Self-Locking French Cleat Mount - How To
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- To better secure small and light french cleat mounts, I added a self-locking mechanism.
The purpose of the mechanism is to mimic the effects of the cleat being weighed down and so securing the french cleat.
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the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
Great idea. The spring idea is cool but takes a lot of time to build. I used a spacer between to top of the movable cleat and the bottom of the next wall cleat. Cut a piece of wood so it fits pretty tight between the top of the shelf cleat and the bottom of the next wall cleat. Split it at about 3 degrees and slide the two pieces together so it wedges against the bottom of the higher wall cleat. Takes about two minutes to make and is easy to remove and reuse.
I will echo my comment on your last video... you should have been an engineer! You come up with such creative solutions to problems, I love watching your videos! Thanks for spending the time to film your ideas and sharing them!!
As some others have mentioned you have totally hit this from an engineers perspective. Light load, needs to be quick and easy to reposition, but secure when it is in position. The best I can come up with is add an angle to both sides of the cleat. Other ideas include a wedge or pin to lock things in place, but are nowheres near as flexible as this. Great work!
I don't quite follow what you mean. Would you mind giving me any further details? Thank you in advance.
A double sided cleat is exactly the thought I had.
Excellent. I will add this to my tool van. Already use French cleats to hold my tools and parts bins, but this would be an added security measure when I’m driving down a country road. The weight seems to hold things down, but one never knows...
For one or two specialized items that's a very nice solution. And, as usual, a great video. For more flexibility you may want to consider something that isn't "fixed" to a specific cleat mount. Some people use a stop block *above* the cleat mount, but your spacing has to be perfect for that to be universal, and there's likely to be some wiggle over time. Find a way to make a block that squeezes tightly into those spaces - and still be easy to remove - and you'll be able to lock down any of them. I'm thinking maybe opposing wedges drawn together with cam lever of come kind.
Hi from Greece, I am also a carpenter, We use that system on shelves without the spring a lot, and i think it is enough to hold any weight, But your way is perfect for some strange customers that they don't want it just hanging, a bit more secured in their mind, nice video.
Questa è veramente un'ottima idea. La realizzerò nel prossimo weekend. Il miglior sistema per contrastare la fretta e far cadere tutto. Bravissimo e grazie!
Bonjour, Superbe idée afin de pouvoir bloquer les supports sur les ''french clean''. Merci pour le partage.👍
I’m sure there are simpler solutions out there, but for an expensive camera I can see putting in the effort! If you back-bevel the bottom edge of the cleat itself, and bevel the leading edge of the moving block in your design, it’ll really lock in.
Nice work. Another channel suggests using a dowel to act as a locking pin protruding out from the face going thru to the wall just under the cleat. Quick and dirty and far less superior but some of us are short on time lol
Brilliant. Easy to do and not too complex. Secure way to hold your gear and a great idea for the camera mount. I think two springs would be enough to hold securely and if you had a reverse french cleat you could lock it from both ends. Bottom cleat could be built smaller in your original design to utilize a locking mechanism just for this purpose. I will utilize this for my camera work directly over my bench.
Pretty cool! You have succeeded in making a "better mousetrap", so to speak. good work!
Pretty neat cleat. Could accomplish locking with a single pin in the middle of the shelf (assumed) into the middle of the wall mounted cleat. Pull the pin, lift - move - remove. The difference would be that the wall cleats will need a series of holes drilled at regular intervals. Off hand I'd think 1" spacing would allow some pretty good adjustability. Still, I think yours is pretty darn smart. Good job. Nicely presented too.
A super simple elegant solution..... Just wedge it down from the top so it can't lift out. If you want you could put a little block on a pivot so it could swing out of the way for easy insert, then fold it into lock position once the cleat is positioned. Or, just have a bunch of "locking blocks" in a bin, which is (of course) hanging on a cleat which is locked down as well.
This is great for stuff you need to be able to move around easily. For lighter items that won't necessarily move, I'd just put a screw through the thing and call it good. Quick enough to move if you ever need to, but not going anywhere when you don't want it to.
Great solution to meet with a specific need. I would trim the bottom of the board so that it impacts as few of the cleats below.. You have a great imagination for solutions..
I like it, I really do, but maybe for specific cleats. It would be too much work for common cleats. A simple wedge or a block of wood would work just as well. With that said, I will give your idea a go! Thanks for sharing.
I think this build is great because I live in California and we just had another earthquake so having something that's latches to that wall is a great build for shops like mine
I have a few suggestions in my experience your spring compression should be a little over 50% for your engagement area it's a great idea I would suggest a small slot through the back plate position close to where your thumbs would be which would aid in the removal and perhaps installation of the cleat. Awesome content
good idea love the out of the box thinking
Great idea, love the way your workshop is set up. Thank you.
Nice. Everything you make is awesome.
Great ideas, love the video. Spent time in Pretoria growing up so love the accent.
If you lowered the cleat on the hanging part, so the top of the backboard ends in upper half of the space between the wallcleats, you can easily lock the item hanging by sliding a wedge in covering the gap from your hanger cleat to the above wallcleat. That is one of the basic ideas with cleats, to evenly space and use same dimentions always, and you can make wedges that fit everywhere too for items you want to lock
That is one clever idea, no doubt we will be seeing knock-off versions here on TH-cam soon.
My suggestion. Cut a small piece of wood (roughly an inch square? And the same length as what you are mounting. Hand your mount on the cleat. Fit the long square piece in between that and the underside of the cleat above the. Should prevent movement, saves time, easy to remove. I don’t know! Just my idea. I’ve never built a French cleat before!
Cool and easy solution! Maybe add a hand well on the top of the cleat so it’s easier to grip and remove from the wall
I just use a small wedge to lock the shelves/tool supports in place.. SImple and easy.
That is a really nice concept and very creative idea. I think I might have to agree with your statement of it possibly being a little too complicated, but only if you needed several of them.
Once I have my cleat wall installed, thanks to your ideas and videos, I think I would drill a small hole, and use one of the many things you can insert that are spring loaded on the end, like clevis pins with the ball on each side that has a spring behind each one. Don’t get me wrong, what you made is awesome but you’re so smart and creative that you surpass the necessary. Your ideas just blow my mind.
But if you plan to keep that design, I would suggest cutting two grooves in the front and glue in dowels to move the spring loaded ram from the front. Or maybe I’m overthinking it now? Anyway, keep inspiring us.
Great solution. Keeps from having to screw the brackets in every time you want to move something.
For a use case where you need a mobile but rock-solid connection to your french cleat wall, it makes sense. For more conventional needs, I don't think you'll justify the effort or cost involved.
Nice Video, very clever idea, I can see myself using the self locking mechanism for small french cleat mounts in my work shed 👍👍
Very neat idea.
Genius! Now french cleats in my VAN are possible
Very good idea.
You wont have to do it to everything just stuff you need to move occasionally.
For the camera mount.
I used to have a stage lighting spot light.
It had an extendable accordian style arm with a spherical base attachment. The spherical base was tight enough to hold in place without a lock bolt and the accordian arm was stiff also.
Move it to a position and it stayed there.
love the cleat wall. definitely think I might make something like that for my shop. the springs seems a little overcomplicated. why not just run a screw straight through the cleat into the wall mount?
Also, curious what you think about this solution: th-cam.com/video/M5NnFkpUXmY/w-d-xo.html
Great idea.
Just a pair of opposing wedges. Job done 👍
Genial! You take the whole 🎂!
you could add handls left end right. so you can hang it in on top and pull it down and push in easily
Great idea. Maybe small sharp points on the pinching bar that bite into the cleat. Extra holding power.
That’s an awesome idea plus if someone wanted to put say a table or something on a arm it can work the same
Very cool idea!
It certainly looks like a clean solution, but it appears to be considerable additional expense in hardware. I have seen a version where push wedges are used to engage the underside of the rail, which can be made from offcuts of wood, and hence are cheaper - you do need more space besides the cleated unit however to pull those in and out.
If you put the spring set-up on top instead of at the bottom it might be easier to install and remove
Great idea!
Clever idea, it might be useful to extend the clamping bracket so that you can compress the spring more easily when placing or removing the bracket. I can think of several options, either to the sides or below. The same idea could be achieved more simply with a pair of cams which could be rotated from the front. I may have to play around with the idea on my cleat wall.
You have indeed identified a problem. The solution works but just seems a bit too complex. Instead of the spring bar could you insert a shim or wedge the full thikness from the side. Or push some captive pins or bolts through from the front that go under the mounting rail. Keep it up enjoying the content
Top idea simple and functional way to go
Dude, genius.
Well done
this would have good applications, there is a simpler method however. You could make the backing board facing the cleats long enough to cover one whole cleat, and the one above and below it for a little bit. Then you make the mounting cleat bigger, the distance between the mounting cleats minus the width of a wooden key. Then you make a slightly tapered wooden key, possibly from hardwood, with a thumbhole or something. You mount the whole thing on the cleat, tap the tapered key in and voilá
awesome idea!
Totally cool solution, but I wonder if two magnets might solve the problem more simply?
That is a great idea
Great idea. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Just drill a hole in the face of the piece below the supporting cleat & put a dowel in it. It only needs to stick out about a quarter inch so you can pull it out.
Would adding an inverted cleat cutout and a spring system like that to move an additional cleat work better? that looks like it works great but I feel that a cleat on top and bottom would allow much more secure clamping. or even a threaded insert into the cleat rail and just a hand screw that will go into it on your mount in the middle of the face?
Nice job, very creative. Just a thought - couldn't you just tap a wedge between the top of the hanging board and the next higher wall board?
I think that was a good idea.
Great improvement / addition !!
I'm afraid I'm in the 8:34 camp for most things, but it is nice... so... kudos. :)
that is a damn fine idea ! i was just thinking if i were to use my biscuit jointer or Domino, on the spring loaded side an earthquake couldnt shake it off and it would be very easy to remove. Great channel sir
How would it go if you had that mechanism working in the opposite direction with a mitre cut on the moving part so it locked into the cleat below? You wouldn’t need as much spring tension as it would be locked into 2 cleats.
Watching this I thought my prototype would be something like a sliding gate latch at the top of the mount with a long enough stroke to push against the cleat above it. I feel like that would be easier to engage and disengage that fighting those springs you used
I think that a rotating locking cam might be easier to build, especially with a jig.
Nice an clever my friend. 👍
I like this ideal
Nice idea, but I reckon I’d just put a screw through the board your mounting into the cleat. One hole isn’t a big deal versus all the work to make that spring clamp.
I love the design, I may do something similar. thank you
Brilliant
You are amazing great ideas
Great idea but I think you over-complicated it a bit.
If you made the backing plate a little bit taller you could simply add a block of wood above the cleat so that it stops the cleat from moving upwards as the block of wood would hit the next row of ribs. If you keep the distance between the horizontal rows / ribs the same you can use the same width of block for all locations on the wall. Attach this block to the cleat with a string so you don't lose it. :-)
I hope that made sense!
Fantastic
I like it! Great work as always!
Sehr gute Idee und effektiv, aber in der Herstellung zu kompliziert!
I like the mechanism, but why not place a block above the cleat below the cleat above? If the face extended above the cleat above, wedge would hold it in place.
I like this design but seems to me it would work better on the top instead of the bottom. Seems to me it would be easier to place on top the wall that way.
Personally I would just cut a block of would at the measured dimension to push in on top of the cleat you are wanting to lock into place. The only reason I personally see that a locking cleat might be needed it in the even of a small earth quake but big enough to rattle things loose.
Brilliant !!!!!😀😀
A bit complicated but good for heavy and/or expensive equipment.
would a pair of cams on the sides be easier!! on yours extend the top bar and make it a place to grab and squeeze thumbs on the bottom fingers on the bar
Why did you cut the tops off those bolts?
Thanks. Thats something that i will suretely use in my shop.
I adore this spring actuated cleat. When I was VERY young my Grandfather attached a hand exercise grip to his workshop wall to protect small tools and light weight fasteners from repeatedly falling on the floor.
I agree with you that the springs tension may need altering.
I was wondering why on the bottom most block you did not include an angled cleat cut to secure it to the wall unit? It would seem to me that over extended use you could wear down the lower edge on your wall unit???
I am curious how you are going to articulate you camera mount or tool caddy from this flat surface to give you reach away from the wall?
Lastly, and most importantly could you make a building plan and materials list available?
Keep making GREAT workshop videos.
Jim
post: BTW I love my Toggle Clamps from Amazon. I use them to connect modular Model RxR layout together to make longer layouts. They work fantastic. Thank you for the heads up.
I try to make plans available as often as possible but they take a lot of time to get them to a standard that I would feel comfortable sharing. Because of this I tend to only do plans for big builds.
@@WoodshopJunkies After this video you are going to curse my name.
So after this episode I went back to my workshop (French Cleat) desk to draw up some plans for a kid's project as a birthday gift. I couldn't get the self-locking mount out of my head.
Then I thought what if you mounted your mount to a rolling French Cleat Tool Caddy.
Basicly a rolling box. On heavy duty castors. With some sort of small partition above. The partition (like your wall unit) would have 3 or 4 cleats on both side of the partition. Then you could remove entire wall hung units and place them on your rolling caddy. To take them to your work site.
As a camera mount you would have the ability for traveling money shots. And with some power switches and outlets in the box section you could have continuous power and save the battery life.
I am becoming sorry for you that I found this episode. My mind is exploding with uses for the spring feed self-locking mount.
If you could make a prototype on a plastic AND a metal 3d printer, patent it, and licence it to the woodworking manufactures (Krug, DeWalt, Bosc, etc.) you could make millions for yourself.
Sorry,
Jim
@@jvanamb haha, thanks Jim. I will definitely keep playing around with expanding the concept.
How about a french cleat on the bottom - the spring loaded strip with an upside down cleat so there could be no movement. Your horizontal plates on the wall would therefore need an opposite cleat to the existing one.
The springs would not need to be as strong as the ones you are using making it easier to mount and dismount.
Great concept - looks like a neat solution. Interested to see what you're able to do with it once you scale it up! :-)
it's a clever solution not so complicated
Great!
link for the springs?
Very clever, but a bit over-complicated when any one of many much more simple solutions would work equally as well.
But I'm sure the concept could be put to use in other applications.
Nice
Clever 👍
This is 🔥
Your amazon links doesn't work. Think it might be the missing http? I can copy and paste, but not on my phone
Thanks. I'll check it out.
Baie slim meneer!
While I liked your solution, it is very clever, you could have just taken two wedges and pressed them between the top of the cleat and the under side of the rail above it.
if you insist on springs, maybe just a slanted wood or metal stripe as a spring.
"Or is it an overcomplicated solution to a simple problem?"
That one hurt.
I'm honestly curious what would be your simple fix?
@@lukesimpson5550 The simple fix is a wedge tapped in above the holder to keep the cleat from lifting.
Forget the springs, add another cleat wedge to the bottom to engage with the lower cleat rail
@@JohnColgan. the point was to negate dislodging from a lifting force.
@@lukesimpson5550 No man, it's a joke. 99% of what I do in the shop could be accurately described as "overcomplicating a solution to a simple problem". John didn't have to call me out like that in front of everyone ;)
That's a lot of work for just one cleat. Who has that kind of time. Not to mention all you need to do is extend the back piece so that it touches the 2nd cleat on the wall.