i know Im asking the wrong place but does someone know of a way to log back into an instagram account..? I somehow lost my password. I would appreciate any help you can give me!
Without doubt the best brand of sealant I've used is Dow Corning. Any of its range which is huge in application type and colour. Soon as you pick a tube up you can feel the weight of it. I've been using it for over 30 years & most installations are as good now as they were when they were originally fit.
Thanks Rodg. Would be great to have a vid on windows. What's under the internal sill. Why have an external sill. How is the cavity covered. How to best insulate around them internally. Etc
Thanks for the video. Some really useful information. This is what I've found with stuff over the years. Hybrid polymers yellow over time especially if bleach is used on them . Stick with silicone around baths/sinks. Caulk for skirting/architraves and hybrid polymers for external and places that you won't see.
The best thing about caulk is that it shrinks, I love that, pulls things tight as it dries, doesn't just fill the gap in a skirting but pulls it flat too
I use silicone to stick tiles , It’s cleaner and so much easier, even tiles on tiles , the first time I did this was fifteen years ago and still there 👍
Funny, I was in screwfix other day thinking what's difference between silicone? One of my pet hates is when you see wrong product used around arcs and skirts like grip fill which has shrunk and peeled. Also silicone around baths that looks like a pissed up slug has been trying to find it's way to the Garden Great upload
Thanks to you tube for putting you in my feed, Subscribed, in the building trade as a decorator for 40 year's and you have confirmed my suspicions about products and where to spend and where to not. Thanks for the science.
I maintain an old Victorian building and have done for about 20yrs and I’ve used SX lead pointing sealant on some of the cracks in various places on the masonry and found after all that time the sealant is still in good shape. I’ve used other lead pointing sealants and they’ve been rubbish.
Very informative. I never knew what neutral curing was. One thing I don't like about silicone sealant is that you cannot paint over it. Thank you very much.
A few years back I used CT1 in the old water tank(not for drinking, garden water), sealed hole with all water in it, worked like a treat, mint!!! Just please use gloves!
Brilliant Roger, finally a guide from someone who knows what they’re talking about on the different silicones out there. Funnily enough I tried Dow Corning 785N neutral cure in a shower last year and 12 months later it was black with mould. Never had that problem with standard 785 acetoxy, perhaps it was a duff tube. And in all my years on the tools I can say I’ve turned my back on gripfill now, more hassle than it’s worth, I find the stuff unusable for most jobs as it skins so fast, as you say you have to work it and pull it off then reattach. Not ideal, especially when fixing long lengths of skirting
@@alann8117 Pinkgrip is has great grab, but also skins very quickly. I found the solvent free (yellow tube) Gripfill to be good... it seems to set rock solid and gives a good amount of time without skinning.
@@edwardholmes91 cheers mate. Yeah punk grip is also skinning quickly. But a little slower than grip fill. I'll give the solvent free stuff a go. Cheers.
Thanks K. We care about good English on this channel and it is hard to resist giving a few pointer in some of the comments. Some of the best English I see is from foreigners.
I really like the dowsil sanitary sealant for sinks and bathrooms it's lasted white the longest so far from the ones I've used and it's not too expensive, about £4-£6 in Screwfix and for windows Allanson's aro seal is great, I've used it quite a bit where I work, but it's a right pain to use due to its viscosity but I can't find a standard public supplier only industrial.
Great video Roger. In the hybrid polymers I have used Soudal Fix All. That seems to stick to anything and the high tack version has a very good initial grab.
@@SkillBuilder I think you can still edit the description text after you have published the vid. Bang it in there if you want to relieve your guilt. Plus its cheaper than the CT1.
Great video Roger, but I must take issue with you regarding High/Low modulus sealant. Your description is quite correct - High Modulus sealant will form a stiff bead whereas Low Modulus will form a flexible bead. The important consideration is the relative strength of the bond onto the substrate and the amount of anticipated movement. Partial de-bonding as you described helps if the substrate bond is strong but if it is weak then only low modulus sealants are going to survive. If you look at concrete structures you can see movement joints which will have been sealed with high modulus sealants and, typically, either the substrate bond will have failed (and just pulled away) or the substrate bond is so strong (because it was properly prepared) and the surface of the concrete has been pulled off. A failure in either case.. Fortunately the good manufacturers provide advice on joint design which is worth following. Also, if they say you need a primer - you will need a surface primer to ensure good adhesion.
@@SkillBuilder Roger, in connection with concrete substrate. In relation to bituminous roof products, like 'Parlon' sheeting etc. So like to drill holes for various attachments. And fill around after, using silicon tubes and things. You can quiz they guys who do the bituminous based roofing products on this. They have their own bituminous based mastic products. For this purpose.
Electrical trades, roof based air handling, air con, mechanical trades. When one puts silicone based mastics and things. To 'seal' the penetration around bituminous based roofs. The two will react, and you end up doing. More harm than good. I'd put this in with that same point. On the concrete substrates.
Metal workers too. Have to go on roofs. Make handrail systems and all kinds of things. Drill holes through vertical parapets made of concrete. To which bituminous (or other roofing systems have been applied as upstands around roof edges). I've spent weeks up on roofs. Moving packaged air handling units around. And this is something, that really deserves it's own 'health warning' video. On it's own. What is the roof made of? Synthetic (chemical welded seams, where one can buy specific patch kits, and things to make penetrations and seals). Whereas bitumin is different. It's an ancient, natural type product. Which works a lot different to synthetic versions. In terms of roofs.
Bitumin is a good system, if you have a good contractor. But even that guy can't prevent the spark, or the air con tech or whoever comes along after. With a drill and a tube of stuff. Where they don't even know difference between natural bituminous or man made roofing materials. I'd imagine too. The point about low modulus products on concrete substrate. Is relevant to that situation in question. Where it is a penetration through a Parlon roof product. Sheet metal trades, who go over parapets with coping metal flashings. At the top of their glazing and cladding systems. At roof level. Regularly don't understand this either. And drill down vertically. At the top of parapet walls. To make anchor screws for brackets or straps. To which the pressed sheet metal copings. Will clip themselves on to. Is another place where guys use silicon on bituminous finished concrete on roofs. Where a long life, flexible seal using a bituminous roof sealant tube. Is what is needed in the hole. When putting in those anchor bolts.
Thanks for this. The Stuff In Tubes market is something of a minefield. Would be good to see a part 2 that covers construction adhesives and specialist applications
They're happy to fill their shelves with this stuff but can't be arsed explaining them..always annoys me when you want just the right product for that job you've devoted so much time to. Many thanks.
Great video Rodger really useful. You forgot to mention the strongest adhesive for ceramics which is of course a ratio mix 2:1, Weetabix and milk. 😀 Any views on these new style sealant guns "Saker tool" that pull the tube backwards against a fixed piston as opposed to traditional ones that push the rod into the tube?
A good recap, thanks. And I learned something: The foam filler bead you mentioned at the end for installation prior to siliconing. Could add to your video that its important to use a profiling tool to achieve a smooth and well bonded finish on sealants: It helps to resist mould/mildew
Thanks a Roger - lots of great info here on a confusing topic. A great tip regarding the filler rod, which makes total sense (and I never knew existed!) - how many times have we seen silicone which has come away from one surface, as it can’t stretch? Great channel and delivered in a way which is educational, but is based on real world experience. (I’ve just watched the episode where the bifold doors were made the wrong size and glad this sort of thing doesn’t just happen to me!)
I happened across this rod thing browsing a US hardware shop years ago. They called it caulking foam I think. Still got some left in different diameters, it's been very handy.
Hi Roger. Hope you are well. I am renovating the house and learning a lot from the videos from Skill Builder. Really concise and informative. May I please ask a question Roger - I have bad cracks between Staircase skirting board and the wall. I had one of the local decorator come in to solve the issue. He has put some expanding foam between the gaps and them some caulk. However it looks like using the stairs has caused some flex which cracked the caulking. I am looking to reapply the caulk and was wondering what caulk would your recommend for the same? Watched few videos and I am inclined towards using Evo Stick Sticks Like White Turbo (I understand this an adhesive but can be used for this purpose). The cracks looks horrible and hence looking to sort this. Thanks in advance.
Ct1 for adhesive. Stuck a whole house of oak 5” Ogee skirting with no fixings. Fantastic product. Expensive but worth it if you want a belt and braces job. Soudal/everbuild neutral cure for external frame sealing/expansion joints. Only use water base pink grip for mdf skirting find it’s adheres better than the solvent base ones. Pink grip solvent base on sticking stuff to steels ie element board or plasterboard. Top gun caulk for exterior Dulux caulk for interior Plumbers mate for anything water base as it polymer base and instantly seals. Can’t stand grip fill.
I work in the food industry as a manufacturing engineer, CT1 is our go to product. Food safe, grabs and seals well. And for non food areas (outside) we use a silkflex product, can be applied in the wet, good grab and doesnt shrink.
Would love to see one of these with your opinion and differences of gun grade foams and foam adhesives. This is a mine field with so many now on the market.👍
Very good informative video, and on the you get what you pay for theme I have found Sikaflex worth every penny as it REALY sticks but will flex rather than break away. a word of warning on Gripfil I worked with a plumber about 20 years ago who used gripfil to stick a plastic bath end panel to a tiled floor, and when we returned the following morning the panel had been seriously distorted by the solvent based adhesive.
As a decorator I can fully endorse 'Johnstones' 'Fat Hog' (rebranding as 'ProGold') Decorators Caulk, been using it years and never had a problem with it, about £2 a tube, most people with Decorators caulk is they wipe too much out the joint! I have seen people 'sponge' it off/out!!! NO it's meant to create a joint! On Silicones I used to Tile (long story why I dont now) Acetoxy Silicone was the best and make sure you use Dow Corning never had a call back, on you point about gripfill or silicone down the back of a shower door extrusion , read the instructions!!! I had to change a shower screen where someone had done that, it would not cut even with a 'long' stanly blade, it ended up pulling all the tiles off the wall, did you do that on a job in Penge???!!
@@SkillBuilder I had heard about WD40 for removing silicone, but that it was really difficult to remove all traces? And that when applying silicone again, it wouldn't adhere or peel as there was still WD40 there, is there any truth in that?
I recently purchased a tube of Evostik Sticks like Sh*t Turbo, lol, gotta laugh at the name, but seriously great adhesive, bonded soft flexible plastic sink plunger rubber together and stays together. Even states on tube that no surface prep. needed...that's a first!
Very Informative as ever Roger! This is one of the questions we are always asked on our trade counter, "Which is the best stuff for stick this....Great....But is there anything cheaper?"
Roger - another facet of "stuff in tubes" can be 'paintability'. So many clients have tried to paint silicone, with zero success most times. And, of course, once a substrate has been covered with silicone, it makes it nigh on impossible to get paint to adhere.
Have you ever watched the Hoof GP? . He's using something out of a twin barrel set of mastic type tubes with a mixer spout to stick plastic hoof spacers to the underside of a cows hoof. This stuff seems to go solid in moments and with a few minutes the a 3/4 ton beast is marching across the farmyard with a fresh stuck cow stiletto. This stuff, whatever it is would be well handy in the building trade.
Yea I’ve got one of them and it is a great gun . The only fault I find is you can’t fit certain caulks tubes in the gun . I have to cut the end of the bottom of the tube . Do find that ?
Polyurethane for expansion joints, and are over printable. FC is fast cure. MS Modified Sealants, some can set under water, high grab. Silicone sealants are not over printable, so don't use any where that you intend to paint over later, but are great to use as bond breakers in waterproofing applications because nothing sticks to them. Not sure about the painter's caulk there but the brands here have a great ability to bond also, so I always use some along the top edge of skirtings and let it ooze out then wipe off with a wet cloth, bonds and fills in one go. Cheers Roger 👍
Thank you for your contribution. I should have ended the video by inviting people to give us their preferred sealants. It is good to know. I would love to do a Zoom call with you one day and put it on the channel. I think our viewers would be interested to know some of your thoughts and experiences.
Brilliant, clear explanation. I am fixing a porcelain basin under a marble countertop They've given me some brackets but would CT1 or HB42 be suitable to actually stick the basin to the worktop i.e. hanging underneath it?
Hi Roger Love the vids, you've helped me out no end, I wonder if you could answer a question for me. I am about to build a 1.5 metre garden wall using natural stone. I would like to avoid having any mortar. Could I use CT1 instead?
For bonding Tobermore step risers , what would the best adhesive be . I know you were impressed by Sperrin Paving, on your previous video , just asking again which brand would you recommend . Thanks in advance .
Great info. Two years into a house renovation I’m finding your videos an invaluable resource. This one has answered many questions.
I'm 53 and learn so much watching your video's.
Great stuff Roger.
Another very well explained video. After two years as a handyman I didn't know all that stuff. Thanks Roger.
Quick = Yes
Educational = Yes
Entertaining = Yes
Ticks all the boxes 😁👍🏻
i know Im asking the wrong place but does someone know of a way to log back into an instagram account..?
I somehow lost my password. I would appreciate any help you can give me!
@@abdielcalvin9337 Sorry buddy I don't have Instagram so don't know.
You're a good teacher. My DIY skills stretch to putting shelves up and I'll always get someone in but I like your videos, very entertaining!
Without doubt the best brand of sealant I've used is Dow Corning. Any of its range which is huge in application type and colour. Soon as you pick a tube up you can feel the weight of it. I've been using it for over 30 years & most installations are as good now as they were when they were originally fit.
Best silicone you can buy. Mapei does some good stuff but Dow corning you can use on anything
Well worth reading their technical literature, learned quite a bit from that.
Dow is great stuff. I judge silicone by how strong the vinegar smell is, the stronger the better.
Ct1 is the best in my opinion. Bit pricey but worth it . I’m a roofer and I’ve used it many times
Thanks Rodg. Would be great to have a vid on windows. What's under the internal sill. Why have an external sill. How is the cavity covered. How to best insulate around them internally. Etc
Good shout that James. I'm always having to explain to customers regarding thermal bridging round window reveals and the dreaded mould
I normally use the cavity closures with the polystyrene stuck to them ,are the ok do you think?
I'll need to watch it again to take it all in. Lots to learn and what a great teacher!!!
I swear I saw you in selco on thursday. Hard to say cause of the mask. It was like seeing a celebrity 😂😂
Used CT1. What a great product!
I used think it was the best stuff until I had a couple of problems with it I find still is better
Thanks for the video.
Some really useful information.
This is what I've found with stuff over the years.
Hybrid polymers yellow over time especially if bleach is used on them . Stick with silicone around baths/sinks. Caulk for skirting/architraves and hybrid polymers for external and places that you won't see.
Thanks for the info! Good to know.
Another great vid Roger thanks - really helps to demystify the array of tubes on the merchants shelves
You learn (or should) something new every day. Very informative, thanks very much.
The best thing about caulk is that it shrinks, I love that, pulls things tight as it dries, doesn't just fill the gap in a skirting but pulls it flat too
Tom Tom really !
Best video on this subject yet
Brilliant. And don't forget to half fill a bath before sealing.
I didn't think of that, thanks.
I use silicone to stick tiles , It’s cleaner and so much easier, even tiles on tiles , the first time I did this was fifteen years ago and still there 👍
Funny, I was in screwfix other day thinking what's difference between silicone?
One of my pet hates is when you see wrong product used around arcs and skirts like grip fill which has shrunk and peeled. Also silicone around baths that looks like a pissed up slug has been trying to find it's way to the Garden
Great upload
But isn't that what you're suppose to use to seal a place like that?? (silicone)
@@akashajones6079 don't worry Akasha, it is... If done correctly
Thanks to you tube for putting you in my feed, Subscribed, in the building trade as a decorator for 40 year's and you have confirmed my suspicions about products and where to spend and where to not. Thanks for the science.
I use a Hybrid Adhesive (CT1) to stick parts of product together where epoxy failed. Fantastic strength but takes a few days to reach full strength.
I like Stixall, it's great stuff
Can Stixall be used to seal round a shower?
@@murdogordon3091 There are entire boats floating thanks to Stixall.
Young's modulus - theory/practice/know- how - you are good! Physics and geometry, great video as usual
Thanks for the info. Very useful to understand all the differences. Keep up the brilliant tutorials!
I maintain an old Victorian building and have done for about 20yrs and I’ve used SX lead pointing sealant on some of the cracks in various places on the masonry and found after all that time the sealant is still in good shape. I’ve used other lead pointing sealants and they’ve been rubbish.
It would be interesting to find out what its made of to ensure I use the same chemical composition in the future. Cheers
Thank you so much! Excellent advice. Clears the confusion. 😀
Very informative. I never knew what neutral curing was. One thing I don't like about silicone sealant is that you cannot paint over it. Thank you very much.
Thanks Roger. Great work. Something for everyone. CT1... love it.
A few years back I used CT1 in the old water tank(not for drinking, garden water), sealed hole with all water in it, worked like a treat, mint!!! Just please use gloves!
Best caulk is ICI. Dulux center
Best adhesive is Muilt stick. Toolstation.
Best silicone is dow corning. Anywhere.
Brilliant Roger, finally a guide from someone who knows what they’re talking about on the different silicones out there. Funnily enough I tried Dow Corning 785N neutral cure in a shower last year and 12 months later it was black with mould. Never had that problem with standard 785 acetoxy, perhaps it was a duff tube. And in all my years on the tools I can say I’ve turned my back on gripfill now, more hassle than it’s worth, I find the stuff unusable for most jobs as it skins so fast, as you say you have to work it and pull it off then reattach. Not ideal, especially when fixing long lengths of skirting
I find exactly the the same. I started using pink grip. What do you find best? Got some skirting going on this week.
Alan N I use sticks like sh!t now, grabs well, no problems so far and a long open time so it’s easy to make minor adjustments if you need to
@@alann8117 Pinkgrip is has great grab, but also skins very quickly. I found the solvent free (yellow tube) Gripfill to be good... it seems to set rock solid and gives a good amount of time without skinning.
@@edwardholmes91 cheers mate. Yeah punk grip is also skinning quickly. But a little slower than grip fill. I'll give the solvent free stuff a go. Cheers.
he can apostrophise. RESPECT.
Thanks K. We care about good English on this channel and it is hard to resist giving a few pointer in some of the comments. Some of the best English I see is from foreigners.
I really like the dowsil sanitary sealant for sinks and bathrooms it's lasted white the longest so far from the ones I've used and it's not too expensive, about £4-£6 in Screwfix and for windows Allanson's aro seal is great, I've used it quite a bit where I work, but it's a right pain to use due to its viscosity but I can't find a standard public supplier only industrial.
Excellent, a lot of great tips there Roger.
Great video Roger. In the hybrid polymers I have used Soudal Fix All. That seems to stick to anything and the high tack version has a very good initial grab.
Oh yes I forgot them. I feel bad about that because they gave me a load to test a couple of years back.
@@SkillBuilder I think you can still edit the description text after you have published the vid. Bang it in there if you want to relieve your guilt. Plus its cheaper than the CT1.
The Dunlop caulk is a very good product, I always have a tube in the van.
Utterly brilliant (a word that’s overused, but not here) info. Thanks Roger.
Great video Roger. 👍
I read a great book about sealant adhesives, honestly I couldn’t put it down..🙄.
Well done Daniel. I will have to see how Dylan is getting on with your video.
Skill Builder nice one, thanks Roger.
Great video Roger, but I must take issue with you regarding High/Low modulus sealant. Your description is quite correct - High Modulus sealant will form a stiff bead whereas Low Modulus will form a flexible bead. The important consideration is the relative strength of the bond onto the substrate and the amount of anticipated movement. Partial de-bonding as you described helps if the substrate bond is strong but if it is weak then only low modulus sealants are going to survive. If you look at concrete structures you can see movement joints which will have been sealed with high modulus sealants and, typically, either the substrate bond will have failed (and just pulled away) or the substrate bond is so strong (because it was properly prepared) and the surface of the concrete has been pulled off. A failure in either case.. Fortunately the good manufacturers provide advice on joint design which is worth following. Also, if they say you need a primer - you will need a surface primer to ensure good adhesion.
Thanks Jon. That explains it a lot better. I will return to the subject. Do you fancy a Zoom call on this?
@@SkillBuilder Roger, in connection with concrete substrate. In relation to bituminous roof products, like 'Parlon' sheeting etc. So like to drill holes for various attachments. And fill around after, using silicon tubes and things. You can quiz they guys who do the bituminous based roofing products on this. They have their own bituminous based mastic products. For this purpose.
Electrical trades, roof based air handling, air con, mechanical trades. When one puts silicone based mastics and things. To 'seal' the penetration around bituminous based roofs. The two will react, and you end up doing. More harm than good. I'd put this in with that same point. On the concrete substrates.
Metal workers too. Have to go on roofs. Make handrail systems and all kinds of things. Drill holes through vertical parapets made of concrete. To which bituminous (or other roofing systems have been applied as upstands around roof edges). I've spent weeks up on roofs. Moving packaged air handling units around. And this is something, that really deserves it's own 'health warning' video. On it's own. What is the roof made of? Synthetic (chemical welded seams, where one can buy specific patch kits, and things to make penetrations and seals). Whereas bitumin is different. It's an ancient, natural type product. Which works a lot different to synthetic versions. In terms of roofs.
Bitumin is a good system, if you have a good contractor. But even that guy can't prevent the spark, or the air con tech or whoever comes along after. With a drill and a tube of stuff. Where they don't even know difference between natural bituminous or man made roofing materials. I'd imagine too. The point about low modulus products on concrete substrate. Is relevant to that situation in question. Where it is a penetration through a Parlon roof product. Sheet metal trades, who go over parapets with coping metal flashings. At the top of their glazing and cladding systems. At roof level. Regularly don't understand this either. And drill down vertically. At the top of parapet walls. To make anchor screws for brackets or straps. To which the pressed sheet metal copings. Will clip themselves on to. Is another place where guys use silicon on bituminous finished concrete on roofs. Where a long life, flexible seal using a bituminous roof sealant tube. Is what is needed in the hole. When putting in those anchor bolts.
I wish I'd seen this video years ago! Brilliant.
Sponge filler rod tip was exactly what I needed to know. Thanks a lot xox
Thanks for this. The Stuff In Tubes market is something of a minefield. Would be good to see a part 2 that covers construction adhesives and specialist applications
Hi Tom
We will try and enlist the help of some experts. My knowledge is patchy
They're happy to fill their shelves with this stuff but can't be arsed explaining them..always annoys me when you want just the right product for that job you've devoted so much time to. Many thanks.
Another interesting sum up of silicones, and yes the amount of them on the shelves, so confusing cheers again.
Great video Rodger really useful. You forgot to mention the strongest adhesive for ceramics which is of course a ratio mix 2:1, Weetabix and milk. 😀
Any views on these new style sealant guns "Saker tool" that pull the tube backwards against a fixed piston as opposed to traditional ones that push the rod into the tube?
As always, a very useful video by Roger. Thanks!
Always learning something new from these videos.
Used silicone for pvc windows and door and noticed it became oozzy and sticky after. Used tech7 and works perfect. Expensive though. 15 euro per tube.
A good recap, thanks. And I learned something: The foam filler bead you mentioned at the end for installation prior to siliconing.
Could add to your video that its important to use a profiling tool to achieve a smooth and well bonded finish on sealants: It helps to resist mould/mildew
That was great - I’ve just learned a few things. Thanks a lot! 👍
Found this video very informative and useful.
Good stuff, I think you made this video when I posted about me ripping out all the cheap silicone of my new shower build.
Thank you so much for such an informative, helpful video. I feel so much more confident and excited about the jobs I have to do! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼😅
Thanks a Roger - lots of great info here on a confusing topic. A great tip regarding the filler rod, which makes total sense (and I never knew existed!) - how many times have we seen silicone which has come away from one surface, as it can’t stretch? Great channel and delivered in a way which is educational, but is based on real world experience. (I’ve just watched the episode where the bifold doors were made the wrong size and glad this sort of thing doesn’t just happen to me!)
I happened across this rod thing browsing a US hardware shop years ago. They called it caulking foam I think. Still got some left in different diameters, it's been very handy.
What would be best to product to use for the following items?
Stainless steel splashback
Acrylic perspex panels
Top mount sinks
Stikaflex is the only sealant I'll use on my boat to seal around keel bolts or drain plugs.
I use neutral cure for mirror, it doesn't eat into the twin coat and blemish the silver
Never used it but I know Plumbers that use ct1 for sink basins to walls and Ive seen the stuff be so strong it takes half the wall off.
Expanding foam for the corners around windows.
Great channel, the info here is top notch and entertaining as well
Hi Roger. Hope you are well. I am renovating the house and learning a lot from the videos from Skill Builder. Really concise and informative. May I please ask a question Roger - I have bad cracks between Staircase skirting board and the wall. I had one of the local decorator come in to solve the issue. He has put some expanding foam between the gaps and them some caulk. However it looks like using the stairs has caused some flex which cracked the caulking. I am looking to reapply the caulk and was wondering what caulk would your recommend for the same? Watched few videos and I am inclined towards using Evo Stick Sticks Like White Turbo (I understand this an adhesive but can be used for this purpose). The cracks looks horrible and hence looking to sort this.
Thanks in advance.
Good video 👍🍀🇮🇪 it's good to refresh the old brain , there's so many products out there 👏
Ct1 for adhesive. Stuck a whole house of oak 5” Ogee skirting with no fixings. Fantastic product. Expensive but worth it if you want a belt and braces job.
Soudal/everbuild neutral cure for external frame sealing/expansion joints.
Only use water base pink grip for mdf skirting find it’s adheres better than the solvent base ones.
Pink grip solvent base on sticking stuff to steels ie element board or plasterboard.
Top gun caulk for exterior
Dulux caulk for interior
Plumbers mate for anything water base as it polymer base and instantly seals.
Can’t stand grip fill.
Geocel Painter's Mate is the business for caulking and sealing. For sanitary stuff, Dow Corning. Really liked Sikaflex EBT+ too as a hybrid product.
My favourite is Everbuild 500
A Gripping good vid.
Think I'll Stick around and watch some more.
I work in the food industry as a manufacturing engineer, CT1 is our go to product. Food safe, grabs and seals well.
And for non food areas (outside) we use a silkflex product, can be applied in the wet, good grab and doesnt shrink.
Good to know
Would love to see one of these with your opinion and differences of gun grade foams and foam adhesives. This is a mine field with so many now on the market.👍
Very good informative video, and on the you get what you pay for theme I have found Sikaflex worth every penny as it REALY sticks but will flex rather than break away. a word of warning on Gripfil I worked with a plumber about 20 years ago who used gripfil to stick a plastic bath end panel to a tiled floor, and when we returned the following morning the panel had been seriously distorted by the solvent based adhesive.
As a decorator I can fully endorse 'Johnstones' 'Fat Hog' (rebranding as 'ProGold') Decorators Caulk, been using it years and never had a problem with it, about £2 a tube, most people with Decorators caulk is they wipe too much out the joint! I have seen people 'sponge' it off/out!!! NO it's meant to create a joint!
On Silicones I used to Tile (long story why I dont now) Acetoxy Silicone was the best and make sure you use Dow Corning never had a call back, on you point about gripfill or silicone down the back of a shower door extrusion , read the instructions!!! I had to change a shower screen where someone had done that, it would not cut even with a 'long' stanly blade, it ended up pulling all the tiles off the wall, did you do that on a job in Penge???!!
Pistol
Just ease it away slightly at the top, squirt in some WD40 and have a cup of tea. It works really well.
@@SkillBuilder don't need to anymore as Tiling is a pain in the ass now 😁
@@SkillBuilder I had heard about WD40 for removing silicone, but that it was really difficult to remove all traces? And that when applying silicone again, it wouldn't adhere or peel as there was still WD40 there, is there any truth in that?
I recently purchased a tube of Evostik Sticks like Sh*t Turbo, lol, gotta laugh at the name, but seriously great adhesive, bonded soft flexible plastic sink plunger rubber together and stays together. Even states on tube that no surface prep. needed...that's a first!
Great information thanks 👍🍀
Very Informative as ever Roger! This is one of the questions we are always asked on our trade counter, "Which is the best stuff for stick this....Great....But is there anything cheaper?"
That is brilliant! Thanks
Roger - another facet of "stuff in tubes" can be 'paintability'. So many clients have tried to paint silicone, with zero success most times.
And, of course, once a substrate has been covered with silicone, it makes it nigh on impossible to get paint to adhere.
Have you ever watched the Hoof GP? . He's using something out of a twin barrel set of mastic type tubes with a mixer spout to stick plastic hoof spacers to the underside of a cows hoof. This stuff seems to go solid in moments and with a few minutes the a 3/4 ton beast is marching across the farmyard with a fresh stuck cow stiletto. This stuff, whatever it is would be well handy in the building trade.
Great explanation Roger, I have just been siliconing everything haha
Cheers for the knowledge share. Also learned what a skinflint is.
Cheers Roger , very informative 🧱👍🏼
CT1 IS AWESOME 👌
I could only find CT1 online but now Wicks is sticking it . Thanks god . B&Q seem to only stock things from only a couple of brands
Brilliant advice Roger.Thanks
Fixall Soudal white. Fantastic even for round the tile edge on bath or shower tray edge. Don't recommend the clear, it goes yellow.
Dow Corning all the way.
Best sealant gun I've ever used is the Tajima 26
Yea I’ve got one of them and it is a great gun . The only fault I find is you can’t fit certain caulks tubes in the gun . I have to cut the end of the bottom of the tube . Do find that ?
You can get full size guns
Yeah, Its fine for standard size tubes, but for the larger decorator size caulk tubes I have a power pro gun.
Polyurethane for expansion joints, and are over printable. FC is fast cure. MS Modified Sealants, some can set under water, high grab. Silicone sealants are not over printable, so don't use any where that you intend to paint over later, but are great to use as bond breakers in waterproofing applications because nothing sticks to them. Not sure about the painter's caulk there but the brands here have a great ability to bond also, so I always use some along the top edge of skirtings and let it ooze out then wipe off with a wet cloth, bonds and fills in one go. Cheers Roger 👍
Thank you for your contribution. I should have ended the video by inviting people to give us their preferred sealants. It is good to know. I would love to do a Zoom call with you one day and put it on the channel. I think our viewers would be interested to know some of your thoughts and experiences.
@@SkillBuilder It would be my honour mate.
Another great informative video, thank you.
As always, very useful video!
I am using ct1
sikaflex is what made my camper ;)
Brilliant, clear explanation. I am fixing a porcelain basin under a marble countertop They've given me some brackets but would CT1 or HB42 be suitable to actually stick the basin to the worktop i.e. hanging underneath it?
it will work but why not use the brackets as well
@@SkillBuilder Thanks, yes am using brackets, in fact I am also using those angled rods that are adjusted with an allen key.
Another great informative vid
👍
Great tips as always. thanks!
Brilliant as ever!
Thanks. This video really helps!!
Very interesting video Roger!👍
Many thanks
Great video. Very useful. What about painting over the product?
Very interesting and educational thanks for sharing 👍
Excellent info. Thanks.
Handy video Roger. 👌🏻
Hi Roger
Love the vids, you've helped me out no end,
I wonder if you could answer a question for me. I am about to build a 1.5 metre garden wall using natural stone. I would like to avoid having any mortar. Could I use CT1 instead?
That would be expensive but you could use polyurethane adhesive instead. Either will work
For bonding Tobermore step risers , what would the best adhesive be . I know you were impressed by Sperrin Paving, on your previous video , just asking again which brand would you recommend . Thanks in advance .