Still the same as I was I was taught in school,I also mark my distributor mount bolts and yellow mark the notches so I can see better, I was hoping to see you use a cup of water and spin the distributor here, old trick but it does work and get ya close
Ive seen everyone put their finger on the plug hole, i was always told to toss a Philips head in and once it stops moving see when it starts to drop back down and back it up about half way to get it almost right in the middle
Using just the screwdriver only gives you TDC, putting your finger on the plug hole verifies the compression stroke as mentioned in the video BOTH are important if you don't do the compression step you can be a full rotation out and your vehicle will not run ... thank you for watching
Thank you for the tip. I had someone remove my distributor without putting it at TDC beforehand, when i went to set new distributor, it would not seat all the way down, i realized it was the oil pump shaft i had to move, thought i had it moved correctly but now I'm way off... My timing mark is about 1" to the left of the reference pointer when using timing light. Which way should i move oil pump shaft to get that closer? Sorry if confusing. Any advice will help. Keep up the good videos. We all need tips and tricks from someone who knows what they're doing.
First question is what year and vehicle are you working on? On some of the older vehicles you need to disconnect a wire to set the timing with a timing light. A link below to a video I made about that ... thank you for watching th-cam.com/video/HnMbnoEmzeU/w-d-xo.html
I have a mustang 2000 and when I changed my harmonic balancer it started misfiring , giving me a po305 code. I did not align the harmonic balancer since I didn’t know this was a thing. Do you think aligning the harmonic balancer and the distributor would solve my problem? Thank you.
Great video! Did everything you did but my distributor’s button won’t point at 6. If I sit it flush in the engine the button is off by 18 degrees pointing towards the truck. I’ve checked cylinder 1 to make sure my screwdriver is pushed out and and it is, so it’s a TDC. What I’m doing wrong? Bad part?
No problem. I think I’am. The harmonic line is aligned with the nipple with the groove and the piston is is pushing put on cylinder 1. So my screwdriver can’t go in. You got any suggestions what it might be or what should I try? Thanks for your feedback. I appreciated.
@@thomasreyes3523 if you come to TDC on compression put your finger on the spark plug hole and it should blow your finger off the hole. That's the best way to double check
Hello. Quick question. I have a 1981 Chevy G20 van with a 350. Driving home it started popping and backfiring through the carb. I replaced the carb, plugs, wires, distributer and cap. Still backfiring through carb. Idles fine even rev a little. I do hear a little chugging through the exhaust. But to much gas and it starts popping and backfiring again. I hear a little tick on the passenger side as well. I'm thinking timing maybe. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Backfiring through the carb is most of the time plugs or wires or the timing. So yes check your timing, I always check the timing after a distributor R&R. Hope this helps and thank you for watching
So after you set cylinder #1 and it’s top dead and your harmonic balancer is off a bit off with the mark. Do you just adjust the distributor rotor to the center of the mark as well? Is that how you fix it?
line up your lines at the hormonic balancer first. Then install the distributor and depending on how old your engine is either you adjust the distributor with the help of a timing light or the vehicles PCM will do it automatically for you. Hope this helps and thank you for watching
@@cherenkovsradiation4990 on the distributor it should say 6 or 8 and that's at TDC if it like 90s or older it should point towards cylinder 1 and you'll need a timing light and adjust the distributor as needed and don't forget to unplug the signal wire to the computer when setting the timing
Yes it will this is more of a short quick and dirty video of how to do that lol. In the link below I have a more detailed video on all of it for a 91 suburban if you like to watch that ... thank you for watching th-cam.com/video/HnMbnoEmzeU/w-d-xo.html
Some balancers only have one line some have two or more little ones. But the first line when you are close or you know you are at TDC that's the one you want and mark that with a paint marker or something like that ... hope this helps and thank you for watching
I have a 93 s10 with a 2.8l. I installed a new distributor without setting to TDC. Would I need to remove set to TDC and remove and reinstall distrubutor to have the button point to #1cyl?
set your vehicle to TDC and then see where your distributor is at and pull it slight up and move it to cylinder #1 ... thank you for watching hope it helps
@@CountryMileGarage sorry to bother again. My CEL won't come on with the key on, I checked the bulb and it was blown, put a known good bulb and it still won't come on. I looked at the pin connector for the ecm, MIL circuit and it does not get any power or ground
@@Marquez_0607 I'm going to need more info on this vehicle. Like did this happen over night is the truck been sitting for a very long time. Or did you buy it like this ?
@@Marquez_0607 because we can be looking at multiple problems or just one. You can have a bad main relay a blown or missing fuse a broken wire or even a bad ecm
@@CountryMileGarage I bought the truck with a very rough idle, found out it was only shooting from 1 injector. Replaced the injector, still no pulse on one of them. Read that it could be the ICM under distributor cap, found the connector was broken and is not replaceable. Replaced entire distributor, went to crank and it just cranks no start, no fuel from even the good injector that was working. Got the service manual out and stated to check if the CEL turns on while in acc mode. No CEL. Next step was to disconnect ecm connectors and check ckt 440 and ckt 439 to ground with a test light. Test light illuminated on both circuits indicating either bad ecm ground, faulty ecm or bad connection.
What vehicle are you working on ? And are you sure you are on TDC on compression ? And does your distributor have that mark on it ? Thank you for watching
@@Motor1999x check this video out. Doing a distributor and plugs on a 91 Chevy big block. Click the link below. Hope this helps getting you going th-cam.com/video/HnMbnoEmzeU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cIMA0cdcdWIFbLaP
![เปิดใจ พี่ญา คนรุม หลังทัวร์ลง หนักสุดในชีวิต!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2-OJZRtclro/mqdefault.jpg)
Still the same as I was I was taught in school,I also mark my distributor mount bolts and yellow mark the notches so I can see better, I was hoping to see you use a cup of water and spin the distributor here, old trick but it does work and get ya close
never heard of the cup of water trick Anthony ... thank you watching
I did not know about that marker on the distributor itself. These setups are really popular in boats so this was a big help. Thanks
Thank you and thank you for watching
One time I moved the slot for the distributor drive pin on accident and it was a pain in my ass to get it lined back up. Thanks for sharing
Thank you for watching Tyler merry Christmas and a happy new year
@@CountryMileGarage merry Christmas and happy new year to you too Theo!
Ive seen everyone put their finger on the plug hole, i was always told to toss a Philips head in and once it stops moving see when it starts to drop back down and back it up about half way to get it almost right in the middle
Using just the screwdriver only gives you TDC, putting your finger on the plug hole verifies the compression stroke as mentioned in the video BOTH are important if you don't do the compression step you can be a full rotation out and your vehicle will not run ... thank you for watching
Thank you for the tip. I had someone remove my distributor without putting it at TDC beforehand, when i went to set new distributor, it would not seat all the way down, i realized it was the oil pump shaft i had to move, thought i had it moved correctly but now I'm way off... My timing mark is about 1" to the left of the reference pointer when using timing light. Which way should i move oil pump shaft to get that closer? Sorry if confusing. Any advice will help. Keep up the good videos. We all need tips and tricks from someone who knows what they're doing.
First question is what year and vehicle are you working on? On some of the older vehicles you need to disconnect a wire to set the timing with a timing light. A link below to a video I made about that ... thank you for watching
th-cam.com/video/HnMbnoEmzeU/w-d-xo.html
I have a mustang 2000 and when I changed my harmonic balancer it started misfiring , giving me a po305 code. I did not align the harmonic balancer since I didn’t know this was a thing. Do you think aligning the harmonic balancer and the distributor would solve my problem? Thank you.
Most likely it will the harmonic balancer with the markings would make it a lot easier the set the timing right ... thank you for watching
Great tip thanks for sharing brother, Good Morning ☕ 🔧
Good morning to you as well ... thank you for watching 👍
Great video! Did everything you did but my distributor’s button won’t point at 6. If I sit it flush in the engine the button is off by 18 degrees pointing towards the truck. I’ve checked cylinder 1 to make sure my screwdriver is pushed out and and it is, so it’s a TDC. What I’m doing wrong? Bad part?
Are you sure you are on TDC on compression ? It's a very common mistake ... thank you for watching
No problem. I think I’am. The harmonic line is aligned with the nipple with the groove and the piston is is pushing put on cylinder 1. So my screwdriver can’t go in. You got any suggestions what it might be or what should I try? Thanks for your feedback. I appreciated.
@@thomasreyes3523 if you come to TDC on compression put your finger on the spark plug hole and it should blow your finger off the hole. That's the best way to double check
Set one of those vortec distributors wrong,get a P1345 code as well getting the scan tool out to set it
That's right Walter ... thank you for watching
Hello. Quick question. I have a 1981 Chevy G20 van with a 350. Driving home it started popping and backfiring through the carb. I replaced the carb, plugs, wires, distributer and cap. Still backfiring through carb. Idles fine even rev a little. I do hear a little chugging through the exhaust. But to much gas and it starts popping and backfiring again. I hear a little tick on the passenger side as well. I'm thinking timing maybe. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Backfiring through the carb is most of the time plugs or wires or the timing. So yes check your timing, I always check the timing after a distributor R&R. Hope this helps and thank you for watching
So after you set cylinder #1 and it’s top dead and your harmonic balancer is off a bit off with the mark. Do you just adjust the distributor rotor to the center of the mark as well? Is that how you fix it?
line up your lines at the hormonic balancer first. Then install the distributor and depending on how old your engine is either you adjust the distributor with the help of a timing light or the vehicles PCM will do it automatically for you. Hope this helps and thank you for watching
Nice video bro
Thank you Ed means a lot coming from you sir
Does the distributer need to be turned to face number 1 cylinder?
Depends on what you are working on ... thank you for watching
@@CountryMileGarage same engine just older model
@@cherenkovsradiation4990 on the distributor it should say 6 or 8 and that's at TDC if it like 90s or older it should point towards cylinder 1 and you'll need a timing light and adjust the distributor as needed and don't forget to unplug the signal wire to the computer when setting the timing
@@cherenkovsradiation4990 I did a video on that as well
Does this work for a 1991 chevy s10 i just recently did a head replacement
Yes it will this is more of a short quick and dirty video of how to do that lol. In the link below I have a more detailed video on all of it for a 91 suburban if you like to watch that ... thank you for watching
th-cam.com/video/HnMbnoEmzeU/w-d-xo.html
@@CountryMileGarage alrighty cool thanks man
The first Iine on the balancer ?
Some balancers only have one line some have two or more little ones. But the first line when you are close or you know you are at TDC that's the one you want and mark that with a paint marker or something like that ... hope this helps and thank you for watching
I have a 93 s10 with a 2.8l. I installed a new distributor without setting to TDC. Would I need to remove set to TDC and remove and reinstall distrubutor to have the button point to #1cyl?
set your vehicle to TDC and then see where your distributor is at and pull it slight up and move it to cylinder #1 ... thank you for watching hope it helps
@@CountryMileGarage sorry to bother again. My CEL won't come on with the key on, I checked the bulb and it was blown, put a known good bulb and it still won't come on. I looked at the pin connector for the ecm, MIL circuit and it does not get any power or ground
@@Marquez_0607 I'm going to need more info on this vehicle. Like did this happen over night is the truck been sitting for a very long time. Or did you buy it like this ?
@@Marquez_0607 because we can be looking at multiple problems or just one. You can have a bad main relay a blown or missing fuse a broken wire or even a bad ecm
@@CountryMileGarage I bought the truck with a very rough idle, found out it was only shooting from 1 injector. Replaced the injector, still no pulse on one of them. Read that it could be the ICM under distributor cap, found the connector was broken and is not replaceable. Replaced entire distributor, went to crank and it just cranks no start, no fuel from even the good injector that was working. Got the service manual out and stated to check if the CEL turns on while in acc mode. No CEL. Next step was to disconnect ecm connectors and check ckt 440 and ckt 439 to ground with a test light. Test light illuminated on both circuits indicating either bad ecm ground, faulty ecm or bad connection.
I have done all of what your video suggests but the bug will not set at the number one potion no matter what I do it doesn't line up need help
What vehicle are you working on ? And are you sure you are on TDC on compression ? And does your distributor have that mark on it ? Thank you for watching
It's a 1991 Chevy Caprice 350 5.7 lt V8 no markings and from where the gage is between the water pump it's on Tdc 0 out
@@Motor1999x check this video out. Doing a distributor and plugs on a 91 Chevy big block. Click the link below. Hope this helps getting you going
th-cam.com/video/HnMbnoEmzeU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cIMA0cdcdWIFbLaP
My bad there are no markings on the distributor
@@Motor1999x watch the video above and it'll set you up. With this your distributor rotor needs to point towards cylinder #1
Theo 👍
I know for a seasoned mechanic like yourself this is old news lol
@@CountryMileGarage always enjoy watching & you never know what tricks others may know..
@@gilmansgarage6341 thank you and very true ... I just try to help a person that might get into a bind and if this helps my job is done lol
I took the distributor out without setting to 0 what do I do
Set the engine on TDC on compression and set the distributor on 0 and put it together ... thank you for watching
@@3l.chino.cochino no problem bud this is why I do it, to help people and inspire them to work on their own vehicles
@@CountryMileGaragehow do I know where 0 is I only see 6 and 8
@@3l.chino.cochino what vehicle are you working on ?
@@CountryMileGarage a 1500 wt
Fasted?
thank you for watching
Zsa can do it better
I believe it ... thank you for watching