the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
Great idea. The spring idea is cool but takes a lot of time to build. I used a spacer between to top of the movable cleat and the bottom of the next wall cleat. Cut a piece of wood so it fits pretty tight between the top of the shelf cleat and the bottom of the next wall cleat. Split it at about 3 degrees and slide the two pieces together so it wedges against the bottom of the higher wall cleat. Takes about two minutes to make and is easy to remove and reuse.
I will echo my comment on your last video... you should have been an engineer! You come up with such creative solutions to problems, I love watching your videos! Thanks for spending the time to film your ideas and sharing them!!
The wall looks great, and your solution to a common problem with the French Cleat system is very creative and looks really great; but it seems to be very labor intensive. Last year I also dedicated a 16'x4' section to French Cleats backed with two sheets of plywood-it looks just like yours. I've found that most tool holders stay in place. My solution for keeping the smaller ones in place was to attach the cleat on the back of the tool holder about 1/2" down from the the top of the holder, leaving a 1/2" lip. I then slide a small block of wood behind that lip. That block fits snugly between the upper and lower cleats and is kept in place by the 1/2" lip. If the cleats on the wall are all the same distance apart, than all of the locking blocks will be interchangeable.
@monstercawk I'm pretty sure Fred meant labour intensive in comparison to other easier, yet effective solutions...some of which are posted in the other comments.
Hi from Greece, I am also a carpenter, We use that system on shelves without the spring a lot, and i think it is enough to hold any weight, But your way is perfect for some strange customers that they don't want it just hanging, a bit more secured in their mind, nice video.
As some others have mentioned you have totally hit this from an engineers perspective. Light load, needs to be quick and easy to reposition, but secure when it is in position. The best I can come up with is add an angle to both sides of the cleat. Other ideas include a wedge or pin to lock things in place, but are nowheres near as flexible as this. Great work!
Questa è veramente un'ottima idea. La realizzerò nel prossimo weekend. Il miglior sistema per contrastare la fretta e far cadere tutto. Bravissimo e grazie!
Excelent idea ! As a french woodworker i like watching your vidéo because i understand every words you say and you are very brillant ! i like the way you are able to find great solutions to problems.
Well I've read a majority of the detractors of your A'ha moment, saying do this or that...BUT I DONT SEE ANY WHERE THAT THEY SUBMITTED A VIDEO TRYING TO IMPROVE ON IT. So thanks for sharing your experiment with the rest of us who will actually put this concept into use.👍
Armchair quarterbacks... the bane of the internet. But if it “A. Works” and “B. You are satisfied with it” then it doesn’t matter what anyone else thinks. I kind of like what this guy has done... maybe not used the middle spring and possibly added some paste wax for lube on the bolts... but generally keep it the same. It is, after all, a prototype. I had an “expert” armchair QB CNC maker claim that all Openbuilds and Shapeoko CNC machines are overpriced junk and said making your own from scratch is better... yet when I asked him what I could do to improve on my Openbuilds Ox CNC... he went quiet... only to later start whining that something else I did was over complicated... and then suggested a really stupid method in place of what was actually is suggested by the manufacturer. Experts... yeah, right. I don’t argue... I just put them on ignore.
Most of the suggestions i have seen are quite reasonable. I wedge or cam lock would be easier to implement and probably do to the same or better job at holding the cleat in place. Something like in the link below on the bottom/back of the cleat with lock nut would allow him to quickly and easily lock-unlock. So instead of a complicated spring with guides system he only needs a bolt with a large nut that he can righting by hand. www.myerswoodshop.com/blog/clamps
You did good. A good secure camera base will eliminate the little worry in the back of your mind about your expensive equipment falling and being damaged, plus it looks very professional.
Thank you. The only reason I haven't installed a French cleat system is because of the very problem you have just solved. No excuse now so I'd better order some wood and springs. Brilliant solution.
Your solution works and is very creative. I either slide a spacer in from the side to prevent lifting or I just drive a screw into the cleat to prevent all movement. If I want to move the holder, both methods only take a second to undo/redo.
Excellent. I will add this to my tool van. Already use French cleats to hold my tools and parts bins, but this would be an added security measure when I’m driving down a country road. The weight seems to hold things down, but one never knows...
Seems like a lot of effort when you have a lot of holders to hang on the wall. However if you have something very delicate like calipers or heavy like clamps that could come crashing down it is a great idea. You are always very creative and enginuitive in your designs and have the best ideas in woodworking
For one or two specialized items that's a very nice solution. And, as usual, a great video. For more flexibility you may want to consider something that isn't "fixed" to a specific cleat mount. Some people use a stop block *above* the cleat mount, but your spacing has to be perfect for that to be universal, and there's likely to be some wiggle over time. Find a way to make a block that squeezes tightly into those spaces - and still be easy to remove - and you'll be able to lock down any of them. I'm thinking maybe opposing wedges drawn together with cam lever of come kind.
Nice idea! There are situation where I see this may be good for: 1) when lateral access is limited like in a crowded space where removing / inserting wedge or wood block may be difficult, 2) items that do not need to be removed frequently, 3) and items that need secure and tight mount (ie portable hinged lights, expensive Bluetooth speaker, etc..). Thanks for sharing!
There are solutions & {~Solutions~}. Meaning functional & elaborate. The wood key is functional & low tech / low cost. The spring block solution is elegant & intricate. For me Wood Key WINS practical. The Spring Block WINS for innovation. Fortunately in problem solving there is need for both. Well done wood workers, thanks for sharing.
It's probably a little bit over-engineered, but it also seems to work well. I actually think you got the spring tension right. I love how tight and secure it is. Definitely not something you need for every item you hang on the French cleat system, but it seems to work great for some applications.
think you got a winner, yes there are other ways to lock it BUT wood being wood gets misinformed "compressed" over time especially if you have a locking system with no give to it. But other then that i think you got a win here. Cool idea. Tip on the dust, just use your air compressor to get rid of it, i find it works really well. But get some real eye protection and dust mask because you will be drowning in dust.
I faced the same problem and solved it by making small wedges that are slipped in above the mounting and between the cleat above it. When I want to move the mounting, it’s a simple matter of pushing the wedge out, repositioning the mounting and slipping the wedge back in. Virtually no other hardware is necessary, and two wedges can be used from both ends of the mounting if more holding power is needed.
This is an awesome idea. Could be mass marketed....a simpler version of your idea would be 2 pivot locks , one per corner. Just attached with 1 screw. Turn to lock , turn to unlock. But your spring loaded cleat idea is definitely impressive. I'm sure there are other ways it could be done. I personally would use your idea, it seems to be of good quality, and possibly could stand up to daily use, but probably meant to not be removed on a regular basis which is another plus. Meaning it would last that much longer. What a great video, thanks for making these great videos and ideas, I for one appreciate the work you do.
Have seen a few solutions to this problem, most of them are simpler to implement, but your method is way cooler and more professional. Definitely worth the effort in building. Imagine you could make these pretty quickly if you set up a production line. Thanks as for sharing!
I saw several other solutions. I don't think any of them were as expensive as this one. However, the convenience of permanent affixation of the locking mechanism is a bonus. The solution I favoured used one bottom block attached to the fixture, and a long progressive wedge is taped into/out of place.
I love this...in fact, incorporating your locking system would be the only way I'd do a cleat system in my workshop. I love the flexibility but dislike the chance for tools to fall off because they are not secured. Same concept with peg board. I'd rather have cabinets and drawers and label as needed. Thanks for the tips - it is a joy to see you work and expand your workshop.
Brilliant. Easy to do and not too complex. Secure way to hold your gear and a great idea for the camera mount. I think two springs would be enough to hold securely and if you had a reverse french cleat you could lock it from both ends. Bottom cleat could be built smaller in your original design to utilize a locking mechanism just for this purpose. I will utilize this for my camera work directly over my bench.
Simple and brilliant ! I am, (was) looking for a way to secure a cantilevered arm to support and mobilize a support a dust collection hose. I have already built a gimbled overhead storage unit from your design. Thank you for your videos and designs. Well done 👍.
Very creative. I was thinking about something similar but with the locking mechanism upside down and including another piece with a 45 degree angle to lock into the lower cleat. Basically two cleats the lower one is spring loaded
A nice thought, but it won't work. If the spring is pushing down into the lower cleat, it will actually be pushing the whole assembly upward. If you do it to the strip above, you don't even need a mechanical force -- just a removable piece the exact size of the gap.
Very cool and a smart solution. To simplify it, get rid of the guide bolts. The bolts the springs are on are good enough. If you do keep the guide bolts, you don't have to cut the heads off because only one end has to move freely anyway.
Super cool and useful. Looks fun to put together and doesn't defeat the purpose of the clear system, which, to me, is more about versatility and not constantly shuffling things around. I'll have to give it a go!
I think this build is great because I live in California and we just had another earthquake so having something that's latches to that wall is a great build for shops like mine
Nice work. Another channel suggests using a dowel to act as a locking pin protruding out from the face going thru to the wall just under the cleat. Quick and dirty and far less superior but some of us are short on time lol
HAPPY TO SEE THE BEARD IS BACK! There is always more than one solution to a problem, finding the one that works for YOU is where the secret lies! Use it a while and see what other ideas come to mind to fasten it to the wall.
I think it's very clever--but probably too many parts and complication to be practical for most people to pursue. It's still a very neat idea, though, I'm glad you tried it!
I used a bar with 45's cut on each end as the locking piece. This was located in the space between the cleats (where his spring assembly is located). A screw through a clearance hole in the plate into the bar was the operating mechanism. Position the bar horizontally, set the cleat in place, and then turn the screw/bar 90 degrees to lock the cleat in place. The bar needs to be screwed tight enough for some friction with the plate but still allow for rotation. The bar should come close but doesn't have to actually touch the cleats in order to work. It will keep the plate from lifting up or rotating out. It's hard to describe mechanisms in a few words in this comment section but it really is a simple way to lock the plate to the wall. Not quite as rock-steady as the spring loaded version in the video but it won't get knocked off the cleat which was my goal.
This is the first of your videos that I've run across. Your French cleat mount looks ingenious. I'm going to check out your other videos and subscribe based on this video. Keep up he great work.
I ran into a similar problem and solved it by cutting two wedges which can be inserted from opposing sides. It effectively performs the same function as the springs.
All you need to do is make a taller backing plate so that it straddles the wall cleats above and below the location chosen. You then mount your plate to a free cleat section. Since the top and bottom of mounting plate are in contact with the cleats above and below, and won' t be bumped out of the wall cleat it is hung on. Very simple; no springs or gizmos. Your solution is very good, but so much work and stuff to source 8n order to implement.
I’m sure there are simpler solutions out there, but for an expensive camera I can see putting in the effort! If you back-bevel the bottom edge of the cleat itself, and bevel the leading edge of the moving block in your design, it’ll really lock in.
Awesome design. And modular to work with. Nearly any cleat spacing. Mine are 12" apart, but it wouldn't matter with this design. Awesome simple design. Great work!
@Woodshop Junkies, tad late. But I think you need a lever for that spring. So you can pull it down when engaging and disengaging the cleat mount. Looked a bit difficult now, to do it. So, maybe a engage/disengage arm of some sort.
I had a similar idea but couldn't make it as slick as yours and it was too bulky. On mine, I used a spring between the cleat and the rail above, which I slightly french cleated on the bottom as well. Now seeing your version I think it would be best to have the cleat on a spring and a fixed bototm stop so that you can still use hook and unhook it with one hand. One-handed operation is a big thing for me, although I have two perfectly functioning arms.
Great solution to meet with a specific need. I would trim the bottom of the board so that it impacts as few of the cleats below.. You have a great imagination for solutions..
I like your thinking! In my case, I bought a 3D printer so I could produce my cleat-locking system components in different sizes to suit specific applications. I came up with a system that uses opposing magnets to position the cleats, with the 3D printed parts incorporating cams, printed springs (I experimented with coil and leaf), and steel weights.
I do like the idea. It's fun. If it was going to be a hook I didn't move often, I'd want a simpler solution. If it was going to be a hook I did move often, I'd want it to be easier to use.
Love the idea. What about putting a 45 on the bottom of the cleat (like the top) and the same for the block connected to the spring. That would require less spring tension and completely lock the attachment to the wall system.
Nice solution and execution! 😎 As for your question at 8:27... I cannot speak from experience, but just by looking at the problem (and knowing myself 😁) I would probably just jam another peace of plywood with improvised handle in between the mount cleat and upper wall cleat. 😁
Now, for us old gran-pas, design a captured spring suspension system for a wooden soap box car, independent system. Thanks, A+ for the demonstration speech.
I have a few suggestions in my experience your spring compression should be a little over 50% for your engagement area it's a great idea I would suggest a small slot through the back plate position close to where your thumbs would be which would aid in the removal and perhaps installation of the cleat. Awesome content
You could try a cam on a pivot with a lever. Lever horizontal pokes out the side and the cam has enough room to let the cleat release. Push the lever to vertical twists the cam to be tight against the rail. No springs required.
The proof of concept with the springs is good; however, Dan’s a cam lock mechanism idea seems a bit more user friendly in the long run… Great Channel BTW!
This sort of thing or an even simpler wedge tapped in above it were my thoughts but the wedge would be a seperate piece and require a tool to install whereas the cam would have its own handle and be self sufficient so I’d take the slight complexity for the ease of use. 👍
This is kind of what I was thinking, too. Kind of like a camera tripod plate, you could even have it spring loaded so it snaps shut when you engage it, but that would be needlessly complicated.
Pretty neat cleat. Could accomplish locking with a single pin in the middle of the shelf (assumed) into the middle of the wall mounted cleat. Pull the pin, lift - move - remove. The difference would be that the wall cleats will need a series of holes drilled at regular intervals. Off hand I'd think 1" spacing would allow some pretty good adjustability. Still, I think yours is pretty darn smart. Good job. Nicely presented too.
Very well presented and a good idea if you frequently move cleats around. But it seems like a lot of work. My cleats tend to stay in the same place for long periods as I rarely rearrange them. To anchor them I simply insert a small and easily removed screw that prevents horizontal and vertical movement.
I think you are absolutely brilliant!! Great idea to make a good system even better. Thanks for your ingenuity. I will be using your idea in my new shop. 🙏🏻
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the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
Great idea. The spring idea is cool but takes a lot of time to build. I used a spacer between to top of the movable cleat and the bottom of the next wall cleat. Cut a piece of wood so it fits pretty tight between the top of the shelf cleat and the bottom of the next wall cleat. Split it at about 3 degrees and slide the two pieces together so it wedges against the bottom of the higher wall cleat. Takes about two minutes to make and is easy to remove and reuse.
dood. That worktable is amazing. First 30 seconds of you opening that thing up: mind blown.
If I weren't already older than you, I'd want to be you when I grow up!
Seriously, brilliant solutions, as always. Love your channel.
This dudes ideas are AMAZING. I want him to come design my shop!
I will echo my comment on your last video... you should have been an engineer! You come up with such creative solutions to problems, I love watching your videos! Thanks for spending the time to film your ideas and sharing them!!
The wall looks great, and your solution to a common problem with the French Cleat system is very creative and looks really great; but it seems to be very labor intensive. Last year I also dedicated a 16'x4' section to French Cleats backed with two sheets of plywood-it looks just like yours. I've found that most tool holders stay in place. My solution for keeping the smaller ones in place was to attach the cleat on the back of the tool holder about 1/2" down from the the top of the holder, leaving a 1/2" lip. I then slide a small block of wood behind that lip. That block fits snugly between the upper and lower cleats and is kept in place by the 1/2" lip. If the cleats on the wall are all the same distance apart, than all of the locking blocks will be interchangeable.
@monstercawk I'm pretty sure Fred meant labour intensive in comparison to other easier, yet effective solutions...some of which are posted in the other comments.
Hi from Greece, I am also a carpenter, We use that system on shelves without the spring a lot, and i think it is enough to hold any weight, But your way is perfect for some strange customers that they don't want it just hanging, a bit more secured in their mind, nice video.
As some others have mentioned you have totally hit this from an engineers perspective. Light load, needs to be quick and easy to reposition, but secure when it is in position. The best I can come up with is add an angle to both sides of the cleat. Other ideas include a wedge or pin to lock things in place, but are nowheres near as flexible as this. Great work!
I don't quite follow what you mean. Would you mind giving me any further details? Thank you in advance.
A double sided cleat is exactly the thought I had.
Awesome -- The main reason I've never been a fan of French Cleats! -- Might have to change my mind on French Cleats!
That is a great solution to one of the biggest headaches to french cleats! Plus it could double as a hand strength workout jig. :) Haha!
Questa è veramente un'ottima idea. La realizzerò nel prossimo weekend. Il miglior sistema per contrastare la fretta e far cadere tutto. Bravissimo e grazie!
Excelent idea ! As a french woodworker i like watching your vidéo because i understand every words you say and you are very brillant ! i like the way you are able to find great solutions to problems.
Well I've read a majority of the detractors of your A'ha moment, saying do this or that...BUT I DONT SEE ANY WHERE THAT THEY SUBMITTED A VIDEO TRYING TO IMPROVE ON IT. So thanks for sharing your experiment with the rest of us who will actually put this concept into use.👍
Armchair quarterbacks... the bane of the internet. But if it “A. Works” and “B. You are satisfied with it” then it doesn’t matter what anyone else thinks. I kind of like what this guy has done... maybe not used the middle spring and possibly added some paste wax for lube on the bolts... but generally keep it the same. It is, after all, a prototype.
I had an “expert” armchair QB CNC maker claim that all Openbuilds and Shapeoko CNC machines are overpriced junk and said making your own from scratch is better... yet when I asked him what I could do to improve on my Openbuilds Ox CNC... he went quiet... only to later start whining that something else I did was over complicated... and then suggested a really stupid method in place of what was actually is suggested by the manufacturer. Experts... yeah, right. I don’t argue... I just put them on ignore.
Most of the suggestions i have seen are quite reasonable. I wedge or cam lock would be easier to implement and probably do to the same or better job at holding the cleat in place. Something like in the link below on the bottom/back of the cleat with lock nut would allow him to quickly and easily lock-unlock. So instead of a complicated spring with guides system he only needs a bolt with a large nut that he can righting by hand.
www.myerswoodshop.com/blog/clamps
Smart. Very smart.
Well done and I know this will only get better.
One more thing I have to do for myself! Your ideas are a great refresher for YT. Thanks, I enjoy watching your every video clip
You did good. A good secure camera base will eliminate the little worry in the back of your mind about your expensive equipment falling and being damaged, plus it looks very professional.
Thank you. The only reason I haven't installed a French cleat system is because of the very problem you have just solved. No excuse now so I'd better order some wood and springs. Brilliant solution.
Great idea, love the way your workshop is set up. Thank you.
I think the self locking cleat is a great idea 💡!
Your solution works and is very creative. I either slide a spacer in from the side to prevent lifting or I just drive a screw into the cleat to prevent all movement. If I want to move the holder, both methods only take a second to undo/redo.
Awesome design! Best locking mechanism I have seen for a fremch cleat!
Bonjour, Superbe idée afin de pouvoir bloquer les supports sur les ''french clean''. Merci pour le partage.👍
Excellent. I will add this to my tool van. Already use French cleats to hold my tools and parts bins, but this would be an added security measure when I’m driving down a country road. The weight seems to hold things down, but one never knows...
Seems like a lot of effort when you have a lot of holders to hang on the wall. However if you have something very delicate like calipers or heavy like clamps that could come crashing down it is a great idea. You are always very creative and enginuitive in your designs and have the best ideas in woodworking
For one or two specialized items that's a very nice solution. And, as usual, a great video. For more flexibility you may want to consider something that isn't "fixed" to a specific cleat mount. Some people use a stop block *above* the cleat mount, but your spacing has to be perfect for that to be universal, and there's likely to be some wiggle over time. Find a way to make a block that squeezes tightly into those spaces - and still be easy to remove - and you'll be able to lock down any of them. I'm thinking maybe opposing wedges drawn together with cam lever of come kind.
This is an impressive solution. Good work.
Nice idea! There are situation where I see this may be good for: 1) when lateral access is limited like in a crowded space where removing / inserting wedge or wood block may be difficult, 2) items that do not need to be removed frequently, 3) and items that need secure and tight mount (ie portable hinged lights, expensive Bluetooth speaker, etc..). Thanks for sharing!
There are solutions & {~Solutions~}. Meaning functional & elaborate. The wood key is functional & low tech / low cost.
The spring block solution is elegant & intricate. For me Wood Key WINS practical. The Spring Block WINS for innovation.
Fortunately in problem solving there is need for both. Well done wood workers, thanks for sharing.
Utterly ingenious and delightful!
It's probably a little bit over-engineered, but it also seems to work well. I actually think you got the spring tension right. I love how tight and secure it is. Definitely not something you need for every item you hang on the French cleat system, but it seems to work great for some applications.
Just when I think, "what other clever solutions could he possibility come up with", he posts another vid. I love it, nice job Jean, as usual
Pretty cool! You have succeeded in making a "better mousetrap", so to speak. good work!
thats such a brilliant idea for heavier things...nice design
think you got a winner, yes there are other ways to lock it BUT wood being wood gets misinformed "compressed" over time especially if you have a locking system with no give to it. But other then that i think you got a win here. Cool idea. Tip on the dust, just use your air compressor to get rid of it, i find it works really well. But get some real eye protection and dust mask because you will be drowning in dust.
I faced the same problem and solved it by making small wedges that are slipped in above the mounting and between the cleat above it. When I want to move the mounting, it’s a simple matter of pushing the wedge out, repositioning the mounting and slipping the wedge back in. Virtually no other hardware is necessary, and two wedges can be used from both ends of the mounting if more holding power is needed.
This is perfect for my box trucks! I would had a bevel on the bottom of the french cleat as well to provide two locking surfaces.
That’s awesome. I really like that idea and I may use that on my next hanging rack project
This is an awesome idea. Could be mass marketed....a simpler version of your idea would be 2 pivot locks , one per corner. Just attached with 1 screw. Turn to lock , turn to unlock.
But your spring loaded cleat idea is definitely impressive.
I'm sure there are other ways it could be done.
I personally would use your idea, it seems to be of good quality, and possibly could stand up to daily use, but probably meant to not be removed on a regular basis which is another plus. Meaning it would last that much longer.
What a great video, thanks for making these great videos and ideas, I for one appreciate the work you do.
I think this is a brilliant solution.
Wow, that's a seriously smart solution.
Have seen a few solutions to this problem, most of them are simpler to implement, but your method is way cooler and more professional. Definitely worth the effort in building. Imagine you could make these pretty quickly if you set up a production line. Thanks as for sharing!
Great idea to make an already good storage system very sturdy. Awesome!
I saw several other solutions. I don't think any of them were as expensive as this one. However, the convenience of permanent affixation of the locking mechanism is a bonus. The solution I favoured used one bottom block attached to the fixture, and a long progressive wedge is taped into/out of place.
Very creative ! I love your solutions. Typical South African ingenuity. A boer maak 'n plan
I love this...in fact, incorporating your locking system would be the only way I'd do a cleat system in my workshop. I love the flexibility but dislike the chance for tools to fall off because they are not secured. Same concept with peg board. I'd rather have cabinets and drawers and label as needed. Thanks for the tips - it is a joy to see you work and expand your workshop.
Brilliant. Easy to do and not too complex. Secure way to hold your gear and a great idea for the camera mount. I think two springs would be enough to hold securely and if you had a reverse french cleat you could lock it from both ends. Bottom cleat could be built smaller in your original design to utilize a locking mechanism just for this purpose. I will utilize this for my camera work directly over my bench.
Very good idea, prevents spillage
Very, very clever. Nice job!
Pretty cool idea~! Yeah, it may be over-built, but it looks like a fun exercise in creativity.
Simple and brilliant ! I am, (was) looking for a way to secure a cantilevered arm to support and mobilize a support a dust collection hose.
I have already built a gimbled overhead storage unit from your design.
Thank you for your videos and designs. Well done 👍.
Very creative. I was thinking about something similar but with the locking mechanism upside down and including another piece with a 45 degree angle to lock into the lower cleat. Basically two cleats the lower one is spring loaded
A nice thought, but it won't work. If the spring is pushing down into the lower cleat, it will actually be pushing the whole assembly upward.
If you do it to the strip above, you don't even need a mechanical force -- just a removable piece the exact size of the gap.
Very cool and a smart solution. To simplify it, get rid of the guide bolts. The bolts the springs are on are good enough. If you do keep the guide bolts, you don't have to cut the heads off because only one end has to move freely anyway.
Very nice, I've done something similar but not as robust, did glue a piece of sandpaper on the pusher block to give it a bit of extra grip.
Strip of ply above the cleat??
Ingenious. Material and time intensive.
Guess you like doing the things the longest way possible
Super cool and useful. Looks fun to put together and doesn't defeat the purpose of the clear system, which, to me, is more about versatility and not constantly shuffling things around. I'll have to give it a go!
Nice. Everything you make is awesome.
I think this build is great because I live in California and we just had another earthquake so having something that's latches to that wall is a great build for shops like mine
Nice work. Another channel suggests using a dowel to act as a locking pin protruding out from the face going thru to the wall just under the cleat. Quick and dirty and far less superior but some of us are short on time lol
Very clever idea. Definitely a need for it.
Brilliant! This will be great for heavier tools. Love it.
Looks great ! Helpful and for sure useful
HAPPY TO SEE THE BEARD IS BACK! There is always more than one solution to a problem, finding the one that works for YOU is where the secret lies! Use it a while and see what other ideas come to mind to fasten it to the wall.
I think it's very clever--but probably too many parts and complication to be practical for most people to pursue. It's still a very neat idea, though, I'm glad you tried it!
Cool addition to the cleat wall. Great idea.
I used a bar with 45's cut on each end as the locking piece. This was located in the space between the cleats (where his spring assembly is located). A screw through a clearance hole in the plate into the bar was the operating mechanism. Position the bar horizontally, set the cleat in place, and then turn the screw/bar 90 degrees to lock the cleat in place.
The bar needs to be screwed tight enough for some friction with the plate but still allow for rotation. The bar should come close but doesn't have to actually touch the cleats in order to work. It will keep the plate from lifting up or rotating out.
It's hard to describe mechanisms in a few words in this comment section but it really is a simple way to lock the plate to the wall. Not quite as rock-steady as the spring loaded version in the video but it won't get knocked off the cleat which was my goal.
That is a fantastic idea, beats some of the things I have done to lock the cleats in place, will definitely be using this method.
That is a really cool video and cool style!!! I love how you arrived at a great solution friend!!!!!
Hey Jean ! Always enjoy finding South African creators, really like what you're doing ! Howzit from Jozi !
This is the first of your videos that I've run across. Your French cleat mount looks ingenious. I'm going to check out your other videos and subscribe based on this video. Keep up he great work.
I ran into a similar problem and solved it by cutting two wedges which can be inserted from opposing sides. It effectively performs the same function as the springs.
All you need to do is make a taller backing plate so that it straddles the wall cleats above and below the location chosen. You then mount your plate to a free cleat section. Since the top and bottom of mounting plate are in contact with the cleats above and below, and won' t be bumped out of the wall cleat it is hung on. Very simple; no springs or gizmos. Your solution is very good, but so much work and stuff to source 8n order to implement.
I’m sure there are simpler solutions out there, but for an expensive camera I can see putting in the effort! If you back-bevel the bottom edge of the cleat itself, and bevel the leading edge of the moving block in your design, it’ll really lock in.
Awesome design. And modular to work with. Nearly any cleat spacing. Mine are 12" apart, but it wouldn't matter with this design. Awesome simple design. Great work!
This is genius and I love it
Great ideas, love the video. Spent time in Pretoria growing up so love the accent.
@Woodshop Junkies, tad late. But I think you need a lever for that spring. So you can pull it down when engaging and disengaging the cleat mount. Looked a bit difficult now, to do it. So, maybe a engage/disengage arm of some sort.
Nice Video, very clever idea, I can see myself using the self locking mechanism for small french cleat mounts in my work shed 👍👍
Excellent, I lot of work though, just watched one on 3 locking mechanisms that may be a lot simpler, but sure you had a lot of fun!
I had a similar idea but couldn't make it as slick as yours and it was too bulky. On mine, I used a spring between the cleat and the rail above, which I slightly french cleated on the bottom as well.
Now seeing your version I think it would be best to have the cleat on a spring and a fixed bototm stop so that you can still use hook and unhook it with one hand. One-handed operation is a big thing for me, although I have two perfectly functioning arms.
Brilliant!
I am definitely going to use this idea. I have French Cleats in my garage/shop and my office.
Well done, thanks!
Great solution to meet with a specific need. I would trim the bottom of the board so that it impacts as few of the cleats below.. You have a great imagination for solutions..
Brilliant! As an improvement, you could also add handles on each side to make it "front mounting" instead of pushing from the bottom.
Genius! Now french cleats in my VAN are possible
I like your thinking! In my case, I bought a 3D printer so I could produce my cleat-locking system components in different sizes to suit specific applications. I came up with a system that uses opposing magnets to position the cleats, with the 3D printed parts incorporating cams, printed springs (I experimented with coil and leaf), and steel weights.
No te entiendo nada en tu idioma.
Pero q genial trabajo q haces.
Felicitaciones...desde Argentina. Dios te bendiga
I do like the idea. It's fun.
If it was going to be a hook I didn't move often, I'd want a simpler solution. If it was going to be a hook I did move often, I'd want it to be easier to use.
Great video as usual. A simple idea, well presented and an excellent solution to the problem. I always look forward to your presentations.
Love the idea. What about putting a 45 on the bottom of the cleat (like the top) and the same for the block connected to the spring. That would require less spring tension and completely lock the attachment to the wall system.
Nice solution and execution! 😎
As for your question at 8:27... I cannot speak from experience, but just by looking at the problem (and knowing myself 😁) I would probably just jam another peace of plywood with improvised handle in between the mount cleat and upper wall cleat. 😁
Now, for us old gran-pas, design a captured spring suspension system for a wooden soap box car, independent system. Thanks, A+ for the demonstration speech.
Great idea. May help me in my new workshop rebuild.
I have a few suggestions in my experience your spring compression should be a little over 50% for your engagement area it's a great idea I would suggest a small slot through the back plate position close to where your thumbs would be which would aid in the removal and perhaps installation of the cleat. Awesome content
You could try a cam on a pivot with a lever. Lever horizontal pokes out the side and the cam has enough room to let the cleat release. Push the lever to vertical twists the cam to be tight against the rail. No springs required.
Ah, glad I scrolled down a bit, that was my thought as an alternative method.
The proof of concept with the springs is good; however, Dan’s a cam lock mechanism idea seems a bit more user friendly in the long run…
Great Channel BTW!
This sort of thing or an even simpler wedge tapped in above it were my thoughts but the wedge would be a seperate piece and require a tool to install whereas the cam would have its own handle and be self sufficient so I’d take the slight complexity for the ease of use. 👍
This is kind of what I was thinking, too. Kind of like a camera tripod plate, you could even have it spring loaded so it snaps shut when you engage it, but that would be needlessly complicated.
Spring loaded pins lighter springs plus the pins would be stronger
Thanks, I will build this. Very useful fo the shop.
looks great. Probably could achieve same result with lever locking mechanism or reversed clamp mechanism
good idea love the out of the box thinking
Pretty neat cleat. Could accomplish locking with a single pin in the middle of the shelf (assumed) into the middle of the wall mounted cleat. Pull the pin, lift - move - remove. The difference would be that the wall cleats will need a series of holes drilled at regular intervals. Off hand I'd think 1" spacing would allow some pretty good adjustability. Still, I think yours is pretty darn smart. Good job. Nicely presented too.
Very well presented and a good idea if you frequently move cleats around. But it seems like a lot of work. My cleats tend to stay in the same place for long periods as I rarely rearrange them. To anchor them I simply insert a small and easily removed screw that prevents horizontal and vertical movement.
I think you are absolutely brilliant!! Great idea to make a good system even better. Thanks for your ingenuity. I will be using your idea in my new shop. 🙏🏻