Great continuation on the tutorial! I agree 100 percent as I have found out on my adventures in this hobby as well... weathering is all about the build up of various layers. Camera is crystal clear leaving no guess work with these tutorials. Cheers!
Great tutorial! The lighting and stuff was really good man :) I did a similar method where I put on MiG pigments and then I put a mig wash over it which darkened and fixed it on. Different washes in different parts of a wheel gave me mud, dirt and dust when I only used 1 pigment :D Anyways great vid, the dust accumulation and streaks and really cool I'm gonna try that!
This is great mate I've got some idea how to tackle my chally 2 that's been on hold for a couple of months not knowing how to tackle the weathering so thanks mate.
i wish i could do this you make it look easy. i have just brought every weathering product mig sell including muds and pigments. i need to learn how to do this
Nice video! Thanks for taking the time. How do you bind your pigment on once you're content with the appearance? If I try to spray binder on I end up blowing off most of the pigment even with very little pressure on the regulator. I am apprehensive about trying to brush on a binding agent thinking it would smear and run my pigments.
Nice video, pretty new to the hobby myself (after 15 year break) How do you seal it all in when you're done, especially the dusting effects? Do you use a dull coat to lock it in? And for acrylics after applying a dull coat can you use rubbing alcohol as a thinner?
If you want a very fine mist of enamel thinnef from an airbrush can be used to set the pigments, but youve got a 50/50 shot of wrecking the effect. Use the thinner specific to the brand to thin fof best results.
Superb video, brother, not only the actual process but the commentary as well...Perhaps the two best words of wisdom were saved for the end: weathering is a layering process, not something you do in one sitting; make sure the weathering matches the environment your subject was in...great great stuff...I think you can attribute your skills and success to the longevity of your marriage, right? That was very funny, and the story about Michael's was spot on!!! Have a great weekend coming up...
Loving the tutorials and could not agree more the OD green needs something I will be trying this with my cheapo pastels, I might have to buy the good stuff so I can duplicate something I like. Ha micheals in my area they wear masks like robbers do, he'll I only go there with a fifty percent off coupon.
Can you please tell me what you coated your model with before you started using odourless thinners? I have painted my vehicle with Tamiya and Gunze-Sangyo and I need a tough coat to withstand the onslaught of turpentine. I also want it to go through my airbrush because I don't like rattle cans. Last time I tried using artist's oils or thinners was an epic fail. Yeah, I should have tested more before I tried it for real.
TheThirdMan Tamiya paint ia really tough if thinned with Tamiya X20A thinner. Clear coat is Tamiya X22 well thinned with X20A. Pigments will not adhere well to gloss so I use Vallejo flat or satin over the Tamiya. When fixing the pigments use a low pressure from a distance and lightly mist the thinner over the pigments to set them.
Thanks so much for your reply but I'm a bit confused. Why would acrylic be tougher than enamel? Wouldn't it be better to use X-22 thinned with Tamiya enamel thinner? I mean, I'm happy to try your method so how long do you leave the washes on before you clean them off?
The acrylic top coat will not be affected by an enamel thinner at all. Thats why you can use enamel wash/filters over enamel color coats when you use and acrylic clear coat. X-20A Tamiya thinner is has been the best for me to thin Tamiya paints. Pin Washes are virtually dry when I clean then up. I have a video on pin washes too.
Okay. I have now seen your video about pin washes and believe it or not, I was actually headed in _exactly_ that direction. I even have the Tamiya panel line accent stuff and some X-22 and X-20A thinner. So I'm good to go. Cheers!
@@ScaleModelAlberta if I do this effect before theatt finish and then apply a layer of Matt varnish after the effect is done , is the varnish gonna change the color of the pigments dry brushed on tank ?
Awesome stuff and thanks for sharing your talents with us my brother! Btw....Love the way that Tank is coming along!
---Gilbert
Appreciate that Gilbert.
Great continuation on the tutorial!
I agree 100 percent as I have found out on my adventures in this hobby as well... weathering is all about the build up of various layers.
Camera is crystal clear leaving no guess work with these tutorials.
Cheers!
Great vid, I just got back into the hobby, loving it so far. I'm in Calgary. I'll be watching your vids regularly hah
I am a beginner modeller and this tutorial is so entertaining & fun ! ^__^ Awesome
Thanks very much for a great tutorial!
Not bad bud. Things are good. Busy, but good.
I'm enjoying the increase in your vids ;) you're spoiling us haha.
More to come. Back to work for November :( so I want to get lots of stuff done in the next two weeks.
Great tutorial! The lighting and stuff was really good man :) I did a similar method where I put on MiG pigments and then I put a mig wash over it which darkened and fixed it on. Different washes in different parts of a wheel gave me mud, dirt and dust when I only used 1 pigment :D Anyways great vid, the dust accumulation and streaks and really cool I'm gonna try that!
Yup pigments are super versatile.
Panzermeister36 b
That was a really great tutorial C.
Fine stuff bud. Thoroughly enjoyed it. :)
Hey Buddy good to hear from you. How are you keeping?
This is great mate I've got some idea how to tackle my chally 2 that's been on hold for a couple of months not knowing how to tackle the weathering so thanks mate.
I'm new for scale models. How does the sand effect settle on the model, and not be rubbed off?
Thanks for sharing ! love the new Angle and lighting... Good work !
Thanks Norm, love the new camera.
Excellent stuff glockster. Thanks for sharing always keen to try new techniques as you know
Thanks Mark.
Enjoyed this!
Sweet, thanks for this. I've never seen weathering with powders before!
+Prince OvCrows Appreciate it thanks for watching. Check out the entire series.
Sure will do!
Fantastic vid!
The Best tank!!! Wow!!! Super!!!
Great tank! Did you use anything to fixate the dust effects? Won't if rub off through handling the model etc?
i wish i could do this you make it look easy. i have just brought every weathering product mig sell including muds and pigments. i need to learn how to do this
Thanks for watching. The secret is, practice and try different styles to find out what works best for you.
Nice video! Thanks for taking the time.
How do you bind your pigment on once you're content with the appearance? If I try to spray binder on I end up blowing off most of the pigment even with very little pressure on the regulator. I am apprehensive about trying to brush on a binding agent thinking it would smear and run my pigments.
Low pressure, and back way off, mist the fixative from at least 12-18" away from the model.
Alex here beautiful job on that tank really really like the effects
Thanks Alex.
Great tutorial!
Thanks Alex.
nice one man :-) it's coming up great...looking forward to see it in full weathering...all the best
Its damn near done.
Nice video, pretty new to the hobby myself (after 15 year break)
How do you seal it all in when you're done, especially the dusting effects? Do you use a dull coat to lock it in? And for acrylics after applying a dull coat can you use
rubbing alcohol as a thinner?
If you want a very fine mist of enamel thinnef from an airbrush can be used to set the pigments, but youve got a 50/50 shot of wrecking the effect. Use the thinner specific to the brand to thin fof best results.
so how do i do smoke effect's with pigments im new to all this
excellent - thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching.
Superb video, brother, not only the actual process but the commentary as well...Perhaps the two best words of wisdom were saved for the end: weathering is a layering process, not something you do in one sitting; make sure the weathering matches the environment your subject was in...great great stuff...I think you can attribute your skills and success to the longevity of your marriage, right? That was very funny, and the story about Michael's was spot on!!! Have a great weekend coming up...
Been married 22 years with a 2 year break at the 12 year mark :) Thanks for watching Tommy.
Great tutorial and awesome channel. Just subbed. Cheers Dan
Thanks man.
Would pastel work just as good? I don't think I could get these mig pigments
They do. But have more carrier in them so the pigment does nor adhere as well and the colors are not as rich.
Loving the tutorials and could not agree more the OD green needs something I will be trying this with my cheapo pastels, I might have to buy the good stuff so I can duplicate something I like. Ha micheals in my area they wear masks like robbers do, he'll I only go there with a fifty percent off coupon.
Been there done that. Lots of filler and binding agents in the cheap stuff so it can be tougher to work with though.
Great how too vid man
Thanks.
Can you please tell me what you coated your model with before you started using odourless thinners? I have painted my vehicle with Tamiya and Gunze-Sangyo and I need a tough coat to withstand the onslaught of turpentine. I also want it to go through my airbrush because I don't like rattle cans. Last time I tried using artist's oils or thinners was an epic fail. Yeah, I should have tested more before I tried it for real.
TheThirdMan
Tamiya paint ia really tough if thinned with Tamiya X20A thinner. Clear coat is Tamiya X22 well thinned with X20A. Pigments will not adhere well to gloss so I use Vallejo flat or satin over the Tamiya. When fixing the pigments use a low pressure from a distance and lightly mist the thinner over the pigments to set them.
Thanks so much for your reply but I'm a bit confused. Why would acrylic be tougher than enamel? Wouldn't it be better to use X-22 thinned with Tamiya enamel thinner? I mean, I'm happy to try your method so how long do you leave the washes on before you clean them off?
The acrylic top coat will not be affected by an enamel thinner at all. Thats why you can use enamel wash/filters over enamel color coats when you use and acrylic clear coat. X-20A Tamiya thinner is has been the best for me to thin Tamiya paints. Pin Washes are virtually dry when I clean then up. I have a video on pin washes too.
ScaleModelAlberta So will it stand up to turpentine-based washes? Thanks for this. I will look at the other video you recommended.
Okay. I have now seen your video about pin washes and believe it or not, I was actually headed in _exactly_ that direction. I even have the Tamiya panel line accent stuff and some X-22 and X-20A thinner. So I'm good to go. Cheers!
Hello, is the model Matt varnished before applying all these pigment dust effects ?
Jerry Zhang Yes it is. Matt finish helps the pigment adhere better.
@@ScaleModelAlberta if I do this effect before theatt finish and then apply a layer of Matt varnish after the effect is done , is the varnish gonna change the color of the pigments dry brushed on tank ?
Jerry Zhang The matt coat will pretty much destroy the pigments.
@@ScaleModelAlberta oh ok thanks
Tank Piant good set :) (A)
2:35/3:25
Looper for TH-cam "Chrome Web Store" - Search the store
Wow! You're like the Bob Ross of pigments
+DatAmazingCheese Thanks man, I appreciate that.