We just replaced a "bad" starter that the auto parts store said was good. When you hit it with power, it shot out and spun good but with no load on it, once it has the engine load on it, it would turn the crank like 1 full time then the starter had a high pitch squeel to it. So it appeared to be a good starter and passed the visual test but under load it would fail. Once we put the new starter on it, it cranked the engine with ease and fired up. So this event here was a proven test that just because it looks to be working without load does not mean it works under load.
Good to note. My boyfriend and I recently changed the starter in my mum's van on the advice of a "shade tree mechanic" who took a look at the van and figured it was probably the starter. Before anybody says anything about testing first, my mum's friend was the one offering the money (as a loan) to buy a new one, is quite pushy, and the van was sitting infront of her place instead of at home, so anything to get the vehicle started and home where further work could more easily be done was a blessing. Anyway, the new starter still didn't start the van and I asked my (actual) mechanic friend to take a look and see what I could do to get it started. Looking into the electricals now and the job seems to just get more complicated. However, it made me think that the old starter might actually be fine. Since I kept it just in case, I'm looking around to see how I'm supposed to test it without it being installed. I'll definitely not get my hopes up with a bench test until after I reinstall it, thanks to your comment. I don't have a load tester, and can't afford one. Thankfully, the starter is actually easy to change. (I forgot to ask while I was at the store yesterday, but I'm pretty sure their return policy is 30 days. If so, and the old starter is fine, then I'm exchanging the new one for something the van really does need: a new battery. Lol)
@@stiaininbeglan3844 when they test the starter, its under NO load .. so it will pop out and spin free but the true test is under load and they cant simulate a load for a starter. Most starters will fail to pop out and spin when they go bad, this one did pop out and spin under no load but when you put that engine load on it, it would fail ... so it was a tricky one to diagnose.
Attach the hots as shown, then touch the ground to the body. Those arcs will be on the ground clamp and not destroy the threads which make it difficult to remove the nuts holding the wires on. At least that’s the way I’ve always tested one.
@@johnnorris1227 Me too. It was like $5 in parts and I use it whenever I want to jump a starter on the vehicle, turn anything on remotely, etc. It's super handy to have in the shop.
Thank you thank you thank you. I was getting a little disappointed when I couldn’t kick the starter over. I bought a starter for my car from a salvage company and I wasn’t sure if it would start. I hooked it up to my battery charger but it only puts out just enough voltage to click the solenoid. After watching your video I went to my car, pulled out the jumper cables and used a butter knife to jump the starter, but not before I squirted some WD40. I powered it and it runs like a dream. Now I can get my car fixed.
sorry to be off topic but does anybody know a tool to log back into an Instagram account? I was dumb forgot my login password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me.
@Mordechai Abdiel i really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
'That 'bouncing around' is a weak solenoid coil - probably winding to winding insulation breakdown. How to REALLY know that? Amp check the coil when new, and write that down somewhere for later reference [I use paint stick on solenoid itself so I can't lose the number]. If you are experiencing winding to winding insulation breakdown, you will have an overcurrent on the coil - something in the range of 120 to 130% of normal current is typical for something that is "kind of" working, but chatters due to poor field strength. Heat obviously makes it show up worse/maybe no 'click' at all when motor has been full temp for some time.
That’s the same thing I said as soon as he started making that started go. But you know what stupid right now my son’s truck is not running so I diagnose it and came down to the starter that’s the problem the only thing wrong with it is the solenoid. Where do you find the cell annoyed O’Reillys does not carry it anymore AutoZone don’t care anymore Auto plus does and also Napa but I can’t believe how much they’re charging for that crap they only used to be $10 . Now they’re asking $30-$50 for a stupid solenoid I wish a junkyard was close enough to my house where I can just go get a solenoid take care brother God bless you✝️✝️✝️
It's not the solenoid that's old foolish thinking The new age starter spring gear engagement gose bad nothing to do with the solenoid the starter is working as you can see
@@johndaniel3474 Well, since the starters solenoid is the pull in windings, hold windings (Causing the pulling winding ineffective, and the high amperage switch for the cranking motor, why would it not be a solenoid fix. During the 60's, 70's into the 80's, the only boxed part I ever saw was new from the dealer. So we would use the parts required and rebuild it on out bench. Same with the carburetor & distributor. The problem is that reman starters for example, do not test the solenoid with an amperage load on it. If it moves and retracts the pinion gear for engagement, they passed it. So, the correct way is testing the amperage the solenoid uses to engage and the amps the switch was able to conduct to the motor. It is a way to keep cost down and increase the profit margin per unit and it states in the contract. I called out MPA for this practice while as an ASE Master Tech working on contract thru ACDelco working for Raytheon. They simply provided excuses but no changes.
Does it actually matter to figure out which it is? When I looked at solenoids for mine it was cheaper to rip out and replace the whole thing with a rebuilt one.
11 หลายเดือนก่อน +1
I guess for a hobby it might be fun to bench test anything, but I would just rather crawl under my pick up, take the old one out, and go get a new one. Sweet, simple and to the point.
You are correct! I had a starter jumping in and out like that once. I cleaned off the copper plate and the contacts inside the solenoid. Works great now, saving me money for a replacement starter.
My backhoe tractor has either a starter problem or a wiring problem. Could I do this while the starter is already installed on the tractor to test if it spins?
In this video th-cam.com/video/H70RIT9xaxA/w-d-xo.html at 45 seconds he says you can and shows how. Looks like the two bolts on the solenoid. Make sure your car's in neutral or park!!
Thank you thank you! Great video. Very very helpful. Mine clicked once and then just a spark on the solenoid lead. Would make a nice anchor for a kayak. LOL Can't say thank you enough!
Can I ask what part number that starter is or what it came off Please. I have the exact same starter that needs replaced but it has no identifying numbers and is not in the original vehicle. Thank you for a great, concise video.
I ran the same test on my 1994 Camaro Z28 5.7 starter. The starter gear randomly floated back and forth, so that was why my started would not engage the flywheel everytime I turned the ignition. And yeah taking a starter out of a Gen4 Z28 was a real pain.
“The most important tool you need is safety glasses because we’re dealing with electricity” You don’t want to get that electricity splashed in your eyes 😂 (I know things can blow apart)
Yeah been many years even decades since I did this needed a reminder . My 2016 Ford Focus SE 2.0L has been going through several starters and mechanic said I've rear main seal that was soaking oil all over it ..this last time only lasted two weeks and finally did as he said to drill hole in bottom of trans case and a bit of oil not much at all came out . But still, when I took starter off myself the starter was clean not any oil on it .. 1) there's oil leaking though not much from main seal 2) no oil on this last one 3) the other two starters went bad Wha the hell is going on ?? The one about 4 months old did have oil I saw it as the mechanic pulled it . This last one may be due to purely it being defective ??
Does the gear retract right away? Or should it stay pushed out the whole time ? Because I’m testing one right now, and when I put the jumper wires it fully pushes out and retracts. So I’m not sure if it’s bad or not
All automotive equipment, starters, generators, and alternators have to be load tested. Bench spin means almost nothing. Real test bench has 90° piece of a flywheel bolted down. Engage the starter and read the amp draw. This is how it's actually tested.
Why would a starter smoke? I saw my starter wet with oil and so I wiped it but I think the oil made it inside. Every time I try to start it,the starter smokes and it won't start. It's time to test the starter
What would you say is my issue....all i get is a click when turning key over, no crank. Battery confirmed good, lights and dash light up. I even jumped the started whole on vehicle, just clicks. I removed the starter from the vehicle to test in bench, and it seems to work. I will try once again to see if there is jumping, but its not working in the same way when its on the vehicle. Nothing alarming about the connections
the large bolt is ground - it's grounded to the casing of the motor, you can see the connection a the top of the bolt and how it jumps over to the outside of the motor (the casing). you don't need to touch the bigger bolt on the right because it's already connected via the black jumper.
What is the symptom of the starter which move up and down when the car started? Does it have high pitch noise or it won't start because it move back and did not engage the flywheel. Thanks for the video.
hey man, my 2001 vw jetta sat since december 2021, put in a brand new battery, and changed out the starter but the car wont turn over, just sputters or whatever, but wont start up, is the fuel pump dead ? fuel pump relay fuse ? old fuel (15 months) causing the engine to not start ?
Definitely sounds fuel related. Can you hear the pump engage when you turn the key? Do you have mice problems in your area. Sometimes they like to nest in cars and eat wires.
@@MechanicLife i had a mouse nest or squirrels nest 8 or 9 years ago, they put leaves and and other stuff near the battery, but no cables were chewed, i checked all of them out i'm not sure about hearing the fuel pump, what does it sound like ? when spraying carb cleaner directly into the the engine with the air filter removed, it starts but dies within 2 seconds
I just bought a new starter motor and i hit with some juice and it only sparks nothing else happens just sparks why is it dead ? its a big spark it should be working but it’s dead silent no movement at all ?
Could anyone help a brother out... I changed a starter motor and it spins real real slow.. It pops out and spins/ runs fine out the car on bench test.. So I bypassed the cables using jump leads straight to starter... And when it's fitted back in car it only makes the click where the spindle pops out but it doesn't spin when in the car. The positive lead heats up when this happens at the positive starter connection bolt. 2 months and still no further forward. 😭 Not sure why it works fine out the car on bench, but using exact same jump lead connections when fitted in car it just doesn't spin the crank. Driving me insane.
2 bolts, 2 wires. and you should have battery disconnected when removing. but if you have help, you can take it off, reconnect battery, leave it wired and bridge the positive to solenoid positive.
If the starter has not been removed from my boat can I just connect those 2 points together? I know I won’t be able to see it work like this. My starter sounds like it wants to work for a second, but clicks the next second. I then turn the key to the off position. Has a new battery and a new alternator.
Okay when I connected the battery terminals the starter engaged without me even jumping the hot wire to the 12v can someone please help it’s driving me crazy
Because you are trying to simulate the solenoid/starter function as if were still mounted on the vehicle. It creates a power connection to troubleshoot the solenoid, starter and whether or not there is a problem with the gears inside the starter.
My started developed the classic 'Click no start'', I got the starter out and proceeded with the bench test, TEST 1, Negative to the case and positive to the positive terminal 1 on the starter, Result Solenoid works and motor does not spin, TEST 2, Negative to the case and positive terminal 2 on the starter, Result Starter works perfectly and so does the solenoid when power is supplied to the signal post, What could be the issue ? is it the armature , solenoid, Bendix or the brushes. I was told if the armature is shorted , it would never spin.
Well i just got done putting a new starter for in my old 95 e300D, and the new starter also just clicked. Long story short i moved the positive cable on my battery while checking things and i guess the positive battery post was worn out because the car started after i moved it a little. Now tomorrow im going to test the old starter to make sure it isnt broken and if its not, well im putting it back in and getting my money back for the new one. Lesson? Check the battery posts to because even a loose connection will give you a click no start but wont mean the actual starter is bad .
Hello Realy hope you can help me. Iv got a Fiat 128 1974 model My starter ONLY keep crunking (stuck) if cold. Then i take of negative from battery and it stops. Then put cable back. Then start easy whole day. No problem. In morning it stuck when start for 1st time the day. Its summer now in South Africa. But in winter it stuck 2 to 3 times. Then no problem to start. If car is in sun. And start for 1st time the day sometime start 1st time without keep cranking. Sometimes keep crancking ONLY ones. Then start easy. After it starts. I switch of and starts again. I did it 6 times. Off and start off and start. No no no problem. I take of ignition switch wire from starter and jump it straight to battery this morning. Same problem. Stuck and keep cranking. Have to take of negitive wire to stop. Then try start again. Start at ones, no problem Rrrrealy hope someone no what cause this. Thanks so much.
It seems to me that the motor is good, but the holding function of the solenoid is malfunctioning. A solenoid replacement is an easy fix.... ....RooDog....
No. There is no negative cable going to the starter at all, sir. It grounds through the body of the starter through the engine all the way back to the battery itself.
after leanrning to work on cars im shocked how we all drive around risk our lives and others with a bunch of rusty nuts and bolts that all fail matter of time! every moron that drives 100mph plus on roads should losse liscins to save lives
We just replaced a "bad" starter that the auto parts store said was good. When you hit it with power, it shot out and spun good but with no load on it, once it has the engine load on it, it would turn the crank like 1 full time then the starter had a high pitch squeel to it. So it appeared to be a good starter and passed the visual test but under load it would fail.
Once we put the new starter on it, it cranked the engine with ease and fired up.
So this event here was a proven test that just because it looks to be working without load does not mean it works under load.
Thanks for sharing!
Good to note. My boyfriend and I recently changed the starter in my mum's van on the advice of a "shade tree mechanic" who took a look at the van and figured it was probably the starter. Before anybody says anything about testing first, my mum's friend was the one offering the money (as a loan) to buy a new one, is quite pushy, and the van was sitting infront of her place instead of at home, so anything to get the vehicle started and home where further work could more easily be done was a blessing.
Anyway, the new starter still didn't start the van and I asked my (actual) mechanic friend to take a look and see what I could do to get it started. Looking into the electricals now and the job seems to just get more complicated. However, it made me think that the old starter might actually be fine. Since I kept it just in case, I'm looking around to see how I'm supposed to test it without it being installed. I'll definitely not get my hopes up with a bench test until after I reinstall it, thanks to your comment. I don't have a load tester, and can't afford one. Thankfully, the starter is actually easy to change.
(I forgot to ask while I was at the store yesterday, but I'm pretty sure their return policy is 30 days. If so, and the old starter is fine, then I'm exchanging the new one for something the van really does need: a new battery. Lol)
@@stiaininbeglan3844 when they test the starter, its under NO load .. so it will pop out and spin free but the true test is under load and they cant simulate a load for a starter.
Most starters will fail to pop out and spin when they go bad, this one did pop out and spin under no load but when you put that engine load on it, it would fail ... so it was a tricky one to diagnose.
@Roger Jamespaul something loose inside the starter ??
@Roger Jamespaul congrats on the find 👍🏾
Attach the hots as shown, then touch the ground to the body. Those arcs will be on the ground clamp and not destroy the threads which make it difficult to remove the nuts holding the wires on. At least that’s the way I’ve always tested one.
I use a push button remote switch that I made up with alligator clips on both wires for my jumper.
@@johnnorris1227 Me too. It was like $5 in parts and I use it whenever I want to jump a starter on the vehicle, turn anything on remotely, etc. It's super handy to have in the shop.
Thank you, now that makes perfect sense.
Thanks for the upload. Diagnosed my bad starter this way. New one went in and car started.
Thanks very much sir. Saved me a trip to store and learned something.
You bet!
Thanks. Verified my test method. Didn't have alligators so I managed to put the clamp across the two terminals.
Nice work!
That little alligator clip wire gets hot quick!
Thank you. I learned how to do this from your video as I needed to test the starter in my 1966 Buick Wildcat. Have a great day!
You bet!
Thank you thank you thank you. I was getting a little disappointed when I couldn’t kick the starter over. I bought a starter for my car from a salvage company and I wasn’t sure if it would start. I hooked it up to my battery charger but it only puts out just enough voltage to click the solenoid. After watching your video I went to my car, pulled out the jumper cables and used a butter knife to jump the starter, but not before I squirted some WD40. I powered it and it runs like a dream. Now I can get my car fixed.
So cool! Nice work taking on testing this yourself!
Quick and to the point video, helped me out, thanks.
NO problem!
Thanks dude great demo, no waffle, just straight to the point 👍👍👍
sorry to be off topic but does anybody know a tool to log back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb forgot my login password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me.
@Arlo Nathan instablaster =)
@Mordechai Abdiel i really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and Im in the hacking process atm.
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Thanks for the upload mate. It was a massive help when we were stuck for ideas on a weekend
Hey dude thank you so much your video resolved my issue with my 239d bobcat.
Great to hear!
Thank you! went looking and found this video with the exact same starter I have :D
Thanks man, crispy clean and straight to the point.
Thanks!
Cool video sir.
Regards from Turkiye
Thanks!
'That 'bouncing around' is a weak solenoid coil - probably winding to winding insulation breakdown. How to REALLY know that? Amp check the coil when new, and write that down somewhere for later reference [I use paint stick on solenoid itself so I can't lose the number]. If you are experiencing winding to winding insulation breakdown, you will have an overcurrent on the coil - something in the range of 120 to 130% of normal current is typical for something that is "kind of" working, but chatters due to poor field strength. Heat obviously makes it show up worse/maybe no 'click' at all when motor has been full temp for some time.
Nothing wrong with your stater, you just need a new solenoid
So educative
That’s the same thing I said as soon as he started making that started go. But you know what stupid right now my son’s truck is not running so I diagnose it and came down to the starter that’s the problem the only thing wrong with it is the solenoid. Where do you find the cell annoyed O’Reillys does not carry it anymore AutoZone don’t care anymore Auto plus does and also Napa but I can’t believe how much they’re charging for that crap they only used to be $10 . Now they’re asking $30-$50 for a stupid solenoid I wish a junkyard was close enough to my house where I can just go get a solenoid take care brother God bless you✝️✝️✝️
It's not the solenoid that's old foolish thinking
The new age starter spring gear engagement gose bad nothing to do with the solenoid
the starter is working as you can see
@@johndaniel3474 Well, since the starters solenoid is the pull in windings, hold windings (Causing the pulling winding ineffective, and the high amperage switch for the cranking motor, why would it not be a solenoid fix.
During the 60's, 70's into the 80's, the only boxed part I ever saw was new from the dealer. So we would use the parts required and rebuild it on out bench. Same with the carburetor & distributor.
The problem is that reman starters for example, do not test the solenoid with an amperage load on it. If it moves and retracts the pinion gear for engagement, they passed it. So, the correct way is testing the amperage the solenoid uses to engage and the amps the switch was able to conduct to the motor. It is a way to keep cost down and increase the profit margin per unit and it states in the contract. I called out MPA for this practice while as an ASE Master Tech working on contract thru ACDelco working for Raytheon. They simply provided excuses but no changes.
Does it actually matter to figure out which it is? When I looked at solenoids for mine it was cheaper to rip out and replace the whole thing with a rebuilt one.
I guess for a hobby it might be fun to bench test anything, but I would just rather crawl under my pick up, take the old one out, and go get a new one. Sweet, simple and to the point.
Post Covid more often parts are bad from manufacturing...
Inside that solenoid is a big contacter that energizes the motor, that's likely what is worn in this case.
You are correct! I had a starter jumping in and out like that once. I cleaned off the copper plate and the contacts inside the solenoid. Works great now, saving me money for a replacement starter.
My backhoe tractor has either a starter problem or a wiring problem. Could I do this while the starter is already installed on the tractor to test if it spins?
Great vid. Very useful. Thanks for making it.
You bet.
So you are grounding the starter to chassis. Then when you are ready you apply the positive to all three nuts on the solenoid, correct?
Bendix is the word half y'all are looking for!
Thanks!!! I used my booster pack and a wire alligator clip.
Could you do this with it in the car? I’d assume just unplug the electrical harness, right? My starter is a pain in the ass to remove
In this video th-cam.com/video/H70RIT9xaxA/w-d-xo.html at 45 seconds he says you can and shows how. Looks like the two bolts on the solenoid. Make sure your car's in neutral or park!!
Thank you thank you! Great video. Very very helpful. Mine clicked once and then just a spark on the solenoid lead. Would make a nice anchor for a kayak. LOL
Can't say thank you enough!
Glad it worked out for you!! Love the anchor idea;)
2:02 yeah, I'm going to be finding another video, but thanks.
I'm confused lol
Love that you got right to it in a very simple way💯💯
Thanks!
You won’t get a shock, it’s only 12v, you might get burned though.
Smart looking jumper cables though.
Can I ask what part number that starter is or what it came off
Please. I have the exact same starter that needs replaced but it has no identifying numbers and is not in the original vehicle. Thank you for a great, concise video.
You bet. It came off of my 1984 GMC Jimmy full size. 350 motor.
I ran the same test on my 1994 Camaro Z28 5.7 starter. The starter gear randomly floated back and forth, so that was why my started would not engage the flywheel everytime I turned the ignition. And yeah taking a starter out of a Gen4 Z28 was a real pain.
Thanks for the video very helpful and simple
You Bet!
Right on. This is why I'm here. 🤓
Nice!
Great job and very clear
Glad it was helpful!
“The most important tool you need is safety glasses because we’re dealing with electricity”
You don’t want to get that electricity splashed in your eyes 😂
(I know things can blow apart)
Yeah been many years even decades since I did this needed a reminder . My 2016 Ford Focus SE 2.0L has been going through several starters and mechanic said I've rear main seal that was soaking oil all over it ..this last time only lasted two weeks and finally did as he said to drill hole in bottom of trans case and a bit of oil not much at all came out . But still, when I took starter off myself the starter was clean not any oil on it .. 1) there's oil leaking though not much from main seal 2) no oil on this last one 3) the other two starters went bad Wha the hell is going on ?? The one about 4 months old did have oil I saw it as the mechanic pulled it . This last one may be due to purely it being defective ??
Quick question, was that bouncing permanent damage or it is repairable?
This vídeo gets a well deserved "like".
Does the gear retract right away? Or should it stay pushed out the whole time ? Because I’m testing one right now, and when I put the jumper wires it fully pushes out and retracts. So I’m not sure if it’s bad or not
All automotive equipment, starters, generators, and alternators have to be load tested. Bench spin means almost nothing. Real test bench has 90° piece of a flywheel bolted down. Engage the starter and read the amp draw. This is how it's actually tested.
Good job, kind of were shorting when connecting the cables like touching the starter body with your positive jumper but we got the idea. Thanks.
Why would a starter smoke? I saw my starter wet with oil and so I wiped it but I think the oil made it inside. Every time I try to start it,the starter smokes and it won't start. It's time to test the starter
What would you say is my issue....all i get is a click when turning key over, no crank. Battery confirmed good, lights and dash light up. I even jumped the started whole on vehicle, just clicks. I removed the starter from the vehicle to test in bench, and it seems to work. I will try once again to see if there is jumping, but its not working in the same way when its on the vehicle. Nothing alarming about the connections
Do you also touch the bigger bolt on the right?
the large bolt is ground - it's grounded to the casing of the motor, you can see the connection a the top of the bolt and how it jumps over to the outside of the motor (the casing). you don't need to touch the bigger bolt on the right because it's already connected via the black jumper.
What is the symptom of the starter which move up and down when the car started?
Does it have high pitch noise or it won't start because it move back and did not engage the flywheel. Thanks for the video.
Excellent tutorial
Thanks!!
Thank you for your experience I was need this acknowledge.
You bet!
❤❤❤Thanks alot
You Bet!
Can you do this when it still on the car ?
Thx for this video will be helpful 👍🇨🇦
You bet!
would this be a more accurate test than what o reilly does? seems they don't actually run it, just test circuitry.
Thank you for the help 🙂
You bet!
very good will ensure i test new one before putting on,
Nice!
hey man, my 2001 vw jetta sat since december 2021, put in a brand new battery, and changed out the starter
but the car wont turn over, just sputters or whatever, but wont start up, is the fuel pump dead ? fuel pump relay fuse ? old fuel (15 months) causing the engine to not start ?
Definitely sounds fuel related. Can you hear the pump engage when you turn the key? Do you have mice problems in your area. Sometimes they like to nest in cars and eat wires.
@@MechanicLife i had a mouse nest or squirrels nest 8 or 9 years ago, they put leaves and and other stuff near the battery, but no cables were chewed, i checked all of them out
i'm not sure about hearing the fuel pump, what does it sound like ?
when spraying carb cleaner directly into the the engine with the air filter removed, it starts but dies within 2 seconds
I just bought a new starter motor and i hit with some juice and it only sparks nothing else happens just sparks why is it dead ? its a big spark it should be working but it’s dead silent no movement at all ?
@Lukes Garage What year and model truck did that starter come off of? That starter looks huge!
1984 GMC Jimmy WD. I have a video posted of the change out as well.
Basically you could have just replaced the starter drive?
Can i use a 12v powersupply instead of 12v battery to test the starter motor?
Yes. That is what an actual 'bench test' consists of. I use to use tha power supplies off of PCs to supply 5v, 12, and 14v.
What kinda vehicle?
1984 GMC Jimmy
what if it kicks on without the jumper? just as soon as i touch the positive cable
Could anyone help a brother out... I changed a starter motor and it spins real real slow.. It pops out and spins/ runs fine out the car on bench test.. So I bypassed the cables using jump leads straight to starter... And when it's fitted back in car it only makes the click where the spindle pops out but it doesn't spin when in the car. The positive lead heats up when this happens at the positive starter connection bolt. 2 months and still no further forward. 😭 Not sure why it works fine out the car on bench, but using exact same jump lead connections when fitted in car it just doesn't spin the crank. Driving me insane.
Does the starter have to be completely removed from the vehicle. Would probably be easiest. Everything has to be unhooking as far as wires?
2 bolts, 2 wires. and you should have battery disconnected when removing. but if you have help, you can take it off, reconnect battery, leave it wired and bridge the positive to solenoid positive.
If I do this and nothing happens that means my solenoid bad?
If the starter has not been removed from my boat can I just connect those 2 points together? I know I won’t be able to see it work like this. My starter sounds like it wants to work for a second, but clicks the next second. I then turn the key to the off position. Has a new battery and a new alternator.
Might be some corrosion. Spray starter with some WD 40. Happens to me too.
I got excited too
Any idea on what actually was the cause of the starter gear bouncing back and forth. I just replaced the solenoid and it still has same issues.
could be the plunger or the driver being worn or not fuller energized causing it to bounce
@@joshuadomingo9875 starter gear replaced and now works fine.
Great work. Thanks!
yes great demo.
Thanks!
Thank u brother 🙏
YOU BET!
My starter keeps spinning for about 20 seconds after I remove the battery power. Why is that happening?
Got one of those big GM vans they use as food trucks. I can't even get to the starter without a couple of extra elbows.
!!!
Okay when I connected the battery terminals the starter engaged without me even jumping the hot wire to the 12v can someone please help it’s driving me crazy
Bad cylenoid.
Why do I need the two small clips ? I don’t have those
Because you are trying to simulate the solenoid/starter function as if were still mounted on the vehicle. It creates a power connection to troubleshoot the solenoid, starter and whether or not there is a problem with the gears inside the starter.
Shaquoya G you can use a screwdriver and bridge the gap
I seen it done with just the big cables!
Just confirmed i was doing this correctly on a bobcat 435 excavator starter.
My started developed the classic 'Click no start'', I got the starter out and proceeded with the bench test, TEST 1, Negative to the case and positive to the positive terminal 1 on the starter, Result Solenoid works and motor does not spin, TEST 2, Negative to the case and positive terminal 2 on the starter, Result Starter works perfectly and so does the solenoid when power is supplied to the signal post, What could be the issue ? is it the armature , solenoid, Bendix or the brushes. I was told if the armature is shorted , it would never spin.
Well i just got done putting a new starter for in my old 95 e300D, and the new starter also just clicked.
Long story short i moved the positive cable on my battery while checking things and i guess the positive battery post was worn out because the car started after i moved it a little. Now tomorrow im going to test the old starter to make sure it isnt broken and if its not, well im putting it back in and getting my money back for the new one.
Lesson? Check the battery posts to because even a loose connection will give you a click no start but wont mean the actual starter is bad .
Could also be it working until it sees a load. Once it has to turn tha motor over, it'll freeze up, like your mom.
Hello
Realy hope you can help me.
Iv got a Fiat 128 1974 model
My starter ONLY keep crunking (stuck) if cold. Then i take of negative from battery and it stops. Then put cable back. Then start easy whole day. No problem.
In morning it stuck when start for 1st time the day. Its summer now in South Africa. But in winter it stuck 2 to 3 times. Then no problem to start.
If car is in sun. And start for 1st time the day sometime start 1st time without keep cranking. Sometimes keep crancking ONLY ones. Then start easy.
After it starts. I switch of and starts again. I did it 6 times. Off and start off and start. No no no problem.
I take of ignition switch wire from starter and jump it straight to battery this morning. Same problem. Stuck and keep cranking. Have to take of negitive wire to stop. Then try start again. Start at ones, no problem
Rrrrealy hope someone no what cause this. Thanks so much.
Id like to learn to rebuild starters as a part time job.
I got remote start installed in truck now starter acting up
It seems to me that the motor is good, but the holding function of the solenoid is malfunctioning. A solenoid replacement is an easy fix....
....RooDog....
Hi there, thanks for sharing your great video. I learned a lot from this. I will add you in my list to watch.
Awesome! Thanks for the support.
It seems like it drawing a lot of juice?.
In the vehicle, the negative terminal runs to the solenoid. Why run the positive to the solenoid for the bench test?
No. There is no negative cable going to the starter at all, sir. It grounds through the body of the starter through the engine all the way back to the battery itself.
Excellent Thank you.
All mine does is arc n throw alotta big sparks
Starter don’t engage or spin or nothing
Yes.. thank you man.
How many amps did it need to get turning?
12 v a car battery will do
Didn’t even break out a multi meter 😞
Good work
Your testing with a nearly flat battery.
She was brand new at the time. I wanted to make sure that it wasn't a factor in the performance of the starter.
@@MechanicLife Fair enough. But I've never seen such a lazy starter motor.
Thank you!!
Best 👍👍👍
👍🏴😎
Thank you
Thanks!
👍👍👍👍
Just save d me £100, thank you
Freakin cool! Glad to hear;)
after leanrning to work on cars im shocked how we all drive around risk our lives and others with a bunch of rusty nuts and bolts that all fail matter of time! every moron that drives 100mph plus on roads should losse liscins to save lives
No bouncing around
I will never trust the auto parts store (Autozone) tests
probably your old solenoid is bad