I was so excited after watching this video as I needed a charger for my lithium RV battery. I ordered one from Amazon and thought nothing of ordering the cables separately. I ended up with the wrong cables. Can someone please talk to me like I am a 5-year-old and give me the correct cable size? Maybe an Amazon link? Please? The company is woefully inept at communicating with a layperson.
Interestingly enough, I did a modification where I replaced two 6 volt lead acid batteries, on the tongue, and with a 400AH Lithium battery and moved it inside. I have an older unit (2019 E-Pro 19BH) and thought I may need to replace the converter or add a lithium capable charger like the one you featured in this video. My converter is a WFCO 8735P, which was pretty standard in these units at that time (not designed to charge lithium batteries to 100%). To my surprise, the converter DID charge my lithium battery to 100% (I conducted the test at night to eliminate the effects that my roof mounted solar panel could have on charging). One final point, I did have to upgrade my stock WFCO inverter to a newer one because after I did all of my mods, the old inverter produced an error. Don't know if that had anything to do with it or not. Great video by the way!
To keep my motorhome's chassis battery lead (EFB) or LiFe? Does converting an older motorhome open a can of worms, or is it fairly simple? The '87 Airstream 345 I'm restoring currently has 3 lead acid batteries in the bay. 2 for the coach and 1 for the chassis. All three need to be replaced, so would seem the best time to go LiFe is now. I'm expecting to replace the (still original but working) LA converter to a Li capable converter for charging the new batteries from shore or genny power. Also need to add a DC-DC charger to provide charge from the engine alternator. Some day I'll add solar too, just budgeting for the biggest Li bank I can build for now. My question's about the start/chassis battery (for engine and dash electronics.) Would/should the start/chassis battery remain separate from the coach battery or would my new bank do it all?
Can you pull / replace the rv converter out of a wfco and retro fit this in its place to both charge the camper as well as run internal 12v appliances like a converter would? It would be great if Victron made a "Rv Converter".
My inverter (3000 w Zantrex) does not have a charger. I have 400W solar and replaced my converter with a lithium capable one (auto everything). Because of the solar, should I turn off the converter- conflict ?
Can you set your solar charger controller to lithium and continue to use the standard lead acid converter/charger? Or because these are 2 different charge profiles they may conflict?
Great question. So the standard charger has 3 charge modes (bulk -14.2, absorb 13.6, float 13.2 It wouldn’t hurt the battery,, it would be just lower than what the battery needs. Basically the converter would help once the LI is below 13.2. But you are relying only on the solar panel to sufficiently charge the battery.
One thing I'm confused about, my existing charger is a "converter charger" so my understanding is that it is converting AC to DC for lights etc. when I'm on shore power. So do I leave that installed for that purpose, and just add this charger for a lithium battery so that it will charge the battery to close to 100%? Also, this charger being 30A - I think my 120V AC circuits in my RV have a max 20 A draw - so will this IP 22 pop the breaker you think?
If the coach has a Battery Isolation Manager system to charge batteries while driving from the alternator, will that system be enough to charge a lithium battery?
So it can if the alternator is pushing 14 volts to 14.6. Not when it’s below. Next it will be limited on what the alternator can do. But yes it will slowly charge.
Man, I was hoping to make the bloopers since all my stuff fell out of my binder? 😬 Not my fault btw, someone moved my stuff 😁. Never got to say sorry though , sorry 🫣
When switching from lead acid batteries to lithium, Can the IP22 be a full permanent replacement, of the original battery charger that came with my camper, for lead acid batteries? Great videos, much appreciated!!
@@denniskwasnycia1950 just math. If they are dead, it will take the ip22 6.67 hours to charge them. 200ah/30a=6.67h. So if you can wait., yes... If you are running other things that are also using power while charging, it will take longer... Ie if your lights are on and fridge is using 10 amps, then only 20 is going in the batteries...
It would help to know exactly where your confusion lies. There are a lot of aspects to charging batteries, differences between batteries, different ways to charge batteries, etc. NRVTA are great at answering questions, when they understand the question.
I was so excited after watching this video as I needed a charger for my lithium RV battery. I ordered one from Amazon and thought nothing of ordering the cables separately. I ended up with the wrong cables. Can someone please talk to me like I am a 5-year-old and give me the correct cable size? Maybe an Amazon link? Please? The company is woefully inept at communicating with a layperson.
Interestingly enough, I did a modification where I replaced two 6 volt lead acid batteries, on the tongue, and with a 400AH Lithium battery and moved it inside. I have an older unit (2019 E-Pro 19BH) and thought I may need to replace the converter or add a lithium capable charger like the one you featured in this video. My converter is a WFCO 8735P, which was pretty standard in these units at that time (not designed to charge lithium batteries to 100%). To my surprise, the converter DID charge my lithium battery to 100% (I conducted the test at night to eliminate the effects that my roof mounted solar panel could have on charging). One final point, I did have to upgrade my stock WFCO inverter to a newer one because after I did all of my mods, the old inverter produced an error. Don't know if that had anything to do with it or not. Great video by the way!
Tood what about a video about the problems with the alternator in my motorhome when switching to lithium.
To keep my motorhome's chassis battery lead (EFB) or LiFe?
Does converting an older motorhome open a can of worms, or is it fairly simple?
The '87 Airstream 345 I'm restoring currently has 3 lead acid batteries in the bay. 2 for the coach and 1 for the chassis. All three need to be replaced, so would seem the best time to go LiFe is now.
I'm expecting to replace the (still original but working) LA converter to a Li capable converter for charging the new batteries from shore or genny power. Also need to add a DC-DC charger to provide charge from the engine alternator. Some day I'll add solar too, just budgeting for the biggest Li bank I can build for now.
My question's about the start/chassis battery (for engine and dash electronics.) Would/should the start/chassis battery remain separate from the coach battery or would my new bank do it all?
Can you pull / replace the rv converter out of a wfco and retro fit this in its place to both charge the camper as well as run internal 12v appliances like a converter would? It would be great if Victron made a "Rv Converter".
A car’s alternator charges a car battery at +/-14.4DCV. Why would a camper converter limit itself to 12V?
What if you have 2 100ah batteries in parallel?
I have an inverter with build in charger which can be set for the type of battery your using. What are your thoughts on this kind of unit?
How much is RV equipment
How will your truck charge that battery going down the road?
Use a DC to DC charger such as a Victron Orion DC to DC charger.
Not very well with out a dc-dc charger
My inverter (3000 w Zantrex) does not have a charger. I have 400W solar and replaced my converter with a lithium capable one (auto everything). Because of the solar, should I turn off the converter- conflict ?
There should not be any conflict between your solar charge controller and your converter. Both are low voltage DC.
Can you set your solar charger controller to lithium and continue to use the standard lead acid converter/charger? Or because these are 2 different charge profiles they may conflict?
Great question.
So the standard charger has 3 charge modes (bulk -14.2, absorb 13.6, float 13.2
It wouldn’t hurt the battery,, it would be just lower than what the battery needs.
Basically the converter would help once the LI is below 13.2. But you are relying only on the solar panel to sufficiently charge the battery.
One thing I'm confused about, my existing charger is a "converter charger" so my understanding is that it is converting AC to DC for lights etc. when I'm on shore power. So do I leave that installed for that purpose, and just add this charger for a lithium battery so that it will charge the battery to close to 100%? Also, this charger being 30A - I think my 120V AC circuits in my RV have a max 20 A draw - so will this IP 22 pop the breaker you think?
no
If the coach has a Battery Isolation Manager system to charge batteries while driving from the alternator, will that system be enough to charge a lithium battery?
So it can if the alternator is pushing 14 volts to 14.6. Not when it’s below. Next it will be limited on what the alternator can do. But yes it will slowly charge.
If I am adding lithium batteries and a charger, do I eliminate the converter.
Yep
Correct. Make sure your charger is lithium capable
Can I use the IP 22 in my 50 amp rv?
😊
Man, I was hoping to make the bloopers since all my stuff fell out of my binder? 😬 Not my fault btw, someone moved my stuff 😁. Never got to say sorry though , sorry 🫣
Gotta love those bloopers! 😅
When switching from lead acid batteries to lithium, Can the IP22 be a full permanent replacement, of the original battery charger that came with my camper, for lead acid batteries? Great videos, much appreciated!!
Yes, but It’s limited to 30 amps per hour to charge. You can get larger chargers but they are more expensive
@@NationalRVTrainingAcademy So the next question is, I have two 12v 100ah lithium batteries, is the 30 amp charger sufficient?
@@denniskwasnycia1950 just math. If they are dead, it will take the ip22 6.67 hours to charge them. 200ah/30a=6.67h. So if you can wait., yes... If you are running other things that are also using power while charging, it will take longer... Ie if your lights are on and fridge is using 10 amps, then only 20 is going in the batteries...
So confused.
It would help to know exactly where your confusion lies. There are a lot of aspects to charging batteries, differences between batteries, different ways to charge batteries, etc. NRVTA are great at answering questions, when they understand the question.