ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มิ.ย. 2024
- Electrolytic capacitor replacement (recapping) is one of the most common repairs on today's electronics. It's also among the easiest electronic repairs most DIY'ers will have no problem successfully taking on.
All you need is a soldering iron, a little soldering & desoldering skill and of course the correct value replacement capacitor/s.
Failed electrolytic caps are so common place, you can literally save hundreds of dollars in replacement electronic device costs, while keeping them out of the landfill &/or electronic recycling facility.
I'll show you how to visually spot a bad capacitor and in most cases, a visual inspection is all that's needed to identify a bad electrolytic cap. I'll also go over the values you need to know for your replacement caps, observing electrolytic capacitor polarity, and of course the actual capacitor removal and replacement process.
For those DIY'ers that have more testing equipment, I'll also show my simple capacitor testing methods when they show no visible sign's of damage. You don't need this stuff of course to replace a bad cap, it's just a little extra info for those that want to give it a go.
Video Time Chapters:
0:00 Howdy Folks
1:42 Identifying bad electrolytic caps
3:20 Removing capacitors
4:36 Replacing capacitors
6:59 Confirming repair
8:48 Electrolytic cap testing methods
Tools I used in this video:
- Ksger T12 Soldering Station
www.banggood.com/custlink/GDK...
- Pro's Kit Desolder Station
www.banggood.com/custlink/KKG...
- Kester 60/40 Rosin Core Solder
amzn.to/3K4hzt4
- Hantek Oscilloscope
www.banggood.com/custlink/mvG...
- Uni-T UTG932E Function Generator
www.banggood.com/custlink/K3v...
Here's a decent low cost ESR meter to test capacitors (works in circuit too):
amzn.to/3pHKmPg
DISCLAIMER: Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting RC Helicopter Fun.com & my channel which helps me keep creating content.
Please consider giving a thumbs up & subscribe if you enjoy the content - thank you & thanks for watching :) - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I helped an old friend of the family remove a stuck disc from a dvd player. I did it through brute force though as he was chucking the player due to water damage. The disc was backdoor babes 5.
Awkward moment never to be mentioned outside the anonymity of the internet.
Hey Mark - you win the best comment of the month reward 😄
@@Rchelicopterfun amazing! Is there a prize?
I'd quite like to see the sequel to the aforementioned movie 🍿🍿🍿
@Mark Rice, The prize is the knowledge you had me rolling on the floor. With what is going in the world right now, a good chuckle is most welcome 🙂
As for a sequel to the aforementioned movie, don't look to me. 😄 Think those are on other types of video sharing sites - not that I would know.
Lol
"oh no it's chill man i don't care at all about it, it's all junk just throw it away...."
"nah bro i know i can do this i kind of just want to figure it out, and you'll get your disk back........ got it! oh..."
Thank you for supporting “right to repair” and less waste in the world.
I always like to remind and / or teach people before touching a circuit board to confirm that the capacitors are drained first, and if not, to drain them first. Also, I love that disordering tool!! Thank you for this video!!!
describing the electrolyte leak as "shit staining" just earned a subscribe.
😄👍
Thanks, you've shownthe best way to diagnose and replace bad caps. Very inspiring for those who never tried this before.
Thanks for watching 🙂
I love that desoldering tool! For the record, I have been finding that most overseas manufacturers are using capacitors with voltage ratings right on the line. In nearly every instance, products that have failed me were easily repaired by replacing the caps and doing so with the next higher voltage rating available.
The two most expensive items I have repaired were so very cheap to fix.
First was the first flat screen TV I ever had that was a plasma TV. Absolutely wonderful image and it started to not want to turn on. Finally, I hear *POP* one day and smell the unmistakable odor of a capacitor gone bad. The TV was dead. Now, as an aside, I used to hear ALL THE TIME about plasma TV failures and how they would go into dumpsters. I opened mine up (about two thousand screws later) and looked at the power board and saw a few bulged caps and one clearly burst. Now, here's the STUPID part. Though they had caps rated exactly for the voltage of the board, the board was drawn to accept LARGER ones. "This is TOO easy!" I said to myself. Yes, it was that easy. I didn't just replace the bad ones; I replaced ALL of them for about $12. That was over two decades ago, and that Plasma set still works like new!!! Like I said, how many plasmas were trashed for a $12 fix!?!?
The second item was the control board for our $1 Jacuzzi (yes, $1 from a friend that moved and couldn't take it (6 people too!). That board was a little less obvious. I found the testing procedures on-line and did everything as stated. I then found a very nice repair service in AZ that worked on them and sent the fellow an e-mail and outlines all my tests. He actually CALLED me on the phone saying that he was impressed seeing somebody else who knew about everything to make the repair. He said, "you won't believe what the problem is." I answered, "The capacitors, right?" Yup, same thing and here again, I fit the next higher voltage rating caps on the board and called it good. That board never failed again, and it only cost me $8 for those (the repair guy normally got $200 if he did it, but he didn't ask for a dime just to confirm what I already knew).
So, are the manufacturers purposely cutting it too close with the caps knowing they will fail so you buy a new item? Somehow, I think so.
For 12v power supply they put 16v caps. When the voltage peaks, it goes 16 volt or higher. Thats how any equipment fails. A thumb rule to be followed is using just double rating cap than the intended voltage. Likewise for 15 to 18v, go for 35-40v cap. For 24v go for 50v rating.
isn't just a $12 fix, your time and tools are $$, and an electronics shop would charge for their time and experience.
@@dicko-200 - I worked in an electronics store and did moderate repairs. We were VERY fair on what we charged. I could tell stories about the big "pro" repair shops that fell flat on their faces! Worst case ever... A CB radio that was brought in and not working at all. Sent to pro shop #1 and came back after 4 months with: "Cannot find problem, Unit not worth repair." Sent it to pro shop #2, SAME THING. Sat in the back of our shop waiting for the owner to come get it but after four months he hadn't. One slow day, I said "Oh, what the heck, let me see if I can fix it." I took the back off, examined it for about 1 minute with a magnifying glass and grabbed the cordless soldering iron to touch up just ONE bad solder joint. Worked perfectly! $10 repair and the customer was ecstatic!! Why didn't I just fix it there in the first place? Pro shop #1 (that owned our store) had complained we were not sending enough repairs their way. We sent it to shop #2 because we THOUGHT #1 at least TRIED to fix it, so it must have been beyond our talents. We were wrong!! The pros don't know it all.
If a few Caps in parallel have one bulged change all 3 as the unbulged could have failed first leaving all the work onto the bulged one.
No doubt!
One thing that I'd like to mention for more of the new persons learning electronics.
Is, if you see a cap that even a little bit bulged, don't even bother testing it.
JUST REPLACE IT!
There's really no such thing as a "good" cap that is bulged.
Sure, sometimes a bulged might test close to ok, but it's not. Sometimes, its ESR is way off and/or once in circuit and voltage applied, its capacitance changes, way out of value.
Same applies to those little tin hat caps. If you see any brown stuff around/under them, don't waste time testing. Just replace.
I have found SO many failed electrolytic caps in all the repairs that I have done over many years that I replace them with a higher voltage cap, and I have never had one come back for any related problem. Thanks for sharing the video.
Good tip, thanks for the view 👍🙂
Use an ESR meter to check all the electrolytics in circuit. Worth the money for a decent one.
Better quality caps, last longer, in my experience, nichicon kg, rubycon, Audio note, there's lots, great video👍
Agreed, those are good cap manufacturers. Gota add one more of my personal anecdotal experience favorites to the "good list" : Panasonic. 🙂
Hi ! Certainly one of the best video I saw about electrolytic capacitors, defect, repair and analysis of why and still understandable by the common man! Congratulations and thanks!
Thanks for the kind words and thank for watching.
Totally deserved , my friend!@@Rchelicopterfun
Your desoldering tool is amazing sir
The hakko is even better 1/2 -1 second to remove caps of this size
Great video John, I have a player just like yours and this helped a lot if I should have this problem. Thank you.
Thanks Gregory, glad you found it useful should you ever have the same issue with your Samy B-R.
.... Don't forget to discharge large caps before you start any diagnostics.
My uk central heating boiler started making a faint buzzing sound, then eventually stopped working at all, as the internal fan and gas and water circulating solonoids would not operate ..After a struggle Managed to eventually remove the main control PCB from its plastic mounting pegs...
No transformer to isolate the mains supply! it just used a series capacitor and resistor to drop the voltage feeding a rectifier connected to a swollen 100uf,100vw electrolytic. I replaced it with a larger 220uf 220vw connected to the back of the PCB as there wasn't enough room on the component side..
I also took the opportunity to extend the wireing loom feeding the various solonoids and fan thermostat etc. So as to make it easier to work on when in place...
That was five years ago! saved £250 on a new PCB board as the repair guys only replace the PCB
Nice 👍
Thanks for the explanations and demonstrations. I really appreciate people like you sharing knowledge & skills, esp'y. when you're concise & efficient with the task at hand. So many ppl spend too much video time pointing out the obviously UNrelated components &/or features. "We're going to check the power supply because the red standby light doesn't come on....or is it blue? Let's seeeee........"
Um no thanks, I'm troubleshooting my DVR's power, not LED colors. Move it!
Good job 👍
I bought a job lot of used Dell computers from a school a few years back, and in this bundle was a brand new one that worked for a minute and failed. Needless to say i was intrigued, so the first port of call was to open up the faulty one. Lo and behold half of the electrolytics were installed the wrong way round, a quick replacement af roughly half a dozen caps and all is well again. So even the big boys make mistakes.
Excellent fix!
My 2009 LENOVO M58p desktop computer was now giving me the boot loop run around. The cause turned out to be due to there being 1 defective capacitor in the PSU. However, 5 other caps also had the bulge as well. Overall, I replaced 7 capacitors. Now all is well again. Total cost was $9.55. That is a heck of a lot cheaper than buying a new PSU. Same goes for my 2010 SAMSUNG TV. Just 1 capacitor had to be replaced, which I removed from some old junk that I had floating around, and so it cost me nothing at all. And so both are still working to this day.
10 points!! Ding ding ding! He can pronounce solder! Amazing!
Great vid, as always! Thank you! :)
Thanks for the view - as always 🙂
thanks a lot .
So typical in power supplies. The capacitors are failing due to the poor selection of the capacitors in the design of the power supply. There is a spec called "ripple current", and most engineers aren't even aware enough to check that spec when selecting caps. It's easy to exceed the ripple current rating, then the caps overheat inside, drying out the electrolyte. This design even paralleled 2 caps, and it still wasn't enough! I learned about this back in the mid 90's, and have spent quite a bit of my career fixing power supplies with this issue.
The spikes you're seeing are the inductance in the test leads you're using. At a 100Khz square wave, there's no way to get rid of them, and even a new capacitor will fail to filter them out. Some designs parallel smaller value capacitors with the larger ones, but this isn't necessary in this application. Excellent video, and I like your method of testing in-circuit.
Good stuff. Thanks and cheers!
Thanks for calling out the parasitic inductance as the source of the transition spikes. I was hunting through the comments to see if anyone else identified it before writing!
Nice info, thank you for sharing it :)
Thanks back for the view 🙂
Thank you so much...can you please show how to select the correct filter cap for a transformer less supply?
When caps fail and get bulged i replace them with a bit higher voltage rated ones, in that case if they are 16v I put 25v if the size allows me. I use to test caps with an analog multimeter but after all this years i found the best method is replace "all" old caps for new ones especially on the hot locations on the device and the power supply.
Greate Video Thanks you very much
Glad you liked it 🙂
Thanks! Have the same problem so now I know how to fix it 😬
Hope you are able to fix yours too Tom.
Hey interesting stuff 👍
Do you have anything on how to check spike absorbers with multi meter. I am wanting to check a couple of Fettec spike absorbers
Hi john. I would like you to do some video clips on how to repair an adapter charger (12, 24, ..) volts and also advise the common faults/damages on the adapter chargers.
There are a variety of adapter chargers such remote control toys, scooters, etc.. batteries chargers. Just simply pick any of them as examples.
Thanks
Anyone remember the Chinese capacitor fiasco of the early 2000s?
It was mostly flat screen tv power supplies with them.
I think it was mostly electrolyte drying out and / or low heat tolerance.
Sadly, the dreaded capacitor disease disabled a tower motherboard of mine. Sure enough, examined the pressure relief cuts across the tops and most were bulging or leaking.
Holy. Buck rogers bat man , thats a cool desolder tool
Replaced 160v 47uf caps on my tv p/s board with 300v 1000uf. The TV turns on and works fine, do you think I'll have a problem later on?
Excellent and very useful! Do you ever discharge capacitors before replacing them?
Not on little low voltage caps like these ones - they hold very little energy. I personally start concerning myself with discharging high capacity caps once they are over several hundred volts.
Lady in a parking lot said her car would not start needed battery boost. She had her friend change battery and it did not help and several shops told her itcwould need expensive diagnostics.
I was late for a job,but I said I take a look. Opened the trunk took a 7/16 wrench tightened up terminals,then with no boost I said try it.
Little sliw but it kicked over and ran. Left her my biz card ,asked her to let me know if it failed again. She called me up on a friday and then E transferred me a couple of dollars.
So liking your explanations. Really want to get an oscilloscope now. Thanks.
It's actually pretty shocking how many semi-"new" stuff stops working because of failing caps. I had several DVD players on my healing bench not older than 10 years that stopped working because of failed caps while most of my 30-40 years old hifi equipment runs still on it's original caps.
I'm not shocked at all.
The quality of caps used in cheap equipment nowadays is very low. Really, just garbage.
I'm old school and caps like those would last for years.
I have some caps that are over 30 years old that still look and test perfect.
@@BlondieSL Not necessarily. I've heard stories of VCR repair techs in the first half of the 1980s who were replacing electrolytics in power supplies left, right, and centre, some VCRs as little as one year old. Some old equipment is just a lot less sensitive towards semi-poor caps than switching mode power supplies are. Then of course there was the counterfeit capacitor plague of the 2000s that affected lots of huge equipment manufacturers. Actually I wonder if the Panasonic HDD/DVD recorder I'm working on right now might be old enough to have that issue, the power supply section has leaky Elna electrolytics all over.
@@Ragnar8504 Back then I had my own TV Repair shop and repaired many VCRs.
For me, the biggest failure were the heads.
Sure, sometimes a few caps here and there, but not so much as the trash of today.
Yeah, I remember seeing an influx of Elna caps and there were not good.
You're right about the 2000s things going from bad to worse.
We're still plagued with fake, cheap caps, especially when one buys those "bulk" caps off of Amazon and such. LOL
Now, for test projects, I'll test each caps for capacitance and ESR before using them.
But for final product, I'll use top brand caps.
Fun times.
@@BlondieSLthe quality of caps used in stuff that isn’t cheap in the least bit is egregious as well. I frequently find absolutely garbage caps in high end, very expensive audio gear.
Yep, JCCON do go bad, have replaced them on motherboards. It seems the ones that go bad are the ones that are the smallest size for a given spec. If using sketchy caps, I'd go up in voltage if room permits.
Great. Can repair electronics, greetings to all, I'm from a content creator from Indonesia
Nice informative video. Learned this simple trick. 👍 Please some time make a video of how to identify a bad SMD capacitor in a mother board. Thise are pretty small and no markings on it.
Don't know myself... I'm sure Louis Rossmann has it covered.
Does this method works on in circuit capacitors or uou always need yo detach them first?
John; I' m fixing a Jennings slot machine. Could I replace a 1.0k Tantalum Capacitor with a new 2.2 Electroletic capacitor. Same voltage.
I WAS AT A RECYCLE DAY, GOT A JUMP PACK WITH INVERTER, JUST CHANGED OUT THE BATTERY, AND A DVD PLAYER WITH A BAD POWER SUPPLY. THREW AWAY THE P S AND I NOW RUN IT ON EXTERNAL 12 VOLTS FOR THE AUDIO CIRCUITS AND A STANDARD 5 VOLT REGULATOR LM7805 WELL HEAT SINKED TO THE FRAME, PLUGS INTO ANY 12 VOLT POWER OUTLET MAKING IT PORTABLE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey unrelated to the vid but I have a cassette deck that requires tuning with a 1khz at -10db signal , what equipment do I need to do that?
Thanks a lot! You taught me the positive and negative terminals so I fixed it! But do you really need soldering wires?
Only if you want it to work.
I have a radio HITHACHI 32 years old stereo, its one side sound very low should I replace all capacitors, I think so, please give me some advice
Hi
I recommend two toys: BSIDE ESR02 Pro and/or MESR 100
Very interesting and informative as always !! My pool pump was having more and more difficulty starting last summer and as you said, it finally would not start at all...Main suspect was the big capacitor ...Changed it, and bingo....Starts like new. But now with your video, I will be more confident to try it with household electronics ! Thank you M.Salt .
@1983dmd Yep, caps are consumable. 😄 Good you were able to fix your pump with a new one.
That cap on the pump will have ~ 100 V on it so more dangerous than a DVD cap!
@@danc2014 A cap on a DVD player would have 110-240v before stepped down to 5-12v on the powersupply side.
Hi
My 25 yr old car radio stopped powering up. I changed the two 2200uF capacitors in the power supply and it didn’t help. Could it be the other capacitors on the power supply board? Thanks!
Built an ESR meter when I was a young tech in training. They are worth having and provide a reliable indication of a bad capacitor in circuit too. But your method of the function generator and CRO works well. Guess they aren't CRO's anymore having digital screens. Fun fact, the first digital oscilloscope I ever used was worth $80000, how times have changed.
Yep, crazy how little digital o-scopes cost now. 🙂 Thanks for the visit.
That's insane! I was blown away at what Tektronix was getting for the analog scopes like the 2445 when they were brand new. No wonder the average hobbyist had to settle for a tiny little 15MHz with bare minimum features to be functional and still paid a pretty good price for those even.... but the Teks were definitely fetching top dollar for those days. 80s prices are still more than I'd want to spend nowadays, nevermind if inflation since then and such were factored in. I was lucky enough to have found a used 2445 in mint condition with fairly low hours on it compared to a lot I've seen. They actually track how many times they've been powered on and booted up too which I find I testing to look at. Seems most labs turn them on and leave them on none stop only shutting them down on weekends or holidays is what I find evidence of most times. Funny, I bought an old scope to work on my electronics and actually found working on old tek scopes can be pretty fun and challenging too. Love the old tektronix test gear.
Thank you, John, for your video,awesome equipment. what brand of capacitors that you are using for repair?
I don't recall, just searched though my odds & ends cap bin and found a few that had the same ratings. If you have to order them anyway, usually best to get them from a good supplier such as digi-key, mouser, online components, etc. These places generally don't sell crap or reject caps that you might sometimes run across on ebay & amazon.
Wait, i was thinking that you can place both more Voltage and more capacity in microfarads? Like you can safely put 25v 3300uf instead of old 16v 2200uf. Am i wrong?
Thanks for posting this! Is there any way to check a capacitor while it's still in the circuit board?
Yes, with a dedicated ESR meter. Low cost example in description.
nice! Many ppl dont know our appliances like LCD LED TV mostly wont boot up also cause by bloated capacitors....😊
Yes, so true. You have to wonder how many costly devices are tossed out when a few dollars of caps could save them?
Can you tell me what is wrong with this TCL Model: 43S421 TV I thought it was just bad contacts on the ribbons, but I cleaned them, and it still flickers. I took a short video clip of it, but I don't know how to send it in this
can you help me with what is CP802 on a samsung TV Un46fh6030f power supply board??
John in your opinion, what variation in capacitance value would be deemed acceptable / safe when replacing caps .. eg the value of a cap to be replaced is 47uF at 25v, the new replacement cap both being 25v when tested read as being 45uF and 49uF with low ESR, would a person use them or not? .. Thank you.
Personally, I don't put much "value" (pun intended) on tested capacitance values of caps. I would certainly use them (those values are very close in proximity after all) provided there are no physical signs they are shot.
Thank you for the Video. Do I need to worry about the Ripple Current rating of the new capacitor? Some people are very serious about them and some don't even bother thinking about them.
Completely depends on the circuit and application. If the circuit in question has the potential to produce lots of ripple in operation and the design specifications calls for little, then of course you want a cap that is of the required rating to absorb it. If it's a non critical/low current application however (such as this item), then it's moot.
Thank you for sharing the knowledge! Slightly off topic question: Would you know of any advantages of getting Hantek DSO5102P or Rigol DS1202Z-E oscilloscope? Both are 2-ch. in very similar price range. Hantek is 100MHz which can be hacked to 200. The Rigol is 200MHz factory. Thank you in advance!
@tektech1065. I actually did a review on the Hantek DSO5102P (the scope I use): th-cam.com/video/mIoHFwyeE44/w-d-xo.html
It's one of the best entry level beginner/hobbyist digital o-scopes on the market in my opinion. In that review, I do mention the Rigol DS1202Z-E as another good choice if you need a deeper memory scope. That would be the primary reason to get it over the Hantek.
You state both are similar in price, however, from my research when looking at each before I got the Hantek; the Rigol was almost $100USD more. I haven't looked in a while however so maybe they are on sale or similar now and if that's the case, the logical nod goes to the Rigol for the longer record length.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you very much!
hi gold caps are much better than the other ones
Never saw this oscilloscope setup before, do can you make a video explaining what is a function generator and how you plug it in and use it aside from caps testing?
Wiki Definition: A function generator is a piece of electronic test equipment used to generate different types of electrical waveforms over a wide range of frequencies.
There are already lots of articles, webpages, and videos out there on what a function generator is & what it's used for. Just one of many examples: th-cam.com/video/a4DHYyoNNZ0/w-d-xo.html
In this case it is clearly seen that the capacitors are perforated. I really liked the desoldering gun, I had not seen it before. Could you tell me if it is possible to buy it somewhere? Thank you.
Links are in the description.
Hey John I’m looking at buying a ksger t12 station and wondering if it’s still a good station. I also can’t decide between handles
Hi Isaac, I love mine and it's working great. I use it a fair amount and have never had a single issue. Haven't even worn out any of the T12 tips yet (I do look after my tips however). Handle choice is entirely personal preference. I've tried 3 of the different designs, and still like the basic plastic 9501 handle best. It has the shortest grip to tip distance (31mm) and is the best balanced in my opinion, but I like working close in for better tip control. Of course, others don't that method or the plastic 9501, and like the aluminum one or the longer working distance 907 better. Your call.
@@Rchelicopterfun Cheers
The MESR-100 V2 is awesome. You can also test the resistance or microhenries of the inductors with the esr meter. The reactance formula is 2𝛑FL. That would be 2 x 3.14 x frequency of esr meter which is 100 kHz x 100 (uH) Just plug it in to get the reading.
R=0.628 X L(uH)
L(uH)=R(ohms)/0.628
My 2 NAD stereo receiver power supply filter caps are rated 4700uF 50V. Are you saying I shouldn't go over 4700uF but volts are okay to bump up?
I don't know enough about audio equipment applications to give you a definitive answer, but the general rule is you can always increase the voltage rating of an electrolytic cap provided there is enough room to fit. Most of the comments support that as well.
I picked up from other electronics. Videos that if you spot a baby blue capacitor, it's a Sanyo. And it's absolute garbage:
-ergo- replace.
Do you concur??
I eagerly look forward to your response
could you use caps from an old PC motherboard per say that still aren't bulging and leaking?
Yep, provided of course they are the same values. Best to test them first to make sure they are not faulty because as stated, not all bad caps will show physical damage.
Hi, is there a link to purchase the soldering kit you used or one that you would suggest getting for this type of work?
Links in description to all equipment I use.
John that method works for capacitors of a wide range of capacitances or do you have to adjust frequenvy and/or vpp ?
I've found it fairly universal, at least for my hobbyist/DIY testing applications.
@@Rchelicopterfun ty :)
Do you have to observe the polarity when connecting them to a multimeter? Which is the positive in that case?
Yes; positive would naturally be the one that is not marked negative.
can use audio signals to test caps?
say put a cap in series with the output of an mp3 player to the sound input on your computer?
if the cap is bad it will let a different frequency through or even crackle.
Audio is low frequency (perhaps peaking upwards of 20 kHz the odd time but mostly between 60 Hz and 15 kHz which is a long way off the required 100 kHz to 500 kHz to properly test an electrolytic cap. A cap may pass a low frequency audio test without issue but fail once the frequencies are increased to nominal operating frequencies (again, application dependent).
I had to replace the 2 power shottky diodes in my brother in laws sony radio cd player as they were both loosing power by half its proper full value total. There was no power at all to the board. I did check all the capacitors and they were working fine.
Nice repair 👍
Where do you buy capacitors if you're fixings these electronic parts?
Any electronics component store (Digi-Key, Mouser, Newark, etc.)
Wouldn't it be good to clean under the capacitors that leaked before replacement?
If there was residue on the board of course, but these ones as shown only had slight staining on top; there was nothing clean underneath.
Where did you order from, were they local? I used eBay but didn't see the shipper till a tracking # was produced. (China) It may be next year before I get them??? Where a distributor for a future purchase 🤔!
Here in Canada, I usually purchase electronic components from DigiKey or Mouser.
My general approach to testing electrolytics with a multimeter or capacitance meter is: if capacitance is way out (over 50%) the cap is definitely bad. If the capacitance is in the right ballpark that still doesn't mean the ESR is good, so slightly inconclusive. Apparently high ESR will throw capacitance readings off, at least sometimes, so a much higher capacitance reading than the cap value does tell you the ESR is too high. Annoyingly you can't trust in-circuit measurements and not all bad caps bulge or leak visibly. In fact, out of all the rotten apples I've replaced, only a handfull showed visible damage. All the others looked fine.
You can get very affordable component testers that measure ESR, among many other things. These testers can check many different diodes, transistors and other electronic parts and seem to be fairly reliable, especially for their price. The most common model is the LCR-T4.
Is it common for the electrolytic fluid to be that dark color? Or does it change color over time?
I've seen it almost black, brown, yellow and cream. No idea if the color changes from time, usage, heat, application or the specific electrolyte used by a given manufacturer?
Some oscilloscopes have a signal generator to calibrate the probes and working at 1 KHz/5V : can we use that signal instead if we don't have a signal generator available ?
I would be concerned with 5V output. That is likely too much for most caps and the test alone could cook them or at least use up some of their life. I suppose you could build a simple voltage divider circuit to lower it to about 1V or so which I think would work fine, but that is just a suggestion and don't know how good the test results will be?
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks for your reply, actually, if forgot to tell the signal I'm talking about is DC, between 0 and 5 V, not from -2.5V to 2.5V...
We need an AC signal, right ?
Also, 1kHz isn't enough, is it ? It should be at least a few dozen of kHz, like yours, 100kHz, right ?
And yes, a divider should do the trick...
@gloubiboulga - Yes AC is best so the cap is seeing both positive and negative noise potential. Also correct that 1kHz is not nearly high enough; sorry I missed that and read 100 kHz for some reason. Most capacitor ESR meters will test around 100 kHz I believe. Ideally, if you know the frequency the device is operating at, that is what you would test the caps at. I never checked the switching frequency of the switch mode power supply in this blu-ray player, but many switch mode power supplies operate around 100 kHz so it seems to be a fairly universal test frequency.
What's the name of the handtool you use to desolder?
ProsKit SS-331 Desolder Station: amzn.to/3xTFQ4r
I did a full review on it a while back: Part 1: th-cam.com/video/PuiiZO8Ye70/w-d-xo.htmlsi=10YwBoii2BSY1vNt
Part 2 (110 - 240V universal voltage update): th-cam.com/video/9eBG7z-2qNE/w-d-xo.html
Esquire Which tool you are using for remove capacitor please name
If you're referencing the de-soldering tool, I link to the one I use in the video description.
Thanks for the video, but you didn't say or explain why you didn't check or change out any other caps on the power board...?
@The Ol' Outlaw - Because the rest had no indication of puffing/leaking - fix the known stuff first. Only if this didn't fix the issue would I then have dug deeper - within reason.
@@Rchelicopterfun Okay, makes sense. Thankyou for the reply. :)
Is there a preferred brand of capacitors to buy?
Generally if you get them from a reputable electronics dealer such as DigiKey or Mouser and stay away from the eBay and Amazon ones you are pretty safe with any of them. I personally don't think any one brand is consistently head & shoulders better, but you generally can't go wrong with Nichicon, Rubycon, Vishay or Panasonic. In critical high power stuff stuff like ESC power input caps, (which this old Blu-Ray certainly is not), I generally only use Panasonic caps and have never been let down (anecdotal of course).
I wish I had a blue ray player. and a blue ray disc.
i have a blu-ray player that crapped out on me, it looks alot like the one you;re fixing
4:42 most likely they have a lower ripple current rating which is important for caps used in power supplies. caps with lower ripple current rating will heat up faster and run much hotter and have a much shorter life.
i was frelng privileged about having my esr meter until you pulled out your function generator and oscilloscope
our Blu-ray player has been acting up in us for some time now, I didn't realize capacitors could be the cause though..! 🤔
What is ESR?
You put in those new caps right away, aren't you supposed to tin the leads first, to avoid cold solder joints ?
All component leads are pre-tinned.
I purchased a box of Chinese ChongX capacitors. Later I discovered they are not good quality. Should I throw them away?
Nobody wants to desolder every cap to test, what's best way to test in circuit on pcb ? ESR test ?
ESR meter.
Do you look for what caused the fail?
Electrolytic capacitors are a consumable component. Failure mechanism was usage & heat, hastened somewhat by the use of low quality electrolytic caps in this particular unit; but failure would eventually happen regardless.
But this method does not work for low ESR capacitors? You are using AC voltage on a high ESR value capacitors here.
If a capacitor is smaller than what you want to replace, it may only mean that is made with newer techniques.
🤗👍
Loads of gunk has come out of the one I wanna replace and over a bit of the board!
Can I replace the capacitor and leave the gunk there ? Lol
Today i learn. My tv have got two capacitor get bloated like that
Time bomb caps, made just to last the warranty
Blacklisted devices wreck their capacitors, typically seen on old P2 motherboards. Seems that a legalized, activated device fixes the capacitors by charging them correctly. So if a laptop had previously an illegal Win, by replacing it with a legal one, correctly fixes all components without the need of replacing any parts.
Electrolytic should be same size or bigger. ISR - switching g loses in PS
How much would you say such a repair costs? Because they tell me that they cannot replace the capacitors and 1 LED on the monitor for less than €70 or $70. Which is crazy because the value of the components is less than €10. the new monitor costs me €120, which is an absurd amount for a repair.
Who are "they". Regardless, not crazy at all and sounds perfectly reasonable to me considering any electronic repair shop I know will charge a minimum inspection fee of about that, not to mention the door rates are at at least $125/hr. You are not paying much for the component in an electronic repair, you are paying for the technicians time, expertise, diagnostic skills, repair equipment and all the other costs associated with keeping the lights on at the shop.
@@Rchelicopterfun That's sad to hear. With such repairs and prices, we will never achieve our goal of reducing electronic waste. Throwing things in the trash will only increase and increase, and in the end they will eventually close their repair shops. Such a system lacks stability and resilience. Every piece of electronics that is serviced should be paid by the state to the servicer, as this reduces disposal in the trash. This would also lower the prices of services and make them a more interesting option for users.
Exactly why I've taken the time & effort to learn how to fix things myself. Suggest you do the same if this is such a big problem. With less and less skilled trades people, this as you say will only get worse. No-one wants to learn how to fix things anymore, they just want to buy new stuff or have someone else do it for them for next to nothing.
Our society is pathetically disposable and becoming more so with lack of right to repair, proprietary technology, lack of trained techs, software no longer supported, parts discontinued, and the bottom line of commercialism to make more money and increase the stock. Look at Apple and Tesla as just two of the worst offenders - there are many more and it's growing daily. Why not make the manufacture pay for the problem with their billon dollar profits over suggesting the already overly burdened tax payer pay for it!
I most certainly don't want my taxes going up to pay for everyone else's repairs. Where does that stop? You going to recommend a tax funded repair program for vehicles, hvac, appliances, and every other bit of repairable technology that is headed for the landfill because it's 1. Too costly to repair over the price of a new. 2. Can't be repaired because there is a lack of technical trades knowhow. 3. can't be repaired because the manufacturer won't allow it and has completely suppressed right to repair. 4. Can't be repaired because the software is no longer supported or parts have been discontinued. 5. The mindless masses only want new stuff because they are bored with what they have.
See, it's a much bigger and complicated issue than the little corner electronics shop charging a very modest repair fee to keep their equipment running, staff trained, lights on and putting food on the table for the technician's family.
@@Rchelicopterfun Everything you listed is true. And of course I didn't think that the citizens would pay for it with taxes! That would be counter productive. My thought was that companies that use such "non-repairable" methods Pay an additional contribution to the state for repairs or recycling that they do not want to support. Whether it's spare parts, electronics blueprints, software updates or 3D models for printing spare parts. This money is kept separate from taxes and used for repairs and recycling of their such products. If they do not take care of their products, the copyright to the product is taken from them or the license for sales in the country is taken away, but they can make them accessible to repair services. Even if we start building recycling centers now, they will not have a large enough capacity for the next 20 years, and by then there will be too much waste electronics in landfills. I can fix certain things myself, but I always try to take it to a professional for repair first. However, it is getting harder to pay the repair prices year after year. I try to stick to what I know I can fix myself, but social and industry standards are quite aggressive and don't give me many alternatives. Anything older than 1 year is already out of fashion, but 3 years or more is old and has almost no software or repair support. Thanks for the conversation. Although we won't solve anything, it's good to hear similar thoughts.
Why not replace all the electrolyte caps while you got it open?
No reason to