This video is related to the repairs and work necessary to rectify the problem with your 2nd generation MDX that consumes oil due to factory defect/poor design.
heads up...do not use a timing belt kit from ebay even if they say 100% OEM honda because they are fake ....the tensioner fails snapping the timing belt and bent valves ...i have two MDXs and both failed in one week from each other .......my 04 had 3K MILES and my 2011 HAD 2K MILES
Use the Gates Racing Blue TB, it lasts 3X longer than OE. Acura went to Kevlar cogged belts in 2010. Gates went with the chords too in order to extend duty cycle. 200K+ plus miles on a belt,,,,,,, finally and way overdue. From Gates: Constructed of HNBR elastomeric composites, Gates Racing High-Performance Timing Belts are 300% stronger than stock belts and deliver up to three times the heat resistance. You can count on them to hold up to the rigors of high horsepower, even with interference engines.
JOSH: The front cylinder head valvetrain is dirtier because of the PCV system. The rear valve cover has the fresh air intake hose on it, while the front head has the PCV valve. That means fresh air flows into the rear head keeping it cooler and cleaner. Meanwhile the PCV valve is drawing all the hot blow-by (exhaust) from the crankcase into the front cylinder head. As for the intake plenum being caked in carbon, that comes from the EGR system constantly dumping exhaust into both intake tracks in an attempt to reduce emissions and engine displacement. Any motor oil pooled in the intake comes from the PCV routing. This can be reduced by cutting in a catch-can to the valvecover-to-plenum hose (if you want). Not much you can do about the other things.
Thank you for the time you took and sharing your work with us! My 11 MDX Adv has +150,000 miles and uses about 1.5 qts per 9000 mile oil change interval. I purchased the MDX used back in 2014 with 30,000 miles. Switched to full syn Mobil 1 oil with first oil change back in 2014. No change in my oil consumption level using Mobil 1 oil in +120,000 miles I put on her (always use +91 Octane from mostly Costco/Sam's club).
I bought my 2011 MDX 3 years ago with 138,000 miles. Noticed shortly after it was using oil @ a rate of 1Qt per 1000 miles. Yikes! Discovered this was a common problem for this generation but made some attempts to solve the issue. Changed pcv valve, nothing, used seafoam in the crankcase and gas, nothing. So I gave up for awhile till I was adding a Qt every third fill up or 600 miles. Hitting the web again I ran across Marvel Mystery Oil. Sounds interesting but still sceptical since seafoam didn’t phase it any. But the more I read about it and many old school mechanics swore by it, won’t hurt to try it. I was down a Quart at 5he time so I put a quart in crankcase and 8 Oz in the tank on each fill. And ran it for the last 1000 miles of my oil change. After that one time incident I am now at 3000 miles per Qt. I will definitely be treating my oil again with Marvel Mystery Oil and see if we get to no adding between oil changes. I am totally amazed. This stuff works.
the dealership uses conventional oil. Acura and Honda techs told me this. They buy the oil in bulk so they go as cheap as they can. I have free oil changes for life from Honda but I still choose to do them myself with sexy full synthetic Mobil one oil and filter. Made a HUGE difference in sludge. Personally anyway.
I own a 2008 Honda Accord with the 3.5 V6 and at around 105,000 miles I had to pull the heads off to change some valves because they got bent when some guys were trying to change the timing belt and they accidently turned the motor over when the cranshaft keyway was removed and of course the pistons and cams were out of time and smassed into each other. Unlike your motor,my motor was completely spotless inside mainly I think because I used Mobil one 5W-30 extended oil most of its life and before the so called keyboard experts say anything,in my opinion being a mechanic for 50 years and I have rebuilt thousands of motors of every kind and 5W-20 oil is far too thin for these V6 motors.If anyone bothers to do their research they will find that the only reason Honda started reccomending 5W-20 oil was because the EPA was putting pressure on them for better gas milage and thinner oil may gave you a mile or maybe even two per gallon at most but with substantailly reduced engine life and I have seen that over and over and anyone who dares to argue that doesnt know as much as they think they know.Anyway I got side tracked from the original reason I posted here which was that when I bought the car it had 30,000 miles on it already but it developed a head gasket leak so I had to pull the heads off to change them and I couldnt believe the amount of carbon in the combustion chambers and pistons and that was from the previous owner using whatever bulk crap oil the Honda dealer was putting in there. After I also cleaned out all the carbon and sludge from isnside the motor,I started using the mobil one 5W-30 and 75,000 miles later when I pulled the heads again to check for valve damage,the motor was absolutely spottless inside.
The issue is the original pistons are not the correct size so cleaning them is still going to have the same issue. There was a recall on this years ago and the replacement pistons are actually a different size which fixes the issue
@@zacattack45 as an automotive enthusiast, I have to disagree. It's BS that a modern engine designed and built with the best engineering and design available uses one quart of oil every thousand miles. My Nissan Titan with the 5.6 liter V8 doesn't use a drop of oil and a Toyota Tacoma I had with the 3.4 V6 NEVER used a drop of oil, even 150K miles on it.
@@JmanRx81 I’m not saying I love it and mine burns about a quart every 3 k miles. But It would not sway my decision to purchase the vehicle. My 2012 MDX drives like a dream and is great. Definitely annoying to have to manage for sure.
Hello again Josh! Question about Connecting Rod Bearing. Did you check your Connecting Rod Bearing clearance and did you replace any of them? I am in the process of installing the pistons but I got I hung up on this. Thanks again!
I did not check clearance. I replaced one bearing. I just ordered the same color coded bearing from Honda. If you replace any, you must get the exact color coded match to the old ones. The color of the bearing corresponds to its clearance. DO NOT MIX THEM UP.
My brother had the extended warranty, always dealer serviced. Just 6 months out of warranty his oil light went on. Engine had 1.5 quarts. That's when we found out about the ring problem. Did the test, he passed, they quoted him $7K. No warranty it even with the settlement. We tried fighting it since the dealer changed the oil all the time and never said a word about the consumption problem. Might tear into it myself. Did the heads need to be machined or was that just precautionary?
The heads had to go to the machine shop because of a broken timing belt that bent valves. This repair potentially could cost you only the amount to buy all necessary gaskets then just using the existing head bolts instead of getting new ones and then cleaning the existing pistons and piston rings back to as clean as possible before reassembly.
I used a SnapOn digital torque wrench for everything but the head bolts. For the headbolts I used a 1/2" eTork click-type wrench then used a torque angle gauge to do the final 90 degrees.
My 2022 Acura MDX burned 1.25 quarts of oil in 3,000 miles oil chang. With VCM active. I just deactivated the VCM to see in on 5,000 it changes the oil consumption till next oil change. With will be done every 5K
I’m in the middle of replacing valves from pistons hitting them and thought about also doing this but i see people replacing pistons and rings… so it’s ok to just replace the rings and clean the pistons? Also are the new rings an updated part from honda or will this happen again eventually
Did you have your VCM active the entire life of the car? I just deactivated mine. Hopefully the oil consumption stops. It just hit 5k And used 1.25 quarts in 3,000 miles not 5k
Hello Josh, I just want to let you know that I have successfully rebuild my engine and started without any issue. I really appreciated for your help! Thank you so much. Last question. Are you adding any additives to keep your engine and your fuel injectors staying cleaned?
So all you can do is clean the pistons including the drainback holes, replace the rings and change the oil with Mobile One every 3K miles? Is that the solution?
keep in mind, do not over 3k on oil changes. Low tension compression rings will keep burning oil rings. Bypass exhaust gasses will be cooking oil on them and forming carbon deposits again. You could add extra drain holes per piston side for oil drainage. It is good idea to change valve seals while heads are off. Also, did you change bearings?
I had to replace one connecting rod bearing just out of caution, but probably could have just reinstalled it. And yes I agree about the 3K mile oil change interval.
@@JmanRx81 also, you mentioned that oil pan was baked with oil deposits. This is for very same reason-low tension compression rings. Exhaust gases in oil pan will leave its mark.
Great job, Josh! I have a question regarding the pistons: The new piston's serial number is 13010-RKG-305 and it is stated to replace the 13010-RKG-E00. Do you have an idea if this is an updated design or not? The same applies for the piston rings.
I'm not certain as I did not replace the pistons. Only replaced the the rings. So perhaps the rings were redesigned to have higher tension so they don't allow as much blow-by. Again, not certain. I think it has more to do with changing the oil more often with a better oil than Honda was using and most certainly a better filter than Honda and changing it more often than what Acura states or by the oil life Monitor.
Hi Josh, how are your? Question. When you installed the front and rear heads on the block did you have any problem with the camshaft pulley not staying on TDC while the heads on the bench. Do you need to pre-tighten the valve adjusters so the camshaft pulley stay TDC before installing on the block? My camshaft pulley does not want to stay on TDC, it’s jumping between the numbers.
@@JmanRx81 ok. I know you can do a valve adjustment (or pre-adjustment) for the front head on the bench but how would you do the rear head pre-adjustment on the bench. Thanks!
I'm a day or two away from attempting this myself on an MDX with 190k. Have a bent valve so redoing the heads as well. Can't wait to see what's in there. Is there anything you'd do differently to make the disassembly/reassembly go smoother?
heads up...do not use a timing belt kit from ebay even if they say 100% OEM honda because they are fake ....the tensioner fails snapping the timing belt and bent valves ...i have two MDXs and both failed in one week from each other .......my 04 had 3K MILES and my 2011 HAD 2K MILES
Not just an Acura problem. I had a 2007 Audi A4 that had crappy piston rings. Burned oil and smoked like an offshore rig. Cost would have been $3k to swap out a used engine. Just poor sourcing and cutting corners by companies.
Hello Josh, I have more question. How did you clean the tip of the fuel injectors? Do you spray or dip the tip into Berryman carburetor cleaner. Thanks!
I didn't really. Mine were in good working condition. I just ran 2 full tanks of ethanol-free premium fuel with a bottle of fuel system cleaner each tank after I got it back together and running. I also changed the oil and filter 2 times after a few hundred miles. First time I checked the oil I almost shit myself because it didn't look like there was any oil on the dipstick, but it was perfectly fine. Just so clean I couldn't see it. Lol
Josh, Hi. I just found the front head gasket has oil seeping at the front corner next to the engine oil cap. It’s not too bad (just slightly wet with oil) but nevertheless I am disappointed with all the effort and careful planning and following the torquing spec in the service manual. Everything I used were OEM parts. Question. Did you reused the head bolts? I reused them. Is yours leak free?
Josh,,did you used (sprayed) Berryman carb cleaner on the rocker arm assembly and did you used brake cleaner to riot off? My front rocker arm assembly look pretty baked
@@JmanRx81 I see. I will remove the rocker arm assembly from the head and take the head with the valve to the machine shop. Do you think it’s OK to spray Berryman carb cleaner to clean the rocker arm assembly? I bought the chem-dip to sock the pistons.
By any chance, I have a P0175 and P0172 codes because I'm running rich on both banks on this engine. Do you know if there is a known culprit on that engine?
Not sure about that. If your engine is burning oil due to the oil consumption issue, it could be fouling your O2 sensors and maybe they just need to be replaced.
I used Berryman's Chem-dip. Comes in a 1 gallon can. Stiff bristle brush. Be careful though because the pistons are aluminum. I used a small flat blade screwdriver to clean the piston grooves after soaking the pistons first. BUT, you MUST be extremely careful doing this to avoid damaging the piston grooves. Otherwise just get a piston groove cleanout tool.
Another question. Did you replace EVERY gaskets? Can you list all the gaskets that you replaced (you don’t have to give me the part #). I have 2011 MDX and my exhaust valve on cylinder #1 has a hole. I will be removing both head and take them to the shop and I thought this is a good opportunity to replace the piston rings as well. When you removed the head did you remove it with the fuel injector base and catalyst attached?
@@JmanRx81 Their good to you because their cheap and the thought of buying a box of gloves puts you off so you double down because you don’t want to be ashamed
@@Dieselpwr WTAF are you even talking about. I use gloves when I want to. I don't use them when I don't want to. The fuck do you care? I'm not a professional technician.
@@starrider2352 I'm convinced 5W-20 oil is too thin for the J series engines and was only factory recommended fmto meet EPA MPG standards. I believe a 5W-30 will be better at keeping the carbon build-up on the piston rings to a lower level.
@@JmanRx81 I hope your right cause I seen your posting on NSXavierTV and he posted to someone adnanskillz 1234 who asked would using a thicker oil? "sorry to hear. I don’t think running a thicker oil would change anything and I wouldn’t want to mess with the recommended oil viscosity of 5W20. Going to a thicker grade oil and changing the cold and hot oil characteristics may have adverse affects on cold starts and normal operating temp. You may want to consider finding a used low mile 3.5L engine and just swapping it. You’ll spend more on a long block, but save a bunch on labor to swap it vs labor to overhaul your existing engine". cause I need to cancel my amazon order but I'll try it if you really believe it does seem to liquidy you might be right though. as Peter zeboroff in that chat agrees the same so let me try. as the oil dip sick almost has a slight fuel smell to it and I've never experienced that before on other vehicles but everything else is running smooth.
heads up...do not use a timing belt kit from ebay even if they say 100% OEM honda because they are fake ....the tensioner fails snapping the timing belt and bent valves ...i have two MDXs and both failed in one week from each other .......my 04 had 3K MILES and my 2011 HAD 2K MILES
Yep! Same thing happened to me, that's why I did all this work!
@@JmanRx81 amigo!!!! Podrías apoyarme con el torque de las bielas? No encuentro información alguna :(
Rock Auto Aisin kit FTW!
Use the Gates Racing Blue TB, it lasts 3X longer than OE. Acura went to Kevlar cogged belts in 2010. Gates went with the chords too in order to extend duty cycle. 200K+ plus miles on a belt,,,,,,, finally and way overdue.
From Gates:
Constructed of HNBR elastomeric composites, Gates Racing High-Performance Timing Belts are 300% stronger than stock belts and deliver up to three times the heat resistance. You can count on them to hold up to the rigors of high horsepower, even with interference engines.
JOSH: The front cylinder head valvetrain is dirtier because of the PCV system. The rear valve cover has the fresh air intake hose on it, while the front head has the PCV valve. That means fresh air flows into the rear head keeping it cooler and cleaner. Meanwhile the PCV valve is drawing all the hot blow-by (exhaust) from the crankcase into the front cylinder head.
As for the intake plenum being caked in carbon, that comes from the EGR system constantly dumping exhaust into both intake tracks in an attempt to reduce emissions and engine displacement.
Any motor oil pooled in the intake comes from the PCV routing. This can be reduced by cutting in a catch-can to the valvecover-to-plenum hose (if you want). Not much you can do about the other things.
Yes, I discovered all this after this. Lol
@@JmanRx81 Great video BTW. Thanks for making it.
Thank you for the time you took and sharing your work with us! My 11 MDX Adv has +150,000 miles and uses about 1.5 qts per 9000 mile oil change interval. I purchased the MDX used back in 2014 with 30,000 miles. Switched to full syn Mobil 1 oil with first oil change back in 2014. No change in my oil consumption level using Mobil 1 oil in +120,000 miles I put on her (always use +91 Octane from mostly Costco/Sam's club).
1 year update: still does not consume any oil between oil changes.
That is good news! What is your oil change interval?
@@hchhon 3 to 5k miles
Good to know about this. I was looking at these. My 3.5 in my 06 ridgeline doesn't burn a drop @213k.
I bought my 2011 MDX 3 years ago with 138,000 miles. Noticed shortly after it was using oil @ a rate of 1Qt per 1000 miles. Yikes! Discovered this was a common problem for this generation but made some attempts to solve the issue. Changed pcv valve, nothing, used seafoam in the crankcase and gas, nothing. So I gave up for awhile till I was adding a Qt every third fill up or 600 miles. Hitting the web again I ran across Marvel Mystery Oil. Sounds interesting but still sceptical since seafoam didn’t phase it any. But the more I read about it and many old school mechanics swore by it, won’t hurt to try it. I was down a Quart at 5he time so I put a quart in crankcase and 8 Oz in the tank on each fill. And ran it for the last 1000 miles of my oil change. After that one time incident I am now at 3000 miles per Qt. I will definitely be treating my oil again with Marvel Mystery Oil and see if we get to no adding between oil changes. I am totally amazed. This stuff works.
Amazing!
the dealership uses conventional oil. Acura and Honda techs told me this. They buy the oil in bulk so they go as cheap as they can. I have free oil changes for life from Honda but I still choose to do them myself with sexy full synthetic Mobil one oil and filter. Made a HUGE difference in sludge. Personally anyway.
Interesting! I don't doubt it and it absolutely could be responsible for the carbon buildup on the rings.
The exhaust system was NOT a pain to put back in place. Totally worth it to move it out of the way.
I own a 2008 Honda Accord with the 3.5 V6 and at around 105,000 miles I had to pull the heads off to change some valves because they got bent when some guys were trying to change the timing belt and they accidently turned the motor over when the cranshaft keyway was removed and of course the pistons and cams were out of time and smassed into each other. Unlike your motor,my motor was completely spotless inside mainly I think because I used Mobil one 5W-30 extended oil most of its life and before the so called keyboard experts say anything,in my opinion being a mechanic for 50 years and I have rebuilt thousands of motors of every kind and 5W-20 oil is far too thin for these V6 motors.If anyone bothers to do their research they will find that the only reason Honda started reccomending 5W-20 oil was because the EPA was putting pressure on them for better gas milage and thinner oil may gave you a mile or maybe even two per gallon at most but with substantailly reduced engine life and I have seen that over and over and anyone who dares to argue that doesnt know as much as they think they know.Anyway I got side tracked from the original reason I posted here which was that when I bought the car it had 30,000 miles on it already but it developed a head gasket leak so I had to pull the heads off to change them and I couldnt believe the amount of carbon in the combustion chambers and pistons and that was from the previous owner using whatever bulk crap oil the Honda dealer was putting in there. After I also cleaned out all the carbon and sludge from isnside the motor,I started using the mobil one 5W-30 and 75,000 miles later when I pulled the heads again to check for valve damage,the motor was absolutely spottless inside.
you did a great job cleaning all the parts
Thanks! I spent way too much time doing it. 😂
I got too much carbon in my holes! Love it my dude, awesome job 👌.
The issue is the original pistons are not the correct size so cleaning them is still going to have the same issue. There was a recall on this years ago and the replacement pistons are actually a different size which fixes the issue
Interesting
Wow that's impressive. I am currently in the market looking for a 2nd gen MDX. But with this oil consumption issue it's really making me weary.
2007-9 = no oil consumption issue. It's the 2010-13
It’s hardly a big deal almost every Honda I’ve owned burned oil. My MDX burns oil and runs better than my 2019 ridgeline
@@zacattack45 as an automotive enthusiast, I have to disagree. It's BS that a modern engine designed and built with the best engineering and design available uses one quart of oil every thousand miles. My Nissan Titan with the 5.6 liter V8 doesn't use a drop of oil and a Toyota Tacoma I had with the 3.4 V6 NEVER used a drop of oil, even 150K miles on it.
@@JmanRx81 I’m not saying I love it and mine burns about a quart every 3 k miles. But It would not sway my decision to purchase the vehicle. My 2012 MDX drives like a dream and is great. Definitely annoying to have to manage for sure.
Thank you for your video,👍🙏
hope sarah n tuned had an epic pride month!
Awesome video. Have you changed oil and filter brands. Might be a good idea as all oils and filters are not created equal.
Hello again Josh!
Question about Connecting Rod Bearing. Did you check your Connecting Rod Bearing clearance and did you replace any of them? I am in the process of installing the pistons but I got I hung up on this. Thanks again!
I did not check clearance. I replaced one bearing. I just ordered the same color coded bearing from Honda. If you replace any, you must get the exact color coded match to the old ones. The color of the bearing corresponds to its clearance. DO NOT MIX THEM UP.
My brother had the extended warranty, always dealer serviced. Just 6 months out of warranty his oil light went on. Engine had 1.5 quarts. That's when we found out about the ring problem. Did the test, he passed, they quoted him $7K. No warranty it even with the settlement. We tried fighting it since the dealer changed the oil all the time and never said a word about the consumption problem. Might tear into it myself. Did the heads need to be machined or was that just precautionary?
The heads had to go to the machine shop because of a broken timing belt that bent valves. This repair potentially could cost you only the amount to buy all necessary gaskets then just using the existing head bolts instead of getting new ones and then cleaning the existing pistons and piston rings back to as clean as possible before reassembly.
Josh, did you use digital torque wrench to do the 90 degrees torque? What is the best way to do a 90 degree torque without the digital wrench?
I used a SnapOn digital torque wrench for everything but the head bolts. For the headbolts I used a 1/2" eTork click-type wrench then used a torque angle gauge to do the final 90 degrees.
Thanks for your video. are you still using it? how many miles has it done since you fixed it, how is the oil consumption?
My 2022 Acura MDX burned 1.25 quarts of oil in 3,000 miles oil chang. With VCM active. I just deactivated the VCM to see in on 5,000 it changes the oil consumption till next oil change. With will be done every 5K
I’m in the middle of replacing valves from pistons hitting them and thought about also doing this but i see people replacing pistons and rings… so it’s ok to just replace the rings and clean the pistons? Also are the new rings an updated part from honda or will this happen again eventually
I would clean the pistons first and see what they look like after cleaning. It'll happen again eventually.
Did you have your VCM active the entire life of the car? I just deactivated mine. Hopefully the oil consumption stops. It just hit 5k And used 1.25 quarts in 3,000 miles not 5k
Hello Josh, I just want to let you know that I have successfully rebuild my engine and started without any issue. I really appreciated for your help! Thank you so much. Last question. Are you adding any additives to keep your engine and your fuel injectors staying cleaned?
That's awesome! Good job! Nothing special for the engine just frequent oil changss with high quality oil and filter.
So all you can do is clean the pistons including the drainback holes, replace the rings and change the oil with Mobile One every 3K miles? Is that the solution?
Pretty much. But I'd say Mobil 1 is not the best to use. There are many others with higher and better detergent packages to keep this from happening.
Thx! which oil do you like? @@JmanRx81
keep in mind, do not over 3k on oil changes. Low tension compression rings will keep burning oil rings. Bypass exhaust gasses will be cooking oil on them and forming carbon deposits again. You could add extra drain holes per piston side for oil drainage. It is good idea to change valve seals while heads are off. Also, did you change bearings?
I had to replace one connecting rod bearing just out of caution, but probably could have just reinstalled it. And yes I agree about the 3K mile oil change interval.
@@JmanRx81 also, you mentioned that oil pan was baked with oil deposits. This is for very same reason-low tension compression rings. Exhaust gases in oil pan will leave its mark.
@@JmanRx81 Do you know why valves were changed?
@@dzionassi timing belt broke
@@JmanRx81 at what mileage?
After going through all this work, I hope you stop using Fram oil filters..... maybe switch to WixXP.....
Using 5W-30 synthetic motor oil in the summertime good for the honda engines?
@@joonajks I'd say for J series V6 all year long
@@JmanRx81 OK thank you sir!
Great job, Josh! I have a question regarding the pistons: The new piston's serial number is 13010-RKG-305 and it is stated to replace the 13010-RKG-E00. Do you have an idea if this is an updated design or not? The same applies for the piston rings.
I'm not certain as I did not replace the pistons. Only replaced the the rings. So perhaps the rings were redesigned to have higher tension so they don't allow as much blow-by. Again, not certain. I think it has more to do with changing the oil more often with a better oil than Honda was using and most certainly a better filter than Honda and changing it more often than what Acura states or by the oil life Monitor.
@@JmanRx81 Thanks for the prompt reply, Josh! Did the new piston rings look different (design-wise) than the old ones?
@@esticolis no
Hi Josh, how are your? Question. When you installed the front and rear heads on the block did you have any problem with the camshaft pulley not staying on TDC while the heads on the bench. Do you need to pre-tighten the valve adjusters so the camshaft pulley stay TDC before installing on the block? My camshaft pulley does not want to stay on TDC, it’s jumping between the numbers.
Yes, I had trouble with that. I did set the valve adjustment close then did final adjustment once heads and timing belt were fully installed.
@@JmanRx81 ok. I know you can do a valve adjustment (or pre-adjustment) for the front head on the bench but how would you do the rear head pre-adjustment on the bench. Thanks!
I meant to say PCV system when I was saying EGR system when talking about the heads.
I'm a day or two away from attempting this myself on an MDX with 190k. Have a bent valve so redoing the heads as well. Can't wait to see what's in there. Is there anything you'd do differently to make the disassembly/reassembly go smoother?
Keep track of every nut and bolt. Lol
heads up...do not use a timing belt kit from ebay even if they say 100% OEM honda because they are fake ....the tensioner fails snapping the timing belt and bent valves ...i have two MDXs and both failed in one week from each other .......my 04 had 3K MILES and my 2011 HAD 2K MILES
Not just an Acura problem. I had a 2007 Audi A4 that had crappy piston rings. Burned oil and smoked like an offshore rig. Cost would have been $3k to swap out a used engine. Just poor sourcing and cutting corners by companies.
toyota and subaru also
Hello Josh, I have more question. How did you clean the tip of the fuel injectors? Do you spray or dip the tip into Berryman carburetor cleaner. Thanks!
I didn't really. Mine were in good working condition. I just ran 2 full tanks of ethanol-free premium fuel with a bottle of fuel system cleaner each tank after I got it back together and running. I also changed the oil and filter 2 times after a few hundred miles. First time I checked the oil I almost shit myself because it didn't look like there was any oil on the dipstick, but it was perfectly fine. Just so clean I couldn't see it. Lol
Josh, Hi. I just found the front head gasket has oil seeping at the front corner next to the engine oil cap. It’s not too bad (just slightly wet with oil) but nevertheless I am disappointed with all the effort and careful planning and following the torquing spec in the service manual. Everything I used were OEM parts. Question. Did you reused the head bolts? I reused them. Is yours leak free?
I got new head bolts. Didn't want to risk using the old ones. Are you sure you don't have a warped head?
@@JmanRx81 heads were checked and milled at the machine shop.
@@hchhon then I'm not sure
Isnt it the vcm on the automatics that cause the carbon issue?
The MDX didn't have VCM. Some Honda's did.
I’m in the process of doing this right now. Did you had to gap the new rings?
I did not. I bought genuine Honda rings from a dealership and the cylinder walls looked to be in excellent condition.
@@JmanRx81 thanks a lot for the fast reply I’m literally working on it right now
@@horlly6155 good luck. Go slow and don't forget anything and mark wire connectors and vacuum line connections.
How much do you charge? I have 2011 MDX with oil consumption issue.
Depends on how in depth you want me to go. Lol
Josh,,did you used (sprayed) Berryman carb cleaner on the rocker arm assembly and did you used brake cleaner to riot off? My front rocker arm assembly look pretty baked
No. The heads got refurbished when the machine shop replaced the bent valves.
@@JmanRx81 I see. I will remove the rocker arm assembly from the head and take the head with the valve to the machine shop. Do you think it’s OK to spray Berryman carb cleaner to clean the rocker arm assembly? I bought the chem-dip to sock the pistons.
@@hchhon I would not
Hey Josh , what is going? Quick question. Did you have any issue with CHECK ENGINE OIL LEVEL message came on after your engine rebuild?
No. There is a sensor on the oil pump by the oil filter that you might just need to replace.
By any chance, I have a P0175 and P0172 codes because I'm running rich on both banks on this engine. Do you know if there is a known culprit on that engine?
Not sure about that. If your engine is burning oil due to the oil consumption issue, it could be fouling your O2 sensors and maybe they just need to be replaced.
Dude, where's the rest of the process? I want to see the final results
The final result is that the engine runs great and no longer uses any oil at all, even after 2K miles so far. Lol
Hello, what type of solvent you used to clean the pistons?
I used Berryman's Chem-dip. Comes in a 1 gallon can. Stiff bristle brush. Be careful though because the pistons are aluminum. I used a small flat blade screwdriver to clean the piston grooves after soaking the pistons first. BUT, you MUST be extremely careful doing this to avoid damaging the piston grooves. Otherwise just get a piston groove cleanout tool.
@@JmanRx81 thanks. And how long did you soak the piston in the Chem-dip before scrubbing?
Another question. Did you replace EVERY gaskets? Can you list all the gaskets that you replaced (you don’t have to give me the part #). I have 2011 MDX and my exhaust valve on cylinder #1 has a hole. I will be removing both head and take them to the shop and I thought this is a good opportunity to replace the piston rings as well. When you removed the head did you remove it with the fuel injector base and catalyst attached?
@@hchhon I don't remember, but probably 24 hours.
@@hchhon I replaced every gasket and cleaned literally everything before reassembly.
Why don’t people buy actual mechanics gloves how the hell do you work like that
I find these particular gloves quite good. The only thing better is no gloves.
@@JmanRx81 Their good to you because their cheap and the thought of buying a box of gloves puts you off so you double down because you don’t want to be ashamed
@@Dieselpwr WTAF are you even talking about. I use gloves when I want to. I don't use them when I don't want to. The fuck do you care? I'm not a professional technician.
@@JmanRx81 Professional that uses moms gloves for the toilet because their too cheap
@@Dieselpwr I'm NOT a professional...
Edit: my engine was only using 1 quart every *3*K miles or so. NOT every 1K miles.
that's ok? I hope same 2008 mdx with 52,000 miles 1 every 3, been using castol full sun 5-20 k&N 1010 filter, but nice seeing my engine apart as well.
@@starrider2352 I'm convinced 5W-20 oil is too thin for the J series engines and was only factory recommended fmto meet EPA MPG standards. I believe a 5W-30 will be better at keeping the carbon build-up on the piston rings to a lower level.
@@JmanRx81 I hope your right cause I seen your posting on NSXavierTV and he posted to someone adnanskillz 1234 who asked would using a thicker oil? "sorry to hear. I don’t think running a thicker oil would change anything and I wouldn’t want to mess with the recommended oil viscosity of 5W20. Going to a thicker grade oil and changing the cold and hot oil characteristics may have adverse affects on cold starts and normal operating temp. You may want to consider finding a used low mile 3.5L engine and just swapping it. You’ll spend more on a long block, but save a bunch on labor to swap it vs labor to overhaul your existing engine". cause I need to cancel my amazon order but I'll try it if you really believe it does seem to liquidy you might be right though. as Peter zeboroff in that chat agrees the same so let me try. as the oil dip sick almost has a slight fuel smell to it and I've never experienced that before on other vehicles but everything else is running smooth.
@@starrider2352 I'll be switching all my vehicles to 0W-30 once it starts to get to down in the 40s overnight.