’s winch plate recently as well. 👍💪
Yeah, this steering kit is the first thing I've ever used from Rusty's. I've heard some negative things about a few products, but for the most part, their parts seem to be good quality. I'm very happy with the steering kit, so far! 😁 Thanks for watching, and the comment!!👍🏻🤘🏻
Great video. I went with the Metal cloak to stick with my lift, but your right as long as you go with a quality manufacture it will be a ton better than stock. Keep it up.
Thanks man, glad you like it!!👍🏻🤘🏻
Great video! Trackbar and draglink will be my next big upgrades. Saw you on hwy40. I was in the UPS truck that was beeping the horn when you went by.
OMG!! I was like, "WTF IS HE HONKING AT??" LMAO!! Glad you like the channel!!😁👍🏻🤘🏻
This is quickly becoming my favorite how to channel. Learned a lot on this one.🥇
That's AWESOME!! Glad you like the channel, though not everything is a step by step. Some are more of a basic overview. Don't want you getting your hopes up, LOL!!😏😉👊🏻🤘🏻
you probably dont give a damn but does any of you know a trick to log back into an instagram account??
I was dumb forgot the account password. I love any tips you can offer me!
@Terry Esteban instablaster ;)
Great step by step! Continue the awesome work.
Thanks, will do!
I wish all install videos were like this. Awesome job.
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching and the comment!!🤘🏻
2 grunts and a groan! Subscribed!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤘🏻
Another good video. May go this route Vs the Synergy. Plus their stuff is all backordered.
I've had some friends who've not been real happy with the JL Synergy stuff. But, I have friends who LOVE the Synergy JK stuff, so.... I had their track bar on my JK, and was happy with it. I went with Rusty's tie rod/drag link on JL because of my friend's experiences with the JL stuff. I've been happy with my choice. Thanks for watching and the comment!!👊🏻🤘🏻
Jk and Jl owners are fortunate that they have as many options with sealed tie rods. TJ owners have only a couple and the rest are open heim joints. No thank you. We’ve been pretty happy with Rustys thus far. Excellent customer service.
Yeah, I've been happy to this point. We have a TJ too, and put the Currie Correct Link steering on it. Works great! Thanks for watching, and the comment!!😁👍🏻🤘🏻
Great video.
Glad you enjoyed it
I would go to the local nuts and bolts store and add a jamb nut to the jamb nut. I would also try some electrical tape on the jaws of the wrench on the freshly painted parts to keep from gouging the paint and having a rusty spot in a few months. Underside of your rig looked like it had 6 miles on it. How do you keep it so clean? Subbed, which is something I do on about 1 in 200 videos I watch. Good job.
Appreciate it! Yeah, so I've had this steering for 4 or 5 yrs now and have had no issues except the passenger side jamb nut did work it's way loose while wheeling at Windrock a couple yrs ago. Couple big ass crecent wrenches took care of it. Haven't had it happen again, but it is something I keep an eye on. As far as the cleanliness of Napalm....I have a video on how I clean it.🤣🤣🤣 Glad you liked the vid!🤘🏻
Great video!!! Thank you.
Glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for watching and the comment!
I was yelling at you to open your hand before you crunch a knuckle. Then you heard me and opened your hand! Lmfao! This one looks solid, very similar to RK. Keep an eye on the jamb nut, thats where we experienced issues when we ran this style. Keep em good n tight and check em often and it'll give you some good years of service. Come on now, we know you picked it cause of its purdy color! 🤣
I've smashed a knuckle or two in my time. It's like my hands are calibrated to open at the most likely point of impact, LMAO!!
As for color, they come anodized black. I painted 'em purdy.😉🤣🤣🤣😁😁😎😎
I went with these for my JK was thinking about Terraflex but at almost $900!! 😱 no way. Rusty’s came up to $550 including Tax and Shipping 👌🏻 these things are super heavy duty with the money I saved I bought a set of Terraflex Heavy Dury Bolt Joints instead 👍🏻 and still spend $830 total, now my JK drives like a Cadillac with 35’s.
Right on, man!! I agree, for the price, you can't beat these. I've been VERY happy with this set up so far! Thanks for watching, and the comment!!👍🏻👊🏻🤘🏻
It is sorry. I upgraded to steersmarts. Helped a lot
Just about anything is better than the OEM crap, LOL! Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
12:09 you are a life saver sir I thought I ordered the wrong clamp from Rusty's. Because I couldn't find ANY information anywhere on how to install the damned thing. It just didn't make sense to mount it to a tie rod end vs the conventional method where you clamp the stabilizer to the tie rod itself. I assume the other end of the falcon mount to the axle no need for special brackets?
@@ghernandez6457 So, it all depends. If your stabilizer is mounted in the stock location (like mine is), the other end mounts to the front of the fad. If your stabilizer is NOT in the stock location, one end will mount to track bar bracket and the other end mounts to the tie rod. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻
OK 18 months later - how are those TRE holding up? Great video. Thank you for posting.
No issues whatsoever. Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻
Hello, I know this is an older video, but I thought I'd mention the fact that you still have the aluminum steering box. There is a TSB # 08-074-20. This TSB will replace your aluminum box with a steel one. My 18JL had a lot of slop steering before this update. I highly recommend doing this and the dealer cannot reject you because of a lift as long as your alignment is correct.
Yes sir, I'm aware of the TSB. Just been too busy (and lazy) to get it done, LOL. But, it's on the short list of things for this spring. Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
@@ShockWaveOffroad just thought I’d mention because of how huge of an upgrade it was! Have a great day!
@@xgaustinxg3413 Thanks man, I appreciate it! Lots of folks don't know about it. I should probably mention it in a vid! You have a great day as well!
With the Synergy Track Bar and Sector Shaft brace installed I don't feel that it's really necessary anymore to do the steel steering gear box but it doesn't hurt to do so and have both. I'm thinking the difference in steering feel and response will be negligible?
Looking for some help. I went to install this tie rod. I have the falcon steering stabilizer in the factory location. I see you were able to reinstall yours. The bracket that mount back to the tie rod is too big? Did they send the wrong one? I’m trying to remove this tie rod now but the ends won’t come out. Any help?
It's possible they sent the wrong one. If I remember correctly, when you ordered this tie rod, there was a question whether your stabilizer was in stock location or not. As far as the ends being stuck, I assume you mean stuck in the knuckles. So, just take a dead blow hammer and smack the FRONT part of the knuckle where the end is attached. Honestly, you can drive without the stabilizer if you want. It's not going to hurt anything. Before you go to all the trouble of removing, I'd try to get with whoever you ordered from. Hit me up on my email at projectnapalmjl@yahoo.com if you have any other questions. Hope you get it worked out. Thanks for the question!
what bolt did you end up using to mount the stabilizer to the bracket? Can you message me a picture of how you have it mounted?
I'm at work this weekend, but (if) you order this kit, it will ask you whether your stabilizer is in the OE position or tie rod. It will come with the hardware for your configuration. Mine is in the OE position, and came with a clamp that mounts one end of the stabilizer to the passenger side tie rod end (similar to OE) and the other mounts to the front of the FAD.
Has this kit held up for you over the last 6 months? I just had mine replaced with Synergy and it has made a considerable difference.
Absolutely! I've had my front end apart a few times the last month or so, and the ends are still real tight! So far, I'm VERY happy with this set up. Thanks for watching and the question!!👍🏻🤘🏻
Now that is a BEEFY steering setup! I’m glad you mentioned right hand and left hand thread for the opposite ends. Awesome Video! The JL is looking good!!
Thanks, brother!!
It’s been a little while since you’ve installed these. How do you like them so far? I’ve ordered the aluminum tie rod from Rusty’s. Trying to decide if I want the drag link or not.
Very happy with this set up. I've had the front end apart several times since installing these, and the ends are still real tight. Only downside is they're heavy. Almost wishing I'd have gone with aluminum, but I've smacked the tie rod on rocks a few times and it hasn't bent. Main thing is the ends. They're MUCH better quality than OEM. Thanks for the question! 🤘🏻
I thought about going the aluminum tie rod route with Rusty's but after hearing bad things about the factory aluminum gear box I'm afraid to go to anything that involves steering with aluminum parts so I went with the steel version. It's taken some beating but it's been fine so far. Like anything out there if you hit something hard enough it'll bend or break including aluminum. Very happy with it.
If you have the aluminum gear box, the dealer will replace it at no cost. I haven't done mine because I plan on going to a whole different set up. But, it's worth looking into if you're going to keep it.👍🏻
Does Rusty’s tie rod end doesn’t have cotter pins on the castle nuts?
No, it does not.
good job! I would like to ask you if you feel like giving me dispassionate advice. I have death wobble problems on my rubicon jlu do you think replacing the drag link and tie bar could help solve the situation? or do I throw money away for nothing? from Italy!
Glad you liked the vid!!
To answer your question, I'll say this: Death Wobble is/can be caused by several issues and/or a combination of several. Since you have a JLU, I'd suggest changing the ball joints first. I have a video about the Dynatrac HD ball joints. Or you could just do a ball joint delete. Either way that would be my FIRST attempt at fixing the problem. Next, I suggest a track bar reinforcement bracket. I have a video on the Synergy bracket, but SteerSmarts makes one too. Death Wobble is caused by worn parts. More commonly control arm and/or track bar bushings. But, the JL has significant issues right from the factory with regard to ball joints and the track bar. Which, is why I'd go that route first. Hope this helps. Ciao!!🤘🏻
@@ShockWaveOffroad thank you for the suggestions, i'm going for elimination and i'm really freaking out because on close inspection i find no gaps on any joints and the ball joints seem free of play, the track bar is synergy as well as the lower control arms, fox shock absorbers, and springs synergy 2 ". Currently it does not give problems only because I have installed the fox top level steering damper adjustable with 5 clicks from the maximum. I had put the intermediate model always fox and it seemed that the wheels came off after a bump / hole in the asphalt Obviously, however, this is not a solution ... anyway thanks again for your prompt reply.
@Roberto Foppiani To get an accurate idea of your ball joints, you'll need to remove the steering knuckle. Once you've done that, grab the stem of the ball joint and if you can move it in ANY direction with one hand, that's a weak joint. Also, now knowing you're lifted, make sure your control arms are at the correct length, especially the lowers. The JL is EXTREMELY sensitive to caster and has a very small optimal window. Caster won't "cause" death wobble, but the caster being too far out (either way) could potentially cause stress on the parts that do. Hope you get it figured out!🤘🏻
@@ShockWaveOffroad ok I understand that the main suspects are the ball joint and if I don't disconnect the drag link I can't evaluate the actual game, in case they have any. I will certainly take this into account, as soon as I have some time I will do further checks. for now, thank you very much for your availability and courtesy, greetings from Milan, Italy. P.S. let's stop the war and that Russian dictator before it's too late.
I agree. However, I don't have ANY faith in the INSTALLED piece of shit we have in the White House. We'll just have to hope it works out soon. One thing for sure....the Ukranians are giving the whole world a lesson in liberty.🤘🏻
Did you have the pieces painted or powder coated? All the Rusty's stuff on the website is black.
Rattle can. I find it difficult to spend money on powdercoat when I know it's gonna get scratched up. Just rough it up with a scotch brite pad, couple coats of primer, couple coats of the paint of your choice, and a couple coats of clear. That's what I did.👍🏻
@@ShockWaveOffroad Thanks brother. Love the videos. Applying these things to my Gladiator.
Does anyone know if these will fit a Jew gladiator with a 4 inch lift kit already installed?
Yes, it will work just fine. The size lift doesn't matter. What DOES matter is the backspace of your wheels. If you have 3.5"-4.5" of backspace (which is most common), the tie rod won't touch the tire. If you've got that much lift, I'd suggest doing the drag link flip while you're at it. Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻
I was curious, do you still like the Rusty's steering system? I just bought one for my JKU sport 2010 about 15 minutes ago. I hope you have good things to say.
LMAO!! Yup, still running it and the ends have not been replaced yet. Very happy with this set up. It's a bit heavy compared to aluminum, but that's the only downside. Make sure you periodically look at your jamb nuts on the tie rod, as they do sometimes back off a little. Rest easy, that isn't an issue with just this steering kit. It's actually a pretty common thing. Thanks for watching and the comment! 🤘🏻
Hi i needs to this for my jeep gladiator we're can I buy this
You can buy this at Rusty's Off Road. 👍🏻
Hello Sir. Are you still happy with your Rustys steering system?
Yes, I am. Ends are still in good shape and the tie rod hasn't bent even with a couple pretty hard hits on rocks. Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻
Thank you for the great install video. I have the same falcoln steering stabilizer that replaced the stock one and I was wondering how it bolted on.
Thanks!
One last question sir. Did you install the steel or aluminum Rustys kit
How have they been holding up?
So far, so good. Very pleased with the performance. I've had the front end apart a couple times in the last month, and the ends are still very tight.
How has this held up?
Extremely well! With MANY wheeling trips under it now, the ends have held up VERY well. No intent to change them out any time soon. The tie rod has taken some pretty good hits, and is still straight. My ONLY problem with this set up is weight. The drag link and tie rod are HEAVY. I mean, I expect that from high quality DOM tube. But, if I ever go another direction, it'll be to aluminum, and because of weight only. If you're considering a steel steering set up, I highly recommend this one. Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻
@@ShockWaveOffroad Thanks for the video and the reviews, just bought a JT and will be doing the Clayton lift with Falcons. Have the synergy brace and falcon steering stabilizer on the way to start.
Nice!! Clayton has been making GREAT stuff for years. You'll be very happy with the results. Glad you like the channel!!👍🏻
@@ShockWaveOffroad I noticed after talked rustys now has an aluminum setup out made out of 1.825 solid 7075. it doesn't list a weight for either the DOM or 7075 though and the 7075 is 69 dollars more for each piece.
@@JMSynthetics If they're using the same ends on the aluminum as the DOM, I'd go that route. The ends are really what you're in it for. The weight from the DOM adds to the stress on the ends. Aluminum will put less stress on them. For $140 more, I'd go aluminum.
Anyone who is serious about offroading is using shafts made out of 7075 aluminum. I don't care the material or thickness, if it's made out of steel it's going to bend. These don't look any better than the junk Synergy and Steer Smarts is selling.
Awesome dude, thanks for your opinion.
lmao, if you can't stay on schedule, ima have to unsubscribe to this channel sir.
crows foot will help torquing the pitman arm nut btw
good video bro, with any system, it really gonna boil down to the ends.... s far SS has been great for me, only issues I had when I flipped the steering to top knuckle and it started to rub into radiator lines and the frame. The clamps are bulky, but you can put a lot of torque on them...
synergy,,, strong as well,,, but I really need to make a video about them.... so many things to do,,, not enough time to do it lol
Crow's foot is something my toolbox doesn't contain. But, they're on the LONG list of items to add. Thanks for the support, bro. I appreciate it!👊🏻🤘🏻
Staying "on schedule".... really bro??🙄🙄🤷♂️🤷♂️🤣🤣🤣🤣
Project Napalm JL Lol I only follow pros bro
So it's definitely been awhile, how did the drag link and tie rod hold up??? Thanks bro, you always make great content.
Held up great! Still running it with no issues. Glad you like the channel. Thanks for watching and the question! 🤘🏻