Polymer Capacitors replacement for old Pentium 4 Motherboard
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2024
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Great way too save vintage hardware! Great video Mr. Phil.
recapping guideline
- make sure they're low esr (it will go boom if not)
- make sure they're low esr (it will go boom if not)
- make sure they're low esr (it will go boom if not)
- match capacitance rating
- meet/exceed temperature rating
- meet/exceed voltage rating(few exceptions)
* doubling up 2 standard caps in parallel is a ghetto way to get low esr cap replacement in a pinch(you're still adding capacitance... 1000uF+100uF = 1100uF, so on so forth:P)
2 second how to:
1) add rosin core solder to lead of capacitor(under side of the board; you want a 1-2 mm diameter ball;a blob of solder, more solder than the final outcome is ok! just becareful with other components that maybe near by), bend cap a bit so the heated lead comes out a bit
2) add rosin core solder to 2nd lead, similar idea and repeat till it comes out completely
3) grab new cap(do not cut leads)
4) warm up positive side, and place cap's positive leg in
5) similar idea for negative lead
6) finish up, cleanup, cut leads/etc
* by leaving the leads at full length the goal is to hopefully get them to grab some of the extra solder without over doing it; at some point the caps leads should move freely till finishing/cleaning up
** I avoid using soldering wick to remove the solder as I've found that if the manufacturing process of the board wasn't great it may lead to bad contact even if the bottom pad is soldered properly or worse yet one side of the through hole gets enough heat to melt the solder but the other doesn't; this is the source of most of the headaches of dealing with recapping:P
*** heat up solder with solder on the tip of the soldering iron rather than the actual soldering iron(this makes life easier in soldering just about everything!)
** if one cap is bulged on a board replace all caps of the same series/rating; they're usually also dead or on their way out:P
**** make sure they're low esr (it will go boom if not)
side note: when recapping a board just for the sake of recapping note there is a risk that it will not boot ever again!! not all boards like solid caps or newer lower esr caps(to low can sometimes be a bad thing); I'm a bit fan of Panasonic FM, FC, FJ series......
Maybe a little to late, but thank you so much for the information.
Nice
Years ago a company I contracted with had about 50 Dell Optiplex 745 PCs begin to have capacitor failures just outside of warranty. Dell was of no help. I ended up resoldering new caps onto all of those Dells. After the first few, it didn't take that long to do each one.
Normally this would've been a ridiculous repair on a modern PC but we already had an annual fixed fee contract so it really only cost them the price of the caps.
Those Dells ran rock solid for years after that
This brings back nighmares of the bad cap fiasco beween 04-08, So many dead tv's laptops, stereo's, I mean I welcomed the business but after your 6,000th repair on something else for the same issue you start to go a little crazy lol
Actually, it started on 1999.
Thanks for the shout-out, Phil! You're the best ;) Appreciate it!
Awesome video, as always! Such an inspiration for my own projects!
Have a great day! Cheers! :)
Came here to look for this. Top work all round :-D
You're welcome, I like using racing games as B-Roll, there is little to learn or figure out :)
Yeah! Indeed ;)
I really need one of those desoldering guns. I work on audio electronics and that looks soooo much better than a solder pull.
I have a Hakko 808 desoldering pump. One of the best purchases I've ever made for repair work. It's night and day difference from the other options. When you desolder your first component and it falls right out, you know you can't go back
Never seen this tools, looks amazing, warm the soldering and suck to remove the material? - Thanks
The reason you want to replace vented or bulging capacitors even if the system is working is because of the stress they cause to the circuit. While the motherboard "works", it doesn't mean that it's fine.
Bad capacitors can act like resistors or even shorts and become electrically leaky. This puts lots of stress on components both upstream and downstream of them like heavy current draw and can lead to fried VRMs, other passive components like diodes, resistors and even ICs.
I've seen bad capacitors cause mosfets and ICs to explode, take out zener diodes and burn holes in PCBs.
If you have a bad capacitor in a parallel bank of them, you should replace all of them as others will have been insulted by that failure or could be silently failing themselves and now showing any physical symptoms.
Nice soldering gun. I may have to look into one.
As an electronics technician with a BS degree and 10+ years experience in repairing boards: There is incorrect information in this video. 1.) DO NOT REDUCE THE CAPACITANCE! Always use the exact same value and type of capacitor as originally designed. Unless you are an electrical engineer and have access to the schematic you are playing russian roulette. The designed capacitance is required for the correct ripple filtering and dwell time when a load hits. 2.) 2200uF is 2200uF does not matter the capacitor type. 3.) DO NOT CHANGE CAPACITOR TYPE TO POLYMER. The original cheap electrolytic ones lasted 20 years, quality ones will last another 20+ years with ease. 4.)You can replace a capacitor with a higher voltage rated one meaning you could have used 12V rated capacitors where your board had 6.3V ones. Never replace a capacitor with one rated lower. 5.) ESD protection should always be used. Again playing with fire otherwise. I've seen a lot of people claim DOA when it was likely an ESD event.
With that being said, maybe we need to team up and show the correct way to repair a motherboard.
I am replacing electrolytic caps with poly caps. That's why you can reduce the uF, got to do with lower ESR.
After bricking my board while using expensive half the capacitance polymer caps I have to say I agree with Emil's tips :)
I have to agree with Emil , I also am an Electronics Technician on a electronics factory line , I also have over 15 years of experience in electronics micro-soldering with 6 re-certification certificates and without any disrespect to Phil, Emil is right .. don't get me wrong I am huge Phil Fan .. but I am also a Soldering and electronics coach on the factory line .
@@philscomputerlab You're correct, but not for the reasons you'd think. There are some motherboards that have blank spots where caps would have been. In that case, yes, you can use lower capacitance caps, but you have to use more to effectively get the same capacitance and slightly lower ESR. Another bonus is that you end up stressing them less, probably giving them a higher life span. Also, when someone says they are an electronic engineer and they've been doing capacitor replacements for 10+ years, it's probably a good idea to listen to them. It's their livelyhood, after all.
@Emil Davis I asume you are not recomending changing from classic electrolytic to Poly because of the leakage current. I believe in the case of the power regulation when we are talking about currents beyond 10Amps a couple of mA leak won't make a difference and won't stress the regulator at all. Also in the case of the power regulation when talking about the capacitance of the filtering section the rule has always been the more the better.
About the capacitor being of higher voltage yes it is kinda ok but not of too much higher voltage cause capacitors also need a minimum voltage to operate if the voltage is too low from the part designed voltage the capacitor might not exhibit capacitane at all or have much less capacitance.
A good rule is also to charge capacitors for 10-20min with a 1kOhm resistor attached to them in sereis before instalation because if they stayed in storage for too long after manufacturing the first time when they are charged afterwards they will exhibit huge leakage current in the first moments that might damage any component before or after them and also the capactior itself might end in smoke.
@PhilsComputerLab - lower ESR doesn't mean that you need to lower the capacitance you might get with it but it will be better to be the same or even higher when talking about power filtering.
OMG what a coincidence. I had a cap on my htpc explode and had to do my first "repair" job, and the day after i get it fixed this shows up in my feed. xD
IRNatman I experienced the same last year. Used Pentium 4 board, powered it on, and BANK, one cap blew its top :D I replaced them straight away, I believe they were the VRM in caps, 16V 3300 uF.
I have replaced some Capacitors on some motherboards as well as repairing a LCD that stopped working that (turned out to be 2 blown caps in the power supply) replaced them all am everything works again!! I love this video it shows to viewers that you can fix your old pc parts :D and for cheap! I think combined to fix everything cost me less then $20 CAD :D
Haha. Mine was only a 1800uF 6.3v. I was innocently sitting across the room (pc wasn't even getting used) and I smelt that unmistakeable smell. I ran around the room trying to figure out what was causing it then I ripped the cord out of the pc, popped open the side panel and was blasted in the face by that smell. I was upset, then I noticed the popped cap. After some hours of research and a few days waiting on the replacement cap to get here, I fixed it right up and am so relieved. xD
nice to see it worked, I got one board of mine recapped with polys, same specs, but the board is bricked. I have no idea how it could not work
Quick solder tip Phil. Hold the gun and board still and only wiggle the capacitor as heat is applied. Once the does wiggle free then use then activate the gun to remove the solder. Also solder flux is your friend!! If you wiggle the board or gun you can damage the land areas.
Next time I'll have something interesting and valuable, I'll change the caps like this for sure :D
I’d love some more content about polymodding.
Did this to my old college gaming board (socket 939) that got handed down to my pops. It died several years later so we replaced the capacitors with new ones and it boot up like magic. The rig is still going strong as my WinXP retro gaming rig now, camouflaged inside a customized Dell PE 840 case. =)
Gus Cantu Nice. What sort of caps did you use?
Those new capacitors looks Sick and Nice on them old motherboards. Great Vid Bro.
I've done a few cap jobs in the past on older boards, but I usually just replace the bad cap/s with as close to the exact same cap/s that came on the board, but I'll for sure have to consider Polymer caps next time in place of electrolytic caps.
nice, I wasn't sure if you could replace the old caps with polimer caps, great news for those of us with old failing hardware
very nice video as always.. I just love the channel!
keep doing these great videos :)
Greetings from Germany
Thanks and great video Phil, I love to see a video where you explain the soldering because i am thinking to get some old motherboards recapped that are going bad.
Well, like I hinted at in the video, I'm really not a soldering expert. But now watching it again, I could have shown desoldering and soldering a single capacitor in full detail. That's maybe something for another video :)
I have recapped some motherboards, mostly Dell. It's a bit difficult without a Desoldering gun, I had to use a soldering station with adjustable temperature. And I also have to add some new solder on the old soldering to heat it up easier and removing the old capacitors.
Thank you for that movie, I thought that desolder capacitors was harder, now I replaced capacitor with broken leg on my Radeon 9550 and I also bought pomyler capacitor. After that I think about to get some mainboards and do that more.
That desoldering gun looks like mine but has a bit of a different pump on the back of it. Mine doesn't have that extra clear bit. I'm not sure about polymer caps, although the brands you chose are fine. I've seen them things pop and leak just like traditional electrolytic caps. I've got a few video cards around the store here that did that, so that's how I know of such things :) I frankly didn't know they did that, until well, I had to replace those video cards.
I have two desoldering guns, one I bought myself and it was too weak, doesn't suck much. This one is stronger, double pump action, and really makes a difference.
wow i am amazed swapping caps does work and even with lower farads caps than the original works
i could imagine the same can be done on GPUs
Man I might have to try this.
Ditto, I've got an old Intel DG31PR in need of a cap replacement.
If those were the CPU VRM, I think Vcore was a lot lower than the 6.3V caps.
For recapping a motherboard, there are generally 4 voltages to consider:
12V (will be carrying 16V caps)
5V (probably 6.3V caps, if 10V, can be lowered to 6.3)
3.3V (might be 6.3V elecs - if you know it's 3.3V can switch to 4V poly)
Core V & RAM V - depends, RAM V will be too high to use 2.5V poly on older systems, but pretty sure the LGA775 P4 was low enough for those)
You've done a really proper job there!
Clean desolder & solder work.
I really can't fault you on anything without nitpicking. :D
Agree on the desolder (which sems pretty easy with that tool) but we didn't really see the soldering job. ;)
The caps he put in were crooked as hell. No pro would do such a slob job.
Paul Frederick aren't you a cheerful bugger.
What does my demeanor have to do with anything? I've assembled electronics professionally along with other pros and I'm just saying no one would put work out like that. We'd have taken the time to align the parts. You do that by tacking one leg, then adjusting it, then soldering the other leg and going back and flowing the tacked side. Sure it takes a little longer but that's the proper way to do it. Not having parts sticking off a board at all angles. That's sloppy work.
Paul Frederick And Phil isn't a professional. How did your first soldering jobs look like hmm?
Cool video.
I recap my own boards but tbh decent electrolytics will prob outlast the board anyway (crap ones have lasted over ten on that board!) so haven't messed with poly modding.
Great video, Phil! One should always confirm the polarity on the board before removing the capacitors (or check non removed capacitors), as not all brands follow the standard of white/painted side = negative. On Asus and ASRock boards it is/was backwards, the white side is positive! I wish I had good capacitors easily available and at a reasonable price in my country, I have to use either crappy new capacitors or good old, used ones recovered from dead electronics... Even crappy low ESR capacitors are so expensive here that recapping an old board would be costlier than buy another one. But it should be noted that components from the Pentium to Pentium 4 era are *generally* dirt cheap here and usually thrown to the trash, where most of my collection comes from (while newer stuff that is thrown away in other countries is still in use and very expensive here)...
Why do you need only about half the capacitance with the polymer caps?
It's something I read online when researching.
yeah, I guess you could get away with it 'if' the ESR of the new caps was much lower than the old ones. I would rather see the dif on an O-scope and check the temps of the fets before committing to it for most things that need clean power at the amount of current most CPUs need these days.
If you use a low ESR cap you can get away with it to a point. That being said I prefer to go with what ever value I'm replacing.
Depends on the application. Older boards of the cheap variety sometimes used a single large value capacitor rather than multiple lower values in parallel to save on cost. In a situation like this, you don't really want to go down in capacitance as it can cause problems.
But low ESR is not a substitute for capacitance, I don't know where that half capacitance nonsense comes from, other than the fact that high value polymer capacitors are sometimes 5 times the cost of a normal electrolytic and it's to save on price.
@@GGigabiteM Yeah... 'half the capacitance is ok' is not based in any reality, short of the fact that higher capacitance is correlated with lower esr, but that has nothing to do with the reason the capacitor is there in the first place. Inadequate capacitance will lead to ripple which is never a good thing, and a low esr won't help here.
Recapping fixes a lot og items: monitors, power supplies, motherboards... I have seen EEVblog fixing so many monitors, most of them the sole problem is bad caps that is easily fixed by recapping. I personally have fixed several other pieces of appliances and the common culprit across all of them is bad caps.
Replacing capacitors does not always work. Caps are not the only components in electronic circuits. When caps fail they can take those other parts with them too.
Have a Dell GX270, a pentium 4, that had a blown capacitor dead centre of the board. Fluff and aluminum everywhere. Worked fine, but it bugged me every time I plugged in another piece of hardware to play with. So I ended up using an underpowered soldering iron, practically tore the thing out, couldn't clear the vias with solder wick, used an awesome Nichicon low esr that was destined for an audio project, left the leads miles long and swore up a storm. Long story, and the computer works just as well now as it did before.
Your mileage may vary.
I'm not a super electronic experts but does not seems a good idea to reduce the capacitance when replacing a capacitor, how did you came to the conclusion that by doing such a thing it's a good idea?
When replacing Electrolytic caps with Polymer, you can go with half the capacitance. Like there are 3300µF lytic caps, but I think polymer don't go as high.
Motherboards of that era used multiple electrolytic capacitors in parallel to reduce ESR and current going through each capacitor. So for example they used 2 x 3300 uF in parallel with 10mOhm ESR each to get 5 mOhm (half the normal value). Or they had to use multiple capacitors like those 1500uF ones with higher ESR (let's say up to 15mOhm when less than 10mOhm may be required) due to mechanical reasons, in this particular case taller capacitors would have blocked heatsink installation, or the risk of having capacitors damaged during cooler installation was deemeded too great.
Polymer capacitors can handle higher currents and have lower ESR values (as low as 2-3 mOhm) so as long as capacitance is above some minimum value (around 3-4000 uF in total for P4 times) you can use smaller capacitance polymer capacitors, all the minimum requirements will be met or exceeded
mariushmedias Thanks for the detailed explanation :)
PhilsComputerLab what happen is using same value
@@mariushmedias This is actually some pretty important information that I missed while watching the video.
I guess it means that you should only attempt to use half the capacitance polymer caps to replace caps in the VRM area of the board that are placed in parallel?
On my board I replaced a couple of "stand alone" caps next to the memory slots by half the value and this seems to have killed the board.
You know I replaced a bunch of caps on some of the boards I have but the weird thing is that the last time they were used the caps were all good, I have a P3 board by Shuttle that was rock solid and it was just sitting in a box for years then recently when I was getting parts together for my retro builds the caps were all bulged out couple other boards were like that too.
Not weird, bad quality capacitors will go bad like that. I know someone who bought a brand new sealed graphics card from 2003 or so, all the caps were bulging.
SuperDuty455 Wow that sucks anyway there all replaced and running good but I used electrolytic caps should have shelled out for the polymers my bad lol
didn't know it was possible to replace electrolyte capacitors with polymer ones , I have asked myself that question for a long time and never found any one dealing with that issue
Did you warm up the motherboard before using the desoldering gun? Or was the gun good enough on its own to melt the solder joints? These motherboards have heat dispersion layers.
I'm wondering a thing... Does that improve overclocking potential?
Maybe, but I'm not much into overclocking, especially retro hardware :)
Wonderful job, i have so many motherboards that i would only do this on very special ones because those polymers are so expensive and each retro motherboard tend to use more than 20 caps all over. I would replace all voodoo5 caps, because those cards have crazy prices; i have seen what cheap smd aluminum caps do on old sony CD-ROms 2x from the 90s and what a mess, the liquid reached all the copper traces. Also recapping some brands is a MUST, like Soyo or Abit. I was taking out soyo capacitors rated about 2200uf that had practically no weight and when you measure them its insane.
I wasnt triggered about the thermal paste on the other video "Phil", is just that i have a ptsd with an old pc of mine. :D
grats on the soldering, great video.
Where do you get capacitors, AND is there a Polarity position? or have to go on certain holes to work?
Really awesome!! I have a few older motherboards with bad caps. how difficult was the actual process of changing out the capacitors? could someone who has never soldered before do it easily??
Good to know if I ever want to build an older PC from period-correct parts :)
I've got an old soyo P4I865PE Plus Dragon 2.
Around last year, the AGP slot started becoming really unstable and not working half the time. Only this week did I start noticing the capacitors under the slot bulging a bit, and it all started making sense. I still have no clue what capacitors to replace them with, but I can ask the guys at the local radioshack (yep, I still have a radioshack near me) what to replace it with.
Why half the farad value on the solid caps if I may ask? I might need to change the caps of an old IBM PSU.
Stephen G. Careful, this is something I only use for the VRM caps on motherboards. Ask a professional if you repair something else.
PhilsComputerLab Thanks I will ask an electrical engineer when I'm back at my university again, some will probably know it. I just know things about planes and rockets. :P
Replacing with low esr poly caps of a similar capasitance is ok. I dont think they'll have frecuency problems. If you want to be sure just hook an osciloscope to the power rail before and after replacing. That should show you the improvement. In my experiency, they tend to put more capsor capasitance than needed to account for aging. I repaired a board which had 2 out of 4 caps completely dead, open circuit, 0 capasitance, and it still worked booted fine with an athlon 64 1.6ghz
Yea all these caps seem to be in parallel, and there are a LOT of them. So that's likely the reason the board was rock solid even with some of them failed.
maybe the amount is to achieve lower ESR so instead of one expensive cap per phase they use 2 smaller and cheaper caps in parallel, its always cheaper to use to cheap ones than one expensive one. The only reason to use brand caps is when you are tight on real estate on the board like on high power gaming boards with 12 phases which would be 24 caps, which would look scketchy and be a mayor point of failure though i've seen that with really short caps, still not very common with throw hole electrolityc caps.
Good video on replacement the thing I don't understand is why these fail when a old IBM say 5150 still runs to this day guessing IBM held manufacturers to a strict standard of quality in design.
Got some boards and cards that could need that at some point. Just as a preactive action before they start leaking.
Didn't knew the poly caps are available individually.
Did this to a monitor with bad caps. A Dell made by benq. Still works as a bench monitor.
Benq produces monitors for Dell? Wow, I didn't know that. Can you name the model of your Dell?
Cool recap job 😎, in want one of those guns, recaping with a soldering iron sucks, good video
I just recap a MSI P965 Platinum using only a standar solder iron and a crappy manual pump that do almost nothing.
All the brown 6.3V 1000uF caps were bad, 24 in total. At least she works fine know.
Hello Sir. What kind of soldiering gun did you use?
oh man that's a sweet solder pump
great video
Well i would like to know how to detect failed poly cap heads on a motherboard. I think and I stress think I have 8 failed poly caps.
Haven't exactly tried replacing with an aluminium capacitor before, but I did replace some blown capacitors on a laptop motherboard with ones on a dead mobo which are all surface mounted, which means it's a lot harder to take out the original capacitor in one piece (not like it matters here).
I'd love to learn about SMD soldering. I've got some sound cards that can be modded.
PhilsComputerLab If there is nothing to lose (the capacitor is broken and the device stops working stably, etc.), you can try soldering that with the regular method of adding some solder to one side at a time and use as little solder as possible, with the first side needing a lot of effort to be nailed down properly. As for desoldering the broken one, in my case it literally went into ashes so cleaning/scrapping the remaining parts with soldering iron did the job for me. Sketchy method I know. But if it works, congrats for you.
I have polymer caps in my old socket 7 machine, they are not modern, just rarely used by manufacturers in the past.
Is that the double-pump model= S-998P or one pump model= S-993A ? Is the china desoldering gun worth the 100usd$ for removing motherboard caps ? I'm very bad at soldering. Did it came with a tip which hole diameter is near 0.6mm for cap legs ?
Yea I use the double pump one, but it's for 240V only I believe. It came with various tips, small to large.
I think this one make will make a motherboard more reliable
I got failed polymer capacitors on my Z77 ASUS board. Boots up one in 100 times. I am 90% sure it's capacitors not charging enough to power up the board. Should be an interesting fix if I can be bothered.
phil, when replacing caps with poly, is it ok to do the same rated capacitance?
Love this idea!
I've replaced caps on a monitor PSU to make a buzzing screen perform like new but I'd be nervous about doing a motherboard. What is the chance you can fry everything plugged in to it?
i thought that you should not put your motherboard on top of the antistatic bag?
So, if you apply thermal paste to a potentially failing electro cap it will cause it to blow??
What kind (brand ,model) of desoldering gun is that Phil.
I am interested.I used to solder electronic projects back in the 1970's and a little in the 1990's
Turn on annotations- there's a link to a review from Phil at 2:18 in the video.
Thanks it's the GJS-998P Double Pump Desoldering Gun
I got an older SoYo board that's got swollen caps. Would like to have this done but I don't trust my abilities.
Hey Phil! Just thought I'd leave a comment for once! The thing is I have an old P4 that came out of an HP machine, it is clocked at 3.02 GHz and runs extremely hot, I was wondering if there was any way to send it your way, because I think it I will no longer be needing it
Actually have a few Pentium 4 motherboards that could use some new polymers, now I’m really wondering if this could be applied to older boards say 386, 486 and even older gaming consoles :)
You sir are a frigging goldmine
What do you think Phill? Will this new caps can handle some oc?
I won't OC a 3.4 GHz Pentium 4 :)
Well maybe not the 3.4 one, but some weaker netburst. I still remeber my old northwood 2.4 i set it on 2.7 for few days. Your videos brings so much of nostalgia :)
Ah yes, polymodding. The ultimate fix for quite a lot of ABIT VP6 and BP6 that have shown up on Badcaps.
I wish I could find them for a reasonable price in my town (and actually find them in the first place.) for my BE6-II. I would want to install them mostly due to clearance issues with the new caps I used on the BE6 at the moment (Panasonic, Sanyo and Rubycon.) when trying to install any CPU that uses Cooler Master's metal retention system, limiting me to either stock Intel heatsinks that use horrible plastic pins, or a custom modded slotket that now accepts Coppermine instead of Mendocino (though I'm not sure if I can use Mendocino ever again in that slotket - not that I would have any reason to on 440BX, unless I'd have an "A" suffix'd Celeron (which I don't, unfortunately :( they're rare as hen's teeth here) to overclock the absolute living bejeezus out of it.
Now do this on any Socket 370 motherboard! 😀
RS Components tends to be pretty expensive due to their free shipping being included, I'd recommend ordering from Digikey instead for that many parts
jamvanderloeff Not for Australia it seems. RS was cheaper than just the postage what other places charged.
Yeah, looks like it's not enough difference for one board, free shipping at 60AUD
I tend to like Mouser, but I don't know about buying from Australia.
Didn't know this was a thing. I actually tried polymodding an Asus A7N8X-Xe once. It didn't work, somehow the board died instead. And I'm sure I got the correct values :(
I usually just use a decent brand of electrolytic (Nichicon, United Chemicon, etc.) with low ESR. Polymer caps are a lot more expensive, and I'm a cheapskate!
Should've got one of those temp and voltage logging programs and graphed the CPU voltage before and after the mod. That way you could show all the naysayers hard data that proves using a lower value polymer cap doesn't negatively affect the voltage regulation.
My understanding is that you shouldn't see anything different with such programs. Caps are like buffers or reservoirs, they iron out voltage drops when there are sudden changes in load, like going from Idle to 100% load. So you got have something that can show what's going on dynamically when the load changes and I don't think this is straight forward...
Jetway are killer boards for every socket. They work really well and they use only good chipsets. And they use high quality components and they overclock quite well, even through for 478 socket it's difficult to go past 4.2 Ghz
Awesome video
i poly modded my VIA P4M900-M4, with a 478 LAPTOP P4 i can get +700 mhz, stock volts, with sub-par/average cooling and mostly stable, even with stress testing. so with volts i should get what +850mhz?
Hi Phil , nice timing. Its good to fix the little things that can stop a PC, its a shame they are not set up like a plug in a socket.
For a follow up request, are you able to do a video on the CMOS battery, basically 2 styles that give problems
1) VARTA style NiCd & NiMH soldered to motherboard
or the harder to access
2) Real Time Clock / Cmos Battery / NVRAM , tyipically they are the Dallas DS12887 and the Benchmarq BQ3287AMT
3) The capacitor mod, for type #1 as they are rechargeable from power from the mother board you can cheat and cut the battery out completely and solder in a large capacitor. As you can turn on the PC and reset all of your BIOS setting and wait for say 30 seconds, the capacitor will now have enough charge to save the setting for a few reboots or 24/48 hours - but if you have the room you should use a external AA battery pack or a simple button battery kits like the common CR2032 the housing and battery is under $10
Cool, again a nice video
Hmm I kinda like the ideas, but they are too niche I believe. This channel isn't about hardware modding, so I only do such topics occasionally and if it fits reasonably well.
Im just sodering new electrolyte capacitors, and you are telling me that are better ones DX
Time to search polymer ones!
HMK3 I don't think they are better. But in this case they are shorter, so that was easier. With the old ones, they had to use different heights because of the CPU bracket.
HMK3 they are not "better"
They work the same and if you compare the two types of capacitors with the same specs I think the only difference is polymer ones last longer
Zona ALG and have a lower esr, that's how you can get away using lower capacitance up to a certain point (lower esr means that they can respond quicker to changes in voltages to make it easier) and sometimes they support y more (or higher) ripple that regular electrolitics
Zona ALG, Polymer caps definately are better,they have ripple current ratings about ten times higher than wet electrolytic caps of same capacitance and are much faster.Take a look at the panasonic oscon video explaining why they are superior to standard electrolytics.
Electrolytics really are the 'worst' type of capacitor, as far as ideal behavior is concerned, however, they have very high capacitance. That is the only reason people use them at all.
That de-soldering gun, man.... It's neat and all, but I'd take a braid any day. Simple, reliable, easy... One step one iron... clean.
Great video, you earned a new sub :)
I've got an amiga 500+ I need to do cap and battery swap on, just finding the time 8s
I guess this will help to get some more overclocking quality and stability
Am I right?
Not sure, I'm not into overclocking though.
That’s how it should have been initially for all those all boards
Great video. Will you be doing NVIDIA 4 Quadro test?
I could do that, haven't done a GeForce vs Quadro comparison on a while. What would you like to see?
Can I use Heatgun as Desoldering?
Not sure, never used a heatgun.
you can but it can be destructive to other nearby components.
nice video phil!
On the vrm output you could have use 2.5v or 4v caps and it would have worked, that part would be at Max 1.525v with the high end P4
+Rdrack And overclock better.
Lothaire Cliquennois well that depends on the state of the other caps and if they had enough capacitance, some low end board would cheap out on caps and put less of them in that case you might have a better overclock by changing them, but putting polymers will not always make a board oc better
Jetway is a nice brand, and the rest of the caps are nice. But the VRMs looks quite underpowered
I've seen 4 phase boards that can run heavily OC'ed quads.
Lothaire Cliquennois actually not, those are some really craptacular caps, that's one of the worst caps you could find and before talking about a vrm being weak you have to look for the datasheet of the low and high side MOSFET's.
I fixed a random crashing GTX 660 Ti and a 775 Motherboard like this, also a Geforce MX 440 i had
have you ever tried overclocking a 486 processor before?
There is a video with a 486 at 160 MHz.
How much total price of all the polymer capacitors used in this video??
Watch the video, it shows the prices!!
Why use not capacitors with smaller values, not exactly the same?
Solid polymer caps are better in almost all properties than usual wet aluminum ones.
0:50 ? that's a damn Tata Safari!!! , if you don't know it's a part of Tata group the Indian company which pretty much owns Tetley tea , hispano motor and jaguar + land rover! ...... you will only find Tata cars in very few European countries but Tata is very very popular in India and Nepal , they have like 143 division with over 300 counties business and Ratan Tata is also a very good man , 66% of the companies income is donated to charity and that is about 66 billion us $$
They sell their xenon here in Australia but the build quality is so bad, worse than Chinese cars, flaky paint from new, panel alignments off, screws on an angle and protruding, wiring looms exposed, unheard of in modern cars.
PhilsComputerLab what happen if using polymer capacitor same value as the mainboard old electrolytic capacitor
It's even better, but more expensive.
Why is it possible to use capacitors with much lower capacitance?
Because they are Polymer caps! Also, this only works for the VRM section.
Wish I had a desoldering gun. I repaired a motherboard (AM2) that had bulging caps. Solder was pretty oxidized and I am still new to soldering/desoldering. The board works, but smells of burning electronics...so I put it in my electronics recycling box :(
1. Use flux and fresh solder
2. Clean board using an old toothbrush (a mixture of alcohol and "distilled" (demi) water tends to work well) - might tackle the smell
3. Ideally the iron should be powerful enough and heat transfer good enough to require no longer than about 2 seconds of application - you may be able to accelerate things by increasing temperature, using another tip and/or making sure there is plenty of solder to transfer heat
I did try some of that, but I think there is damage. The board was cleaned prior and after soldering, but the smell only happens when I turn it on and run it. I am concerned about damaging either the power supply or the good parts (CPU, RAM, etc) or starting a fire :D
You need the same uF but you can have higher V
I poly modded a dual socket 370 board with no issues
Great video