How to change the drive belt / transmission belt on a John Deere S130 & other 100 Series mowers
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- In this video I show you how to change the drive belt on a John Deere S130. It will be very similar to all the other John Deere 100 series mowers as well as many other mower brands.
Tools needs:
16mm socket
15mm socket
19mm or 3/4" socket
15mm wrench.
Impact- used in video:12v DeWalt DCF 920
You'll need to remove the deck like I've shown in other videos. Then jack the front end up and secure it with either jack stands wheel ramps or in this video I'm using spare Wheels. You also want to make sure the mower cannot move even when you take the e-brake off.
when you go to reinstall the clutch take special note to line up the key way that's inside of the clutch and pulley with the slot on the engine crankshaft. Also while you slide it up make sure the belt does not get in a bind or on the outside of the belt guides around the crank pulley.
I hope this video helps you guys out and makes the job easier for you. Please like subscribe and feel free to comment if you have any questions. I will do my best to answer everyone.
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I ran over a stick that kicked my belt off of the pulley on the transmission. The trick where you can remove the cup holder to get access was exactly what I needed. I was able to get to and remove the stud that keeps the belt in place on that pulley and get it back on. It also keeps you from putting it back on if it comes off.
Yeah that belt guide / bolt is the worst part of doing that job! Glad the video helped
Just had to do this. Miserable experience
Thanks for your video, it really helped. I had to pull that pin on the drive and put my belt back on today. 15mm by the way.......that hurt me, my hands are too big.....but I got it. I had to improvise and make a stub allan wrench to get it back in.....I'm not sure of the size, but you're not getting it out without painstakenly wrenching it out. Took me the better part of hour, but I got big 65 year old hands.
Yeah, that's the worst part of the entire job. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! I had a slipped drive belt on the S130. This helped me ID it and just painstakingly remove then replace that guide bolt to get the belt back in place. 👍
Is my new trans belt supposed to be turning when the parking brake is engaged? It drives fine with power so I dont think it is loose. Maybe too tight? Its the right size.
What mower do you have? Usually on lawn tractors the drive belt will not move when the parking brake is on.
@@Mechanical_Mind d110 HST, 7 years old. Its slipping a lot with the brake on but still enough friction to slow turn the fan. Its on the engine drive shaft pulley so I figure it should move some.
Thanks for the video. F John Deere for making it so tedious and complicated to fix the belt. The transmission side jumped down below the pulley, and now I can't get it back because of that damned stud. I hate John Deere.
That stud is the worst part of the entire job
Did you say it’s 15mm? Maybe I can unbolt that stud. Impossible to see it clearly.
@HenryBLeeNYC yes it's 15mm. I only can get with the open end of a wrench
I was able to get to it after removing the drink tray, as you suggested!! Got it back together and working. Thanks so much!!
My E180 drive belt was in desperate need of replacement and I was able to replace it myself after watching your video. Thank you for the great tips!
Glad it helped!
I modified a closed end 12 pt wrench to loosen the rear belt guide. I welded a large 3/8" washer (you could jb weld one on) on the wrench and then ground an opening. Washer gives a land so you don't have to fuss up and down to get the wrench in the right spot. I also cut the wrench down to give more swing. Once loosened I could get my left hand in there (lying on my right side from the right side of the machine).
so that belt needs to be relatively tight? Im unable to drive up the incline on my lawn anymore and ive noticed that belt is kind of loose to the fan. Ive only got 200 hrs on the mower and its in great condition
Awesome Brother, yet I am not looking forward to doing it. LOL THANKS!!
The worst part getting to that belt guide bolt that is next to the transmission pulley. Thanks for watching
I just watched your video. My dealer replaced the drive belt yesterday. Today after 2 hours of mowing, the belt slipped off and was shredded. I got the mower up and saw that the tech had installed the belt UNDER the parking break steel bar that runs across the mower. Please tell me he screwed up and that is what shredded the belt.
What did that cost you......I had to put my belt on today and figured it would be around $4-500 at the John Deere place. We're ag around here......bad time to get a Deere S100 fixed.
You definitely did it very smooth. I have been fighting my John Deere E-140 for 2 days now and I like how easy you made this look. I have not elevated my front tires but I am working on the ground in my garage so I may elevate my front end now I see how you did that. My cluch pulley is not coming off and I don't use air tools so it will be a fight for me to get the cluch off but I think I can.
That cup holder trick is awesome. We’ll see how this goes.
Fantastic video
I have the s240
And it was exactly the same procedure
Helped a lot
Thank You
would it help to take the back
tire off?
That's what I did.....the cupholder and the tire. The tire is easy.....or mine was.
Thanks for the great tutorial!!
I just finished this procedure. I used a GX20006 belt (bought a 3rd party Antanker Kevlar belt from Amazon). I measured its exterior circumference as 88.5 inches; the spec is 88.9 so it's maybe a touch shorter than spec, although 0.4 " in measurement error is possible too. It's in the ball park however. Even so, it is noticeably larger than the belt that came off by maybe 2 inches but haven't measured this yet. Not sure why the previous belt was shorter?
After putting the belt on, and with the parking brake released so that the belt is fully tensioned in the working position it appears loose to me. I can easily push the side of the belt without the idlers to the side with the idlers, may 3 or 4 inches. The tractor appears to run at full speed, but I am concerned that the belt is too loose. I certainly wouldn't run an automobile fan or alternator belt this loose but maybe this is by design for a transmission drive pulley?
Questions:
1) Too loose?
2) Any way to adjust? Possible to adjust either engine mounts, idler pulley mounts, or transmission mounting position? Possible any of these have slipped?
3) Buy a 1" shorter belt and try again?
4) Continue to use the belt as is just look out if it starts to slip then deal with it?
Thank you.
I'd just keep using it and see if it gives issues.
Those drive belts on lawn tractors still always look too loose to me when fully tight (brake off).
There is a spring that pulls the tensioner arm tight but there is no way to adjust the tension. Unless the spring is worn, rusted or damaged.
@@Mechanical_Mind - Thanks for the input. The tensioner is at maximum, against the stop and taking up maximum slack and still the belt is loose IMO. I fear that when the parking brake is on and the tension is released that the belt is so lose that it may easily come off. It occurs to me that the tensioner shouldn't be at the end of it's travel, but that it should be under spring tension, with the ability of the tensioner to take up some variance like when the belt expands due to heating, or contraction when it's cold. At the end of it's travel against the stop it can't do this.
The old belt is John Deere UC30568, per the John Deere web site for S100 it a substitute for the GX20006, both have specs of 88.9" outer diameter. The old belt measured 87-1/4", so that's 1.65" too short and it's an old belt that likely should have stretched. The tractor has 150 hours on it, and the old belt was in poor shape with lots of cracks and some shredding. What the heck John Deere? Are you secretly making them shorter or is it just poor QC, or perhaps both? Is it a case of "Well, you really should have used OEM John Deere because our 88.9" belts aren't really 88.9", and if you put a third party 88.9" belt on the tractor it won't work right". What the heck?
As I stated earlier, I measured the new Antanker Kevlar belt at 88.5" outside circumference (several measurements), but that appears to be too loose. My conclusion is that 88.9" is too long for this tractor. I'll probably try 87.5" next. This is really annoying to me. A belt that is spec'd at 88.9 should be 88.9, not 87.25. I'll likely have to change the belt again because of this, which is a waste of my time.
Any idea what causes theses belts to slip off? Mine just came off and I didn’t hit anything, but I did just change the deck belt (that did snap from wear and tear) and shortly after the drive belt came off and the mower wasn’t going anywhere. Did I do something wrong?
I've rarely seen a drive belt slip off. They normally break from old age and wear. Or one of the deck belt idlers is damaged, locked up, or wobbling from bad bearings.
th-cam.com/video/4AGlw-HCDuI/w-d-xo.html
The rear trans retaining bolt has a 6mm allen on top. I had to use the 15mm wrench to loosen it, then used the 6mm with a long right angle flex adapter for my drill. Took 5 seconds.
Did you have to remove the fan to access that? Removing the fan looks like a job (small retaining spring clip)
@@darrenjames7686 the fan stays in place. can just barely get the 6mm in between two off the fan blades so you will need a long 6mm. on my 2017 d110 220hrs, the plastic of the fan is still very pliable, not brittle.
Outstanding, have to do this on my S140 soon. You made it easy. Also appreciate your answer on the belt adjustment question below - I was trying to figure out if it could be adjusted but I see you have stated below that it cannot. Muchas Gracias!
Guys, when I replace the clutch, it is always aligned to key but won’t slide up to get the bolt in, why??
Thanks I have same issue when I got to the belt pully on transmission the belt guide does not have a place for a wrench. Instead it has a screw I have no access too! Any idea's?? Thanks ahead of time.
Perfect video! You show how to do it, like a pro! Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video was very helpful, thank you
G100 John deere mower install a drivd be
Super helpful thank you
Help! Gear won't come of the steering shaft and there is a locking nut on the clutch bolt, any suggestions? Thanks!
I normally just take the steering gear nit off then lift up the steering wheel and let the gear fall on the ground. Ofcourse I spary wd40 on the sleeves that the steering shaft goes through.
What model mower are you working on?
@@Mechanical_Mind2021 s140, pinion gear stuck, nut is off, hit it w/wd40 tonight, tried pulling the steering wheel for a while, tried prying it, can't get it to budge, should I apply heat? Seams like I need some type pulling device. Thanks for any ideas!
Got it. Took the steering wheel off. Put the bolt back on the steering wheel and a 2nd bolt. Then I used a hammer puller to pull the steering wheel shaft up and drop the pinion. Finally got the clutch bolt to release w/ pb blaster and impact wrench on high.
Can the drive belt be adjusted?
Hey James, No there is no way to adjust it. The belts can become stretched over time causing it too slip but usually they break from cracks as they get old.