amazing video. no fat but and not too fast or over produced. I'm going to follow your method exactly to produce and flush a face frame for a 5 drawer dresser. This seems like a highly effective method and very straight forward.
Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts. Good luck with your project! Cheers
3 ปีที่แล้ว +3
Hello my friend, It's a great idea. I liked your project of making and combining face frames. congratulations. Unless you try out the innovations, you cannot learn something new. And you are always working to teach innovations. And you always produce innovative studies and ideas. Thank you for sharing. See you. greetings. Best regards...
Very humbling! I use a Castle pocket hole machine & a Ritter 5x12 ft face frame table at work....on an assembly line. Watching this chap with out an actual air table do his frames....lol....I have it pretty easy by comparison.
Thanks for the cut off nail alignment trick! I have built 2 sets of kitchen cabinets with the Kreg system and found that setting the drill depth is critical to getting the frame joints to be flush. Even with the vise grip clamps, it takes some trials to get it dialed in.
Thanks Jon! Yep it’s putsy to get it dialed in. The adjustment is pretty coarse (on my “old school” model anyway). Would be nice to have some form of micro adjustment.
Jon M - I've used Pocket Holes like every-one else but I've never been very happy with them - mainly for the alignment/flush issue you brought up. Take a look at the Castle 110 pocket-hole jig. Much better results and the holes look professionally machined and not raggedy-ass like pocket holes made with a drill.
Nice tips. Liked the nail trick and also the block-plane instead of the flush trim bit. I've used pocket-hole in the past to attach face frames but going to try to go w/ just glue in the future.
thank you for not talking 500 mph. The people who are talking so fast in these videos. Do not give you time to absorb what they're saying. Thanks we're not being one of them. That gets a like video from me. Thanks. 5:14
Nice process. Wondering about the drawer front used to space drawer opening. I'm assuming not the actual drawer front since you didn't allow for clearance, correct?
Hi Wayne, I’m not aware of a standard formula, but it would be worth asking a designer that question. I usually eyeball it and ask my wife to verify, which is probably not the precise response you were looking for.
Have a quick question for you....Im building a full set of cabinets for my kitchen. I have built many cabinets before but Im trying to raise the bar on these cabinets. Im going to paint the cabinets so Im going to use 3.4 sandyply for the cabinets. My question is what is the best wood to use for face frames. I have tried ply, mdf, and pine....Not a real fan of any of those materials. What do you suggest.
I was always taught and with practice, "If you cut square, it will frame square" In Finish carpentry as well as Framing a house. No need to leave an 1/8" overhang. If your cabinet carcass is out of square. If you use a flush trim bit then your stiles won't be parallel to their selves now will they...? That will make it harder to align your doors and drawer faces too...!
Hi Gregory, thanks for watching and sharing your feedback. It’s a nice theory but square cuts simply aren’t enough. You can make perfectly square cuts and glue a cabinet carcass or frame a house and be way out of square if you don’t follow good assembly practices. 1/8” total is 1/16” per side isn’t very much. If you have some overhang everywhere at assembly time, it will be square enough for inset doors and drawers. It’s impressive that you and your teacher are able to build with this zero tolerance approach but most people who are watching a TH-cam video on making face frames are just learning and it’s hard to start out perfect. Cheers, Paul
I typically match the veneer on the cabinet carcase. If you are painting, then maple or birch are good choices. Or whatever closed grain hardwood is cheapest.
You’ll find that this is a pretty common occurrence in the world of TH-cam. As they say, if you’re not paying for the product, then you are the product.
Thanks Gino. What is your approach? I’ve used biscuits, mortise and tenon, and dowels. I like pocket holes best but I’m always interested in how other woodworkers do this.
@@ToolMetrix : anything but pocket holes it just seems like a cheap way out and i enjoy woodworking so much that i look forward to taking all the time it requires to join wood with traditional methods. pocket screws i’m my opinion are a high production joinery method to increase production and lower costs. i fine woodworking to be incredibly fun and therapeutic. just my own joinery not to use pocket holes. the face frames i am building and have built, are half lapped, with the ends of the rails that extend far enough to sit against the box, but not seen on the outer sides. i guess you could call them half blind half lap.
amazing video. no fat but and not too fast or over produced. I'm going to follow your method exactly to produce and flush a face frame for a 5 drawer dresser. This seems like a highly effective method and very straight forward.
Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts. Good luck with your project! Cheers
Hello my friend,
It's a great idea. I liked your project of making and combining face frames. congratulations. Unless you try out the innovations, you cannot learn something new. And you are always working to teach innovations. And you always produce innovative studies and ideas. Thank you for sharing. See you. greetings. Best regards...
Thank you Sahane! 🙏 all best to you my friend. Cheers, Paul
Very humbling! I use a Castle pocket hole machine & a Ritter 5x12 ft face frame table at work....on an assembly line. Watching this chap with out an actual air table do his frames....lol....I have it pretty easy by comparison.
Sounds like you have a great setup! For the 1-2 per year that I do, this works well enough 🤣.
Congratulations on passing the 20k threshold, Paul
Thanks, Charlie!
Thanks for the cut off nail alignment trick! I have built 2 sets of kitchen cabinets with the Kreg system and found that setting the drill depth is critical to getting the frame joints to be flush. Even with the vise grip clamps, it takes some trials to get it dialed in.
Thanks Jon! Yep it’s putsy to get it dialed in. The adjustment is pretty coarse (on my “old school” model anyway). Would be nice to have some form of micro adjustment.
Jon M - I've used Pocket Holes like every-one else but I've never been very happy with them - mainly for the alignment/flush issue you brought up. Take a look at the Castle 110 pocket-hole jig. Much better results and the holes look professionally machined and not raggedy-ass like pocket holes made with a drill.
@@razorwired130 Seriously, $700 Give me a break. This is not a DIY tool, its for someone making cabinets professionally everyday.
Nice tips. Liked the nail trick and also the block-plane instead of the flush trim bit. I've used pocket-hole in the past to attach face frames but going to try to go w/ just glue in the future.
Thanks. Let me know how it goes. Cheers
Well made and informative video.
Thank you for watching.
Very helpful, thank you!
Thanks for the feedback, Chris. Cheers, Paul
Great video!!!!.informative and to the point...useful info also...Suscribed!!
Thanks for sharing your feedback with me and for the sub. Cheers, Paul
Nicely executed! I have seen the application of salt to the glue in order to prevent slippage. However, I like the nail cut off alignment trick. 👍👍
Thanks Steve 🙏! I like the salt trick as well. All useful. Cheers, Paul
I like it too but, you only get one shot to get it right or you have to unclamp it and then pull if off the pin.
Nice video subbed 👍🏻
Thank you 🙏
First congratulation on your 20K you well deserve it . on the Face frame if you know how to do it it looks easy
Thank you, Ahron!! 🙏
thank you for not talking 500 mph. The people who are talking so fast in these videos. Do not give you time to absorb what they're saying. Thanks we're not being one of them. That gets a like video from me. Thanks. 5:14
Thanks for watching, and I really appreciate your feedback. Cheers, Paul
Nice process. Wondering about the drawer front used to space drawer opening. I'm assuming not the actual drawer front since you didn't allow for clearance, correct?
Thank you. I typically make full overlay drawers with false fronts, which was the case for this project.
Is there any standard or good advise on determining the width of the stiles and rails?
Hi Wayne, I’m not aware of a standard formula, but it would be worth asking a designer that question. I usually eyeball it and ask my wife to verify, which is probably not the precise response you were looking for.
Have a quick question for you....Im building a full set of cabinets for my kitchen. I have built many cabinets before but Im trying to raise the bar on these cabinets. Im going to paint the cabinets so Im going to use 3.4 sandyply for the cabinets. My question is what is the best wood to use for face frames. I have tried ply, mdf, and pine....Not a real fan of any of those materials. What do you suggest.
I usually use maple or birch. Great for painting. Cheap around here. Poplar is good for painting as well if that can save you some money.
@@ToolMetrix Not sure what is available here but I will look and compare prices....Thank you for the information
I was always taught and with practice, "If you cut square, it will frame square" In Finish carpentry as well as Framing a house. No need to leave an 1/8" overhang. If your cabinet carcass is out of square. If you use a flush trim bit then your stiles won't be parallel to their selves now will they...? That will make it harder to align your doors and drawer faces too...!
Hi Gregory, thanks for watching and sharing your feedback. It’s a nice theory but square cuts simply aren’t enough. You can make perfectly square cuts and glue a cabinet carcass or frame a house and be way out of square if you don’t follow good assembly practices. 1/8” total is 1/16” per side isn’t very much. If you have some overhang everywhere at assembly time, it will be square enough for inset doors and drawers. It’s impressive that you and your teacher are able to build with this zero tolerance approach but most people who are watching a TH-cam video on making face frames are just learning and it’s hard to start out perfect. Cheers, Paul
What type of wood do you recommend for the face frame?
I typically match the veneer on the cabinet carcase. If you are painting, then maple or birch are good choices. Or whatever closed grain hardwood is cheapest.
How to install 155 degree Salice cabinet door hinges
Should be the same installation process as normal euro cup hinges. I recently installed some similar to this on a corner cabinet and had no problems.
Your link is wrong... I cannot find your 3 hold jig kit...
Thanks for checking. K3 link seems ok to me: amzn.to/3sui9IV
Doesn't anyone use mortise and tenon joinery anymore. Pocket holes are so boring.
Yes I use m&t all the time for furniture construction. Not necessary for a cabinet face frame IMO.
Hmmm, couldn’t be bothered to watch the video after being forced to watch such lengthy ads at the beginning
You’ll find that this is a pretty common occurrence in the world of TH-cam. As they say, if you’re not paying for the product, then you are the product.
pocket holes, no thanks
Thanks Gino. What is your approach? I’ve used biscuits, mortise and tenon, and dowels. I like pocket holes best but I’m always interested in how other woodworkers do this.
@@ToolMetrix : anything but pocket holes
it just seems like a cheap way out and i enjoy woodworking so much that i look forward to taking all the time it requires to join wood with traditional methods.
pocket screws i’m my opinion are a high production joinery method to increase production and lower costs.
i fine woodworking to be incredibly fun and therapeutic.
just my own joinery not to use pocket holes.
the face frames i am building and have built, are half lapped, with the ends of the rails that extend far enough to sit against the box, but not seen on the outer sides.
i guess you could call them half blind half lap.
Thanks Gino. That’s an elegant approach. Cheers
awful sound
Hey thanks for the heads up!