I find the best use of French cleats is for shelves/trays/fixtures where I need to grab a whole set of tools and take it with me. A glue caddy that I can take off the wall and bring to the project, the set of Allen wrenches so I can bring them all to the bench, or something like the sharpening station and have it include any accessories that go with it.
Instead of installing something behind the tool holder to grab onto the bottom of the cleat, friction fit a block between the tool holder and the cleat (or frame) above it. Then you don't have to worry about screws at all. When it comes time to move a tool, tap the block out to the side with a mallet and a dowel.
Great Organizer, I like cleats. when i make mine i just run them back through the saw set back at 90 degrees and cut off the pointy end. That way i get a gap for fine dust. if i had issues i could vacuum out or blow off the slots. Like you mentioned things don't get taken off or on often. I also store my pieces of unused cleats in the empty track spaces which also keeps dust out. I really liked you 3d printed organizers.
to eliminate that dust build up issue, just cut the pointing end off you cleat angles. The dust is still there, but it won't pose a problem. Similar to why you put chamfer on the inside corners on jigs
Another way you could make the tool holders not move is to cleat both sides of the slat while building the wall, and then use a cleated block underneath. You'd also solve the problem of installing the wall upside down :)
Kinda had similar idea. Just do a dovetail and don't frame it. Every single board would be a separate rail and you can easily move stuff around. You could even hang heavier things if they would have those holders top and bottom.
Or: You design your cleats to have a parallelogram cross-section, and place them just far enough apart that you can diagonally slide your piece into the gap, creating a tight fit that leaves no wiggle room, but still allows the piece to be sled left and right, as well as taken back out.
@@SwordandKeyboard29 No. Chamfered. A "dovetail" is specifically that shape used on the END of a bit of wood when using it to join to another piece of wood at RIGHT ANGLES. People mistakenly call a double chamfered section of wood "dovetailed", when it isn't a dovetail.
@@rafezetter8003 No. Beveled. A "chamfer" is specifically that cut used on the EDGE of a bit of wood that DOESN'T EXTEND across to BOTH SURFACES. People mistakenly call a double beveled section of wood "chamfered", when it isn't a chamfer. If you're going to be pedantic, you can at least get it right.
Nice content! Im not really woodworker, nor I own/rent a workshop, but doing small projects; design mockups, miniature models, DIY stuff of all kind. I really appreciate that you don't hide some mistakes from your audience (e.g. accidentally first putting the cleat wall upside-down) but show them that everyone makes mistakes :) It is also nice to hear you explaining why you went with certain decision while telling about another option that you could've taken.
Great video! Nice to see your solutions, Scott! Very clever to put the gap behind the cleat for the dust to fall through. Gotta say though, not all of us think peg-board is that ugly for a shop. (I panelled mine with it. 🙂) I've replaced most of the (mostly) lousey store bought hooks with tool holders made from scrap pine and L hooks. I might even do French cleats with the holder hooking on the peg-board for things like a basket of spring clamps, so that I can take the basket off the wall to where I'm doing glue up.
I bought some nice black metal pegboard for mine. Way more heavy-duty than regular pegboard, looks better, and resists moisture. Considering the amount of time and effort that goes into these french cleat systems, plus the cost of the wood and the wood finisher, it was worth it. Plus my workshop area is in a basement, and the outside walls are against the ground, so I wanted to be conscious of moisture being in direct contact with whatever I put up on the wall. Anyways, it works for me, and bulk pegs are cheap, so I don't have to make a new tool holder every time I want to hang something new. You can also buy peg shelves for pretty cheap (or just put a piece of wood with a few quick grooves routed out of it on some pegs) if you want to store larger things. But for some people, they would enjoy this project, so more power to them.
Oh and also, you can get good pegs in bulk online, way better and thicker than most of the hardware store stuff. I got a 50-pack of 6-inch Persa brand pegs for $20 at the time, but looks like they sell for $25 now. That's still just 50 cents a hook, and they always fit perfectly and don't bend or otherwise sag. All in all, I still prefer toolboxes with good ball-bearing drawers for almost everything, but that starts to get up there in $$$. Maybe one day.
This is only the second video of Scott's that I have watched and have now subscribed. I think his ideas are fantastic and I enjoy his obsessiveness about detail, functionality, accessibility and aesthetics.
It would be cool to sell the holder, but it would be cooler for you to post it on printables for those who have their own printers. Or sell the file cheaply to those who do.
Yeah, it doesn't make much sense as a product since the design requires the customer to have those exact sizes of chisels. Would gladly pay a few bucks for a parametric model that I can customize for the chisels in my shop though.
Of course then you can choose colours fitting your own shop! It would also allow you to sand the thing neatly flat after printing the black main body before adding the contrasting (white here) size label --- maybe I'm even more special than Walsh, but it grates me to see the printing artefacts when we spend so much time sanding off woodwork artefacts.
I have seen a French cleat key.... I believe it was in a woodshop junkie video. If I'm remembering correctly, it was a piece of plywood cut to a friction fit that fit into the space between the top of the tool holder and the bottom of the cleat above it.
Great video and I agree about cleat walls for frequently used items, and drawers for less frequently accessed items. Clever trick with the biscuits. I've used 1/8" scraps I usually turn into stir sticks for spacers (though not on french cleats); they work well. Another suggestion for locking the cleats into place: use cleat offcuts so they slide into the cleat below the one being used to hang the tool holder. Similar to the one where you screw straight through the holder into a block below the main cleat, only it would be another cleat piece that slides into the next cleat down. Much easier in execution than explanation. To take this idea even further, use threaded inserts in the cleat piece you'd be screwing into so they're infinitely reusable and won't get chewed up by screwing/unscrewing to move the tool holders around. Side note; wall control works with standard pegboard pegs as well as those they sell; omniwall is another brand of metal pegboard though it's a bit more expensive than wall control.
I fell for the French cleat TH-cam fad when I set up my workshop & I'm glad I did. I regularly move things around to optimize my workflow & they the cleats make this dead simple. Not really noticed a huge dust collection problem. Every week or so I don a dust mask & blow everywhere with the compressor dust gun & then get out of the workshop for an hour or so with the windows open to let the dust settle. Most goes on the floor or worktops & is easily swept & hoovered up.
When I moved into my current shop, about 25 years ago, I added a cleat around the whole space, about 80 feet of it. It was properly painted, and looks like a chair rail set about 3/4 height in the room. I links to the top of the windows. Since then it supports everything from a thermostat to lumber racks, and of course tool racks. It has been great, but it is only the one rail, everything else is designed for purpose and isn't some hipster peg board substitute.
Love your style and humor. Subbed. Wish I had seen this a few years ago. Convinced by TH-camrs that I needed French cleats I installed them around my new shop at considerable expense. Because my shop walls are covered in birch veneered plywood, I wanted the cleats to look good as well and ended up buying $90/sheet maple veneered 3/4" ply to cut up for French cleats. I really believe the wall space would have been more efficient had I just screwed the tool holders to the wall. I have not rearranged items nearly enough to justify the cost and "convenience." I love drawers. My small 19' x 20' shop has almost 100 drawers. The vast majority of them are shallow because most tools don't need a deep drawer. I have both wood and metal working tools and the drawers help protect the precision tooling and measuring instruments from both metal ships and sawdust which promotes rust.
Great video Scott! The spacer to hold the cleat off the wall is a great idea!👍 The cleat lock is a definite improvement so good job on that as well! Looks like you're making great progress on the shop!
With the French cleat system, it allows you to move your tools from your workshop to your workspace and continue to keep things uncluttered. When I am finished with a certain toolset, I can return them to my shop. Hanging your tools on a wall with cleats allows you to find what you are looking for quickly instead of having to search through cluttered tables, boxes or drawers for a tool. If in your workspace, you have also added cleats, it is a bonus. Storing Items used at the same time together is a bonus.
Thank you Scott for helping me understand why I should just use a pegboard. It's cheap, the holders can accommodate 95% of my tools, and I don't have to spend hours making holders. However, I suppose one could screw a cleat rail onto a pegboard for any tools that need specialized holders.
something my grandfather had on his french cleat wall that solves the dust issue (and the spider issue) he slapped a frame around it, then inside of that frame he put an old scroll blackout blind mechanism in the shed, just lift the blind up, once your done just pull it down just as easy to access with the extra step of having to pull the blind up at the start of the day but kept 90% of the dust out
What a cool video! So much content crammed into it. An original and refreshing view on french cleats, 3D printed chiselholders and a great innovation for sharpening stones. Thanks a lot for sharing this. As to the chisel holder, I'm afraid I 've made my own wooden holder of which I am mildly proud. So no plastic for me. But thanks for posting all this.
Just signed up for the Narex chisel holders. I promised that I would make a kaizen foam holder about two years ago. And they are still rolling around in my drawer. LOL. Great use of pocket hole screws!
Great video- useful info and great production values. One question: why don’t you use a riving knife, while standing in the target zone? The in-facing feather board, while a useful thing, significantly increases the frequency of kickback when no riving knife or other safety method is employed. But I guess the intermittent use of things like eye protection, mask, and other safety standards used by most professionals answers my own question.
As a fellow French cleat nerd, I have to say.....I can't believe you didn't mount your French cleat board to the wall with French cleats. Perfect opportunity to make fun of all the French cleat people.
Maybe for your next French Cleat setup, you could do a bevel on the bottom of the cleat. Then you could use a bevel instead of a biscuit to hold the block to steady the holder.
Since you screwed them in through the biscuits, would attaching the biscuits with some CA glue be enough? Or do you think the glue/pin is a better choice?
CHISEL HOLDER 3D PRINT STL FILE: scottwalsh.co/products/narex-richter-6pc-chisel-holder-stl-file I haven't yet been able to figure out how to sell a completed physical 3D print holder yet, but I have listed the 3D print .stl file for sale on my website if you want to print the Narex Richter 6pc chisel holder for yourself, or use a print service to print it for you. Also if you have any requests for 3D printed holders for me to design and sell, let me know. Majority wins.
I did something similar to the screw method by putting in 1/2" dowels. Push in to lock, pull out to release, no drill required. You can achieve a tighter fit by drilling the dowel holes slightly above the bottom of the cleat, then shaving down the top of the pushed dowel to wedge-fit.
I think we find French cleats so exciting because it gets our creativity and imagination going in overdrive. We come up with all these cool holders and ideas and ways to secure them and that's really neat and fun. But then, we install them and everything just stays where we put it the first time or we end up not using them because it's more convenient to have X tool at hand at all times. I almost feel like once you're ready to really build out your shop space, you should try French cleats, figure out what you really like where, and then just screw what you like into place permanently. Then you can leave everything where you like and if there's things you want to move around a bunch, well you just don't screw them down. I've found that French cleats really shine for hanging heavy stuff on the wall semi-permanently and for getting the creative juices flowing.
I don't rearrange my tools often enough to justify a cleat wall. I just screw my holders to the plywood I have hung up.I have thought that some shelves with pegboard doors might be neat, since I could hang stuff on both sides and attach holders with screws from behind. Glue a sheet of plastic to the inside of the pegboard to stop dust (push the screws through it or make holes where they go).
I am looking at building shelving for my amateur radio shack and small shop. Wondering if i should go with single shelves like the one i have, or use some sort of open cabinet type shelf.
anyone thinking about building a french cleat wall. just realize one thing. If you build one. You also have to making hangers for all the tools as well. this will take lots of time. and use lots of material.
13:32 for securing without 'biscuits', just add a second piece of french cleat scrap, that grabs the rail below? Now the little block keeps it in place --- it can't rotate forward anymore due to the new piece.
One little thing I did to the basic dowel/hook style holders was trace the tool's outline on the wood behind it. This makes it look a bit more intentional and can help remind exactly which tool goes where
Hi, as for securing the item from the bottom side with glued biscuit working only on a floating cleat - why not going a step further, making the "shelves" skewed from both sides (top & bottom) a screwing a skewed block of wood below the shelves?
I recently discovered 3d printed pegboard holders. There are hundreds of them out there. I printed some nice drill holsters to hold some of my less often used hand drills behind my drill press since my 4 slot drill holder was full. That same holder fit my heat gun like a glove. There are bit holders, screwdriver holders, even trays for holding often used screws or odd shaped bits. Your French Cleat system definitely looks prettier though. My entire garage is covered in pegboard from the previous owner, so use what you got, yah know? There's also a hex based 3d printed wall hanger system "honeycomb storage wall." It requires a lot of plastic to print out the honeycombs, but the parts for interlocking are way more printer friendly than pegboard hooks, which often break off.
You should have French cleated your French Cleat wall, to the wall. #Frenchcleatinception Great video man! You’re super fun to listen to and this was incredibly helpful!
What is the width of the cleats and the spacing between each of them? I love how you custom designed them to different sizes so you can move them if or when necessary.
I really like the chisel holder, but obviously it has to be designed for certain chisels. If I have the wood river set, I cannot use a holder for Stanley sweethearts. It does look awesome though!
I use a HF magnetic strips as the most simple and efficient way to store chisels, screwdrivers, pliers, etc. Bulky hammers are stacked on long pegboard hooks. Many tools can be more efficiently stored with trim pegboard hooks as opposed to French Cleat woodwork projects with bulky dowels that end up looking like something from the Flintsone Era 😀
Other locking idea, do another 45°on the upper side of the mount and insert another block between the mount and the cleat above, like that you dont need to screw anything and you can quickly make change to you set up
You could do a cam lever on the backside and also has a lip to grab behind the slats. It's completely hidden so for people not making videos it only has to be done well enough to work so templates or 3d printing is optional.
Scott, You already have LOTS of comments about the french cleats. For several years, I have been using 1/2" plywood to make them. My solution to the loose cleat jig is like your solution that drives a screw to protrude under the wall cleat. To ensure I achieve a tight fit, I use a piece of wall cleat material under the cleat jig and draw a line on the back of the cleat jig. I drill a 1/8" hole from the back to the front of the cleat jig, countersink the front and drive a #8, 5/8" countersink screw from the front. It makes a nice, tight fit. I enjoy your site. I am Scott, too.
I'm not a woodworker. I build motorcycles. French cleats are epic. My entire workshop is surrounded by french cleat. The only thing I can't do is cut the 45 degree strips for the wall. I had to outsource that. I got a smaller table saw but it's a pain to get it straight. I don't have those featherboards or whatever they are called. I tried several times but they always come out curved.
Hey Scott - New woodworker here trying to build a tool collection (just a DIY homeowner)... what drill bits are you using that have the countersink to them? and would you recommend them or do you have others to recommend?
I love my cleat walls. It’s not about moving things constantly around (which in fact would slow down your work flow looking for tools again...) but the ease of mind when arranging things. I mean, who knows what tools will come? Who knows theoretically what should be where on your wall? Just the freedom to move things around makes your planning process so much easier. As you don’t have to have a plan at all.
I went with metal pegboard. The options to put shelves in anywhere on it was a huge plus. It’s not hard to build custom holders and anything that’s magnetic can just be placed against it without a holder. I don’t do a lot of open storage though because it just collects dust. So everything in open storage has to be used regularly.
I have little working space since I woodwork from a garage that a actually use to park cars. So what I find myself doing with my cleats is that I move closer to my work space the tools that I'll be using in this particular phase of the project: As long as I am in the cutting assembling phase of the project, I keep the saws, drills, clamps, ... close to my working space. Once I move to the finishing phase, I push these back away from where I work, and I bring the sanders, sanding papers, brushes, sprays, ... close to my working space. I'm also setting up a singel cleat on my work bench to be able to have tools right there without reducing the flat surfaces I have available since I have so little to begin with. I like it!
I have 16 feet by 4 feet of peg board on my wall. Vowed I would never use peg board until I discovered Talon peg board hooks. They lock in place so you don't end up picking the hooks up off of the floor. Game changer for me. Not for everybody's needs but they work well for me.
Nice video! The floating cleats are a good idea, but I’m wondering why you even need the heavy piece of BB plywood in the first place? Seems like you could just mount the cleats in a frame, with vertical supports as needed. I’m pretty cheap, and it seems to me the plywood base is just adding a lot of weight and expense with much benefit.
You probably could but you'd need screws across the face of each cleat to go into studs every so often (And make the floating biscuits/other material to match where the studs are). Perhaps mapping that out and getting them all level and screws lining up neatly could be difficult that way but doable.
french cleats are amazing when you don't cut them at a 45. 30 degrees is more than enough to hold things. They are less sharp, less fragile, and easier to clean out.
I can’t remember where I saw it but I’ve seen a 3D printed tab that goes behind the tool holder and basically works like a cam to lock the holder in place by snuggling up against the bottom of the wall cleat. Locks it solidly into place but only takes a second (and no tools) to unlock when needed.
I love all your videos and stuff, but this one just made me more sure than ever that I hate French cleats for tool storage. I'm basically of a mind with Matthias wandel, if you're gonna spend a bunch of time making tool holders might as well just screw them directly to the wall in the exact spot you want. He mounts a simple sheet of plywood to his walls, but to make installation easier in my tiny basement shop and look slightly nicer, I use shiplap attached to cleats I secured to the concrete walls.
Is there any reason not to 45° both the top and bottom of the cleat? That way you can use adjustable blocks (also 45°) on the bottom to hold things steady?
I put all my stuff on the wall because of watching too many TH-camrs tbh, haha. It was a terrible idea for me to begin with and never improved no matter how much thought I put into it. Now my shop is very clean and organized into wonderful drawers. Even my drills are in drawers - just feels so much better to me; especially as someone whose shop is in a mixed use garage.
Here's an idea for you about wall space - I can see you're using sound baffles to kill some of the reverb while recording - how about making another french cleat system, but specifically designed for shallower items, then putting a door on it made of one of your sound baffles - same wall space - 2 functions.
I seen you using a push stick when you were ripping your 45s. I just wanted to share a little thing. I like push sticks as well, but last year I got a little lax on the stick, at the end of a cut, and the end hit the blade and it slammed the stick through my wrist and I had to go get several stitches right across the suicide spot on my wrist. I still prefer a push stick, but I made one out of softer wood than hickory, rounded the handle end off nicely, and I hold it a little different. I just wanted to share this to possibly help someone else avoid the same silly mistake.
Great Video! At first I thought you had over-engineered a solution in search of a problem, but its plain that your cleats beat my peg-board hands-down. I assume that you mounted to the wall studs for the size that you have. Any recommendations about size proportions relative to load? Just looking for some kind of general rule-of-thumb. Thoughts? BTW #2 Have you done a video on a simplified approach to making small part Sorts. Yes I know its cheaper to buy the plastic ones, but the wooden cases would probably be more durable and a bit of fun to maske. Thoughts?
To lock things in you can simply it by making small cam locks out of wood. Just run a screw though a slightly oversized hole glue it to the cam and then just half turn the cam into the gap behind the rail or into a dado cut in the bottom of rail. It's quick, permanently attached to the tool holder and locks everything in tight but loosens in under a second if needed. I cut a dado in my original cleat rails but will switch to the offset for the new ones I'm making for my micro shop.
Taking all of this in. Within the next four months I’m selling my home and buying a motorhome to live in, so I’ll be gutting a 24ft travel trailer and turning it into a wood shop. It’ll be an interesting logistical problem, because while I will be upgrading the axles, I have to be cognizant of tool weight and distribution. When I put on my French cleat wall system, I’ll have to design it so that tool holders don’t A) jump off of the wall cleat while I’m rolling over bumpy roads (which you’re design does) … B) prevents the tool holders sliding lengthwise along the wall cleat if I need to suddenly decelerate and C) locks the tools onto the tool holders so that they don’t just jump off of the locked tool holder on the same bumpy roads I have a design with a block that essentially clamps the bottom of the wall rail like yours, but I went a bit extra on my design with plans on using threaded rod and knurled knobs to slide my clamping block up and down in order to move or remove the tool holders. Coupled with some anti skid material on the clamping blocks take care of problems A) and B). For C) I may have to use magnets for some items and leather or fabric straps and snaps to keep the tools in place. It’s going to be a whole hell of a lot of fun figuring it all out.
You can also secue them by using a shallow angle vedge between the toolholder cleat and the row abow it. So that the toolholder is pressed into the cleat instead of just hanging there
My method for securing my french cleats that's faster and simpler is to put a block on the bottom (about where you put yours) with space for a wedge. You can press it into place with your fingers and it grips like the dickens. It only needs to barely move to really bite down hard.
I haven't found any recommended dimensions. The cleat should be at least 2" wide and 3" apart for strength and convenience, but even then, you could probably go tighter. It just ends up being more work.
No French cleats for me for a variety of reasons. But I do love my two drawer service cart. My most used tools live there and if I pull something else out to use It gets put on the cart until I am done with it. I can roll it around the shop to where I am working, the tools are not on the bench, but I am not searching all over for where I put down my calipers or that screwdriver.
Noticed that your room and general audio is sounding much improved from your older videos. doesn't change your content...but it makes it sound nicer. good job!!!!!
And why have you never talked about or done some kind of guitar project!?!?!?! Not necessarily making a guitar, but at least a related project would be neat!
A french cleat are super fun and it wall was my first woodworking project, which should tell you how easy they are, just be careful as I didn't round over the edges of the cleats, and boy who would have thought wood could cut you like a knife! Also you can always improve your existing cleat wall holders as you skills get better so its a constant testing and learning project too :D
I just cut key blocks that are a slight wedge to tap in between the cleat on the tool holder and the rail above it. Then you can just tap them out with without using any screws or other tools.
Hi Scott, did you consider a two sided cleat? So 45s on both sides. This allows you to clamp the tool holder to the cleat with a block which also has a 45 degree side. Capturing the cleat from two sides
He said they were 5/8 thick, and said he'd explain later why that was important. If he did explain, I missed it! Others have said pickets are cheap and easily available. I haven't found that to be the case here in Western Australia.
Sawing 45's on top and bottom solves the loose hanger issue as it can screw in a block with a 45 on the bottom. That would lock it in tight as well, with little extra effort. And if you a sawing a board into cleat strips you have that double 45 anyway.
I tried cedar fence pickets for a French clear wall. 6 months later I replaced them with pine boards. Cedar is soft and the point on the clear would shred and splinter way too easy.
I have a TINY (6'x6') metal shop, and I use French cleats for my heavier tools, and will likely use pegboard for my smaller and lighter items, like my grinding and cut-off disks, PPE, tape, etc. I actually don't have the room for drawers.
As far as the utility, it's not as fast and maybe not as cheap as other options, but making the rails and hangers requires me to think about what I'm making and get to work. Half of the appeal is in building the system. It's the same reason I like 3D printing and things like the gridfinity system: it's kind of impractical on a large scale but it's fun.
Hello Hello From Canada!!! I like your cleat wall the best out of all the other examples on youtube now. The gap on the top of your cleats looks like it the same for all your accessory and tool holders, so why don't you just use scrap pieces from your bin. If you cut a block to go on top of the "Tool Holder" that fits snugly under the wall cleat above and locks in place because you glue biscuit to your block to lock it in place. I never use the damn biscuits so you are bright for using them on something useful. When you need to move or re-organize a holder, just slide the block out from between and set the block resting on the cleat until you return the holder to that position. It will work really well because of your excellent biscuit shims so the block will be less likely to fall of the top of the cleat until you wedge it back on top of the holder. The cleat wall by your table saw rocks cause all the things you need for the saw are not used every day, but on your wall there is no searching or fumbling of an accessory when you do need it. Keep up the awesome content and I can't wait to see more episodes on your channel, because I'm a newly subscribed viewer. Stay safe, stay healthy and I hope you are as happy as you possibly can be. 🤘😁👍
I think it might be better to offer parametric models for the chisel holders rather than selling them pre-made so you don't have to deal with expensive 3D printing shops. Then again, people who know how to 3D print and do simple modeling could probably make their own pretty easily. I guess the approach depends on if you're more trying to profit off of this idea vs trying to be helpful/innovative, and if your viewers are already the maker type. Good luck!
“When I pull out, it stills feels a little wiggly” - Scott Walsh
😂
🤣🏆
Comedic Genius 😂😂😂😂
But like he said before „not so much of an issue with larger things“ 😂
lá ele
I find the best use of French cleats is for shelves/trays/fixtures where I need to grab a whole set of tools and take it with me. A glue caddy that I can take off the wall and bring to the project, the set of Allen wrenches so I can bring them all to the bench, or something like the sharpening station and have it include any accessories that go with it.
Instead of installing something behind the tool holder to grab onto the bottom of the cleat, friction fit a block between the tool holder and the cleat (or frame) above it. Then you don't have to worry about screws at all. When it comes time to move a tool, tap the block out to the side with a mallet and a dowel.
You could go one better with that idea and make the top of the "holder" part of the cleat, and the bottom of the friction block a pair of wedges.
Great Organizer, I like cleats. when i make mine i just run them back through the saw set back at 90 degrees and cut off the pointy end. That way i get a gap for fine dust. if i had issues i could vacuum out or blow off the slots. Like you mentioned things don't get taken off or on often. I also store my pieces of unused cleats in the empty track spaces which also keeps dust out.
I really liked you 3d printed organizers.
I use all of my tools….as a backdrop on my videos 2:56
bros busy lurkin and not uploading... smh
@@AllSnipe lol I’ll have something out in a few days
@WoodcraftBySuman, honesty, i like it. All while having fun.
to eliminate that dust build up issue, just cut the pointing end off you cleat angles. The dust is still there, but it won't pose a problem. Similar to why you put chamfer on the inside corners on jigs
Another way you could make the tool holders not move is to cleat both sides of the slat while building the wall, and then use a cleated block underneath. You'd also solve the problem of installing the wall upside down :)
So dovetails then
Kinda had similar idea. Just do a dovetail and don't frame it. Every single board would be a separate rail and you can easily move stuff around. You could even hang heavier things if they would have those holders top and bottom.
Or: You design your cleats to have a parallelogram cross-section, and place them just far enough apart that you can diagonally slide your piece into the gap, creating a tight fit that leaves no wiggle room, but still allows the piece to be sled left and right, as well as taken back out.
@@SwordandKeyboard29 No. Chamfered. A "dovetail" is specifically that shape used on the END of a bit of wood when using it to join to another piece of wood at RIGHT ANGLES. People mistakenly call a double chamfered section of wood "dovetailed", when it isn't a dovetail.
@@rafezetter8003 No. Beveled. A "chamfer" is specifically that cut used on the EDGE of a bit of wood that DOESN'T EXTEND across to BOTH SURFACES. People mistakenly call a double beveled section of wood "chamfered", when it isn't a chamfer.
If you're going to be pedantic, you can at least get it right.
I LOVE how clean it looks with attaching the cleats from the back.
Nice content! Im not really woodworker, nor I own/rent a workshop, but doing small projects; design mockups, miniature models, DIY stuff of all kind. I really appreciate that you don't hide some mistakes from your audience (e.g. accidentally first putting the cleat wall upside-down) but show them that everyone makes mistakes :)
It is also nice to hear you explaining why you went with certain decision while telling about another option that you could've taken.
Great video! Nice to see your solutions, Scott! Very clever to put the gap behind the cleat for the dust to fall through.
Gotta say though, not all of us think peg-board is that ugly for a shop. (I panelled mine with it. 🙂) I've replaced most of the (mostly) lousey store bought hooks with tool holders made from scrap pine and L hooks. I might even do French cleats with the holder hooking on the peg-board for things like a basket of spring clamps, so that I can take the basket off the wall to where I'm doing glue up.
I bought some nice black metal pegboard for mine. Way more heavy-duty than regular pegboard, looks better, and resists moisture. Considering the amount of time and effort that goes into these french cleat systems, plus the cost of the wood and the wood finisher, it was worth it. Plus my workshop area is in a basement, and the outside walls are against the ground, so I wanted to be conscious of moisture being in direct contact with whatever I put up on the wall.
Anyways, it works for me, and bulk pegs are cheap, so I don't have to make a new tool holder every time I want to hang something new. You can also buy peg shelves for pretty cheap (or just put a piece of wood with a few quick grooves routed out of it on some pegs) if you want to store larger things. But for some people, they would enjoy this project, so more power to them.
Oh and also, you can get good pegs in bulk online, way better and thicker than most of the hardware store stuff. I got a 50-pack of 6-inch Persa brand pegs for $20 at the time, but looks like they sell for $25 now. That's still just 50 cents a hook, and they always fit perfectly and don't bend or otherwise sag.
All in all, I still prefer toolboxes with good ball-bearing drawers for almost everything, but that starts to get up there in $$$. Maybe one day.
This is only the second video of Scott's that I have watched and have now subscribed. I think his ideas are fantastic and I enjoy his obsessiveness about detail, functionality, accessibility and aesthetics.
It would be cool to sell the holder, but it would be cooler for you to post it on printables for those who have their own printers. Or sell the file cheaply to those who do.
Yeah, it doesn't make much sense as a product since the design requires the customer to have those exact sizes of chisels. Would gladly pay a few bucks for a parametric model that I can customize for the chisels in my shop though.
Of course then you can choose colours fitting your own shop! It would also allow you to sand the thing neatly flat after printing the black main body before adding the contrasting (white here) size label --- maybe I'm even more special than Walsh, but it grates me to see the printing artefacts when we spend so much time sanding off woodwork artefacts.
I have seen a French cleat key.... I believe it was in a woodshop junkie video. If I'm remembering correctly, it was a piece of plywood cut to a friction fit that fit into the space between the top of the tool holder and the bottom of the cleat above it.
nicely done scott! always nice to see someone have a fresh take on an old design
Great ideas, Scott~! Love the use of those worthless biscuits behind the french cleat for "dust off".
Great video and I agree about cleat walls for frequently used items, and drawers for less frequently accessed items.
Clever trick with the biscuits. I've used 1/8" scraps I usually turn into stir sticks for spacers (though not on french cleats); they work well.
Another suggestion for locking the cleats into place: use cleat offcuts so they slide into the cleat below the one being used to hang the tool holder. Similar to the one where you screw straight through the holder into a block below the main cleat, only it would be another cleat piece that slides into the next cleat down. Much easier in execution than explanation. To take this idea even further, use threaded inserts in the cleat piece you'd be screwing into so they're infinitely reusable and won't get chewed up by screwing/unscrewing to move the tool holders around.
Side note; wall control works with standard pegboard pegs as well as those they sell; omniwall is another brand of metal pegboard though it's a bit more expensive than wall control.
I fell for the French cleat TH-cam fad when I set up my workshop & I'm glad I did. I regularly move things around to optimize my workflow & they the cleats make this dead simple.
Not really noticed a huge dust collection problem. Every week or so I don a dust mask & blow everywhere with the compressor dust gun & then get out of the workshop for an hour or so with the windows open to let the dust settle. Most goes on the floor or worktops & is easily swept & hoovered up.
Very cool ideas. Thanks. I still put most things in drawers and agree the often used sh*t should be quick accessible, not in a drawer.
When I moved into my current shop, about 25 years ago, I added a cleat around the whole space, about 80 feet of it. It was properly painted, and looks like a chair rail set about 3/4 height in the room. I links to the top of the windows. Since then it supports everything from a thermostat to lumber racks, and of course tool racks. It has been great, but it is only the one rail, everything else is designed for purpose and isn't some hipster peg board substitute.
Love your style and humor. Subbed. Wish I had seen this a few years ago. Convinced by TH-camrs that I needed French cleats I installed them around my new shop at considerable expense. Because my shop walls are covered in birch veneered plywood, I wanted the cleats to look good as well and ended up buying $90/sheet maple veneered 3/4" ply to cut up for French cleats. I really believe the wall space would have been more efficient had I just screwed the tool holders to the wall. I have not rearranged items nearly enough to justify the cost and "convenience."
I love drawers. My small 19' x 20' shop has almost 100 drawers. The vast majority of them are shallow because most tools don't need a deep drawer. I have both wood and metal working tools and the drawers help protect the precision tooling and measuring instruments from both metal ships and sawdust which promotes rust.
Dude you're amazing. Your patience, skill and attention to detail is unparalleled
Great video Scott! The spacer to hold the cleat off the wall is a great idea!👍 The cleat lock is a definite improvement so good job on that as well! Looks like you're making great progress on the shop!
What's the typical spacing between cleats?
I want to know more about the sharpening stone holder!
With the French cleat system, it allows you to move your tools from your workshop to your workspace and continue to keep things uncluttered. When I am finished with a certain toolset, I can return them to my shop. Hanging your tools on a wall with cleats allows you to find what you are looking for quickly instead of having to search through cluttered tables, boxes or drawers for a tool. If in your workspace, you have also added cleats, it is a bonus. Storing Items used at the same time together is a bonus.
Yeah, that's what I do. I have set up cleats on my workbench to bring the whole holder to my workbench. When I am done I bring it back!
Works great!
Thank you Scott for helping me understand why I should just use a pegboard. It's cheap, the holders can accommodate 95% of my tools, and I don't have to spend hours making holders. However, I suppose one could screw a cleat rail onto a pegboard for any tools that need specialized holders.
something my grandfather had on his french cleat wall that solves the dust issue (and the spider issue)
he slapped a frame around it, then inside of that frame he put an old scroll blackout blind mechanism
in the shed, just lift the blind up, once your done just pull it down
just as easy to access with the extra step of having to pull the blind up at the start of the day but kept 90% of the dust out
What a cool video! So much content crammed into it. An original and refreshing view on french cleats, 3D printed chiselholders and a great innovation for sharpening stones. Thanks a lot for sharing this. As to the chisel holder, I'm afraid I 've made my own wooden holder of which I am mildly proud. So no plastic for me. But thanks for posting all this.
Super cool video Scott! Love the ideas you had, the music, the flow of the video. Awesome job!
Just signed up for the Narex chisel holders. I promised that I would make a kaizen foam holder about two years ago. And they are still rolling around in my drawer. LOL. Great use of pocket hole screws!
Great video- useful info and great production values. One question: why don’t you use a riving knife, while standing in the target zone? The in-facing feather board, while a useful thing, significantly increases the frequency of kickback when no riving knife or other safety method is employed. But I guess the intermittent use of things like eye protection, mask, and other safety standards used by most professionals answers my own question.
As a fellow French cleat nerd, I have to say.....I can't believe you didn't mount your French cleat board to the wall with French cleats. Perfect opportunity to make fun of all the French cleat people.
Maybe for your next French Cleat setup, you could do a bevel on the bottom of the cleat. Then you could use a bevel instead of a biscuit to hold the block to steady the holder.
I was heading to the comment section to say exactly this.
Since you screwed them in through the biscuits, would attaching the biscuits with some CA glue be enough? Or do you think the glue/pin is a better choice?
CHISEL HOLDER 3D PRINT STL FILE:
scottwalsh.co/products/narex-richter-6pc-chisel-holder-stl-file
I haven't yet been able to figure out how to sell a completed physical 3D print holder yet, but I have listed the 3D print .stl file for sale on my website if you want to print the Narex Richter 6pc chisel holder for yourself, or use a print service to print it for you.
Also if you have any requests for 3D printed holders for me to design and sell, let me know. Majority wins.
Do you know @shopnation??? Maybe he can help you produce them?? Greatings from Holland
I did something similar to the screw method by putting in 1/2" dowels. Push in to lock, pull out to release, no drill required. You can achieve a tighter fit by drilling the dowel holes slightly above the bottom of the cleat, then shaving down the top of the pushed dowel to wedge-fit.
Love the chisel holder!
I think we find French cleats so exciting because it gets our creativity and imagination going in overdrive. We come up with all these cool holders and ideas and ways to secure them and that's really neat and fun.
But then, we install them and everything just stays where we put it the first time or we end up not using them because it's more convenient to have X tool at hand at all times.
I almost feel like once you're ready to really build out your shop space, you should try French cleats, figure out what you really like where, and then just screw what you like into place permanently. Then you can leave everything where you like and if there's things you want to move around a bunch, well you just don't screw them down.
I've found that French cleats really shine for hanging heavy stuff on the wall semi-permanently and for getting the creative juices flowing.
I don't rearrange my tools often enough to justify a cleat wall. I just screw my holders to the plywood I have hung up.I have thought that some shelves with pegboard doors might be neat, since I could hang stuff on both sides and attach holders with screws from behind. Glue a sheet of plastic to the inside of the pegboard to stop dust (push the screws through it or make holes where they go).
I am looking at building shelving for my amateur radio shack and small shop. Wondering if i should go with single shelves like the one i have, or use some sort of open cabinet type shelf.
anyone thinking about building a french cleat wall. just realize one thing. If you build one. You also have to making hangers for all the tools as well. this will take lots of time. and use lots of material.
As occupy a ton of wall space.
13:32 for securing without 'biscuits', just add a second piece of french cleat scrap, that grabs the rail below? Now the little block keeps it in place --- it can't rotate forward anymore due to the new piece.
One little thing I did to the basic dowel/hook style holders was trace the tool's outline on the wood behind it. This makes it look a bit more intentional and can help remind exactly which tool goes where
Hi, as for securing the item from the bottom side with glued biscuit working only on a floating cleat - why not going a step further, making the "shelves" skewed from both sides (top & bottom) a screwing a skewed block of wood below the shelves?
Great idea and some upgrades too the French cleat wall. Love the 3D printed chisel holders.
For your printed chisel holder, you can also put magnets in the back of the printed board to prevent the chisels from falling out.
That chisel holder is so cool! Image this being CNC milled with the engraved holes (chisel width numbers) filled with epoxy.
I recently discovered 3d printed pegboard holders. There are hundreds of them out there. I printed some nice drill holsters to hold some of my less often used hand drills behind my drill press since my 4 slot drill holder was full. That same holder fit my heat gun like a glove. There are bit holders, screwdriver holders, even trays for holding often used screws or odd shaped bits. Your French Cleat system definitely looks prettier though. My entire garage is covered in pegboard from the previous owner, so use what you got, yah know? There's also a hex based 3d printed wall hanger system "honeycomb storage wall." It requires a lot of plastic to print out the honeycombs, but the parts for interlocking are way more printer friendly than pegboard hooks, which often break off.
You should have French cleated your French Cleat wall, to the wall. #Frenchcleatinception
Great video man! You’re super fun to listen to and this was incredibly helpful!
What is the width of the cleats and the spacing between each of them? I love how you custom designed them to different sizes so you can move them if or when necessary.
I really like the chisel holder, but obviously it has to be designed for certain chisels. If I have the wood river set, I cannot use a holder for Stanley sweethearts. It does look awesome though!
I think he could fix that with a simple design change, put a couple of magnets in each slot to hold the chisel in place
@@duallity2403 magnets will also allow it to hold chisels after they get shorter from sharpening and the tips aren't engaging the bottom anymore.
@@TavoriGuitars Great point.
I use a HF magnetic strips as the most simple and efficient way to store chisels, screwdrivers, pliers, etc. Bulky hammers are stacked on long pegboard hooks. Many tools can be more efficiently stored with trim pegboard hooks as opposed to French Cleat woodwork projects with bulky dowels that end up looking like something from the Flintsone Era 😀
Other locking idea, do another 45°on the upper side of the mount and insert another block between the mount and the cleat above, like that you dont need to screw anything and you can quickly make change to you set up
You could do a cam lever on the backside and also has a lip to grab behind the slats. It's completely hidden so for people not making videos it only has to be done well enough to work so templates or 3d printing is optional.
Scott,
You already have LOTS of comments about the french cleats. For several years, I have been using 1/2" plywood to make them. My solution to the loose cleat jig is like your solution that drives a screw to protrude under the wall cleat. To ensure I achieve a tight fit, I use a piece of wall cleat material under the cleat jig and draw a line on the back of the cleat jig. I drill a 1/8" hole from the back to the front of the cleat jig, countersink the front and drive a #8, 5/8" countersink screw from the front. It makes a nice, tight fit. I enjoy your site.
I am Scott, too.
I'm not a woodworker. I build motorcycles. French cleats are epic. My entire workshop is surrounded by french cleat. The only thing I can't do is cut the 45 degree strips for the wall. I had to outsource that. I got a smaller table saw but it's a pain to get it straight. I don't have those featherboards or whatever they are called. I tried several times but they always come out curved.
Hey Scott - New woodworker here trying to build a tool collection (just a DIY homeowner)... what drill bits are you using that have the countersink to them? and would you recommend them or do you have others to recommend?
I love my cleat walls. It’s not about moving things constantly around (which in fact would slow down your work flow looking for tools again...) but the ease of mind when arranging things. I mean, who knows what tools will come? Who knows theoretically what should be where on your wall? Just the freedom to move things around makes your planning process so much easier. As you don’t have to have a plan at all.
I went with metal pegboard. The options to put shelves in anywhere on it was a huge plus. It’s not hard to build custom holders and anything that’s magnetic can just be placed against it without a holder. I don’t do a lot of open storage though because it just collects dust. So everything in open storage has to be used regularly.
I have little working space since I woodwork from a garage that a actually use to park cars.
So what I find myself doing with my cleats is that I move closer to my work space the tools that I'll be using in this particular phase of the project:
As long as I am in the cutting assembling phase of the project, I keep the saws, drills, clamps, ... close to my working space.
Once I move to the finishing phase, I push these back away from where I work, and I bring the sanders, sanding papers, brushes, sprays, ... close to my working space.
I'm also setting up a singel cleat on my work bench to be able to have tools right there without reducing the flat surfaces I have available since I have so little to begin with.
I like it!
I have 16 feet by 4 feet of peg board on my wall. Vowed I would never use peg board until I discovered Talon peg board hooks. They lock in place so you don't end up picking the hooks up off of the floor. Game changer for me. Not for everybody's needs but they work well for me.
Can you make a cam lever to hold the toolholder in place?
Nice video! The floating cleats are a good idea, but I’m wondering why you even need the heavy piece of BB plywood in the first place? Seems like you could just mount the cleats in a frame, with vertical supports as needed.
I’m pretty cheap, and it seems to me the plywood base is just adding a lot of weight and expense with much benefit.
You probably could but you'd need screws across the face of each cleat to go into studs every so often (And make the floating biscuits/other material to match where the studs are). Perhaps mapping that out and getting them all level and screws lining up neatly could be difficult that way but doable.
As for the 3D printed stuff, maybe think about selling the stl instead of the physical product?
i would recommend doing both
Great video, how about the STL, amazing chisel holder.
french cleats are amazing when you don't cut them at a 45. 30 degrees is more than enough to hold things. They are less sharp, less fragile, and easier to clean out.
I can’t remember where I saw it but I’ve seen a 3D printed tab that goes behind the tool holder and basically works like a cam to lock the holder in place by snuggling up against the bottom of the wall cleat. Locks it solidly into place but only takes a second (and no tools) to unlock when needed.
I love all your videos and stuff, but this one just made me more sure than ever that I hate French cleats for tool storage. I'm basically of a mind with Matthias wandel, if you're gonna spend a bunch of time making tool holders might as well just screw them directly to the wall in the exact spot you want. He mounts a simple sheet of plywood to his walls, but to make installation easier in my tiny basement shop and look slightly nicer, I use shiplap attached to cleats I secured to the concrete walls.
Is there any reason not to 45° both the top and bottom of the cleat? That way you can use adjustable blocks (also 45°) on the bottom to hold things steady?
I put all my stuff on the wall because of watching too many TH-camrs tbh, haha. It was a terrible idea for me to begin with and never improved no matter how much thought I put into it. Now my shop is very clean and organized into wonderful drawers. Even my drills are in drawers - just feels so much better to me; especially as someone whose shop is in a mixed use garage.
Here's an idea for you about wall space - I can see you're using sound baffles to kill some of the reverb while recording - how about making another french cleat system, but specifically designed for shallower items, then putting a door on it made of one of your sound baffles - same wall space - 2 functions.
It is fun to see you enjoying your new space.
I seen you using a push stick when you were ripping your 45s. I just wanted to share a little thing. I like push sticks as well, but last year I got a little lax on the stick, at the end of a cut, and the end hit the blade and it slammed the stick through my wrist and I had to go get several stitches right across the suicide spot on my wrist. I still prefer a push stick, but I made one out of softer wood than hickory, rounded the handle end off nicely, and I hold it a little different. I just wanted to share this to possibly help someone else avoid the same silly mistake.
just a thought, pocket holes placed that they would drive the screw up, into the bottom side of the cleat?
this would limit the swiss cheesy look on the more visible faces, wouldn't have to clean out dust from the holes, and is probably v secure
Great Video! At first I thought you had over-engineered a solution in search of a problem, but its plain that your cleats beat my peg-board hands-down. I assume that you mounted to the wall studs for the size that you have. Any recommendations about size proportions relative to
load? Just looking for some kind of general rule-of-thumb. Thoughts?
BTW #2 Have you done a video on a simplified approach to making small part Sorts. Yes I know its cheaper to buy the plastic ones, but the wooden cases would probably be more durable and a bit of fun to maske. Thoughts?
To lock things in you can simply it by making small cam locks out of wood. Just run a screw though a slightly oversized hole glue it to the cam and then just half turn the cam into the gap behind the rail or into a dado cut in the bottom of rail. It's quick, permanently attached to the tool holder and locks everything in tight but loosens in under a second if needed. I cut a dado in my original cleat rails but will switch to the offset for the new ones I'm making for my micro shop.
Taking all of this in. Within the next four months I’m selling my home and buying a motorhome to live in, so I’ll be gutting a 24ft travel trailer and turning it into a wood shop. It’ll be an interesting logistical problem, because while I will be upgrading the axles, I have to be cognizant of tool weight and distribution. When I put on my French cleat wall system, I’ll have to design it so that tool holders don’t A) jump off of the wall cleat while I’m rolling over bumpy roads (which you’re design does) … B) prevents the tool holders sliding lengthwise along the wall cleat if I need to suddenly decelerate and C) locks the tools onto the tool holders so that they don’t just jump off of the locked tool holder on the same bumpy roads
I have a design with a block that essentially clamps the bottom of the wall rail like yours, but I went a bit extra on my design with plans on using threaded rod and knurled knobs to slide my clamping block up and down in order to move or remove the tool holders. Coupled with some anti skid material on the clamping blocks take care of problems A) and B). For C) I may have to use magnets for some items and leather or fabric straps and snaps to keep the tools in place. It’s going to be a whole hell of a lot of fun figuring it all out.
Shelves are great. Just be smart when designing them for the stuff you need to store.
is there a reason no one ever 45s the bottom of the cleats too? then the bottom securing block could also just cleat into it
You can also secue them by using a shallow angle vedge between the toolholder cleat and the row abow it.
So that the toolholder is pressed into the cleat instead of just hanging there
My method for securing my french cleats that's faster and simpler is to put a block on the bottom (about where you put yours) with space for a wedge. You can press it into place with your fingers and it grips like the dickens. It only needs to barely move to really bite down hard.
Love the vids, love how accessible they are and love the humour so much I need to make sure I'm not drinking coffee before I start watching them.
What are the recommended dimensions for french cleat width and spacing between the cleats?
I haven't found any recommended dimensions. The cleat should be at least 2" wide and 3" apart for strength and convenience, but even then, you could probably go tighter. It just ends up being more work.
No French cleats for me for a variety of reasons. But I do love my two drawer service cart. My most used tools live there and if I pull something else out to use It gets put on the cart until I am done with it. I can roll it around the shop to where I am working, the tools are not on the bench, but I am not searching all over for where I put down my calipers or that screwdriver.
Noticed that your room and general audio is sounding much improved from your older videos. doesn't change your content...but it makes it sound nicer. good job!!!!!
And why have you never talked about or done some kind of guitar project!?!?!?! Not necessarily making a guitar, but at least a related project would be neat!
A french cleat are super fun and it wall was my first woodworking project, which should tell you how easy they are, just be careful as I didn't round over the edges of the cleats, and boy who would have thought wood could cut you like a knife! Also you can always improve your existing cleat wall holders as you skills get better so its a constant testing and learning project too :D
funny intro as the french cleat tool wall is the most mandatory youtuber/hipster thing there is for a wood worker
Great effort and content. At 78 I just keep my stuff on the bench or in drawers.
I just cut key blocks that are a slight wedge to tap in between the cleat on the tool holder and the rail above it. Then you can just tap them out with without using any screws or other tools.
You can get pretty creative with pegboard as well. Just buy some square bend (L screws) and use them as hooks on your custom tool holders.
since the tool holders are fixed anyway, wouldn´t it be space saving and or surdyer, to make the cleats out ofthiner but harder wood such as beech ?
The biggest drawback of a simple solution like screwing tool holders to plywood is that it doesn't make a good youtube video.
Hi Scott, did you consider a two sided cleat? So 45s on both sides. This allows you to clamp the tool holder to the cleat with a block which also has a 45 degree side. Capturing the cleat from two sides
What was the reason for using a picket for the cleats? Maybe i missed where he answered the question
He said they were 5/8 thick, and said he'd explain later why that was important. If he did explain, I missed it! Others have said pickets are cheap and easily available. I haven't found that to be the case here in Western Australia.
Hello, what is the model number of the DeWalt pin nailer you use? Thank you. Peter
DCN623
@@ScottWalshWoodworking thank you
couldn't find a link to add email for completed chisel holder. but i ordered the STL file even though i don't have a printer lol
Sawing 45's on top and bottom solves the loose hanger issue as it can screw in a block with a 45 on the bottom. That would lock it in tight as well, with little extra effort. And if you a sawing a board into cleat strips you have that double 45 anyway.
I tried cedar fence pickets for a French clear wall. 6 months later I replaced them with pine boards. Cedar is soft and the point on the clear would shred and splinter way too easy.
French cleats seam like more work than it’s worth. Magnets , shelves and pegboard all work good enough for me. I do want the chisel holder though!!!
I have a TINY (6'x6') metal shop, and I use French cleats for my heavier tools, and will likely use pegboard for my smaller and lighter items, like my grinding and cut-off disks, PPE, tape, etc. I actually don't have the room for drawers.
As far as the utility, it's not as fast and maybe not as cheap as other options, but making the rails and hangers requires me to think about what I'm making and get to work. Half of the appeal is in building the system. It's the same reason I like 3D printing and things like the gridfinity system: it's kind of impractical on a large scale but it's fun.
Hello Hello From Canada!!! I like your cleat wall the best out of all the other examples on youtube now. The gap on the top of your cleats looks like it the same for all your accessory and tool holders, so why don't you just use scrap pieces from your bin. If you cut a block to go on top of the "Tool Holder" that fits snugly under the wall cleat above and locks in place because you glue biscuit to your block to lock it in place. I never use the damn biscuits so you are bright for using them on something useful. When you need to move or re-organize a holder, just slide the block out from between and set the block resting on the cleat until you return the holder to that position. It will work really well because of your excellent biscuit shims so the block will be less likely to fall of the top of the cleat until you wedge it back on top of the holder. The cleat wall by your table saw rocks cause all the things you need for the saw are not used every day, but on your wall there is no searching or fumbling of an accessory when you do need it. Keep up the awesome content and I can't wait to see more episodes on your channel, because I'm a newly subscribed viewer. Stay safe, stay healthy and I hope you are as happy as you possibly can be.
🤘😁👍
I think it might be better to offer parametric models for the chisel holders rather than selling them pre-made so you don't have to deal with expensive 3D printing shops.
Then again, people who know how to 3D print and do simple modeling could probably make their own pretty easily.
I guess the approach depends on if you're more trying to profit off of this idea vs trying to be helpful/innovative, and if your viewers are already the maker type.
Good luck!