followed this and had no issues (besides finding I needed to replace my upper ball joint/control arms which was easy to do) Thanks for these step by step videos!
For all of you naysayers, I installed a three and a half inch strut spacer, and added a quarter inch lean spacer, which gives it an extra half inch, for a total of 4-in leveling lift, installed brand new upper control arms with ball joints, put a block spacer in the rear, installed my 35-in all-terrain tires. The truck sits nice and drives excellent, contrary to popular belief! Everyone says you can only go as high as 3 inches, so I'm glad I didn't listen to the naysayers! Oh by the way I have a 2012 f150 four-wheel drive of course!
Thank you very informative video, I installed a 3-in leveling kit, I also changed out the upper control arm but the upper control arm is still rubbing against the strut screen
Skipping steps shown in this video may result in damage to the 4WD system or other suspension components. Taking the time to do the correct steps pays off! -Adam
‼️WARNING‼️ This requires more after market!!!!!!!! Parts. Notice the after market upper control arm he didn’t saying anything about!! Well you need it!!!!!
It depends. Measure the distance from the top of your wheel well, to the ground, for your front and your rear. If the rear is 1" higher than the front, then you need a 1" higher rear spacer to make things level. If the difference is 1/2", then a 3.5" front and 3" rear will level your F150. I have a 2013 FX4 and the difference is only 1/2" (with a 200 lb camper shell installed), so a 3.5" front spacer and 3" rear spacer would level out my truck - your truck may be different. But once you are looking into anything more than 2.5" in the front, the change in angle on your CV joint becomes a concern. And soon, with 3"+ lengths, the reach/angle on the upper control arm also becomes an issue. In the rear, larger spacers mean you should replace the rear shocks because they need to be longer. So if you are looking for 3.5" in the front, you should be looking for a suspension lift solution - the are available up to 4" with no cutting/welding.
@@fordnut4914 Leveling anything over 2.5 inches puts too much stress on the steering angle and WILL cause premature wear to steering components. How do I know? It happened to me.
You don’t have to pull vacuum to pull out the CV. It just slides off engaged or not - he even proves that when he shows you how it works. Not sure why he spent so much time on showing this. Completely unnecessary. I’ve done 100 IWE vacuum hubs on these Fords - never pulled vacuum.
We like to show the correct way to do installs so people at home don't run the risk of damaging their truck. Everyone has their own way of doing things, but skipping key steps of the process can be dangerous and costly. - Adam
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 87 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ก้องชัย vs โชคปรีชา"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YN6e7HVnekw/mqdefault.jpg)
followed this and had no issues (besides finding I needed to replace my upper ball joint/control arms which was easy to do) Thanks for these step by step videos!
Thanks for watching! -Zach
What kind of upper control arms did u get?
The rust!!! Holy crap!!! I’ll stay here in the southwest thank you very much.
Gotta love the northeast. 😅 -Zach
glad im in the southeast
For all of you naysayers, I installed a three and a half inch strut spacer, and added a quarter inch lean spacer, which gives it an extra half inch, for a total of 4-in leveling lift, installed brand new upper control arms with ball joints, put a block spacer in the rear, installed my 35-in all-terrain tires. The truck sits nice and drives excellent, contrary to popular belief! Everyone says you can only go as high as 3 inches, so I'm glad I didn't listen to the naysayers! Oh by the way I have a 2012 f150 four-wheel drive of course!
Which UCA did you use?
I am trying to correct some of the angle on mine
I think the issues start emerging more as you start going off road, and as you start getting more miles on the setup.
I can’t fit a 3inch level on my 2013 what parts do I need to buy to fit it
The problem isn't it working, the problem is the cv angles ripping boots
Thank you very informative video, I installed a 3-in leveling kit, I also changed out the upper control arm but the upper control arm is still rubbing against the strut screen
Where can I buy the vacuum thing for the fourhweel drive so I can do this
Are these oem ( stock ) upper control arm or upgraded ones ?
These are an OE style replacement. While they are not factory arms, they do not alter the height or process of installing the lift in any way.
@@americantrucks so it’s just a replacement correct ? They aren’t the 2’-4’ or 0-4’ lift ones ??
what upper control arms do u recommend
Let me save you some steps. Remove UCA nut,sway bar link, and tie rod end.swing knuckle out of the way and remove the strut. Done.🇵🇱🇺🇸😷
Wish you made a vid of it
Skipping steps shown in this video may result in damage to the 4WD system or other suspension components. Taking the time to do the correct steps pays off! -Adam
How can i tell what front lift spacers i have, what are the measurement of the lift?
Where can I get the washer installed in the upper control arm ? And upper control arms are those?
Why does my spacer received called a three inch lift kit when the front spacer is 2 inches tall and the rears are two and a half?
I DID IT.
Whats the height of the spacer itself?
This does not fit some fx4 4x4 models. I just took the whole thing apart and it would go on but steering knuckles won’t touch upper control arms.
Why can’t I put it on my 14 F-150?
‼️WARNING‼️ This requires more after market!!!!!!!! Parts. Notice the after market upper control arm he didn’t saying anything about!! Well you need it!!!!!
Can I fit 35 12 wides with this
I did this and now there a werid grinding noice
How thick is the actual spacer itself
I ordered a three inch so called kit the front round spacers are only 2 inches thick the rears 2 and a half ? Is this normal?
@@williamrussellmorley yes. Due to suspension geometrics the ratio of lift to the size of the actual spacer is not 1:1
Will a 3.5 front and 3 inch rear level my f150?
No
It depends. Measure the distance from the top of your wheel well, to the ground, for your front and your rear. If the rear is 1" higher than the front, then you need a 1" higher rear spacer to make things level. If the difference is 1/2", then a 3.5" front and 3" rear will level your F150. I have a 2013 FX4 and the difference is only 1/2" (with a 200 lb camper shell installed), so a 3.5" front spacer and 3" rear spacer would level out my truck - your truck may be different. But once you are looking into anything more than 2.5" in the front, the change in angle on your CV joint becomes a concern. And soon, with 3"+ lengths, the reach/angle on the upper control arm also becomes an issue. In the rear, larger spacers mean you should replace the rear shocks because they need to be longer. So if you are looking for 3.5" in the front, you should be looking for a suspension lift solution - the are available up to 4" with no cutting/welding.
Where do you find the pump?
Any auto parts store or amazon should carry something like that. -Justin
So nobody's gonna ask about the washer he put on the upper control arm ball joint?
I think, i stay with the 2.5 leveling kit. I have a 2 wd..
I guess it's kinda randomly asking but do anyone know a good website to stream new movies online ?
@@iraralph9750 🤦 WTF?
Yeah I’ll just pay someone to do this job 🤔
Not a bad idea either! Thanks for watching! -Zach
My abs broke in it….
Anything over a 2.5” level you might as well just get a lift.
For what
@@fordnut4914 Leveling anything over 2.5 inches puts too much stress on the steering angle and WILL cause premature wear to steering components. How do I know? It happened to me.
РУССКИЕ СУБТИТРЫ ПОСТАВ.
You don’t have to pull vacuum to pull out the CV. It just slides off engaged or not - he even proves that when he shows you how it works. Not sure why he spent so much time on showing this. Completely unnecessary. I’ve done 100 IWE vacuum hubs on these Fords - never pulled vacuum.
Good lord WAAAY too many steps. Remove the tie rod from the lower control arm, remove the lower strut bolt and the 3 nuts at the top.
How do you compress the strut to fit it in there?
We like to show the correct way to do installs so people at home don't run the risk of damaging their truck. Everyone has their own way of doing things, but skipping key steps of the process can be dangerous and costly. - Adam