This is a very thorough review, however there are a few flaws in this test: 1. The UVA range is 315-400 nm and UVB is 280-315 nm. As you pointed out from our patent, we did our testing at 300 nm which is in the middle of UVB range and close to where UVA starts while 400 is the border line for visible light (400 nm to 800 nm). To duplicate our results you should test Optimum Car Wax closer to 300 nm. 2. The durability of Optimum Car Wax is much higher if you use Optimum Car Wash or Optimum No Rinse as is recommended by us. 3. The UV protection of Optimum Car Wax increases with multiple uses due to its additive effect since the UV blockers migrate into the clearcoat finish.
Thanks for the thoughtful reply, I enjoy having a discussion about this and I'm genuinely curious about your products. I'd love to follow up more about this if you want to chat or have a phone call. #1. I'm not sure this is a flaw. UVA ranges up to 400 nanometers and the product claims UVA protection. Clear coat does protect well up to 400nm blocking much of the light. As you noted UVB is a shorter wavelength (280-315 nanometers vs. 315-400), though for some reason on the forums one of your employees claimed otherwise (imgur.com/XTcmZtQ, note the bottle also doesn't say how much to spray). I'm really testing for the longest waves that are the hardest to block, which again clear coat is able to do as are quality sun screens, etc... #2. If you believe your soap is milder (the Optimum Car Wash) I can see your point, it may cause the product to last longer. However, please understand that I need to keep my methodology as consistent as possible. I'm using the same dilution, same shampoo, same pads, etc... The test is done with a very neutral shampoo (Adam's original blue), if you look at the ingredients it's an incredibly simple surfactant and is pH neutral in my test at proper dilution. As for your ONR product, it says it has protectants in it and that would invalidate the purpose of the test. I don't test coatings by "boosting" them with silica based sealants either. #3. I am very curious about this, because your patent methodology does not appear to cover this. From the patent "each panel was divided into two half sections by using a masking tape. One side was treated with the protectant of Example D while the other side was left untreated." Since one day/date is discussed I assume nothing happened over time in this test. Is the idea that the UV inhibitors are absorbed like a polycarbonate lens absorbs them when building lenses for glasses? I would certainly be up for testing that. Let me know what you think the methodology may be like, but I could see dipping a pre-tested clear coated slide in an airtight container of the solution and letting it sit for say a month and then retesting.
Great methodology used in your product tests. I am at 5,000 feet of elevation and would like to find a paint sealant that truly protects against UVA and UVB. Optimum Wax is disappointing. A lot of manufacturers are making exaggerated claims!
Thanks for watching John. Honestly I haven’t seen anything work. I think realistically the microscopic layer is just too thin. Its way thinner than clear coat for instance. The good thing is the coatings and waxes help protect your clear coat from abrasion and wear and the clearcoat will protect your paint.
@@DmitrysGarage if you could get your hands on Prostaff CC Water Gold to test for UV protection it would be great! Manufacturer claim to have it, which claim I take with a grain of salt. BUT this is a quick detailer with unbelievable gloss, very very good hydrophobic properties, increadible ease of application and a reasonable durability (quite impressive for a qd actually). Hoping for a word from you!🙃
I did my own test. Used some small orange cones. Sectioned off a small square on each one, and spread the spray waxes tested on those areas. Then, I left them outside where they would get hit with the sun. I was disappointed with all of the spray waxes. The cones all discolored at about the same rate. The "best" if memory serves me, was Ultima Acrylic Spray Wax. Not by far, but slightly better
Thanks for confirming what Im seeing. I saw similar tests with polished acrylic head light restoration kits. Only clear coat really did anything to protect the headlights vs. the sealants and waxes. There may be small amounts of protectants in these products which may help a little over time with UVB for example, but its pretty obvious the clear coat is the real protectant.
Dmitry, appreciate you doing this research. Saving people time and money applying products for years, which in reality make no difference whatsoever. Speaking of headlight protection specifically, would plastic headlight covers protect from UV light? Some claim they do, but I wonder if they refer to headlights not yellowing or covers not yellowing themselves, but passing all the UV light through and still damaging the headlights. I imagine using your tools all those claims would be pretty easy to test.
Recently found this video and, wow, hat’s off to you for doing these tests. I’m searching for similar information on UV degradation, but for an entirely different purpose- Halloween props! A lot of them are made from polyphenylene ether plastics, which are highly vulnerable to UVA. Embrittlement and fading are constant threats to some of us that leave them out for prolonged periods. I’ve long believed that 303 Aerospace Protectant would help in some measure because… well, they said so! But as I tried looking up tests for it I came up with very little and some doubts started sprouting. I was hoping to find some product that objectively reduced UVA penetration when I stumbled upon your video and it definitely spurred me to create similar tests for my purposes. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, glad you found the video interesting. I imagine these are mostly plastic props and those plastics usually need UV stabilizers and UV blockers built into them. Since these are likely meant to be seasonal props they're probably not being made with UV stability in mind.
Yep, spot on. Some people leave them out all year and have noticed embrittlement that lead to a full mechanical failure of the plastic (parts snapped off). So finding a product that staves off UV degradation has been a quest. Unfortunately my results were basically the same as your’s, using the same Linshang meter. Tested 303 Aerospace Protectant, ArmorAll Extreme Shield, and some others. When I slathered it on, ArmorAll and 303 did show increased UV protection, but when applied as directed the results were the same as a blank control slide.
Thanks Dmitry, from what I have gathered from your videos is that thickness of the protective layer is what matters most, and coatings, waxes etc just don't have the thickness needed to do much protecting from UV. Unfortunately for me there is no shade at work, so there isn't much I can do to prolong the life of my paint out here in the desert. Have you ever thought about doing real world long term UV tests to give a more accurate idea of what difference there is between applying these coatings vs nothing at all? Through all the research I have done it almost seems like applying coatings and sealants to try to protect from long term paint fade is a waste of time. I like keeping my cars for a long time so I am not sure what else I can do besides accept that clearcoat failure is inevitable.
For UV protection in terms of absorption/reflection thicker layers are indeed better. This is why we saw terrific results when testing paint protective films. Wax/coatings that contain UV inhibitors and stabilizers are going to be just a few microns thick and fail to provide meaningful protection based on all technologies I'm currently aware of. Think of it like spraying clear coat, if you dust on a super thin layer the UV protection will be minor at best. The only thing that I can definitively say waxes and coatings do in terms of UV protection is keeping other oxidative agents that react with UV from touching your clear coat directly. Even keeping water off the paint/clear coat helps, because water and UV are worse than just UV. In my more recent tests I've used a UV-A weathering device which simulates the testing you're talking about. It uses powerful UV-A bulbs to simulate days/weeks/years of UV weathering. I've yet to find a product that shows any difference to control slides. Clear coat definitely makes a difference, but eventually burns through too. I think some realistic options for a car that has to stay outside are: 1. Doing all the washing/cleaning/waxing you would normally do. While it may not do much for UV it still keeps oxidative agents off, and protects your clear coat from abrasion and chemical interactions with other substances (grime/droppings/etc...) 2. You can consider a UV rated car cover to use when you park, but it's pretty annoying to set those up. 3. I have shown that PPF does indeed absorb UV-A. You may consider PPF, though it can be pricey and they may need to get switched out every so many years as they will eventually start to lose their UV protection/stability and turn yellow. They can also over time stick to and damage the underlying paint, though I believe most newer high end PPFs have largely addressed this, but I'm not an expert. 4. The most practical thing is probably getting a cheap beater/commuter car. Many guys do that so they can keep their project/toy/weekend cars looking good.
Yvan states that carnauba wax can absorb minerals in water, and when you wash the car and carnauba wears off, the minerals will also wear off, hence preventing water spots. Could you do a comparison video by trying this, against maybe a sealant or ceramic spray, by prepping a panel, using the respective products, sprinkle some water on the panel, let it bake in the sun maybe two three weeks, then wash off, to see if this is true? That would be a really great test to see
10:24, good to know that Optimum Car Wax favors water sheeting than water beading. The obsession of water beading is bizarre, since water beads with minerals or contaminants are the precursors of water spotting on vehicle's paint, glass, and trims.
Thanks for watching :-). You mean like the polyester opaque ones? If they’re opaque poly they almost certainly work. Clear ones (which I’m not aware of personally) may or may not work. However, it’s a whole lot easier to make a mil or two thick material UV protective vs a micrometer or two thick material like a coating or spray wax.
@@DmitrysGarage Well some claim UV protection and I am wondering if others don't shield it as well. Right now I have some generic car cover that is sort of gray canvass-y but was thinking of getting one that says it protects for UV rays. I'm going to try to wax really well and hope that protects the car. it's got a few chips in the paint.
@@ler5299 Honestly man if it's opaque (gray canvas) it's blocking UV. It's like how you don't get sunburned through your clothes unless it's a very light shirt that you can see through. As long as it's not see-through it should be fine. I suspect some are adding "UV protection" the same way vodka manufacturers are putting "Gluten Free" on their bottles. All vodka is gluten free if it's really vodka, heck all distilled spirits should be gluten free if they're additive free (no flavorings, etc...) So i think it may be kind of like that, it's already a quality of a canvas cover, so may as well list it as a feature.
Interesting and a great video! It's the same with ceramic coatings that's fully cured that they don't protect from UVA? Have you tested PTFA like Soft99 Fusso Coat? Just since it's another kind of protection. But very interesting results for sure. Thanks for sharing your work!
Yep, I do have a list here of the newer test methods: dmitrysgarage.com/wax-testing-results The older test results can be found here: dmitrysgarage.com/wax-shootout
Absolutely love your whole shootout with the info available on your website. One product I'd be interested in for review is 303 Speed Detailer. Unlike the Nano Spray Coating you reviewed it boasts "superior UV protection to prevent fading"... of course highly unlikely to score higher than some of the other products you've tested but you never know, and of course would be great to see how it weighs in on gloss and slickness. I'm currently comparing it with Xtreme Solutions Topper, just FYI.
Dmitry, i wonder why people like 303 aerospace protectant as its main claim to fame is UV protection? boggles my mind. Assuming that product is full of it as well regarding UV blocking.
Hi nice video. I would like to see such very scientific tests on Auto Fanatic car care products. The brand is very famous among car lovers. Specially their 007 Gloss enhancer and 007 snow storm car shampoo.
Please please please do UV testing on either Cerakote trim coat and BLAK dry-seal. Cerakote seems to just be a ceramic coating style product for weather stripping, which I fear doesn't do anything to block UV, however BLAK has actual pigmentation in it, which leads me to believe it may provide some UV protection. Would love to see for sure.
ONR washes will likely help it last longer. It’s nice for in between; but it’s not the greatest lol. I break it out from time to time but not for super long term protection.
My dear Dmitry, I need your advice: I’m changing the headlights of my W203 Mercedes, because both are very dull in the inside... Wich product you believe is the best (in your knowledge) to protect those (costly) headlights? I have the CarPro Dlux but I don’t know if there is a better product (Cerakote Trim?). Thank you my dear friend and, as always, kind regards from Mallorca, Spain 👍👍👍
Joaquin, so great to hear from you my friend :). I would suggest any good ceramic coating such as the Adams Graphene liquid or spray, or the Blackfire Ceramic coating. These will protect the finish on the headlights from abrasion. The headlights already have UV protection built in, but it fades over time. I have not found any product to offer any significant UVA protection. One option instead of changing your lights is to take your dull lights, sand down and polish them. Are you sure the dullness is on the inside? Typically it is the outer layer that fades. If you can sand them smooth and then buff/polish clear you can spray paint it with automotive clear coat which does provide UVA protection. There are many headlight polishing kits. You can use their abrasive and polishing contents and skip their protective coating and use a standard clear coat which will work much much better. Hope this helps!
@@DmitrysGarage Yes my friend, is in the inside. My plan is to install the new ones and try to dissasemble the olds to polish (or change) the inner surface. I have the Turtle Wax Hybrid solution spray sealant, that seems to be very strong and durable. is this sealant good enough for you? Thank you my friend!
@@joaquinlombardi1454 Very strange that they became faded inside! I hope you're able to clean them up. Turtle Wax Hybrid is a solid product, it will work well to prevent abrasion. Good luck!
This is a very thorough review, however there are a few flaws in this test: 1. The UVA range is 315-400 nm and UVB is 280-315 nm. As you pointed out from our patent, we did our testing at 300 nm which is in the middle of UVB range and close to where UVA starts while 400 is the border line for visible light (400 nm to 800 nm). To duplicate our results you should test Optimum Car Wax closer to 300 nm. 2. The durability of Optimum Car Wax is much higher if you use Optimum Car Wash or Optimum No Rinse as is recommended by us. 3. The UV protection of Optimum Car Wax increases with multiple uses due to its additive effect since the UV blockers migrate into the clearcoat finish.
Thanks for the thoughtful reply, I enjoy having a discussion about this and I'm genuinely curious about your products. I'd love to follow up more about this if you want to chat or have a phone call.
#1. I'm not sure this is a flaw. UVA ranges up to 400 nanometers and the product claims UVA protection. Clear coat does protect well up to 400nm blocking much of the light. As you noted UVB is a shorter wavelength (280-315 nanometers vs. 315-400), though for some reason on the forums one of your employees claimed otherwise (imgur.com/XTcmZtQ, note the bottle also doesn't say how much to spray). I'm really testing for the longest waves that are the hardest to block, which again clear coat is able to do as are quality sun screens, etc...
#2. If you believe your soap is milder (the Optimum Car Wash) I can see your point, it may cause the product to last longer. However, please understand that I need to keep my methodology as consistent as possible. I'm using the same dilution, same shampoo, same pads, etc... The test is done with a very neutral shampoo (Adam's original blue), if you look at the ingredients it's an incredibly simple surfactant and is pH neutral in my test at proper dilution. As for your ONR product, it says it has protectants in it and that would invalidate the purpose of the test. I don't test coatings by "boosting" them with silica based sealants either.
#3. I am very curious about this, because your patent methodology does not appear to cover this. From the patent "each panel was divided into two half sections by using a masking tape. One side was treated with the protectant of Example D while the other side was left untreated." Since one day/date is discussed I assume nothing happened over time in this test. Is the idea that the UV inhibitors are absorbed like a polycarbonate lens absorbs them when building lenses for glasses? I would certainly be up for testing that. Let me know what you think the methodology may be like, but I could see dipping a pre-tested clear coated slide in an airtight container of the solution and letting it sit for say a month and then retesting.
booo
Really like the UV protection test, no one else does it. Awesome keep it up
Great methodology used in your product tests. I am at 5,000 feet of elevation and would like to find a paint sealant that truly protects against UVA and UVB. Optimum Wax is disappointing. A lot of manufacturers are making exaggerated claims!
Thanks for watching John. Honestly I haven’t seen anything work. I think realistically the microscopic layer is just too thin. Its way thinner than clear coat for instance. The good thing is the coatings and waxes help protect your clear coat from abrasion and wear and the clearcoat will protect your paint.
I'm in Denver where the sun is brutal. I think maybe paint protection film will protect against UV
@@DJR5280 Film is definitely more likely to provide protection, will be something I look into in the future.
@@DmitrysGarage if you could get your hands on Prostaff CC Water Gold to test for UV protection it would be great! Manufacturer claim to have it, which claim I take with a grain of salt. BUT this is a quick detailer with unbelievable gloss, very very good hydrophobic properties, increadible ease of application and a reasonable durability (quite impressive for a qd actually). Hoping for a word from you!🙃
Always look forward to you posting videos! Don't stop!
Thanks EJ, appreciate your viewership. I don't plan on quitting any time soon :).
I did my own test. Used some small orange cones. Sectioned off a small square on each one, and spread the spray waxes tested on those areas. Then, I left them outside where they would get hit with the sun. I was disappointed with all of the spray waxes. The cones all discolored at about the same rate. The "best" if memory serves me, was Ultima Acrylic Spray Wax. Not by far, but slightly better
Thanks for confirming what Im seeing. I saw similar tests with polished acrylic head light restoration kits. Only clear coat really did anything to protect the headlights vs. the sealants and waxes. There may be small amounts of protectants in these products which may help a little over time with UVB for example, but its pretty obvious the clear coat is the real protectant.
@@DmitrysGarage You're welcome. Glad we can share this kind of information. I suspect you're right.
Dmitry, appreciate you doing this research. Saving people time and money applying products for years, which in reality make no difference whatsoever. Speaking of headlight protection specifically, would plastic headlight covers protect from UV light? Some claim they do, but I wonder if they refer to headlights not yellowing or covers not yellowing themselves, but passing all the UV light through and still damaging the headlights. I imagine using your tools all those claims would be pretty easy to test.
Recently found this video and, wow, hat’s off to you for doing these tests. I’m searching for similar information on UV degradation, but for an entirely different purpose- Halloween props! A lot of them are made from polyphenylene ether plastics, which are highly vulnerable to UVA. Embrittlement and fading are constant threats to some of us that leave them out for prolonged periods. I’ve long believed that 303 Aerospace Protectant would help in some measure because… well, they said so! But as I tried looking up tests for it I came up with very little and some doubts started sprouting. I was hoping to find some product that objectively reduced UVA penetration when I stumbled upon your video and it definitely spurred me to create similar tests for my purposes. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, glad you found the video interesting. I imagine these are mostly plastic props and those plastics usually need UV stabilizers and UV blockers built into them. Since these are likely meant to be seasonal props they're probably not being made with UV stability in mind.
Yep, spot on. Some people leave them out all year and have noticed embrittlement that lead to a full mechanical failure of the plastic (parts snapped off). So finding a product that staves off UV degradation has been a quest. Unfortunately my results were basically the same as your’s, using the same Linshang meter. Tested 303 Aerospace Protectant, ArmorAll Extreme Shield, and some others. When I slathered it on, ArmorAll and 303 did show increased UV protection, but when applied as directed the results were the same as a blank control slide.
Very thought out video as always-keep up the great work Dmitry
Would love to see Optimum’s response or reasoning
Would definitely be interesting to hear their position.
Love how honest u are. Keep up God's work. Even when I think it's doing good, ur like "NO, it ain't that good". Lol
Love it 😂
I try to be as transparent as possible :). Thanks for watching!
@@DmitrysGarage and that's why I'll keep watching. 🤟
Thanks Dmitry, from what I have gathered from your videos is that thickness of the protective layer is what matters most, and coatings, waxes etc just don't have the thickness needed to do much protecting from UV. Unfortunately for me there is no shade at work, so there isn't much I can do to prolong the life of my paint out here in the desert. Have you ever thought about doing real world long term UV tests to give a more accurate idea of what difference there is between applying these coatings vs nothing at all? Through all the research I have done it almost seems like applying coatings and sealants to try to protect from long term paint fade is a waste of time. I like keeping my cars for a long time so I am not sure what else I can do besides accept that clearcoat failure is inevitable.
For UV protection in terms of absorption/reflection thicker layers are indeed better. This is why we saw terrific results when testing paint protective films. Wax/coatings that contain UV inhibitors and stabilizers are going to be just a few microns thick and fail to provide meaningful protection based on all technologies I'm currently aware of. Think of it like spraying clear coat, if you dust on a super thin layer the UV protection will be minor at best. The only thing that I can definitively say waxes and coatings do in terms of UV protection is keeping other oxidative agents that react with UV from touching your clear coat directly. Even keeping water off the paint/clear coat helps, because water and UV are worse than just UV.
In my more recent tests I've used a UV-A weathering device which simulates the testing you're talking about. It uses powerful UV-A bulbs to simulate days/weeks/years of UV weathering. I've yet to find a product that shows any difference to control slides. Clear coat definitely makes a difference, but eventually burns through too.
I think some realistic options for a car that has to stay outside are:
1. Doing all the washing/cleaning/waxing you would normally do. While it may not do much for UV it still keeps oxidative agents off, and protects your clear coat from abrasion and chemical interactions with other substances (grime/droppings/etc...)
2. You can consider a UV rated car cover to use when you park, but it's pretty annoying to set those up.
3. I have shown that PPF does indeed absorb UV-A. You may consider PPF, though it can be pricey and they may need to get switched out every so many years as they will eventually start to lose their UV protection/stability and turn yellow. They can also over time stick to and damage the underlying paint, though I believe most newer high end PPFs have largely addressed this, but I'm not an expert.
4. The most practical thing is probably getting a cheap beater/commuter car. Many guys do that so they can keep their project/toy/weekend cars looking good.
@@DmitrysGaragewhew the prices of ppf these days you might as well buy a Nissan versa and drive it to work lol
Best testing and great video quality
Yvan states that carnauba wax can absorb minerals in water, and when you wash the car and carnauba wears off, the minerals will also wear off, hence preventing water spots. Could you do a comparison video by trying this, against maybe a sealant or ceramic spray, by prepping a panel, using the respective products, sprinkle some water on the panel, let it bake in the sun maybe two three weeks, then wash off, to see if this is true? That would be a really great test to see
Nice review 👌
Glad you liked it
10:24, good to know that Optimum Car Wax favors water sheeting than water beading.
The obsession of water beading is bizarre, since water beads with minerals or contaminants are the precursors of water spotting on vehicle's paint, glass, and trims.
Hi there, does turtle wax seal and shine have UV protection? Greetings from Philippines
Thanks for this. Would love to see a video testing the claims of UV car covers.
Thanks for watching :-). You mean like the polyester opaque ones? If they’re opaque poly they almost certainly work. Clear ones (which I’m not aware of personally) may or may not work. However, it’s a whole lot easier to make a mil or two thick material UV protective vs a micrometer or two thick material like a coating or spray wax.
@@DmitrysGarage Well some claim UV protection and I am wondering if others don't shield it as well. Right now I have some generic car cover that is sort of gray canvass-y but was thinking of getting one that says it protects for UV rays.
I'm going to try to wax really well and hope that protects the car. it's got a few chips in the paint.
@@ler5299 Honestly man if it's opaque (gray canvas) it's blocking UV. It's like how you don't get sunburned through your clothes unless it's a very light shirt that you can see through. As long as it's not see-through it should be fine. I suspect some are adding "UV protection" the same way vodka manufacturers are putting "Gluten Free" on their bottles. All vodka is gluten free if it's really vodka, heck all distilled spirits should be gluten free if they're additive free (no flavorings, etc...) So i think it may be kind of like that, it's already a quality of a canvas cover, so may as well list it as a feature.
Interesting and a great video!
It's the same with ceramic coatings that's fully cured that they don't protect from UVA?
Have you tested PTFA like Soft99 Fusso Coat? Just since it's another kind of protection. But very interesting results for sure.
Thanks for sharing your work!
Opti seal and optimum car wax are amazing I love all there products
Great video explaining what we should expect from what we purchase. Do you put out a list of best to worst polishes?
Yep, I do have a list here of the newer test methods: dmitrysgarage.com/wax-testing-results
The older test results can be found here: dmitrysgarage.com/wax-shootout
Absolutely love your whole shootout with the info available on your website. One product I'd be interested in for review is 303 Speed Detailer. Unlike the Nano Spray Coating you reviewed it boasts "superior UV protection to prevent fading"... of course highly unlikely to score higher than some of the other products you've tested but you never know, and of course would be great to see how it weighs in on gloss and slickness. I'm currently comparing it with Xtreme Solutions Topper, just FYI.
Dmitry, i wonder why people like 303 aerospace protectant as its main claim to fame is UV protection? boggles my mind. Assuming that product is full of it as well regarding UV blocking.
Πατρίδα, μπορείς να δοκιμάσεις το Carlack 68 από Ευρώπη? Λέει ότι είναι προϊόν που χρησιμοποιείται και για προστασία του χρώματος των αεροσκαφών.
What it is with all these products is miss selling.. they are actually lieing on the packaging..
Nice video, thank you!
Hi nice video. I would like to see such very scientific tests on Auto Fanatic car care products. The brand is very famous among car lovers. Specially their 007 Gloss enhancer and 007 snow storm car shampoo.
I'll get that added to ever growing list of products to test :). Appreciate your viewership!
So I have this and its useless? Doesn't look good, no UVA/UVB protection and below par longevity?
I wasn’t a fan of it. Its also a bit of an old product at this point, I think the tech has moved on.
Dmitry just as a test have you tried a home made mix of Carnauba and SPF100 sunscreen I have a friend that swears it works.
Please please please do UV testing on either Cerakote trim coat and BLAK dry-seal. Cerakote seems to just be a ceramic coating style product for weather stripping, which I fear doesn't do anything to block UV, however BLAK has actual pigmentation in it, which leads me to believe it may provide some UV protection. Would love to see for sure.
Will definitely add to my project list. The cerakote has been on the radar, but not blak. Thanks for watching!
I love to use the Lost touch megs as drying aid, do I need to replace it by this wax?
Hello, Whats the best regular spray wax with UV protection?
I have not found one that actually works. What they do is protect your clear coat from abrasion and the clear coat protects from UV.
@@DmitrysGarage thank you
what about letting the product cure ow dwell on the slide a while before wiping?????
That could be another test, but the testing was done in accordance with what is in the patent and instructions.
ONR washes will likely help it last longer. It’s nice for in between; but it’s not the greatest lol. I break it out from time to time but not for super long term protection.
Yea i just generally found it to be kinda meh
@@DmitrysGarage totally get it. Hoping to get my hands on the new Opti-seal, added sio2. Hoping it can keep up with newer stuff
My dear Dmitry, I need your advice:
I’m changing the headlights of my W203 Mercedes, because both are very dull in the inside...
Wich product you believe is the best (in your knowledge) to protect those (costly) headlights?
I have the CarPro Dlux but I don’t know if there is a better product (Cerakote Trim?).
Thank you my dear friend and, as always, kind regards from Mallorca, Spain 👍👍👍
Joaquin, so great to hear from you my friend :). I would suggest any good ceramic coating such as the Adams Graphene liquid or spray, or the Blackfire Ceramic coating. These will protect the finish on the headlights from abrasion. The headlights already have UV protection built in, but it fades over time. I have not found any product to offer any significant UVA protection. One option instead of changing your lights is to take your dull lights, sand down and polish them. Are you sure the dullness is on the inside? Typically it is the outer layer that fades. If you can sand them smooth and then buff/polish clear you can spray paint it with automotive clear coat which does provide UVA protection. There are many headlight polishing kits. You can use their abrasive and polishing contents and skip their protective coating and use a standard clear coat which will work much much better. Hope this helps!
@@DmitrysGarage Yes my friend, is in the inside.
My plan is to install the new ones and try to dissasemble the olds to polish (or change) the inner surface.
I have the Turtle Wax Hybrid solution spray sealant, that seems to be very strong and durable. is this sealant good enough for you?
Thank you my friend!
@@joaquinlombardi1454 Very strange that they became faded inside! I hope you're able to clean them up. Turtle Wax Hybrid is a solid product, it will work well to prevent abrasion. Good luck!
@@DmitrysGarage Thank you again my friend👍
Can you test optimums new formula Opti Coat hyper Seal?
I'll add it to my list!
Very important 🌞
Was going to buy this yesterday and glad I decided not to.
So it sucks lol