THANK YOU VERY MUCH! I did this nearly 3 months ago now. Laying on my back, in the cold, and sometimes in the rain, of early April of a Canadian spring, I gave myself 3 days to do it if I really struggled. Soon, I was frustrated and discouraged and felt like I had bit off more than I could chew. But if I didn't finish this job it was just going to be towed to the recycle yard and I could no more afford that and have to replace this van right now than I could afford to pay someone else to do it. Eventually, I was able to solve the puzzle (a stubby open ended wrench was one of the keys) and I got it done. On day 5!!! When the rack problem was solved, I also replaced the strut on the drivers side (broken spring) and both outer tie rods since I had them all apart and they are so cheap. The only thing I paid someone else to do was the final alignment.l I've driven over 6,000 kilometres since the repair and haven't had to add a single drop of power steering fluid since the day I started driving it again. It does make a whirring sound as if it is low on fluid, but my mechanic friend said that sometimes that is caused by the canister and I should look into replacing that. Something about a micro-filtre that slows down the flow of the fluid in the system. Other than that, the car seems to be running fine, and I'll be happy if I can get just this one more season out of this beast! Thanks again. I could not, and would not, have done this repair without the benefit of your video!
Had a power steering leak on my 06 Caravan. My mechanic quoted big bucks to change out the rack but suggested 'Lucas Power Steering Leak Stop' as a possible alternative. Suctioned about half the fluid in the reservoir and replaced it with Lucas. The leak stopped and the steering was as smooth as ever. That was 2 years ago. Last month the power steering fluid cooler was punctured and I had it replaced with a small auto transmission cooler. Much cheaper. However the old leak came back. Again replaced half the fluid in the reservoir with Lucas and the leak stopped. If I had to change the rack myself I would use this video. Great point by point instructions and nice camera work.
I did the same as in your video, but it's a very BIG job. It took me a week to figure how to get the crossmember down so I can replace the steering rack.
Good grief this was a difficult job!! I’m lucky my fluid lines weren’t that tight( maybe why it was leaking). I used a crows foot to tighten them back, but such limited access. Definitely wouldn’t do this again, only did it this time cuz my wife adores the van for some reason.
Removed rack by slipping it through center hole of support plate. Didn't take any bolts off plate. Remove 3 nut/bolts, fluid lines from rack then slide it to passenger side until drivers side tie rod end can be dropped into center hole and turn rack so it can be pulled out towards drivers side. I took out battery, cruise control unit and filters(2) under drivers seat for access to fluid lines. There are lines in the way that need to be moved a little but you'll see that. Not sure why people remove plate
Just a about to do this job on my 2001 T&C, problem is there is a small amount of play on the rack pinion shaft on the driver side, this causes a small thump when driving over road imperfections. It can also be felt when playing the wheel back and forth, before I spend the money on a new rack (reman) I'd like to know if this rack can be adjusted. I know there are some racks that can be adjusted at the bolt close to the input shaft. I'll bite the bullet if I need to but hoping I wont have to. Thanks P.S your video is one of the best ones I've seen so far.
I'm not sure if it's adjustable other than the standard alignment adjustments that can be made but if there is excessive play in the shaft I'd probably take a look at the inner tie rod and replace if needed. I'm sure it's a lot cheaper than the whole assembly that's for sure. All you can do is take it apart to find out. Thanks for the nice comment about my video. If you have any other questions please feel free to ask.
There is supposed to be a tiny bit of play in the rack itself. If you're sure it's the rack then a reman one is probably the way to go. Just gotta take it apart and find out.
Great video! How in the world did you get those hoses disconnected and reconnected to the rack so easily? Mine were extremely difficult to remove and have been impossible to hook back up!
Any advice on the lower fluid line? I don't have a stubby wrench but would that help? i can get a wrench on but its right on the frame where i can't move it at all. I can tighten it a hair and loosen it the same hair.
Yeah I'd try any different length of wrench you can find. I had to screw around with it for a bit for sure. If it's a real short wrench you're hoping to use I'd use 2 wrenches together for some extra leverage maybe if there's enough room.
That model series ended in 2007 so it will be a bit different but relatively the same principles. There will be a pan to drop and you may need to drop the subframe on those models. Also I'm not sure but it may be possible that you have electronic power steering in your newer van
Hey, great video--good perspective and tips. Question though--I recently had someone replace the steering rack in my '06 Town & Country, and now the steering has what feels like a 1-2" "dead spot" in the center. Very noticeable when driving straight down a highway, you can move the steering wheel an inch in each direction with no input to the steering. When turning, this slack isn't noticeable. Any likely culprits I should look at first?
Could be a few things.. I'd start with an alignment and or tie rod ends. If that's not the culprit then I'd look into what was done installing the new rack.
Thanks for the reply! An alignment was performed after the new rack was put in, but tie rod ends is a possibility--there's 150k miles on the car. Weird that I didn't notice an issue before the rack replacement, though. I'll speak to my mechanic.
Yeah I really can see it being anything else unless of course the rack itself has too much play.. It shouldn't but factory defects do happen. If your mechanic has an alignment machine I'd imagine he's more than able to diagnose a bad tie rod end(s).. So with that being said there's not too much else other than the steering box or linkage to explain the extra play in the steering wheel.
After a thorough inspection by my shop, they said everything looks in great shape and they can't find the source of the play. They re-aligned the car and there seems to be *slight* improvement, but the issue still persists. They asked me to drive the car for a few days to see if I could live with it, but if not they would warranty the rack and replace it. I hate to make the shop have to do all that work over again, but the van handles like crap on the highway.
Removed rack by slipping it through center hole of support plate. Didn't take any bolts off plate. Remove 3 nut/bolts, fluid lines from rack then slide it to passenger side until drivers side tie rod end can be dropped into center hole and turn rack so it can be pulled out towards drivers side. I took out battery, cruise control unit and filters(2) under drivers seat for access to fluid lines. There are lines in the way that need to be moved a little but you'll see that. Not sure why people remove plate.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
I did this nearly 3 months ago now. Laying on my back, in the cold, and sometimes in the rain, of early April of a Canadian spring, I gave myself 3 days to do it if I really struggled. Soon, I was frustrated and discouraged and felt like I had bit off more than I could chew. But if I didn't finish this job it was just going to be towed to the recycle yard and I could no more afford that and have to replace this van right now than I could afford to pay someone else to do it.
Eventually, I was able to solve the puzzle (a stubby open ended wrench was one of the keys) and I got it done. On day 5!!! When the rack problem was solved, I also replaced the strut on the drivers side (broken spring) and both outer tie rods since I had them all apart and they are so cheap. The only thing I paid someone else to do was the final alignment.l
I've driven over 6,000 kilometres since the repair and haven't had to add a single drop of power steering fluid since the day I started driving it again. It does make a whirring sound as if it is low on fluid, but my mechanic friend said that sometimes that is caused by the canister and I should look into replacing that. Something about a micro-filtre that slows down the flow of the fluid in the system.
Other than that, the car seems to be running fine, and I'll be happy if I can get just this one more season out of this beast!
Thanks again. I could not, and would not, have done this repair without the benefit of your video!
i guess I am quite off topic but do anyone know a good place to stream newly released series online?
Had a power steering leak on my 06 Caravan. My mechanic quoted big bucks to change out the rack but suggested 'Lucas Power Steering Leak Stop' as a possible alternative. Suctioned about half the fluid in the reservoir and replaced it with Lucas. The leak stopped and the steering was as smooth as ever. That was 2 years ago. Last month the power steering fluid cooler was punctured and I had it replaced with a small auto transmission cooler. Much cheaper. However the old leak came back. Again replaced half the fluid in the reservoir with Lucas and the leak stopped. If I had to change the rack myself I would use this video. Great point by point instructions and nice camera work.
Thanks for posting . 2005 Here . Gives Me an idea of whats ahead if I do a DIY replace .
I did the same as in your video, but it's a very BIG job. It took me a week to figure how to get the crossmember down so I can replace the steering rack.
Good vid. By using a crow's foot, extension, and palm wrachet, for the fluid lines can save you some time and a few curse word's. 🤠
Dude!! You just saved me a ton of time and headache! Thank you so much!
I did today on a 2006, but remove the lines is the worst part, good vid
Good grief this was a difficult job!! I’m lucky my fluid lines weren’t that tight( maybe why it was leaking). I used a crows foot to tighten them back, but such limited access. Definitely wouldn’t do this again, only did it this time cuz my wife adores the van for some reason.
Removed rack by slipping it through center hole of support plate. Didn't take any bolts off plate. Remove 3 nut/bolts, fluid lines from rack then slide it to passenger side until drivers side tie rod end can be dropped into center hole and turn rack so it can be pulled out towards drivers side. I took out battery, cruise control unit and filters(2) under drivers seat for access to fluid lines. There are lines in the way that need to be moved a little but you'll see that. Not sure why people remove plate
this is for a 04 grand caravan? was having trouble gettin a wrench on the pressure hose leading to the rack on my 04 caravan
Just a about to do this job on my 2001 T&C, problem is there is a small amount of play on the rack pinion shaft on the driver side, this causes a small thump when driving over road imperfections. It can also be felt when playing the wheel back and forth, before I spend the money on a new rack (reman) I'd like to know if this rack can be adjusted. I know there are some racks that can be adjusted at the bolt close to the input shaft. I'll bite the bullet if I need to but hoping I wont have to. Thanks
P.S your video is one of the best ones I've seen so far.
I'm not sure if it's adjustable other than the standard alignment adjustments that can be made but if there is excessive play in the shaft I'd probably take a look at the inner tie rod and replace if needed. I'm sure it's a lot cheaper than the whole assembly that's for sure. All you can do is take it apart to find out. Thanks for the nice comment about my video. If you have any other questions please feel free to ask.
There is supposed to be a tiny bit of play in the rack itself. If you're sure it's the rack then a reman one is probably the way to go. Just gotta take it apart and find out.
I did this job yesterday. I didn’t remove that bottom frame out. It wasn’t a bad job and I don’t have a lift.
Great video! How in the world did you get those hoses disconnected and reconnected to the rack so easily? Mine were extremely difficult to remove and have been impossible to hook back up!
It wasn't easy at all.. it takes time and a stubby wrench helps too. Took me a couple hours to find the right wrench and position that worked
Right on. Thanks for vid
Thats not fair using a nice lift LOL ,great video , sounding like a Canuck :)
Any advice on the lower fluid line? I don't have a stubby wrench but would that help? i can get a wrench on but its right on the frame where i can't move it at all. I can tighten it a hair and loosen it the same hair.
Yeah I'd try any different length of wrench you can find. I had to screw around with it for a bit for sure. If it's a real short wrench you're hoping to use I'd use 2 wrenches together for some extra leverage maybe if there's enough room.
Thanks, I got it with a Crows foot flare wrench. I've lost the roll pin somewhere but at least i've got the part out.
Is there much of a difference between this model and an 09 grand caravan?
That model series ended in 2007 so it will be a bit different but relatively the same principles. There will be a pan to drop and you may need to drop the subframe on those models. Also I'm not sure but it may be possible that you have electronic power steering in your newer van
Hey, great video--good perspective and tips. Question though--I recently had someone replace the steering rack in my '06 Town & Country, and now the steering has what feels like a 1-2" "dead spot" in the center. Very noticeable when driving straight down a highway, you can move the steering wheel an inch in each direction with no input to the steering. When turning, this slack isn't noticeable. Any likely culprits I should look at first?
Could be a few things.. I'd start with an alignment and or tie rod ends. If that's not the culprit then I'd look into what was done installing the new rack.
Thanks for the reply! An alignment was performed after the new rack was put in, but tie rod ends is a possibility--there's 150k miles on the car. Weird that I didn't notice an issue before the rack replacement, though. I'll speak to my mechanic.
Yeah I really can see it being anything else unless of course the rack itself has too much play.. It shouldn't but factory defects do happen. If your mechanic has an alignment machine I'd imagine he's more than able to diagnose a bad tie rod end(s).. So with that being said there's not too much else other than the steering box or linkage to explain the extra play in the steering wheel.
After a thorough inspection by my shop, they said everything looks in great shape and they can't find the source of the play. They re-aligned the car and there seems to be *slight* improvement, but the issue still persists. They asked me to drive the car for a few days to see if I could live with it, but if not they would warranty the rack and replace it. I hate to make the shop have to do all that work over again, but the van handles like crap on the highway.
Yup it happens.. Factory defects.
Should be the same.. Model year changed in '08. If your stuck on it send a picture
Having a hard time reattaching the rack and piñon back into the steering shaft. It wobbles all over the place when I try to put it back together.
Mount it to the subframe first loosely then giver a go.
It's a pain in the butt with my van. The rack and piñon has a bolt under and a nut on top and I can't reach the rear side Nut.
What kind of van?
Dr.GreenWrench 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3
Thank you should make job easier.
The other guy locked stearing wheel in down poisitiion.
Umm .....ughhh. thanks for the vid
Hi
Well, that was miserable. Dodge, WHY???
Removed rack by slipping it through center hole of support plate. Didn't take any bolts off plate. Remove 3 nut/bolts, fluid lines from rack then slide it to passenger side until drivers side tie rod end can be dropped into center hole and turn rack so it can be pulled out towards drivers side. I took out battery, cruise control unit and filters(2) under drivers seat for access to fluid lines. There are lines in the way that need to be moved a little but you'll see that. Not sure why people remove plate.
I already tried that and unfortunately, I had to remove the crossmember. It took me nearly a week to figure out how to get it down.