Hey, I really want to thank you for this video. I did it exactly as you suggested, except I didn't even bother removing the neck from the guitar. I fixed a used Strat that I bought that had a warped neck and now it's absolutely straight and plays great. Thanks again!
Nice idea for heating! To the comment below about heating and re-fretting: You left out a key detail. He can try "compression" fretting the neck as well before tossing neck. Of course with the Squire, probably get one cheap, but if it's something custom and not available, could definitely try compression fretting in conjunction with heating as well and much more percentage of success in keeping neck from reverting back to previous bent position. This method is used on guitar necks all the time. Harpeth Guitar Restroration site has a great vid on compression fretting on a classical guitar and Dan Erlewine"s fret book has an example of using heat in conjunction with compression fretting. I'm going to try this on a custom fretless bass tomorrow and see what happens. I usually use a heat lamp. Interesting to compare.
A big thank you for this post. I bought a used Strat AVRI from 2009. When I wanted to adjust the neck curvature, I reached its limit with the truss rod. Even by adding spacers, the curvature could not be adjusted sufficiently. The local luthier confirmed that the neck was severely concave. So get to work. First pass in a towel, second pass wrapped in aluminum foil. First 3 and then 4 hours, then let it cool overnight. Hurray, the neck is straight again. Neck is a lacquer nitro maple one. No issues, so far
Thanks! I built a diy vise system out of poplar, and then used your described method on my set necked Hagstrom Ultra Swede. Note I only did this AFTER a reputable guitar tech told me he “wouldn’t touch it.” After two heat treatments and cooling over a 4 hour period, I was able to change a banana forward bow to a slight back bow (no tension) and perfect slight relief at 7/8 fret !! My truss Rod that was maxed out can now be set at just a slight bit of tension. My one new process improvement suggestion is rather than wrapping with a towel is to wrap the sock sausage and neck in cooking aluminum foil. Again many 🙏!!
Thanks. This worked fine for my 1982 ESP/Navigator Jazz Bass. It needed several attemps, though. I managed to bring down relief from 0.7mm (.027") to 0.35mm (.014").
I used a similar method on my bass neck. Clamped with a slight back bow, I put it in the trunk of my car on a hot day. I also put a big pot of water in the trunk. I left it there for several hours and it worked!
Great idea and excellent how-to video. Going to give this a try on a Yami acoustic with a dead flat neck while under tension w/ a fully loosened truss rod nut!
Ya know, I looked at your photo, saw the cloth and my problems are solved! *An electric heating pad wrapped around the neck! lmao!* I saw a way to clamp the body and use strings from the headstock down to the bench to get your angle and rid of twists, but I was always pursuing block based DIY heat press builds. *THANKS A MILLION DUDE!* I play so much, I twist necks to the left from my hand curling up around it. I have some really expensive guitars in dire need for years including an 8 string neck through Agile I paid nearly a grand for.
Thanks for the video. I used this method to fix a guitar neck. Worked perfectly first time. I subscribed to your channel. You did a great job explaining everything.
Fantastic video. For those without a dedicated bench, I simply use a 2x4. Works great. Also, in the UK we heat our homes with radiators. I leave the clamped 2x4 neck on a radiator for a few weeks and it's a bit more of a 'gradual' process. I kind of like your approach though.
I've been using this rice sock method for years. For aching sore muscles and I must say it really works out all my kinks. No need to buy a heating pad etc etc. Just sharing.😊
Many people say the neck must be steam heated, so I understand there should be some humidity. Should I try your method with rice that had had been soaked before this process? Thanks for any advice!
I’ve done this with a neck heater that I got from LMI a couple of decades ago. In my experience tho, it doesn’t last. Once wood has been “bent”, it likes to go back to where it was being exposed to the same situation. The only permanent fix is to pull the frets, straighten out the fingerboard, and then re-fret.
@@ManotickGuitarTech: That means 25% of your work is being redone, by you or someone else. Not a good rate. I hope you warn your customers, they may be paying for nothing, before proceeding.
I’m having same issues on a charvel mij so cal. All one price neck maple fretboard. Truss is maxed. It’s an unfinished nexk from what I can tell. Gonna try your guide to correct it
I would put a tea towel (something thin) on the neck then apply the heat sock - not sure how a maple board with finish will react. I have only done this on natural fretboards like rosewood or pau ferro, ebony...
This is great, thank you. I see in a couple of responses to comments you’ve cautioned against this technique on finished maple necks-is that because the hot physical contact might mar the finish? Or is there another reason? Would a heat lamp or even just a regular incandescent bulb solve that problem? I have a maple tele neck that gets backbowed in the summer, and I’d like to try fixing it. (Not a two-way truss rod.) Thanks!
Nice video, I already have a sock filled with rice I heat up to place over my neck when it hurts :p now it ahs a second use. Did the neck hold the shape?
Great video! I came across this when researching how to do some heat treatment to a bowed neck. I just bought a Stratocaster and the neck has a little bit of "natural relief", so to speak, I can get the neck mostly straight up to the 7th fret, after than I get a bit of a depression that goes all the way down to the last couple of frets. Would this method be safe to use on a finished neck or should I take other precautions?? It's maple (neck and fingerboard), finish appears to be poly (it's a 2014 MIM Strat).
This is NICE !!! and logical !!! and my last resort..... so it is good anyways 🙂 Got stuck with a 50's archtop that was arched, no truss rod, or access..... So right now she is under the "beans".... Could not remove the glued neck, so I constructed a custom press .... Wait and see in a few hours, gave her a slight backbend since no truss rodd to work with afterwards. Hope it does the trick !
And... WOILAH ! It appears do have done the trick 🙂 Minimal backbend, and with .13 strings she is just (arched) right ! What I did is build a custom press (glued neck) clamped foot, with a v-shaped block with leather inbetween at the lowest point and squeezed the headstock clamp until backbend on the (selfmade) ruler. Heated the rice sock 3 sessions with 4 hours in between ( microwave is 700W - 3 min, 3 min, 5 min) and covered with a towel. Total time including final cooling and glue able to dry was 24 hours. Rings like a bell ! Next up will be refretting and placing a Johnny Smith neck mounted pick-up with V&T ..... and I am afraid she needs to be refretted (will be a first for me and your next youtube I will look for THANKS !
@@ManotickGuitarTech had some tonight and I may have to do this rice trick on a replacement neck. I just finished a bass build. I will let things settle. If things don’t get better then rice it is......
Love this video and I'm planning on applying this technique to my early 90's '57 Strat reissue, which had developed a rather serious upbow in its maple neck over years of storage. Tightening the truss rod has helped but not quite enough. I'm just curious why you didn't apply the clamp to the first fret at the nut instead of the headstock. In your experience, is there any appreciable risk in bending downward on the headstock? Overall, the neck appeared to flex rather easily with the tension off the truss rod. Thank you.
Thank you. Yes I have happily subscribed to your channel. I appreciate your thorough systematic approach and calm delivery to problem solving. You're a teacher at heart, with none of the sarcasm found on other similar channels. Very satisfying. 🙂
Got it, thanks for the reply! Any suggestions on how to go about straightening the maple finished neck of a Strat without heat then, possibly? Would it help to back off the truss rod, clamp the neck into a desired (flatter) position and then tighten the truss rod again to see if it possibly holds? Just trying to think of the options. Thanks, love your videos!
Sure, just using mechanical force could help- I would clamp the neck in a significant back bow then tighten the truss rod and leave it like that for a few days. Wood has a memory so no guarantee this would work... you might have to do it a few times.
There is such an easier way to do this without heat....loosen the truss rod, have a friend push down on the headstock, tighten the truss rod....BAM! Worked for me and my bass neck was really bent, too.
I recently got a 75 gibson ripper. It was in a case and the screw in the compartment was digging into the neck around the 7th frett and when I get playable action, it buzzes around the 7th frett. I'm going to try this method and see 👀 what happens....
I used your method, and it worked. In fact it worked too well! Now with no tension on the truss rod, and the string tensioned above standard, I still have back bow. That sucks worse than the original problem!
You mentioned you ‘didn’t want to back the nut out of the hole’, suggesting that this bass doesn’t have a two-way truss rod? So IF it doesn’t, take it out, lubricate the threads, add a washer or two and see if the extra thread purchase allows the neck to then be correctly adjusted.
You nailed it Rick. First thing you do if a truss rod nut won't go any tighter is take it out, lube the threads and the bearing surface. 9 times out of 10 you'll end up being able to straighten the neck and then some. Of course this only works on single action rods. What'd ya do with the rice when you were done? I have a wicked biryani recipe.
@@brianmascarin3875 I have added washers on the past with varying degrees of success. I really just wanted to test out this idea to see if it would work.
Thanks, this worked like a charm. Can the same technique be applied but ONLY at the heel area? I have some ski jump that I'd like to reverse without re-fretting and sanding. Because of the thickness of the heel I'm not sure how much it will flex there but the plan would be to clamp and heat between frets 12-22.
Dan, I am glad this technique worked out for you. I havent tried the heel specifically but it should work with 2 or 3 applications due to the thickness. Let me know how it goes.
@@ManotickGuitarTech Will do! It's currently clamped and under heat. It's such a short run and a thick piece of lumber, but hopefully with time it will level out. If not then plan B is a possible partial re-fret or I can see if G&L (30 minutes away) will make me one. This is a 1982 El Toro. Pretty killer sounding pickups. Thanks again.
Hi, thanks for the technique, I’m currently using it on my Steve Harris pbass that came in brand new with a huge forward bow. I’ve seen several luthiers and they can’t do anything about it, they don’t even know the clamping method when I ask about it… my question is: how many times would you do this technique? So far I’ve managed to have a nice straight neck (back bow disappears after few hours) but the forward bow comes back as soon as I put the strings on (bow is smaller than before though).
Sometimes you have to repeat the process multiple times- I had to do it as many as 6 times on one neck. Once you have heated it up and let it cool down completely, tighten the truss rod and let it sit for a day, then repeat as necessary.
Thanks for the reply, thank ne more question: should I leave the rod tightened before each round, or should I loosen it before clamping again? I think I’m in for a few rounds of this game…
I have a flying V on my bench now I might try this since it's a set neck. I put a bolt on neck in my oven clamped like this one time and fixed an excessive relief issue. I have a neck\body jig can use to secure the neck and use the neck jig to back bow counter the relief. Even heating is the trick. I thought about a long infrared heat lamp too. I saw another youtuber used a heat lamp. I'm contemplating heat tape too, depending on cost. Maybe I'll make a demo to help others. Anyone know if they have a luthier tool co-op share/tool rental business?
At what settings do I heat the rice. I have a 900W oven. Also, may I assume the sock is to be all cotton... anyway, if I can't talk my local luthier into it I'm gonna try this on a 2008 Samick Malibu that plays like a dream up to about the ninth fret.
I ended up putting the rice in a double layer of 4" stockinette, a coarse jersey tubing used under fracture casts. Also great for hanging salami. My microwave is only 900W and the heat tolerance of the stockinette was unknown, so I went with 90% power, 4 minutes. Barely too hot to handle, which in food safety means 165º. I just carried it out on the platter and placed it by the ends. As this was for a urethaned maple fretboard, I took the extra precaution of putting a 4x18 strip of "ShamWow" over the wood. @@ManotickGuitarTech
Manotick StringWorks, great job getting the neck adjust and that was a brilliant heating techniques. I think I’m going to borrow that from you! Thanks for the video. How’s the neck holding up now?
It has been a few months now and the neck is holding up great according to my son. I dont reccomend using this technique on a fretboard with a finish(like mae with lacquer) but it works well with natural fretboards. Good luck and let me know if it works for you
@@ManotickGuitarTech , thank you for the reply and the information. I'm planning to try this out on a very cheap bass at first and see how it goes. Glad to hear your son's bass is still playing well.
@@ManotickGuitarTech I have used an iron before for heat and it sometimes made the frets sharp. So now I put the iron on the back of a guitar neck on a metal ruler for heat and clamp it after. A guitar repair book has using an alcohol lamp for heat but I don't know how to do that.
Thanks for the video! Feels like a silly question but is the rice dry or did you boil it before then microwave it? Feels like it would take a long time to heat dry rice :)
Great Idea, but my problem is an old D/nt, No Tr/rd, just a strip of Hd/wd underneath the fretboard visible from the S/ hole, & the whole neck has quite a ski/ ramp at the H/Stk end, probably been gradually getting worse over the years, the owner lost interest, 'n' hung it on a hook somewhere in his shed,gradually getting worse till said to 'can you do anything with this,or it's off to the dump, so with braces 'n' ideas from Gtr/ Buldrs on U/T I'm Slowly getting somewhere, its playing up to the 8th fret but I'd like to hit 12 by reducing S/Rp
Ive always thought that once a piece of treated/dried wood has been cut/shaped etc. It woild always conform to its own natural/manufactured "shape" ive just had that idea supported.
Great idea! I have an old 60s Japanese guitar with a “steel reinforced neck” but no adjustable truss rod with a pretty deep bow. I’m wondering if this technique could work on a guitar without an adjustable truss rod?
It would be... you could try loosening the TR, then bending the neck into a slight back bow, then tighten the TR tight... you might not need heat. Just do it gently LOL
Wouldn't applying the heat to the fretboard side risk softening the glue that holds the fretboard to the neck? I'd like to see a method that employs applying heat to the back of thee neck where the truss rod lies.
I am curious if the neck held it's position after some time spent playing it? I was recently gifted a 1959 strat, that was scorched in a fire in the '70's, then sat unplayed, with strings on it, since then. It has a very bad up bow, but does not seem warped. The truss rod would not go far enough to straighten it, then it came free from the anchor nut, as I backed it off. Luckily, after re-threading the end of the truss rod, it went back into the anchor nut, prior to which I applied red loctite, so it would remain. Now I am going to attempt your heated sock technique, but I am waiting on a replacement adjusting nut from Stewmac, as I needed the longer one they sell, as I had to cut a small bit off the adjusting end of the truss rod. I used a forstner bit to deepen the wood shoulder inside the channel of the neck and will use a washer between the nut and the wood, to get the proper amount of bite and spacing for the adjusting nut. I am very interested in whether or not your technique will work for me. Well done, and thank you for this video.
Well, it has been over 2 months and the neck is still holding it's shape well and my son says it plays great. I don't recommend this method if the fingerboard has a finish on it eg. maple with lacquer - only on natural wood boards like rosewood, pauferro, etc.. You may have to do it 2-3 times tightening the truss rod as you go... let me know how it works out for you! Please subscribe if you have not already -thanks.
@@ManotickGuitarTech Glad your son's bass is still holding it's straightness and that it plays great.Thanks for the tip about the finish. The old strat in question has no finish left on it, and has a brazilian rosewood fretboard. Thanks for the reply.
@@ManotickGuitarTech Thanks again, your video really helped me out, and my 1959 Stratocaster plays like a dream, with the neck good and straight. I ended up using one of those heatable neck warmers, very similar to the stuffed sock you made, and it worked like a charm. I did have to apply it in a few sessions, but I wanted to do it slow and easy. The neck is holding well. I don't want to hijack your post here, by attaching a video, but if you are interested in seeing the strat, and hearing it, I did make a video of some sound samples available on my page. A huge thanks to you! Yours was by far the most helpful of any of the videos I looked at that covered this approach to a bowed neck. This strat is happily rocking, after over 50 years of silence, man it sounds, and plays good!
Can a prior owner's setup preferences cause a bow? I have a nice Tele, bought remote, that shipped to me with 13-56 strings and saddles jacked up--WAAAAY up. I had to replace two tuners for the bass strings. I undid all that and use 9-46 gauge. I cannot get the action as slinky as my other Strats and Teles. I'm wondering if the frets have squished up some or there's a set up-bow.
13-56's? That's crazy, really... these guitars are not meant for that gauge of string. 9's or 10's only unless you want to be adjusting your guitar all the time and risk permanent damage
@@ManotickGuitarTech The tension was so high the 6th and 5th tuners were partly seized--probably bent cogs. One saddle screw was seized too. My guess is the prior owner was using it as slide setup. Had pickups wired out of phase too. Beautiful ash Tele, premium model, and it gets treated like a Greco or Tokai.
Maybe- you could try clamping it with more pressure on the bass side... that would be up to you to decide. I have not fixed a twist before. Thanks for watching and I hope you have subscribed to my channel?
I have a twist too, which I intend to correct by shimming one or both of the clamps with a felt bass pick; tapered end on the side that needs least overall compensation.
Hello, I have a classical guitar thats a bit bent. I think the previuos owner put steal strings on it and this happened. The guitar does not have a truss rod. Whats your recomendation? thanks a lot!
Daniel, you could try the technique in the video-it will work for acoustic guitars as well. It will probably take 3 or 4 treatments because you shouldn't put too much pressure on the neck at one time. Take it slow and easy.
Nicely done. Do you think this would work on an acoustic 12-string? I have too much relief but a neck reset would not be needed. Just need to get some relief out. Recommended is .08 and I am getting .15 or so.
Hi, Brian. I don't see any reason that it would not work on a 12 string as well. I don't recommend doing this with a fretboard that has a finish on it eg. Maple with lacquer; only natural boards like rosewood, pau ferro, etc. I find you need 2-3 applications to get good results. Let me know how it goes! Please remember to subscribe if you haven't already. Thanks, again.
@@ManotickGuitarTech Thanks. I will give it a try. I have a Sunbeam heating pad that gets to about 115° so I might try that before using rice. The worst it can do is... nothing. LOL The guitar is a Martin D12-28. Have to do something the get the neck as straight as possible. Thanks again.
Well, it appears to have worked. I went from .11 at the 12th to .09 at the 12th. Plus, the intonation seems to be a lot closer than before. It is not perfect, but I believe you have solved my issue. The process I used was to use a 5# divers weight (lead beads in a soft case) on the heel block, the neck supported at the 7th fret, and a 5# divers weight on the headstock. I kept that there for a few days before applying the heat. I took the Sunbeam heat pad and put it on the neck from the neck heel to the nut. I didn't want to apply any heat to the body so I was careful about that. The temperature on the neck during the process was 145° +/- a few degrees. I heated for 1 hour, let cool for 1 hour, and repeated the process 4 times. I Started at noon and finished at 7pm. Now, will this last? I don't know. But regardless my '75 Martin D12-28 has life again. The intonation and tuning were so bad I had to tune to the 2nd or 3rd fret in order to play open chords. Yeah, it was a mess. Thank you for you video and the guidance during the video. Caveat: This might not work for everyone or anyone else. I got lucky. I did an unknown process for me on a guitar worth $2500 or so. But I was very lucky.
New update 12/4/2021 - After about a month, the neck returned to the previous condition where the neck relief was too much forward bow. Going to have it looked at by a luthier. Also I need to post a warning. Too much heat will cause the fretboard wood to shrink, depending on the wood being used. This will cause the fret ends to be exposed. As you run your hand along the neck you will feel the ends protruding out from the fretboard. This condition may return to normal after some time and the fretboard rehydrates.
@@ManotickGuitarTech That's awesome sir. Glad it work! I am in the process of doing it. I have a satin neck and neither the rice nor the torque affected the finish on the neck. I may have time to put the guitar back together tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Thanks again!
If you out a tea towel o e the fretboard and used the iron-maybe... you would have to do it for 30mins or more and really know what temp your iron is at. I Never tried that.
@@ManotickGuitarTech Thank you! I will try that out! It's a cheap electric Yamaha which because of that issue was stored up at the attic for at least 15 years. So nothing to lose, only to win.
It would be hard to control the heat and you would have to hold it over the neck for a quite a while... I would be concerned about damaging the finish on the neck.
Hi I have a set neck guitar and in loosened trussrod it has a backbow. I get most of the neck straight by counterclockwise TR adjustment but fret one and two are still on a backbow. Its n LP style guitar. Do you have a vid or a pointer on how deal with this situation? Cheers V
You can heat up the neck the same way I did in his video, but of course it will still be attached to the body. Take it slow and easy when applying the heat. Thanks for watching and I hope you have subbed to my channel?
What about a slighty twisted bass neck,, played fine but when changing strings and started setting it up, could not get E and A strings at correct string height and was to high, D and G were almost perfect, looked down neck from headstock and looks like around the 5th or 6th feet, bass side of bass is twisted up, It is hard to explain in words, but can a neck be un twisted?
Frank, thanks for watching the video. Unfortunately, twists are almost impossible to get out. You could try clamping the whole neck straight in a neck caul without truss rod tension first a few times and see if that helps (doing the heat process at the same time). Remember I dont reccomend this process on a fret board with a finish like maple.
@@frankperricone2065 I have only done this on rosewood fingerboards- there is always a risk that the finish on the neck might get damaged... no guarantees
@@ManotickGuitarTech --- I'd like to tell you something that you advised against... I have an old '74 bullet truss Stratocaster that has had the truss maxed out for years and a terrible dip-bow (convex) that you could drive a truck under (lol) and I put it down, not touching it again - until - I saw your video. The neck is a high gloss finished maple (which you advised NOT to apply your technique to), but I have several backup Strats and decided what the heck and I did it anyway --- it worked out great, man! It did not affect the finish on the fretboard at all, but what it did do is break the glue/finish at the FRET ENDS, causing a mild rise and some sharp fret burrs, which I had to lightly file off and redress and guessing I may have over-extended the back-bow and too much pressure at the clamps, not sure -- and it only did this to heated area which was from fret 4 - 11, nothing else was affected. It amazingly set up so well, I don't even need to tighten the truss anymore --- it's completely stress-free on the neck and I don't know if this is a good thing or not, but all I had to do is change the neck shim height and saddle height to suit my playing comfort. The tension from the strings I use (EB 8-38) give just the right amount of bow-stress that still allow for a great action -------- I can't thank you enough for the tips/video and yes, I have subscribed to you! Bravo Zulu, brother!
@@Jim5150jvc I would do two applications - check it after 4 hrs to see if it has straightened; add a little more clamp pressure to get a back bow, tighten the truss rod and heat again; then let cool for 24hrs clamped.
If your manotick stringworks why don't you just fix the damn truss rod you can just add a couple washers maybe or it's obviously not doing what it should
@@ManotickGuitarTech Sorry for the low effort question. My guitar's neck has a back-bow from the middle of the neck to where the neck joins the guitar's body. I've tried loosening the truss rod but that doesn't fix the problem - It adds a forward bow from fret 1 to fret 8 but not beyond that. This is a 3 month old Pacifica 012. I'm guessing the recent change in temperature here from hot to cold is the cause. Also, I used to line dry wet clothes in my room, this also may be the cause. Thanks for taking the time to look into my issue.
@@nikhilck629 did you check if you have a two-way truss rod? That would add mechanical force and get the relief you need. Keep turning counterclockwise(left loosey) to see if it starts to engage.
@@ManotickGuitarTech it's a pretty SEVERE relic but you mentioned getting the glue to slip and reset. Is it the rosewood stripe on the back in this case?
@@ManotickGuitarTech Please don't mistake my relentless inquisition for incredulity. I'm very curious about why this would work because I'm desperate. Lol. It's such a great guitar but the neck just bows over time without fail and the truss rod is very tight.
Can confirm, did this on my ibanez restoration. As long as you let it cool the glue should harden and it will keep it shape for a decent amount of time. Its much better then getting a new neck or a repair anyway.
this is a temporary fix, as the moisture level in the neck evens out over the next few weeks it will bend again....do not use this method. adding moisture to one side of wood makes it expand(bow) removing moisture will make it shrink(cup)....and, as I said, over time the wood will equalize and the bend will return.
That certainly can happen and every neck reacts differently. I have done at least a dozen necks this way in the last year and they have all remained adjustable and playable.
@@ManotickGuitarTech I'm sorry if I give your channel any kind of bad representation, but I'm pretty sure you know I am correct(I am assuming this so always room for error)...the only reason that this would continue to hold for years is if the moisture was introduced by the player(or dryness) maybe tilted up against a heater or stove...or near a window where it might get damp(more on one side than the other)....truss rods weren't even invented until they started mass producing guitars as a good way to keep necks straight in a mass produced(use all the crap wood too) manner, but wood is wood...IT WILL EQUALIZE over time based on it's environment.
@@dominicgangolff2138 I'm not trolling if that's what you mean...are you a wood worker or luthier? Because my points are well grounded in facts and experience.
Who said smth about adding moist, the sock looks dry to me. Personally I would leave the clamps there for some days, after removing the sock. Interesting topic! At least old classical gets way too high relief, also some new ones (Alhambra classicals = never straight necks, not even in the music stores). I will just throw out a theory: wood itself has a structural memory, when it comes back to the original shape, it will stay there (?). The clamps and heat just helps the wood to find back to its base. Or what? 🤔
Wow I would never put a hot Sox on my fretboard. You may screw up the fret board. If anything maby on the back of the neck. Don't believe everything you see on TH-cam.
I have a question for you . I have a classical guitar with a very bent neck. I also bought some very sturdy clamps to correct this. If you use a clamp to straighten the neck and leave it for a few days and then remove the clamp, it will return to its curved state. As if the bow is returning to its original state, it will be bent again. Even if you apply hot heat and work, the same result is obtained. So I'm at a loss and don't know what to do. What advice would you give me? This article uses Google Translator, so please understand if there are any unnatural points.
I clamped my classical (in fact two of them, that was bowed) together, face-to-face, made a backbow for 10 days. They both became pretty straight, and still are now after 2 months :)
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Hey, I really want to thank you for this video. I did it exactly as you suggested, except I didn't even bother removing the neck from the guitar. I fixed a used Strat that I bought that had a warped neck and now it's absolutely straight and plays great. Thanks again!
Nice idea for heating! To the comment below about heating and re-fretting: You left out a key detail. He can try "compression" fretting the neck as well before tossing neck. Of course with the Squire, probably get one cheap, but if it's something custom and not available, could definitely try compression fretting in conjunction with heating as well and much more percentage of success in keeping neck from reverting back to previous bent position. This method is used on guitar necks all the time. Harpeth Guitar Restroration site has a great vid on compression fretting on a classical guitar and Dan Erlewine"s fret book has an example of using heat in conjunction with compression fretting. I'm going to try this on a custom fretless bass tomorrow and see what happens. I usually use a heat lamp. Interesting to compare.
A big thank you for this post.
I bought a used Strat AVRI from 2009. When I wanted to adjust the neck curvature, I reached its limit with the truss rod. Even by adding spacers, the curvature could not be adjusted sufficiently.
The local luthier confirmed that the neck was severely concave.
So get to work. First pass in a towel, second pass wrapped in aluminum foil. First 3 and then 4 hours, then let it cool overnight.
Hurray, the neck is straight again.
Neck is a lacquer nitro maple one. No issues, so far
@@calabash-um9mv good work!
Thanks! I built a diy vise system out of poplar, and then used your described method on my set necked Hagstrom Ultra Swede. Note I only did this AFTER a reputable guitar tech told me he “wouldn’t touch it.” After two heat treatments and cooling over a 4 hour period, I was able to change a banana forward bow to a slight back bow (no tension) and perfect slight relief at 7/8 fret !! My truss Rod that was maxed out can now be set at just a slight bit of tension.
My one new process improvement suggestion is rather than wrapping with a towel is to wrap the sock sausage and neck in cooking aluminum foil.
Again many 🙏!!
Would like to see a pic of your rig you used
@@ManotickGuitarTech not sure how but would be glad to send pics
@@perrymann6807 send to my email in the description
Thanks. This worked fine for my 1982 ESP/Navigator Jazz Bass. It needed several attemps, though. I managed to bring down relief from 0.7mm (.027") to 0.35mm (.014").
It lasted just a few hours... It seems, I need to give more heat to the neck.
Kudos. Just found U. Just subscribed. This has got be be the best bass ( instrument ) educational repair channels on the net..... Thx.
Jeez... thanks!
I used a similar method on my bass neck. Clamped with a slight back bow, I put it in the trunk of my car on a hot day. I also put a big pot of water in the trunk. I left it there for several hours and it worked!
Very cool!
@@ManotickGuitarTech Thanks. I know leaving a guitar in a hot car can warp a neck so why not the reverse....
@@gvair I would worry more about the finish cracking
Great idea and excellent how-to video. Going to give this a try on a Yami acoustic with a dead flat neck while under tension w/ a fully loosened truss rod nut!
Let me know how it goes!
Great, I was having a reverse bow issue with a neck and this method with some microwavable heating pads did the trick
Thanks
I am glad it worked for you! I hope you have subbed to my channel as well?
The bag of rice is such a great idea.
Ya know, I looked at your photo, saw the cloth and my problems are solved!
*An electric heating pad wrapped around the neck! lmao!*
I saw a way to clamp the body and use strings from the headstock down to the bench to get your angle and rid of twists, but I was always pursuing block based DIY heat press builds.
*THANKS A MILLION DUDE!*
I play so much, I twist necks to the left from my hand curling up around it. I have some really expensive guitars in dire need for years including an 8 string neck through Agile I paid nearly a grand for.
Glad the video helped you out - don't forget that I would only do this on unfinished fingerboards... not maple. I hope you have subbed to my channel?
@@ManotickGuitarTech I did and fortunately none of the maple need it but literally a dozen rosewoods do.
@@jondeth298 maple is much stronger
Thanks for the video. I used this method to fix a guitar neck. Worked perfectly first time. I subscribed to your channel. You did a great job explaining everything.
Glad to hear it worked and thanks for the sub!
Fantastic video. For those without a dedicated bench, I simply use a 2x4. Works great. Also, in the UK we heat our homes with radiators. I leave the clamped 2x4 neck on a radiator for a few weeks and it's a bit more of a 'gradual' process. I kind of like your approach though.
I don't have radiators...wish I did!
This was helpful. I have a 1969 Ampeg Dan Armstrong Plexi Bass that I'm going to use this technique.
I've been using this rice sock method for years. For aching sore muscles and I must say it really works out all my kinks. No need to buy a heating pad etc etc. Just sharing.😊
Dual.purpose!
Many people say the neck must be steam heated, so I understand there should be some humidity. Should I try your method with rice that had had been soaked before this process? Thanks for any advice!
I have never used steam - it could damage the fingerboard or the finish on the neck. Dry heat works fine.
I’ve done this with a neck heater that I got from LMI a couple of decades ago.
In my experience tho, it doesn’t last.
Once wood has been “bent”, it likes to go back to where it was being exposed to the same situation.
The only permanent fix is to pull the frets, straighten out the fingerboard, and then re-fret.
I have had about a 75% success rate... some wood just won't straighten out.
@@ManotickGuitarTech: That means 25% of your work is being
redone, by you or someone else. Not a good rate.
I hope you warn your customers, they may be paying for nothing, before proceeding.
@@zapa1pnt I don't guarantee that the neck will stay straight, my customers understand that.
@@ManotickGuitarTech: Then your customers are stupid, for paying you to do it.
@@zapa1pnt 75% is pretty good if it's a last ditch effort..
It sure helps to have chipmunks helping you do your work! :-)
Everybody should have them
You can then re-purposed that rice sock as an effective neck warmer 👍🏼
LOL - i do use it for a warmer for my lower back when it is sore
And then eat the rice straight out of the sock.
I’m having same issues on a charvel mij so cal. All one price neck maple fretboard. Truss is maxed. It’s an unfinished nexk from what I can tell. Gonna try your guide to correct it
I would put a tea towel (something thin) on the neck then apply the heat sock - not sure how a maple board with finish will react. I have only done this on natural fretboards like rosewood or pau ferro, ebony...
This is great, thank you. I see in a couple of responses to comments you’ve cautioned against this technique on finished maple necks-is that because the hot physical contact might mar the finish? Or is there another reason? Would a heat lamp or even just a regular incandescent bulb solve that problem? I have a maple tele neck that gets backbowed in the summer, and I’d like to try fixing it. (Not a two-way truss rod.) Thanks!
I would be careful applying too much heat on a finished fretboard
Nice video, I already have a sock filled with rice I heat up to place over my neck when it hurts :p now it ahs a second use. Did the neck hold the shape?
I use the sock for my back! The neck is still good...
@@ManotickGuitarTech I have mine on the bench right now, it seems I was able to straighten it! Thanks for the video
@@GerryBlue sometimes it's good to do it a couple or three times
@@ManotickGuitarTech Thanks' I'll keep that in mind!
Great video! I came across this when researching how to do some heat treatment to a bowed neck. I just bought a Stratocaster and the neck has a little bit of "natural relief", so to speak, I can get the neck mostly straight up to the 7th fret, after than I get a bit of a depression that goes all the way down to the last couple of frets. Would this method be safe to use on a finished neck or should I take other precautions?? It's maple (neck and fingerboard), finish appears to be poly (it's a 2014 MIM Strat).
@@JuanJaim I have only done it on a natural fretboard without finish, but in the comments some people have done it with a poly fretboard with success
This is NICE !!! and logical !!! and my last resort..... so it is good anyways 🙂
Got stuck with a 50's archtop that was arched, no truss rod, or access..... So right now she is under the "beans".... Could not remove the glued neck, so I constructed a custom press .... Wait and see in a few hours, gave her a slight backbend since no truss rodd to work with afterwards. Hope it does the trick !
Let me know how it turns out
And... WOILAH ! It appears do have done the trick 🙂 Minimal backbend, and with .13 strings she is just (arched) right ! What I did is build a custom press (glued neck) clamped foot, with a v-shaped block with leather inbetween at the lowest point and squeezed the headstock clamp until backbend on the (selfmade) ruler. Heated the rice sock 3 sessions with 4 hours in between ( microwave is 700W - 3 min, 3 min, 5 min) and covered with a towel. Total time including final cooling and glue able to dry was 24 hours. Rings like a bell ! Next up will be refretting and placing a Johnny Smith neck mounted pick-up with V&T ..... and I am afraid she needs to be refretted (will be a first for me and your next youtube I will look for
THANKS !
@@gijsvlas9120 that is great!
Guitar and bass neck fixer, sore muscle fixer, and a food. Talk about useful.
Rice is universal 😋
@@ManotickGuitarTech had some tonight and I may have to do this rice trick on a replacement neck. I just finished a bass build. I will let things settle. If things don’t get better then rice it is......
Love this video and I'm planning on applying this technique to my early 90's '57 Strat reissue, which had developed a rather serious upbow in its maple neck over years of storage. Tightening the truss rod has helped but not quite enough. I'm just curious why you didn't apply the clamp to the first fret at the nut instead of the headstock. In your experience, is there any appreciable risk in bending downward on the headstock? Overall, the neck appeared to flex rather easily with the tension off the truss rod. Thank you.
You get more torque clamping on the headstock- just go easy and steady pressure. I hope you have subscribed to my channel too?
Thank you. Yes I have happily subscribed to your channel. I appreciate your thorough systematic approach and calm delivery to problem solving. You're a teacher at heart, with none of the sarcasm found on other similar channels. Very satisfying. 🙂
@@ManotickGuitarTech what about a weaker joint (gibson)?
@@timothysmith294 I would clamp adjust ahead of the nut on the fingerboard- Gibson necks are weak
@@ManotickGuitarTech right that was my plan... its old too
Got it, thanks for the reply! Any suggestions on how to go about straightening the maple finished neck of a Strat without heat then, possibly? Would it help to back off the truss rod, clamp the neck into a desired (flatter) position and then tighten the truss rod again to see if it possibly holds? Just trying to think of the options. Thanks, love your videos!
Sure, just using mechanical force could help- I would clamp the neck in a significant back bow then tighten the truss rod and leave it like that for a few days. Wood has a memory so no guarantee this would work... you might have to do it a few times.
There is such an easier way to do this without heat....loosen the truss rod, have a friend push down on the headstock, tighten the truss rod....BAM! Worked for me and my bass neck was really bent, too.
I recently got a 75 gibson ripper. It was in a case and the screw in the compartment was digging into the neck around the 7th frett and when I get playable action, it buzzes around the 7th frett. I'm going to try this method and see 👀 what happens....
i have the same problem,what happened, could you fixed it?
I used your method, and it worked. In fact it worked too well! Now with no tension on the truss rod, and the string tensioned above standard, I still have back bow. That sucks worse than the original problem!
Very good video. I just used the same way to my guitar !
Glad it has worked for you...I hope you have subscribed to my channel? Thanks.
You mentioned you ‘didn’t want to back the nut out of the hole’, suggesting that this bass doesn’t have a two-way truss rod? So IF it doesn’t, take it out, lubricate the threads, add a washer or two and see if the extra thread purchase allows the neck to then be correctly adjusted.
That is a good suggestion- I will try that next opportunity I have. There was not much thread on the truss rod end.
You nailed it Rick. First thing you do if a truss rod nut won't go any tighter is take it out, lube the threads and the bearing surface. 9 times out of 10 you'll end up being able to straighten the neck and then some. Of course this only works on single action rods.
What'd ya do with the rice when you were done? I have a wicked biryani recipe.
@@brianmascarin3875 sock rice doesn't taste good😁
@@brianmascarin3875 I have added washers on the past with varying degrees of success. I really just wanted to test out this idea to see if it would work.
Thanks, this worked like a charm. Can the same technique be applied but ONLY at the heel area? I have some ski jump that I'd like to reverse without re-fretting and sanding. Because of the thickness of the heel I'm not sure how much it will flex there but the plan would be to clamp and heat between frets 12-22.
Dan, I am glad this technique worked out for you. I havent tried the heel specifically but it should work with 2 or 3 applications due to the thickness. Let me know how it goes.
@@ManotickGuitarTech Will do! It's currently clamped and under heat. It's such a short run and a thick piece of lumber, but hopefully with time it will level out. If not then plan B is a possible partial re-fret or I can see if G&L (30 minutes away) will make me one. This is a 1982 El Toro. Pretty killer sounding pickups. Thanks again.
@@DanBerens2112 Did you succeed? It would be a major breakthrough if it works with a ski jump!
Hi, thanks for the technique, I’m currently using it on my Steve Harris pbass that came in brand new with a huge forward bow. I’ve seen several luthiers and they can’t do anything about it, they don’t even know the clamping method when I ask about it… my question is: how many times would you do this technique? So far I’ve managed to have a nice straight neck (back bow disappears after few hours) but the forward bow comes back as soon as I put the strings on (bow is smaller than before though).
Sometimes you have to repeat the process multiple times- I had to do it as many as 6 times on one neck. Once you have heated it up and let it cool down completely, tighten the truss rod and let it sit for a day, then repeat as necessary.
Thanks for the reply, thank ne more question: should I leave the rod tightened before each round, or should I loosen it before clamping again? I think I’m in for a few rounds of this game…
@@Mrpatlebrun Loosen each time, heat and bend, clamp and then tighten the truss rod
I have a flying V on my bench now I might try this since it's a set neck. I put a bolt on neck in my oven clamped like this one time and fixed an excessive relief issue. I have a neck\body jig can use to secure the neck and use the neck jig to back bow counter the relief. Even heating is the trick. I thought about a long infrared heat lamp too. I saw another youtuber used a heat lamp. I'm contemplating heat tape too, depending on cost. Maybe I'll make a demo to help others. Anyone know if they have a luthier tool co-op share/tool rental business?
At what settings do I heat the rice. I have a 900W oven. Also, may I assume the sock is to be all cotton... anyway, if I can't talk my local luthier into it I'm gonna try this on a 2008 Samick Malibu that plays like a dream up to about the ninth fret.
Don't know what setting on your microwave but you should heat it up to about 175-200f. All cotton sock is preferable
I ended up putting the rice in a double layer of 4" stockinette, a coarse jersey tubing used under fracture casts. Also great for hanging salami.
My microwave is only 900W and the heat tolerance of the stockinette was unknown, so I went with 90% power, 4 minutes. Barely too hot to handle, which in food safety means 165º. I just carried it out on the platter and placed it by the ends.
As this was for a urethaned maple fretboard, I took the extra precaution of putting a 4x18 strip of "ShamWow" over the wood.
@@ManotickGuitarTech
I might have clamped it at the first fret, rather than the headstock. But if it worked👍
Manotick StringWorks, great job getting the neck adjust and that was a brilliant heating techniques. I think I’m going to borrow that from you! Thanks for the video. How’s the neck holding up now?
It has been a few months now and the neck is holding up great according to my son. I dont reccomend using this technique on a fretboard with a finish(like mae with lacquer) but it works well with natural fretboards. Good luck and let me know if it works for you
Thanks for watching and pleas subscribe I f you havent already.
@@ManotickGuitarTech , thank you for the reply and the information. I'm planning to try this out on a very cheap bass at first and see how it goes. Glad to hear your son's bass is still playing well.
@@ManotickGuitarTech , you're welcome. I just subscribed now. I look forward to watching other videos on your channel.
Will this work on an acoustic guitar or classical guitar? Why a sock and rice for heat? I am afraid heat will make the frets sharp.
Heat won't make the frets sharp...not sure what you asking there? I used rice in a sock to show that you don't need any fancy or specialty devices.
@@ManotickGuitarTech I have used an iron before for heat and it sometimes made the frets sharp. So now I put the iron on the back of a guitar neck on a metal ruler for heat and clamp it after. A guitar repair book has using an alcohol lamp for heat but I don't know how to do that.
Thanks for the video! Feels like a silly question but is the rice dry or did you boil it before then microwave it? Feels like it would take a long time to heat dry rice :)
lol - no it is dry! It heats up very quickly - you can also use dry beans instead.
Dry rice bags are commonly used in place of hot water bottles now. Just microwave them and you're good.
Great Idea, but my problem is an old D/nt, No Tr/rd, just a strip of Hd/wd underneath the fretboard visible from the S/ hole, & the whole neck has quite a ski/ ramp at the H/Stk end, probably been gradually getting worse over the years, the owner lost interest, 'n' hung it on a hook somewhere in his shed,gradually getting worse till said to 'can you do anything with this,or it's off to the dump, so with braces 'n' ideas from Gtr/ Buldrs on U/T I'm Slowly getting somewhere, its playing up to the 8th fret but I'd like to hit 12 by reducing S/Rp
can't read this comment... full of abbreviations??
Ive always thought that once a piece of treated/dried wood has been cut/shaped etc. It woild always conform to its own natural/manufactured "shape" ive just had that idea supported.
Great idea! I have an old 60s Japanese guitar with a “steel reinforced neck” but no adjustable truss rod with a pretty deep bow. I’m wondering if this technique could work on a guitar without an adjustable truss rod?
I would give it a try since it seems like the steel reinforcement is not doing much anyway
I'm in the same boat. Tiesco?
Me too man! that's why I am here! Found it and cleaned it up and polished the frets but I was trying to figure out the neck situation!
So a 20 yo bass with a tight T/R maybe might be candidate?
It would be... you could try loosening the TR, then bending the neck into a slight back bow, then tighten the TR tight... you might not need heat. Just do it gently LOL
Hi,
What brand of clamps are you using? I got a pair but they really aren't user friendly. Thanks in advance,
For small jobs, infuse generic lamps that are not very expensive. For woodworking, I use Bessey clamps.
I used a heating pad but the process was the same. Thanks
Nice - good idea!
@@ManotickGuitarTech I'm actually using the heating pad on another bass this morning, opposite bow, this one has too much forward bow.
Wouldn't applying the heat to the fretboard side risk softening the glue that holds the fretboard to the neck? I'd like to see a method that employs applying heat to the back of thee neck where the truss rod lies.
Applying heat to the back of the neck will certainly cause problem with the finish. It is not hot enough to release the glue.
Hows the neck today? Still the same relief? Or return to the overly bowed neck
Still the same- the heat treatment seems to have worked just fine. I hope you have subbed to my channel?
Exactly,
I am curious if the neck held it's position after some time spent playing it? I was recently gifted a 1959 strat, that was scorched in a fire in the '70's, then sat unplayed, with strings on it, since then. It has a very bad up bow, but does not seem warped. The truss rod would not go far enough to straighten it, then it came free from the anchor nut, as I backed it off. Luckily, after re-threading the end of the truss rod, it went back into the anchor nut, prior to which I applied red loctite, so it would remain. Now I am going to attempt your heated sock technique, but I am waiting on a replacement adjusting nut from Stewmac, as I needed the longer one they sell, as I had to cut a small bit off the adjusting end of the truss rod. I used a forstner bit to deepen the wood shoulder inside the channel of the neck and will use a washer between the nut and the wood, to get the proper amount of bite and spacing for the adjusting nut. I am very interested in whether or not your technique will work for me. Well done, and thank you for this video.
Well, it has been over 2 months and the neck is still holding it's shape well and my son says it plays great. I don't recommend this method if the fingerboard has a finish on it eg. maple with lacquer - only on natural wood boards like rosewood, pauferro, etc.. You may have to do it 2-3 times tightening the truss rod as you go... let me know how it works out for you! Please subscribe if you have not already -thanks.
@@ManotickGuitarTech Glad your son's bass is still holding it's straightness and that it plays great.Thanks for the tip about the finish. The old strat in question has no finish left on it, and has a brazilian rosewood fretboard. Thanks for the reply.
@@ManotickGuitarTech Thanks again, your video really helped me out, and my 1959 Stratocaster plays like a dream, with the neck good and straight. I ended up using one of those heatable neck warmers, very similar to the stuffed sock you made, and it worked like a charm. I did have to apply it in a few sessions, but I wanted to do it slow and easy. The neck is holding well. I don't want to hijack your post here, by attaching a video, but if you are interested in seeing the strat, and hearing it, I did make a video of some sound samples available on my page. A huge thanks to you! Yours was by far the most helpful of any of the videos I looked at that covered this approach to a bowed neck. This strat is happily rocking, after over 50 years of silence, man it sounds, and plays good!
@@paintdrink that is awesome! I am glad it worked for you.
@@paintdrink That is great!
What did you put in the middle of the neck? A two by four? Did you cook the rice before putting it on the sock?
A wood support in the middle shaped to the neck; uncooked rice, only 😁
Can a prior owner's setup preferences cause a bow? I have a nice Tele, bought remote, that shipped to me with 13-56 strings and saddles jacked up--WAAAAY up. I had to replace two tuners for the bass strings. I undid all that and use 9-46 gauge. I cannot get the action as slinky as my other Strats and Teles. I'm wondering if the frets have squished up some or there's a set up-bow.
13-56's? That's crazy, really... these guitars are not meant for that gauge of string. 9's or 10's only unless you want to be adjusting your guitar all the time and risk permanent damage
@@ManotickGuitarTech The tension was so high the 6th and 5th tuners were partly seized--probably bent cogs. One saddle screw was seized too. My guess is the prior owner was using it as slide setup. Had pickups wired out of phase too. Beautiful ash Tele, premium model, and it gets treated like a Greco or Tokai.
You could try some heat treatment but the neck might be toast...
@@ManotickGuitarTech Have a Fender-auth'd tech who says the neck seems alright, so he's working on it now.
@@RideAcrossTheRiver I hope everything works out!
Well isn't there a risk that the glue under the frets gets loose if you heat them up?
@@GabrielSkolderblad it does soften a bit and then hardens again once you have bent the neck into position... that is the idea.
The heat doesn't soften the fretboard glue?
Just enough so the neck can bend then it sets again
I have a guitar with a twisted neck. Do you think this would work? Relief is much greater on the high e side of the neck.
Maybe- you could try clamping it with more pressure on the bass side... that would be up to you to decide. I have not fixed a twist before. Thanks for watching and I hope you have subscribed to my channel?
I have a twist too, which I intend to correct by shimming one or both of the clamps with a felt bass pick; tapered end on the side that needs least overall compensation.
Hello, I have a classical guitar thats a bit bent. I think the previuos owner put steal strings on it and this happened. The guitar does not have a truss rod. Whats your recomendation? thanks a lot!
Daniel, you could try the technique in the video-it will work for acoustic guitars as well. It will probably take 3 or 4 treatments because you shouldn't put too much pressure on the neck at one time. Take it slow and easy.
@@ManotickGuitarTech I will give it a try! Thanks a lot!
@@danypb01How did it go?
Nicely done. Do you think this would work on an acoustic 12-string? I have too much relief but a neck reset would not be needed. Just need to get some relief out. Recommended is .08 and I am getting .15 or so.
Hi, Brian. I don't see any reason that it would not work on a 12 string as well. I don't recommend doing this with a fretboard that has a finish on it eg. Maple with lacquer; only natural boards like rosewood, pau ferro, etc. I find you need 2-3 applications to get good results. Let me know how it goes! Please remember to subscribe if you haven't already.
Thanks, again.
@@ManotickGuitarTech Thanks. I will give it a try. I have a Sunbeam heating pad that gets to about 115° so I might try that before using rice. The worst it can do is... nothing. LOL The guitar is a Martin D12-28. Have to do something the get the neck as straight as possible. Thanks again.
Well, it appears to have worked. I went from .11 at the 12th to .09 at the 12th. Plus, the intonation seems to be a lot closer than before. It is not perfect, but I believe you have solved my issue.
The process I used was to use a 5# divers weight (lead beads in a soft case) on the heel block, the neck supported at the 7th fret, and a 5# divers weight on the headstock. I kept that there for a few days before applying the heat.
I took the Sunbeam heat pad and put it on the neck from the neck heel to the nut. I didn't want to apply any heat to the body so I was careful about that. The temperature on the neck during the process was 145° +/- a few degrees. I heated for 1 hour, let cool for 1 hour, and repeated the process 4 times. I Started at noon and finished at 7pm.
Now, will this last? I don't know. But regardless my '75 Martin D12-28 has life again. The intonation and tuning were so bad I had to tune to the 2nd or 3rd fret in order to play open chords. Yeah, it was a mess.
Thank you for you video and the guidance during the video.
Caveat: This might not work for everyone or anyone else. I got lucky. I did an unknown process for me on a guitar worth $2500 or so. But I was very lucky.
@@briandonaldson612stringgui8 I am glad it worked out for you! No guarantees that it will work for every guitar...
New update 12/4/2021 - After about a month, the neck returned to the previous condition where the neck relief was too much forward bow. Going to have it looked at by a luthier. Also I need to post a warning. Too much heat will cause the fretboard wood to shrink, depending on the wood being used. This will cause the fret ends to be exposed. As you run your hand along the neck you will feel the ends protruding out from the fretboard. This condition may return to normal after some time and the fretboard rehydrates.
Would wheat work as good as or better than rice? Wheat is used in heat bags
Give it a try and let me know!
Can i use something like a heat gun or a cloth iron?
Maybe an iron but put a cloth on the fretboard. The key is long slow heat... an iron might be too hot and quick.
Sir, it's been over a year now... did the fix hold up? Thanks for making the video, it is extremely helpful!
Hi, James. It's my sons bass and he plays it everyday... the neck hasn't moved!
@@ManotickGuitarTech That's awesome sir. Glad it work! I am in the process of doing it. I have a satin neck and neither the rice nor the torque affected the finish on the neck. I may have time to put the guitar back together tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Thanks again!
Hey,
I'm sorry if this is a stupid question. But do you use raw dry rice or cooked?
Lol- dry rice only! Cook it after for dinner , if you like.
@@ManotickGuitarTech Thanks man. I'm going to do this on a squier bullet when I get home.
Can this type of bow cause buzzing on higher frets?
When the neck has too much neck relief-up bow- you can have buzzing on the higher frets.
How long the result last any update & how many time you repeate it with this perticular bass...thanks...?
Actually, I might be seeing this bass back in the shop soon...
what do you have under the neck? is it padded?
Joel, I have a piece of 2x4 wood with a cloth wrapped over it. I hope you have subbed to my channel? Thanks for watching.
Do you think it would work if i use an iron (for clothes) to apply heat to the neck?
If you out a tea towel o e the fretboard and used the iron-maybe... you would have to do it for 30mins or more and really know what temp your iron is at. I Never tried that.
You could have also used a cooking bag filled with hot gravy and rice, that way you could have had dinner after the repair was done.
A small spacer or a couple of washers is way easier. I've done that many times with success.
That can work, too
Do you mean adding to the truss rod or so you mean adding in a way to shim the neck?
@@TheSyfoddler Adding to the truss rod.
I have the opposite problem. So truss rod complete loses en no neck relief. Any advice?
Have you checked led to see if it is a 2-way truss rod? After it loosens if you keep turning counterclockwise it might engage again adjusting the neck
@@ManotickGuitarTech Thank you for responding that fast. No its not a 2 way truss rod. its getting complete loses.
@@GuitarPlayersFun you could try heating and bending the neck to a straight position- unusual to have a backbow.
@@ManotickGuitarTech Thank you! I will try that out! It's a cheap electric Yamaha which because of that issue was stored up at the attic for at least 15 years. So nothing to lose, only to win.
I don't understand how dry rice can heat up. There's very little, or almost no water in the rice to heat up.
Give it a try... I am sure it will heat up 😂
Why do you keep the truss tight with the steam, you can achieve a backbow without it
what about using a heat gun to heat the neck?
It would be hard to control the heat and you would have to hold it over the neck for a quite a while... I would be concerned about damaging the finish on the neck.
Hi I have a set neck guitar and in loosened trussrod it has a backbow. I get most of the neck straight by counterclockwise TR adjustment but fret one and two are still on a backbow. Its n LP style guitar. Do you have a vid or a pointer on how deal with this situation? Cheers V
You can heat up the neck the same way I did in his video, but of course it will still be attached to the body. Take it slow and easy when applying the heat. Thanks for watching and I hope you have subbed to my channel?
What about a slighty twisted bass neck,, played fine but when changing strings and started setting it up, could not get E and A strings at correct string height and was to high, D and G were almost perfect, looked down neck from headstock and looks like around the 5th or 6th feet, bass side of bass is twisted up, It is hard to explain in words, but can a neck be un twisted?
Almost same bass a 2004 Squier P but with the PJ configuration and it sounds great and body is mint condition
All most same bass 2004 Squier P but with the PJ configuration
Frank, thanks for watching the video. Unfortunately, twists are almost impossible to get out. You could try clamping the whole neck straight in a neck caul without truss rod tension first a few times and see if that helps (doing the heat process at the same time). Remember I dont reccomend this process on a fret board with a finish like maple.
Rosewood finger board Maple neck is.ok?@@ManotickGuitarTech
@@frankperricone2065 I have only done this on rosewood fingerboards- there is always a risk that the finish on the neck might get damaged... no guarantees
Mmm, steamed neck with socks n' rice.
Could this procedure melt the fret glue and cause them to lift from the fingerboard, creating more probs?
It shouldnt- you would need to get the fret glue up to about 300F to melt it and you are not pulling on the frets at all.
@@ManotickGuitarTech --- I'd like to tell you something that you advised against... I have an old '74 bullet truss Stratocaster that has had the truss maxed out for years and a terrible dip-bow (convex) that you could drive a truck under (lol) and I put it down, not touching it again - until - I saw your video. The neck is a high gloss finished maple (which you advised NOT to apply your technique to), but I have several backup Strats and decided what the heck and I did it anyway --- it worked out great, man! It did not affect the finish on the fretboard at all, but what it did do is break the glue/finish at the FRET ENDS, causing a mild rise and some sharp fret burrs, which I had to lightly file off and redress and guessing I may have over-extended the back-bow and too much pressure at the clamps, not sure -- and it only did this to heated area which was from fret 4 - 11, nothing else was affected. It amazingly set up so well, I don't even need to tighten the truss anymore --- it's completely stress-free on the neck and I don't know if this is a good thing or not, but all I had to do is change the neck shim height and saddle height to suit my playing comfort. The tension from the strings I use (EB 8-38) give just the right amount of bow-stress that still allow for a great action -------- I can't thank you enough for the tips/video and yes, I have subscribed to you! Bravo Zulu, brother!
@@1958marky Glad to hear that worked out! Thanks for the sub, too...
How long in the microwave and at what power? Thanks! I’m trying this right now.
2-3 mins on high until you get to about 135-150f
Thanks. I have it on there now. I’m in the Southern California Desert where it’s 110 degrees. Do you think 4 hours is enough time?
@@Jim5150jvc I would do two applications - check it after 4 hrs to see if it has straightened; add a little more clamp pressure to get a back bow, tighten the truss rod and heat again; then let cool for 24hrs clamped.
@@Jim5150jvc How did it work out for you?
@@ManotickGuitarTech would you believe I lost one of the neck screws, and I’ve been trying forever to find it? 🤣
If your manotick stringworks why don't you just fix the damn truss rod you can just add a couple washers maybe or it's obviously not doing what it should
President's Choice ftw
Hi, I have a back-bow near the bridge. Will this technique help?
Near the bridge??
@@ManotickGuitarTech Sorry for the low effort question. My guitar's neck has a back-bow from the middle of the neck to where the neck joins the guitar's body. I've tried loosening the truss rod but that doesn't fix the problem - It adds a forward bow from fret 1 to fret 8 but not beyond that. This is a 3 month old Pacifica 012. I'm guessing the recent change in temperature here from hot to cold is the cause. Also, I used to line dry wet clothes in my room, this also may be the cause. Thanks for taking the time to look into my issue.
@@nikhilck629 did you check if you have a two-way truss rod? That would add mechanical force and get the relief you need. Keep turning counterclockwise(left loosey) to see if it starts to engage.
@@ManotickGuitarTech I'll check and get back to you.
What if it's a one piece maple neck?
If you've a lacquered finger board, you might damage the finshe with the heat.
@@ManotickGuitarTech it's a pretty SEVERE relic but you mentioned getting the glue to slip and reset. Is it the rosewood stripe on the back in this case?
@@deanmlshredder no, the "skunk stripe" on the back will not move
@@ManotickGuitarTech Please don't mistake my relentless inquisition for incredulity. I'm very curious about why this would work because I'm desperate. Lol. It's such a great guitar but the neck just bows over time without fail and the truss rod is very tight.
@@deanmlshredder sometimes the neck just needs to be replaced
Would this technique be safe on a maple neck/fretboard with a nitro cellulose or poly gloss finish?
I only reccomend it for a natural fretboard like rosewood or ebony...nothing a with a finish on it.
oh, cooked rice. Got it.
@@junlp9492 use it for a stir fry after- 😆
@@ManotickGuitarTech haha
I don't understand why you tightened the truss rod during the process.... Nevermind....I did see where you said that
Glad you found it 😁
I doubt. Kinda too late to fix that bow. Even if you put lighter gauge strings, sooner or later the bow will come back.
It has been over a year and that neck is still straight
Can confirm, did this on my ibanez restoration. As long as you let it cool the glue should harden and it will keep it shape for a decent amount of time. Its much better then getting a new neck or a repair anyway.
*better in terms of cost
Very Cool, fank you
this is a temporary fix, as the moisture level in the neck evens out over the next few weeks it will bend again....do not use this method. adding moisture to one side of wood makes it expand(bow) removing moisture will make it shrink(cup)....and, as I said, over time the wood will equalize and the bend will return.
That certainly can happen and every neck reacts differently. I have done at least a dozen necks this way in the last year and they have all remained adjustable and playable.
@@ManotickGuitarTech I'm sorry if I give your channel any kind of bad representation, but I'm pretty sure you know I am correct(I am assuming this so always room for error)...the only reason that this would continue to hold for years is if the moisture was introduced by the player(or dryness) maybe tilted up against a heater or stove...or near a window where it might get damp(more on one side than the other)....truss rods weren't even invented until they started mass producing guitars as a good way to keep necks straight in a mass produced(use all the crap wood too) manner, but wood is wood...IT WILL EQUALIZE over time based on it's environment.
Many people use this Methode whith good results Whats the Deal with you 😂
@@dominicgangolff2138 I'm not trolling if that's what you mean...are you a wood worker or luthier? Because my points are well grounded in facts and experience.
Who said smth about adding moist, the sock looks dry to me. Personally I would leave the clamps there for some days, after removing the sock.
Interesting topic! At least old classical gets way too high relief, also some new ones (Alhambra classicals = never straight necks, not even in the music stores).
I will just throw out a theory: wood itself has a structural memory, when it comes back to the original shape, it will stay there (?). The clamps and heat just helps the wood to find back to its base. Or what? 🤔
Wow I would never put a hot Sox on my fretboard. You may screw up the fret board. If anything maby on the back of the neck. Don't believe everything you see on TH-cam.
I have a question for you .
I have a classical guitar with a very bent neck. I also bought some very sturdy clamps to correct this.
If you use a clamp to straighten the neck and leave it for a few days and then remove the clamp, it will return to its curved state.
As if the bow is returning to its original state, it will be bent again.
Even if you apply hot heat and work, the same result is obtained.
So I'm at a loss and don't know what to do.
What advice would you give me? This article uses Google Translator, so please understand if there are any unnatural points.
Unfortunately, you can't fix every neck...it probably will stay bowed.
I clamped my classical (in fact two of them, that was bowed) together, face-to-face, made a backbow for 10 days. They both became pretty straight, and still are now after 2 months :)