before the jeep bashing... old mate literally says 'its an aftermarket part that broke, not a jeep part' regearing like that increases the torque multiplication in the diff
How to Break in a Ring and Pinion The suggested break-in procedure for a ring and pinion gear is as follows: - Drive 15 to 20 miles under normal driving conditions (no highway speeds), stop and let differential cool before proceeding, repeat this process 2-3 times - Avoid heavy accelerating during the break in process - Keep the vehicle under 60 MPH for the first 100 miles - Highway driving also requires proper break-in due to the higher heat temperatures produced, drive 15-20 minutes at max 65MPH, stop and let differential cool before proceeding, repeat this process 2-3 times - Driving on a new ring and pinion before the initial 500 mile oil change should be under normal driving conditions: no hard starts, racing, off-roading, towing, and should not be flat towed. - Change Gear Oil after the 500 mile break-in, this removes metal particles and phosphate coating from the gear set during the break-in period. - *Towing: After the 500 mile oil change, the first towing should be less than 15 miles, then let the differential cool before proceeding, Repeat this process 2-3 times
4.88's would be awesome with 37's 👌4.56's would also be a decent option. Z Automotive also make a locker sensor bypass, adapter to use factory locker switch with aftermarket air lockers and the Tazer plug in, which allows you to do all kinds of cool things. If you change ratios, also worth doing a transmission learning reset to speed it up learning the new shift points.
In the US. You can buy the locker sensor by it's self for just over $300.00 USD. The JT in the states have 2 different transfer cases. The standard part time case and the option full time case. The full time case has a clutch pack in it and been known to overheat and slip. One of the differences between the 2 transfer cases is. The full time has CV joints on the front axle shafts. The part time case has u joints instead.
Don't just rely on jeep dealerships. You will be amazed what aftermarket specialists will have. Hammond 4wd in Capalaba, Double Black in Victoria. At least you get the answers you need from people who have been there done that.
Good thing is, mopar makes a diff locker sensor delete harness to bypass the sensor inside the diff on the locker to engage it. You can buy it right from mopar and hook it up to an outfiter switch and have it be way more reliable. Also swaybar bypass can be made easy to just lock and unlock. I do agree, all the electronics are awesome, and a pain at the same time. Nothing that can’t be taken care of tho. Cheers boys 🤙🏻
Personally I reckon the electronic swaybar disconnect is a bit of a gimmick. I've got an Overland 2 door so no lockers or swaybar disconnect. But I got some Teraflex quick disconnect swaybar links that cost bugger all and take 30 seconds to disconnect, no tools required. I just do it while I'm airing down/up. The e-lockers would be nice but honestly I've yet to find an obstacle that the brake lock differential hasn't got me past, it's just not as smooth.
@@finchtoob yeah i’d agree. I now run the antirock swaybar since the motor was starting to act up. It’ll be fun to see if the Bronco one will last longer , maybe jeep can learn something there. Same as lockers, sure there is other better ways but for me, for here where rust and moisture and condensation is a huge part of life, e-locker is the way but we bypass the lock in sensor and have no issues after. I use my lockers all the time in deap snow and would not make it wothout! Other scenarios, sure i need them less you’re right the brake lock is actually brilliant! Works really darn well.
Calling for the time was still a thing in the early 90s too, im only 36 definitely remember dialing 😅 and noone had a fit over gluten and everyone ate 🍖 🥓
Justin from Patriots at the same issue with his red Jeep when he first got it which was whenever the gearbox and transfer case got hot it went into limp mode
Time for an Antirock sway bar for the front. Maybe that Supercharger is too much torque for the Dana 44HD axle. Most when they do an engine upgrade, they had to go to the Dana 60 axles, or for Hellcat and Demon one had to go Dana 60 front, Dana 80 rear with air lockers. If you change the front sway bar, you should add the Teraflex extended travel rear swaybar to get that swaybar up and out of harms way. And you get 16 inches of extra articulation on the rear axle. Also time to add one ton or 2 ton steering components, like Steer Smart. Most put Metal Cloak rear trackbar to make room underneath to store the 37 inch spare tire. A 2020 Gladiator Rubicon owner. You need skid plates, newest here in North America are the Next Venture Motor Sports, Aluminum belly skid plates with the UHMW plastic slider savers. If cost is a problem ASFIR 4x4 or Artec Industries, makes an economical belly aluminum skid plates. You need to heat breakin those differential gears for the first 500 miles, or you will get those diffs destroyed. You should call your Gladiator "The Destroyer"!
Wow, it sounds like you're really diving deep into off-road upgrades and modifications! Thanks for the heads-up about the importance of heat breaking in the differential gears - it's crucial for ensuring their longevity. "The Destroyer" sounds like a fitting name for a Jeep Gladiator equipped with all these upgrades! But, it's goona be running with the 'Reubencon' at the moment. Happy trails and safe off-roading adventures ahead! 🚙💨
Yeah 4.88's but 4.56's would be probably better choice. Front & Rear Dana SD60's direct from Dana USA would be Reuben proof plus the massive One Ton truck brakes & free wheeling 8stud hubs ❤🎉😂
O'Yeah replace both driveshafts with double cardens Tom Woods. Get a flash programmer too so ya can turn off the Canbus to the diffs, swaybar disconnect and program in your tyre size and ratio change
I am now understanding why it is that guys in the US simply throw away the 44's and put Dana 60's into these tonka trucks. Clearly the Gladiator is too heavy for 44's + big tyres+ supercharger. I think i will leave my jeep run without the supercharger as that amount of power is clearly too much for the stock Rubicon drivetrain when wheeling out in the bush. I need to know im coming home, not worrying about whether or not im going to be getting a tow truck.
The phone number to find out the time is 1194. And if you wanted on your phone at home for the landline to see who was the last phone call that you missed was ☆10#
Im didn’t realise Iveco amalgamate with Jeep.. parts and repairs sounds oddly similar. Hmm 🤔 Cheeky devils they are. Guess that’s where the money is…-15k for a T/C in the 16’ Iveco Daily 4x4…and the lube is “extra”
They might be capable off-road but I would never buy a Jeep for the fact that you can't buy just the parts you need, you have to buy complete assemblies and their pricing here is ridiculous.. Heard exactly this from Jeep owners. Just straight out revenue raising. Great to see you getting your children involved Reuben.
Meh, parts are available they just don't know the right people (first mistake is trying via Jeep AU direct). Normally deal with US shops who've delivered diff parts like pinion bearing replacement kits within a few days international. Similar to getting performance parts sent from Japan.
At least your mechanic and you are open to learning about the Jeeps. Do your research on US YT channels, workshops etc. They know how to modify and maintain these Jeeps "right". US stores are easy to deal with too, most will freight within 7days to Aust. And won't give you the old "buy the whole axle or transfer case" reply. You just can't work on these with the old "Landcruiser or Patrol" approach. You can get a Tazer or other plug in devices to adjust the factory computer for diff ratios and tyre sizes and a host of other things.
50years ago Jeeps were Awesome. Today they are absolute Junk. Hands Down Worst built 4x4. They trade on their name, quality is out the window. Having said that, Rubin breaks everything 🤦♂️🤣
before the jeep bashing... old mate literally says 'its an aftermarket part that broke, not a jeep part'
regearing like that increases the torque multiplication in the diff
How to Break in a Ring and Pinion
The suggested break-in procedure for a ring and pinion gear is as follows:
- Drive 15 to 20 miles under normal driving conditions (no highway speeds), stop and let differential cool before proceeding, repeat this process 2-3 times
- Avoid heavy accelerating during the break in process
- Keep the vehicle under 60 MPH for the first 100 miles
- Highway driving also requires proper break-in due to the higher heat temperatures produced, drive 15-20 minutes at max 65MPH, stop and let differential cool before proceeding, repeat this process 2-3 times
- Driving on a new ring and pinion before the initial 500 mile oil change should be under normal driving conditions: no hard starts, racing, off-roading, towing, and should not be flat towed.
- Change Gear Oil after the 500 mile break-in, this removes metal particles and phosphate coating from the gear set during the break-in period.
- *Towing: After the 500 mile oil change, the first towing should be less than 15 miles, then let the differential cool before proceeding, Repeat this process 2-3 times
run factory 4.56 gears if they hold up behind a 392 hemi they should hold up to ruebens panic revs at least more than once.
4.88's would be awesome with 37's 👌4.56's would also be a decent option.
Z Automotive also make a locker sensor bypass, adapter to use factory locker switch with aftermarket air lockers and the Tazer plug in, which allows you to do all kinds of cool things.
If you change ratios, also worth doing a transmission learning reset to speed it up learning the new shift points.
In the US. You can buy the locker sensor by it's self for just over $300.00 USD.
The JT in the states have 2 different transfer cases. The standard part time case and the option full time case. The full time case has a clutch pack in it and been known to overheat and slip. One of the differences between the 2 transfer cases is. The full time has CV joints on the front axle shafts. The part time case has u joints instead.
Must be hard on the gear! People wheel these things in the states doing way tougher stuff and don't break them.
They break em
correct usa have lsa swapped wranglers on 42s and dont break them
Don't just rely on jeep dealerships. You will be amazed what aftermarket specialists will have. Hammond 4wd in Capalaba, Double Black in Victoria. At least you get the answers you need from people who have been there done that.
Thanks @terrybailey4039
Good thing is, mopar makes a diff locker sensor delete harness to bypass the sensor inside the diff on the locker to engage it.
You can buy it right from mopar and hook it up to an outfiter switch and have it be way more reliable.
Also swaybar bypass can be made easy to just lock and unlock.
I do agree, all the electronics are awesome, and a pain at the same time.
Nothing that can’t be taken care of tho.
Cheers boys 🤙🏻
Personally I reckon the electronic swaybar disconnect is a bit of a gimmick. I've got an Overland 2 door so no lockers or swaybar disconnect. But I got some Teraflex quick disconnect swaybar links that cost bugger all and take 30 seconds to disconnect, no tools required. I just do it while I'm airing down/up. The e-lockers would be nice but honestly I've yet to find an obstacle that the brake lock differential hasn't got me past, it's just not as smooth.
@@finchtoob yeah i’d agree.
I now run the antirock swaybar since the motor was starting to act up.
It’ll be fun to see if the Bronco one will last longer , maybe jeep can learn something there.
Same as lockers, sure there is other better ways but for me, for here where rust and moisture and condensation is a huge part of life, e-locker is the way but we bypass the lock in sensor and have no issues after.
I use my lockers all the time in deap
snow and would not make it wothout!
Other scenarios, sure i need them less you’re right the brake lock is actually brilliant! Works really darn well.
I used Yukon 4.88 gears in my jeep and they never failed
Great to see ya teaching the kids Ruben
You certainly are good at breaking your cars Ruben!!!😂😂😂 cheers for another great episode mate 👍
Calling for the time was still a thing in the early 90s too, im only 36 definitely remember dialing 😅 and noone had a fit over gluten and everyone ate 🍖 🥓
well...supercharge the donk, put on balloon tyres....any wonder the bits in the middle failed!
Just like a Ruben thing to do....awesome 🙂
Justin from Patriots at the same issue with his red Jeep when he first got it which was whenever the gearbox and transfer case got hot it went into limp mode
Time for an Antirock sway bar for the front. Maybe that Supercharger is too much torque for the Dana 44HD axle. Most when they do an engine upgrade, they had to go to the Dana 60 axles, or for Hellcat and Demon one had to go Dana 60 front, Dana 80 rear with air lockers. If you change the front sway bar, you should add the Teraflex extended travel rear swaybar to get that swaybar up and out of harms way. And you get 16 inches of extra articulation on the rear axle. Also time to add one ton or 2 ton steering components, like Steer Smart. Most put Metal Cloak rear trackbar to make room underneath to store the 37 inch spare tire. A 2020 Gladiator Rubicon owner. You need skid plates, newest here in North America are the Next Venture Motor Sports, Aluminum belly skid plates with the UHMW plastic slider savers. If cost is a problem ASFIR 4x4 or Artec Industries, makes an economical belly aluminum skid plates. You need to heat breakin those differential gears for the first 500 miles, or you will get those diffs destroyed. You should call your Gladiator "The Destroyer"!
Wow, it sounds like you're really diving deep into off-road upgrades and modifications! Thanks for the heads-up about the importance of heat breaking in the differential gears - it's crucial for ensuring their longevity. "The Destroyer" sounds like a fitting name for a Jeep Gladiator equipped with all these upgrades! But, it's goona be running with the 'Reubencon' at the moment. Happy trails and safe off-roading adventures ahead! 🚙💨
DStrac axle from Superior Engineering if run 37s even up to 40.
I think the number for getting the time was 1194 in Victoria
awesome Reuben, what i say to myself is , you got to pay to play, just run the card through🤙
I run 4.56 minutes in my jeep I found it. It’s the best compromise between strength and drivability. And
I have 4.56 gears with 37s and it’s fine.
1194 used to be the number you dialled for the time.....
Great Ep Guys . 1149 for the time,
I remember calling the number for time.
Toyota only offer 4.30 diff gear on Tundra for towing purpose. They probably know something that we don't about going larger in size.
Yeah 4.88's but 4.56's would be probably better choice.
Front & Rear Dana SD60's direct from Dana USA would be Reuben proof plus the massive One Ton truck brakes & free wheeling 8stud hubs ❤🎉😂
O'Yeah replace both driveshafts with double cardens Tom Woods. Get a flash programmer too so ya can turn off the Canbus to the diffs, swaybar disconnect and program in your tyre size and ratio change
I am now understanding why it is that guys in the US simply throw away the 44's and put Dana 60's into these tonka trucks. Clearly the Gladiator is too heavy for 44's + big tyres+ supercharger.
I think i will leave my jeep run without the supercharger as that amount of power is clearly too much for the stock Rubicon drivetrain when wheeling out in the bush. I need to know im coming home, not worrying about whether or not im going to be getting a tow truck.
Get an OX locker like Do it in the dirt
If you dont locktite the bolts on the ring gear they’ll come loose and lunch the diff again… 👍
Thanks @timbeevornation
Reuben needs a series 1 landrover that will pull him up
You should be driving the patrol y62
His cars are always coming home on the back of a truck! Can he drive a 4WD?
all the gear no idea
Rueben try and get an old 1418 Benz just take it back to stock and then try and break it, maybe the only vehicle that you haven’t broken.
Ruben please get rid of the elocker and air locker and go trutrac I did the change and I have never had another problem
The phone number to find out the time is 1194.
And if you wanted on your phone at home for the landline to see who was the last phone call that you missed was ☆10#
If a normal person drove it instead of a mug lair then probs no breakages
1194
I think a lot of all the damage is because the 37s
ARB the dam thing
Im didn’t realise Iveco amalgamate with Jeep.. parts and repairs sounds oddly similar. Hmm 🤔
Cheeky devils they are. Guess that’s where the money is…-15k for a T/C in the 16’ Iveco Daily 4x4…and the lube is “extra”
Dial 1194. Lol
They might be capable off-road but I would never buy a Jeep for the fact that you can't buy just the parts you need, you have to buy complete assemblies and their pricing here is ridiculous.. Heard exactly this from Jeep owners. Just straight out revenue raising.
Great to see you getting your children involved Reuben.
you can generally buy every single part for jeeps down to the last nut and bolt. the issue at the moment is supply shortages on new models.
Meh, parts are available they just don't know the right people (first mistake is trying via Jeep AU direct).
Normally deal with US shops who've delivered diff parts like pinion bearing replacement kits within a few days international. Similar to getting performance parts sent from Japan.
Don't buy parts from jeep.. plenty of other companies in Aus selling them
Phone 1194
How bad is it... it's a Jeep bro 😂
In the first minute, he literally said it was because of the choice of aftermarket mods, not because it's a Jeep.
Yeah I heard that too... But it's still a Jeep 😁
You can put aftermarket mods on a land rover, but it's still a range rover.
I guess I'm trying to say polishing up a Jeep with aftermarket parts is like trying to polished a turd...
Jeep life mate, get used to it.😂
reuben has no mechanical sympathy lol
At least your mechanic and you are open to learning about the Jeeps.
Do your research on US YT channels, workshops etc. They know how to modify and maintain these Jeeps "right".
US stores are easy to deal with too, most will freight within 7days to Aust. And won't give you the old "buy the whole axle or transfer case" reply.
You just can't work on these with the old "Landcruiser or Patrol" approach.
You can get a Tazer or other plug in devices to adjust the factory computer for diff ratios and tyre sizes and a host of other things.
Reuben stop farting around cobber and portal the dog
JEEP, just empty every pocket.
You called Jeep!? 😂😂😂
Amatuers call Jeep.
Jump online mate… I could any of those parts shipped this week 😂
Good on ya, mate! :)
Creepy bloke constantly having arm round daughter
50years ago Jeeps were Awesome. Today they are absolute Junk. Hands Down Worst built 4x4. They trade on their name, quality is out the window.
Having said that, Rubin breaks everything 🤦♂️🤣
"We've got a Jeep that's broken"
Yeah, you've got a Jeep. It's a given that it's broken... it doesn't need to be said.
Especially Export Wrangler and Gladiators. Different transfer case, axles.
Yep, never buy a jeep