𝐖𝐎𝐑𝐓𝐇 𝘽𝙪𝙮𝙞𝙣𝙜? - CR10 Smart PRO
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 มิ.ย. 2024
- Is this worth the higher Price Tag? Resources Package and STL's can be found here. yarkspirifantasyart.com/is-it...
Chapters:
0:00 - To Begin
0:16 - Is it going to Work?
0:40 - Some possible Roadblocks
1:25 - Does it Level Up?
1:50 - Safety Tips
2:08 - What is the Sprite?
3:18 - Let there be Light!
3:36 - What about the Case?
4:00 - Build Plate Innovations
4:17 - How about that Verdict
4:56 - Shady Dealings????
**Updated** Link to crealities Source Code files: github.com/CrealityOfficial
Distribution rights to video, graphics, images and audio:
Yasmeen Gagnon Rajah-Balee @ YarkspiriFantasyArt.com
Link to trademark:
www.ic.gc.ca/app/opic-cipo/trd...)
Video Recording with OBS Studio:
obsproject.com/help
Digital Software for graphics + Video Editing + Audio Recording:
Affinity Designer and Photo + Davinci Resolve Studio + Adobe Creative Suite 5 - Purchased license
License agreement for StreamBeats.com:
www.streambeats.com/static/pd...
Affinity Serif License Agreement:
affinity.serif.com/en-gb/lice...
Adobe Creative Suite Software License Agreement: www.adobe.com/products/eulas/p...
#CR10SmartPRO #cr-10smartpro #smartproreview - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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This was an amazing thank you. Subbed!
Thank you. I'm happy that you found it useful.
hello Yasmeen and grats for the nice review. Am thinking to buy this printer as a second one after the s1 pro i already own. I have 2 questions. First you cant connect our raspi to usb-c port? this is how i connected to my s1 pro. And second, do i have to work only via the creality cloud crap even with a raspi on it? Thanks
You can, but you need to mod it first. I have a separate video going through that process here. th-cam.com/video/p_dU5J8_wXI/w-d-xo.html With that mod you just have to disconnect and reconnect a couple of connections and your good to go.
Im mainly concerned abou clogging and hen eventually having to replace the whole extruder. Do you find that this printer has extruder that is easy to source?
It has become easier to source the replacement parts and now there are adapters available from other manufacturers, which helps a lot.
Wow. Who are you goddess? I clicked on your video randomly and was blown away by the depth and quality of content. Kind of shocked that you're not one of the top reviewers as far as numbers are concerned. That's an injustice for sure, but stick with it. Cream always rises to the top.
Thank you! One day perhaps, until then I'll keep on working hard at it. :)
Nice work .. Good to see a 'warts & all' review from a 'purchaser' without the bias of a freebie. I've been studying these things for a while prior to taking the plunge. Thank you ... 🇬🇧
No problem. I have gotten a few items for free, but... let's just say one of them got 0/10 as a verdict. Lol.
@@Yarkspiri Thanks for your responses Yasmeen. Appreciated. Do you have an opinion on the Artillery sidewinder ? It's in my evaluation too with the same build volume 300 x 400z. They have a 'volcano' hot end ? Solvay also seem super affordable and a good spec on paper with their SV01 pro (seems like an ender S1pro but not so high temp). Thanks ... 🇬🇧
I haven't tested that machine, so I don't know if the thermal runaway or wire connections are set up properly. I would check to see if the source code is available for that machine, since you'll be able to check the thermal runaway and make sure that it's active. As a general rule, I prefer machines that have made the source code available, since it says a lot about a company.
@@Yarkspiri I read that the firmware for the Creality "CR-10 Smart Pro" is now available.
@@LivingTech It is, but only for the PRO version and not the regular one so far. I mentioned it in another video for another machine review when I found it hidden on Github. It came out a couple of months after this review was posted.
Thanks for the video review, not sure if you still use the printer if you have any further thoughts of reliability a year on?
It's still my daily machine, although other's have had issues with pre-modified versions out of the box. This and the Ender 3 S1 are some of my most reliable machines.
I just received my CR-10 Smart Pro and love it so far.
Was able to buy it for $629. from Amazon seller.
It's a solid machine. Between that and the S1 I can get most of my big projects done.
Great review
Thank you.
fantastic video, thank you. Kind of learning on my friend's printer and agonizing if I want to buy a creality or bambulab. I really would like to not have to upgrade parts, swap things out, etc. I understand having to fix stuff after time, which is totally fine.
Parts have recently become available through 3rd parties, so upgrading the machine is now a lot easier. Happy printing.
Thank you for the video, leveling was a bit tricky but got it worked out. I am having a tough time figuring out the retraction settings, any tips on that please?
Also it appears I managed to get successful prints with the creality slicer, I tried cura and prusaslicer but never got the first layers to print correctly.
Thank you.
For this machine, you'll want to add a custom Gcode to get it to work correctly in Prusa Slicer and Cura. For the retractions, I'm currently using 0.6 with speed of 20 in Cura. I have my full profile along with a full guide for this machine if you're new or intermediate @ yarkspirifantasyart.com/downloadable-content-2/#Guide There are two versions, one for the Regular CR10 Smart and one for the PRO so just make sure to select the correct one.
@@Yarkspiri Thank you SO much for your follow up and reply. I really appreciate it. Happy printing!
No problem! Have fun.
@@Yarkspiri I just purchased your profile files. I found them to be very helpful. Thanks again.
No problem. I'm happy that they helped you out. I'm always looking for some feedback, so if you could let me know what I should add, I'll try to keep in mind.
Is it useful without those upgrades that you replaced right out of the box or is it necessary to do all of those upgrades just to use this printer?
There are two versions of the machine, the *PRO* and the *Regular* . The *Regular* version requires at least the firmware upgrade to make it useful, and most likely the bed levelling. Some of the other upgrades will most likely need to be done should anything break down. The *PRO* didn't require really any upgrades for me out of the box, but the firmware update is useful since it fixes some of the known issues.
What do you do if you accidentally eject the micro SD card from the onboard smart box that is part of the CR-10 smart pro?
If the machine was ***off*** when it happened, you should be able to just put it back in. It's a different story if it was ***on***. You may have to update the files or replace the SD card if it's corrupted.
If you can't get it to work, you'd have two other options. I have a mod video going over how to circumvent the box without damaging anything, or you could reach out to Creality and see if they have the files available.
Hi, great review.
Quick question, my v rollers become loose over different parts of the extrusion, no matter how much i tigheten them. Sometimes i get all of them tight but when ever i start printing and the bed moves all the way towards the screen and back they become loose again. I think thats the reason i cant keep the bed Level. Any ideas on how to fix it? Creality support has been useless.
Thank you
I would double-check the screw and the threads for the bolts to make sure that they haven't become damaged. If the screw keeps loosing, that's normally what's the cause. I would also double-check to make sure that you have even pressure on the wheels so that both sides move freely but still maintain a consistent pressure. Normally, this can be done by using a Hex/allen key to hold the screw in place while you tighten the eccentric nut.
@@Yarkspiri i took apart all the v rollers and checked them, they look fine. When i tighten them i can see that that y carriage gets bend in a way. The two y extrusions feels bend in different places so the rollers are tight but come loose when they move.
This is a printer from hell 🥲
Gonna give it another look and see what to do. Thanks a lot for your time and help. Much appreciated
No problem. I hope you can get your machine fixed.
Hi Yasmeen! Great video! I just received my CR-10 Smart Pro, and have two questions: 1) Is it normal for the bottom edge of the extruder fan to be about 1/2 mm above the part? Any small warping up would mean that the fan crashes on the part. 2) Is there a trick to get Wi-Fi connected? I'm a tech-savvy engineer and anything IT-like is generally no problem to solve. This one has me mildly frustrated. Thank you again for this great video!
1) It should be very close to the same height as the nozzle. Mine is around 4 mm above it.
2) The integrated Wi-Fi Capabilities is absolutely terrible, but is easy to circumvent. You can change a simple connection internally that will give you full access to the USB connector by following this video here. th-cam.com/video/p_dU5J8_wXI/w-d-xo.html Once you've done this you can then connect to a Raspberry Pi s to give you wireless capabilities or connected it directly to your PC and use Pronterface instead.
@@Yarkspiri OK, thank you! My fan bottom is about 0.5mm above the bottom of my nozzle. I set a z-adjustment of -4.75 to be able to get the paper close to the bed, for leveling, and for printing. Something seems wrong there, but with those settings, the bunny turned out perfectly. :)
Good to hear. Happy printing!
Should i get the CR10 Smart or CR10 Smart pro? in Canada the smart pro is double the price of the regular one
The CR10 Smart is only for experienced user's and even then there's quite a bit of work to be done with that machine. The CR10 Smart has a lot less issues out of the box, especially after you've updated the firmware.
A common complaint with this printer, and one that I personally experienced, is that the auto-leveling doesn't appear to actually do much of anything. Some have even said it immediately forgets the mesh prior to printing. When doing a test calibration print, some parts of the print will show the nozzle too close while others will show the nozzle too far. This is after manually leveling the bed with feeler gauges with a fully heated build plate. Isn't the point of the auto-leveling to compensate for minor variations such as these? Is there any actual way to see if the auto-leveling is, in fact, actually doing something?
It does seem like there's a tolerance limit for the calibration and if you don't use the custom start Gcode it won't retain the information. This was especially an issue with the regular CR10 Smart and could be what some people were referring to. Because there are two versions of this machine (the regular and the PRO version) some of the information was confused by some. However, I did find that using the custom START Gcode which was provided by the other TH-camr helped to resolve those issues. th-cam.com/video/bRiRcDY9jG4/w-d-xo.html For those who have my PDF guide for this machine, I've also included the Gcode instructions. While there is a way to test this, I didn't do a full test for this particular machine to rule out the possibility that the information wasn't being retained. Mainly because this model did include a hand levelling system which provided an alternative. This was indeed a limitation of my testing procedures at the time.
Out of the box the CR-10 Smart Pro, or at least mine, has been impossible to level. The z axis was uneven, the bed rollers are loose and the auto level function has now totally failed after a week of trying to get it level. If you want something out of the box with zero hassle you might get lucky with the CR-10 Smart Pro. I have not been lucky and in hind sight would have purchased something more renowned for their quality and spent more money. I'm yet to get a level print.
Also this is a very good channel. I would love to see a video on the bed roller adjustment as there must be a sequence. Thank you for your content!
Thank you, I'm happy that the videos have helped. One thing I found "interesting" as a point of failure is that the connection to the hot end assembly seems to produce the same type of errors as those with a faulty levelling. You may want to double-check that connection, since it was an issue that came up during my testing.
I have heard from many other users that the x gantry and build plate are an issue. When I got the regular CR10 Smart that was the case. You can adjust the eccentric nuts to get them realigned. You may need to take off the hot end assembly to get access to the screw that's behind it while making the adjustment. Double check afterwards that both are rigid and move freely in different locations, since sometimes they may be fine only in one area but not the other.
Unfortunately I would not buy this product again based off my first experience and from what I have read I think I would avoid the brand all together. Seems cheap and slapped together. If you are going to buy this brand I would do the math. This basically needs to be rebuilt, to a large extent, upon arrival. I'll probably return this or sell it and get another brand that is more expensive. The other brand is more expensive I imagine and understand it to be a completed product upon arrive. In my case is the time is most definitely worth the money. Like she says though this particular model has little to no room for modification due to non standard component build sizes. I'm appalled that anyone considers the CR-10 Smart Pro a finished product. Had it been a car it would have be a lemon. Harsh? Which of your appliances or larger purchases require assembly and then troubleshooting the poor manufacturing so that you can use it? Smart? Pro? Neither of these words should be used to describe this model. Creality is cheap. If you value your time I'd consider more renowned brands.
It's one of the main differences between something that's more expensive vs something on the budget side. These budget machines are more geared towards tinkerers thank anything else, which does have its benefits. If you're doing production runs and don't have the time to work them, though, I wouldn't generally recommend a budget machine.
For most of my production works I've actually transitioned to SLA printers, but they also have their own host of issues, so there's still a lot of trial an error when it comes to the first production prints. My very first printer was one that had to be wired and assembled from scratch and although it was a great learning experience, it isn't my recommendation and would probably have gotten a 0 if I were to rate it today.
@@Yarkspiri hehe exactly. I think Creality has to decide what it is making and who it is marketing to. Looks like they are trying to go pro but for what they are offering in the CR-10 Pro and the price I would have rather spend a couple hundred extra and get a printer with a smaller bed and from what I understand less "tinkering". If I were Creality I would offer a higher end machine that matches the quality of the more expensive brands. That way they could take more market share and be more renowned for a higher quality product. What they have ended up doing is tarnishing their brand with something almost as expensive as a high end printer with what I consider tons of tinkering. Maybe I am missing something on their business strategy. Most people I have known who end up with a budget printer become an expert at building 3D printers not designers of things to be printed. That or they give up and don't bother designing anything because printing is such a hassle. So I would have to say the strategy is more of a scam than an actual business model. I am just one guy and everyone has opinions.
Creality aside you are one of my top resources and one of my favourite so I am always grateful for your content and the time you put into your channel
Thank you once again. I'm working on a more overall FDM printer's guide after I finish up the SLA one, so if you have any sticking points in learning 3d printing please let me know since I use this information while making my guides.
I mainly took up 3d printing, so I could prototype and develop my own products without relying on a large cooperation to do so. While I don't believe that to be the intention of most, it is how I see new up-and-coming entrepreneurs developing their own products in the future. I personally have a policy to learn as much about my equipment as possible since I don't want to rely on someone else fixing my machines, but once again I may be the exception? If I had a larger fan base, I would like to ask them that question and see what the results would be. It would be intriguing to see how their 3d printing may have changed their perception and interests over time.
Is there anything I should know prior to trying to print nylon parts or tpu on this machine?
An enclosure with proper filtration for the nylon filament is normally recommended. Nylon is very sensitive to humidity, so you may need to dry it and keep it in a dry box while printing.
TPU is just fine on this machine, so long as you really tweak your settings. For TPU I normally turn off retractions because it can cause jams. To prevent stringing, I work on dialing in my coasting and temperature settings. I've never needed to heat the build plate for TPU, but that may depend on the brand you're using.
@@Yarkspiri Thanks for the info!
@@Yarkspiri My printer is supposed to arrive today 😆
@@Yarkspiri Any recommendations for enclosures with ventilation for this machine? I found one but it was like $600
I have a strong preference for solid steel one's, but those aren't exactly cheap. If you have a metal brake, you can bend your own steel for it and spend the extra on a carbon filter that's designed for that specific use. Unless you really need the nylon, you can normally get away with PETG and TPU instead. What are you planning on using it for?
Would you recommend this over the cr10s pro V2?
Yes. It's a solid machine, if a bit pricey at the moment. If you're able to get it during a sale, then it would be a solid pick.
Can this machine hold a 2kg Spool?
I wouldn't put something that large on the top of the machine. It would be better to have a separate holder for that. I use a filament guide that I designed on my other machines.
Can you recommend a comparable machine with the same price point?
I personally found the original cr10 V3 to be a more solid machine, simply because there are so many mods and upgrade available from the community. However, that being said, I haven't tested any other machines of that size lately, so there could be quite a few more capable one's on the market right now.
I had the cr-10 v3. Worked great when it worked. But the spare parts are being obsolete to source now. I'm now looking at this printer... Hoping I don't come across a component sourcing issue.
Okay, so I paid the couple of dollars to get your survival package for this printer, but EVERYTHING appears to be corrupted upon trying to open it. So I need another download or a refund.
Ok give a sec to see what happened.
Could you check your order confirmation email? And retry that specific link.
Did you unzip the file first? It worked on my end, so please let me If I need to resend it to you manually.
Tbh, I'm a bit confused about Creality's user agreement thing at the end of the video. What content are we talking about here? Something that you post using their "mall" platform or their cloud platform or something else? Because when you say "as a youtuber" are you implying that it would give them rights to your youtube content? Because I can't imagine there being any legal ground for enforcing something like this, at least not in Canada or the US. Now, if you upload something to their servers then that could be a different story. Which begs the question, are they in any way implying that they own the 3D models that you'd uploaded to the cloud for the sole purpose of sending them to your printer?
Essentially, the wording is very aggressive. If you post anything within their website they would own the rights to it but..... It can be changed without any notice, so in theory it could always be expanded to include more. So any photo's or STL's on anything really they could use it with their own products and promotional material without first getting consent to use it or give credit. In theory, if someone illegally posted one of my guides, they would technically own it afterwards. The backlash would be immense, but they would first have to get caught doing it. It also means that any post could also be taken out of context to make their company look better. Given the current terms, If I posted one on of my videos, they would own the rights and could claim it for monetization revenue.
Should be 100 bucks less in my opinion for what you get. I feel the same for the ender 3 s1 pro but still going to buy one soon.
Ya, the price is a bit steep. But it is also one of the most complete machines I've seen the company put out. If they had the upgrade kit for the regular version, then anyone who's had that machine, could upgrade it to the same specs. It's probably why they haven't made that firmware available as yet. Good news is that they have released the source code for this machine, and I'm hoping that they'll do the same for the remainder of their lineup, including the regular version.
I mean you can't really get any cheaper 🤔
I’m fed up with Creality. They’re kind of a shady company too. They make their printers so they’ll be reliable for a little while, just long enough so people will leave a good Amazon review. My Ender 3V2 is a decent printer but it’s required so many “upgrades” (aka replacing parts that should have worked in the first place) and so much “tinkering” (aka fixing it) that it’s not even the same printer as when I bought it.
While I have found they do need to take their time when releasing a product, I've had better experiences with them than most, BUT that doesn't mean it's ok. Most of these companies are focused on releasing a product quickly rather than doing something well and while I appreciate the innovations they need to take their time before releasing something to the market. The Regular CR10 Smart is a great example of this. It was released far before it's time, at which point they released the PRO version with the fixes. In Reality, there should have only been one machine released, and it was this one.
I have made my opinions known about the Creality Cloud in my Review of the Creality Wifi kit, and find that forcing this product and services isn't in the best interest of their clients. I do appreciate that we now have access to the full source code for that device, which does make them currently more transparent, but it took almost a year for this to be the case. So ya.... they've got their work cut out for them.
@@Yarkspiri Yeah exactly so many features but they should perfect a few features that work well instead of overloading it with fancy tech! I appreciate your honest review of the CR-10. I feel like a lot of TH-camrs are “bought off” by these print companies and just say nice things about the devices.
It's one of the reason why sponsorships for me can be difficult. I tell them from the beginning that they will be getting an unbiased review, and I warn them what I'll be checking for. While some may send me some notes and features, I don't guarantee to say everything that they provide me with. Almost everything that I've reviewed I've bought myself, so I know it's the same product that the customer will be getting as well. My very first machine that I got was a lemon and a safety hazard but..... luckily I was able to learn from that experience, and it's why I care so much about the honesty. I don't want anyone else to go through what I did because most people would have just given up.
Just bought this for 499
That's an awesome price!
I would never buy another creality printer again. i just bought the 3 s1 pro and it never has worked from the first day out of the box. Tech support sucks I cant find out what is wrong with it. So people, unless you have money to blow, I would not waste your money with them.
What were the issues you ran into? I have the Ender 3 S1, but not the PRO version.
@@Yarkspiri I get the temperature set find the file I want to print hit the play button then it never prints it just stays at the home
Are you using the SD card that came with the machine?
Forget marlin just klipperize it
Agreed, although it might be best to disconnect it from the main board while loading the firmware, since I'm unsure as to how that might affect the machine. At the time, I hadn't heard of someone successfully adding Klipper, so perhaps that has changed and made it a viable option.
never buy such a crap or anything of this brand
Some of their products are good BUT they do tend to use their customer's as beta testers.