Luke, you are incredible. Your knowledge, articulation, clarity, sense of humor is entertaining, enlightening and thoroughly enjoyable. You are delightfully informative. Your expressive explanations are so satisfying to listen to. Absolutely adore you. Thank you for acknowledging and explaining the impact of Mr. Talley. Thank you for your work. You are appreciated.
As impressed as I am at Talley’s who’s who of friends, it’s also important to note that some of these so called friends were very nasty and mean to him. In Talley’s book the Chiffon Trenches, he talks about the disgusting, vile and racist things that were said behind his back and to his face. References to his weight and the way he was dismissed from Vogue. Being dropped like a hot potato by KL for an innocent remark that was taken as an insult. I was so shocked and disturbed by that. I mean the fashion industry isn’t exactly color blind, but to think that the same people who relied on him were the same people who talked ish about him behind his back is just plain cruel. As far Galliano is concerned, Talley did right by that genius. His time at Dior was LEGENDARY and magnificent. Having said that however I cannot in good conscience condone the atrocious behavior that got him fired. He’s an absolute fave but Dior did the right thing. There’s no excuse.
Reading that broke my heart. What a bunch of fake bullshit this beautiful tender heart had to deal with. Ppl who pretend to like you but talk shit behind your back & not just catty gossip but rotted gutted racist filth, nobody should ever go thru that. Disgraceful. Shameful.
@@Em-wk5ns His one true friend was Diane von Furstenberg. She alone purchased Talley's home, for him, as he was practically being evicted from his home.
A few years ago I had the chance to meet Andre Leon Talley at my work one day here in Beverly Hills. He was using our couture salon to style a photo shoot inside one of our fitting rooms with actress Sophie Okenedo* photographed by Steve Simko during an Oscars 2005 weekend that she was attending. The photos appearing in the May Issue of that year promoting the Tony Awards nominees. He came in through our freight service elevator and I was walking behind as we got to our floor. He asked me where our department was and lead him there. I summoned the courage to acknowledge his contributions to Vogue and that I was a fan of his. He was extremely gracious towards me, a class act. There was none of that nonsense of being too famous that you couldn’t approach or talk to him. It was an absolute pleasure to have a discussion with him for those few minutes. * Best Actress in a Leading Role In Arthur Miller’s “The Crucible”
I'm usually not flustered but had i the opportunity to meet him i would have gushed my profound love and admiration for him. It would have been a whole fan girl moment. Congrats on keeping your cool
I'm not surprised by the celebration for he was a gentleman reared in a fine way. Nothwithstanding, money does not a King or gentleman make. Some frat brothers and I were just remarking how acroythe pond a whole King displaced his baby son over a few rubies & some damp and dustry castles... I digress. Ha! Money & Power will certainly Robber Baron make! Rest in GOD, King Talley!
Thank you for spotlighting this amazing story. I lived for Andre and loved his memoir. I cant beleive how he isnt celebrated even more. I would love the met gala to honor him in the coming years.
I would love that too but I don’t see it happening. Mr. Talley was a beloved figure in fashion. He did so much for young designers who were incredibly talented and he single-handedly put them on the map. This is why he should celebrated. I feel however, given how vapid and fickle the fashion industry is, a tribute to Andre Leon Talley will remain a dream that will never see the light of day. Sad but very true.
Say what you will but I found it disgusting that they themed a recent one to the allegedly racist designer over him or some of the many other impactful fashion titans (Dianna Vreeland comes to mind). I was really sad to hear how he was treated and even worse when he passed away. I honestly think that was what eventually did him in, having a passion can allow you to withstand a lot for a long time. He got allot of flack for his weight like many larger people do, but he was indeed like a ship, breaking through dangerous ice in the arctic to make history. Many “big” name brands cannot HONESTLY say the same. Their originality and pizaz gone when people like him are used up and throw out of that meat grinder of an industry.
I just want to thank you for existing. I somehow stumbled here from videos on 1800s fashion history two years ago, and you're inclusion of SO MUCH history in your critiques of outfits is what kept this historian around. You rock!
LOVE this fashion history + analysis of an iconic fashion show/moment. I recently watched a documentary about John Galliano's rise, but the narrator lacked your knowledge (and wit) to explain the importance of the show. Thank you for making this!!! I
Aside from Anna Wintour hating the color black or a collection that has more black than any other color, she also has said publicly in one Vogue video that this particular collection by John Galliano, is indeed her most favorite collection of all time. So it does say something about John and as a person who really loved John since i was 13, seeing you talking about this collection makes me very very happy.
Cher Luke, as a man of color, I would like to express how important it has been that throughout the history of your channel, your coverage of all things fashion but with a sensitive historical telling of the importance of all peoples , especially those of color. You do your best to tell the truth. I admire you. I enjoy your character. Your channel has become a mainstay of mine to stay current with the fashion world. I can not imagine what you will be doing in20 years, but someho😂I believe you will be one of the greatest influences in fashion know to man. This is how much faith I have in your intellect and passion for fashion. Bless you, young brother, may all your days be full of wisdom and grace. Harold Richardson
Omg, this fashion history lesson was so well done and fun to watch. I remember how I loved this collection originally but you and your knowledge made me love it even more, thank you!!!
ALT the G.O.A.T. in haute couture. 😅 Rhianna's tribute to him in that red down coat/cape during the Superbowl was recognizable iconic and elegant. This man helped so many ppl in fashion, but NONE of them came to his aid while he dealt with C-19 and eviction. Duped in a rent to buy deal of an iconic home......was so unjust. Thanks to DVF for paying the debt and settling the matter. This would happen two months after he passed away. She gave him his flowers while he was alive.......that's friendship. Thanks for this well delivered historical fashion tutorial.❤❤
I love these historical compilation videos. I watch them multiple times. I know that the creation process must be very detailed and research intensive, but the result honors the artist (even if he/she/they are problematic) and the work (almost always wearable art). I appreciate and respect you Luke, but sorry that suit @32:09 is not in my budget.
Luke points out that the creation process can also be spur of the moment 28:44 hair dresser Julian was running late to the show, shops at the drugstore, buys stationary plastic sheets, burned with matches to create holes to sew them together.
Thank you Luke, your passion for fashion history is greatly appreciated, not only you explained remarkable moments in fashion but also gave us a detailed description of techniques applied in clothing design, as someone who didn’t follow his dreams of becoming a fashion journalist I’m always happy when I see a brilliant young talent like you teaching new and older generations ❤
Thank you Luke, teaching us the history of fashion is such a gift for everyone and you do it with intensity ❣️Greatly appreciated and hope you do more🥰
This was a fashion history class that I should have had to get a degree in order to be privy to such education. Thank you Luke!!! This was such an amazing episode.
I watched the documentary on Talley (The Gospel According to Andre) because of you, Luke...thank you!!! Such an amazing life and career Andre lived and yet I sense an underlying sadness too. It brings back one of the truths taught by the Buddha i.e. we all suffer.
There is something magical about John Galliano’s fashion. I adore this Japanese inspired collection, the most beautiful things I have ever seen. As for Andre, what a way with words and a true love of fashion and people.
The video I needed! ALTs influence cannot be understated throughout his career and his knowledge was second to none, it's great to see him get the credit he deserves in the community.
I bought Andre Leon Talley's book when it first came out, and just recently started reading it. This is the part of the book I'm currently at. I didnt realize how big of an influence ALT had on so many people
Loved this. So much detail and great storytelling. I have loved Galliono's "fantasy with a great cut" since I first saw his work in Vogue (the magazine, you know, 100 years ago). He is FASHION. And omg that BLACK SUIT!!! Talk about cut! Where is it being sold??? EDIT: Found it on 1st Dibs. Wish I had 10K to throw away!!
Absolutely brilliant! I can't even imagine the insane amount of time it must take to research and find the footage and pics to put together a video like this. I absolutely loved ALT Chiffon Trenches so this really expands on a portion of that book and shows how incredibly important ALT's connections and ability to get so many different people (all with huge egos I'm sure) to work together! 😍
An impressive and masterful dissertation on the professional relationship between Galliano and Andre Leon Talley, and Galliano's first collection. Really, you couldn't ask for more. There's not only a delightfully informed analysis of Galliano's first collection, there's also your highlighting of Talley's unfailing ability in finding and building talent in the fashion industry, something often overlooked when discussing Talley's career. This is fashion history at its best: entertaining, opinionated, scholarly but fun. Congratulations for a job well done!
28:17 Just a little correction here, she stands with Tsugouharu Foujita, Japanese painter, to whom Kiki was a muse. However, the photography was indeed taken by Iwata Nakayama! Thank you so much for this amazing and thoroughly detailed video Luke :)
OMG AMAZING! with all the faster-paced and more surface-level red carpet videos - which i love - i almost forget how knowledgeable you are. and, as it's said, KNOWLEDGE IS POWER.
I’m truly impressed by your knowledge and the desire to explore all the journeys of the designers at your young age. My mother supervised seamstresses in Texas during the mid 50’s to the late 70’s. Her factory made the Buffy dresses from The Family Affair Show. They made clothes sold in Neiman Marcus as well. She taught me to appreciate the construction of the clothes and the love of fine fabrics. Many years after she passed, I took my dear mother in law to the Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis exhibit in NYC. We had the best day together admiring the luxurious and exquisite creations Jackie wowed the world of her fashion style. I love watching all of your content and learn so much from you. I adore your facial expressions and enjoy laughing with you.
I loved this breakdown. Previously watched a mini doc with Tim blanks explaining how John Galliano got his break but i appreciated your research into each look and the story behind the story. ❤😊❤
You are a treasure! I can't believe the knowledge, research, respect and humor that you fit into these videos. Stunning. And you manage to tip toe through a veritable minefield of cultural and racial issues respecting and acknowledging everyone and everything. BRAVO!
Holy moly our models were SO THIN jesus. This fashion throw back is fantastic, sheds light on the style of a number of things I bought around that time, really glad you covered Galliano, he had a massive impact on fashion at that time.
Luke, you are such a gifted and informed storyteller. Thank you for this. You make fashion history sound intriguing and wonderful. Please keep up the good work.
Applause to Mr. Talley, what an incredible man! As for John, he is absolutely brilliant. Yes he did make antisemitic statement. But he was drunk and/or under influence and filmed on purpose on a real camera mind you (no cellphones cams at that time) , the provocation was surely set up. He costed too much to Dior, they wanted him gone with little loss on their side. Now tell me, have you never said or done anything awful in your entire life, that you would regret?! I don't believe there is such a person in the world. One should forgive.
This is brilliant. Your breadth of historical fashion knowledge and your respect and regard for ALT have won you another fan/subscriber/member. (I miss reading ALT so much, and wish Vogue had done a proper tribute to him.)
OMG Luke..! I just love you love your knowledge, your expertise.. you're amazing and thanks for this I hope you would keep on doing these kinds of videos where you analyse runway shows especially John Galliano. Love you and thanks
I’m a flower designer in nyc. I’m. 61 and ( not to brag) Thierry Mugler boyfriend for 5 years in the early 90s . Thierry was a librarian himself in the history of fashion and history in general itself. I wish all these new designers had at least a third or your knowledge ❤❤❤❤
Great insight into fashion history. John apologised for his comments, he has been judged unfairly. What he said shouldn't define his character or his contribution to fashion. We should always focus on the many positive things he has done not the small negative incidents. Nobody is without flaws.
I disagree; his remarks about Nazi sympathies tell the ENTIRE WORLD everything we need to know regarding his character. His talent is undeniable, but his character is deeply flawed. If he'd made disgusting remarks directed at your ancestry, I strongly doubt that you'd have been so quick to excuse him.
@@naps4allnot at all. These were said under the influence of alcohol. His actions are what are important not his words or views. He is known to be a kind, generous and hard working. Working with people of all faiths including Jews throughout his career.
As the grandchild of a holocaust survivor, your comment is really disturbing. And as many say, “drunk words speak sober thoughts.” Anti-semitism is alive and well, and when people rationalize it and downplay it the way that you‘ve done here, it justifies hate and makes the world less safe for Jews like me all over the world. It’s no small deal.
@@kzvegansuperstar your comment is distrubing. He is not an anti-semite, you should not reduce a man's character to that label and play that card. It is his actions that speak louder than words. Not his drunken words. You do not acknowledge that he apologised and that he has had relationships with jewish people professionally. You don't accept any of this. Alcohol also makes people say unreasonable and untruths too. You can't just use one quote to sum up what alcohol does to the brain. It is dangerous to label people without knowing their full character and how they behave towards others.
@@waterbearer4627 dude you’re literally making excuses for someone who on three separate incidents made virulently and violently anti-Semitic, pro-Hitler comments and was found guilty by a Paris court of doing so! These were repeated offenses. Just stop, it’s disgusting. All that’s left to surmise from your comments is that you don’t think anti-semitism is that big of a deal, and that you’re defending Galliano’s anti-semitism because you see yourself reflected in his behavior. I’d also have to assume that you’d use the same logic to justify people committing other heinous acts under the influence of alcohol- being drunk is not an excuse for anything. Get out of here with your antiquated, weak argumentation!
YESSSSSS, i've been waiting for this one. andre was such a warm and generous patron with a talent for recognising talent. and john is absolutely brilliant, one of the industry's most forward-thinking and visionary talents, and easily our greatest living designer. both are/were a real treasure to the fashion world.
This is the best video I have ever seen from you. Your passion for fashion has never been more evident. Well done! I have one of the suits from the Kimono collection in black wool gabardine. I treasure it.
Andre Leon Talley seems to have been such a hero of the fashion world, it's gutting to hear about how he was treated by some people, and so frustrating that he faced those challenges in life only to have so many people who didn't have his back when he was alive talking about hwo great he is now that he has passed, imagine what more he could have achieved (for himself and the world of fashion) if some of those doors had been open for him at the time! As much as Galliano has said some awful things he is undeniably a great fashion designer, what a great spot by Andre. John Galliano designed clothes with such extravagence, Dior clothes under him were llike a tripped out dream of lots of different historical styles meshed together. I totally get why they had to sack him- but I wish that the current heads of the huge brands could be a little more out there with their designs.
You don't need to constantly apologize for doing a video on Galliano's rise because of what happened in 2011. Yes it was horrible, but in no way does it erase his place in fashion history. The story deserves to be told and the art deserves to be celebrated. Besides, Galliano has since hugely repented and atoned - people can actually learn from mistakes and change for the better.
FANTASTIC video! You really bridge the elitre world of high fashion and make it accessible to everyone, yet with an air of refinement and poise that feels thoughtful and inclusive of those who otherwise would be too intimidated by the fashion scene's usual condescending snobbery to ever bother to delve into the history and references that you present.There's a respect that you have for the subject matter AND the audience that grants outsiders a sense of safety to enter into these lavish realms and know of such fine things.
Unpopular opinion but not a fan of Anna Wintour but its fascinating how she climbed up the ranks when others knew the trade so much better. She's just good at playing chess and knew when and where to move people around her.
Andre Leon Talley as much as I've read about him, was a multi-talented, gifted, kind person and genius. Yes, he may have saved Galliano's career, but is how we want to remember Andre Leon Talley, especially as there is so much more to remember and honor about him?
I don't think this video is an attempt to encapsulate every aspect of ALT's ability/capacity, in fact Luke steers clear of being "surface" in order to provide one in-depth example to demonstrate exactly how "Tally was also a mover and shaker in the fashion industry." Luke is providing a receipt for claims of genius, influence, and taste often ascribed to Talley. This is just one (really long-drug store) receipt. It brings me a unique glee because this was such an unforgettable influential happening in my life a trifecta of beauty, technique, and taste brought about by ALT, who was someone who represented a life of possibility for me.
@@B0WIETVC15 I get that this video isn't meant to be a biography. My concern is, of all the great and multiple achievements Andre Leon Talley made, why focus on this one first? Or am I reading too much into the optics?
@@sarahwatts7152 Not suggesting that Talley's efforts should be forgotten, in fact the exact opposite. Trying to clarify why the initial focus on this topic and not other arguably greater achievements.
Excellent insight into a spectacular event in fashion history. You earned yourself a loyal subscriber. Just a little correction: In 31:48, it’s Linda Evangelista wearing the smoking suit, not Christy Turlington.
thank you for talking about the japanisme. I'm japanese canadian and when I speak about the appropriation of kimono, a lot of people say "well people in japan say it's okay". like you say in the video, japanese people trying to sell things and non-japanese people trying to sell japanese things is different, and cultural exchange is one thing while appropriation is another and isn't always clear cut. but also, japanese people in japan and japanese people in canada (and other countries) have different history. my grandparents had to burn anything japanese in any way to avoid persecution (which didn't work because the american and canadian governments put us all in concentration camps anyway) and literally had to burn any kimono they owned, so yeah, I'm gonna feel some type of way about a non-japanese designer doing something like this, with fetishization thrown on top.
I wouldn't call it a cultural appropriation cause Japan was a major economic force in the 80s-90s and it's not stupid or disrespectful. Somehow it's ok for people to wear western sweatpants from Bangladesh sweatshops but when a designer takes something from other culture it's a faux pas
Great job Luke, this one was really a mouth full. I'm worn out simply keeping up with you. Love the research and references given, you never fail to amaze me with your knowledge.
I have loved Galliano since the 90's. His designs were unlike anyone else's and so original and daring. When he was caught saying stupid things on tape, he was in the throes of drugs and alcohol and I think he wasn't serious, just being cheeky during a drunken stooper, and it fell very flat. I'm glad Andre helped John as it would have been a shame to "cancel" such a talented designer. If anyone is a horrible person, that is the dragon lady herself, Anna Wintour.
Love the history and the way you take time to explain and tie in different factors/elements. Like a history teacher. E.g. social events, creative milestonee, fashion industry events/fashion big players acts, financial elements and impact/consequences, and analysis -- and thank you ESPECIALLY for analysis, tying it all together (acknowledging different elements having influence) and not being revisionist - yes there are biases and prejudices here, but they're people, we can't sanitise them. whilst we can acknowledge their successes/abilities and , we can also acknowledge their faults/ethical and moral issues/choices and prejudices (to modern sensibilities).
Thank u for a great video. One point that usually escapes people About this show and that Galliano once spoke about is that the white fur bolero and I believe other of black bolero shrugs were mere regular shaped short waisted fur jackets that where worn upside down The collars Of said jackets where at the waist level while The waists were worn as the collar part. Just an Interesting point that I only Noticed after listing to A galliano intervew. That
This was great ❤it sucks when you see the dark side of someone who is so creative. Being able to combine proper sewing structure with new and innovative means is so difficult. Talley obviously saw this in Galliano.
Luke, you are incredible. Your knowledge, articulation, clarity, sense of humor is entertaining, enlightening and thoroughly enjoyable. You are delightfully informative. Your expressive explanations are so satisfying to listen to. Absolutely adore you. Thank you for acknowledging and explaining the impact of Mr. Talley. Thank you for your work. You are appreciated.
He needs a PBS show!!!
@valeriepark9444 omgaaaaaaahhhhh! "The archives" where he breaks down fashion lines and fashion history!! Yes!
BRAVO !!!
1990's runway fashion just hits different
I'm saying all of early clickers here know this;)
So much more life than today!!!
100%!! 😁
Yeah- it HITS!
It was the greatest time
Every fashion fan should read ALT's biography. It's wonderful and very moving and got me through lockdown. RIP ALT
As impressed as I am at Talley’s who’s who of friends, it’s also important to note that some of these so called friends were very nasty and mean to him. In Talley’s book the Chiffon Trenches, he talks about the disgusting, vile and racist things that were said behind his back and to his face. References to his weight and the way he was dismissed from Vogue. Being dropped like a hot potato by KL for an innocent remark that was taken as an insult. I was so shocked and disturbed by that. I mean the fashion industry isn’t exactly color blind, but to think that the same people who relied on him were the same people who talked ish about him behind his back is just plain cruel. As far Galliano is concerned, Talley did right by that genius. His time at Dior was LEGENDARY and magnificent. Having said that however I cannot in good conscience condone the atrocious behavior that got him fired. He’s an absolute fave but Dior did the right thing. There’s no excuse.
Reading that broke my heart. What a bunch of fake bullshit this beautiful tender heart had to deal with. Ppl who pretend to like you but talk shit behind your back & not just catty gossip but rotted gutted racist filth, nobody should ever go thru that.
Disgraceful. Shameful.
You would think, people like that would have a little more style ( meaning class.) their behavior towards Mr.Talley speaks volume their character.
How where all this "friends" when André was sick and have financal trouble? The fashion industry is superficial and heartless.
The question is why did ATL put up with it all that time? He was part of the problem. Nobody held a gun to his head. He wasn't a victim
@@Em-wk5ns His one true friend was Diane von Furstenberg. She alone purchased Talley's home, for him, as he was practically being evicted from his home.
A few years ago I had the chance to meet Andre Leon Talley at my work one day here in Beverly Hills. He was using our couture salon to style a photo shoot inside one of our fitting rooms with actress Sophie Okenedo* photographed by Steve Simko during an Oscars 2005 weekend that she was attending. The photos appearing in the May Issue of that year promoting the Tony Awards nominees. He came in through our freight service elevator and I was walking behind as we got to our floor. He asked me where our department was and lead him there. I summoned the courage to acknowledge his contributions to Vogue and that I was a fan of his. He was extremely gracious towards me, a class act. There was none of that nonsense of being too famous that you couldn’t approach or talk to him. It was an absolute pleasure to have a discussion with him for those few minutes. * Best Actress in a Leading Role In Arthur Miller’s “The Crucible”
I'm usually not flustered but had i the opportunity to meet him i would have gushed my profound love and admiration for him. It would have been a whole fan girl
moment. Congrats on keeping your cool
I'm not surprised by the celebration for he was a gentleman reared in a fine way. Nothwithstanding, money does not a King or gentleman make. Some frat brothers and I were just remarking how acroythe pond a whole King displaced his baby son over a few rubies & some damp and dustry castles... I digress. Ha! Money & Power will certainly Robber Baron make! Rest in GOD, King Talley!
Thank you for spotlighting this amazing story. I lived for Andre and loved his memoir. I cant beleive how he isnt celebrated even more. I would love the met gala to honor him in the coming years.
Yes, an amazing idea!!!!
Everyone in kaftans!
He TOTALLY deserves to be honored at the Met Gala!!!
I would love that too but I don’t see it happening. Mr. Talley was a beloved figure in fashion. He did so much for young designers who were incredibly talented and he single-handedly put them on the map. This is why he should celebrated. I feel however, given how vapid and fickle the fashion industry is, a tribute to Andre Leon Talley will remain a dream that will never see the light of day. Sad but very true.
Say what you will but I found it disgusting that they themed a recent one to the allegedly racist designer over him or some of the many other impactful fashion titans (Dianna Vreeland comes to mind). I was really sad to hear how he was treated and even worse when he passed away. I honestly think that was what eventually did him in, having a passion can allow you to withstand a lot for a long time. He got allot of flack for his weight like many larger people do, but he was indeed like a ship, breaking through dangerous ice in the arctic to make history. Many “big” name brands cannot HONESTLY say the same. Their originality and pizaz gone when people like him are used up and throw out of that meat grinder of an industry.
I just want to thank you for existing. I somehow stumbled here from videos on 1800s fashion history two years ago, and you're inclusion of SO MUCH history in your critiques of outfits is what kept this historian around. You rock!
Me too
LOVE this fashion history + analysis of an iconic fashion show/moment. I recently watched a documentary about John Galliano's rise, but the narrator lacked your knowledge (and wit) to explain the importance of the show. Thank you for making this!!! I
Thank you for discussing people, difficult topics and fashion history in a respectful way😌
Aside from Anna Wintour hating the color black or a collection that has more black than any other color, she also has said publicly in one Vogue video that this particular collection by John Galliano, is indeed her most favorite collection of all time. So it does say something about John and as a person who really loved John since i was 13, seeing you talking about this collection makes me very very happy.
lolll the puns I could make= good one
No one cuts like Galliano. He and McQueen were my absolute favorites when i was young… this video was a fascinating education.
Cher Luke, as a man of color, I would like to express how important it has been that throughout the history of your channel, your coverage of all things fashion but with a sensitive historical telling of the importance of all peoples , especially those of color. You do your best to tell the truth. I admire you. I enjoy your character. Your channel has become a mainstay of mine to stay current with the fashion world. I can not imagine what you will be doing in20 years, but someho😂I believe you will be one of the greatest influences in fashion know to man. This is how much faith I have in your intellect and passion for fashion. Bless you, young brother, may all your days be full of wisdom and grace.
Harold Richardson
This is so lovely
I feel like we are here at the beginning of a new generations Tim Gunn - definitely someone very important in fashion.
Beautifully said 👏👏👏
Omg, this fashion history lesson was so well done and fun to watch. I remember how I loved this collection originally but you and your knowledge made me love it even more, thank you!!!
i think its important to continually talk about history no matter the past. Galliano is a huge part of history
ALT the G.O.A.T. in haute couture. 😅
Rhianna's tribute to him in that red down coat/cape during the Superbowl was recognizable iconic and elegant.
This man helped so many ppl in fashion, but NONE of them came to his aid while he dealt with C-19 and eviction. Duped in a rent to buy deal of an iconic home......was so unjust.
Thanks to DVF for paying the debt and settling the matter. This would happen two months after he passed away.
She gave him his flowers while he was alive.......that's friendship.
Thanks for this well delivered historical fashion tutorial.❤❤
I love these historical compilation videos. I watch them multiple times. I know that the creation process must be very detailed and research intensive, but the result honors the artist (even if he/she/they are problematic) and the work (almost always wearable art). I appreciate and respect you Luke, but sorry that suit @32:09 is not in my budget.
Luke points out that the creation process can also be spur of the moment 28:44 hair dresser Julian was running late to the show, shops at the drugstore, buys stationary plastic sheets, burned with matches to create holes to sew them together.
Luke, your deep dives are criminally underrated! Your passion for the craft always shines through with your knowledge and commentary.
Thank you Luke, your passion for fashion history is greatly appreciated, not only you explained remarkable moments in fashion but also gave us a detailed description of techniques applied in clothing design, as someone who didn’t follow his dreams of becoming a fashion journalist I’m always happy when I see a brilliant young talent like you teaching new and older generations ❤
Thank you Luke, teaching us the history of fashion is such a gift for everyone and you do it with intensity ❣️Greatly appreciated and hope you do more🥰
This was a fashion history class that I should have had to get a degree in order to be privy to such education. Thank you Luke!!! This was such an amazing episode.
I watched the documentary on Talley (The Gospel According to Andre) because of you, Luke...thank you!!! Such an amazing life and career Andre lived and yet I sense an underlying sadness too. It brings back one of the truths taught by the Buddha i.e. we all suffer.
We appreciate hearing your insights. We learn so much from you and what you have to say in regards to fashion choices.
The amount of work you put into your videos is truly amazing. So thankful for the dedication, I feel like I’m getting a free education
There is something magical about John Galliano’s fashion. I adore this Japanese inspired collection, the most beautiful things I have ever seen.
As for Andre, what a way with words and a true love of fashion and people.
As always a brilliantly researched documentary, I don’t even have to finish the whole thing.
The video I needed! ALTs influence cannot be understated throughout his career and his knowledge was second to none, it's great to see him get the credit he deserves in the community.
I like these fashion history lessons. More please!
I got the opportunity to meet Andre. He was so gracious. A wonderful memory!
I bought Andre Leon Talley's book when it first came out, and just recently started reading it. This is the part of the book I'm currently at. I didnt realize how big of an influence ALT had on so many people
You are yourself a walking encyclopedia of fashion. Fashion road man, Understich and you are my favorites channels. Keep up the good work 🙏🏾
Thank you! Enjoyed this very much. Quite informative and love how you broke down the sewing techniques and the history they were linked to.
Loved this. So much detail and great storytelling. I have loved Galliono's "fantasy with a great cut" since I first saw his work in Vogue (the magazine, you know, 100 years ago). He is FASHION. And omg that BLACK SUIT!!! Talk about cut! Where is it being sold??? EDIT: Found it on 1st Dibs. Wish I had 10K to throw away!!
Absolutely brilliant! I can't even imagine the insane amount of time it must take to research and find the footage and pics to put together a video like this. I absolutely loved ALT Chiffon Trenches so this really expands on a portion of that book and shows how incredibly important ALT's connections and ability to get so many different people (all with huge egos I'm sure) to work together! 😍
Thank you Luke for always highlighting a diversity of figures in the fashion industry ❤
This is amazing. Should be a Netflix documentary
Your narrative is the best! Thank you for this ❤I would LOVE to watch more about British designers (Henry Holland, Gareth Pugh, Giles Deacon etc)
Outstanding, Mr. Luke. Your knowledge is second to none. Bravo 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏 👏
Fantastic! Fantastic! Fantastic! Thank you so much for this!
An impressive and masterful dissertation on the professional relationship between Galliano and Andre Leon Talley, and Galliano's first collection. Really, you couldn't ask for more. There's not only a delightfully informed analysis of Galliano's first collection, there's also your highlighting of Talley's unfailing ability in finding and building talent in the fashion industry, something often overlooked when discussing Talley's career. This is fashion history at its best: entertaining, opinionated, scholarly but fun. Congratulations for a job well done!
Oh how I miss, fashion documentary content like this ❤😊
28:17
Just a little correction here, she stands with Tsugouharu Foujita, Japanese painter, to whom Kiki was a muse. However, the photography was indeed taken by Iwata Nakayama!
Thank you so much for this amazing and thoroughly detailed video Luke :)
Thank you so much for this!!
OMG AMAZING! with all the faster-paced and more surface-level red carpet videos - which i love - i almost forget how knowledgeable you are. and, as it's said, KNOWLEDGE IS POWER.
love the analysis!
Totally agree about the headpieces; they add an unforgettable element very missing today.
I’m truly impressed by your knowledge and the desire to explore all the journeys of the designers at your young age.
My mother supervised seamstresses in Texas during the mid 50’s to the late 70’s. Her factory made the Buffy dresses from The Family Affair Show. They made clothes sold in Neiman Marcus as well. She taught me to appreciate the construction of the clothes and the love of fine fabrics. Many years after she passed, I took my dear mother in law to the Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis exhibit in NYC. We had the best day together admiring the luxurious and exquisite creations Jackie wowed the world of her fashion style.
I love watching all of your content and learn so much from you. I adore your facial expressions and enjoy laughing with you.
I loved this breakdown. Previously watched a mini doc with Tim blanks explaining how John Galliano got his break but i appreciated your research into each look and the story behind the story. ❤😊❤
You are a treasure! I can't believe the knowledge, research, respect and humor that you fit into these videos. Stunning. And you manage to tip toe through a veritable minefield of cultural and racial issues respecting and acknowledging everyone and everything. BRAVO!
Holy moly our models were SO THIN jesus. This fashion throw back is fantastic, sheds light on the style of a number of things I bought around that time, really glad you covered Galliano, he had a massive impact on fashion at that time.
Luke, you are such a gifted and informed storyteller. Thank you for this. You make fashion history sound intriguing and wonderful. Please keep up the good work.
Applause to Mr. Talley, what an incredible man!
As for John, he is absolutely brilliant. Yes he did make antisemitic statement. But he was drunk and/or under influence and filmed on purpose on a real camera mind you (no cellphones cams at that time) , the provocation was surely set up. He costed too much to Dior, they wanted him gone with little loss on their side.
Now tell me, have you never said or done anything awful in your entire life, that you would regret?! I don't believe there is such a person in the world. One should forgive.
wow, give this boy a like. great story time,
Super great, thank you so much for putting it all together and delivering it thoughtfully and with humor ❤
THIS IS THE CONTENT WE NEED!!!!😩🙌🏻❤️
Along with your thorough knowledge of the field, I really appreciate that you don't avoid or minimize difficult issues.
This is brilliant. Your breadth of historical fashion knowledge and your respect and regard for ALT have won you another fan/subscriber/member. (I miss reading ALT so much, and wish Vogue had done a proper tribute to him.)
OMG Luke..! I just love you love your knowledge, your expertise.. you're amazing and thanks for this
I hope you would keep on doing these kinds of videos where you analyse runway shows especially John Galliano. Love you and thanks
This is an awesome video, luke never fails to impress and I was so glad to learn so much about Talley and his contributions^^
I’m a flower designer in nyc. I’m. 61 and ( not to brag) Thierry Mugler boyfriend for 5 years in the early 90s . Thierry was a librarian himself in the history of fashion and history in general itself. I wish all these new designers had at least a third or your knowledge ❤❤❤❤
I look forward to these so much
This is my favorite kind of HauteLeMode video. Best fashion videos on this platform by a mile.
Great insight into fashion history. John apologised for his comments, he has been judged unfairly. What he said shouldn't define his character or his contribution to fashion. We should always focus on the many positive things he has done not the small negative incidents. Nobody is without flaws.
I disagree; his remarks about Nazi sympathies tell the ENTIRE WORLD everything we need to know regarding his character.
His talent is undeniable, but his character is deeply flawed.
If he'd made disgusting remarks directed at your ancestry, I strongly doubt that you'd have been so quick to excuse him.
@@naps4allnot at all. These were said under the influence of alcohol. His actions are what are important not his words or views. He is known to be a kind, generous and hard working. Working with people of all faiths including Jews throughout his career.
As the grandchild of a holocaust survivor, your comment is really disturbing. And as many say, “drunk words speak sober thoughts.” Anti-semitism is alive and well, and when people rationalize it and downplay it the way that you‘ve done here, it justifies hate and makes the world less safe for Jews like me all over the world. It’s no small deal.
@@kzvegansuperstar your comment is distrubing. He is not an anti-semite, you should not reduce a man's character to that label and play that card. It is his actions that speak louder than words. Not his drunken words. You do not acknowledge that he apologised and that he has had relationships with jewish people professionally. You don't accept any of this. Alcohol also makes people say unreasonable and untruths too. You can't just use one quote to sum up what alcohol does to the brain. It is dangerous to label people without knowing their full character and how they behave towards others.
@@waterbearer4627 dude you’re literally making excuses for someone who on three separate incidents made virulently and violently anti-Semitic, pro-Hitler comments and was found guilty by a Paris court of doing so! These were repeated offenses. Just stop, it’s disgusting. All that’s left to surmise from your comments is that you don’t think anti-semitism is that big of a deal, and that you’re defending Galliano’s anti-semitism because you see yourself reflected in his behavior. I’d also have to assume that you’d use the same logic to justify people committing other heinous acts under the influence of alcohol- being drunk is not an excuse for anything. Get out of here with your antiquated, weak argumentation!
YESSSSSS, i've been waiting for this one. andre was such a warm and generous patron with a talent for recognising talent. and john is absolutely brilliant, one of the industry's most forward-thinking and visionary talents, and easily our greatest living designer. both are/were a real treasure to the fashion world.
calling someone who was found guilty of antisemitism and racism a "treasure" is WILD
@@Harry-tt6be and i’ll say it again - he’s a treasure to the fashion world ❤️😌
@@ljbx8 and you're the type of person who probably can't even afford any galliano pieces lol
@@Harry-tt6be why are you so obsessed with me? i think you're projecting x
@@ljbx8 sis you're the one proclaiming love for a racist and an antisemite lol
I really appreciate these historical videos. Thank you for the education
I finally had time to watch the 4 part documentary Kingdom of Dreams. Highly recommend and it does go into detail about Galliano's downfall.
This is the best video I have ever seen from you. Your passion for fashion has never been more evident. Well done! I have one of the suits from the Kimono collection in black wool gabardine. I treasure it.
🔟🔟🔟🔟🔟
LUKE! You did Thee Lord's work with this video!!!!!
BRAVO!! 🎉
Bravo. This is masterful. I find your depth of knowledge and detail riveting. I'm loving these videos! Merci, Luke.
Whenever you post a new video, I always click on it so fast. This was fantastic and extremely informative!
Your encyclopedic knowledge of fashion history continues to just blow me away. Thank you for such a very interesting vlog.
I love these indepth videos from Luke. Thx for making my day!
Andre Leon Talley seems to have been such a hero of the fashion world, it's gutting to hear about how he was treated by some people, and so frustrating that he faced those challenges in life only to have so many people who didn't have his back when he was alive talking about hwo great he is now that he has passed, imagine what more he could have achieved (for himself and the world of fashion) if some of those doors had been open for him at the time! As much as Galliano has said some awful things he is undeniably a great fashion designer, what a great spot by Andre.
John Galliano designed clothes with such extravagence, Dior clothes under him were llike a tripped out dream of lots of different historical styles meshed together. I totally get why they had to sack him- but I wish that the current heads of the huge brands could be a little more out there with their designs.
You don't need to constantly apologize for doing a video on Galliano's rise because of what happened in 2011. Yes it was horrible, but in no way does it erase his place in fashion history. The story deserves to be told and the art deserves to be celebrated. Besides, Galliano has since hugely repented and atoned - people can actually learn from mistakes and change for the better.
FANTASTIC video! You really bridge the elitre world of high fashion and make it accessible to everyone, yet with an air of refinement and poise that feels thoughtful and inclusive of those who otherwise would be too intimidated by the fashion scene's usual condescending snobbery to ever bother to delve into the history and references that you present.There's a respect that you have for the subject matter AND the audience that grants outsiders a sense of safety to enter into these lavish realms and know of such fine things.
Unpopular opinion but not a fan of Anna Wintour but its fascinating how she climbed up the ranks when others knew the trade so much better. She's just good at playing chess and knew when and where to move people around her.
The fact that you've become a haute coutoure collector/seller is so iconic
Andre Leon Talley as much as I've read about him, was a multi-talented, gifted, kind person and genius. Yes, he may have saved Galliano's career, but is how we want to remember Andre Leon Talley, especially as there is so much more to remember and honor about him?
I don't think this video is an attempt to encapsulate every aspect of ALT's ability/capacity, in fact Luke steers clear of being "surface" in order to provide one in-depth example to demonstrate exactly how "Tally was also a mover and shaker in the fashion industry." Luke is providing a receipt for claims of genius, influence, and taste often ascribed to Talley. This is just one (really long-drug store) receipt. It brings me a unique glee because this was such an unforgettable influential happening in my life a trifecta of beauty, technique, and taste brought about by ALT, who was someone who represented a life of possibility for me.
@@B0WIETVC15 I agree! Just because Galliano turns out to be a hard pill to swallow doesn't mean that Talley's efforts should be forgotten
@@B0WIETVC15 I get that this video isn't meant to be a biography. My concern is, of all the great and multiple achievements Andre Leon Talley made, why focus on this one first? Or am I reading too much into the optics?
@@sarahwatts7152 Not suggesting that Talley's efforts should be forgotten, in fact the exact opposite. Trying to clarify why the initial focus on this topic and not other arguably greater achievements.
Great work. I enjoyed it a lot. The history,the knowledge…Thanks for all your work. Love from Sweden. I am a fan of your work.
Gongratulations on the clever approach on Galiano’s Rise
Thank you for doing this video. Bravo to both talented men. Repentance and forgiveness are great human character traits. 👏🏻💕
Excellent insight into a spectacular event in fashion history. You earned yourself a loyal subscriber. Just a little correction: In 31:48, it’s Linda Evangelista wearing the smoking suit, not Christy Turlington.
Can you do a video about the 2015 Barbie inspired moschino fashion show?
good work Luke !!!! you teach these kids and even remind me of details I didnt even. know, very good work . xx
🥰Giddy with a "drop EVERYTHING" fashion moment! Posting before viewing, I'm that excited for this video!
thank you for talking about the japanisme. I'm japanese canadian and when I speak about the appropriation of kimono, a lot of people say "well people in japan say it's okay". like you say in the video, japanese people trying to sell things and non-japanese people trying to sell japanese things is different, and cultural exchange is one thing while appropriation is another and isn't always clear cut. but also, japanese people in japan and japanese people in canada (and other countries) have different history. my grandparents had to burn anything japanese in any way to avoid persecution (which didn't work because the american and canadian governments put us all in concentration camps anyway) and literally had to burn any kimono they owned, so yeah, I'm gonna feel some type of way about a non-japanese designer doing something like this, with fetishization thrown on top.
Love, love, love your content and knowledge! Thanks so much for sharing.
I ADORE how much you know and teach us!!! LOVE you MEAN IT!!
Great work, as usual. Really enjoyed the deep dive.
I wouldn't call it a cultural appropriation cause Japan was a major economic force in the 80s-90s and it's not stupid or disrespectful. Somehow it's ok for people to wear western sweatpants from Bangladesh sweatshops but when a designer takes something from other culture it's a faux pas
Thank you for giving us insight into the business side of high fashion.
Amazing those 94 collection plastic ribbon hats were a toss off- they were crucial to th look
Great job Luke, this one was really a mouth full. I'm worn out simply keeping up with you. Love the research and references given, you never fail to amaze me with your knowledge.
I loved this video!
Thank you Luke!
Absolutely loved your video. Thank you Luke!
I have loved Galliano since the 90's. His designs were unlike anyone else's and so original and daring.
When he was caught saying stupid things on tape, he was in the throes of drugs and alcohol and I think he wasn't serious, just being cheeky during a drunken stooper, and it fell very flat.
I'm glad Andre helped John as it would have been a shame to "cancel" such a talented designer.
If anyone is a horrible person, that is the dragon lady herself, Anna Wintour.
Love the history and the way you take time to explain and tie in different factors/elements. Like a history teacher. E.g. social events, creative milestonee, fashion industry events/fashion big players acts, financial elements and impact/consequences, and analysis -- and thank you ESPECIALLY for analysis, tying it all together (acknowledging different elements having influence) and not being revisionist - yes there are biases and prejudices here, but they're people, we can't sanitise them. whilst we can acknowledge their successes/abilities and , we can also acknowledge their faults/ethical and moral issues/choices and prejudices (to modern sensibilities).
This guy prepares well, and understands the importance to his credibility for doing so.....and that's what makes his postings on here so compelling.
I love this informative kind of videos you make
Your channel stands out... Incredible work
as an spaniard, love how well you explained spanish and flamenco history, great research
Thank u for a great video. One point that usually escapes people
About this show and that
Galliano once spoke about is that the white fur bolero and I believe other of black bolero shrugs were mere regular shaped short waisted fur jackets that where worn upside down The collars
Of said jackets where at the waist level while
The waists were worn as the collar part. Just an
Interesting point that I only
Noticed after listing to
A galliano intervew.
That
This was great ❤it sucks when you see the dark side of someone who is so creative. Being able to combine proper sewing structure with new and innovative means is so difficult. Talley obviously saw this in Galliano.
amazing, i learned so much from this video, im impressed with your knowledge in fashion, and history and recognize when you see it...wow