Archery | Arrow Wear & Tear
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- At some point, you will be shafted, nocked out and your efforts will be in vane. MULTI-PUN!
Once you set up your archery gear, you might find yourself going through arrows crazily. Don't fear; this is normal. This video will explain some of the frequent signs of arrow damage and what causes them.
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/ nusensei
My first Robin hood: oh my gosh wow.
My 11th Robin hood : NOOOOOOO!
25th robin hood UGHHHHH
chatterboxfpv solid $30 down the drain lol
Robin hooded a pair of aluminum arrows when I was a kid. mounted em on my wall. xD
Also, quick mention because it happens quite often at our club, particularly with low poundage starter bows.
If you shoot an arrow and it does not fully stick to the target, but instead just kind of hangs down while barely stuck in by the tip, it's a good idea to stop shooting immediately and go retrieve it.
Since the arrow is now hanging, the surface area you (or other archers in the same target) can hit goes up immensely. I can't tell you how many times new archers have unknowingly broke good arrows because of this.
So, if you see it happening, just stop shooting and go retrieve them.
Just don't go to retrieve it while others are shooting
Does anybody else see his body shaking?
GamingRedNeck King This may just be the frame rate I set when rendering the video.
GamingRedNeck King Or I might be the Flash.
NUSensei I thought that my wifi was all screwed up XD
I'm sure I did not eat any mushrooms today, but this had me wondering
@@NUSensei It's not the frame rate itself. I when you see the video frame-by-frame, you can see that frames go like 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 4, 5 - and the next sequence looks the same. Whenever the sixth frame is supposed to appear, the previous-last and last frames are repeated before going to frame 6. Maybe the encoding was buggy?
Still a good explanation, even though it's hard on the eyes. So thank you for all the work of creating it. :)
I have an amusing story about arrow damage. One type of target that the indoor range I go to uses is comprised of layers of sheets of some type of dense polymer foam held together with straps. This type grips the arrows pretty well, but my (somewhat heavy) arrows still get about eight inches or so into the target. One time I pulled one of my arrows out, and it was missing the insert and tip. I got another tip put in immediately (since the range is in the back of an archery shop) and resumed shooting at the same target. As soon as the glue had set and I was using that same arrow, I pulled it out of the target with two tips on it (I'm about 90% certain, given the way the fletchings were worn, that it was the same arrow). I had hit the same spot, and stuck the arrow into my old insert hard enough to pull both out.
Fiberglass arrows can also shed strands of fiberglass if you're grouping too tightly and the arrows are rubbing.
On my first day my arrow also exploded and I was pretty startled. Thank you for putting my mind at ease. Great channel.
I've seen people hitting concrete walls, with the arrow bouncing right back behind the archer, with a flat point. Sometimes the shaft looked ok, sometimes cracked, or split.
By the way, I remember of a very weird accident that happened in 1999, in Portugal. There was an "extreme" sports event where there was a guy playing paintball outdoor in a trees and bushes scenario. He got out of ammo and so he went picking some that were on the ground. He went to a clear green field to pick some more. As he just stepped into that area all of a sudden he felt something striking him in the head. An arrow got across his skull and brain because he stepped in the line of fire of an archery field. People rushed to him and he was conscious and standing on his own feet. He was quite calm and didn't feel that much pain. Then he was sitting waiting for the ambulance with the arrow crossing his head. In the hospital the medical staff was astonished, they had to cut the extremities of the arrow so he could enter the TAC scan machine. On the newspaper there were the pictures of the results with the remaining arrow across his brain, from left to right. No brain injuries whatsoever. The surgeons were very concerned with the possibility of causing injuries and internal bleeding when removing the arrow. The operation went well and the guy survived without any damage beside the small wounds and holes on his skull.
Is there some source I can read on more of this?
Always a good idea to give your arrows and other equipment a visual inspection for damage and wear.
My immediate question is: is your bow tuned? It's essential to get the correct spine rating for your bow. That might be a reason why your shafts get bent.
I suggest you invest in carbon arrows. They're lighter and come out better than aluminiums, especially for a compound. Powerflights are cheap but impressively durable.
This is just a general, more or less, comment for relative beginners about arrow selection and accuracy. So, most of us beginner/intermediates have heard that arrow selection can be an extremely important factor in accuracy and consistency, and I'm now convinced this is very extremely true. I started out using Allen Pro 400 spine carbon arrows (plastic vane fletching) from Big 5 Sporting Goods here in town (convenient) with my 20-30 pound recurve bows. I began getting frustrated because, even though I felt my shots were right on target, my group size was highly variable. I stopped in Performance Archery in San Diego last week and asked them to help me select some proper "tuned" arrows appropriate for my draw length and bow weight. They fixed me up with some feather-fletched, nocked and pointed Easton XX75 Platinum Plus aluminum arrows of 1616 spine. Immediately now I can shoot from twice as far away with half the size groups that I was getting with my overly stiff Allen Pro 400 carbon arrows. Get some tuned arrows, folks! Oh, and I've been shooting for about a month and had my first Robin Hood, an accident, the other day.
Had a nylon arrow rest on the club bow I used to shoot, it loved ripping of the bottom hen fletch with monotonous regularity...
At least I learned how to use the fletching jig as a result!
The "exploding accident" happened to me a couple of days ago: I'm a noobie, practising with a wooden olympic and and shooting geologic carbon "poor men" arrows. I have been told never to shoot the bow empty so when I heard that hollow sound on the bow I though something went wrong. Something hit me on the two fingers but with little damage. at the target an arrow was missing and I found about two third of arrow a couple of meters behind it. the knock and the shaft were a few meter aside the firing line and the arrow was cut as if it was done by a saw, exactly and clean. Someone told me the knock was not properly inserted listening to you it's pretty much the same stuff.
Great video!
I've hit the wood one time at 40m and the point smashed into the shaft leaving the end of the shaft in a flared shape.
Something you forgot to mention is what you can do to prevent wear and tear to some degree. Wraps can be used to help them stick on vanes much tighter than how they would on a regular shaft.
New shooter, I just bought a nice beginner recurve bow! 25# and I'm going to learn proper form. Thanks!
How you doing, did you get more powerful limbs now?
Another useful clip, thank-you.
I have recently set-up an under-cover range ( up to about 8-9m ) for shooting when it's raining. This is much shorter than I normally shoot ( up to 45m ) and as a result I'm only using the lightest bow I have ( a 18lb Snake Bow ) What happened straight away was that my arrows were crowding and I was fearing damage. I intuited to do exactly what you suggested, that is, create multiple aiming points. I'm currently shooting a group of 10 arrows, so I assigned 2 arrows to each of my 5 aiming points, making a game out of seeing how many bulls-eyes I can get...just that it's a "fresh" Bulls-eye each 2 arrows. I think you actually develop a shyness to aim towards what you can see is a "Crowded" aiming point, and that's not a productive thing.
I will add that your feathers can be damaged by dampness ( that's natural feathers ) so don't let them get or remain wet. Also by constantly scraping over your shelf if your nock-point is too low.
I scored a legitimate "Robin Hood" ...that is, one that was in the Bulls-eye, from 45m and the result was fascinating. The rear arrow drilled fully 4" ( 100mm ) into the back of the front arrow....without any splintering or other damage ( other than the front nock seemed to vapourize )...maybe these cheap "Carbon" arrows were actually a Carbon and fiberglass mix?
Shooting with wooden arrows with self-nocks (I have an English longbow, in the classical D-style), I go through a number of arrows when shooting, especially 3D/Field/Swedish hunting-round. Basically if I miss and hit something hard (like a rock behind the target, or the iron bar that anchors the target to the ground), they tend to break off more or less cleanly right behind the tip. That is easily repairable, just put on a new tip. Yes the arrow gets a bit shorter, but I have a short draw-length, and use full-length shafts, so can repair the same arrow 2 or maybe 3 times that way before it gets too short for me to use (it will be stiffer though, so I will have to adjust the aiming.
I have had an arrow break when actually hitting the leg furthest away from me on a 3D-target, at a competition. I think in that case, the oscillation of the arrow, caused the shaft to hit the rest of the animal, or it was something hard inside the leg. Likewise if I hit, but get a glancing shot, that can break the arrow as well, but then that tends to render the shaft useless as it will break more in the middle if I hit just wrong. MOst of the times they will be fine
I can repair damaged self-nocks if they are not too bad, but a lot of arrows gets to the unrepairable pile due to that. Shooting many arrows at the same target, means that sooner or later you WILL damage the ones already in the target. Also have managed to break a few in the new shooting wall at the club, when being sloppy with how I draw them out. In that case it was because the tip got stuck hard, and I got the wrong grip, and just the pressure from my thumb to get a grip powerful enough to take out the arrow was enough to snap the shaft off, making them unrepairable. Downside to using 5/16 shafts in only 35-40 lbs range (the bow is more poweful, but I need that setup to not get the arrow to be too stiff and go way left). Had to go and get a set of pliers to get the rest out the broken arrows out.
So I make 24 new arrows every year, and let's put it this way, there is very little left of the feathers on the arrows after that year due to lots and lots of shooting.
I have not seen an "exploding arrow" but I have seen what happens to a damaged carbon/ali arrow when is doesn't get as far as leaving the bow. This particular arrow ended up in two pieces held together by a strip of carbon fibre.
You had not mentioned that it's a good idea to use Aluminium arrows when shooting during the indoor season as they are relatively cheap and this is when most arrow collisions are likely to occur due to the closer distances and smaller targets.
Carbon arrows are very tough for what we put them through but as you rightly point out, there is a limit. Damage can and does occur and sometimes this damage is not as obvious to the observer as it would be with an aluminium arrow where dents and cracks are much easier to spot. Carbon arrows can sometimes appear perfectly sound with no outward signs of damage, that is, until you shoot them and you get the "exploding arrow" you describe. The best way I know to check for damage to an ali/carbon and full carbon arrow, if you suspect it but cannot see it, such as after hitting a hard object like a target peg, is to flex the arrow, rotating it at the same time so you flex the arrow through 360 degrees of its diameter. if you listen carefully with your ear close to the shaft as you do this and you hear any crackling or creaking at all, the arrow is damaged and should not be shot again. Sometimes this will not be necessary as the fibres will be seen to lift and part away from the core as you flex it and sometimes the arrow will fracture anyway but a good arrow will be able to withstand quite a lot of bending without damage as they are designed to flex during the shot under a lot more load than bending by hand will give them.
I Hope this helpful and good shooting.
+loveryoda the same can apply but the creaking from a wooden arrow could be just because its wood! if you get a creaking bamboo arrow, best to not use it as they will splinter when they break and the splinters will be very sharp!
OMG, In my opinion, this should be one of the first thing you should learn when you start archery. Everybody talks about form and how to chose bow... those are important but safety first. You need to learn how to inspect your arrows and limbs before anything else. When I started learning archery, I was pretty careless with my arrows, and then I walked into my favorite archery shop and the owner has an album on his checkout counter of what can happen to you when your arrows explode at release. I almost shit my pant. Went home and inspect my arrows and what do I know, one of my arrows show a tiny crack on the side. All materials can break but be extra careful with carbon because a lot of the structural damage and not visible. Flex your arrow while rotating 3-4 times, twisted it a couple time before you put it back to your quiver. Also, don't be cheap on your arrows. No amount of money you save on the cheap Chinese carbon arrows on E-bay can equal a trip to the ER. Goes with thick wall aluminum for your starter arrows. You gonna miss a lot starting out and hitting unexpected stuffs can do really bad thing to your carbon arrows.
Stories like these are from compounds and while safety is important and every new archer or hobby shooter should learn to inspect equipment there also doesn't need to be so much fear mongering about the subject
I think it's also more common in compounds because the archers paradox is not present, while the arrow does shake in flight, recurves "wiggle" the arrows a bit more.
I haven't properly wrecked an arrow doing a Robin Hood but did destroy the nock end of an arrow when I accidentally hit it with another.
I've accidentally hit the shaft of one of my arrows with another it left a small hole in the shaft
I've certainly found much more damage with high poundage, hunting compounds - brutal on arrows at my longer draw length. Rest choice and set up is crucial! But, even with recurves, please be aware of the material limitations of aluminium and carbon! Carbon is relatively weak in compression, so both launch and impact stress it considerably. Damage is often invisible and it can fail catastrophically. Aluminium fatigues badly, so over time arrows will weaken and straightening too many times will accelerate their demise! Important to inspect arrows regularly and cull damaged ones. I know they are expensive, but seriously, stay safe!
Have you made a video about "tuning" your bow?
I'm not sure how I could tune my bow to fix this issue.
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I learned not to shoot at something hard the hard way. When I first got my crossbow, I also bought these cheap bolts. I fired two shots at my target, which was placed up against my porch. Both bolts hit the same stud and the heads are still in there. I just used my hatchet to just snap that bolts off but every now and then, I will go look at the two holes.
Shoot a carbon arrow at a cinder block dead-on. I've seen the insert be driven backward 3/4 of the length of the shaft before when it's happened to me.
Always inspect and flex test arrows after every shot. I've learned to do this because I go roving.
Ok.... you just changed my mind. I was going to switch to carbon, but now i am staying with my trusty, fat, heavy aluminums.
Edit to add, I do alot of stump shooting and small game hunting with my bow besides target work. It sounds like the aluminums are more durable than carbons.
Learning to shoot my compound, I had my arm in the way of my strings. Aside from the fact that it really hurt, my arrow missed the foam backing of the target backdrop, went through a steel garage door and almost completely through a piece of 3/4 thick plywood that was behind the door as a safety barrier. The shaft seems fine but all 3 vanes were destroyed.
Good video, and now I'm seasick. Keep up the good work!
You can use hot water or a blowtorch to heat the arrow (or at worst, a candle). You just need enough heat to make the aluminium malleable. Don't worry about melting the arrow; you probably won't have enough heat to actually do that.
"Aluminum arrows bend instead of breaking" ??? I wish CAE X-Calibers did that. One stray shot hit a rock and caused my arrow to explode in to shrapnel for about four inches down the shaft. That arrow was VERY brittle. Now I'm glade to hear that I can use aluminum arrows without safety glasses.
"When you hit something it will go DOOIIINNG" XD
So I was shooting at our local range and one shot I was shooting a carbon arrow. I missed the target completely and hit the brick wall of a shed that was behind the target. The arrow completely exploded. It didn't just fracture in one spot. The whole arrow completely exploded and there was nothing left of it. Only a tiny stub of the arrows remains that I had found.
I had one explode on me when I last shot my Diamond I had two arrows before this and both of them cracked open on the sides I figured it was strange being they only hit faom. That third arrow never left the string in fact the nock was still hanging there after it was all said and done. The arrow tumbled end over end in two entirely separate pieces for about 5 yards. That was my first experience with an out of tune bow which I'm not sure how that even happened because it hadn't been long before when the tune was checked. Fortunately the only injuries suffered that day we're that of the arrows and my pride
prevent arrows from exploding by using solid steel arrows, they are so durable that they don't even fly as fast to protect themselves!
I've never had problems with gold tip for durability, I have also seen that gold tip has some arrows that have lasted people a year with 8 out of the 12 left!
The arrow issue freaks me out quite a bit. Got my gear last Friday, with 6 _Gold Tip Warrior_ arrows.
Two of them have already suffered :(
honestly... make sure when you buy arrows the feathers are in the right alignment.... I bought 12 and 5 were off... constantly hitting my arrow rest causing misflight. Turned them into bare arrows.
Hit a wall at the start of the winter season with my compound indoors using Easton superslams. It blew the inserts out of both ends simultaneously & sent them flying off in different directions lol. Bent the shaft too 🤪
awesome video, thanks. I'm just getting into archery and crossbow'ing. I have 2 compound bows, a cheap "timberwolf indian", and a very nice "Ben Pearson Marauder". I also have 2 compound crossbows, a "wicked Ridge Defender by Ten Point", and a "horton 150". I am just now getting to know about my bolt and arrow choices and options. i watched your full video and subbed. Thanks for the great video and I'll be definately going though your other vids.
Funny that this video showed up to me right when I sat down to glue my loose fletchings back to the shafts
I got one stuck In a tree so hard it took the tip.
Didn't want to harm the tree anymore for the head or the insert. Tore fletchings off going threw plywood styrofoam makes a way better back stop
I've seen aluminium arrow explosion .. one of guys shot it from compound bow from 20m :-), arrow hit large steel bolt from target stand. Front third maybe half of it shattered to pieces like 3-5cm. not safe
Seen a guy shooting with a very fast longbow, 70+ lbs, with aluminium arrows at a 3D-competion (at that time it was legal, now we have to use wooden arrows), and they shattered when he missed and hit rocks...
Stretched nocks can also contribute to a dry fire.
Arrows are the cost of doing business. Ruin an arrow, a good excuse to buy a new one. Lol 😆
I have had bad experiences with Aluminums because they bend after a few hundred shots, is this because I'm too close to the target? I shoot from 15-30 metres away with a compound bow, or is my poundage too high? Or is it the arrows? There's so many variables... I've "Robin Hooded" 4 arrows now, at first it was cool, then after the 3rd one I was so annoyed! This was a very informational and helped me a lot
First, congratulations on your videos. Learned a lot. Thanks. I do have a question. ..how about straightening the slightly bent aluminum arrows like I've seen done? What is your opinion on this? Also, didn't see wooden arrows. What is your opinion on these, and feather fletching. Are they too much of a hassle? Again, thanks for your informative videos.
Straightening aluminium arrows is a normal thing to do. Wooden arrows generally aren't very good (at least, the cheap ones), and the availability of aluminium and carbon arrows makes it unnecessarily to get wooden arrows.
@@NUSensei Unless you are shooting a bow where the competition rules mandates wooden arrows. As for Longbows in 3D/Field-archery according to WA rules... ;)
I just ordered a set of customised wraps. I'll do a video on those when I get them.
Always good vids from you sensei. Thankyou.
also an X10 or A/C/E is very expensive and it hurts.... when you Robin Hood it
when one of my plastic fetching comes of I get super glue and stick it back on
If it's a slight bend, you can heat up the shaft and straighten it by hand. If it's a significant bend, that's pretty much gone.
Btw, my new stabs arrived today. I'll complete the stabiliser video when I get a day when it's not gale-force winds.
i got really really lucky yesterday i was sighting in my bow for hunting and my sight was loose and i didn't realize my sight was loose and my shot was way off. the arrow went through plywood and tin siding of the building i was shooting in... arrow is fine just scratched to crap
Nice video :D I was using the Cartel plastic rest, black,and I had a lot of plastic residue on my bow shaft which was easy to see because my bow is white. It was the rest being grinned by the arrows, is that normal?
In your opinion,What is the minimum weight arrow for a 45# bow,To not have the effect of dry firing.
+NUSensei Can damaged feathering be repaired or restored by any means? Any tips on how to do that and what materials to use?
robin hoods rare haha two guys at my club managed to do it 4 times between them within the last two weeks at 18m one of which was using pin knocks. both shoot recurve
Once at practise I Robbin hooded some of my carbon arrows. The new kids around me were all exited and I was mad at the inconvenience it caused. I got an earful from coach about not using a 3 spot target. Not as fun a day as some would think.
Could you demon-straight this in a later video . Would be afraid of melting the arrow completely trough.
Thanks
“Arrows are meant to be shot at something soft” yeah, like human flesh and also for hunting. Imagine how sturdy arrows and especially crossbow bolts had to be to make it through things like chainmail and plate armour. Those crossbow bolts used to be almost half an inch thick! Imagine getting that through your leg.... then fighting through it. Medieval soldiers were witch burning badasses lmao. Why have peace and make actual technical advancements when you can constantly be at war?
Edit: I have no idea what the point of this comment was
Theory on your arrow 4 piece split: you might somehow overdraw and tip of arrow dropped against riser - so arrow got stuck between bowstring and riser ( like in hydralicpress )
Impossible. I use a clicker. I can't overdraw and shoot with a clicker.
So far my theory is getting too light of a shaft. Minor damage (if the arrow wasn’t too light to began with) from hitting a shaft will become exasperated with subsequent shots causing internal damage until the arrow couldn’t even handle the stress of acceleration.
I didn’t see it mentioned in detail on this or the arrow selection video that arrows naturally flex during flight. Balancing the flex of the arrow for the draw weight to both protect the arrow, and reasonably quickly allow it to stabilize is important. If the arrow starts out or becomes too weak from prior damage instead of the flex protecting the arrow, it will crack from the inside.
I personally don’t recommend Anton’s and the fairly common practice of flex testing arrows though (especially carbon). Carbon, aluminum, and fiberglass all have low abilities to recover from repeative flexing. I assume weight is biggest factor why nobody makes Chromoly or spring steal. Titanium is probably cost prohibitive (oh you’ld Be crying over a Robin Hood all right). Sure flex testing will tell you if an arrow is damaged, but for flex testing to be effective it has to bring the arrow to typical (or more) flex and if that flex is doing damage, it will only serve to shorten the life of the arrow and it can still break on that final shot.
I do acknowledge that even with a premium target designed to slow an arrow the best (deep penetration) the greater shock of hitting the target is more likely to be the ‘straw on the camels back’, then flex testing or release shock.
Take it or leave it, just my 2 cents of material experiences. Mostly from bicycle frame flex vs archery, but I think I have a handle on the significant differences.
Ooh I shoot aluminium arrows and I have a few benders , do you know how to straighten them or have something to straighten them
best bigineer arrow for competition target archery my bow pound is 32
Thanks for your videos :)
I'm starting with archery and the arrow spine is driving me crazy. Talked to a coach at my archery club and I'm probably starting with a #28 recurve bow for myself. I've checked some charts and for a #28 bow and 31" arrow they suggest around 500-600 spine. And here you are with a #40 bow and saying that a proper arrow for you is around 700? If that's right, who are the 340 and 300 spines for?
Should I be looking at 1000 or 1200 spines?
Couple of things:
I'm using Easton A/C/Es in this video (and now X10s), and I have a relatively short draw weight, dropping me to around mid 30s in poundage. What I need for my bow won't correlate to what you need for yours. As for the
What about splits in plastic feather style fletching?
goolash1000 like little gaps? They still fly well
well thanks for the info. i was looking to see about getting into archery as a casual, low cost thing but after watching this i know i cant afford it. good puns though.
Archery isn't that expensive, depending on what you get and where you want to go with it. There is a substantial starting cost in getting all of your gear together (for a recreational recurve bow with arrows, you're looking at around $300). However, there aren't many ongoing costs unless you have a habit of buying additional items.
Twig 46 After the initial investment (buying the bow + required gear), doing archery as a hobby is actually very cheap. I buy arrows once a month for maybe 30$ max and I'm having incredible amounts of fun and getting more accurate slowly but surely.
your 100% right,damm wood backboard
It only a Robin Hood if the first arrow is in the center or bullseye of the target when the second arrow hits the back of it! If this happens anywhere else its just an accident.
......No..
Technically the community allows non-bull, but I agree with you Steve. Unless it’s on purpose it’s not the spirit of trying to do it like the story, when there’s no extra room on the target for more points.
That said, nodays competiton rules allow people to protect their expensive equipment, so nobody is really going to want to waste their money on a status. That makes Robin Hoods all accidental or neglecting to clear the target. Either way not anything to really brag about compared to the loss and wasn’t that really the point of bringing it up?
keep the broken arrows, harvest them for parts and suddenly you have half the broken arrows.
I clicked this video for the epic pun. I cannot give enough likes.
My mate just got his first bow recently and after 3 days one arrow exploded and went through his hand
"practising at home..." it is illegal here in Singapore
ive got a bunch of broken arrows in my woods, no need to save em
Is there a way to "tune" my cheap Barnett youth bow to stop my vanes from warping?
Because the youth bows have no elevated flipper rest, vaned arrows will never come out right. Using feathers will solve that.
speaking of arrows, I've already made the mistake of ordering a 45lbs bow and carbon arrows that are recommended for 40lbs or below - so can I tune my bow to not ruin the arrows
That's a big gap, but it may be possible. Cutting the arrow shorter and using lighter points may stiffen the dynamic spine.
@@NUSensei I'll try silencing the bow and hopefully get it a little closer to the safe for the arrow poundage
3:45-3:50 "Something you might wanna do is to actually have different target spots on your butt"
xD xD xD
I did robin hood accidentally on 20 metres with barebow recurve.
I know its 2019 and the video was made in 2013 but just have to say that I was firing a carbon arrow and it hit a cinder block behind a target and the tip was pushed a little bit into the arrow making a sort of a small blooming formation and I was wondering if its common
Ahahaha the multi pun killed me
the robin hood thing happened to me twice :'( 3 arrows gone......
My arrows dont fly straight and My vanes are still good no rips does anybody know what is happening
archer's paradox
There are a lot of variables going into it. Could be a problem with how your rest is set. You could also just have poor aim. I'd suggest speaking to a professional in person about the issue.
Doing RobinHood Shot…….!!!😲
But at What Cost…..???😐🙄
The place that I go to replace broken arrows for free so
I took my first arrow first and it weighed nothing then I shot the plank of an old bed and it went through it 🤣
Ive been trying to shoot beer bottles
Ruining your carbon arrows... :'(
The video is kinda freaky to look at, with this weird instability thing.
Why doesn't everyone just get screw in arrow tips, Than they wouldn't fall out
Screw-in tips come loose, and if they don't, the inserts can come out (though generally unlikely). Points are more often lost from being embedded in target frames rather than regular usage (in which case, it's a bad glue-job).
+NUSensei I've never understood why arrows use plastic fletchings. their really cheap and within the first few shots the get torn off of the shaft. for that reason I buy arrows that have feathers that simply pass threw the arrow rest without damaging the veins.
I am currently testing out some cheap Allen eliminators with plastic fletching and i've currently run them through a 50 pound bow off the shelf well over 200 times with no tearing and minimal damage to the fringe of the fletching
So you are exaggerating pretty badly
i hate robin hoods. And my arrows are expensive so im far from happy when it happens.
This probably is not the case of yours, but this video demonstrates how dangerous it can be if we are using a wrong arrow...th-cam.com/video/96KGWC0PB6s/w-d-xo.html (watch from 6:20)
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Accept Jesus Christ as your Lord and Savior and you will be saved. John 3:16 (share the good news of the gospel around the world!) Have a wonderful day/night, may the LORD bless you all, and farewell!,.,,,,,,
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....
Thanks