Dude your video was super helpful to me today. I have never had an outboard motor in my Life bought a sailboat had a 6 horse Evinrude hasn't been started in a few years was driving me nuts found your video oh my God saved my life very very helpful thank you.
Thanks for the info, I have the same motor as a 1963 Johnson 5.5hp in Australia. now I have the right information ill be in the shed this weekend...........
Hi Kevin; I used to have the same carb struggle with my 15hp Evinrude every year till I got rid of the OEM metal tank and got a plastic tank. A small engine mechanic friend told me to also ALWAYS add 2-3 ounces of fuel stabilizer to my fuel tank on its last outing in the fall and to use SeaFoam additive 2-3 times a season to keep it clean as a whistle. Never had a problem with it after that. I've since upgraded to a 15 hp 4 stroke Honda but still do the same steps and no carb gumming up problems since 2009. $25 of preventative maintenance fluids goes a long way and saves you money and headaches in the long run..
FINALLY! Someone with some, everyday Joe, practical OB advice for someone like me who has a kinda phobia about taking carbs apart (lol). How many OBs have you tried this procedure of yours on & has it ever NOT worked?
I have a 68 Johnson 20hp FD-22M which I've been having an troubles getting running after sitting for a few yrs. I drained the fuel, changed lines/filter- will try your method even thow i'm very green with outboards. Thanks lots for the Video very informative.
Follow the video and give it a light shot of starter fluid when you get ready to fire it up for the first time. I fog the engine with Deep Creep or fogging oil first to get some lube in the cylinder. (Fogging is spraying a mist into the carb while cranking to draw the "fog" into the engine.) Also, check the plugs. They might need to be replaced.
Most problems with outboards that won't idle have not been properly stored in the fall. You must add marine fuel stabilizer. Run the engine at a fast idle to run mixture through for 5 to 10 min. It's a good idea to fill the tanks to stop condensation. Fog the engine until engine stalls. Remove your battery. Grease fittings and kisses it a long winter. Come spring it's ready to rock.
I have the same motor as you (mine's a 1960 with the square f/g cowl) The button you're talking about is a kill switch (shorts the ignition to ground). The choke is the pull out knob on the other side and there are two separate mixture control knobs is the center. They are labeled, though your motor might have had a harder life than mine and they may have been rubbed off or painted over.
I figured it was something like that. Now I want to see one in person. I have a Fastwin Evinrude 18 but it just has a button in that spot, I think for electric start - not installed. That's a trip that these motors still had mixture adjustment. I thought that was a 1920's / 1930's era thing.
few rules 1. avoid using fuel contain ethanol, use fresh fuel when it over a month old 2. when pulling jet needles out mind the O rings 3. never ever force needles into the seat like the he did in the video with a pair of plier
you have to let people know that older outboards might have cork floats in the carb which have a varnish type sealer on them , carb cleaner will dissolve that sealer and the floats are junk! trust me I found out the hard way.
I have a Suzuki DT140 motor and when i crank it it will start right up, but when im idleing it cuts off sometimes. it had a idle speed adjustment knob on the engine and it is close to the slow tab, should i just turn it up to halfway or further. you think that would keep it from cutting off at idle
Oh, man! Weed whackers, chain saws, anything two cycle and many things 4 cycle. It's my first shot at a fix. Sometimes there's damage or rust too tough to disolve. Then you gotta tear it down. Thanx!
Hi, If this doesn't work you can do what the video suggested to do but take it a bit further. Do all the steps mentioned but instead of just pulling on the rope shoot some deep creep or other starting fluid and get it to start. Let it wind up for a few moments and then cover the end of the carb with your hand. This will generate a lot more vacuum then just pulling on the rope. If this doesn't clear the jest bite the bullet and rebuild the carb. Nice video by the way.
i got a 7.5 sea king out board bout,a 79 yr, mint condition, will it work this engine/ montgomery wards in on the motor, i bought it, for 40 dollas, all new paint, no rust,it, sparks, what can i do it get this obe started.
K-100 FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER IS THE BEST...I DOUBLE DOSED MY TANK AND A WHILE LATER WITH REPEATED STARTING IT WAS IDLING FINE...THE STUFF SAVED MY VACATION...30 HP SUZUKI 2 STROKE
what kind of motor is that? i've not seen controls like that. im guessing johnnyrude of some kind based on the way the castings looked when you pulled the hood off.
my motor is a 6 hp Mecury 4 stroke. We went camping and fishing for a week. Each morning I had the same problem. It would start on 1st pull, then after about 30 seconds it would stop, and I wouldn't be able to get it started. I took off the gas hose, and let it set for a few minutes then I could start it again, and it would run without the gas hose for a few seconds, and as soon as I put the gas hose back on, it would quit. Then it would take some sitting time of periodically pulling the cord to see if it would start. This would go on for about a half an hour, and then it would start, and let me put the gas hose on and then would run perfect the rest of the day. Sometimes we were out for a couple of hours. Would run great. Go in for lunch for 2 or 3 hours, come back out, and it would start perfectly and run. Anytime we shut it off, it would start back up and run perfectly the rest of the day. Then the next day the exact same procedure of not starting and running until about a half hour of playing with it and then it would run perfect for the rest of that day. Same procedure everyday we were there.
hi, i have a 2003 mercury 25hp tiller steer. I was going wot then i backed of to idle and it died and has not run good ever since.it seems when you start it you have to give throttle instantly to get going. when i start it,it idles rough then dies.i can rev it and it will rev ok,as long as i have throttle it wont die. now,I have taken the carby of 2 times now and pulled it apart and cleaned it all including putting wire through all jets and holes. ive also adjusted the idle all the way up and it still wont idle unless i give throttle. when i opened the carby up there seemed to be no dirt or crud,it was very clean actually. the mixture screw ive tried playing with it but seems to make no difference. I dont know how far to set the mixture screw but from what i read it should be about 1 1/2 turns from fully closed. ive changed my fuel hoses but not the hose from the tank to the motor. I have not changed the spark plugs but they seem to be sparking fine. the motor when going with throttle its pumping water great. im so confused on what it can be.im going to get a compression test done and i sure hope its fine. If you have any ideas I would be very much appreciated if you could please help with any ideas. im not a boat mechanic but i have alittle knowledge about motors but this problem has really got my head scratching. thank you heaps. a very good video and im sure it will help alot of people.thank you for posting a very good vid.
How's your luck? Did ya get her running? If not, keep at it, it's bound to fire up sometime or another. These old outboards are worth their weight in gold. don't give up.
ok I have a question I have heard that some older boat motors in the 9.9 range can be change to 15-18 hp just with changing out the carb. do you guy by chance know what motors this can be done with? the reason I ask because here you do not have to tag a 9.9 motor or lower and this would give me a chance to find a motor over the winter when they are cheaper. any information would be a help
I have and 1985 boston whaler with a mariner 115, the motor starts right up when the rpms are high but as soon as you drop it in neutral it shuts off after 2-3 seconds, is it the carburetors?
Ryan Jackson It could be the idle jets are clogged or the idle is just too slow. Try pulling the choke at full throttle. This may clean the jets. Just pull it momentarily and release, so you don't kill the engine.
I have a 5.5 hp Johnson very similar to yours that I just got, I can't get it to fire, checked spark, not that great and seems that it doesn't spark every time it's supposed to. I pulled the flywheel , the points look good but, the coating on the coils is very brittle and cracked, I've read that most spark problems are bad coils. I'm assuming that's what's wrong with mine?
I have a 72 Evintrude 6HP. I bought if from a guy who ran it about a year ago. I took apart the carb cleaned it out a bit, put new plugs in, new gas, took apart and cleaned the fuel pump (plastic box type). I can get the thing to turn over and run for about a minute or two with the choke pulled and my thumb covering the hole. Without my thumb covering the hole it will run 10 seconds tops. I suppose I should buy a carb rebuild kit and a new float. the float looked like a swiss cheese bit of insulation. Any thoughts on what I should try next? I am new to this sort of thing.
Trevor Lake he jets are clogged. I suspect the main from the bottom of the float bowl. It will need to be cleaned. Sometimes this can be done by removing the needle valves and blasting the holes with carb cleaner with the straw. Good luck!
kbbacon What can I say....Mr. Bacon knows his outboards! I took the carb apart again; this time I took the brass screw pin out of the main jet (lower bowl). The small pin hole that went through the center was clogged; I cleaned it out with a bit of carb cleaner and a small wire. I am very happy to report that the motor is now alive and well. Will be on the water in the AM; hoping to take down some Kokanee at the local pond. Cheers, Trevor
I inherited my grandpas boat has a 86 30 hp evinrude this past summer it sat for 5 years out side the first time I took it fishin thing would have a hard time starting took 50 pulls an when It did when I would slow down it would die so I droped new plugs in it started an ran fine again but when it got down to half a tank it would die if I was trolling so I adjusted the low speed has not done it since nice motor moves the boat nice I got it to troll down to .4 miles a hr an wide open she hits 35
Hello I have a 94 30 hp evinrude it will not start it is hard to crank over but when I take my spark plugs out it cranks fine. Could I have some help please
freddy wilkerson Either the starter is worn out, or it is losing amperage through the wiring. Try jumping directly to the starter stud with a jumper cable and see if it spins over normally.
Hey, i just got a 1975 johnson 15 horse. It starts ok, but it ghost revs on me and doesnt want to stay running at low speeds. It will run, but its not consistent and sounds like shit. Any ideas? Thank you!
Michael Robbins I don't know. If they are on a hinge, they should be set so that the float and the float bowl base are parallel when the carburetor is held upside down.
I have a Yamaha 4 horse / 4 stroke. Cold start is fine. Motor will run without cutting off. When I cut it off it will not restart until it cools back down. A mechanic has checked for thermostat and there is no problem there. Any ideas.
hi had the same issue took it to mach found out compression was that low or just running one that pressure from water stops the engine u will also notice u can rev on neutral
I have a 4.5 Mercury motor, it runs fine in the test barrel and will go for 20 minutes at least (longest I've run it) under forward power. However when I put it on the boat and on the water it'll run for about 5-7 minutes then it quits like it ran out of gas. Then I open the choke a bit(1/4 maybe 1/2) then it one pull sarts and will only run on that choke then it quits again. Then, I close the choke and then it'll start that way and again run for 2-3-4 minutes then quit. But once I get back home, it runs fine in the test barrel with Zero problems Any I dea what gives? It was fully serviced about 4-5 months ago. Thanks great video BTW
You have a fuel restriction. Loosen the cap on the fuel tank. Check all fuel lines for collapse and look for a clog where the fuel line enters the carburetor. Next time out, try pumping the hand pump to keep it running.
Thanks for the reply, it's a tank on the motor. all the fuel lines were changed about 4 months ago on the last service. I'll keep pluggin away at it, it's something small I'm sure. It runs perfectly in the test barrel.(20 minutes half throttle) I'll pull the tank clean it (again) and change the lines again. Mahalo Nui Loa
i am having a problem with primer bulb not expanding back after compressing it.....arrows on bulb are pointing the right direction....help..hellp..help
Not sure but I think that maybe made by ESKA. They were at one time. You may try this method. but you may have to remove the carb and physically clean it. You may need an overhaul kit??? Google the model number, you can also try. maxrules . com if he doesn't have what you need he can probably tell you where to get it. You will also need to replace the water pump as well. Check the lower unit oil level and condition. Good luck. never run a motor on muffs submerge the foot in water.
Check your prop connection. The key may have sheared or, in some cases there's a rubber bushing that separates. I'm betting there's your problem. Let me know!
Hi Kevin. I have a 1985 Evinrude, 70 hp. I have water in the fuel, with a milky substance build up on front 3 carbs. The hose connects to the airbox also have fuel and milky substance coming out. What could be causing this? Shouldn't this hose have vacuum and not have gas leaking out? I'm totally in the dark on this, lol. Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated Thanks so much
The milky stuff is water mixed with fuel. Make sure the tank is clear of water and that there is not too much alcohol in the fuel (which attracts water). Probably not much vacuum to that hose and may leak because a carb float is stuck.
I have a 2008 mercury 9.9 four stroke that will crank and run fine as long as I keep pressing the primer bulb on the front of the engine (not the primer bulb from the tank). When I stop pressing the bulb the engine shuts off. Any ideas what could cause this ??
+Chris Thomas I couldn't reply. earlier. I'm thinking that the main jet in the carb is clogged in the fuel bowl. Sometimes choking the engine while it's running will pull the clog out, otherwise, carb cleaner through all holes in carb or remove carb and use a fine wire or needle to open up the jet.
Hate to be a downer but gotta say it. First off NEVER use starting fluid on a two-stroke outboard motor! The fluid washes away the coating of oil on moving parts inside the crankcase! No oil/insufficient oil = no/poor lubrication= METAL ON METAL = PREMATURE WEAR!! Second, and some have already stated this: The only way to PROPERLY service/clean a carburetor that has been sitting & is gummed up/dirty, etc., is to remove it & disassemble it. Clean each individual component, preferably soak it in a can of carb-cleaner. Rise with fresh water & use compressed air to blow-dry and blow out the small passages, etc. Reassemble using new gaskets AND a new float. The original float on those 1960's Johnson/Evinrude outboards (NOT 1976) were constructed of of cork. The cork floats were coated with shellack to prevent them from becoming saturated with fuel. Today's fuels are too harsh especially with ethanol and will dissolve the shellack & deteriorate the cork. Nothing but problems. You may get lucky & your method will suffice. Still, you're taking a huge risk. If there is trash/residue, etc., clogging the jets it can create a lean fuel situation. You run the risk of burning a cylinder/piston from too lean a fuel/oil mixture etc. I will admit it's not as prevalent in these old small horsepower outboards, true. They were/are pretty bullet proof with looser tolerances, heavier metals & lack needle bearings inside the crankcase. These little outboards (Not all, but these for sure) incorporated bushings instead. IMHO that was their saving grace & one of the biggest reasons they were so durable. Less moving parts to wear out!
Have you never been inside a two stroke? I would, indeed, warn against the regular use of starter fluid, but I use lubricated starter fluid and never enough to wash out the crank case. Come on...you love to be a downer! It's OK! BTW I watched that sweet Jonnyrude of yours running. Great job. You need to post more vids!! I'll give you a shoutout if you do. I'm subbed!
Actually, I've been inside MANY 2-strokes! I've repaired & rebuilt outboards since I was 17 years old...which was 35+ years ago. O.k., you got me, I DO! love to be a downer ;-) Even so, I won't delve into the whole "lubricated starter fluid" debate. Anyway, it's not just wash-out but the fact that ether causes a little bit of damage to the piston/rings etc., every time you use it. Over time the motor loses compression making it harder to start & poor running. Since you don"t use starting fluid often you'll probably never notice or have a problem. Still, if it were my motor just knowing it will cause damage would prevent me from using the stuff. Anyway...thank you for the kind words on my vid. I sold that sweet beast last year. I do plan to post more videos. It will be a while though. Take care!
I began work as a professional mechanic for the USARMY in 1977, but have been doing it all my life. Sometimes you just gotta do what works! Seafoam spray and Deepcreep work, also. I have even used a pump oil can with gas mix in it. I've got over 400 vids on here. Check some out. I'll be watching for your next one!!
tvtonite79Hi Kevin, Can you advise me on do ability repairing a Johnson 110 .specifics are:engine ran with bad oil injector. engine cranks. I suspect rings and bearings and gaskets are needed. TNX. Jon
This is an old post I see. What you did will work to a point. Just clean the carb and be done. Could clog any time the way you are doing it. You pushed all the trach back in the carb. It will stop up again. But....Good to know if out on the lake to get you back.
That is nice. But so is that old Johnson, it's from the era when things were built to last, and i'm sure it also says Made in USA somewhere in that motor.
Jack Ramos Leave the cap loose on the fuel tank, but I'm guessing there is a small leak between the bowl and the tank. Check the gasket on the bowl. They are notorious for leaking vacuum.
I have a 75hp Mariner it runs fine on the flusher from water hose, but will not run on the lake. I have changed plugs and bought a new gas tank and gas hose and bulb.
jrossjr 5150 do you have a water/fuel separator filter? I had the same kind of issue and found I had water in my gas tank. the boat sat different on the water -vs- in my driveway and would start at home on the hose. long story short my fuel tank vent was taking on water from the "spray" while boating (bad design).
Kevin I have a nine and a half Johnson pull start 2 cylinder 2 cycle I'm fairly new to this boating. my boat motor when I pump the primer bulb and pool to start it it runs like mad 30 to 45 seconds. then it stops and won't run again for a while. I have put it on the Lake 3x and cannot get past the dock. I try to restart it but it won't start. I want to fix this on my own because my budget is very small. Help Please
If You can take the sediment bowl off, try filling it with Sea Foam and replacing it. then start the engine. The Sea Foam might dislodge some gunk in the fuel system. Just a shot in the dark.
This will happen if you forget to open the air vent in the fuel tank. Engine sucks fuel from the tank and creates vacuum and fuel flow stops. It will not restart until vacuum leaks away. Then the cycle repeats itself. My boat goes about 25 yards before it stops but it depends on how much air space is in the tank when you start. If you have one of the tank caps without an obvious air vent screw in the centre, try loosening the cap and if it then works sort out the cap or renew it.
Another thought after reading your statement "runs like mad". When you start engine it should be with the choke pulled out. As soon as it starts, push the choke back in again, working the throttle at the same time. Engine will "run like mad" because choke supplies too much fuel to engine, eventually flooding it and making it stop. A fuel flooded engine will not restart until the excess fuel dissipates. Either wait 5 minutes or more and try restarting, but without any choke and without pumping primer bulb, or disconnect the fuel line and give 5 or more good pulls on the rope to pump out the excess fuel. It is also possible that the choke in/out knob is not doing it's job properly and engine is permanently choked. They can be wrongly fitted with 180 degree rotation and not operate the choke plate correctly. A quick visual check should let you know if it is a least moving the lever on the carburetor properly. From distant memory, the small flat cut in the side of the plastic arm should face inwards. A better way is to remove the air intake "muffler" and visually inspect the choke flapper. With choke knob out, the flap should be fully closed and when knob is in it should be fully open. There is an excellent website called leeroysramblings.com that tells you absolutely everything you will ever need to know about these motors.
Sorry to bother, I'm going to try what you suggested here; So I have an evinrude 9.9. 4 stroke 1995 took It out, it seemed to run and start ok. but then full throttle wound bog down at top speed, it started to sputter and and even back fired, it would go 10 feet and shut off 10 feet and shut off full throttle would bog. it was making sounds and running like it had water in the carb. any suggestions? I'm going to try put a carb rebuild kit and see if that helps
Sputter and backfire is due to a lean fuel mixture. Blasting out the jets with carb cleaner will usually do the trick. Also try pulling the choke. It will sometimes loosen debris and clear out the jets.
Thanks for the quick reply, will do! One speck/grain of sand in the jets will cause that issue? Just picked of some compressed air in the can, I'll keep you posted!
thanks for great vid. i'll try the seafoam heard it's great. Mine runs great in 55 gal drum (all day) take it out on lake it runs for about 20 mins then shuts down let it sit for 10 mins runs again for 20. I've fiddled w/ it. Any advice? it's 1963 sears 5 hs. I have the fastest grumman transomed on the lake(usually) thanks again.
dadrules714 There is either a fuel blockage at the fuel pump (or a vacuum leak in the supply line), ot the tank needs to be vented. Squeeze the pressure bulb when the engine starts to die. It's also possible that the points are to wide and they warm up and don't make contact. Lastly, it could have a coil breaking down when it heats up. I have also seen head gaskets do this, but it would likely only get one cylinder.
NAC cater , I believe that the dog was disagreeing with the ( video ) - or - attempting to notify the ( neighborhood ) of a ( hazard ) event coming..!!!
i would have just bought the gaskets and rebuilt the jets,,,its not that hard,,,i did my 50 yamaha,,,now im redoing the piston heads and rings ,,,My Boat Project
Dude your video was super helpful to me today. I have never had an outboard motor in my Life bought a sailboat had a 6 horse Evinrude hasn't been started in a few years was driving me nuts found your video oh my God saved my life very very helpful thank you.
Good deal!!
Thanks for the info, I have the same motor as a 1963 Johnson 5.5hp in Australia. now I have the right information ill be in the shed this weekend...........
Good luck!!
Hi Kevin;
I used to have the same carb struggle with my 15hp Evinrude every year till I got rid of the OEM metal tank and got a plastic tank. A small engine mechanic friend told me to also ALWAYS add 2-3 ounces of fuel stabilizer to my fuel tank on its last outing in the fall and to use SeaFoam additive 2-3 times a season to keep it clean as a whistle. Never had a problem with it after that. I've since upgraded to a 15 hp 4 stroke Honda but still do the same steps and no carb gumming up problems since 2009. $25 of preventative maintenance fluids goes a long way and saves you money and headaches in the long run..
Good advice!
Nice video! I just bought a 63, 5.5 Johnson and am looking forward to working on it. I will give this a try!
FINALLY! Someone with some, everyday Joe, practical OB advice for someone like me who has a kinda phobia about taking carbs apart (lol). How many OBs have you tried this procedure of yours on & has it ever NOT worked?
I realize it is pretty randomly asking but do anybody know of a good website to stream new tv shows online ?
My Sears 2HP has two Rich -- Lean screws - not sure if I can unscrew these all the way or not for the fuel bowl - but thanks for the tip!
I have a 68 Johnson 20hp FD-22M which I've been having an troubles getting running after sitting for a few yrs. I drained the fuel, changed lines/filter- will try your method even thow i'm very green with outboards. Thanks lots for the Video very informative.
Michael T. Lichtenfeld You are welcome!!
Follow the video and give it a light shot of starter fluid when you get ready to fire it up for the first time. I fog the engine with Deep Creep or fogging oil first to get some lube in the cylinder. (Fogging is spraying a mist into the carb while cranking to draw the "fog" into the engine.) Also, check the plugs. They might need to be replaced.
Most problems with outboards that won't idle have not been properly stored in the fall. You must add marine fuel stabilizer. Run the engine at a fast idle to run mixture through for 5 to 10 min. It's a good idea to fill the tanks to stop condensation. Fog the engine until engine stalls. Remove your battery. Grease fittings and kisses it a long winter. Come spring it's ready to rock.
Thanks! Glad I watched before I decided to take that carb apart! Now if only I could fix the pull start...
Hi I just bought my first motor the other day and when i start it it has trouble staying on and think it needs the carb cleaning but not sure
I use a little fine scotch bright pad to clean the needles. I also add some seafoam to the gas oil mix................
great video and commentary... thanks for putting it together !
+bill martin You are welcome!
I have the same motor as you (mine's a 1960 with the square f/g cowl)
The button you're talking about is a kill switch (shorts the ignition to ground). The choke is the pull out knob on the other side and there are two separate mixture control knobs is the center. They are labeled, though your motor might have had a harder life than mine and they may have been rubbed off or painted over.
I figured it was something like that. Now I want to see one in person. I have a Fastwin Evinrude 18 but it just has a button in that spot, I think for electric start - not installed. That's a trip that these motors still had mixture adjustment. I thought that was a 1920's / 1930's era thing.
few rules
1. avoid using fuel contain ethanol, use fresh fuel when it over a month old
2. when pulling jet needles out mind the O rings
3. never ever force needles into the seat like the he did in the video with a pair of plier
I use this motor quite regularly. It's small, but big enough for where I fish.
thanks for the info. appreciate it much!
The Tank is mounted on the Powerplant, it's Gravity feed, the gas line runs directly to the carb.
Yes, the carbs were overhauled on the total service.
you have to let people know that older outboards might have cork floats in the carb which have a varnish type sealer on them , carb cleaner will dissolve that sealer and the floats are junk! trust me I found out the hard way.
I have a Suzuki DT140 motor and when i crank it it will start right up, but when im idleing it cuts off sometimes. it had a idle speed adjustment knob on the engine and it is close to the slow tab, should i just turn it up to halfway or further. you think that would keep it from cutting off at idle
Oh, man! Weed whackers, chain saws, anything two cycle and many things 4 cycle. It's my first shot at a fix. Sometimes there's damage or rust too tough to disolve. Then you gotta tear it down. Thanx!
I added Marvel Mystery Oil to the mix. Seafoam is good, too!
I use 32-1. Some were actually 16-1, but the oil is much better today than it was then.
Hi, If this doesn't work you can do what the video suggested to do but take it a bit further. Do all the steps mentioned but instead of just pulling on the rope shoot some deep creep or other starting fluid and get it to start. Let it wind up for a few moments and then cover the end of the carb with your hand. This will generate a lot more vacuum then just pulling on the rope. If this doesn't clear the jest bite the bullet and rebuild the carb. Nice video by the way.
I've been using that trick for over 30 years.I didn't want to post it for safety reasons.
I have a 52 Evinrude. Cork would be the case. Thanx!
The choke works great.
Kevin, is there a formula we can use for the fuel/oil ratio on older motors?
i got a 7.5 sea king out board bout,a 79 yr, mint condition, will it work this engine/ montgomery wards in on the motor, i bought it, for 40 dollas, all new paint, no rust,it, sparks, what can i do it get this obe started.
They are painted over. I'll try it as a kill switch! Cool! I was just closing the throttle all the way to shut her down.
How does the same knob control lo and hi speed mixture adjustment?
K-100 FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER IS THE BEST...I DOUBLE DOSED MY TANK AND A WHILE LATER WITH REPEATED STARTING IT WAS IDLING FINE...THE STUFF SAVED MY VACATION...30 HP SUZUKI 2 STROKE
Good deal!!
you're a lucky guy having a removable main jet needle like that.
Yes indeed!
what kind of motor is that? i've not seen controls like that. im guessing johnnyrude of some kind based on the way the castings looked when you pulled the hood off.
Sea King...Sears..jonnyrude. 1976 model 5.5 horse.
kbbacon that would be a 2 cylinder correct? possibly a detuned 6hp?
2 cylinder and I think it's an up tuned 5 hp.
my motor is a 6 hp Mecury 4 stroke. We went camping and fishing for a week. Each morning I had the same problem. It would start on 1st pull, then after about 30 seconds it would stop, and I wouldn't be able to get it started. I took off the gas hose, and let it set for a few minutes then I could start it again, and it would run without the gas hose for a few seconds, and as soon as I put the gas hose back on, it would quit. Then it would take some sitting time of periodically pulling the cord to see if it would start. This would go on for about a half an hour, and then it would start, and let me put the gas hose on and then would run perfect the rest of the day. Sometimes we were out for a couple of hours. Would run great. Go in for lunch for 2 or 3 hours, come back out, and it would start perfectly and run. Anytime we shut it off, it would start back up and run perfectly the rest of the day. Then the next day the exact same procedure of not starting and running until about a half hour of playing with it and then it would run perfect for the rest of that day. Same procedure everyday we were there.
+Gary Arnold I'm guessing the float was sticking down and just worked loose after a period. try some Seafoam or a similar fuel additive.
Will seafoam treatment for my motor clean carbon out my converter
Very helpful, Thanks so much
+Peter Dalbrun You are very welcome!
hi,
i have a 2003 mercury 25hp tiller steer.
I was going wot then i backed of to idle and it died and has not run good ever since.it seems when you start it you have to give throttle instantly to get going.
when i start it,it idles rough then dies.i can rev it and it will rev ok,as long as i have throttle it wont die.
now,I have taken the carby of 2 times now and pulled it apart and cleaned it all including putting wire through all jets and holes.
ive also adjusted the idle all the way up and it still wont idle unless i give throttle.
when i opened the carby up there seemed to be no dirt or crud,it was very clean actually.
the mixture screw ive tried playing with it but seems to make no difference.
I dont know how far to set the mixture screw but from what i read it should be about 1 1/2 turns from fully closed.
ive changed my fuel hoses but not the hose from the tank to the motor.
I have not changed the spark plugs
but they seem to be sparking fine.
the motor when going with throttle its pumping water great.
im so confused on what it can be.im going to get a compression test done and i sure hope its fine.
If you have any ideas I would be very much appreciated if you could please help with any ideas.
im not a boat mechanic but i have alittle knowledge about motors but this problem has really got my head scratching.
thank you heaps.
a very good video and im sure it will help alot of people.thank you for posting a very good vid.
Check the fuel pump, but I'm guessing the float level is too low. Will it run partially choked?
Hey Kevin B.
can you Explain a little bit more about the jet the long tube in the carnurator, how yo install it back on. pls, thnx
Carefully screw it back in.
I would like to have that motor on my boat when I am six miles out with a storm coming in........that would be awsome!!
5.5 hp might not get you six miles out! Works well on small to medium lakes.
How's your luck? Did ya get her running? If not, keep at it, it's bound to fire up sometime or another. These old outboards are worth their weight in gold. don't give up.
Some form of early plastic. Shellac would dissolve in alcohol.
ok I have a question I have heard that some older boat motors in the 9.9 range can be change to 15-18 hp just with changing out the carb. do you guy by chance know what motors this can be done with? the reason I ask because here you do not have to tag a 9.9 motor or lower and this would give me a chance to find a motor over the winter when they are cheaper. any information would be a help
It is possible, but I do not know for sure. I know that works for some 4 strokes.
I have and 1985 boston whaler with a mariner 115, the motor starts right up when the rpms are high but as soon as you drop it in neutral it shuts off after 2-3 seconds, is it the carburetors?
Ryan Jackson It could be the idle jets are clogged or the idle is just too slow. Try pulling the choke at full throttle. This may clean the jets. Just pull it momentarily and release, so you don't kill the engine.
Will your boat float if so your half way home.
Remember the Sea Foam in gas.Good stuff I hear.
On these old babies, that's a real chore. I would have if my attack hadn't worked. Thanx for watching!
That dog sounds funny :-)
Thanks
I have a 5.5 hp Johnson very similar to yours that I just got, I can't get it to fire, checked spark, not that great and seems that it doesn't spark every time it's supposed to. I pulled the flywheel , the points look good but, the coating on the coils is very brittle and cracked, I've read that most spark problems are bad coils. I'm assuming that's what's wrong with mine?
Jake Zeller It is very possible. Polish the points, first, just in case.
kbbacon the coils were bad, it runs great now
whats is a weak spark?
I have a 72 Evintrude 6HP. I bought if from a guy who ran it about a year ago. I took apart the carb cleaned it out a bit, put new plugs in, new gas, took apart and cleaned the fuel pump (plastic box type). I can get the thing to turn over and run for about a minute or two with the choke pulled and my thumb covering the hole. Without my thumb covering the hole it will run 10 seconds tops. I suppose I should buy a carb rebuild kit and a new float. the float looked like a swiss cheese bit of insulation. Any thoughts on what I should try next? I am new to this sort of thing.
Trevor Lake he jets are clogged. I suspect the main from the bottom of the float bowl. It will need to be cleaned. Sometimes this can be done by removing the needle valves and blasting the holes with carb cleaner with the straw. Good luck!
kbbacon What can I say....Mr. Bacon knows his outboards! I took the carb apart again; this time I took the brass screw pin out of the main jet (lower bowl). The small pin hole that went through the center was clogged; I cleaned it out with a bit of carb cleaner and a small wire. I am very happy to report that the motor is now alive and well. Will be on the water in the AM; hoping to take down some Kokanee at the local pond. Cheers, Trevor
Trevor Lake Good deal!!
Good video ! Thank you !
+Alex Brown Thank you!
I inherited my grandpas boat has a 86 30 hp evinrude this past summer it sat for 5 years out side the first time I took it fishin thing would have a hard time starting took 50 pulls an when It did when I would slow down it would die so I droped new plugs in it started an ran fine again but when it got down to half a tank it would die if I was trolling so I adjusted the low speed has not done it since nice motor moves the boat nice I got it to troll down to .4 miles a hr an wide open she hits 35
an I ran seafoam thru it every time I run it
Seafoam has some good products. Amazing what those adjustments will do!!
kbbacon True, the trans-X has saved many a transmission!
Hello I have a 94 30 hp evinrude it will not start it is hard to crank over but when I take my spark plugs out it cranks fine. Could I have some help please
freddy wilkerson Either the starter is worn out, or it is losing amperage through the wiring. Try jumping directly to the starter stud with a jumper cable and see if it spins over normally.
Hey, i just got a 1975 johnson 15 horse. It starts ok, but it ghost revs on me and doesnt want to stay running at low speeds. It will run, but its not consistent and sounds like shit. Any ideas? Thank you!
I would check the points. Also, flood the carb with cleaner and let it soak. The float might be sticking.
i have a 78 55hp evinrude what should the floats to set to right now they are set on 13/32mm
Michael Robbins I don't know. If they are on a hinge, they should be set so that the float and the float bowl base are parallel when the carburetor is held upside down.
Does anyone know where I can buy the cowling cover for the Johnson 20r72r. I can't find it anywhere, thanks.
+davids alwaysfishin Help him out, folks.
YOU SAVED MEEEEEE!! THANKS!!!!!!
You are welcome!!
I have a Yamaha 4 horse / 4 stroke. Cold start is fine. Motor will run without cutting off. When I cut it off it will not restart until it cools back down. A mechanic has checked for thermostat and there is no problem there. Any ideas.
hi had the same issue took it to mach
found out compression was that low or just running one that pressure from water stops the engine
u will also notice u can rev on neutral
I have a 4.5 Mercury motor, it runs fine in the test barrel and will go for 20 minutes at least (longest I've run it) under forward power.
However when I put it on the boat and on the water it'll run for about 5-7 minutes then it quits like it ran out of gas.
Then I open the choke a bit(1/4 maybe 1/2) then it one pull sarts and will only run on that choke then it quits again.
Then, I close the choke and then it'll start that way and again run for 2-3-4 minutes then quit.
But once I get back home, it runs fine in the test barrel with Zero problems
Any I dea what gives? It was fully serviced about 4-5 months ago.
Thanks great video BTW
You have a fuel restriction. Loosen the cap on the fuel tank. Check all fuel lines for collapse and look for a clog where the fuel line enters the carburetor. Next time out, try pumping the hand pump to keep it running.
Thanks for the reply, it's a tank on the motor. all the fuel lines were changed about 4 months ago on the last service.
I'll keep pluggin away at it, it's something small I'm sure. It runs perfectly in the test barrel.(20 minutes half throttle) I'll pull the tank clean it (again) and change the lines again.
Mahalo Nui Loa
maybe is the fuel pump is bad
rafael matos I replaced the fuel pump, first. Yep, it was bad!
i am having a problem with primer bulb not expanding back after compressing it.....arrows on bulb are pointing the right direction....help..hellp..help
Check the fuel tank and hoses. It appears to be clogged.
Not sure but I think that maybe made by ESKA. They were at one time. You may try this method. but you may have to remove the carb and physically clean it. You may need an overhaul kit??? Google the model number, you can also try. maxrules . com if he doesn't have what you need he can probably tell you where to get it. You will also need to replace the water pump as well. Check the lower unit oil level and condition. Good luck. never run a motor on muffs submerge the foot in water.
I bought a 78 thunderbolt 850, one cylinder is reading low..do you suggest a card cleaning?
Carb clean and check compression. Compression OK then probably carb.
It blew up totally, I got a Yamaha 40 hp 2 stroke, and I love it
My boat motor revs up too much but it doesn't go fast is there anything you can help thanks
Check your prop connection. The key may have sheared or, in some cases there's a rubber bushing that separates. I'm betting there's your problem. Let me know!
Hi Kevin. I have a 1985 Evinrude, 70 hp. I have water in the fuel, with a milky substance build up on front 3 carbs. The hose connects to the airbox also have fuel and milky substance coming out. What could be causing this? Shouldn't this hose have vacuum and not have gas leaking out? I'm totally in the dark on this, lol. Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated
Thanks so much
The milky stuff is water mixed with fuel. Make sure the tank is clear of water and that there is not too much alcohol in the fuel (which attracts water). Probably not much vacuum to that hose and may leak because a carb float is stuck.
+kbbacon Thank you
how many hp is that
I have a 2008 mercury 9.9 four stroke that will crank and run fine as long as I keep pressing the primer bulb on the front of the engine (not the primer bulb from the tank). When I stop pressing the bulb the engine shuts off. Any ideas what could cause this ??
+Chris Thomas Maybe its not able to draw fuel from the tank, tank breather may be blocked. Had the same problem
+Chris Thomas I couldn't reply. earlier. I'm thinking that the main jet in the carb is clogged in the fuel bowl. Sometimes choking the engine while it's running will pull the clog out, otherwise, carb cleaner through all holes in carb or remove carb and use a fine wire or needle to open up the jet.
Boat motor carbs are not a "different kind of animal"....they're typical float bowl carbs.
OK!
very informative.
but your wife making all that noise in the background was irritating
He ain't doing a warner brothers production. Just be thankful the man made the video
You aren't using caustic automotive cleaners in that carb, are you?
Hate to be a downer but gotta say it. First off NEVER use starting fluid on a two-stroke outboard motor! The fluid washes away the coating of oil on moving parts inside the crankcase! No oil/insufficient oil = no/poor lubrication= METAL ON METAL = PREMATURE WEAR!!
Second, and some have already stated this: The only way to PROPERLY service/clean a carburetor that has been sitting & is gummed up/dirty, etc., is to remove it & disassemble it. Clean each individual component, preferably soak it in a can of carb-cleaner. Rise with fresh water & use compressed air to blow-dry and blow out the small passages, etc.
Reassemble using new gaskets AND a new float. The original float on those 1960's Johnson/Evinrude outboards (NOT 1976) were constructed of of cork. The cork floats were coated with shellack to prevent them from becoming saturated with fuel. Today's fuels are too harsh especially with ethanol and will dissolve the shellack & deteriorate the cork. Nothing but problems.
You may get lucky & your method will suffice. Still, you're taking a huge risk. If there is trash/residue, etc., clogging the jets it can create a lean fuel situation. You run the risk of burning a cylinder/piston from too lean a fuel/oil mixture etc. I will admit it's not as prevalent in these old small horsepower outboards, true. They were/are pretty bullet proof with looser tolerances, heavier metals & lack needle bearings inside the crankcase. These little outboards (Not all, but these for sure) incorporated bushings instead. IMHO that was their saving grace & one of the biggest reasons they were so durable. Less moving parts to wear out!
Have you never been inside a two stroke? I would, indeed, warn against the regular use of starter fluid, but I use lubricated starter fluid and never enough to wash out the crank case. Come on...you love to be a downer! It's OK! BTW I watched that sweet Jonnyrude of yours running. Great job. You need to post more vids!! I'll give you a shoutout if you do. I'm subbed!
Actually, I've been inside MANY 2-strokes! I've repaired & rebuilt outboards since I was 17 years old...which was 35+ years ago.
O.k., you got me, I DO! love to be a downer ;-) Even so, I won't delve into the whole "lubricated starter fluid" debate. Anyway, it's not just wash-out but the fact that ether causes a little bit of damage to the piston/rings etc., every time you use it.
Over time the motor loses compression making it harder to start & poor running. Since you don"t use starting fluid often you'll probably never notice or have a problem. Still, if it were my motor just knowing it will cause damage would prevent me from using the stuff.
Anyway...thank you for the kind words on my vid. I sold that sweet beast last year. I do plan to post more videos. It will be a while though. Take care!
I began work as a professional mechanic for the USARMY in 1977, but have been doing it all my life. Sometimes you just gotta do what works! Seafoam spray and Deepcreep work, also. I have even used a pump oil can with gas mix in it. I've got over 400 vids on here. Check some out. I'll be watching for your next one!!
Thank you!
tvtonite79Hi Kevin, Can you advise me on do ability repairing a Johnson 110 .specifics are:engine ran with bad oil injector. engine cranks. I suspect rings and bearings and gaskets are needed. TNX.
Jon
This is an old post I see. What you did will work to a point. Just clean the carb and be done. Could clog any time the way you are doing it. You pushed all the trach back in the carb. It will stop up again. But....Good to know if out on the lake to get you back.
As you stated, getting back home.
recently bought a pontoon with 50HP Force, it starts fine but as soon as I pot it on FWD or REV. engine dies! is it low Idle problem?
Probably, but try pulling the choke out and see what happens.
@@kbbacon It's a "push key in" type of choke not a push/pull lever type.
@@majidsoltani8588 Try pumping the primer bulb on the fuel line.
7 almost 8 years later and you fixed my motor ......
That was one of my earlier vids!
My grandfather had Johnson motor like that back in late 1960's early 70's, but what is that motorcycle back there, is it Harley, Honda or Yamaha?
1977 Suuki GS400X
That is nice. But so is that old Johnson, it's from the era when things were built to last, and i'm sure it also says Made in USA somewhere in that motor.
See "righting a wronged Motorcycle"
Well, i don't have a motorcycle of my own, but i sure like to watch them going.
I have a 9.9 HP Evinrude outboard. I can get to run but after a few minutes running it shuts down. The bulb is out of gas.
Can anyone help me out ?
Jack Ramos Leave the cap loose on the fuel tank, but I'm guessing there is a small leak between the bowl and the tank. Check the gasket on the bowl. They are notorious for leaking vacuum.
Expensive, but good!
I have a 75hp Mariner it runs fine on the flusher from water hose, but will not run on the lake. I have changed plugs and bought a new gas tank and gas hose and bulb.
jrossjr 5150 Won't idle, or won't give you power?
it will not run at all when I go to the lake
but runs fine at the house with the flushers on the water hose
jrossjr 5150 You have a serious mystery!!
jrossjr 5150 do you have a water/fuel separator filter? I had the same kind of issue and found I had water in my gas tank. the boat sat different on the water -vs- in my driveway and would start at home on the hose. long story short my fuel tank vent was taking on water from the "spray" while boating (bad design).
It's two knobs. One inside the other.
5.5
thanks guy
You're welcome!
WD40 works well for starting 2 stroke engines!
Kevin I have a nine and a half Johnson pull start 2 cylinder 2 cycle I'm fairly new to this boating. my boat motor when I pump the primer bulb and pool to start it it runs like mad 30 to 45 seconds. then it stops and won't run again for a while. I have put it on the Lake 3x and cannot get past the dock. I try to restart it but it won't start. I want to fix this on my own because my budget is very small. Help Please
If You can take the sediment bowl off, try filling it with Sea Foam and replacing it. then start the engine. The Sea Foam might dislodge some gunk in the fuel system. Just a shot in the dark.
This will happen if you forget to open the air vent in the fuel tank. Engine sucks fuel from the tank and creates vacuum and fuel flow stops. It will not restart until vacuum leaks away. Then the cycle repeats itself. My boat goes about 25 yards before it stops but it depends on how much air space is in the tank when you start. If you have one of the tank caps without an obvious air vent screw in the centre, try loosening the cap and if it then works sort out the cap or renew it.
The engine has a fuel pump that may be bad.
Another thought after reading your statement "runs like mad". When you start engine it should be with the choke pulled out. As soon as it starts, push the choke back in again, working the throttle at the same time. Engine will "run like mad" because choke supplies too much fuel to engine, eventually flooding it and making it stop. A fuel flooded engine will not restart until the excess fuel dissipates. Either wait 5 minutes or more and try restarting, but without any choke and without pumping primer bulb, or disconnect the fuel line and give 5 or more good pulls on the rope to pump out the excess fuel. It is also possible that the choke in/out knob is not doing it's job properly and engine is permanently choked. They can be wrongly fitted with 180 degree rotation and not operate the choke plate correctly. A quick visual check should let you know if it is a least moving the lever on the carburetor properly. From distant memory, the small flat cut in the side of the plastic arm should face inwards. A better way is to remove the air intake "muffler" and visually inspect the choke flapper. With choke knob out, the flap should be fully closed and when knob is in it should be fully open. There is an excellent website called leeroysramblings.com that tells you absolutely everything you will ever need to know about these motors.
FYI, that's leeroysramblings.com . A very helpful site.
She is!
She's my audience.
taking a carb off these old motors is cake. cleaning the carb is best done off the motor.
Sorry to bother, I'm going to try what you suggested here; So I have an evinrude 9.9. 4 stroke 1995 took It out, it seemed to run and start ok. but then full throttle wound bog down at top speed, it started to sputter and and even back fired, it would go 10 feet and shut off 10 feet and shut off full throttle would bog. it was making sounds and running like it had water in the carb. any suggestions? I'm going to try put a carb rebuild kit and see if that helps
Sputter and backfire is due to a lean fuel mixture. Blasting out the jets with carb cleaner will usually do the trick. Also try pulling the choke. It will sometimes loosen debris and clear out the jets.
Thanks for the quick reply, will do! One speck/grain of sand in the jets will cause that issue? Just picked of some compressed air in the can, I'll keep you posted!
It takes very little to mess with air/fuel ratio. Good luck!!
had same problem...my coil pack was loose.wasnt getting proper ground.
John Parkhurst
thanks for great vid. i'll try the seafoam heard it's great. Mine runs great in 55 gal drum (all day) take it out on lake it runs for about 20 mins then shuts down let it sit for 10 mins runs again for 20. I've fiddled w/ it. Any advice? it's 1963 sears 5 hs. I have the fastest grumman transomed on the lake(usually)
thanks again.
dadrules714 There is either a fuel blockage at the fuel pump (or a vacuum leak in the supply line), ot the tank needs to be vented. Squeeze the pressure bulb when the engine starts to die. It's also possible that the points are to wide and they warm up and don't make contact. Lastly, it could have a coil breaking down when it heats up. I have also seen head gaskets do this, but it would likely only get one cylinder.
NAC cater , I believe that the dog was disagreeing with the ( video ) - or - attempting to notify the ( neighborhood ) of a ( hazard ) event coming..!!!
She wants to play ball!!!
No.
I wish someone would show how to do a 1959 Johnson same thing except my jets are the opposite mine is completely screwed up!
Sadly, I don't have one.
I see yours is close to mine though, I'll get it fixed
Pretty much the same way as he is doing here,
Not much looks the same, I already did it, someone on iBoats showed me how thank you
What model is this motor?
1976 Sea King 5.5 horse. That makes it a Johnson/Evinrude
Sure Mac Sure.
where in mo is this?
+bettyboop65340 I sent you a message. Check your community/messages.
i would have just bought the gaskets and rebuilt the jets,,,its not that hard,,,i did my 50 yamaha,,,now im redoing the piston heads and rings ,,,My Boat Project
Watched! Very good!!
TY,Im going tomorrow and try to catch some shrimp with it..
i got a ? guy, i get a spark , there is a white spark, what color, do a spark on the plugg should be? blue, or bright white,
White or blue with a distinctive crack noise is strong. Yellow and quiet (or maybe you can't see it at all) is weak.
TheFishman88
johnson, got one like it.parts motor
Buy
what motor is this?
+Robert Beatty 5.5 hp Seaking (Johny/rude) 1976 I think.
+Robert Beatty it is probably around a 62-3. I have the same one.