@@americantrucks Lol Adam you're a much better mechanic than a carpenter, like the old saying " You're like lightning , never hit the same spot twice". keep up the good work and I do appreciate your vids...
So many unnecessary parts removed for these kits. I’ve done full coilover and coilover spacer leveling kits and never had to do half the stuff done in this video. None of my installs had any issues or caused any issues either.
High quality video - love at @3:26 in the video how you go through ALL the required AND optional but highly suggested tools used to do the job. Kudos and THANK YOU, wished every TH-cam video did this - and quality of TH-cam content would go even further up on helpful bar.
Just had mine done, the 2.5 was just little to much on my 2018 F150, remember one has to have a Wheel alignment after, I'll have to buy some Firestone Air Bags to level it out
If anyone is reading this. I have fully stock 2013 f150. I bought the leveling kit (2.5 inch) exactly the same ones from the video. Im have a concern. After installing it, my upper control arm is rubbing on the coil spring. I’m not sure why. Am I supposed to upgrade upper control arms too? Can anyone point towards the right direction.
What is the difference between both the 2.5 mammoth leveling kits on your site? This one runs around 40 while the other runs around 100. Is it just the difference in materials?
I have a 2023 f150 Tremor with this 2.5 inch lift (factory installed). When making a full turn or u-turn, the front end makes a single pop sound (during the turn) (sounds like a tie rod pop). Any idea why?
What’s a cotter pin? He calls it a “retainer pin” lol. He also didn’t torque anything down, but gave a warning at the end for everything to be torqued. Kinda hard to do with a “retainer pin” installed and everything blasted back on with a 1/2” impact.
@@cap12206 First off this was a demonstration, it wasn't meant to be perfect, just to show you the process on how to do the work. He did bring up torqueing everything per specs for your vehicle at the end. Second, you don't torque castle nuts. The purpose of the cotter pin is to hold the nut and keep it from loosening up. The proper way to tighten a castle nut is to seat the joint with the castle nut until it's snugged firmly but not overly tight. Then look and see where the hole in the stud is in orientation to the slots in the castle nut. If you do not see the hole, loosen(never tighten) the castle nut slowly until you see the hole line up with a slot in the castle nut. The amount you loosen the nut will be very minimal and won't make a difference. Once lined up install the cotter pin. Bend the part sticking through around the nut or over the end of the stud. This prevents the cotter pin from falling out from vibrations. Also cotter pins are safe to reuse at least once but should be replaced after that unless it becomes weak or breaks after bending the pin to remove it.
@@Lugare2011 I’ve been a licensed airframe & power plant mechanic for over 20 years. EVERYTHING has a torque rating, cotter pins are NEVER reused, I’m fully aware how a castle nut works. And it’s not good practice to assemble front end suspension and steering parts with a half inch impact. This is why I rarely if ever allow an automotive “mechanic” to touch my vehicles. In my industry if I did something so blatantly wrong and caused an accident I’d go to jail. I’m also required to fill out a maintenance log and specify the approved repair method used(by citing a repair manual), hardware used, torque specs used, s/n and cal date of any calibrated tools used, and a sign off by a licensed inspector.
@@cap12206 Blah blah blah I'm a licensed blah blah blah. It's funny how everyone on TH-cam is a licensed or professional whatever lmao. Oh and cotter pins ARE reused.
@@Lugare2011 I work on Ag equipment and deal with the re used mangled up cotter pins on customer jobs that are a bitch to get out sometimes. If a customer or other mechanic are too cheap to replace a few cent up to a dollar for some of the larger cotter pins. I question what else a guys trying to save money on when they worked on something before I had to sort the mess out when it failed again. I've even seen guys use a construction nail bent over, if they didn't have the a new pin when the old one broke the ends off, but hey at least they tried to stop it falling apart doing it .
He is using a vacuum pump but he keeps saying 24 pounds of pressure. Vacuum is measured in inches of mercury, so he is pulling a vacuum of 24 inches of hg (mercury).
is it really needed to take off the brake caliper? Seems like you're adding alot more unneeded steps. Ive seen guys do it on the same year truck without removing brake caliper
Would strongly encourage watching the install for the Motofab mounts posted by American trucks if doing any leveling kit. This video missed a few key steps that are covered in the other video. Also many of the nut sizes are different.
So I used this kit and want to go with 35's. I don't want my truck all wide like the mall crawlers that never see dirt. I would also like to stay with my stock 20" rims. Any idea of what size tires I could fit under my truck without too much modification?
Well I bought my truck with a 3 inch leveling kit. Had to replace a bunch of stuff including the spacer. When I went to have the alignment done they couldn't get the camber correct. The tech said they see it all the time. He told me unless you're changing to an upgraded knuckle you're wasting your time and money.
Yes the factory rake is for when you have weight in the bed or a heavy tongue weight it will keep the truck level when the rear squats. With the truck leveled with no weight in the bed or hitch then add weight the front rises rear squats
So I just added what I’m guessing is the last version of the mammoth 2.5” lift to my truck. The offset triangle looking kit? Is there a difference between that version and this version? In quality or in life? I know I spent $99 on that kit so $30 kinda stings especially since it’s been less than two months since I purchased it.
No differance just how they upgraded the design to look more factory. My son has the triangles and I have the solid spacer. Does the exact same thing. Oh We both run 35 x 12.5 x 20- rims and tires.
"carefully tap the rotor to dislodge it" Then proceeds to beat the remaining life out of the rotor lol
Firmmmmmmmly grasp it....FIRMLY GRASP IT!!
"Carefully tap the rotor to dislodge it." - Ol Boy winds up like Babe Ruth.
you literally took the words outta my mouth lmao. I paused the video to comment that and i seen your comment up top xD
Sometimes you don't get the results you need when you ask it nicely. -Adam
@@americantrucks Lol Adam you're a much better mechanic than a carpenter, like the old saying " You're like lightning , never hit the same spot twice". keep up the good work and I do appreciate your vids...
jesus thats a ton of work for some spacers lol. if imma spend all day might as well change the struts completely to a better set
So many unnecessary parts removed for these kits. I’ve done full coilover and coilover spacer leveling kits and never had to do half the stuff done in this video. None of my installs had any issues or caused any issues either.
I agree. I didn't even use the pressure thing. WTF?
Same. I just loosened up control arm and used a pry bar for the struts and good ol fashioned muscle
Such a detailed step-by-step and perfectly angeled video, never did I doubt where and how it was done! Thank you A+
Thanks for watching! -Zach
High quality video - love at @3:26 in the video how you go through ALL the required AND optional but highly suggested tools used to do the job. Kudos and THANK YOU, wished every TH-cam video did this - and quality of TH-cam content would go even further up on helpful bar.
That dark blue Ford with chrome bumpers on it chrome wheels that's the one I want all the 5.08.
5.0 Coyote engine is the one I would want my new Ford pickup truck
Give me some chrome wheels on that new Ford pickup truck and a coyote engine in it that's a real Ford right there
I drive an old Ford pickup truck with a 5.0 boss in it
Just had mine done, the 2.5 was just little to much on my 2018 F150, remember one has to have a Wheel alignment after, I'll have to buy some Firestone Air Bags to level it out
So your saying you need to add to the rear after installing the 2.5 up front? Maybe like another 1'' or 1.5'' in the rear?
so do u think it’s too much for the 2015 f150?
I just installed this myself on my 16 f150 xtr 4X. Have a little grinding noise which I’m hoping is just dirty on my rotors.
F-150 all the way boys
If anyone is reading this. I have fully stock 2013 f150. I bought the leveling kit (2.5 inch) exactly the same ones from the video. Im have a concern. After installing it, my upper control arm is rubbing on the coil spring. I’m not sure why. Am I supposed to upgrade upper control arms too? Can anyone point towards the right direction.
Did u ever figure out how to fix this cause this just happens to me after install and I have no clue what’s wrong or where to even start to fix it
@@dylanhadeka9348 no I haven’t. The black rubber boot popped
Anyone know what those rims are called?
Do I need to install adjustable caster and camber bolts when I do this?
Not one of these how to`s have torque settings !!! I have looked everywhere for them. Anyone know where they are ?
look at 1a autos coil spring replacement video, they say it in there
What is the difference between both the 2.5 mammoth leveling kits on your site? This one runs around 40 while the other runs around 100. Is it just the difference in materials?
Correct.
you failed to mention that you have to compress the coil and spin it to align with the offset of the spacer studs.
Or you can swap the strut side to side same part
Do I need to use a block in the back if I’m doing 2.5 levelling Kit in the front (Mammoth Kit)?
No Haul at all. Thanks
I bet that you do
How does that compare to the bds kit?
No rubbing?
I have a 2023 f150 Tremor with this 2.5 inch lift (factory installed). When making a full turn or u-turn, the front end makes a single pop sound (during the turn) (sounds like a tie rod pop). Any idea why?
will this fit on a 2015 f150 i don’t want this to be too much and have the front end stick up
more then the baxk
Can I fit a 22x12 -51 with a 33x21.5 setup with this?
What is the difference in steps if your truck is 2 wheel drive? Just removing the rotor but skip vacuum stuff?
Is the rust normal ?
Wait can you go back to step one? I got lost after the second step
What’s the labor estimate on something like this if you’re having it done at a local shop. I think it’s a little out of my league for DIY
I need to know, because this is definitely out of my league. Especially with the kind of luck that I have...
Be safe kids, never reuse an old cotter pin. Always replace it with a new one.
What’s a cotter pin? He calls it a “retainer pin” lol. He also didn’t torque anything down, but gave a warning at the end for everything to be torqued. Kinda hard to do with a “retainer pin” installed and everything blasted back on with a 1/2” impact.
@@cap12206 First off this was a demonstration, it wasn't meant to be perfect, just to show you the process on how to do the work. He did bring up torqueing everything per specs for your vehicle at the end.
Second, you don't torque castle nuts. The purpose of the cotter pin is to hold the nut and keep it from loosening up. The proper way to tighten a castle nut is to seat the joint with the castle nut until it's snugged firmly but not overly tight. Then look and see where the hole in the stud is in orientation to the slots in the castle nut. If you do not see the hole, loosen(never tighten) the castle nut slowly until you see the hole line up with a slot in the castle nut. The amount you loosen the nut will be very minimal and won't make a difference. Once lined up install the cotter pin. Bend the part sticking through around the nut or over the end of the stud. This prevents the cotter pin from falling out from vibrations.
Also cotter pins are safe to reuse at least once but should be replaced after that unless it becomes weak or breaks after bending the pin to remove it.
@@Lugare2011 I’ve been a licensed airframe & power plant mechanic for over 20 years. EVERYTHING has a torque rating, cotter pins are NEVER reused, I’m fully aware how a castle nut works. And it’s not good practice to assemble front end suspension and steering parts with a half inch impact. This is why I rarely if ever allow an automotive “mechanic” to touch my vehicles. In my industry if I did something so blatantly wrong and caused an accident I’d go to jail. I’m also required to fill out a maintenance log and specify the approved repair method used(by citing a repair manual), hardware used, torque specs used, s/n and cal date of any calibrated tools used, and a sign off by a licensed inspector.
@@cap12206 Blah blah blah I'm a licensed blah blah blah. It's funny how everyone on TH-cam is a licensed or professional whatever lmao. Oh and cotter pins ARE reused.
@@Lugare2011 I work on Ag equipment and deal with the re used mangled up cotter pins on customer jobs that are a bitch to get out sometimes. If a customer or other mechanic are too cheap to replace a few cent up to a dollar for some of the larger cotter pins. I question what else a guys trying to save money on when they worked on something before I had to sort the mess out when it failed again. I've even seen guys use a construction nail bent over, if they didn't have the a new pin when the old one broke the ends off, but hey at least they tried to stop it falling apart doing it .
He is using a vacuum pump but he keeps saying 24
pounds of pressure. Vacuum is measured in inches of mercury, so he is pulling a vacuum of 24 inches of hg (mercury).
How much would this job cost at your shop?
What tires were those? Duratracs?
is it really needed to take off the brake caliper? Seems like you're adding alot more unneeded steps. Ive seen guys do it on the same year truck without removing brake caliper
I have 33x12.5R20 tires. The front of my truck measures 43 inches. How much would it be lifted?
are 34s a safe bet with this level?
Would strongly encourage watching the install for the Motofab mounts posted by American trucks if doing any leveling kit. This video missed a few key steps that are covered in the other video. Also many of the nut sizes are different.
Do you guys have auto body shop around?
What size are those tires?
This question may have already been asked but is there a reason why some leveling kits (or strut spacers) are $40 where others are $90 or even $100?
Material (steel vs aluminum) and build quality
I have 33x12.5 stock height no running
Worth noting: if you have a two wheel drive there's a large locking nut for the rotor that is not reusable. Almost $20 each last time I did mine
Do you need to remove the knuckle to install the strut spacer?
no lol
Why does that truck not look leveled. Has more of a rake look in my opinion
proceeds to tear apart entire front end to install a 2.5 in level kit.
So I used this kit and want to go with 35's. I don't want my truck all wide like the mall crawlers that never see dirt.
I would also like to stay with my stock 20" rims.
Any idea of what size tires I could fit under my truck without too much modification?
What year do you have?
Depends a lot on offset also.
33/12/50/R20
305/55/R20 the best choice bud
On newer models (2015+) does this leveling kit ACTUALLY make it level?
im wondering if I should do a 2 inch or 2.5 I want mine sitting level, not raised up in the front or down I have a 2017
yea i’m wondering. i just bought this one and now i’m skeptical ab it bc i don’t want it being too much
Looking for a leveling kit 2.5 for my 2018 f-150 XLT any idea on what brand to get ?
Rough Country, Mammoth, and Supreme Suspension are all solid choices for leveling spacers! -Zach
Nice Content
I would like to see how well a truck leveled with this kit does off road. Nothing crazy just the normal stuff done with full sized trucks.
Well I bought my truck with a 3 inch leveling kit. Had to replace a bunch of stuff including the spacer. When I went to have the alignment done they couldn't get the camber correct. The tech said they see it all the time. He told me unless you're changing to an upgraded knuckle you're wasting your time and money.
I seen the ford guy remove the strut just by removing the lower ball joint
You say its $30 but when you go to buy its actually $50. WTF
How will a 35" on 2.5 " kit react off-road if you hit a hole and bottom suspension? RUB?
rub, depending on how hard you hit destroy a tire maybe a fender or all. I would run a 33 if off roading. leveling isn't for off roading.
I swwar that calipee looked straight back at me, twice!
Anyone running 33x12.5 on a leveling kit?!
Look at all that rust, definitely a Ford
Smack the piss out of that inner tie rod
At least you adjusted to the knuckle tho
Does this effect the towing and hauling after adding the leveling kit?
Yes the factory rake is for when you have weight in the bed or a heavy tongue weight it will keep the truck level when the rear squats. With the truck leveled with no weight in the bed or hitch then add weight the front rises rear squats
Buy a set of nice quality air bags for hauling it will save on wear and ride like a dream.
Great video, but i think ive been convinced to not try this 😂
We are here to keep it real and show you what it's about! Glad you enjoyed the video!!
So I just added what I’m guessing is the last version of the mammoth 2.5” lift to my truck. The offset triangle looking kit? Is there a difference between that version and this version? In quality or in life? I know I spent $99 on that kit so $30 kinda stings especially since it’s been less than two months since I purchased it.
No differance just how they upgraded the design to look more factory. My son has the triangles and I have the solid spacer. Does the exact same thing. Oh We both run 35 x 12.5 x 20- rims and tires.
No hard G in the word hanger. It’s Hang-er, not Hang-Ger
You should hear how I pronounce "radiator" and "water". 😉😂 Thanks for watching. -Zach
We cant see the teeth you're referring to, the camera is zoomed out too far