I´m a qualified tool maker, now retired and with a lot of time at hand. So, I decided to start working with wood for the first time, and occupy my free time. So, just got my first router table. Your video is EXCELLENT and was extremely helpful for a beginner like myself, so thank you!
Just got my new router table today. I'm good with tools, but I have never used a router before, much less a router table. Your video was extremely helpful for a beginner, so thank you!
Knowledge is power, we only fear what we do not know or understand. I'd advise running through the motions with the router turned off. Make sure you are feeding the timber in opposition to the direction of the router bit rotation.
The whole idea of using a router table for cutting off a thickness of wood or flattening a side is ridiculous. By the time someone is investing in a router table, they most likely have a table saw. I would love to see how the last part of the board stays straight at the end of the cut. Ya know... as the edge that is against the fence gets smaller and smaller to the point that there is less than an inch against the fence. How would you keep it straight at the end of the cut? I suppose you could use double sided tape to attach the wood you are cutting to a straight edged board and use a straight cut router but with a guide bearing. If you don't have a table saw and are thinking of getting a router... STOP. With a table saw, you can straighten the edge of a board. You can size the board. You can square the sides of the board. You can cut up to a 45 degree chamfer. You can cut rabbit slots, dadoes and so on. There are things that are done better with a router. There are things routers can do that table saws can not. BUT... IMO... a table saw is much more useful to a wood worker than a router table. Just don't get a Ryobi table saw... they are not good for many reasons. I made that mistake. You want 2 channels, a solid fence that stays straight, and a fully adjustable blade.
You can offset the fences on a router table in the same way as jointer tables are offset. That's how you can remove a few millimeters off the face of a board resting up against the fence and keep it straight near the end of the cut.
The video was discussing the perils of using a climb cut on a router table. If you know what you are doing, then you don't need to understand this video.
Ignorant enough to set up my table for a cut between the fence and blade but smart enough to research it first before I made the cut and glad i did. 😂. Thanks mate for this video!
@@kuffyswoodworktipsandtalk it made sense because I was looking to clean up a flat edge. So my thought was the router table isn’t like a jointer where the fence on the front side matches the blade height so I first thought I’ll just have the blade on the outside. Until I seen this. Lol. Thanks. I thought about using some spacers/washers on the front fence.
Thank you for an excellent demonstration and explanation , which was very well presented . You are a good teacher, and because I now understand the ‘why’ and the logic behind using a router table, I will remember it . 😊
Clamping bits- leave a small piece of foam rubber at the bottom of the collet. No need to fuss when inserting bits. Bearing bits- the workpiece SHOULD touch the bearing- that is what it is for! If you space it off you are defeating the object.
@@kuffyswoodworktipsandtalk Are in the north or south of your country? I live in the NE of the USA. I wear long underwear from December to April. Sometimes, I need two layers of long underwear. Tomorrow it will be 22F 70 miles north of NYC, which will be far warmer than the upper Midwest where wind chills could be -50F. You do the conversion. I hate cold. I would rather it be 110F as at least I can be outside. Cold and snow forces you to stay inside, sometimes for days. I could get used to where you live!
I'm in the south east (Melbourne). Unlike where you are, the coldest days in winter are about 9°C (48°F). It can be uncomfortable, but it's not life threatening. Rarely does it drop beliw freezing during the nights.
@@kuffyswoodworktipsandtalk I could definitely learn to love that climate. In 1827, my ancestor decided to emigrate from England to upstate New York. The town he settled in was in the "snowbelt". It seemed like it was always below freezing, some days were below zero F, and there was always a foot of snow on the ground. I remember waking up a couple of times to 3' snowstorms overnight. As kids, it was fun, but as an adult, I hate snow and cold. Because of my ancestor's decision almost 200 years ago, I have had to "deal with it". Maybe your ancestor was a criminal and was deported to Australia and didn't have a choice, but it seems whatever your ancestor did, you are in the right place.
THIS VIDEO IS GREAT. I've been following the direction of feed printed on the table - unconditionally. And I've been assuming that the solution to its murdrous tendencies has been more fences, more pressure, from more angles, MORE CONTROL... It's been driving my blood pressure through the roof becauae I'm always moving at a snails pace waiting for it to explode. DO RABBETS AND TENONS NEXT!! How do I keep those from getting spit out on the tail end when the bit finally breaks through the back of the piece?
Ah ok. I can demonstrate how to prevent the timber from splitting out as the cut finishes. The answer is to have a waste piece behind your board so the fibers are supported.
A lot of people buy a ready to go router table, just like they buy their bandsaws or table saws. It's not uncommon that they don't know how these machines work before buying, and the simplest thing like feed direction catches them out easily.
Great question. A featherboard provides consistent pressure towards the fence, or down onto the table. Consistent pressure results in a cleaner cut. It also allows fingers to be kept well away from the cutter if you're nervous about that stuff.
I was doing some routing on my table the other day and was having all kinds of weird problems. After stopping and examining things I realized that I was going the wrong direction on the table. What happened was I used the feather board that was on my table saw and it has an arrow in it and it was pointing the wrong way for my router. I had to take the feather board apart and flip the part with the "feathers" over and the arrow now pointed the right way. I had been doing some routing earlier without a fence, so I was going in the same direction, but the wood was on the other side of the bit. I will definitely be thinking a little more about what direction I should be going in the future. I will also be getting feather boards that will only be used on my router.
That's a common problem you had. It's exactly why I speak about feeding the timber in opposition to the rotation of the router bit. I don't speak of following arrows on jigs and fixtures because they are not always correct.
Glad I found this video because I tried remove a certen amount of wood and I put the work between the fence and bit and fed it threw right to left and it jumped up and bounced around because I had the guard down it stopped it flying up and forawd and stopped my hand being dragged in the blade thanks for explaining why this happend
Very good explanation of the proper router table usage. Only thing I dont like is that you need to open cabinet door to stop the router, does not seems to be as the safest way.
Correct, thanks. I'm probably going to rebuild my router table at some point. I'll add an emergency stop button that can be easily activated with my knees.
Thanks for this video, safety tips are well apreciated. Because I was entertaining the idea of buying a router table for my future projects, I've seen dozens of videos on TH-cam about router tables. In all the examples, nobody was wearing any gloves for protection for their hands. Thick gloves would have prevented some accidents that some woodworkers have experienced. Safety first.
Actually, it is quite the opposite. Gloves increase the probability of a serious accident occurring when operating rotary equipment such as a router table. The problem is the rotation of the bit actually grabs onto the glove and pulls more of your hand into the bit. I personally use gloves to increase my grip, but I do so knowing that I am elevating my risk profile.
One point of safety point. Mark the direction of bit rotation with sharpies or engraver. In the shop you tend to go from hand held use to tabled use... Lexdyslic mistakes happen.
Excellent video! Years ago, I experienced some of these bad situations without harm to myself or the shop. I would suggest a magnetic on/off switch so you can turn off the router by using your leg and without taking you eyes and hands off the router table to reach below the table. It works great and increases personal safety!
Agreed. I've been a big proponent of having emergency stops located in a position which can be easily activated with our knees. I have loose plans of rebuilding my router table, so I'll probably put a magnetic switch in then.
Thanks for sharing this valuable demonstration for safety, I will keep it in mind as I already knew from you why should I do not do that mistakes as beginner. 👍
Using a router by hand is relatively safe. You might get the odd scare every now and then, but you'll probably come away without any scars. On the other hand, the router table can remove a finger in a blink of an eye. The best bet is to physically restrict your hands from being able to reach the spinning router bit by using lots of guards, but I understand why people rarely do this (I'm one that rarely guards my machines).
What a poor explanation at the beginning of this video as to how to fit a cutter into a collet. He does get it in correctly but there is no way a collet will pull the cutter downwards into the machine. The reason an air gap is left between the end of the cutter and the base of the collet is to protect the main bearing from heat. A router bit gets extremely hot in use and if the cutter is bottomed out in the collet that heat is transferred into the main bearing of your machine. Do that often enough and there is a good chance you will burn out your machine as the bearing begins to fail.
What you failed to mention in your demonstration of kickback on the router table is how the wood was 'clamped' between the fence and cutter and your long strip of wood. So the piece of wood could not move away from the cutter. Thank you for showing this
Yes exactly. The strip of wood was roleplaying pretending to be my hands. My hands would do the same thing as the strip of wood, but it would make an icky mess 🤣
Very informative, thank you! I was also wondering however, is it safe to lower a board on top of the bit and then proceed to feed it through (left to right)?
Left to right would be a climb cut and the board may be ripped from your hands. Going right to left is much better, but lowering a piece on top of a spinning bit has the potential for some pretty silly accidents. With that said, I lower boards onto the cutter often enough. Sometimes I drop the board and break my router bit as a result, but I continue to do it anyway 🤷♂️
Top marks for presentation and content. Safety is paramount in the work shop and you explained it well. Your demos did the rest. Any one that hurts themselves or others in the work shop after watching you, should not be in a work shop. 👍
The fence allows for faster work, given the greater level of control. Also, the pressure from the bearing on the timber creates a slight indentation in the edge of the wood.
I wish router manufacturers were required to link to this video so buyers could say ‘nah I’m good’. I knew I wasn’t good, but I didn’t know just how not good I was. Thanks!!
Wow, thank you very good information about the direction of the router cutting edge and the proper way to place the wood against the fence of the router table. Again, thank you very good helpful and safety information Paul from New York.
It seems the another problem putting the board between the fence and the cutter is the side force put on the router and the bit. Since both the fence and router are set solid, it would put some force against the bit. It may not mess it up right away. But the side force would not be good for the bearings in the router or the shaft of the bit. Of course, the feather board would help.
Correct. When you apply too much lateral force to the bit or the bearing guide, you will snap the shank or burn up the bearing until the outer bearing ring separates. The bearings inside the router body are generally pretty good because they are fixed in at least 2 points so it doesn't flex much, if at all.
Your thicknesser / router demo was spot on . I was told never to do it for obvious reasons . Never done it or seen it happen . Excellent reminder behind the theory .
Fantastic lesson. Yesterday was my first time using router table. I was trying to figure what I’m doing wrong. From the get go of your video I was doing things wrong already up to the cutting part. Thanks a lot for making this video. Going to practice again today applying what I learned from you. Valuable lesson I learned.
@@kuffyswoodworktipsandtalk yes. Thanks you. I now understand my mistakes, your examples and explanation what will be the danger and result if not done correct makes sense to me now. Been practicing, I have confidence at this point. I honestly, my first day on the router I was kind a disappointed, going throw the towel, good I saw your video. It is a valuable lesson to people like me. Appreciate it. From California, USA 🇺🇸
I chose a small, lightweight piece of timber for a reason 😂 A heavier piece has a chance of breaking the router bit, which is usually uneventful but expensive.
I haven't done a video on router kickback. It's a good idea to do a video on this topic, so I will. Kickback with routers is actually 'accidental climb cutting' when template routing. I'll demonstrate how it occurs, and how to minimise the chances of it occuring.
Absolutely! I'm a big believer in seeing what happens when we do the wrong thing. It's all good and well to say "don't do this, or else you will get hurt", but seeing is believing!
I´m a qualified tool maker, now retired and with a lot of time at hand. So, I decided to start working with wood for the first time, and occupy my free time. So, just got my first router table. Your video is EXCELLENT and was extremely helpful for a beginner like myself, so thank you!
Very well done - thank you!!!
Just got my new router table today. I'm good with tools, but I have never used a router before, much less a router table. Your video was extremely helpful for a beginner, so thank you!
Thanks mate. Be careful, stay safe and have fun.
Very helpful!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Okay, now im terrified to use my new router table
Knowledge is power, we only fear what we do not know or understand. I'd advise running through the motions with the router turned off. Make sure you are feeding the timber in opposition to the direction of the router bit rotation.
The whole idea of using a router table for cutting off a thickness of wood or flattening a side is ridiculous. By the time someone is investing in a router table, they most likely have a table saw. I would love to see how the last part of the board stays straight at the end of the cut. Ya know... as the edge that is against the fence gets smaller and smaller to the point that there is less than an inch against the fence. How would you keep it straight at the end of the cut? I suppose you could use double sided tape to attach the wood you are cutting to a straight edged board and use a straight cut router but with a guide bearing.
If you don't have a table saw and are thinking of getting a router... STOP. With a table saw, you can straighten the edge of a board. You can size the board. You can square the sides of the board. You can cut up to a 45 degree chamfer. You can cut rabbit slots, dadoes and so on. There are things that are done better with a router. There are things routers can do that table saws can not. BUT... IMO... a table saw is much more useful to a wood worker than a router table. Just don't get a Ryobi table saw... they are not good for many reasons. I made that mistake. You want 2 channels, a solid fence that stays straight, and a fully adjustable blade.
You can offset the fences on a router table in the same way as jointer tables are offset. That's how you can remove a few millimeters off the face of a board resting up against the fence and keep it straight near the end of the cut.
@@kuffyswoodworktipsandtalk ah yeah, didn't think of that. Great point.
Your video is terribly confusing. I've used routers and bits, safely and effectively for years, and your. video has me entirely confused.
The video was discussing the perils of using a climb cut on a router table. If you know what you are doing, then you don't need to understand this video.
Thank you for such an excellent instruction video. Being a novice myself, this video will certainly serve as a safety check for me. Much appreciated.
Excellent, I hope this information will keep your hands safe.
Ignorant enough to set up my table for a cut between the fence and blade but smart enough to research it first before I made the cut and glad i did. 😂. Thanks mate for this video!
It's one of those things which seem so harmless, until it rips the board from your hands!
@@kuffyswoodworktipsandtalk it made sense because I was looking to clean up a flat edge. So my thought was the router table isn’t like a jointer where the fence on the front side matches the blade height so I first thought I’ll just have the blade on the outside. Until I seen this. Lol. Thanks.
I thought about using some spacers/washers on the front fence.
Thank you for an excellent demonstration and explanation , which was very well presented . You are a good teacher, and because I now understand the ‘why’ and the logic behind using a router table, I will remember it . 😊
Why? Is the most important question.
Clamping bits- leave a small piece of foam rubber at the bottom of the collet. No need to fuss when inserting bits.
Bearing bits- the workpiece SHOULD touch the bearing- that is what it is for! If you space it off you are defeating the object.
I've never bothered about placing a small rubber o-ring or foam at the bottom of the collet. It's a good hack though.
Very nice video.
11:01- I literally jumped! Great video, thank you 🙏
Haha, it's gone in a flash. At least it's not our fingers.
Thanks mate, always good to be reminded of these things. We may know them but it’s easy to not think about them sometimes 👍🏻
Hehe yup. Somethings seem like the greatest idea ever until the board goes flying across the room.
Great video. I learned something, because you showed what happened very well. By the way, do Aussies always wear shorts? 😀
I personally wear shorts at work every day of the year. Some of the softer guys at work wear pants during winter 😂
@@kuffyswoodworktipsandtalk Are in the north or south of your country? I live in the NE of the USA. I wear long underwear from December to April. Sometimes, I need two layers of long underwear. Tomorrow it will be 22F 70 miles north of NYC, which will be far warmer than the upper Midwest where wind chills could be -50F. You do the conversion. I hate cold. I would rather it be 110F as at least I can be outside. Cold and snow forces you to stay inside, sometimes for days. I could get used to where you live!
I'm in the south east (Melbourne). Unlike where you are, the coldest days in winter are about 9°C (48°F). It can be uncomfortable, but it's not life threatening. Rarely does it drop beliw freezing during the nights.
@@kuffyswoodworktipsandtalk I could definitely learn to love that climate. In 1827, my ancestor decided to emigrate from England to upstate New York. The town he settled in was in the "snowbelt". It seemed like it was always below freezing, some days were below zero F, and there was always a foot of snow on the ground. I remember waking up a couple of times to 3' snowstorms overnight. As kids, it was fun, but as an adult, I hate snow and cold. Because of my ancestor's decision almost 200 years ago, I have had to "deal with it". Maybe your ancestor was a criminal and was deported to Australia and didn't have a choice, but it seems whatever your ancestor did, you are in the right place.
THIS VIDEO IS GREAT. I've been following the direction of feed printed on the table - unconditionally. And I've been assuming that the solution to its murdrous tendencies has been more fences, more pressure, from more angles, MORE CONTROL... It's been driving my blood pressure through the roof becauae I'm always moving at a snails pace waiting for it to explode.
DO RABBETS AND TENONS NEXT!! How do I keep those from getting spit out on the tail end when the bit finally breaks through the back of the piece?
Ah ok. I can demonstrate how to prevent the timber from splitting out as the cut finishes. The answer is to have a waste piece behind your board so the fibers are supported.
Gracias ....muchas gracias.
Buena explicación.🇵🇪
I mean, if you’re spending hundreds making a router table, and you don’t have the first clue how it works, you deserve everything you get.
A lot of people buy a ready to go router table, just like they buy their bandsaws or table saws. It's not uncommon that they don't know how these machines work before buying, and the simplest thing like feed direction catches them out easily.
So, inserting the wood from right to left makes a featherboard completely useless. Right?
How about a featherboard on top of the wood?
Great question. A featherboard provides consistent pressure towards the fence, or down onto the table. Consistent pressure results in a cleaner cut. It also allows fingers to be kept well away from the cutter if you're nervous about that stuff.
I was doing some routing on my table the other day and was having all kinds of weird problems. After stopping and examining things I realized that I was going the wrong direction on the table. What happened was I used the feather board that was on my table saw and it has an arrow in it and it was pointing the wrong way for my router. I had to take the feather board apart and flip the part with the "feathers" over and the arrow now pointed the right way. I had been doing some routing earlier without a fence, so I was going in the same direction, but the wood was on the other side of the bit. I will definitely be thinking a little more about what direction I should be going in the future. I will also be getting feather boards that will only be used on my router.
That's a common problem you had. It's exactly why I speak about feeding the timber in opposition to the rotation of the router bit. I don't speak of following arrows on jigs and fixtures because they are not always correct.
Glad I found this video because I tried remove a certen amount of wood and I put the work between the fence and bit and fed it threw right to left and it jumped up and bounced around because I had the guard down it stopped it flying up and forawd and stopped my hand being dragged in the blade thanks for explaining why this happend
Knowing why things happen is the first defense against accidents. Guards run a very close second.
Mate, thank you so much, so clearly explained!!! Router was a big challenge for me and now I know why. Thank you so much, very helpful.
Thanks, I'm glad you found this useful.
Thank you , one your explanations on router feeds , i corrected my mistakes ,, very helpful sir.
You're welcome 😊
Nicely done!
(Although "thicknesser" confused me for a moment. :) )
Haha, that's what I've always called it, because it brings the boards down to thickness....by planing them 😄
I just learned how to use my new router table, my fingers would like to thanks you for saving them from dangerous situations!
You're welcome, stay safe 👍
Very good explanation of the proper router table usage. Only thing I dont like is that you need to open cabinet door to stop the router, does not seems to be as the safest way.
Correct, thanks. I'm probably going to rebuild my router table at some point. I'll add an emergency stop button that can be easily activated with my knees.
Thanks for your explanation- it was helpful for me. Appreciated.
Thanks mate. It's good to know that it was helpful for you.
Thank you for this ,I'm new to using a router ,I will make sure I adhere to the correct feed position, many thanks 👍
You are welcome. I'm glad it was helpful for you.
Thanks for this video, safety tips are well apreciated. Because I was entertaining the idea of buying a router table for my future projects, I've seen dozens of videos on TH-cam about router tables. In all the examples, nobody was wearing any gloves for protection for their hands. Thick gloves would have prevented some accidents that some woodworkers have experienced. Safety first.
Actually, it is quite the opposite. Gloves increase the probability of a serious accident occurring when operating rotary equipment such as a router table. The problem is the rotation of the bit actually grabs onto the glove and pulls more of your hand into the bit. I personally use gloves to increase my grip, but I do so knowing that I am elevating my risk profile.
@@kuffyswoodworktipsandtalk Thank you, when I get my router table, soon, I'll experiment to see which is the better-safer method.
I mark the direction the router turns with a black marker pen on the fence just in case I want to do something stupid .
That's a good idea 💡
Exactly what I needed, but I don't have to throw boards around our shop to demonstrate it now. 🙃❤❤
Perfect 👌
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Nuff said sir… 👍🏻 👏🏻 🙇♂️
You're very welcome 🙏 Thanks for watching.
One point of safety point.
Mark the direction of bit rotation with sharpies or engraver.
In the shop you tend to go from hand held use to tabled use... Lexdyslic mistakes happen.
Fair point. It's a good idea for beginners to get used to the difference between router table and hand held router feed direction.
Best explanation I have ever seen about why your router bit should not bottom out in the collet. Makes a lot of sense.
I'm glad it made sense. Often, I wonder if I'm speaking clearly enough.
thank you thank you thank you so much for this explanation ❤❤!!!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video! Years ago, I experienced some of these bad situations without harm to myself or the shop. I would suggest a magnetic on/off switch so you can turn off the router by using your leg and without taking you eyes and hands off the router table to reach below the table. It works great and increases personal safety!
Agreed. I've been a big proponent of having emergency stops located in a position which can be easily activated with our knees. I have loose plans of rebuilding my router table, so I'll probably put a magnetic switch in then.
Great video for beginners very good information. Thank you.
You're welcome.
Thanks for sharing this valuable demonstration for safety, I will keep it in mind as I already knew from you why should I do not do that mistakes as beginner. 👍
Very welcome
I have a full shop and the router is the one I worry about using wrong.
Using a router by hand is relatively safe. You might get the odd scare every now and then, but you'll probably come away without any scars. On the other hand, the router table can remove a finger in a blink of an eye. The best bet is to physically restrict your hands from being able to reach the spinning router bit by using lots of guards, but I understand why people rarely do this (I'm one that rarely guards my machines).
What a poor explanation at the beginning of this video as to how to fit a cutter into a collet. He does get it in correctly but there is no way a collet will pull the cutter downwards into the machine. The reason an air gap is left between the end of the cutter and the base of the collet is to protect the main bearing from heat. A router bit gets extremely hot in use and if the cutter is bottomed out in the collet that heat is transferred into the main bearing of your machine. Do that often enough and there is a good chance you will burn out your machine as the bearing begins to fail.
When you tighten the nut, it presses the collet further into the collet housing, dragging the bit with it. It's possible to bottom out the bit.
@@kuffyswoodworktipsandtalk can verify
Nice video. I figured there was more science to making best use of my router, your video is very enlightening 👍🏻
What you failed to mention in your demonstration of kickback on the router table is how the wood was 'clamped'
between the fence and cutter and your long strip of wood. So the piece of wood could not move away from the cutter.
Thank you for showing this
Yes exactly. The strip of wood was roleplaying pretending to be my hands. My hands would do the same thing as the strip of wood, but it would make an icky mess 🤣
Whew! Thanks for this educational video.
No problemo!
Very informative, thank you! I was also wondering however, is it safe to lower a board on top of the bit and then proceed to feed it through (left to right)?
Left to right would be a climb cut and the board may be ripped from your hands. Going right to left is much better, but lowering a piece on top of a spinning bit has the potential for some pretty silly accidents. With that said, I lower boards onto the cutter often enough. Sometimes I drop the board and break my router bit as a result, but I continue to do it anyway 🤷♂️
@@kuffyswoodworktipsandtalkI meant to say right to left 🤦🏻♂️ But I see, thanks for the reply.
Great video showing real life possibilities if you are not aware.
I do like your router table setup. Do you have build plans for that?
I don't have build plans for my router table. I'm considering rebuilding it so it looks nicer.
@@kuffyswoodworktipsandtalk looks nice enough already.
Hehe. I was thinking more along the lines of hardwood construction, possibly with some burl veneer for added bling 😜
Very useful my friend. Thanks..❤😊
Thankyou 🥰
very well explained. mucho thanko
Mucho gracias 👍
Top marks for presentation and content. Safety is paramount in the work shop and you explained it well. Your demos did the rest.
Any one that hurts themselves or others in the work shop after watching you, should not be in a work shop. 👍
Thanks. I've never had an apprentice seriously hurt themselves. Cuts and bruises sure, but no one impaled or severed limbs.
Excellent video!! And the demonstrations are extremely helpful. Thank you!
You're very welcome!
Thank you
But what if I WANT to design a router powered burglary deterrence machine? 🤔😂
Then you should reconsider what you want and just buy a gun :D
@@kuffyswoodworktipsandtalk Where's the fun in that?! 🤣
if you have a bearing on your router bit then using fence is pointless.
The fence allows for faster work, given the greater level of control. Also, the pressure from the bearing on the timber creates a slight indentation in the edge of the wood.
@@kuffyswoodworktipsandtalk got it , you right!
Thanks
Vrey good video, Thank You!
I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.
Great video mate, thank you!
Thanks for tuning in.
Thank you for making this video! I made some of the mistakes in your video and came here to figure out what I did wrong.
You're very welcome 🙏
Really instructive video, thank you very much from Canada.
Excellent advice, thanks!
You're welcome 😊
Thanks for the great video on router table safety. Very illustrative and easy to understand. 👍
Thanks 👍
👍 🙏
Good info friend. Thanks a lot!
Thanks mate 👍
Very helpful, thanks mate
No problem mate 👍
thanks - i learned something
I'm glad it was helpful 😌
I wish router manufacturers were required to link to this video so buyers could say ‘nah I’m good’.
I knew I wasn’t good, but I didn’t know just how not good I was.
Thanks!!
Hopefully this video will prevent some intrusive thoughts from causing timber to start flying.
Wow, thank you very good information about the direction of the router cutting edge and the proper way to place the wood against the fence of the router table. Again, thank you very good helpful and safety information Paul from New York.
No worries mate, glad it was helpful.
It seems the another problem putting the board between the fence and the cutter is the side force put on the router and the bit. Since both the fence and router are set solid, it would put some force against the bit. It may not mess it up right away. But the side force would not be good for the bearings in the router or the shaft of the bit. Of course, the feather board would help.
Correct. When you apply too much lateral force to the bit or the bearing guide, you will snap the shank or burn up the bearing until the outer bearing ring separates. The bearings inside the router body are generally pretty good because they are fixed in at least 2 points so it doesn't flex much, if at all.
Great safety video. Bad happens quick, especially at 22,000 RPM. Thank you.
Thanks
This video showing all the scenarios helped me lock in the why of “no wood between bit and fence” I learned in furniture making class.
It seems so safe and effective to have the timber between the fence and the bit...until the board goes flying across the room! 🤣
10:08 - I just bought my first router, yesterday I didn't know what I can do with it. Good to see this first, before starting using it. Thank you!
A router in the hands of a well trained and creative person is a very versatile tool.
Veeeery useful ! Thanks a lot, that’s really clear and pedagogic , well explained 👍🏻👍🏾
Thanks. You taught me a new word, pedagogic 👍
today i have learned
We never stop learning.
Lucky I watched this video before using a router. Thanks mate.
No worries mate 👍
THANKYOU. Just bought a router table and wanted to know the basics
Hopefully this will keep you out of harms way while you become a little more familiar with your router table.
Your thicknesser / router demo was spot on . I was told never to do it for obvious reasons . Never done it or seen it happen . Excellent reminder behind the theory .
At trade school, we learn the theory. Then, the teacher always showed us why 😁
Awesome content mate, really well explained.
Please put that screw back in your Router table fence tho 😉
Dammit, I didn't even see that missing screw. I bet it's been missing ever since I made the fence. Probably ran out of screws ;D
Beautiful explanation Kuffy, thanks mate.
Thanks Bob
Excellent information. I also use a feather board for extra measure.
It's pretty rare that I bother to setup a feather board, but they sure are nice when I do use them.
Very very good explanation of what not to do and why. Thank You.
Thanks 😊
Fantastic lesson. Yesterday was my first time using router table. I was trying to figure what I’m doing wrong. From the get go of your video I was doing things wrong already up to the cutting part. Thanks a lot for making this video. Going to practice again today applying what I learned from you.
Valuable lesson I learned.
Awesome. If you have any particular trouble, don't hesitate in asking for help.
@@kuffyswoodworktipsandtalk yes. Thanks you. I now understand my mistakes, your examples and explanation what will be the danger and result if not done correct makes sense to me now. Been practicing, I have confidence at this point. I honestly, my first day on the router I was kind a disappointed, going throw the towel, good I saw your video. It is a valuable lesson to people like me. Appreciate it. From California, USA 🇺🇸
good job
Thanks
Wow! Thanks for this. Well done demonstration.
Thanks
10:55 wow, I was just about to do this WITH A MUCH THICKER WOOD in my shop. Didn't know THAT is going to happen. Thanks for showing this!
I chose a small, lightweight piece of timber for a reason 😂 A heavier piece has a chance of breaking the router bit, which is usually uneventful but expensive.
@@kuffyswoodworktipsandtalk seriously... I'd rather lose a material/timber than a router bit 😭 once again, thank you!
Why would you do a cut this way?
First class lesson. Very clear and easy to understand. Thank you.
Thank you very much 🤩
This is the best all-around table router safety videos I have seen. Thank you for this.
Have you a video on router kickback?
I haven't done a video on router kickback. It's a good idea to do a video on this topic, so I will. Kickback with routers is actually 'accidental climb cutting' when template routing. I'll demonstrate how it occurs, and how to minimise the chances of it occuring.
@@kuffyswoodworktipsandtalk That's exactly the kind of issue I have been having, and it's cost me some scrap and a template (or two).
you’re missing a screw on that fence.
top, just to the left of the dust port
Haha, thanks! I quickly rushed out to check, and it surely is missing. Luckily there is about 100 other screws holding it together 🤣🤣
@@kuffyswoodworktipsandtalk
lol
Everyone has to watch this demonstration
Absolutely! I'm a big believer in seeing what happens when we do the wrong thing. It's all good and well to say "don't do this, or else you will get hurt", but seeing is believing!
Very good instruction. Thank you.
Thanks
Good demonstration. Great tips....
Thanks.
Brilliant explanation.
Many thanks!
Great router safety video! Don't see enough of these. 😊