Oh ok I never knew that. I doubt out tho that it doesn't matter because even if your holding the battery together with 2 metal poles with bare hands it still won't hurt you. Its to do with volts or something like that
As SA said: Take the neg off first and on last. This will reduce the possibility of short-circuiting either the old or the new batteries. Nice vid, tnx.
Ohhh ok yeah I was never sure which order to do them thanks for the tip. Also if neg is off first doesn't that mean it's still live because pos is still connected so isn't there a risk of getting shocked
@@Fizzy.g There's no risk of getting shocked from a 12v car battery. It's advised negative off first and on last to avoid short circuit (like a spanner touching other metal parts while removing battery terminals) because cars are negative earth.
Thanks mate, followed your advice and swapped the battery out. One thing I'd recommend is a long hatchet stem bit (don't know the correct terminology, lol) as the battery fastener can be a bit awkward to get to. Thanks again.
Do you not need to code this in? I've bought a battery but I've read this needs to be coded through the diagnostics which is another £30 on top of the battery itself to get it done. Is it necessary?
@@Fizzy.g nice one man. I've read that the ECU learns the batteries behavior and it can cause over charging (I have stop start) and it can prematurely screw up the battery. That's The reason I asked.
What battery did you get? All the ones I'm seeing arent exactly same size? They all seem bigger. Mines original battery so wanted it to be same to be an easy swap as first time changing battery
Another tip I learned, this is if you need to jump start the car, put all the electrics into the on position. Such as lights, heater blowers, hazards etc This will prevent possible current overload, which leads to all the warming lights coming on the dash. By placing load onto the battery when you jump start it.
yeah I'm not sure why but when its been off for a few days it have a weird start for about 10 seconds and then goes normal to a cold starts sound. since I changed the oil and spark plugs it has improved a lot now it rarely makes that sound and if it does its for a second or 2 so I think it just needed a good service but I'm thinking of getting the timing chain done soon
Going by the loud rattling noise your car must be super low on engine oil. Forget about the cold start. I have a 1.4 TSI CAXA and it’s not even half as loud. That’s why people should never buy cars of roadmen like you. Also fitting a cheaper battery as a replacement but still buying premium brand cars. SMH
And this battery ain't the cheapest battery I checked up on reviews it's a better than average battery so it's not shit and I'm not paying for an unnecessarily expensive batter just for the brand name
Why watch the vid that actually helped u then complain if u had an actual point fair enough but u didn't check the channel see what's been done then complain once you've done ur research
Thanks for this. I’m not an engine head by any means and this was super easy to follow.
Thanks. If you ever do get stuck just comment and I'll reply asap
Disconnect negative terminal first, and re-connect it last.
Oh ok I never knew that. I doubt out tho that it doesn't matter because even if your holding the battery together with 2 metal poles with bare hands it still won't hurt you. Its to do with volts or something like that
As SA said: Take the neg off first and on last. This will reduce the possibility of short-circuiting either the old or the new batteries. Nice vid, tnx.
Ohhh ok yeah I was never sure which order to do them thanks for the tip. Also if neg is off first doesn't that mean it's still live because pos is still connected so isn't there a risk of getting shocked
@@Fizzy.g There's no risk of getting shocked from a 12v car battery. It's advised negative off first and on last to avoid short circuit (like a spanner touching other metal parts while removing battery terminals) because cars are negative earth.
9@@Fizzy.g
Thanks mate, followed your advice and swapped the battery out. One thing I'd recommend is a long hatchet stem bit (don't know the correct terminology, lol) as the battery fastener can be a bit awkward to get to. Thanks again.
Yeah having an extension bit would help
Bro love the series , you're doing almost everything i want to do with mine, so super helpful
Thanks bro it means alot. I got alot more coming for the car aswell. This is just the start 😂💯💯
@@Fizzy.g looking forward to it bro !
Is it a start/stop model and did you get any error codes if it was? Can I change it without a diagnostic tool?
It's not a start/stop model. And yes you don't need a diagnostic tool you just need to pull the old battery out and put the new one in
Do you not need to code this in? I've bought a battery but I've read this needs to be coded through the diagnostics which is another £30 on top of the battery itself to get it done. Is it necessary?
No you don't need to code a battery into a car you just put it in and it'll work straight away
@@Fizzy.g nice one man. I've read that the ECU learns the batteries behavior and it can cause over charging (I have stop start) and it can prematurely screw up the battery. That's The reason I asked.
Ahh if you have stop start then yeah it might need doing but aslong as you buy a batter that's compatible with stop start then I think it should be ok
@@Fizzy.g Top man. nice one
Really helpful, thanks for the video!
💯💯
What battery did you get? All the ones I'm seeing arent exactly same size? They all seem bigger. Mines original battery so wanted it to be same to be an easy swap as first time changing battery
There's a link for one in the description it's the same size
Would doing this fix the start stop?
I'm not sure what you mean by that?
I think he asks if battery change will fix start/stop system when its not.working on dead battery
Another tip I learned, this is if you need to jump start the car, put all the electrics into the on position.
Such as lights, heater blowers, hazards etc
This will prevent possible current overload, which leads to all the warming lights coming on the dash.
By placing load onto the battery when you jump start it.
Oh I never knew that. Wouldn't that then make it harder to start as it's pulling more current
@@Fizzy.g no as you jump starting direct to the battery
Yeah but then when turning the car on its pulling all of the power from the battery
Do you also need to code it?
Naa not coding needed bro just straight switch
That engine sounds a bit pinky :)
yeah I'm not sure why but when its been off for a few days it have a weird start for about 10 seconds and then goes normal to a cold starts sound. since I changed the oil and spark plugs it has improved a lot now it rarely makes that sound and if it does its for a second or 2 so I think it just needed a good service but I'm thinking of getting the timing chain done soon
Going by the loud rattling noise your car must be super low on engine oil. Forget about the cold start. I have a 1.4 TSI CAXA and it’s not even half as loud. That’s why people should never buy cars of roadmen like you. Also fitting a cheaper battery as a replacement but still buying premium brand cars. SMH
Thanks for the instructions though it was super useful. You’re a wasteman still for turning cars into chav mobiles.
Are u stupid is there nothing in that head of yours I did the oil change the day after with 5w 40 Castrol edge yh what was that u idiot
And this battery ain't the cheapest battery I checked up on reviews it's a better than average battery so it's not shit and I'm not paying for an unnecessarily expensive batter just for the brand name
Why watch the vid that actually helped u then complain if u had an actual point fair enough but u didn't check the channel see what's been done then complain once you've done ur research
@@Dmxravin ur an idiot look at his vids he did the oil not long after and even the spark plugs he's just slowly getting the car back to normal