Update: I used your method and it corrected the back bow. I heated the neck for 10 hours straight. As the neck heated up I constantly tightened the strings when they started to lose tension. I also gently applied pressure on the neck by hand every hour or so. The results were stunning. Thanks a bunch for this video. It saved my guitar from the trash heap. I can string the guitar with 9's now and have relief to spare.
Great instruction! If it hasn't been said, I thought about putting a metal riser nut (like for Hawaiian/Raised string slide style conversion) over the existing nut. This would keep the larger wound strings from cutting into smaller string slots. The additional temporary nut height may help with the pulling tension as well. Have you had success with one piece maple Fender necks, with the walnut filler strip in the backside?
I kept seeing heart pads used but your the first to tell me one in particular that will work for this, was worth a subscription, thank you, dealing with this issue now lol
I just have to add to all the success stories here over the last 4 yrs. I am building a partscaster (Jazzmaster style) guitar. The body came from somewhere in Europe, and the neck is a licensed All Parts neck. They both however then traveled to Northern Ireland for a Nitro aged finish and nut/fretwork session before they were then sent all the way to Boulder Colorado - which is super arid at almsot 6000 feet. Thus, I fault no one on the fact that by the time I got this neck it had a back bow of about 1/16th of an inch with the truss rod completely loose. I followed the video, and wrapped the neck in a heating pad that maintained 150 degrees measured with a meat thermometer at the wood. I used 46/36/26-26/36/46 and took the E's up 2 steps to start and matched the tension by just tuning to the 5th fret on the other two notes. Total time wrapped and heated over three days (same deal as the video I had to reset every 2 hours with the auto shut-off) was about 20 - 22 hours. I readjusted the string tension 2 times a day. Finally after the 3 days of heat, I let it sit for another 5 days at room temp under tension. I just got finished with the final set up, using 10-46 strings, .006 relief, and my preferred med-low action 1.5mm low E and 1.25 high E - it set up perfectly with the truss rod just barley engaged. I will say I had no issues at all with the nitro on the neck at that temp. It did however hasten fret sprout. This is not a problem for me as it happens to every single guitar I’ve had that lives in these weather conditions, if anything it was a benefit for me to just get it over with now - but be aware this may happen, or be surprised if you are not used to it. Thanks again I learned a great deal with this problem and solution!
I like this method, i have seen many people using irons & clamps and weights and all manner of methods, this seems nice and gradual giving alot of chance to measure progress and bring things into alignment under string pressure.. Thanks
Another success story to report. This was an inexpensive Squier Contemporary (left handed...my choices are limited). With the truss rod completely loose strings in tune, the neck was dead flat with a slight back bow around the second and third fret so the first and second frets buzzed badly. This is a solid maple neck and fretboard (with skunk stripe), which Iot of people suggest in other places is not repairable, claiming application of heat causes the fretboard to reseat on the neck. I bought an $18 heating pad (12x14) without auto shutoff on Amazon. With the cover off, I slid it under the strings (EADDAE), wrapped it around the neck and strapped it down with a long Velcro strap. I replaced the trem springs with five extra stiff springs to deck the bridge under the extra tension. And I tightened the heck of the strings. I heated for 30 hours and cooled for about 24. I strung it up with 10s and got enough relief that I could probably add a touch of truss rod. Success with a maple neck!
I just want to say 'Thank you!' Using your method, and getting tips from the comments, I was able to straighten out a backbow on a '62 Jazzmaster that had bugged me for years.
THANK YOU! I've spent my entire practice time for the last 2 days trying to increase the relief on my Epiphone LP Custom Adam Jones Signature (Veil of Bees if anyone is wondering which one). I thought I was going to have to take it in to the shop to get it fixed or return it if I couldn't get it fixed. I reached the point where it felt like it was about to be so loose the screw/bolt or whatever the heck is in there was going to come out completely so I was scared that was going to be a serious problem. I have searched google, TH-cam, Epiphone website, etc. and your video is the first one I've seen that mentioned it might be a dual action rod and to keep loosening cause it'll grab tension again. I'm so relieved but honestly a little embarrassed and mad at myself for wasting all my practice time! So, again, thank you very much!
Great idea. I had severe backbow in a ibanez replacement neck with the truss rod completely loosened until it stopped. I found when I applied some pressure to add some relief I was able to loosen it some more and gain some relief. Not sure if it had a double truss rod, it was a MIC jem neck.
Nice video and great info and great idea w/the heating pad!. I am an electric player, but recently was given an acoustic guitar that is back-bowed from about the 5th fret to the nut. I could barely turn the truss rod nut a 1/16th of a turn to loosen it, and did not want to force it...(This truss rod nut is at the head stock on this acoustic), so hoping by de-tuning the strings to release the back tension on the neck will work. If the nut is still stuck (or extremely hard to turn where you might break/strip it), are there any lubricants that can be sprayed in there to help loosen the nut up? Thanks and very well done video. Giving you a sub for a great idea w/heating the neck. Phil Jersey Shore Area
@Syd McCreath It took me 6 attempts to come up with some sort of reply, simply because of your irrational use of caps lock and misunderstanding of literally a single word, is leaving me extremely confused. Have a good day, random internet stranger.
I once had a guitar with too much relief. What I did to it was I just left all the strings loose and placed the guitar in case with silica gel for 1-2 weeks. You can use a guitar dehumidifier as an alternative to silica gel. I don't know if this method works all the time but it surely did for me.
yeah, thats cool! i have a 66 musicmaster neck, refretted, it's totally straight and impossibile to get some upbow that it needs... maybe the frets are to big in the slots! unsure if i do this or refret it...
Thanks for the video. I have a 40 year old Flying V, my first guitar, with this issue. I followed your steps over 3 days and it put some relief in the neck. We will see what happens now that I put normal strings on it. Worst case I will do this again but leave it for a week.
I have a Tele reissue that has the treble side closet to the headstock a bit higher than the bass side. Can I essentially put thicker strings on the bass side ie:48- - - - 42 before putting the heat wrap on too twist the neck back giving me more clearance on the treble side again?
I really enjoyed your video. Thank you for posting it. I found a Sunbeam heating pad, but can't get my strings to stay in the nut slots (wound E won't fit in high E slot and keeps sliding off). Do I just need to use smaller strings at each side? I would love to try this. Thank you.
The strings don’t have to stay in the slots at all for this part. They only need to supply the tension for this fix not playability. Hope this helps. Let me know if it worked for you. Thanks for watching.
I bought a brand new bass guitar for 1200 dollars, I don’t really know much about guitars. I bought it for studio use. I find out after the return period was over that my friend told me the neck was so severely back bowed that it would have to be removed to be straightened. I really want to do your method, but I’ve never even changed strings before. Could this work on a bass, and if so what other resources should I check for any other knowledge I need for doing this?
Was about to try and steam and clamp my bass guitar neck because I didn't realize I had a "two way truss rod". This video literally just saved me a ton of money. Subscribed good sir! Thanks
Great video! Question: would this method work with a slightly warped neck (bit more relief on the unwound strings)? As you put equal tension on the neck using 6 identical strings?
Actually, if you bring all the bridge sadles to the same position, you should be able to use identical gage strings and tune them to have uniform tension all across.
Will that work on the other relief bow my old gretsch country classic is a 30 year old guitar and the neck is warped it frets out on fret number 8 or 4th dot on neck. sub to your channel.
It will work in any situation without damaging any guitar. This process only applies to a "back bow" where you are not getting enough relief on the neck. If you have a neck with too much relief then you would have to make a clamp to pull it back the other way. This guy is one of the BEST builders on TH-cam and he has an excellent video addressing this method (Freddy Gabrsek) th-cam.com/video/1v5i8sEJ2LQ/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps and thanks for the sub!
Hi, great video. I've a similar problem but with the bend being the other way. How would you deal with a guitar with too much relief - more than I can remove with the truss rod?
how longer sunbeam flex fit did you use. just that there's a couple of sizes 36" & 42" ((edit)) I just spotted you used the 42". Woul It be possible to use the 32" or would you suggest the longer wrap?
Yes, it is the same, just make sure you don't put too much pressure on the neck joint. If you see any lift or cracking, you may have to go a different route.
hey mate! such a nice video it helped my guitar a lot!!! great job thank you for it! :) but may I have a question? after this, I feel like my guitar strings are tight, or "stiff" in the same tuning what I used before. with the same gauge ofstrings. I tried new strings, with straight neck and nice action. I tried everything, but my strings just feels "stiff". I dont know what to do. . where can be the problem? thank you for every help
I have never encountered this issue on the same instrument. I have felt the difference when changing guitar scale lengths (Fender to PRS or Gibson etc) I guess if you fixed the severe backbow with this method your guitar could feel like a whole new instrument now that it is decent spec.
loosen all the strings and leave an attached neck alone on the guitar. The trussrod nut will tighten a bit more and make a bit more backbow (a slightly flatter fretboard) when the strings are NOT under tension....
How many times a day were you running it? I know you said 2 hour intervals. Does that mean you're leaving it on for 2 hours, leaving it off for 2 hours, then turning it back on, and doing this like 3 or 4 times until you go to bed?
Also what gauge string should I use? I have 11s on a Tele now, but I might get 2 sets of 10s for this experiment. P.P.S. When you say to let let cool under string tension, do you mean the strings we put on to do this, or the strings that would normally go on it?
You probably have a couple of high frets past the 12th. You will need a fret rocker to check each one and you’ll have to file and re-crown the offending article.
Might sound like a stupid question... but why would you want to try and guess the tension?... Can't you just tune them all up to an A 440 (or lower) for example ? Ha ok lol, i've just realized why while I was typing this question, this is in the case where you don't know the string gauge of each string i'm guessing ? But I guess if you use all 42 for example you just tune them to the same pitch... Anyways good idea the heat belt, coz you can't find those specialized fretboard heaters anymore (well not in my country anyways). I've had an SMO fat that doesn't have enough relief (I think it's because the maple is so hard) and I was trying to find a heat solution, this sounds good and not expensive.
I left the heat on in 2 hour intervals for 3 days. May have been overkill, but since I couldn’t keep it running constantly I felt the more the better. How much relief are you looking to gain?
@@s.h.guitarworks3309 it's a similar situation as your video. With the truss rod completely loose and strung with 11's it's barely enough relief. I would like to use 10's and be able to engage the truss rod so it won't rattle.
I have one like that. Loose rod but still not enough relief. I'd like to dress the frets, trouble is, I'm scared to straighten the neck in case it doesn't slacken off again! 😂
String tension will add the relief needed; that is how single-action truss rods work. String tension will add too much relief. I have worked on and built guitars for decades, and the goal, without strings, is a neck as flat as Florida (the most flat state in the union). When leveling the frets, a straight neck is correct; use a notched straight edge.
Aren't strings guaged to hold equal tension across the board? Why do you think smaller strings hold less tension? It's the player who sets the tension, not the string guage.
The amount of tension required to bend the neck snaps the thinner strings. You are probably cranking them 3 notes higher depending on how much relief you need to add.
i am more surprised to hear you guys throw your guitar like i have got a guitar which is like the string is way up towards the sky and he neck is like way down on the earth its like heaven and earth but still it works so no being choosey
Why? Is there a significant danger of delamination? I'm finishing building a Firebird-style neck-through with a 9-ply laminate, and have to correct the backbow before I can level the frets. This seems a reasonable approach.
Has it been 9 minutes and 37 seconds already? Cause it felt like about a fucking hour. I could have went, had the neck adjusted, picked up lunch, came home And this video would still be going
@@s.h.guitarworks3309 I'll take even more time to leave a comment on your comment! I'll keep this going for the next 40 years. Also, I got the neck fixed.
Update: I used your method and it corrected the back bow. I heated the neck for 10 hours straight. As the neck heated up I constantly tightened the strings when they started to lose tension. I also gently applied pressure on the neck by hand every hour or so. The results were stunning.
Thanks a bunch for this video. It saved my guitar from the trash heap. I can string the guitar with 9's now and have relief to spare.
That’s great news! Thanks for watching and I’m glad it helped.
I have the same issue. Could you tell me where I could find a heating pad.
@@qua7771 Amazon
Great instruction! If it hasn't been said, I thought about putting a metal riser nut (like for Hawaiian/Raised string slide style conversion) over the existing nut. This would keep the larger wound strings from cutting into smaller string slots. The additional temporary nut height may help with the pulling tension as well. Have you had success with one piece maple Fender necks, with the walnut filler strip in the backside?
@@s.h.guitarworks3309
Would this work without damaging a nitro finish on the back of the neck?
I kept seeing heart pads used but your the first to tell me one in particular that will work for this, was worth a subscription, thank you, dealing with this issue now lol
Finally, a use for all my old E strings I have been saving.
I just have to add to all the success stories here over the last 4 yrs. I am building a partscaster (Jazzmaster style) guitar. The body came from somewhere in Europe, and the neck is a licensed All Parts neck. They both however then traveled to Northern Ireland for a Nitro aged finish and nut/fretwork session before they were then sent all the way to Boulder Colorado - which is super arid at almsot 6000 feet. Thus, I fault no one on the fact that by the time I got this neck it had a back bow of about 1/16th of an inch with the truss rod completely loose. I followed the video, and wrapped the neck in a heating pad that maintained 150 degrees measured with a meat thermometer at the wood. I used 46/36/26-26/36/46 and took the E's up 2 steps to start and matched the tension by just tuning to the 5th fret on the other two notes. Total time wrapped and heated over three days (same deal as the video I had to reset every 2 hours with the auto shut-off) was about 20 - 22 hours. I readjusted the string tension 2 times a day. Finally after the 3 days of heat, I let it sit for another 5 days at room temp under tension. I just got finished with the final set up, using 10-46 strings, .006 relief, and my preferred med-low action 1.5mm low E and 1.25 high E - it set up perfectly with the truss rod just barley engaged. I will say I had no issues at all with the nitro on the neck at that temp. It did however hasten fret sprout. This is not a problem for me as it happens to every single guitar I’ve had that lives in these weather conditions, if anything it was a benefit for me to just get it over with now - but be aware this may happen, or be surprised if you are not used to it. Thanks again I learned a great deal with this problem and solution!
I like this method, i have seen many people using irons & clamps and weights and all manner of methods, this seems nice and gradual giving alot of chance to measure progress and bring things into alignment under string pressure.. Thanks
Another success story to report. This was an inexpensive Squier Contemporary (left handed...my choices are limited). With the truss rod completely loose strings in tune, the neck was dead flat with a slight back bow around the second and third fret so the first and second frets buzzed badly.
This is a solid maple neck and fretboard (with skunk stripe), which Iot of people suggest in other places is not repairable, claiming application of heat causes the fretboard to reseat on the neck.
I bought an $18 heating pad (12x14) without auto shutoff on Amazon. With the cover off, I slid it under the strings (EADDAE), wrapped it around the neck and strapped it down with a long Velcro strap. I replaced the trem springs with five extra stiff springs to deck the bridge under the extra tension. And I tightened the heck of the strings.
I heated for 30 hours and cooled for about 24. I strung it up with 10s and got enough relief that I could probably add a touch of truss rod.
Success with a maple neck!
I just want to say 'Thank you!' Using your method, and getting tips from the comments, I was able to straighten out a backbow on a '62 Jazzmaster that had bugged me for years.
You are welcome!
THANK YOU! I've spent my entire practice time for the last 2 days trying to increase the relief on my Epiphone LP Custom Adam Jones Signature (Veil of Bees if anyone is wondering which one). I thought I was going to have to take it in to the shop to get it fixed or return it if I couldn't get it fixed. I reached the point where it felt like it was about to be so loose the screw/bolt or whatever the heck is in there was going to come out completely so I was scared that was going to be a serious problem. I have searched google, TH-cam, Epiphone website, etc. and your video is the first one I've seen that mentioned it might be a dual action rod and to keep loosening cause it'll grab tension again. I'm so relieved but honestly a little embarrassed and mad at myself for wasting all my practice time! So, again, thank you very much!
You can’t play good anyway so it’s fine
This is ther most brilliant trcik I have ever seen ! Big thanks !!!
Great idea. I had severe backbow in a ibanez replacement neck with the truss rod completely loosened until it stopped. I found when I applied some pressure to add some relief I was able to loosen it some more and gain some relief. Not sure if it had a double truss rod, it was a MIC jem neck.
Excellent tutorial 👌 thanks so much 🙏
Nice video and great info and great idea w/the heating pad!.
I am an electric player, but recently was given an acoustic guitar that is back-bowed from about the 5th fret to the nut. I could barely turn the truss rod nut a 1/16th of a turn to loosen it, and did not want to force it...(This truss rod nut is at the head stock on this acoustic), so hoping by de-tuning the strings to release the back tension on the neck will work.
If the nut is still stuck (or extremely hard to turn where you might break/strip it), are there any lubricants that can be sprayed in there to help loosen the nut up?
Thanks and very well done video. Giving you a sub for a great idea w/heating the neck.
Phil
Jersey Shore Area
Sweet! I have an inexpensive mandolin that has no trussrod. I'm going to try the heating pad with some clamps and see if I can straighten it out.
So?
@Syd McCreath It wasn't "So?" as a snob. Its "So?" as in progress update?
@Syd McCreath It took me 6 attempts to come up with some sort of reply, simply because of your irrational use of caps lock and misunderstanding of literally a single word, is leaving me extremely confused. Have a good day, random internet stranger.
Thank you. How can I use this method to fix up bow (relief too much)? Especially I have an up bow on first three frets.
I once had a guitar with too much relief.
What I did to it was I just left all the strings loose and placed the guitar in case with silica gel for 1-2 weeks. You can use a guitar dehumidifier as an alternative to silica gel. I don't know if this method works all the time but it surely did for me.
yeah, thats cool! i have a 66 musicmaster neck, refretted, it's totally straight and impossibile to get some upbow that it needs... maybe the frets are to big in the slots! unsure if i do this or refret it...
This method saved a mid 90s Les Paul Studio I worked on from becoming firewood. Hopefully this same method works on a vintage Fender neck.
How hot does the pad get?
Can I ask where did you have and leave the truss rod adjusted when you were heating things up?
Thanks for the video. I have a 40 year old Flying V, my first guitar, with this issue. I followed your steps over 3 days and it put some relief in the neck. We will see what happens now that I put normal strings on it. Worst case I will do this again but leave it for a week.
You’re very welcome!
What a “relief”! Thanks !
Do you turn off the electric wrap when you leave the shop at night?
How would this go on a little Martin with the HPL neck? Would it perhaps cause delamination?
Excellent work. Thanks for detailed commentary. Really appreciate it.
Worked like a charm for me as well! Thanks for the post!!
How many hours did you have to leave heat on it? Mine didn't straighten after 6 hours. I'm trying again.
I have a Tele reissue that has the treble side closet to the headstock a bit higher than the bass side. Can I essentially put thicker strings on the bass side ie:48- - - - 42 before putting the heat wrap on too twist the neck back giving me more clearance on the treble side again?
I really enjoyed your video. Thank you for posting it. I found a Sunbeam heating pad, but can't get my strings to stay in the nut slots (wound E won't fit in high E slot and keeps sliding off). Do I just need to use smaller strings at each side? I would love to try this. Thank you.
The strings don’t have to stay in the slots at all for this part. They only need to supply the tension for this fix not playability. Hope this helps. Let me know if it worked for you. Thanks for watching.
You think the sun light would help?
Here in my city have like 36 degrees daily
My banjo is bowed up in the middle of the neck but i don’t know what to do
Thank you, a great idea.
Did it work?
I bought a brand new bass guitar for 1200 dollars, I don’t really know much about guitars. I bought it for studio use. I find out after the return period was over that my friend told me the neck was so severely back bowed that it would have to be removed to be straightened. I really want to do your method, but I’ve never even changed strings before. Could this work on a bass, and if so what other resources should I check for any other knowledge I need for doing this?
Thanks for the tutorial - much appreciated.
You are very welcome Shaun. Hope it saves your guitar as well 👍🏻
Was about to try and steam and clamp my bass guitar neck because I didn't realize I had a "two way truss rod". This video literally just saved me a ton of money. Subscribed good sir! Thanks
Glad I could help!
What about a neck with too much forward bow?
Great video! Question: would this method work with a slightly warped neck (bit more relief on the unwound strings)? As you put equal tension on the neck using 6 identical strings?
Should you mess with humidly in room ?…..take out humidity ?
what to do if the trussrod is tight and hard but still bowed up

what to do if the trussrod is tight and hard but still bowed up

Actually, if you bring all the bridge sadles to the same position, you should be able to use identical gage strings and tune them to have uniform tension all across.
Sunbeam got back to me and said the Flex Wrap reaches 175°F, which is plenty hot to achieve our goal.
Will it work on maple fretboard?
Will that work on the other relief bow my old gretsch country classic is a 30 year old guitar and the neck is warped it frets out on fret number 8 or 4th dot on neck. sub to your channel.
It will work in any situation without damaging any guitar. This process only applies to a "back bow" where you are not getting enough relief on the neck. If you have a neck with too much relief then you would have to make a clamp to pull it back the other way. This guy is one of the BEST builders on TH-cam and he has an excellent video addressing this method (Freddy Gabrsek) th-cam.com/video/1v5i8sEJ2LQ/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps and thanks for the sub!
@@s.h.guitarworks3309 Thank you very much.
Hi, great video. I've a similar problem but with the bend being the other way. How would you deal with a guitar with too much relief - more than I can remove with the truss rod?
how longer sunbeam flex fit did you use. just that there's a couple of sizes 36" & 42"
((edit)) I just spotted you used the 42". Woul It be possible to use the 32" or would you suggest the longer wrap?
I assume it's the process with a bolt on neck? I have a 1991 peavey predator with the same issue.
Yes, it is the same, just make sure you don't put too much pressure on the neck joint. If you see any lift or cracking, you may have to go a different route.
like the heat but would have fear of collapsing bridge think clamp would do the same without stressing all other components
Pretty difficult to clamp a "neck through" non bolt on style guitar and apply the exact pressure needed to not twist the neck and add relief.
will this heating method harm a vintage nitro-finished Gibson's paint or binding?
Doubtful it would harm the finish. Binding glue? Possibly…
Im doing the same for years with my classic guitars.I leave it for 2-3 months 8 hours a day.
hey mate! such a nice video it helped my guitar a lot!!! great job thank you for it! :) but may I have a question? after this, I feel like my guitar strings are tight, or "stiff" in the same tuning what I used before. with the same gauge ofstrings. I tried new strings, with straight neck and nice action. I tried everything, but my strings just feels "stiff". I dont know what to do. . where can be the problem? thank you for every help
I have never encountered this issue on the same instrument. I have felt the difference when changing guitar scale lengths (Fender to PRS or Gibson etc) I guess if you fixed the severe backbow with this method your guitar could feel like a whole new instrument now that it is decent spec.
Well done !
loosen all the strings and leave an attached neck alone on the guitar. The trussrod nut will tighten a bit more and make a bit more backbow (a slightly flatter fretboard) when the strings are NOT under tension....
How many times a day were you running it? I know you said 2 hour intervals. Does that mean you're leaving it on for 2 hours, leaving it off for 2 hours, then turning it back on, and doing this like 3 or 4 times until you go to bed?
Also what gauge string should I use? I have 11s on a Tele now, but I might get 2 sets of 10s for this experiment.
P.P.S. When you say to let let cool under string tension, do you mean the strings we put on to do this, or the strings that would normally go on it?
how hot do you set the flex wrap? do you just crank it?
also, somebody else asked what you mean by 2h intervals. i'd like to know as well.
simply wrap it around the middle and velcro it. The wrap actually shuts off every 2 hours so you can run it through several cycles.
Mine got bend only from upper notes what should I do?
You probably have a couple of high frets past the 12th. You will need a fret rocker to check each one and you’ll have to file and re-crown the offending article.
Might sound like a stupid question... but why would you want to try and guess the tension?... Can't you just tune them all up to an A 440 (or lower) for example ?
Ha ok lol, i've just realized why while I was typing this question, this is in the case where you don't know the string gauge of each string i'm guessing ? But I guess if you use all 42 for example you just tune them to the same pitch...
Anyways good idea the heat belt, coz you can't find those specialized fretboard heaters anymore (well not in my country anyways). I've had an SMO fat that doesn't have enough relief (I think it's because the maple is so hard) and I was trying to find a heat solution, this sounds good and not expensive.
Glad you liked it. I’ve checked with the owner and it is still holding proper relief. Let me know if it works for you. Cheers.
How many hours did you heat the neck? Thanks!
I left the heat on in 2 hour intervals for 3 days. May have been overkill, but since I couldn’t keep it running constantly I felt the more the better. How much relief are you looking to gain?
@@s.h.guitarworks3309 it's a similar situation as your video. With the truss rod completely loose and strung with 11's it's barely enough relief. I would like to use 10's and be able to engage the truss rod so it won't rattle.
12hrs x 3days=36 hrs total sound right?
I have one like that. Loose rod but still not enough relief. I'd like to dress the frets, trouble is, I'm scared to straighten the neck in case it doesn't slacken off again! 😂
String tension will add the relief needed; that is how single-action truss rods work. String tension will add too much relief. I have worked on and built guitars for decades, and the goal, without strings, is a neck as flat as Florida (the most flat state in the union). When leveling the frets, a straight neck is correct; use a notched straight edge.
I'm confused on the direction to adjust the truss. If I am on low E side of guitar, turning wrench towards high E side loosens the truss?
Righty tighty, lefty loosey
Aren't strings guaged to hold equal tension across the board? Why do you think smaller strings hold less tension?
It's the player who sets the tension, not the string guage.
The amount of tension required to bend the neck snaps the thinner strings. You are probably cranking them 3 notes higher depending on how much relief you need to add.
i am more surprised to hear you guys throw your guitar like i have got a guitar which is like the string is way up towards the sky and he neck is like way down on the earth its like heaven and earth but still it works so no being choosey
don't do this on laminated necks please .be so very cautious..
Why? Is there a significant danger of delamination? I'm finishing building a Firebird-style neck-through with a 9-ply laminate, and have to correct the backbow before I can level the frets. This seems a reasonable approach.
too much waffle, could have done this in 2 mins!
You’re right, if you are an intermediate level or higher tech. Big world out there...
Could have but did you?
Has it been 9 minutes and 37 seconds already? Cause it felt like about a fucking hour. I could have went, had the neck adjusted, picked up lunch, came home And this video would still be going
Thanks for taking even more of your time to write that.
@@s.h.guitarworks3309 I'll take even more time to leave a comment on your comment! I'll keep this going for the next 40 years. Also, I got the neck fixed.
@@Charlie_Chicago You must be fun at parties. Please don't breed.