Generally speaking, Do you know which versions of 15rd mags perform best with National Postal Meter (NPM) M1's. I haven't found reasonably-priced NPM mags ("MN" or "UN" marked). I may purchase one or two at the high price if there aren't any others that perform reliably. Thank you for sharing the video and fr your time.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I have a Quality Hardware & 3 original mags to go with it. I always had a problem with the last 2 rounds feeding properly. I wrote this off to weak springs & lived with it for 10 years. I revisited my rifle this week & stumbled on your video.Sure enough, all my mags were reversed as you described in your video. This happened due to the fact that I stripped & cleaned all my mags when I got the rifle, before shooting the rifle. I reversed the mags as you described & the rifle runs flawlessly, after 150 rounds. I'm grateful to people like yourself for taking the time to help.
Well, damn! I have been having feeding problems with my Saginaw: Fixed the magazines as you prescribed and NO MORE FEEDING PROBLEMS!!! You helped me a lot: Loving my M1 Carbine again!
norwich93CMP: Love my M1 Carbine...it is "The Weapon" for me to go to if things started to go to hell...If someone called me up and told me that 10 bad guys were coming to my house to do me in and I had to choose "A" weapon, I would take my M1 Carbine and two 30 round clips and feel confident that I could hold my own: M1 Carbine is the most underrated weapon I know about.
Man, I gotta thank you. I just disassembled my 30 round mag and fixed the spring issue cause otherwise I was honestly gonna pitch it. Thank you SO MUCH!
CRC used to make an aerosol "chain lube" that dried and left a film of Molybdenum (Disulfide) dry lube behind. I found it works wonders on M1 Carbine Magazines!
Nice but I do not recommend any lube or oil inside the magazine other than a light coat on the spring to prevent rust on it only. The more lubes and oil the more it has to be cleaned and checked.
This is a DRY FILM "lubricant".Have you ever used any "dry film" Lubricants? the only Liquid component is their "carrier" which is more like a solvent which entirely evaporates away... Additionally the solvent can be entirely removed after application, by "Baking" any coated pieces in a 400Deg oven for 30mins. the moly disulfide will actually bake into the pores of the metal! and actually penetrate into the crystal lattice of the metal to a depth of 0.020".BTW, tests done years (Decades) ago proved that coating springs with Mo2S greatly reduced the incidence of fatigue fractures.
Thank you so much. I took several mags apart and found the spring was indeed reversed. Went out and test fired, every one 10rd, 15 and 30 round magazine performed flawlessly.
Hello again. Thanks for getting back to me. The problem with getting mags covered with oil, perhaps cosmoline. I tried boiling them with liquid detergent, then soaking in mineral spirits. Neither seemed satisfactory, but I wanted to open them to dry the insides. I've only done one and it was a mess. The base plate had to be pried with a small driver at the forward end to space it from the body, and a second driver at the rear to push the squared end of the plate away from the body. I think I finally yanked the plate off with pliers. I lost track of the orientation of the spring and in any of the four possible orientations, the back of the follower seemed to drop off toward the back. Putting the base back in place was a challenge as there is no groove to follow, only the narrow flanges that keep the plate from falling out. I managed to 'slide' the plate into place, but there was a gap at the back where the plate leaned into the body of the mag. I pushed the leader as far down as it would go to settle the plate, but there was still a very small gap. Now, I don't want to mess with the other mags, which may be starting to rust, until I have some ideas from you. Thanks.
Wiped down with paper towels best you can. Use denatured alcohol with paper towels until almost finished. Use dry paper towels then Q-tips with alcohol, then dry. That should help.
@@norwich93CMP Thanks. Is the inside not greased? And what about reassembling as described above. Did I do irreparable damage? How do I determine if the spring is in wrong it all positions for the spring look wrong?
Not lube or grease inside. Light coat of oil on the outside. Tallest parts of the spring to the back of the magazine, shortest to the front (muzzle side.) You shouldn't have damaged. USGI mags are tougher than aftermarket.
I bought some new 30 rd mags (name withheld) and had a hard time getting the rounds loaded, plate out or back in. Turned out the mag wasn't square so the sides were too close to each other. I had to pry them apart to get enough room to get the plate back in. It's hard to see but if looking at the end you can see a wider gap on one side than the other. I'm going to have to take all four apart and try to make them square. You might want to check yours for that problem. They apparently weren't bent far enough when making them. Also I was going to oil the inside, BUT, not now. I have some CRC spray electronic lubricant which dries after applying and leaves a protective chemical film. 2-26 is for electronic (volume control knob) and 5-56 (Power Lube) is for electrical motor starters etc.
Sometimes with strong magazine bases you have to get a plastic punch and push the front of the base from the top while putting pressure towards the back.
Thanks, one more original M1 Carbine magazine saved thanks to your video. Bought it and thought the magazine was bad. It was only badly reassembled but now fixed. Thanks again!
Thk u Sir for ur Video. I don't believe you correct on the followers. The first follower is "mostly" in the 15 round Mag, that was standard with the angled ramp. The second was made for the "M2" and M1, the ramp was cut/modified to hold the bolt open. They were both made at the end of World War II or after for Korea or Vietnam. The way you tell the difference if it is WWII or not, is the manufacture that is stamped on it. Thks again.
I went to a swapmeet and found 10 usgi mags for 50 dollars cleaned them up in the solvent tank they are like new so much 75 years dry cosmoline they wouldn't move keep up the videos sir nice job
I have never got one with the spring backwards. Luckily I got one with matching #s that never was issued or shipped overseas to the many wars they were used in. My dad had one that was sent back here before Clinton put so many restrictions on importing guns to US. Millions are in arsenals overseas that saw combat. His had replaced parts, beat up pretty good. Often threw cases up, side, and in your face!! Ouch! But that's why at the time and now if you see one with a large arsenal stamping on barrel it was and still should be much cheaper. Around 1990 you could get one for $150-$200, mine was $350 that was the diff. I have watched prices go skyrocket. Just a year or two ago I bought an inland 15rd for $12-15. Gi / Period M2 stamped 30 round for $25-30. Today at the gunshow 15rd WW2/Korea era $35-$55. I wanted another spare so I bought a Korean made one for $10 in wrapper. Works great. After all South Korea and US forces used the carbine heavily during the war. Even during WW2 in the Pacific most GI's preferred carbines in the tropical areas especially. Im glad I got mine decades ago is all I can say cause they are $1200 plus now at gun shows for a nice one. And bayonets???? $279?????? Common guys. Wear a condom if you go to buy now!!!
I believe it was a manufacturer difference rather than a time frame difference. When the type II bottoms came out I never saw one with a hole, only some type Is.
I spray a bit of Remington Gun Oil with Teflon on the inside of my mags, rifle or pistol, then wipe down the inside with a clean cloth and reassemble. I've never had an issue with crud inside a mag enough to prevent normal functioning. One caveat is that I haven't served in Iraq or Afghanistan or anywhere where there is blowing sand. I bet it wouldn't be an issue with regular mag cleaning but I'd probably not do it to be safe.
If i was having issues with the round on the right side in the magazine the bolt wouldnt close all the way but the left side round would let the bolt close all the way after the bolt pushes it out of the magazine i found the end of the brass where it meets with bullet that little lip would catch on the edge of the magazine so you have to use a dremmel tool with a smalllong grinding bit and take away or notch where the lip of the brass hits the edge of the magazine on the way out after i did that and polished the edges with the dremmel polish works like a charm bolt closes all the way everytime if you look at the front egde of the magazine the one side has a small notch where as the other side is straight just notch that one side and all feeding problems solved.
Howdy, Are you still there? I had problems reassembling my 15 rd magazine. I'd like to wait to hear you're still there before going into detail. Thanks. John
I disagree on oiling the inside of a mag. I have found surplus mags to have a lot of rust inside as well as sand or other junk. I always disassemble any mag I buy, check the springs for proper position and rust and lightly oil them and then wipe them dry = NO EXCESS OIL. Swab out the inside of the mag with a small wire brush and a rag and then apply a light coat of oil here also. Then swab the mag dry inside of any excess oil. This is routine maintenance for the mag every time it comes back from the range or a hunt. You can carry 2 o 3 loaded clips in your pack or coat pocket in a ziplock baggie and keep all that lint and other crap out of them. Just use a little common sense.
What’s a good reliable aftermarket mag to get. Finally dusted of my M1 but no mags. It’s a repro, so who knows how it’s going to run but I want to make sure I got good mags in it.
All mags will wiggle a bit, especially with a M or M underlined mag catch. It had a bit taken off and the spring puts pressure on the back of the mag pushing it forward.
I dont necessarily agree with what youre saying with the follower spring. Out of curiosity i tried this with 5 USGI mags. (1 Rock-Ola, 1 Winchester, 1 United Postal Meter, 1 IBM, and 1 Inland). In theory this makes complete sense, but i didnt see a difference at all.
Tyler Smith All he is showing is what is in the USGI manual on the US M1 .30 Carbine for the proper orientation of the mag spring. The spring ends on both the 15 and 30 round mags are clearly facing to the rear, not forward. www.falloutsystems.net/armory/30.jpg Full text. www.falloutsystems.net/armory/tbcarbsec3.htm Or www.90thidpg.us/Reference/Manuals/TM9-1276_1947.pdf
Being longer, with the pressure points, to the back of the magazine allows the rounds to seat up against the lips for positive feeding. When reversed the rear of the rounds can fall below the height required to strip a round off when the bolt goes forward after firing.
Would this be same problem ? on two 30 round after market magazine over 20 rounds will fail to feed , remove magazine flip over and same rounds will drop out, with few rounds at the bottom of magazine jamming spring from pushing up.
hey i have an M1 carbine, .22lr by chiappa i want to know if i can make my last round clink like the original one u have, i cant find any info on this topic or any magazines, anyone mind helping me out ? @norwich93cmp
Usually 2 causes. First is crudy internally and needs a through cleaning of the mag catch (see other video) or second the detents to the rear of the mag are pushed in.
When I have an issue with ANYTHING m1 carbine related, I search for this gentleman's great videos ! He is my "go to guy" thank you sir 👍
I appreciate that comment very much. Glad to be useful to everyone.
Generally speaking, Do you know which versions of 15rd mags perform best with National Postal Meter (NPM) M1's. I haven't found reasonably-priced NPM mags ("MN" or "UN" marked). I may purchase one or two at the high price if there aren't any others that perform reliably. Thank you for sharing the video and fr your time.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I have a Quality Hardware & 3 original mags to go with it. I always had a problem with the last 2 rounds feeding properly. I wrote this off to weak springs & lived with it for 10 years. I revisited my rifle this week & stumbled on your video.Sure enough, all my mags were reversed as you described in your video. This happened due to the fact that I stripped & cleaned all my mags when I got the rifle, before shooting the rifle. I reversed the mags as you described & the rifle runs flawlessly, after 150 rounds.
I'm grateful to people like yourself for taking the time to help.
Well, damn! I have been having feeding problems with my Saginaw: Fixed the magazines as you prescribed and NO MORE FEEDING PROBLEMS!!! You helped me a lot: Loving my M1 Carbine again!
Glad to hear that, this is the purpose of doing the video in the first place, helping others enjoy what I enjoy!!
norwich93CMP: Love my M1 Carbine...it is "The Weapon" for me to go to if things started to go to hell...If someone called me up and told me that 10 bad guys were coming to my house to do me in and I had to choose "A" weapon, I would take my M1 Carbine and two 30 round clips and feel confident that I could hold my own: M1 Carbine is the most underrated weapon I know about.
Man, I gotta thank you. I just disassembled my 30 round mag and fixed the spring issue cause otherwise I was honestly gonna pitch it. Thank you SO MUCH!
Glad it helped out.
Loved the explanation! Magazines are often one of the most over-looked items to get proper maintenance.
Thanks!
John
You bet!
Every one of my mags had the spring in backwards! Thanks Norwich!
CRC used to make an aerosol "chain lube" that dried and left a film of Molybdenum (Disulfide) dry lube behind. I found it works wonders on M1 Carbine Magazines!
Nice but I do not recommend any lube or oil inside the magazine other than a light coat on the spring to prevent rust on it only. The more lubes and oil the more it has to be cleaned and checked.
This is a DRY FILM "lubricant".Have you ever used any "dry film" Lubricants? the only Liquid component is their "carrier" which is more like a solvent which entirely evaporates away... Additionally the solvent can be entirely removed after application, by "Baking" any coated pieces in a 400Deg oven for 30mins. the moly disulfide will actually bake into the pores of the metal! and actually penetrate into the crystal lattice of the metal to a depth of 0.020".BTW, tests done years (Decades) ago proved that coating springs with Mo2S greatly reduced the incidence of fatigue fractures.
Thank you so much. I took several mags apart and found the spring was indeed reversed. Went out and test fired, every one 10rd, 15 and 30 round magazine performed flawlessly.
Nice to hear that. Hopefully it fixed some malfunctions you were having previously. Enjoy!!!
Excellent video. Thanks for this important tip.
Hello again. Thanks for getting back to me. The problem with getting mags covered with oil, perhaps cosmoline. I tried boiling them with liquid detergent, then soaking in mineral spirits. Neither seemed satisfactory, but I wanted to open them to dry the insides. I've only done one and it was a mess. The base plate had to be pried with a small driver at the forward end to space it from the body, and a second driver at the rear to push the squared end of the plate away from the body. I think I finally yanked the plate off with pliers. I lost track of the orientation of the spring and in any of the four possible orientations, the back of the follower seemed to drop off toward the back. Putting the base back in place was a challenge as there is no groove to follow, only the narrow flanges that keep the plate from falling out. I managed to 'slide' the plate into place, but there was a gap at the back where the plate leaned into the body of the mag. I pushed the leader as far down as it would go to settle the plate, but there was still a very small gap. Now, I don't want to mess with the other mags, which may be starting to rust, until I have some ideas from you. Thanks.
Wiped down with paper towels best you can. Use denatured alcohol with paper towels until almost finished. Use dry paper towels then Q-tips with alcohol, then dry. That should help.
@@norwich93CMP Thanks. Is the inside not greased? And what about reassembling as described above. Did I do irreparable damage? How do I determine if the spring is in wrong it all positions for the spring look wrong?
Not lube or grease inside. Light coat of oil on the outside. Tallest parts of the spring to the back of the magazine, shortest to the front (muzzle side.) You shouldn't have damaged. USGI mags are tougher than aftermarket.
@@norwich93CMP Thanks a bunch. Much appreciated.
I bought some new 30 rd mags (name withheld) and had a hard time getting the rounds loaded, plate out or back in. Turned out the mag wasn't square so the sides were too close to each other. I had to pry them apart to get enough room to get the plate back in. It's hard to see but if looking at the end you can see a wider gap on one side than the other. I'm going to have to take all four apart and try to make them square. You might want to check yours for that problem. They apparently weren't bent far enough when making them. Also I was going to oil the inside, BUT, not now. I have some CRC spray electronic lubricant which dries after applying and leaves a protective chemical film. 2-26 is for electronic (volume control knob) and 5-56 (Power Lube) is for electrical motor starters etc.
Sometimes with strong magazine bases you have to get a plastic punch and push the front of the base from the top while putting pressure towards the back.
Man saved me from selling my rifle. Helped a lot. Thanks boss
Glad it helped!!!
excellent video. Just cleaned the magazines I got today for my "new" 1943 carbine.
Thanks, one more original M1 Carbine magazine saved thanks to your video. Bought it and thought the magazine was bad. It was only badly reassembled but now fixed. Thanks again!
Good tip. Thanks. I see a lot of videos where the poster is complaining about this very problem.
Thanks Man! Never to old to learn something new
Thk u Sir for ur Video. I don't believe you correct on the followers. The first follower is "mostly" in the 15 round Mag, that was standard with the angled ramp. The second was made for the "M2" and M1, the ramp was cut/modified to hold the bolt open. They were both made at the end of World War II or after for Korea or Vietnam. The way you tell the difference if it is WWII or not, is the manufacture that is stamped on it. Thks again.
The flat magazine floor plate came out first (earliest). Some manufacturers had a hole in the bottom and some didn't.
I went to a swapmeet and found 10 usgi mags for 50 dollars cleaned them up in the solvent tank they are like new so much 75 years dry cosmoline they wouldn't move keep up the videos sir nice job
Good stuff
Such a nice little free bunch of tips. Useful. Thanks
Thank you!!!
Great tip. One of my magazines has exactly that same problem. Can’t wait to fix it.
Right on!!!
I have never got one with the spring backwards. Luckily I got one with matching #s that never was issued or shipped overseas to the many wars they were used in. My dad had one that was sent back here before Clinton put so many restrictions on importing guns to US. Millions are in arsenals overseas that saw combat. His had replaced parts, beat up pretty good. Often threw cases up, side, and in your face!! Ouch! But that's why at the time and now if you see one with a large arsenal stamping on barrel it was and still should be much cheaper. Around 1990 you could get one for $150-$200, mine was $350 that was the diff. I have watched prices go skyrocket. Just a year or two ago I bought an inland 15rd for $12-15. Gi / Period M2 stamped 30 round for $25-30. Today at the gunshow 15rd WW2/Korea era $35-$55. I wanted another spare so I bought a Korean made one for $10 in wrapper. Works great. After all South Korea and US forces used the carbine heavily during the war. Even during WW2 in the Pacific most GI's preferred carbines in the tropical areas especially. Im glad I got mine decades ago is all I can say cause they are $1200 plus now at gun shows for a nice one. And bayonets???? $279?????? Common guys. Wear a condom if you go to buy now!!!
I believe it was a manufacturer difference rather than a time frame difference. When the type II bottoms came out I never saw one with a hole, only some type Is.
Great video.
Your videos are wonderful! Thank you.
Glad to hear that, thank you.
I spray a bit of Remington Gun Oil with Teflon on the inside of my mags, rifle or pistol, then wipe down the inside with a clean cloth and reassemble. I've never had an issue with crud inside a mag enough to prevent normal functioning. One caveat is that I haven't served in Iraq or Afghanistan or anywhere where there is blowing sand. I bet it wouldn't be an issue with regular mag cleaning but I'd probably not do it to be safe.
If i was having issues with the round on the right side in the magazine the bolt wouldnt close all the way but the left side round would let the bolt close all the way after the bolt pushes it out of the magazine i found the end of the brass where it meets with bullet that little lip would catch on the edge of the magazine so you have to use a dremmel tool with a smalllong grinding bit and take away or notch where the lip of the brass hits the edge of the magazine on the way out after i did that and polished the edges with the dremmel polish works like a charm bolt closes all the way everytime if you look at the front egde of the magazine the one side has a small notch where as the other side is straight just notch that one side and all feeding problems solved.
Umm, thanks. Dude, you have one period in that whole comment! LOL Yes check the lips. USGI are harder than aftermarket so beware!
Thank you for the information this was my issue
Glad it helped.
Thanks for the info....sure enough, some of my mag springs were backwards.
Glad it helped!
Great tutorial. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this information, it explained a lot.👌🤠👍
Good, hopefully it helps you save a few mags and cuts down on the frustration of malfunctions.
Howdy, Are you still there? I had problems reassembling my 15 rd magazine. I'd like to wait to hear you're still there before going into detail. Thanks. John
Yes I am! Stupid TH-cam changed the format and I was not getting any comments until now. My apologizes, what can I help you with????
Thx for sharing
Thank you. I always learn a lot watching your videos.
As far as the 30 Rnd one, Were those types used after WW2 or during the KoreanWar?
30 rounders were at the end of WWII. 15 rounders were still used in Korea.
Wow Thanks, some of my Magazines had upside down springs
Brilliant 👍
I've been having that problem for a while. Thanks for posting this vid!
i used a like new mag for a assembly guide once
.the spring was reversed..😕
Thank you learned alot.
Thanks. Good information.
You're welcome
I disagree on oiling the inside of a mag. I have found surplus mags to have a lot of rust inside as well as sand or other junk. I always disassemble any mag I buy, check the springs for proper position and rust and lightly oil them and then wipe them dry = NO EXCESS OIL. Swab out the inside of the mag with a small wire brush and a rag and then apply a light coat of oil here also. Then swab the mag dry inside of any excess oil. This is routine maintenance for the mag every time it comes back from the range or a hunt. You can carry 2 o 3 loaded clips in your pack or coat pocket in a ziplock baggie and keep all that lint and other crap out of them. Just use a little common sense.
great advice!
Glad it was helpful!
Can you swap the WWII USGI follower in the 15 rnd box with the aftermarket follower so the bolt remains open?
+ArimaKihe1 Yes you can. Some are aftermarket and may not work well.
Nice tip, thanks!
You bet!
Excellent. Thank you sir!
Very welcome sir!!
What’s a good reliable aftermarket mag to get. Finally dusted of my M1 but no mags. It’s a repro, so who knows how it’s going to run but I want to make sure I got good mags in it.
KCI 15 rounders are decent. But I recommend GI. Be careful, they make repro U marked mags.
I just got some Korean magazines and I cannot get the bottoms off of them. Do you have any advice?
Did the drain hole on the type 1 magazine floorplate come out first?
Norwich yo, did ANY 15 rd. WW2 mags have the last round bolt hold open on the follower ? I know the 30 rd. did. Thank's
Nope, they did not have them.
@@norwich93CMP thank's i thought so.
Great. Thanks!!!
Thanks for sharing the info!
Had a question. I heard the mags when put in the mag well aren't suppose to wiggle. If so, would getting a new mag catch and release help? Thanks
All mags will wiggle a bit, especially with a M or M underlined mag catch. It had a bit taken off and the spring puts pressure on the back of the mag pushing it forward.
I wonder if WW2 GIs facing this problem on battleground like when they're first dealt with M16 stoppage during Vietnam.
Nope, magazines were disposable, thrown them out if they weren't working.
And M16 issues were from the earlier ammo, not the mags.
Hi . Are all 15 round mags ww2 issue? If not what’s the difference with a post war 15 round mag?
No. There are a few aftermarket magazines produced after WWII, but most 15-rounders are WWII.
@@norwich93CMP my 15 round has a hole at the bottom side . Apparently drainage hole manufacturer is AI
Very informative. Thank you.
Your welcome.
I dont necessarily agree with what youre saying with the follower spring. Out of curiosity i tried this with 5 USGI mags. (1 Rock-Ola, 1 Winchester, 1 United Postal Meter, 1 IBM, and 1 Inland). In theory this makes complete sense, but i didnt see a difference at all.
Tyler Smith All he is showing is what is in the USGI manual on the US M1 .30 Carbine for the proper orientation of the mag spring. The spring ends on both the 15 and 30 round mags are clearly facing to the rear, not forward.
www.falloutsystems.net/armory/30.jpg
Full text.
www.falloutsystems.net/armory/tbcarbsec3.htm
Or
www.90thidpg.us/Reference/Manuals/TM9-1276_1947.pdf
Being longer, with the pressure points, to the back of the magazine allows the rounds to seat up against the lips for positive feeding. When reversed the rear of the rounds can fall below the height required to strip a round off when the bolt goes forward after firing.
Thank you very much. Very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Would this be same problem ? on two 30 round after market magazine over 20 rounds will fail to feed , remove magazine flip over and same rounds will drop out, with few rounds at the bottom of magazine jamming spring from pushing up.
awesome thank you!
Your welcome. Sometimes the easiest thing is a big help.
I can't seem to open them with a screwdriver
Thanks , all mine were backwards too , I bet that was the problem
I hope they work well for you.
I have a couple 30 rders checked the springs both look good. FTF on an M1 and M2 any help please.
30 round mags are junk. Especially aftermarket ones. Ive never seen a single reliable one.
Thanks
Thank you.
u know ur stuff
Thank you John.
Great information. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
hey i have an M1 carbine, .22lr by chiappa
i want to know if i can make my last round clink like the original one u have, i cant find any info on this topic or any magazines, anyone mind helping me out ?
@norwich93cmp
Wrong rifle, the M1 Garand made that sound.
why does my m1 carbine keep dropping my magazine.
Usually 2 causes. First is crudy internally and needs a through cleaning of the mag catch (see other video) or second the detents to the rear of the mag are pushed in.
Brilliant 👍